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ISRAELI SOUL (ON A PLATE)
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KNOW YOUR KNIVES
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ON NT RA TA U A RES
Stop Butchering the broil
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DEMYSTIFYING LONDON BROIL pg
USA $5.99 / Canada $6.99 / UK £5 Australia $9 / SA R90 / Israel 25
contents
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EDITOR'S LETTER
14
BUTCHER’S CUT
Demystifying London Broil
BOOK REVIEW Michael Solomonov & Steve Cook are back at it with Israeli Soul
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SEASONAL FEATURE Cook the Trends + Classics We Love Pitaya Bowls 33 Eat the Rainbow 34
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Number Cakes 35 Plant Based Alternatives 36 Beets are In 38 Beyond Rib Steak 41 Charcuterie 42 Technology 44 Middle Eastern Cuisine 46
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
32
Hawaij 48 Time for Seconds 54
Alenbi: The Art of Fine Dining +Kosher Guru’s Top 5
The Classics 56
58
WINE COLUMN: Be a Rule Breaker
60
MODERN HEIMISH Chef Isaac Bernstein shares a Pom Prime Shabbos staple
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SEASONAL FEATURE
TRAVEL Croatia + Recipes
68
Cook the Trends + Classics We Love
CHALLAH Cook the Classics
62 TRAVEL
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WHOLESOME EATING Smoothie bowls turn into popsicles
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RECIPE GUIDE + a week of dinners
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INTERVIEW Chef Chaya
Croatia + Recipes
GE 4
Fleishigs
Guest Editor: Each month a guest editor will visit the Fleishigs offices and provide signature tips, tricks and recipes throughout the issue. For our trends issue, trend-setting Instagram star, Chef Chaya (check out her interview pg. 74) shares her thoughts on sous vide cooking, Alenbi restaurant and her MUST-HAVE kitchen accessory.
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com
editor's letter S
haring the news that I was working on an all-new food publication was met with a lot of excitement. When I revealed the theme (meat-centric POV) and name (Fleishigs), the consistent shocked reactions were priceless. Read about acclaimed cookbook author Rochie Pinson’s reaction on page 68 (and get the secrets to the best classic challah recipe). The truth is, what drives the content in the pages before you goes above our need to simply share a collection of new recipes. New recipes, especially in today’s culture, are a dime a dozen. The purpose of this publication is to share solid, well-researched information, recipes, and stories that cannot be found anywhere else. There is no publication or even website completely dedicated to kosher meat and poultry, pareve sides, and desserts. This is the void we hope to fill. While we all know you can easily Google or ask Alexa to pull up a brisket, rib roast, or burger recipe, the recipes we share go through a vigorous testing process so that when you follow a Fleishigs recipe, you can do so with confidence and rely on our well-researched approach. The column "Butcher’s Cut," for example, delves into one of the most mysterious cuts of meat, the London Broil, authored by Chef Yosef Schwartz (HasidHipster, Miami). Amp up traditional schnitzel with Chef Isaac’s duck version of the classic in 'Modern Heimish' (page 60). Learn everything you
PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker
ever wanted to know (or didn’t think you needed to know) about knives in "Culinary School" (page 9) taught by the talented chef Sandy Leibowitz. As our premiere issue comes out in sync with KosherFest 2018, we compiled the latest food trends. One of the latest food trends, the charcuterie board, is shared with the Fleishigs list of musthaves. We taste tested the Impossible Burger, another big buzzed-about trend, against traditional burgers to see if it is really worth the hype. While we were thinking burgers, we created the best ever classic burger you will likely make in your home kitchen (the secret will surprise you). We are even taking our travel feature up a notch by sharing new, international recipes. The one I’m personally obsessed with is Croatia’s version of the babka, called Povitica, which creates a double-decker layer of swirls. Follow us on Instagram @fleishigsmag or sign up to our emails (www.fleishigs.com) to view the step-bystep video. I am beyond privileged to begin this new journey with fellow passionate cooks and those who cook for passionate eaters. I am always available to chat and talk food on @fleishigsmag Instagram page, where you can join me in daily food adventures. Bitayavon,
FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappaport EDITOR Chana Weiss MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt
www.fleishigs.com
Comment & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com
Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishseddy.com for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or Fishseddy the store at 889 Broadway at 19th street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.
Shifra
Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com 6
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butcher's cut
STOP BUTCHERING
THE
BROIL
Chef Yos Schwartz of Hassid+Hipster breaks down the mystery behind London Broil, so you can shop and cook London Broil with chef-level confidence. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER
London Broil
CLASSIC LONDON BROIL
MINUTE LONDON BROIL
SHOULDER LONDON BROIL
is an anomaly in that it refers to a method of cooking, rather than a specific cut of meat. Like its name indicates, it is a cut of meat (usually from the shoulder or chuck section) that is best cooked broiled; quickly on high heat. But because all London Broils aren’t created equal (unlike a ribeye or hanger steak), a recipe calling for London Broil isn’t specific enough to yield consistent, successful results. To achieve success, it is crucial to know WHICH type of London Broil you are dealing with because where the London Broil comes from determines the ideal way to cook it.
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restaurant chronicles
ALENBI
THE ART OF FINE DINING Get an inside look at the immense prep and little-known side of running a fine dining establishment. BY SHIFRA KLEIN
"T
here are times I wish I had opened a steakhouse,” confesses Judah Schlass, owner of Alenbi Restaurant, a Brooklyn-based fine dining restaurant. “People assume that the restaurant business is so glamorous and instantly profitable. It isn’t.” There is a complex, 24-hour work process to running an authentic fine dining establishment like Alenbi, where executive chef Elior Balbul has created a modern, fresh take on Israeli food. At Alenbi, classics like Jerusalem-mixed grill and falafel are reimagined and look nothing like the casual street food dishes one would find visiting Israel. One of the main goals of Alenbi is to offer a new dining experience inspired by the familiar flavors and ingredients of Israel. This was a passion project of Judah Schlass that took a few years to become operational. There is a precision and professionalism at Alenbi that is truly remarkable: great service and consistent harmonious food that is full of ingenuity, impressive to behold. It takes rigorous planning and organizing to get it right every time. We spent a day at Alenbi to gain an inside look into what happens in preparation for the restaurant's opening.
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11pm Each day really starts the night before, once the restaurant finishes service at around 11pm. This is when all the chefs clean their stations, take note of what food was left, and make a list of what needs to be done the next day. Once the kitchen and waitstaff leave, a crew comes in to clean the restaurant from top to bottom, usually working from midnight to early morning. 8am The restaurant staff start trickling in to begin prep for 5pm service. The mashgiach (certified by the OK), and sous chef start by checking and breaking down ingredients, as deliveries start coming in for the day. The pastry chef also starts the day bright and early. On any given morning, there are about three active stations prepping and cooking for the day ahead. Each item on the menu has various elements that come together seamlessly, but need attentive, organized prep to make it onto the plate. 10am Executive Chef Elior Balbul arrives to deal with vendors, inventory, and implementation of a prep list for the day. He also prepares all the sauces and components for many of the dishes and works on creating new options. Every two weeks, new, seasonal dishes are added to the menu. This keeps things
Fine dining restaurants are defined by the high quality of food and service they provide. Each ingredient matters, even the herb garnish (in this case the cilantro) is picture perfect.
fresh and offers diners a taste of seasonal produce that isn’t available year-round. A sunchoke soup with homemade gnocchi is currently in the works and should be on the November menu. From 10am until service at 5pm, Chef Elior oversees and takes part in all the prep taking place throughout the kitchen. 11am The hot and cold stations are deep in preparations for the service ahead. Meticulous chopping, slicing, dicing, and cooking is underway. Fresh greenery is placed in pots of cold water to maintain freshness (great tip), chickpeas are tossed with pickled onion, and leeks are poached on the stove top. (read more on page 27) w w w.f leishigs.com
TIPS Elior (pictured with owner Judah Schlass) brings his vast kitchen experience (he was executive chef of Blue Sky restaurant under famed chef Meir Adoni) and Israeli attitude (an army veteran) to the Alenbi kitchen. He is a thoughtful, organized chef with a clear vision and respect for the people who work for him and the food he prepares. “When you do something with respect and love, it comes back to reward you.�
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TRENDS
BEETS ARE IN  Every few years, there is a roundup of recipes that presents humble vegetables in a new light. Whoever thought that kale would explode? Cauliflower? Well...boy did they, along with vegetables in general. We are entering a time period where vegetables are truly being celebrated. Our personal favorite at the moment? Beets. They come in various colors (eat the rainbow approved), can be cooked in many ways and are just really good for you. Our favorite method for cooking beets is oven roasting. Oven roast a bunch of beets and use in everything. They make a great side dish, salad, and pizza or sandwich topper. Beets are low in calories and have a little bit of almost every vitamin and mineral you need, like Vitamin C, iron, magnesium & potassium (to name a few). Eating beets can help lower blood pressure, improve brain health and athletic function, fight inflammation and help in digestive health.
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TRENDS
FLEISHIGS BEET SALAD Serves: 8
Beet salad can start from a basic combo of beets, scallions and lemon to a more dynamic and meallike platter on a bed of greens, topped with juicy, roasted chicken.
Turn to page
40
for more on roasting beets and the many ways to use them.
1 pound chicken breast, skin on 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 4 cups mixed greens 2 cups sliced, roasted beets ½ cup chopped scallions ½ cup pistachios 1 avocado, thinly sliced ¼ cup lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon dijon mustard 1 tablespoon honey ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 clove crushed garlic, optional Preheat oven to 450°F. Place chicken on baking tray and drizzle oil over chicken. Rub with salt and pepper, and roast until cooked through, 25 minutes. Spread mixed greens on a large platter. Top with beets, scallions, pistachios, and avocado. In a small container, mix lemon juice, olive oil, honey, dijon mustard, garlic, kosher salt, and black pepper. Drizzle over salad. Slice chicken and serve over salad. Serve immediately.
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