Signature Style 3

signature style

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a word from the editors runway to martin’s way

men’s streetwear katherine wang: living the dream at opening ceremony model spotlight tattoos & piercings

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70’s boho the rise and fall of american apparel

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S3 26 caitlyn jenner: a new fashion icon 28 coats

29 30 edward foster 31 clothing isla: 32 behind the cover vintage vibes alumni highlight: cam gibbar

TABLE OF CONTENTS SS3 3

contributers ryan ong & hannah morse editors-in-chief

creative director danielle nelson editorial director samantha donohue layout directors julie lin & kaitlin dunne stylists cameron dunne, jean shim,

jon carkeek & maggie riordan beauty director rachael kane

photographers olivia fuller, cornelia smith, tina mangelova, sandy wu writers rachael alatalo, sindy chen, ali gay, anne homans, cassie howard, tracy jiao, dillon kelly, danielle nelson, gwyn sise, diana suder, ali zildjian models yassine dahlek, tulia day, saige devlin, petra elfstrom, jamie granskie, anne homans, henry johnstone, emily magruder, alexandria mavis medellin, isla ng, kureem nugent, angel pichardo, brad prevel, kelsie sausville, xenia tiajoloff, katherine wang, charlie wilson, jenna wilson founders taylor healy, emily malter, ryan ong

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letter from the editors When we started to create a guiding theme for this issue we were drawn to the relationship between contemporary and vintage style. We wanted to incorporate modern fashion into the playfulness of thrifted clothes. Our cover girl, Isla Ng ‘16, embodies this idea with the combination of her own vintage coat and a sleek Burberry scarf. With her unique style and work as an activist for women and queer people of color, Isla is the perfect poster girl for the current aesthetic of Signature Style. From Runway to Martin’s Way to our 70’s Boho photo spread, each and every article is a visualization of this connection of old and new.

Not only have we seen the appearance of this trend through our own shopping and styling habits on the hill, this issue also shows how the current state of the fashion the least expensive, fashions. The fashion landscape has evolved drastically over the past few years with the advent of instantaneous social media and constant connection.

With the rise of fast-fashion such as H&M and Zara and the presence of e-commerce, all retailers are trying to keep up with the even faster pace of the industry. We love the article on the controversial past and the unpredictable future of hyper-sexualized fashion line American Apparel.

Cam Gibbar ’13 gives us an inside look of his experience Additionally, Katherine Wang ’17 talks candidly to SS about her summer with Opening Ceremony as a production and best part!).

By the time this issue is published there will be one month left in 2015. We’ve had a blast putting together the third issue of Signature Style and identifying the voice of this publication as we move into our second year. We hope you enjoy reading SS3 as much as we have enjoyed working on it, and as always, we look forward to spotting new trends on Martin’s Way!

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photography by tina mangelova

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sleepwear Runway-inspired

sleepwear meets streetpatterned matching set, worn with monochromatic sneakers and a reversible bomber jacket for a pop of contrasting color.

Absolute comfort is the goal of this low-key look. jean shim ‘17 matching set: thrift store sneakers: adidas, $65 bomber jacket: alpha industries ma-1, $135 model: kelsie sausville

culottes

One way to wear culottes is with a cropped, slim jacket. This juxtaposes the wide-leg of the pants. cameron dunne ‘16

jacket: nasty gal, $88 jumpsuit: club monaco, $269 sandals: jeffrey campbell, $205 model: jamie gransky

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ensemble, brooches are making a strong entrance into the fall fashion scene of 2015.

brooches

maggie riordan ‘19

overalls: free people, $98 workman shirt: madewell, $88 brooch: vintage wellies: tj maxx, $40 model: saige devlin

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knitwear M enswear is moving

towards a looser body silhouette, especially on the top half of the body.

Although a chunky knit sweater under a parka may it will keep you warm and in style. Invest in a parka this winter and wear it with all of the sweaters you own. jon carkeek ‘17

parka: eastern mountain sports, $125 chunky knit cardigan: american eagle, $80 shirt: lee valley (ireland), $60 model: brad prevel

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men’s streetwear

men’s streetwear photography by cornelia smith models: yassine dahlek & kureem nugent

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shirt: topman jacket: zara

hat: thrifted jacket: windbreaker shirt: thrifted SS3 11

hat: thrifted jacket: buffalo denim shirt: topman jeans: levi’s 508 shoes: saucony jazz watch: timex

shirt: topman jeans: topman shoes: comme des garçons play

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KATHERINE WANG Living the Dream at Opening Ceremony NYC

photography by olivia fuller 14 SS3

ali gay

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t’s 6am on a July Monday morning in Bayridge, Brooklyn, and Katherine Wang ’17 is already lacing up her running shoes and hitting the pavement for her morning jog before grabbing some slices of apple dipped in peanut butter and heading

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in SoHo, which Wang mentions was convenient for picking up samples at local stores for design experimentation and continue working through lunch or bring

best it could possibly be, and established Sounds pretty ambitious for the average herself as one of the most capable college student’s summertime, right? interns at the company, though she was But that’s where Katherine “Candy” an Art and Economics double-major, led the fast-paced New York lifestyle as a Production and Design Intern for fashion label Opening Ceremony this past summer, whose style Wang describes as “street style…a little eccentric,

While Wang had numerous stories to tell me about her time at the label this past summer, perhaps the most exciting detail about her summer experience was her own design’s appearance in Spring/

“My best experience was that I was able Wang admits that the fashion world to design some of my own stuff and see can indeed be an intimidating one: “Working in the fashion business is very it being produced and approved by my “Everyone looks fabulous, and you meet all these models very frequently… alone people in general, can say that they sent one of their designs down the runway Despite the intensity and high expectations What’s the next step for Wang after such of her work this summer, there’s no a remarkable experience? When asked whether she is planning on returning to an intern working in two departments, Opening Ceremony, Wang answers, “I am Wang’s days on the job were replete with it really shocked them when I learned and In the mornings, she helped the Design Department with sketches on Adobe did ask me to come back at the end of my Illustrator and Photoshop, worked on graphic design tasks, and researched get a job offer with the c and swiped photos for design inspiration Afternoons included trekking around her serving creamy mocha lattes (her favorite beverage) at the Opus counters, “Because we’re in the city, a lot of the for the girl with the awesome Bart times we would have sample rooms or Simpson sweater and a look that she fabric places where we needed to go in Midtown…that would usually take Wang’s wardrobe and accomplishments

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Where are you from?

Pound Ridge, NY in Westchester.

What’s your current agency?

RED Model Management How were you discovered?

During the summer of 2013, before my sophomore year at Hamilton College, I was on a Metro North train with my girlfriend and her friend, eating a Magnolia cupcake that we had previously purchased at Grand Central, when this guy came up to me and asked if I was with an agency. When I said “no,” he emailed me for

may get a much different answer from female models in this regard because there is a weird culture of anorexia and withholding food from female models. It’s just a reality of the industry.

Why have you continued to model?

It’s a fun side job. I’ll do it until I get sick of it, but it’s not a priority.

I could be going to the city every weekend for jobs, and I still get casting emails, but it’s low on my list of priorities. Once I graduate, whether or not I will continue to model will depend on if it will affect a stable job. Most models hold a few jobs at the same time. Ideally, when I graduate college, I want to work in a more secure position.

replied with interest.

What has been your most memorable modeling experience so far?

Meeting Kanye West at his casting for his Fall/Winter ‘15 show was very exciting.

However, he didn’t select me to model because he didn’t want anyone taller than him in the show; I’m 6’1” and he’s 5’8”. Napoléon complex?

Do you think models are treated well in the industry?

Within the “new kid” tier, made up of those who have potential but haven’t really established themselves yet, the treatment isn’t bad or upsetting. But it’s less glamorous than you would envision. For example, during fashion week, everything is paid for by the agency, so you’ll most likely get the bottom-barrel, cheapest hotel room. I don’t have any trouble with the treatment, but some people get fed up with things like long waiting times for castings. For me, I just leave if I’m sitting around for more than half an hour. When I’m in the actual shoots, I’ve always had nice buffets with coffee and really good food. However, you

you remember having your photo taken?

In my earliest photograph, I am sitting on a rock with my brothers and sisters outside of a house that we would go to in the summer. I was probably less than a year old. It’s funny because I have a reputation among my family members for looking really horrible in photos.

I hate posing because it doesn’t come naturally to me. Every time my mom would take a picture I would always make a face.

She was pretty blown away when she found out I was modeling.

What comes to mind now when someone asks you to pose?

I think I’m someone who needs more direction in that sense. My

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clothes on me, took a couple of photos, and then they asked me to move around. I didn’t know what to do. Once photographers tell me what they want though, I’m pretty good at doing it.

Models are typically photographed, but we rarely hear them speak. For this feature, Signature Style interviewed two up-and-coming models about their beginnings and their opinions on the industry. Grace Cheng and Hamilton College’s own Luke Gernert ’16 are both models in their twenties who have succeeded in walking runways and posing for magazines, all while remaining in school. danielle nelson

Where are you from?

Los Angeles, California, but born and raised in Diamond Bar, a suburb of LA. What’s your current agency?

Wilhelmina Model Management How were you discovered?

Spectrum in California and was scouted by an agent. I then went to an event in Orlando, Florida for two days. On about the industry, and on the second day each girl walked for various scouts from about ten different agencies, including Fox Models International, IMG, Vision, and Ford. editorial shoot like? were taken at Far Rockaway Beach in New York City for a Fall/Winter collection during the summer. It was extremely hot and everyone, including myself, was sweating profusely. I even remember having to use baby power on my legs to get the leather jeans on! and wrapped up by 6pm; needless to say it was a long day.

How did you decide on your signature blonde hair?

I was shooting for a Wild Fox campaign and all of the models day, some of my best photographs came from that shoot, and as a result, I decided to go blonde because I realized that it helped me stand out.

Do you think models are treated well in the industry?

Sometimes we are treated really well, but it depends on the brand. For example, Nordstrom treats their models well, and they give us breaks and food for breakfast and lunch. However, crackers and expect us to work through the shoot without a break.

Why have you continued to model?

I keep modeling because I am striving for my dream job. I would love to walk for one of Chanel’s runway shows. You only need that one job to get you exposed to the right people and open up certain doors. It’s completely a mental thing.

You have to be strong and believe in yourself because you will get rejected a lot, which can be discouraging.

If you weren’t modeling, what would you be doing?

I currently attend USC Marshall School of Business. Modeling may not be something I do for the rest of my life. I plan to because I come from a family of entrepreneurs and business owners. having your photo taken? was little. I was the super tall and skinny girl. As a result, I was always told to model, but I was a tomboy back then and wasn’t into it. After being scouted, I thought that modeling was cool and glamorous and eventually I began to love it.

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Henry has tattoos covering his arms and extendes for tattoos, but he doesn’t mind people looking unexpected people start conversations about them. Henry gets each tattoo as he imagines it and half are music related, with Kanye and Nas making by a Miyazaki movie, is in a more discreet place on his hip.

Alex sees her tattoos as a gift of art from her friend and tattoo artlates to her home of San Antonio.

Medusa and Lilith, strong women from mythology, grace her upper arm. In terms of piercings, Alex began stretching her ears in high school, a common practice at Indigenous Aztec heritage and she also loves the way they look.

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photography by sandy wu

emily bonacum

Tattoos and piercings are a bold form of art and selfexpression. Henry Johnstone ’17 and Alex Medellin ’17 give us an inside look at their body art and the meaning behind each piece.

tattoos & peircings

hat - a bathing ape tank - better off dead jeans: h&m

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0’s boho

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photography by brennan smith

models: emily magruder, tulia day, & xenia tiajoloff

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shirt - forever 21 vest - cusp by neiman marcus pants - forever 21 boots - frye

jacket: anne klein boots: etienne aigner dress: lilka for anthropologie

top: zara

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tights: calvin klein shoes: dannexx necklace: thrifted

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diana suder & ali zildjian

the rise and fall of american apparel

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ounded in 1997 by Dov Charney, the aesthetic of American Apparel is simple: cotton, demure essentially, the basics. Their clothes are sleek, sophisticated, and polished, yet still relaxed, appealing to a wide range of tastes. What sets American Apparel apart from the crowd, however, is the quality of the clothing, the hipster appeal of its aesthetic, and of course, the philosophy of morality and raunchy sexuality tied up with the brand’s name.

In 2003, the company expanded rapidly due to a quick success. Its success could have easily been a function of Charney’s upstanding labor philosophy: He infused his passions for workers’ rights, manufacturing integrity, and environmental sustainability into his startup. As proudly advertised on the website, “garments are created by motivated and fairlypaid employees who don’t just

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American Apparel hopes to lead by example in their ethical approach to factory production and prove that exploitation isn’t the only path to success in the fashion industry, even when overshadowed by big name brands that exploit poverty and inhumane labor in sweatshops on a regular basis.

Despite its honest labor practices, the company has been the subject of bad press numerous times. Its unnecessarily sexualized marketing has been consistently criticized over the years. While people argued over whether the ads are sexist or empowering, softcore porn or excellent marketing, sex and American Apparel became nearly synonymous.

Charney himself has been accused of sexual harassment and assault by several of his former employees. Despite the controversy, the company The early success of the brand led the company to expand

rapidly and open dozens of stores in just a few years, borrowing many millions of dollars to do so. Even though the brand was wildly popular in its early years, American Apparel hasn’t made a and leaving the company $311 million in debt. American Apparel Schneider, declared a plan to repair the failing business, by changing management structure, reinventing the look of retail stores, and most visibly, ditching the sexually charged advertising. The goal is to make the brand more “positive, After the Great Recession, consumers quickly turned accessible fast fashion, less willing to pay American Apparel’s infamously high prices for basic clothing items. This is part of a

larger shift in teen and youngadult culture away from the subtly conforming look (represented by brands like Aeropostale, American declining) and toward more of a trendy, celebrity-emulating look, catered to by fast-fashion retailers such as H&M, Zara, Forever21, from the runway and copy them into affordable, accessible clothing items of questionable quality and production practices.

American Apparel’s downfall, although often reported on, is not unique. Fashion trends change quickly in the modern culture. Companies start, thrive, fail, and end, all within a few decades or less. Many clothing brands are losing money and closing down, just to be replaced by newer, shiner, more trendy and affordable brands, all of which will go through their own life cycle in the coming years.

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photography by cornelia smith models: petra elfstrom & angel pichardo

coats: club monaco

coats This

winter’s long coat trend features a versatile navy peacoat for men. This classic Club Monaco piece is a musthave because it goes perfectly with both a casual street look and a more formal style. For women this season, menswear-inspired coats are combined with a feminine twist. This Club Monaco Collection coat showcases its feminine side with its oatmeal color and a-line silhouette.

sindy chen

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caitlyn jenner a new fashion icon

You all remember it: the iconic moment when Caitlyn Jenner stepped into the light, revealing her true self on the cover of Vanity Fair. Dressed in a Marilyn Monroe-esque white bustier with her long brown hair falling in curls around her shoulders, she was the image of grace and as Caitlyn joined the ranks of the pioneer celebrities who came before her, including Laverne the cover of Vanity Fair, news about Caitlyn immediately grabbed the headlines of all major media. Jenner became one of the judges of the Miss USA Pageant, stars in her recent reality show “I Am Cait,” and encourages people to stand up and be themselves. Caitlyn Jenner uses In addition to her controversial yet epical history, Caitlyn’s style is just as outstanding. On the day that Vanity Fair cover came out, the fashion world gained a star, as Caitlyn’s look set the the dress she wore to accept the Arthur Ashe Courage Award at the 2015 ESPY ceremony on July 15th. Jenner’s stylist, Jen Rade, worked with Donatella Versace to create the perfect look - a gown with Beladora earrings, a diamond bracelet, heels and a clutch custom-made by Stuart her personal style with her previous body type as an athlete. Looking at her style in 2015 ESPY Awards, how can we continue to complain that our body types restrict us from looking fabulous?

However, as all fashionistas know, street style is almost as important, if not equally important,

lace dress, animal-print wrap dress, bodycon navy dress, leather wrap dress and classic little black dresses all match perfectly with NYC’s vibe. Caitlyn Jenner proves that the combination of dresses and high heels will never go out of style. Jenner also pulls off all-white looks on many occasions. In addition to her most famous white gown in ESPY awards, she effortlessly topped off Caitlyn teaches us that no matter what pronoun you use or how you look physically, you can always 28 SS3

tracy jiao & gwyn sise

photography by tina mangelova

model: jenna wilson

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model: anne homans

intage ibes

Anyone who has ever been thrifting knows that stylish vintage pieces can be the long winter months - by simply layering them with the rest of our winter clothes. The combinations are endless, ranging from midriff-displaying crop tops with oversized bomber jackets, to quilted, natural-toned halter tops and high-waisted jeans, to cut-off shorts with sheer tights and chunky boots, and the juxtaposition of both seasons and fashion eras keeps each anne homans

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rachel alatalo & cassie howard

alumni highlight:

cam gibbar

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an american eagle

Cam Gibbar ’13 grew up in Littleton, Colorado. At Hamilton, he studied History and Creative Writing and was a company, he decided to take it. One job offer and three years later, he is now a merchandiser in the Women’s Graphic advice for current Hamilton students.

Can you explain what a typical workday looks like for you?

It is kind of cliché but no two days are exactly the same.

Do you get to work with a lot of different people in the industry?

Yes, every team comes to a merchant when they have a question about a product. I work with people who manage the website as well as the visual merchants who set up the store.

What are your responsibilities as a merchandiser?

I track all the sales and report to my bosses and the cross-functional team.

On a weekly and seasonal basis, we see what is working and what is not working. We create longterm strategies for each season and then design based on those goals. each store, so we have to make sure that every square foot of the store is productive best costs as well as increase the marketing. I also make sure the clothes are made properly and then shipped on time.

What is your ultimate career goal?

At the moment I’m most interested in the way people shop and how that has been changing over the years. I just want to really feel like I have ownership in my business, whether that’s being one of the top

merchandisers at the company or pursuing the ultimate dream of owning my own brand. I have a little bit of that spark, but it’s kind of a pipe dream. You never know what will fall in your lap one day.

What advice would you give students interested in a career in the fashion industry?

I would emphasize and encourage that if people want to be involved in retail and aren’t designing, there are a ton of jobs that need to be design. I love being a merchant, and there are some jobs that are more numbers-driven that need people too. Reach out, use the Hamilton network, and use Linkedin–it’s a who work in whatever industry you’re looking for.

Hamilton doesn’t have a fashion or business Hamilton students interested in the fashion industry need to be aware of?

Start with networking and be assertive because these school’s job fair and write down the names of hundreds missing. Spread the good news about NESCAC schools and get your name out there. Don’t be afraid to cold call, alum.

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photography by brennan smith

edward foster clothing

shirt - edward foster clothing boots - timberlands jeans - levi’s 511 jacket - all saints

Edward Foster Clothing is a company that exclusively manufactures and sells button down shirts for the typical college guy. Duncan Cock Foster and Edward Ryan Walsh came up with this idea during their freshman year at Emory, hoping to create clothing

thread count and unique modern tailoring. From the company’s inception, Foster and Walsh have worked closely with manufacturers to ensure a quality product. dillon kelly model: charlie wilson

Although these shirts have a certain preppiness to them, it is very easy to include an Edward Foster shirt in a more edgy look. For example, by pairing an Edward Foster shirt with a wool jacket, black skinny jeans, a black bucket hat, and Chelsea boots, the shirt serves an entirely different purpose. Instead of a preppy look, you now have an edgier look that is still put together and a more rebellious, punk direction, but instead, the combination of items such as the jacket, boots, and shirt make the look much more simple and Clothing is not limited to a typical preppy look but can be utilized in diverse ways. visit edwardfosterclothing.com

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photography by olivia fuller and ryan ong

I S L A:

behind the the covercover behind By byHannah hannahMorse morse

behind th 32 SS3

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t’s 2 PM on a Saturday and I am

Ng’s Eells double, searching for the perfect pieces for her cover shoot. Hailing from Staten Island, Isla, a senior philosophy major, points out her favorite items as I pull out a Vivienne Tam embroidered camisole, a geometric button down, and a gorgeous tan coat. As we move onto shoes (and I spy the perfect pair of chelsea boots), Isla shares that she has the same birthday as model Cara Delevingne and loves watching BoJack and snap reference photos for the upcoming shoot, Isla and I chat about some of her interests and favorite things.

the cover

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What are you involved in on campus?

I spend most of my time doing activist work through the Feminists of Color Collective. Our organization was originally created as a space for women and queer people of color who felt that they didn’t have a voice in existing activist groups at Hamilton. So we’re principally concerned with promoting intersectional perspectives, as well as creating opportunities for creative, identity-based expression through art and poetry.

What did you spend your past summer doing?

Working on the American Prison Writing Archive. I read and processed essays written by incarcerated people in the US.

Favorite item in your closet?

My full-length 80’s vintage faux fur coat.

My grandmother gave it to my mother who never wore it because she thought it was gaudy. I happily took it off her hands.

Most of my interesting items are second hand. I love thrifting, especially when I travel. Thrifting in NYC is split between overly expensive consignment stores and cheaper places where it’s hard to find interesting or vintage items.

Thrifting is a lot better in Boston and Philadelphia in my experience. Also, Etsy.

Favorite models?

Kiko Mizuhara, Winnie Harlow, Aya Jones, Mona Matsuoka , Buhmika Arora, Damaris Goddrie , Xiao Wen Ju

What’s one song you would listen to for the rest of your life?

Thinking of only listening to one song stresses me out so I’ll have to go with Sister Ray by the Velvet Underground.

It’s 17 minutes long so I could break it up into several sections and spread them out over the years.

Current trend you’re loving?

Lips or eyes (makeup wise)?

Bold lips without eye make up >>>>

Crop tops, because they’re a declaration of confidence and self-love. No one looks bad in a crop top.

Dream brands?

New York or London?

Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Versace, Vivienne Tam

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Shopping tips for finding cool, unique items?

New York

signature style, bi

tches

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