Meats, Eats, Drinks & Leaves - Introduction

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Legendary heads: 1. Indian runner ducks, Hyden Farm Originals; 2. Mike Smales, farmer & cheesemaker, Lyburn Cheese; 3. Jody Scheckter, farmer & producer, Laverstoke Park Farm; 4. Ramon Farthing, head chef & proprietor, 36 on the Quay; 5. Gary Pearce, chef, 36 on the Quay; 6. Pierre Chevillard, head chef, Pebble Beech; 7. David Wykes, chef & proprietor, Verveine; 8. Rob Cox, farm manager, Dan Tanner’s Sopley Farm; 9. Wellington the sheep, The Wellington Arms; 10. Dan Maskell, chef & proprietor, Dan’s Kitchen; 11. Cocky rooster, Hyden Farm Originals; 12. James Golding, executive chef, The Pig; 13. George Blogg, chef, TerraVina*; 14. Gavin Barnes, head chef, TerraVina; 15. Luke Holder, head chef, Lime Wood; 16. Luke Matthews, executive head chef, Chewton Glen; 17. Jason King, chef & proprietor, The Wellington Arms; 18. Olly Rouse, head chef, Lainston House, an Exclusive Hotel; 19. Natasha Edwards, manager & cookery book author, The Garlic Farm & Restaurant; 20. Andrew MacKenzie, executive chef, Exclusive Chefs Academy; 21. Snuffling Hampshire Hog, New Forest; 22. Richard Jones, farmer, Hyden Farm Originals; 23. Alan Bartlett, butcher & sausage maker, T Bartlett & Sons; 24. Stuart Ayres, chef, The Chestnut Horse & The Globe; 25. Ben Cooke, head chef & owner, The Little Gloster; 26. Tanguy Martin, head sommelier, TerraVina; 27. Simon Page, proprietor & gardener, The Wellington Arms; 28. Andrew Johnson, fisherman & proprietor, Johnson’s Enterprises Ltd; 29. Neil Reid, butcher, The Farmer’s Butcher at Swallowfields Farm; 30. Jane Dick, proprietor, Fundamentally Fungus; 31. Sue Whiting, proprietor, Fundamentally Fungus; 32. Jaye Santiago, head chef, The Little Gloster; 33. Colin the very satisfied Jersey bull, Meadow Cottage Farm; 34. Vincent, happy dog & chief shepherd, The Wellington Arms; 35. John Fahey, The Island Bakers; 36. Spotty the Kune Kune at The Pig; 37. Chris Sole, butcher & proprietor, Blackmoor Game; 38. Fran Joyce, head chef, The Thomas Lord; 39. John Lightfoot, head chef, The Oak Inn**; 40. Mark Haynes, farmer & cowherd, Meadow Cottage Farm; 41. Brian Ahearn, head chef, The Rockingham Arms; 42. Neil Beckett, head chef, The Chestnut Horse & The Globe; 43. Jennifer Williams, Naked Jam; 44. Damian Brown, head chef & stakeholder, The Chesil Rectory; 45. James Durrant, head chef & proprietor, The Plough; 46. Charlie Bartlett, head chef, The Garlic Farm & Restaurant; 47. Will Dobson, orchard grower, juice maker & owner, Hill Farm Juice; 48. Henrietta, a free range chicken; 49. Princess the Jersey cow (one of Colin’s girlfriends), Meadow Cottage Farm; 50. Mike Curtis, fisherman & proprietor, Captain Stan’s Bembridge Fish Store; 51. Sustainable organic exotic mushrooms, Fundamentally Fungus; 52. James Golding’s ‘piggy brew’ at The Pig; 53. One of the morning’s catch, Johnson’s Enterprises Ltd; 54. Isle of Wight tomato, The Tomato Stall; 55. A bit of bread in the corner, The Island Bakers.

Just as this book went to print: *chef George Blogg left TerraVina and moved on to pastures new. We all wish him every success. **chef John Lightfoot at The Oak Inn was awarded a new post at Fuller’s newly re-furbished The White Buck in Burley.

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Meats, Eats, Drinks & Leaves around Hampshire & the Isle of Wight

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Acknowledgements

Published by Repertoire Food & Design Ltd www.meatseatsdrinksandleaves.com www.repertoire.co

ISBN: 978-0-9565771-3-9

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or in any form or by any means, without the prior permission in writing of the publisher, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent publisher. Every attempt has been made to contact the relevant copyright-holders, but some were unobtainable. We would be grateful if the appropriate people could contact us.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data: A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. © Repertoire Food & Design Ltd. Text Penny Ericson.

Design and photographs Simon Firullo Printed and bound in Turkey by Imak Ltd. Managed and manufactured by Jellyfish Print Solutions, Swanmore, Hampshire UK Stocks from sustainable sources

Other photo credits: The Chesil Rectory - p46-47 - photos are released with permission from Paul Pascoe@Red Snapper and Milli McGregor; Blackmoor Game - p56 - Simon Hawkins; The Little Gloster - p60-61 - main image and bottom left; p72-73 - all images The Island Bakers; Lainston House - p140 - second, third and fourth in left column; The Garlic Farm - p184 - second, third and fourth in left column; Chewton Glen - p245 - main image; Laverstoke Park Farm - p255 - bottom 3 - courtesy of Laverstoke Park Farm; The Thomas Lord, Hyden Farm Originals p187 - main image - Penny Ericson; The Tomato Stall - p336-337 - courtesy the Tomato Stall

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It’s been a real pleasure writing this book. As always there are so many people to thank, a few of whom, without them, this project would never have got off the ground. To Simon Firullo, my collaborator, the photography is stunning. You’ve made this a truly beautiful book. To Simon Hawkins, my husband, for his untiring hard work behind the scenes, especially for doing the things Simon F and I either don’t like to do or aren’t very good at. Thanks also go to Yvonne, Ben & Cole and the Gabors; Zsa Zsa & Eva. A million thanks to the chefs and proprietors for letting us into their kitchens and sharing their menus, recipes and food. And very special thanks for their generosity in helping me raise money for, Live Well 4 Longer.

Tanguy Martin, sommelier extraordinaire! I think the wine and tasting notes make the book complete. Thanks for being so generous with your expertise and time.

Peter Gentilli, thanks for your contribution on the wine and beer sections and Emma Caulton for yours on the Hampshire Larder section.

There are a few other people that deserve a very special thanks.

Samantha Dewey at Jellyfish Print Solutions, you’ve been an absolute star from day one. Jane Johnston, Cressida Robson and Juliet Alexander for editing and proof reading, any errors are mine alone. Tracy Nash, for your enthusiasm and boundless energy.

You helped me kick-off the project, gave me so much of your time and opened doors. Ben & Holly Cooke, thanks for your generous hospitality. For our readers, a stay at The Little Gloster’s B&B on the Isle of Wight is highly recommended.

Cookery books are complicated things. In addition, this book features 22 chefs and their establishments, as well as the food producers they work with. That’s a lot of stories to tell! I had a lot of help. In no particular order, thanks to: Ken Walker at Jellyfish, Antonio Lopez-Bustos and the team at Lainston House, Lindsey Steele, James Durrant, Andy MacKenzie, Joni Rhodes, Nina Basset, Victoria Townsend, Emma Cripwell, Lotti Eagles, Joy Peck, Derek Lowe, David Butcher, Andy Lazenby, Jen Hollick, Sarah Mills, Eleanor Dodd, Emma Tophill, Barbara Parry, Faye Payne, Colin Boswell, Mark & Penny Thornhill, Helen Fahy, Martin Sliva, Simon Page, Jane Dick and Sue Whiting, Janet Sole, Clare Winterbottom, Celia Haynes. The guys at TLR for testing recipes. Finally, a big thank-you to the chefs, kitchen and front of house teams at all the marvelous places featured in this book.

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Meats, Eats, Drinks & Leaves around Hampshire & the Isle of Wight

by Penny Ericson photographs by Simon Firullo foreword by Angela Hartnett

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Foreword

H

ampshire and the Isle of Wight are very special and it is no surprise that some of the UK’s top chefs have found sanctuary here and their very own Garden of Eden. The warm southern limits of our temperate climate ensure that here, where sea meets land, we have some of the most abundant and varied ingredients for a chef ’s table.

I was once told that the only food Hampshire doesn’t produce is crisps despite having potato growers in abundance. I’ve since learned that one of Britain’s hallmark crisp brands uses Hampshire potatoes!

A cookery book that captures the essence of this part of the country is long overdue. It’s a book that draws you into this fabulous part of England, where you can savour some of its sublime culinary experiences. This book does just that, it takes you on a voyage of discovery around some of Hampshire’s most creative restaurants, introducing you to inventive chefs and authentic local produce.

The provenance of the food we eat is becoming more and more important. ‘Field to fork’ is a familiar and increasingly important principle. I believe it’s here to stay.

Today we want certainty about where our food comes from. Menus highlight local produce, sometimes even narrowing it down to a 15-mile or even a 5-mile radius of the restaurant. For rural chefs, provenance means, ‘I serve this food because my neighbour produced it and my other neighbours produced the rest of the ingredients and their families have been doing this for centuries.’ It means the chefs have watched the ingredients grow and mature before their eyes and trust in their integrity.

Our chefs are even stepping out into the countryside themselves to become their own producers. Foraged ingredients are increasingly popular on rural menus and chefs are embracing the opportunity to cameo the textures and flavours they find on their doorstep.

Relying on local produce can be a challenge taking real confidence, creativity and ingenuity. The availability of produce is never fully assured or predictable and menus have to be adaptable to what’s available on the day. Often a well-planned dish might have to be postponed or scrapped altogether.

In 2012, when we opened Hartnett Holder & Co at Lime Wood in the New Forest, I found out first hand why the region draws so many top chefs.

Now Penny has persuaded more than twenty of the region’s top chefs to share the secrets of their signature dishes, and introduce you to their local producers and the unique environment in which they work.

Samuel Johnson wrote, ‘When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.’

I venture that had he been alive today he’d have said the same of Hampshire. I hope if you haven’t already visited the region, Penny’s book will encourage you.

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Contents Notes 10 Introduction 11 Luke Holder, Lime Wood 12 James Durrant, The Plough 32 Damian Brown, The Chesil Rectory 46 Ben Cooke & Jay Santiago, The Little Gloster 60 Jason King, The Wellington Arms 76 Gavin Barnes & George Blogg, TerraVina 92 Stuart Ayres & Neil Beckett, The Globe & The Chestnut Horse 108 David Wykes, Verveine 124 Olly Rouse, Lainston House, an Exclusive Hotel 146 Andrew MacKenzie, Exclusive Chefs Academy 160 Fran Joyce, The Thomas Lord 173 Natasha Edwards & Charlie Bartlett, The Garlic Farm & 190 Pierre Chevillard, Pebble Beach 206 John Lightfoot, The Oak Inn 220 Dan Maskell, Dan’s Kitchen 234

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Luke Matthews, Chewton Glen 250 Brian Ahearn, The Rockingham Arms 267 Ramon Farthing & Gary Pearce, 36 on the Quay 280 James Golding, The Pig 298 Tanguy’s taste 318 Hamphire’s larder 330 Hill Farm Juice 332 Naked Jam 334 The Tomato Stall 336 Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers 338 Hampshire Wine 340 Hampshire Beer 344 Garnishes & extras 348 Glossary 354 Conversion chart 358 Index 360

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Notes • The dishes presented here vary in complexity. Some are straightforward; some will challenge the accomplished amateur, while others simply cannot be achieved at home. These menus showcase how the chef ’s work, it’s a peek over their shoulders so to speak. Take inspiration from their knowledge and skill and when you dine at their tables, appreciate their devotion.

• Whilst the recipes have been tested in home kitchens, there are some that we simply couldn’t do. Olly Rouse’s, Lemon, basil chocolate & kiffir is a good example. There may be instances where a process seems unclear or is missing. For this, I apologise, and then I blame the chefs. They think in culinary shorthand and each has his or her jargon. If I’ve missed something, it might be that they didn’t tell me. (Extracting accurate recipes out of more than 20 chefs took some doing!)

the two styles is that many chefs use liquid pasteurised yolks. The measurements are accurate and they are safer from a health and safety perspective. If you are pregnant or in a vulnerable health group, avoid raw or partially cooked eggs.

• Salt is sea salt, unless specified (I use Maldon or Murray River Pink that I get from Jason & Simon at The Wellington Arms.) Pepper is freshly cracked black, unless specified.

• For cross-referencing weights & measures there is a full conversion chart at the back of the book.

• The recipe styles vary from chef to chef. I’ve done this intentionally. The measurements and quantities are harmonised and I’ve tried to be consistent but chefs simply don’t work that way. Some are precise to the extreme, while others are a bit more ‘freestyle.’

There are some rules that they all follow though.

For example, they all taste their food as they work, constantly balancing flavours and seasoning, hence you will see quite a few generic descriptions such as ‘a knob of butter’, which is about a tablespoon and ‘season to taste’, means salt and pepper unless otherwise specified.

Finally, if a temperature control calls for something out of the ordinary like 121°C, it’s not a typo, the chef meant it (and yes they do put cling film in ovens!)

• Oven temperatures are conventional ovens in °C. If you are using a fan-assisted oven, decrease the temperature by 15°C. Individual ovens can vary by as much as 10°C and possibly more when transferring from a commercial to domestic kitchen. Get to know your oven. The best gauge is a thermometer.

• Timings are given as a guideline and in most cases with a description of the finished article. I rely on you, the cook, to use your judgment.

• A word on eggs. Use large, free range and organic if there isn’t a specific instruction. Egg yolks are measured in 2 ways, by quantity (ie 3 yolks) and also in grams. 1 large free range yolk = 25 g on average. The reason for

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Introduction

I

’ve had the time of my life writing this book. It’s been an absolute privilege to meet and work with so many wonderful and talented people. This is their book, not mine.

Meats, Eats, Drinks & Leaves reflects the taste and skill of twenty-two of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight’s finest chefs. Their food is modern and traditional at the same time. All of them tell a story about how they interpret provenance and what using, and in many cases producing, local produce means to them. The dishes vary, some are elegantly simple, whilst others are just too difficult to replicate.

Great chefs don’t complicate things without good reason.

They get the very best out of every ingredient because they have skill, knowledge and imagination. I’ve given you their recipes as they’ve given them to me.

Many of these dishes can’t be perfectly replicated at home. For example, most people don’t have the time, patience, skill or equipment to spend two days making a wafer thin biscuit from a pig’s ear or making the equivalent of the inside of a chocolate aerobar. Why would we? That’s what these fabulous chefs are here for.

Dine in their restaurants!

It’s not just the chefs I wanted to celebrate, Hampshire & the Isle of Wight’s diversity is wondrous. The farmers, fishermen, butchers, bakers, brewers, vintners, gardeners, beekeepers, jam makers, candlestick makers et al are second to none. It’s been such an honour and education to meet them all and learn about what’s made them and their industries what they are today. The region is so diverse; I’ve really only just scratched the surface.

producers and professionals that serve the hospitality and food industry in the region. I feel another book coming on!

I hope you enjoy this book as much as I have creating it. Take inspiration from the beautiful concoctions the chefs have created, then go to their restaurants, sit back and enjoy the hospitality of the folks that welcome you in. The producers are also an essential ingredient to what makes enjoying food a great pleasure. Visit their farm shops and buy their lovingly crafted goods. I promise, you won’t be disappointed.

One last word, for the first edition of this book, all of the chefs and establishments have helped me raise much needed money for my fundraising campaign, Live Well 4 Longer, that has been set up to raise funds directly dedicated to buying desperately needed equipment in cancer wards and training for NHS medical professionals for the treatment and prevention of cancer. To all of them I am so very grateful. Thank-you.

I must apologise to those I have missed this time around.

There just wasn’t a book large enough to do justice to all the wonderful chefs, cooks, hotels, restaurants, food

Bon appetite!

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Penny Ericson’s new cookery book, Meats, Eats, Drinks & Leaves celebrates the diversity and excellence of food and produce in Hampshire and the Isle of Wight. It features a variety of establishments ranging from favourite pubs to some of the region’s most celebrated fine country hotels and eateries. It also features some of the region’s finest farmers, food producers, vintners and brewers.

Penny tells the story of how chefs of the region value the provenance of their food, what it means to support and develop local farmers and producers and how this has attracted them to Hampshire and the Isle of Wight.

Twenty-two chefs have contributed menus that feature their favoured local produce and often ways in which they themselves have taken responsibility for growing their own livestock, kitchen gardens and produce.

To accompany the beautifully photographed menus, Tanguy Martin, head sommelier of TerraVina has contributed intelligent and delightful wine matching and detailed tasting notes. Protégé of Gerard Basset, OBE, Tanguy was recently named the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs coveted Young Sommelier of the Year for 2014 and awarded a bronze medal at the Moët & Chandon Sommelier of the Year 2014. hello@meatseatsdrinksandleaves.com www.meatseatsdrinksandleaves.com Follow us on Twitter

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