Signature Style 14

SIGNATURE STYLE xiv

COVER: photographer: Jack Grossi model: Krithika Ravishankar styled by: Aisling Mockler

14

table of contents 3 contributors 4

letter from the editors

5 - 8

sixties

9 - 12

snow day

13 - 16

fashion industry

17 - 20

child’s play

21 - 22

creator highlight: bella moses

23 - 24

Y2K revisited

25 - 28

student highlight: sam besca

31 - 34

gender x fashion

contributors Elle McCusker and Lynn Kim Co Editors-in-Chief Tiffany Lopes, Managing Editor Sophie Boorstin, Editorial Director Brenne Hoeven, Photography Director Grace Halligan, Layout Director Piper Williams & Anna Sakamoto, Head Stylists Vera Wang, Publicity Director Photographers Jack Grossi, Rachel O’Brien, Taicheng Jin, Kaitlyn Fudge, Katie Jenkinson Stylists Aisling Mockler, Zoe Carovano, Jordan Che, Lydia Gross, Alex Walen, Andrew Charman, Maeve Zimmerman, Louisa Croizer, Surya Gowda, Nat Reboredo, Danie Edwards, Peter Hueleatt, Emmy Goodwin, Maggie Nye Writers Caroline Boyd, Danie Edwards, Laura Jeffries, Katherine Kim, Eric Miller, Laura Radulescu, Julia Radomisli, Bella Moses, Lily Williams, Phoebe Leonard Copy Editors Julia Radomisli, Eda Keni, Katherine Kim, Lily Williams, Bella Moses, Laura Radulescu Layout Team Courtney Connerly, Isabelle Crownhart, Andrea Hayman, Maeve Luparello, Erin Tannenbaum, Piper Williams Models Krithika Ravishankar, Lily Williams, Jason Le, Juliet Davidson, Eric Jamous, Teddy Simson, Avani Pugazhendhi, SJ Bennett, Nicole Ramirez, Rose Corcoran, Brendan Knapp, Quincy Williams, Danie Edwards, Rachel Lu, Joe Largo, Olivia Chandler, Aurora Cai, Ronan Kudzin, Jeremy Bennett Brown, Kat Tsaryova, Sam Besca

3

It is 2021, and much has changed in the world since our fall issue.

Close to two million COVID-19 vaccine doses have been administered in the United States, and it finally feels like there is an end in sight for this pandemic. Yet there is still so much that remains the same. Anti-Asian hate crimes increased 150 percent within the last year. Black Americans continue to be the victims of hate crimes more than any other ethnicity.

In the midst of what seems to be constant turmoil, it is often difficult to feel optimistic. With this issue, we wanted to create something with a sense of joy and celebration – we imagined an ideal snow day, immersed ourselves in nostalgic color and whimsy, and dipped into an iconic era of style. But we also wanted to explore some more layered topics in fashion, ideas that challenge the industry and art form. In this issue, we revisit our fall Y2K spread, which neglected to consider the origins and historical context of 2000’s style that are rooted in the Black community.

The revisited Y2K article highlights and celebrates how Black culture was central in shaping the 2000s era of style that has seen a resurgence through media and spaces like TikTok. As editors and as a publication, we aim to be thoughtful, critical, and thorough in our work, and this was a learning moment for us. Our final spread represents a celebration of all gender identities through exploring the intersections of gender and fashion. Our intention for this spread, ultimately, is to lift up transgender, nonbinary, and gender-fluid individuals (whether or not they express gender identity through fashion) and to celebrate fashion for all.

Thank you for giving us the space to explore, think, and create. Thank you to our Signature Style editorial board, our general board, and you, our readers. Whatever this next year looks like, we hope you are able to carry a bit of joy, play, and celebration with you.

Signing off,

Lynn Kim & Elle McCusker

letter from the editors

4

5

sixties sixties sixties sixties sixties

6

...

Similar to how history repeats itself, fashion trends often reappear with time.

From miniskirts and pastel colors to fun prints and colored tights, the sixties are back and better than ever. Publications like Harper’s Bazaar describe the 1960s as a decade “known for breaking fashion norms and traditions” and so far, fashion in the 2020s features trends inspired by this iconic time.

During the second-wave feminist movement that began in the 60s, style icons represented female liberation by opting for shorter skirt hemlines. Mary Quant, a designer that embraced youth styles, popularized this trend at the time. Today, miniskirts continue to reappear on runways and all over the fashion world. Designers like Miu Miu, Attico, and LaQuan Smith all featured this garment in their Spring/Summer ‘21 collections. Additionally, influencers like Anne Lauremais, Imani Randolph, and Yoyo Kulala have all posted their take on the recurring trend. The prevalence of miniskirts in the fashion world ensures that this 60s staple lives on.

Of course, 60s fashion would be nothing without Twiggy, the English model, and the definition of mod. Today’s designers continue to use Twiggy as inspiration. On the same runway that models wore bright miniskirts, Miu Miu also debuted a series of baby-doll shift dresses, a style popularized in the 60s by mod icons. The color of these pieces is just as important as their flowy shape. Get ready to see your Instagram explore page popping with pastel greens, pinks, and yellows just in time for summer.

Although Quant, Twiggy, and Starr pioneered some of the decade’s most popular trends, the Black Panther Party, founded in 1966, popularized an iconic 60s staple, the black turtleneck, while promoting social awareness and racial equality. The Black Panther Party called for a revolution against euro-centric beauty standards and fashion trends. They served to catalyze Black empowerment and liberation, through fashion and other cultural landscapes, during this decade and beyond. Fashion in the 1960s incorporated the changing social environment into its revolutionary garment cuts, patterns, and color choices.

Additionally, these returning 60s trends emerge from all genders. The Beatles drummer, Ringo Starr, epitomized a unique and personal style that anyone and everyone can turn to for inspiration. Starr stood out among his bandmates as someone with an exceptionally psychedelic style. The fashion world continues to acknowledge Starr as a style icon and this season is no exception. Don’t be surprised if you see someone in a white denim jacket layered over a paisley button-down paired with striped pants and penny loafers walking down the runway this season. Starr helped establish emblematic trends during the 60s that the fashion industry continues to bring back to this day.

Moving forward, today’s fashion industry can continue to learn from this decade’s ability to portray individuality through our choice of dress.

...

7

Written by: Danie Edwards Stylists: Aisling Mockler, Zoe Carovano, Jordan Che, Lydia Gross, Peter Huleatt, Alex Walen Photographers: Jack Grossi, Rachel O’Brien Models: Krithika Ravishankar, Lily Williams, Jason Le, Juliet Davidson, Eric Jamous Layout: Andrea Hayman

8

WRITTEN BY LAURA RADULESCU

9

Stylists: Andrew Charman, Maeve Zimmerman, Louisa Croizer, Surya Gowda Photographer: Taicheng Jin Models: Teddy Simson, Avani Pugazhendhi, SJ Bennett, Nicole Ramirez Layout: Isabel Crownhart

Simultaneously dealing with the COVID-19 pandemic and less than optimal winter weather has led people to look for safe and creative alternatives for spending time with their friends and families. With public health guidelines advising against indoor gatherings, what better way is there to safely have fun than embracing the great outdoors on a beautiful snow day? Living in Clinton, we all know that bundling up in sub-zero temperatures is vital. Luckily, we have mastered the art of staying warm and looking stylish, so now is the perfect time to give you a rundown of our favorite snow day essentials.

10

A warm winter coat is arguably the most important article of clothing for a successful snow day outing. However, finding the perfect jacket can be tricky with so many options to choose from. Aritzia's Super Puff jacket has become a fan favorite among many Hamilton students. The jacket is filled with goose down, designed to deliver warmth up to -22℉ and features a removable hood. With a wide array of colors, lengths, and finishes - as well as both men’s and women’s styles — Artizia has a Super Puff for everyone. The North Face’s 1996 Retro Nuptse jacket has become another popular alternative to the Super Puff. The Retro Nuptse is waterrepellant and wind-resistant, with zippered pockets for keeping your hands warm and your belongings safe. This jacket features a color block pattern that makes a bold statement and exudes a classic vintage feel. As far as goose-down puffer jackets go, you really can’t go wrong with either of these options.

11

Keeping your feet warm and dry becomes a priority when spending time in the snow, and a fashionable pair of Chelsea boots can truly elevate your average snow day outfit. Among the most popular winter boots are Blundstone’s Originals: a classic Chelsea boot made from water-resistant leather. Blundstones come in several neutral hues and are designed in both men’s and women’s styles and sizes. In addition to Blundstone, Dr. Martens are also a fan favorite among many, including the Alyson Wintergrip Zip Chelsea Boot and the Lenore Faux Fur Lined Chelsea Boot. Both of these models feature visible stitching for style and a faux fur interior for extra warmth; deep grooves on their soles also make Docs an excellent choice for slippery terrain here on the hill. Chelsea boots are a classic winter wardrobe stable.

No snow day outfit is complete without the perfect beanie. One of Hamilton’s favorite beanies this season has been Carhartt’s Acrylic Watch Hat. Thick acrylic yarn and a fold-up cuff keep your ears warm while showcasing the iconic Carhartt logo. The Watch Hat is a timeless classic that comes in various colors and really never goes out of style. Pom-pom beanies can also be a great option. Many brands feature cable-knit beanies with fluffy pom poms in their collections this fall. With endless styles and patterns to choose from, finding the right hat has never been easier.

As snow day extravaganzas take over our social calendars, putting together the perfect winter outfit has become more relevant than ever before. These snow day essentials will keep you cozy and chic the next time you hit the nordic ski course or build a snowman outside your dorm. Stay warm out there.

12

the fashion industry: the fashion industry: alumni takeaways alumni takeaways written by laura jefferies and julia radomisli layout by piper williams

13

on on

sarah sarah hand hand

Currently a Senior Vice President at Tommy Hilfger, Sarah Hand, a 1991 Hamilton alumna, confessed that her education at Hamilton was crucial in her journey to this impressive position. Sarah emphasized that the college’s focus on communication, research, and interpretation skills helped her navigate her path through the fashion industry. Something that she only learned on this path, however, was the importance of an open-minded attitude in fashion.

Through meetings with merchants or production executives, for example, Sarah learned to approach discussions with consideration, ultimately looking to understand where people are coming from and what they need to produce productive results.

While working on her senior project at Hamilton, Sarah looked into textile programs to prepare for her life post-grad, and soon found a suitable one at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. She loved that this program, with its leniency in subject choices, allowed her to study both menswear and textiles, which eventually led her to focus on fashion design with a textile base. According to Sarah, studying at Hamilton gave her an advantage, as her time on the hill already allowed her to complete all of FIT’s required courses, which then gave her the ability to take many more exploratory classes at FIT. While attending night courses at FIT, Sarah worked during the day designing fabrics at a small firm, allowing her to gain even more experience in the field.

Something she didn’t expect, but was also not too surprised by while transitioning from Hamilton to FIT, was a different support system. Hamilton boasts an extended support system that emphasizes getting a well-rounded education, while FIT, Sarah realized, focused more on students pursuing their niche academic track. To Sarah, this change in guidance and atmosphere served as a stepping stone between college and her attempts to pursue a career in the fashion industry.

Sarah advises Hamilton students interested in fashion to find an out-of-the-box method to get into the industry, as the industry prioritizes uniqueness and innovation. “When I worked in the McKinsey group and we did this whole analysis of our process, it was super exciting, but that wasn’t exactly in the fashion industry. The process was a different way to look at

fashion, and it just proved to me that things that support and go around the fashion industry, I think, are equally, if not more, exciting than the actual fashion industry itself,” Sarah explains.

Moving into a discussion about fast fashion, Sarah thinks sustainability and “being able to be closer to market in some way for your business is really important.” Her current workplace, Tommy Hilfiger, is planning its own route towards sustainability.

According to Sarah, Tommy Hilfiger has come up with a quicker turn-around of product movement from the runway to stores. She also mentioned that within two weeks, she will be finishing the designs for the Spring 2022 collection that follow this sustainability route laid out by the brand. If all goes well, Tommy Hilfiger plans to be completely sustainable by 2025, which would please both its customers and the industry, as for the past three years, sustainable fashion has been the topic “on the tip of everyone’s tongues and our north star,” in Sarah’s words.

The relationship between technology and sustainability is something Tommy Hilfiger is focusing on to reach their environmental goals. For example, their designers are being trained in 3-D printing.

This is huge for the company because it means there is less sample making and prototyping, and they are presenting lines to retailers online, meaning that fewer people are flying. Tommy Hilfiger is also looking into more sustainable fabrications and models. They make sure to only use factories with equitable initiatives, meaning ethical factories that follow sustainable models.

Sustainability is extremely important to Sarah. She loves the outdoors and mentions her summer experience with NOLS after graduating from Hamilton. This trip taught her that having a little less but being able to do a lot more with the natural functionality of clothes is really important.

Relating her dedication to sustainability and working at Tommy Hilfiger, Sarah has been pushing for the use of primaloft insulation. This is a filling for jackets that is made from recycled bottles and strives to reduce plastic pollution in oceans. Sarah believes that on both individual and large-scale levels, movement towards sustainability is necessary to protect the environment and move the fashion industry forward as a whole.

14

yan ong ryan ong ryan ong ryan ong ryan ong ryan ong ryan o

“As long as you’re willing to talk about what you’re interested in, and what you’re passionate about, I think people are willing to help, and that’s what’s very unique about Hamilton’s career environments,”

“find an out-of-the-box method to get into the industry, as [it] prioritizes uniqueness and innovation”

arah Hand Sarah HAnd Sarah Hand SARAh HAND SARAH Hand

15

on on

Ry Ryan an ong ong

Ryan Ong, a 2016 alumnus and the founder of Signature Style, currently works in New York City as the Omni Associate Buyer for Men’s Shoes at Bloomingdale’s. In his third year at Hamilton, Ryan founded this magazine as a way to offer Hamilton students an outlet for fashion and style. As Vice President of Student Assembly during his time at Hamilton, he saw that there were so many great magazines on campus, but somewhat of a gap when it came to fashion and photography. He knew lots of fashionable people, and after asking around, he eventually found a group willing to help him create the magazine you are reading today.

With the support and guidance of the Student Activities Center and his friends from other publications, Ryan created a style-centered community full of passion and excitement. Though he was challenged by the amount of managing and scheduling needed for the magazine, he enjoyed working with friends and peers who were genuinely invested in the potential of Signature Style. He described this community as both close-knit and creative in and out of production. His favorite shoot for the magazine was on the window ledge of his own Milbank suite, when he and his suitemates changed the living room into a photoshoot studio with makeup artists and stylists.

The fashion industry first sparked Ryan’s interest as a child, when he picked out Limited Too outfits for his sisters. Years later, he began to seriously invest in this interest by reaching out to alumni, friends, and families of friends. According to Ryan, Hamilton helped him develop both “hard” and “soft” skills through the curriculum’s emphasis on communication and interpersonal skills, which he used to build relationships with small, well-connected groups of people. Eventually, Ryan enjoyed his first serious experience with the industry by working as an assistant stylist in his study abroad trip in London, where he created mood boards and coordinated samples for head stylists’ selections on shoots for Vogue, Porter, and David Beckham. Later, during his junior year summer, he landed a merchandise planning internship at Tory Burch, a position which, according to him, only happened by constantly asking questions and demonstrating interest. “As long as you’re willing to talk about what you’re interested in, and what you’re passionate about, I think people are willing to help, and that’s what’s very unique about Hamilton’s career environments,” he said.

Transitioning from Hamilton, Ryan says he didn’t expect how fast paced the fashion industry would really be. He describes both the creative and retail-oriented aspects as exciting and constantly changing, especially in the age of e-commerce, though he also noted the immense amount of pressure and competition in the industry as well. However, Ryan reassures people who are interested in fashion that passionate and hardworking individuals do get recognized for their efforts.

Ryan advises these people to seek out fashion professionals through the Career Center, alumni, and current students. “There are a lot of big personalities in fashion, and you need to stand up for yourself and be confident in what you think. There will always be another opinion in fashion, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that your opinion will be right or wrong. It just means that there’s another perspective—fashion is subjective, which also makes it very exciting.”

In terms of fast fashion, Ryan sees that it has changed the industry in both good and bad ways. While fast fashion allows people to purchase goods at an affordable price and express themselves through their clothing choices, it also causes an unthinkable amount of environmental waste. He shared that Bloomingdale’s, though not a fast fashion brand, competes against many other fast fashion brands, and affirmed that the quality of Bloomingdale’s (and other non-fast fashion retailers) make the price worth it—to him, fast fashion can “replicate, but never replace” the iconic retail names. With the work and detail that designers put in, in addition to the helpful customer service at non-fast fashion brands, it is clear why certain items cost so much more, beyond just product quality. Bloomingdale’s has taken steps towards becoming more sustainable, through its Sustainable Employee Resource Group that, as Ryan phrased it, “make[s them] more sustainable at a consumer level, but also at an employee level within our workforce.” According to Ryan, Bloomingdale’s also had a curated-pop-up shop focused on sustainability last spring. In terms of brands that Bloomingdale’s does business with, the company invests in a significant amount of sustainability initiatives presented at seasonal markets.

However, Ryan sees that the fashion industry as a whole should take more steps toward a more sustainable direction, such as donating out-of-season clothes to charities or recycling their material. “I think that there needs to be a larger conversation about it with all segments of the industry. It’s a huge problem, and I think that it’s just hard given the current [pandemic] situation that we’re in.”

16

CHILD S

17

Models: Rose Corcoran, Brendan Knapp, Quincy Williams, Danie Edwards and Rachel Lu Stylists: Louisa Crozier, Andrew Charman, Nat Reboredo, Emmy Goodwin and Maggie Nye Layout: Erin Tannenbaum Written By: Bella Moses Photographers: Kaitlyn Fudge, Katie Jenkinson

Play 18

Just a few years ago, the words clean, chic, and elegant were associated with the height of fashion. Everyone, from the Hollywood elite to social media icons, were calling for clean lines and simplicity. “Less is more” seemed to be the foundational rule for anyone and everyone who wanted to impress the fashion elite. Turn on the TV, open Instagram, or crack open a fashion magazine today, however, and you’re sure to be bombarded with color, print, and shapes that couldn’t be farther from the black and white standard of the 2010s. It feels as if our inner child is coming out to play and we couldn’t be more excited.

Anyone who watched the March 14th Grammy’s or opened their phone the next day, was bombarded with photos of Taylor Swift, who walked down the red carpet in a short, dreamy dress absolutely covered in 3D flowers. Megan the Stallion took home her award for Best New Artist in a neon orange ball gown, and Harry Styles spent the night decked out in various brightly colored feather boas. Bold statements, eclectic prints, and flashy colors are back and better than ever.

19

In 2021, more is more. For decades, those in positions of power have used preconceived notions of high-class elegance to exclude those who experimented with newer and more out of the box forms of expression through fashion. Boring, name-label gowns and tuxedos were glorified as the pinnacle of fashion, while the lively clothing of Black youth, drag queens, and LGBTQ+ artists was often dismissed. All of this goes to show that fashion has never existed in a bubble and what we wear has always been a reflection of cultural values and aspirations. But clothes can also be a powerful tool of hope and creative power.

If the past year has taught us anything, it’s that it is time for change. It’s time to forget about labels and embrace fashion for what it is, an artform of play and self-expression. Think back to the good old days when you would beg your parents to let you wear your plaid pajamas, your favorite tutu, or your decaying Sharkboy halloween costume to school just one more time. Bring out your inner child and opt for color, clash your prints, and get crafty. Fashion is for everyone and everyone deserves to be a wild child sometimes. As the sun continues to come out this Spring, and as we begin to hope for a more normal future, let’s all be true to our fun and childish selves and wear the funky, bright clothes that characterized the fashion of our adolescence.

20

Bel l a s e o M s @themessyhooker

Written by: Lily Williams Layout: Maeve Luparello Models: Brendan Knapp, Bella Moses

21

Signature Style was lucky enough to sit down with Bella Moses, whose handmade clothing was featured in this edition’s Child’s Play article. Bella, who is also known under the artistic pseudonym “the Messy Hooker,” crochets colorful custom clothing. Bella first began crocheting during quarantine last spring and has not stopped since.

She quickly realized that she loved creating original, handmade items for the people in her life. Since she began, her stock of funky, fruit shaped hats has evolved to include a variety of other clothing items, from accessories to shirts. Bella’s hats and other crochet items feature a modern spin on 1960s inspired style. Also, Bella noted that she prefers to use her own patterns instead of more rigid pre-made patterns. The Messy Hooker has turned her quarantine hobby into a fun and fulfilling small business, and encourages other people to start crafting right alongside her!

Bella’s beautiful crochet pieces can be found on: Depop @mothbodied Etsy @messyhooker Instagram @themessyhooker

22

Y2K revisited

written by Caroline Boyd & Phoebe Leonard layout by grace halligan

23

Revivals of style from past generations are practically guaranteed each season. Today, the Y2K style, which stands for “year 2000,” has proven to be extremely popular. The style was first popularized in the 1990s and remained trendy throughout the early 2000s. Now Y2K styles, including shades of light pink and purple, tighter fitting clothes, low-waisted everything, fun bling, select designer pieces, and statement accessories like butterfly hair clips or saddle bags, are back in full force.

Though celebrities like Paris Hilton, Nicole Richie, and Britney Spears are often praised as deities of Y2K style, Y2K fashion first gained popularity and traction within the Black community. Musicians like Beyonce and the girl group TLC were some of the first to wear the styles we now know as Y2K, including flashy metallics, halter crop-tops, and low rise jeans. Many other classic Y2K styles, like the iconic velour tracksuit and nameplate necklaces, have deep roots in the Black community. Before Paris Hilton and Juicy Couture took the world by storm, the Black-owned company Baby Phat was outfittings stars like Missy Elliot and Lil Mama in brightly colored, velour tracksuits of their own. Additionally, gold nameplate necklaces came into style during the growing hip-hop scene of the 1980’s and were popularized in large part by Black and Latina women.

In the popular late 90s-early 2000s TV show, Sex and The City, the main character often wore a gold nameplate necklace which the stylist of the show referred to as a “ghetto gold nameplate necklace.” Stars and stylists like this gained fashion clout by co-opting Black style, even as they were simultaneously demeaning it as “ghetto.” Shows like Sex and The City inspired viewers to purchase white-washed versions of Black fashion staples without understanding the rich history or cultural context of the style, and without acknowledging the Black creators who popularized it in the first place. And of course, this is just one example of appropriation of Black style in the media. It is now seemingly commonplace for tv shows, movies, Instagramers, and TikTok stars to co-opt and profit from fashion trends with origins in the Black community. Oftentimes white celebrities are praised for wearing clothes that caused Black celebrities to make the “Worst Dressed” lists in the 2000s. Clothes that were once un-stylish when worn by Black women are a prominent part of mainstream fashion and proper credit has not been given to the women who pioneered these looks. It is absolutely vital that the history of the development of the iconic Y2K styles are not only shared, but are celebrated. Silencing these stories contributes to the white-washing of the fashion world and erases any credit towards the Black creatives who took fashion risks in the early 2000s that we still draw inspiration from to this day.

24

SAM BESCA

25

My first interaction with Sam Besca was not through Zoom; it was passing her on Martin’s Way thirty minutes before our interview. Wearing a black wool crop top, pale high waisted pants, and a pair of striking ankle boots, Sam strode briskly past me on her way to the library. Little did I know in that moment that I would grow even more impressed with the outfit once Sam started talking.

“I made the crop top myself!” she exclaimed. “It’s one of the many things I’ve made over the past few months, and it’s been a long learning process for me to make good pieces like this one.

Trust me, you don’t want to see what I made when I first started out.” Sam explained that she had not considered taking up sewing until the past year. Using internet tutorials from Nava Rose, Cindy Lou, and Withwendy, she taught herself how to sew over the past few months during quarantine.

Sam said, “If sewing was a formal process that I had to learn, I wouldn’t have done it.

Without someone evaluating me, it was much easier to make the clothes that I really wanted. It was difficult at first, but I forced myself not to get too attached to every product I made, and that helped a lot.”

Sam’s sewing skills are not limited to making her dream wardrobe. They’ve, in fact, led her to start her own brand on Instagram, Very Cool Goods, which showcases clothes that she either upcycled, sewed, or embroidered herself. “It all started from embroidery,” Sam emphasized. “To practice needlework, I embroidered some clothes that I had and posted them on my Insta stories, which made my friends want me to embroider their stuff too. Word got around, and I quickly got flooded with orders and requests. The demand was so high that I once spent at least ten hours embroidering every day!”

26

To manage the orders and to sell more products, like upcycled and thrifted clothing, Sam created Very Cool Goods, and donated all her profits to Justice for Black Girls. After she quit her job to dedicate her entire energy to Very Cool Goods, Sam gradually diminished the donation percentage to 50%. “When it gets to summer and I have more time and income on my hands, I hope to bring that percentage back up,” she said. “But right now, I’m just trying to balance my schoolwork and financial obligations.”

With the creation of Very Cool Goods, Sam made it clear that sewing was more than a simple hobby, the same way style and fashion to her are more than frivolous subjects. In her words, both allow her to truly express her identity and personality.

“But it’s not just that way for me. I’ve seen people in Manhattan and Paris express their identities through so many different styles, and it’s honestly pretty incredible to see the variety of personalities and characters. And it’s also a ton of fun, since you can go out and present whatever looks you want, whether it’s bold or subtle. I’ve never bought into the idea of not wearing something incredible unless a formal event happens. When I want to wear things, I wear them, and only I get the final say in that.”

27

Indeed, Sam’s personal wardrobe is just as all-encompassing as her style philosophy. Among her favorite items are oversized winter coats, corsets, and well-tailored Levi’s jeans, some of which she currently sells on Very Cool Goods. Sam plans to upcycle jeans for her brand using Hannah Lee Cougan’s tutorials once she has more time.

“As for corsets, I use DIY corset patterns from Nava Rose’s tutorials. My first one had no boning and was tiny, to the point where it barely fit me, because Nava’s a lot slimmer than I am.”

Sam laughingly said. “But the mistakes I made in that process made me learn a lot more about accurately making a corset. It’s all about patience and practice; getting better at sewing doesn’t happen overnight.”

This admirable diligence to sewing has definitely rewarded Sam with success and the interest of many customers, all of which she would have never dreamed of just a year ago. As Sam continues on her sewing journey, there is little doubt that Very Cool Goods will reach even bigger opportunities and soar to greater heights. Be sure to check Sam out on Instagram, @verycoolgoods.

Written by: Katherine Kim Stylists: Anna Sakamoto, Piper Williams Photographer: Taicheng Jin Layout: Courtney Connerly

28

GENDER X

29

FASHION

30

T

he December 2020 issue of Vogue featured Harry Styles on the cover of the magazine donning a Gucci dress. This immediately stirred up criticism, particularly among conservative networks that complained complained that this was part of some kind of conspiracy directed at feminizing western men. There was also well-founded criticism that Styles’ cover shoot was potentially being treated as more revolutionary than it should be. After all, he’s still an absurdly successful, attractive pop superstar covering ground that’s already been paved by numerous celebrities. Are we forgetting the fact that Kurt Cobain wore dresses, or how Dennis Rodman routinely broke down gender norms in a sport that is dominated and even defined by traditional masculinityw? Young Thug has been wearing women’s clothing for years, even appearing on the cover of his 2016 album Jeffery sporting a frilly dress not unlike the one Harry Styles was seen in (of course, Thug later explained that the dress was a necessity to hide the AK-47 that he was carrying on him, but the point stands). The fact that it takes a cis white male doing something that’s already been done by so many, especially people of color, to be celebrated as brave and groundbreaking speaks to how much work must still be done in not only dismantling the gender binary, but also systemic racial bias in media.

I reached out to Jeremy Bennett Brown, a model in this photoshoot, to hear about his thoughts on the relationship between gender and fashion. “Androgynous fashion to me is all about options,” he told me, “and opening up to all possibilities.” He said that although he is now able to experiment with his style depending on whatever interests him at the moment, getting to this point was not an easy or straightforward path. “As a trans guy,” he explained, “I have certainly felt internal pressure to stick to simple masculine outfits, since passing as male is something I’ve needed to put conscious effort towards.” However, Bennett also makes the important point that although he finds himself in a position where he is comfortable with challenging gender norms that he says were once a source of dysphoria for him, this isn’t what works for everyone. “That’s not saying that people who have dysphoria and want to adhere to gender norms aren’t comfortable with themselves,” he said, “that’s just what being comfortable with myself means to me, personally.”

31

“ANDROGYNOUS FASHION TO ME IS ALL ABOUT OPTIONS AND OPENING UP TO ALL POSSIBILITIES.”

32

33

I

t’s also worth noting that one’s fashion choices can have as much or as little attachment to their gender identity as they want. That’s part of why doing away with the classification of clothing as men’s or women’s is so important.

Until more recently than we would like to think, Western society frowned upon women wearing pants. Ironically, Candace Owens, one of the conservative pundits who thoroughly criticized the Harry Styles Vogue cover, almost exclusively wears pantsuits, something that would be unheard of if we stuck to the fashion conventions of the past. All in all, the relationship between the intersection of gender and fashion is deeply personal and individual.

You can choose to express yourself through clothes that typically align with your gender identity, you could do the opposite, or you might find a place for yourself somewhere in between.

Wear what makes you feel the most you.

Written by: Eric Miller Stylists: Emmy Goodwin, Alex Walen, Anna Sakamoto, Piper Williams, Surya Gowda, Andrew Charman, Louisa Crozier Photographer: Brenne Hoeven Models: Joe Largo, Olivia Chandler, Aurora Cai, Ronan Kudzin, Jeremy Bennett Brown, Kat Tsaryova Layout: Grace Halligan

34

@hcsignaturestyle

hamilton college

spring 2021