Fleishigs Magazine Issue 009 - August 2019

M E D I U M D O N E

page 15

ISSUE

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W E L L

page 49

I CAN SHOW YOU THE SHUK: SHINING, SHIMMERING, SPLENDID.

AUGUST 2019

page 63

ALENBI: FOOD THAT PUSHES BORDERS.

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BE FRUITFUL & MULTI-BRINE: BRINED TURKEY.

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Stay tuned for more refreshing new products.

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CONTENTS

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14

EDITOR'S LETTER +My Hot List +American Arayes

10

THE REMAINS OF OLD MACHNE YEHUDA A Photo Story

THE SHUK IS TRULY BAZAAR

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Perusing Shuk HaCarmel with Adeena Sussman

TRAVEL Herzliya

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MELTING POT CUISINE

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COOKBOOK REVIEW Sababa by Adeena Sussman

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CULINARY SCHOOL Kubaneh: Manna From Yemen

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TOP 5 Under-The-Radar Restaurants

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES: ALENBI The Modernization of Israeli Cuisine

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BUTCHER’S CUT: TURKEY

GET GRILLING

68 72

Kabobs

SOUS VIDE

L’CHAIM Israeli Wines of Value

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ISRAELI HOT DOG BAR

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INTERVIEW Nurit Silverwater of the Inbal Hotel

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RECIPE INDEX

DRINK UP Limonana

ADEENA SUSSMAN has co-authored eleven cookbooks, including the New York Times #1 bestseller Cravings—and its New York Times bestselling follow-up, Hungry for More--with Chrissy Teigen. She is also the author of Short Stack Editions' Tahini. A lifelong visitor to Israel, she moved there in 2015 after meeting an expat American who has since become her husband. She lives footsteps from Tel Aviv's Carmel Market, where she shops and explores daily, taking inspiration from her adopted country's seasonal and cultural culinary rhythms. She has written about Israeli food for Food & Wine, The Wall Street Journal, Epicurious, Gourmet, and many others. Read more on page 14 & page 30.

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For those with higher standards.â„

Fresh ly pa cke and seale d d.

Sourced from 5 different countries, packed and sealed immediately on-site at the Port of Singapore, we do this to ensure a freshness you can taste long after the island has disappeared from view. With the security of a fresh meal to accompany you, there’s no limit where you can go.

Ask not where you can take Gefen Instant Noodle Soup, but where can it take you.

editor's letter

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

THE ISRAEL ISSUE

FROM THE MIDDLE EAST COMES

F R O N T R OW F L AVO R .

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz PROOFREADER Chana Weiss DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein TEST KITCHEN MANAGER Marnie Levy MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt RABBINICAL AUTHORITY www.ok.org

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Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited.

Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.

Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

I

have a deep-rooted appreciation for Israel. My mother was 9 years old when her family left everything they had in Russia in the early 1960s and moved to Israel in pursuit of a better life and religious freedom. For her family, the existence of the state of Israel fulfilled everything for them, a place for all Jews to feel at home. My father, who was born in Israel to Holocaust survivors, echos that sentiment as well. His father, originally from Poland, lost every member of his family during the war. Israel was a place for them to exist and start a new life. On the Klein side, my father-in-law is a 12th generation ‘Yerushalmi’ and grew up in the enclaves of Mea Shearim.

Both my husband Shlomo and I share similar memories of our many childhood trips to Israel visiting family. We each respectively always made a trip to the Kotel and then pretty much hung out with family. My family set up shop in Kiryat Malachi, where we feasted on borscht, my Bubby’s amazing k’tzitzot aka meatball-burger hybrid (I’ll share the process on Instagram, so stay tuned) and her pita grilled cheese. There was always ice cream and falafel breaks and who can forget the pink-hued, sweet bamba-like snack I absolutely loved? Since these childhood trips were mostly focused on spending time with family, we really only got to know Israel as post-high school students; Shlomo studied for 3 years in Kiryat Gat and I studied for 1 year in Tzfat.

For both of us, it was the first time visiting iconic spots like the Dead Sea, Ein Gedi and Masada. Now when we visit, we make sure to pack the itinerary with a mix of culture and of course food (it is our job, after all).

On that note, the food of Israel showcases a one-of-a-kind culture based on the convergence of people from all over the word. The fascinating aspect of this is that despite the various nationalities coming together, an undeniable Israeli identity emerged.

Sina Mizrahi shares her favorite melting pot

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When planning this Israeli issue, it was just as overwhelming as planning a week’s vacation to Israel. So little time, so much to do. In our case, there was a plethora of content we wanted to feature, but with limited page numbers, we took a very specific approach. The issue became themed around seeing Israel through its food. This is why you will find turkey in our butcher’s cut section (unbeknownst to many, Israelis eat a lot of turkey), kabobs for some summer grilling inspiration and an Israelithemed hot dog bar that will enhance your summer fiesta (it is the August issue after all).

Our travel section takes you to Herzliya (page 24) and you’ll find 5 Under-The-Radar food spots that are musts for your next trip (page 36). Bringing an account of where Israeli finedining stands in America today, we feature Alenbi in Brooklyn, NY (page 49). As always, we peppered in many delicious Israeli-inspired recipes throughout the issue.

It is my hope that we did Israel justice in this month’s issue; it was truly a labor of love and made us yearn for the land and all it has to offer, just like my parents and grandparents did before me.

Have a wonderful end of summer!

Bitayavon, Shifra P.S. We would love to see your Fleishigs creations, so be sure to share via email, Facebook or Instagram. Subscribers! Two incredible recipes that didn’t make it into the issue will land in your email inbox soon.

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know!

Hello@fleishigs.com

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recipes and discusses this unique phenomenon on page 40. As you walk through any market in Israel like Adeena Sussman did with Danielle Renov (see page 14), you will be greeted by Yemenite lachuch, Tunisian Burika (not to be mistaken for boureka, this treat is made with a brick dough and deep fried), Belgian style ice cream cones and the always fresh and seasonal Israeli produce.

@Fleishigsmag

@Fleishigsmag

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My Hot List: 1. GEULA It’s a must to visit on Friday before Shabbat to grab some authentic Yerushalmi kugel, fresh Israeli-style challah, popcorn and Uri’s Pizza (more for the rotev aka dipping sauce than the pizza itself). You may also stumble upon some amazing art in the side alleys.

A M E R I C A N A R AY E S This is my American spin on arayes, Middle Eastern stuffed meat pitas. I replaced the Middle Eastern flavors of herbs and cumin with beef fry and barbecue sauce to create a fantastic grilled treat that will impress family and friends.

2. MACHANE YEHUDAH MARKET Plan to spend a full day at Machane Yehudah and do NOT come on Friday.

The crowds are unimaginably tight, making it truly difficult to walk and enjoy. The shuk is incredible any time of day. The morning hustle and brunch crowds (Chaba is our favorite brunch spot) make way for tourist-filled afternoons. At night the shuk transitions to a hopping party scene. Some of our favorite spots include: Craft Pizza (sourdough based dough), Hatch (delicious chicken wings), Azura (authentic Middle Eastern food like no other), Ishtabach (lives up to the hype), Fish ‘n Chips (crispy and delicious) and Aldo (great waffles and ice cream options).

3. CARMEL MARKET (SEE PG. 14) My personal recommendation is to arrive early so you can see the Yemenite bakery in action and stop by Cohen’s coffee shop for great coffee and a show.

4. SARONA MARKET IN TEL AVIV Sarona doesn’t have much in the way of kosher options, but it is an upscale food hub that can be fun for a food-loving tourist. Here you will find gourmet shops that source cooking tools, kosher olive oils and lots of interesting vegan foods. Sarona is also located near many popular museums.

5. MALCHA MALL This is THE spot to fulfill your feasting dreams. A kosher food court with some great options, the mall also offers stunning food shops with Shabbat takeout options as well. The mall is located near the Tisch Family Zoological Gardens and a sports center, so you can plan to spend one full day in this area.

2 (4-ounce) packages of beef fry 1 pound ground beef 1 egg, lightly beaten ¼ cup bread crumbs ½ cup barbecue sauce 1 teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2-4 pitas Green goddess dressing (pg. 31), for serving

Set a large frying pan over medium-high heat and immediately add the beef fry. Let cook 5 minutes per side, until fat is rendered

and the beef fry gets crisp. Remove from pan, let cool and then finely chop. Reserve remaining fat. Combine the chopped beef fry, ground beef, egg, bread crumbs, barbecue sauce, garlic powder, black pepper and salt together.

Slice pitas in half and gently stuff meat mixture inside, making sure not to rip the pita bread.

Brush reserved beef fry fat (or oil) over the pita and exposed beef and grill over medium heat for 5 minutes per side, until golden brown.

Serve hot with green goddess dressing.

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PAGE HEADER

THE REMAINS OF OLD MACHANE YEHUDAH 1 10

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MACHANE YEHUDAH

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ix years ago, when visiting shuk Machane Yehudah, I had the privilege of having coffee with Eli Mizrahi, a former café owner and a big advocate of the shuk. He was even fondly known as the “mayor” of the shuk. At that time, he passionately expressed concern about the changing face of the shuk. What was once a real marketplace for locals to buy all of their basics was slowly transforming into a trendy restaurant and bar scene, attracting crowds of tourists. The increase in rent prices inevitably pushed out locals who had been there for decades to make way for bars, coffee shops and nonIsraeli food spots that sell buffalo wings and lamb bacon.

1. (Previous Page) With the gentrification of the shuk and many concept locations opening up, the vendors of the past are slowly closing up shop. But this man shows up every day to his charming old-school stall and waits for his customers. 2. Fresh spices piled high in steel bowls are a hallmark of the shuk. You will find many vendors selling aromatic and exotic spices that are so colorful, snapping a photo is a must. 3.

With the plethora of spice stalls, putting towers of paprika on display is so eye-catching, it's meant to lure tourists in. 4. Neighboring vendors take breaks and visit each other for a quick (often animated and loud) chat. 5. These men are there every day kneading dough into laffa and pita, yielding trays upon trays of freshly baked bread all day, every day. There's nothing like it.

color and bustle 2

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This past February, I visited the shuk and was struck by how right Eli was. The shuk today is half shuk, half food court and includes a major party scene, where Ben Yehuda Street was once the popular spot for nightlife. I reached out to fellow food writer and photographer Sina Mizrahi to capture the shuk we all remember.

The following is a pictorial highlight of some favorite old school spots you must visit on your next trip to Israel. Save the buffalo wings for a date night at home.

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taste and smell 6. The newest trend at the shuk is offering trays of Middle Eastern desserts like baklava and knafe, even at stalls that don't typically sell desserts. 7. On a busy Friday morning, you will find Jews of all walks of life shopping for Shabbat with a cart in one hand and sometimes a child in the other. 8. The shuk is a loud, fast-paced marketplace that pulses with energy. 9. The sweet, intoxicating smell of rugelach wafts through the alleys from the many bakeries offering the delectable dessert for purchase. I can't say which one is the best but I'll tell you that the ones with sesame seeds are the most worthwhile. 10. These cake-like halva blocks are the shuk's poster child and are arguably a must to taste and even wrap a sliver to go. 11. Most of the produce vendors go back decades and still offer the sweetest fruits and crispiest vegetables in town.

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THIS SHUK IS TRULY BAZAAR Perusing Shuk HaCarmel

with Adeena Sussman

Danielle Renov @peaslovencarrots

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The shuk is a magical place. No carpet, lamp, or genie needed.

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un rays so hot and strong you could literally see them streaking out of the sky onto your skin. Cars pulling in and out of the lot. Old ladies, whose wisdom is written across their faces by the wrinkles in their skin, pulling shuk carts. Young men and women sitting on rickety iron chairs that wiggle from side to side because of the unevenness of the road they rest upon.

Mothers and fathers with small children- in strollers, holding their hands, or in slings across their backs, winding through the alleyways doing their daily grocery shopping. Noise. All of it. People laughing, children whispering, vendors shouting out their best deals of the day, music from old fashioned radios blaring out English, Hebrew, Arabic and French. The smells, constantly changing as you

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walk from stall to stall. These are the sights, sounds and smells that you experience in the first 30 seconds of entering Shuk HaCarmel in Tel Aviv, Israel.

As I walked up to the entrance, I immediately spotted my tour guide for the day- cookbook author extraordinaire, Adeena Sussman. She was casually leaning aganst a random stall, chatting with the vendor and the photographer, Jordan Polevoy. That is Adeena in nutshell. Extremely personable and friendly, accepting of everyone and full of wisdom and knowledge without being pretentious, Adeena’s knowledge of food and Israeli culture knows no bounds, making her exactly the kind of person you want to wander the shuk with.

We started off at one of the

"fancier" stalls that somehow manages to source produce like jalapeños and micro greens, items that are extremely difficult to get in Israel. Oh, and credit cards.

They. Accept. Credit. Cards. In a small street that is filled with people whose world doesn’t extend past the stall a few meters down, this is a novelty.

And fancy. A fancy, novelty produce store which also happens to be where Adeena was able to source so many of the much needed ingredients for her upcoming cookbook, Sababa, which will release in September (available for preorder now on Amazon).

As we made our way deeper into the shuk, it became increasingly clear to me that although Adeena may look American on the outside, with

her golden blonde hair and very audible California accent, her heart and soul is pure Israeli.

There was not a vendor, Arab nor Jewish, who did not meet Adeena with a smile and the warmest of greetings. Adeena knew exactly which stall to go to for everything and I immediately understood what a privilege it was to be guided through the shuk with an actual local.

Next, Adeena took me to Pinat HaDruzit, where they sell only one thing- Druze pita filled with labne, some vegetables and herbs. That’s it. It is owned by a Druze woman named Juliana who lives close by in Daliyat Al-Karmel. She flawlessly makes pita after pita (which actually look more like crepes than pitas) on her ancient-looking convex steel drum that is heated to such an exact temperature that when

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the super thin dough hits the drum, it immediately begins to bubble; within seconds, it’s flipped and then moved onto the ever growing mountain of pita, ready to sell. Watching her hands work with the dough was completely mesmerizing.

It’s as if her wrinkled, arthritic hands have become one with the dough and work together in perfect harmony to spin out the most perfect, thin circles of dough ever to be crafted by hand!

As we passed stall after stall, Adeena made sure to point out her favorite vendors, like the always-under-construction cheese stall that sells every variety of Israeli artisan cheese. We passed table after table piled high with summer’s best produce. Mountains of yellow, red, orange and striped

cherry tomatoes, perfectly lined up baladi eggplants that that Adeena kept pointing out (which I’m pretty sure means they will be making a few appearances in her book, yum!) and rows of baskets filled with perfectly sweet heirloom apricots at the end of their season.

Snaking our way around shuk carts, being careful not to knock down the wagons piled high with produce, Adeena told us a little bit of the history of where we were standing. She explained how modern Tel Aviv was founded in 1909 by mostly Ashkenazi Jews who lived near the Rothschild district.

Eventually, there was a huge mix of Ashkenazi, Yemenite and Russian Jews all coexisting right around the area. The Yementies started bringing carts of food to sell to what is

now the top of the main shuk road, but despite the city’s best efforts to make a shuk area near Betzalel, Rechov HaCarmel became its permanent location. Eventually the city got on board and closed the street down to cars.

Finally, we arrived at what I thought was the best food I ate all day - Adeena’s favorite falafel stand, Elad Falafel. It's a tiny stand run by Elad, an Israeli born Yemenite Jew who inherited this stall from his grandfather, who opened it over 60 years ago. It was the most delicious falafel I had in a long time; a perfect shade of brown (because I am a believer that falafel should be brown, not green), crispy on the outside, soft on the inside. The fillings were simple (as they should be) and each ingredient stood out

on its own. I had mine stuffed with a spicy, herby schug, cucumbers (no tomatoes for me), some pickles, tahini, a drizzle of amba and sauerkraut! I know, crazy. It’s not easy to find a falafel in Jerusalem (where I live) with sauerkraut, but apparently the tangy, pickled cabbage is a standard filling in Yemenite falafel and I could not have been happier about that!

After lunch, we wound our way through different stalls, passing people selling all kinds of freshly baked breads and varieties of Arab-influenced desserts like knafe and nougat.

We met Enzo, a Roman transplant to Israel, selling authentic Italian triangular ciabattas made with his grandmother’s recipe, filled with all kinds of delicious meat, chicken and vegetables.

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Lastly, we ended up in what was clearly one of Adeena’s favorite spots in the shuk Pitzuchei Amrani, also known as Nachliel’s Spice Shop. What Adeena loves most about this specific spice stall is the quality of spices they sell. All the spices are kept in closed containers so as to maintain the quality. Because they are known to be the best, they have a huge turnover rate, ensuring the freshest spices always! The stall was opened in 1935 and for many years the family would get together every so often in order to dry and grind peppers to make their own paprika. It was clear that this is one of Adeena's happy places and has influenced her eating, cooking and recipe developing heavily. Aside from that, it was beautiful to witness how happy all the vendor owners were to serve us.

Walking through the ancient shuk with Adeena, I could not help but feel the pulse of the city around me. The different cultures that coexist here, the styles of food influenced by different corners of the world and the sounds of different languages being spoken simultaneously all around you, come together in this magical place that Adeena calls home. Her book, Sababa, is the ultimate testimony to how all these different cultures have merged and blended together on one simple street to form what we know as the melting pot of Israeli cuisine.

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Worlds collide, foods come alive, spices shine, vendors display their splendors.

Born and raised in New York, Danielle Renov of @peaslovencarrots brings her Moroccan and Mediterranean influenced recipes to a worldwide audience out of her home in Jerusalem, Israel. From her popular website, www.peaslovencarrots. com, and various social media platforms she's always having fun and sharing her love of cooking with her viewers.

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WHEN SUPPER BECOMES DINNER Eli coats and grills his

CHICKEN CUTLETS

with Pesto Mayo Moishy smears his

AVOCADO TOAST

with Pesto Mayo

Raizy makes her famous

SALMON DISH

with Pesto Mayo Yosef makes his

PESTO PIZZA

with Pesto Mayo

Savory Summer Vegetable Galette For the crust: ½ cup softened coconut oil ½ cup olive oil 2 ½ cups all purpose flour ½ teaspoon fine sea salt ½ cup ice water, plus more as needed For the filling and egg wash: 1 medium yellow zucchini, trimmed 1 medium green zucchini, trimmed 3 small tomatoes (about the same diameter as the zucchini), trimmed ½ small red onion, cut into thin rings 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced, plus more for sprinkling ¼ cup olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 egg

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Recipe by Adeena Sussman exclusively for Fleishigs Magazine.

Make the crust: Combine the coconut oil and olive oil in a small bowl and chill for 1 hour.

Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to combine.

Using a teaspoon, scoop the chilled oil mixture into the dough and pulse until coarse crumbs form, no more than 15 pulses. Add the ice water and pulse an additional 5 seconds until the dough just comes together. Move the dough to a floured work surface. Gather the dough into a 5-inch disc, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour, up to 24 hours (dough can also be frozen for up to 2 weeks and defrosted before using).

Form and bake the tart: Preheat the oven to 375°F. While the dough is chilling, slice the yellow and green zucchini and tomatoes into 1/8inch rounds. Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Place the dough in the center of a large piece of parchment paper and roll it into a 12-inch circle.

Arrange the zucchini, tomato and onions in concentric circles towards the center until the entire surface is covered, leaving a 2-inch border around the edges. Sprinkle the vegetables with thyme, brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Fold the edges of the dough around the vegetables. Whisk the egg with a drop of water and a pinch of salt; brush the crust with the egg wash.

Bake until the vegetables have softened and the crust is golden and flaky, 30 to 35 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

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TASTE THE MAGIC. AUGUST 2019

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Tomato and Watermelon Salad With Spicy Vinaigrette

Recipe by Adeena Sussman exclusively for Fleishigs Magazine.

Serves: 6-8 1 ½ pounds heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved 1 ½ pounds watermelon, cut into chunks ½ small red onion, thinly sliced ½ cup fresh basil, thinly sliced ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup olive oil 1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and cut into rings Pinch of salt Freshly cracked black pepper, for garnish Basil leaves, for garnish

Lay tomatoes and watermelon on a platter or in a serving bowl.

Top with red onions and basil.

In a small bowl, combine vinegar, honey, olive oil, jalapeño peppers and salt.

Drizzle over salad.

Serve with freshly cracked black pepper and more basil to garnish.

If you can’t find white balsamic, use white wine vinegar.

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SHUK, SPICE, AND EVERYTHING NICE. AUGUST 2019

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TRAVEL

Herzliya ONE BITE AT A TIME

BY CHAVIVA GORDON-BENNETT

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ffering some of Israel’s most beautiful, sandy white beaches and plenty of kosher options, Herzliya is the modern traveler’s oasis and explorer’s paradise. Located in the heart of Israel’s northern coast, Herzliya is known for its vibrant tech scene (the Silicon Valley of Israel), but it’s also a hub for history, art, culture and beaches with breakers built for surfing and more. This vibrant city is a quick trip north from Tel Aviv and an easy 1.5 hour trek from Jerusalem or Haifa.

If you’re not familiar with this affluent beachfront town, get started by exploring the panorama of the Herzliya coast from Apollonia National Park, where you can

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delve into the remains of a 13th-century crusader city and medieval fortress. Or stop by the one-of-a-kind Hermit House of Herzliya, a multi-story home built into a cliff over a 40 year period and made entirely out of rocks, seashells and other objects.

But if you’re like most kosher travelers, it’s Herzliya’s explosion in kosher options that is the real pull to this beautiful coastal city with stunning sunsets. Thanks to the booming “Silicon Wadi” scene and an increase in kosher-keeping tourists and residents alike, Herzliya’s kosher options are both abundant and exceed expectations.

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TRAVEL

THE RITZ-CARLTON HERZLIYA

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his luxury, five-star resort in the Herlizya marina is not only fully kosher, but it’s also surrounded by stunning views and even more kosher spots.

As a family-friendly destination, the Ritz-Carlton Herzliya offers large family rooms over multiple floors with kitchenettes, kid-friendly programs and unmatched service. The hotel also has a posh rooftop pool and bar, lavish spa and modern Mediterranean vibe, making it one of Israel’s most luxurious destinations.

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But you’re here for the food, right? It is well known that Israel’s hotels are famous for their breakfast spreads and the Ritz-Carlton doesn’t disappoint. Guests enjoy breakfast while taking in bright marina views from the hotel’s fine dining open restaurant. In classic Israeli fashion, the breakfast buffet features a clean array of cheeses and yogurts, fully-loaded salad buffet featuring fresh and roasted vegetables, an omelette station, coffee made to order (or black, as Mother Nature intended), service from Israel’s friendliest waiters and more.

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HERBERT SAMUEL RESTAURANT

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ith Chef Mor Cohen at the helm, an open kitchen design, unbelievable water views and seasonal fare, the Ritz-Carlton’s signature Herbert Samuel restaurant is one of the region’s most impressive dining destinations. Whether you’re a guest at the Ritz or just passing through, Herbert Samuel must be on your list. We had the privilege of dining at Herbert Samuel and were extremely impressed with the creativity and freshness of the menu.

Everything is seasonal, bright and vibrant to parallel the panoramic water views, including the tuna sashimi with persimmon and ginger vinaigrette, young fennel salsa and charred spring onion oil, served with a deconstructed Japanese caesar salad of raw salmon belly, young lettuce, umami aioli and wakame seaweed croutons.

We were also impressed with just how elevated cauliflower could be, with Chef Cohen’s char-grilled cauliflower with a

rich truffle cream, balsamic vinegar and smoked salt, served with a perfectly poached egg to transform the humble vegetable into a gourmet treat.

We savored the stuffed veal tortellini, which was not only expertly made, but was brimming with slow-roasted veal shoulder and served with mushrooms, fresh peas and a savory veal demi glace that was out-of-this-world delicious. Next up was smoky grilled artichoke and bresaola with an herbaceous thyme aioli and crunchy challah croutons that even a Bubbe could stand behind.

Chef Cohen sources his meat directly from the Golan Heights, so it doesn’t get more local than that. For the main event, we enjoyed the filet of beef, which was crusted with parsley and served with goose liver, roasted bone marrow, potato confit and organic beets. We also enjoyed the Levin Farm duck breast paired with silky Japanese pumpkin cream, miso teriyaki glaze and a bright pineapple chimichurri.

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TRAVEL The strip mall near the Ritz Carlton houses many kosher restaurant and entertainment options.

OTHER KOSHER OPTIONS IN HERZLIYA Beyond the Ritz-Carlton’s breakfast spread and Herbert Samuel’s fine dining, there are plenty of kosher options local to Herzliya.

ARENA MALL

FRESH KITCHEN

BISTRO 56

ETNIKA

2 Ha-Shunit St

2 Ha-Shunit St | Rabbanut Herzliya freshkitchen.co.il

2 Ha-Shunit St | Rabbanut Herzliya bistro56.co.il

Arieh Shenkar St 7 | Rabbanut Herzliya etnika.co.il/homepage/

Also located in the Arena Mall, Bistro 56 is known for generous portions and meat straight from the Golan Heights, including loaded burgers, entrecôte steaks and more. Serving up unforgettable water views (grab a table around sunset), Bistro 56 also offers plenty of options for vegetarians, including fish and vegetables dishes to swoon over.

Although Etnika is known for its mouthwatering aged Golan Heights beef, the popular restaurant also offers fresh fish and some unique dishes, including Malfatto Asado, Armenian Lahmajoun and Morroccan Fish.

One look at the restaurant’s online gallery, and you’ll quickly make reservations.

Located on the beach at the marina, Arena Mall was designed with Italy’s famous piazzas in mind. Among the mall’s more than 100 retailers and kosher restaurants, you’ll find a sprawling supermarket filled with all the kosher dairy, produce, breads and snacks you could possibly need.

PAPAGAIO 2 Ha-Shunit St | Rabbanut Herzliya papagaioherzliya.rest.co.il Located in the Arena Mall, this well-known Brazilianstyle Israeli steakhouse chain is a perfect (albeit expensive) choice if you’re craving freshly grilled meat — sirloin, entrecôte, chorizo, kebabs, asado and more — served tableside on a giant spear.

Spend just a few seconds on Fresh Kitchen’s Instagram feed (@fresh_kitchen) and you’ll be dreaming of the bright sandy beaches of Herzliya. Fresh Kitchen serves up the usual Israeli café fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Arena Mall.

With shakes, smoothies, coffee, salads, pizza, pasta, paninis, shakshuka and more, Fresh Kitchen is the perfect dining destination for the whole family.

THE MEAT & WINE CO.

Yordei Yam St 1 | Badatz

Arieh Shenkar St 16 | Mehadrin

by Rav Machpud of Bnei Brak meatandwine.co.il/en/

Located in the marina park, Café Café is one of Israel’s most popular restaurant chains, offering affordable Israeli fare, such as shakshuka, sandwiches, salads, coffee and more.

Part of a global chain of restaurants, The Meat & Wine Co. specializes in dry-aged meats and its Herzliya location features local and imported wine and meat, as well as luxe indoor and outdoor seating.

CAFÉ CAFÉ

MINATO HERZLIYA 8 Hamenofim Street | Rabbanut Herzliya Minato.co.il Minato is a unique Japanese restaurant nestled among a cluster of other restaurants in the Herzliya Pituach tech park.

Minato specializes in authentic Japanese techniques and cuisine for Izakaya-style dining, in which food is ordered slowly from course to course instead of all at once.

Note: Everything in this article was informed by a trip taken to Herzliya in February 2019. Kashrut status and restaurant openings and closures are always changing. Although we fact checked everything prior to printing, please do your own research before making plans, or email us. We’ll gladly answer questions and confirm information.

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World Finance Magazine

COOKBOOK REVIEW

SABABA:

FRESH, SUNNY FLAVORS FROM MY ISRAELI KITCHEN. W

hat does a food writer who co-authored Chrissy Teigen’s Cravings cookbooks and 11 others produce in her first official debut book? An Israeli-inspired, fully kosher cookbook titled Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors From My Israeli Kitchen.

Adeena Sussman lives in Tel Aviv, steps away from Shuk HaCarmel, every epicurean’s dream. The shuk’s array of spices, seasonal produce, fresh fish and great vibe is Adeena’s local grocery store, essentially in her backyard. Adeena can source freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, a fresh batch of za’atar and piping hot lachuch bread from the many vendors she has befriended in her Israeli food journey.

Over the past few years, she has developed a unique cooking style that combines her modern Jewish American voice, with Israel’s finest ingredients and seasonal approach to cooking. It is this unique blend of cultures, coupled with Adeena’s brilliant food writing that makes Sababa (an Israeli slang word for “everything is awesome”) a bestseller before it has even hit store shelves.

Dreamy, delicious and reliable recipes (131 of them, to be exact) grace the pages of this stunningly photographed 368 page book. Beyond the great photos and drool-worthy recipes, what stands out is the writing. After all, Adeena is a career food writer, so it is to be expected, but it really is an incredibly relatable read. Her words are so well written, it makes you hope that Adeena’s next book will be a memoir. The book transports you to Israel and allows you to cook through her book in a way that helps you experience it through a fresh point of view.

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American classics like lemon bars, rib steak, brownies, ricotta dumplings, gravlax and street corn get an Israeli update with ingredients (respectively) like pistachios, Turkish coffee, tahini, cilantro pesto, turmeric and feta cheese. Middle Eastern classics are presented with fresh updates, like using mushrooms instead of beef for arayes and braising short ribs with hawaij for a Yemenite stew. She also transforms Jewish classics by adding medjool dates to mandelbrodt and cherries to borscht to bump up the flavor and color. She offers up the most creative yogurt bar yet, a fig yogurt pop with a tahini magic shell. Then there are the true Israeli classics, like hummus, falafel, pita, toast, Yerushalmi kugel, amba and stuffed tomatoes that are spot on authentic, like you inherited the recipe from someone’s Israeli matriarch.

The book starts with a substantial chapter on her kitchen pantry, followed

by Breakfast (it is Israel, after all), Breads, Vegetables, Salatim (separate from the vegetable chapter), Soups, Salads, Pasta & Grains, Poultry & Meat Mains, Fish & Vegetable Mains. The book even offers an inspired Drinks chapter, which is rare in the world of kosher cookbooks. The last pages of the book are dedicated to providing the reader with a brilliant shopping guide that tells you where you can source any of the harder-to-find ingredients mentioned in the book.

Sababa is sure to inspire and provides something new to cooks of all stages and levels and presents a food journey in a book that you are sure to treasure for years to come.

Reprinted with permission from SABABA by ADEENA SUSSMAN, published by AVERY, an imprint of Penguin Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC. Copyright © 2019 by ADEENA SUSSMAN

GRILLED CHICKEN AND CORN SALAD WITH AVOCADO-ZA’ATAR GREEN GODDESS DRESSING Serves 6 Active Time: 30 minutes Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes (including minimum marinating time) Not a dressing Israelis are familiar with, Green Goddess is a great foil for a basket’s worth of herbs and avocado, which I use in place of buttermilk to keep it dairy-free. I throw in a little za’atar for intrigue before hitting “blend”, and behold—a tangy dressing even the most skeptical Israelis have been unable to resist. I serve pieces of bread, rubbed generously with garlic and oil and grilled, to dip into an extra bowl of the creamy, thick dressing.

Dressing ⅓ cup mayonnaise 1 large ripe avocado, peeled and pitted ½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ cup lightly packed parsley leaves ½ cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves ¼ cup minced chives 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves,

or 1 teaspoon dried 1 teaspoon fresh za’atar or oregano leaves 1 large garlic clove, minced ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chicken, Corn Salad, and Bread 2 baby chickens or 1 regular whole

chicken (about 3 pounds total) ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Peeled strips of zest and juice of 1 lemon 4 cloves fresh garlic, smashed, plus

1 clove, halved 4 thyme sprigs Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper to taste Six 1-inch-thick slices country

bread or French bread 2 ears corn, shucked 1 small bunch kale, spines removed

and thinly sliced 1 head romaine lettuce hearts,

thinly sliced 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved ½ small red onion, thinly sliced

Make the dressing: Combine all the dressing ingredients in a blender or the bowl of a food processor and blend until smooth, thick, but still just barely pourable, 15 to 20 seconds, stopping and scraping down the sides of the blender and adding water by the tablespoonful to achieve your desired consistency.

Make the chicken, corn salad, and bread: To flatten the chickens, use kitchen shears to cut out the backs of the chickens, then turn the chickens over so the breasts are facing up. Use your hand to press down in the center of the chickens until they collapse slightly.

Combine ¼ cup olive oil, lemon zest and juice, 4 cloves smashed garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper in a glass dish or large resealable plastic bag, then add the chicken and move it around to coat in the marinade. Seal the bag. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours. Preheat a grill over mediumhigh heat. Grill the chickens until an instant-read thermometer reads 165°F or a leg comes loose easily when pulled, 7 to 8 minutes per side if using baby chickens, and 12 to 13 minutes per side if using a regular chicken.

Rub both sides of the bread with the halved clove of garlic, brush the bread with the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, and season generously with salt and pepper. During the last 6 minutes of grilling the chicken, place the corn and bread on the grill. Grill, turning occasionally and flipping the bread once, until the corn is slightly charred, and the bread is toasty and has developed grill marks, 5 to 6 minutes total for the corn, and 2 to 3 minutes per side for the bread.

Transfer the chicken, corn, and bread to a tray. Stand the corn on one end and use a sharp knife to cut the kernels from the cobs; discard the cobs. Combine the kale, romaine, corn, tomatoes, and onions in a salad bowl. Cut the chicken into pieces, drizzle the salad with the dressing, and serve with the chicken. Serve the grilled bread alongside with extra dressing.

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By Shifra Klein

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CULINARY SCHOOL

A Yemenite version of what can only be described as a croissant-like bread, kubaneh is intensely layered and traditionally slowcooked overnight. I wanted to streamline the recipe so that it can be enjoyed more casually and after baking and eating countless amounts of kubaneh, I settled on this recipe. The result is pure heaven. You can make this dairy with butter and serve serve warm with even more butter, if you'd like.

I am not a professional baker, but do want to share that the batch I made with quick-rise yeast didn’t come out as fluffy as the one made with standard active dry yeast. It was still good, but not the same.

2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast (from one ¼ ounce packet) 1¾ cups water ¼ cup sugar 4 cups all purpose flour 2 tablespoons kosher salt 10 tablespoons room temperature margarine, Earth Balance or Betterine, divided 2 tablespoons nigella seeds (optional) In a bowl of a standing mixer, combine yeast, water and sugar. Set aside for 10-15 minutes so yeast can proof. You will know it’s ready when foamy and small bubbles start to form.

Using a dough hook attachment, slowly add the flour and salt. Mix for 6 minutes, until dough is smooth. Alternatively, you can mix the dough by hand, starting with a wooden spoon and transferring dough onto a countertop for a 10 minute kneading session.

Grease bowl with 1 tablespoon room temperature margarine, place dough inside, cover with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let rise 1 hour, or until dough doubles in size.

Punch down dough and divide into 8 equal (3.6 ounce) portions. Grease a 9-inch cake pan with 1 tablespoon margarine. Sprinkle nigella seeds into the pan, if using. Set aside.

Roll out dough as thinly as you possibly can into a rectangular shape. Spread 1 tablespoon margarine over the dough. Roll dough like a jelly roll. Once you have a long strip of rolled out dough, roll it into a snail-like shape and place seam side down into the greased pan. Repeat for all eight portions of dough.

Brush top of dough with the remaining margarine or oil.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Cover with plastic wrap or damp kitchen towel and allow to rise for 30 minutes.

Bake uncovered for 40 minutes, until the top is golden brown.

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INTENSELY LAYERED AND TRADITIONALLY SLOW-COOKED

Serves: 8

THE RESULT IS PURE HEAVEN

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EAT L AN ISRA INSID

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LIKE AELI DER.

TOP 5

UNDER-THE-RADAR

KOSHER RESTAURANTS A R T I C L E A N D P H O T O G R A P H S B Y G AV I N E L S O N

B

eing a food tour guide gives me the opportunity to witness the development of Israel’s food culture firsthand: the fusion of cuisines inspired by immigrants who have made their way here from all over the world and now call Israel home; seeing the old-time vegetable vendors and spice stores sit side-by-side the hottest, up-andcoming eateries and cafés; tasting a freshly opened pomegranate and then hopping over to a café for a double espresso pre-tour pick-me-up. Every time I walk through the shuk, it’s a new adventure for me.

There’s nothing quite like eating a flaky boreka fresh out of the oven, or enjoying juice squeezed right in front of you, especially when it’s only a 5 minute walk from my apartment. Each tour comes with its own flavors, colors and personalities and I love discovering new things with every experience.

These 5 under-the-radar kosher spots should definitely be on the itinerary for your next trip to Israel.

So wash your hands and put down the fork, because these street food eateries are all hands on.

TENAT

Chlenov Street 27, Tel Aviv Under Rabbanut Tel Aviv supervision.

A MULTI-SENSORY JEWISHETHIOPIAN CELEBRATION OF TASTE, AROMA AND LOVE Tenat is a family-run restaurant in a charming Bauhaus building in South Tel Aviv that serves up traditional Ethiopian cuisine, but vegan. Sharing is the name of the game here, with no forks involved, so order a bunch of

dishes, rip off a piece of injera (Ethiopian sourdough bread made from teff, a glutenfree flour), scoop up your favorite stew and taste the flavors of this underrated food culture.

ARGENTO The Iraqi Shuk, Machane Yehudah Market, Jerusalem.

Under Rabbanut Jerusalem supervision.

ARGENTINIAN CHEF-MADE “FAST FOOD” IN THE HEART OF MACHANE YEHUDAH Argento is an Argentinian-focused, tiny eatery located in the “Iraqi Shuk” section of Machane Yehudah market.

Empanadas are their specialty, handmade and charcoalcooked to flaky perfection. Try the “Israeli,” which is made with lamb, peanuts, dates and ras el hanout (a Morrocan spice), for a true collaboration of food cultures in one snack-sized bite. They also have some excellent sandwiches (I recommend the “Chicharron”) and a chilled sangria that will cool you down on a hot Jerusalem summer day. Chef-made “fast food” never tasted so good.

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TOP 5

SUSHIYA

Yosef Trumpeldor Street 1, Jerusalem. Under Tzohar supervision.

HIPSTER SUSHI JOINT THAT GIVES JAPAN A RUN FOR ITS MONEY, LITERALLY For just $10, Sushiya takes it to the next level with their acclaimed rice bowls, topped with fresh, locally-sourced vegetables, traditional Japanese touches like pickled radish and glass noodles, tempura sweet potato, salmon served 3 ways: sashimi, teriyaki-grilled, or tempura. Plan accordingly - you’ll be lucky to get a table (or bar seat) in under 20 minutes, but the bold, fresh and unique flavors make it all worth the wait.

BOUREKAS

LEVINSKY Levinsky Street 46, Shuk Levinsky, Tel Aviv. Under Badatz Beit Yosef supervision.

THE TEL AVIV FAVORITE THAT MAKES FOR THE PERFECT ONTHE-GO LUNCH This is a family-run business that churns out handmade bourekas from morning to evening and is a must for your next visit to South Tel Aviv’s acclaimed open-air street market, Shuk Levinsky. There is always a line, but the wait is short, the service is fast and the bourekas are always served hot and steamy.

Choose your filling: cheese, spinach-cheese, potato, or spinach; take it with an egg on the side (optional, but essentially a must) and enjoy it alongside fresh grated tomatoes, spicy “schug” and homemade pickles.

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LEV

HARACHAV

Rabbi Akiva Street 10, Tel Aviv. Under Rabbanut Tel Aviv supervision.

GOURMET ISRAELI STREET FOOD THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANK Lev Harachav is a landmark Tel Aviv workers’ restaurant over 60 years old, catering to locals and tourists alike. This popular spot brings classic Israeli BBQ cuisine to the city’s quaint Kerem HaTeimanim neighborhood, just steps away from the Carmel Market. They have the best pargiyot skewers and their shawarma is unmatched. Take it in a pita for an on-thego snack, or sit down for a full meal with a never ending pita basket (I always order them slightly charred), fresh salads, tahini and hummus.

Gavi Nelson, born and raised in New York, made aliyah and joined the Israeli army in 2012. For the last 4 years he has been specializing in customized market tours at Machane Yehuda (Jerusalem); Shuk Levinsky (Tel Aviv); Shuk HaCarmel (Tel Aviv).

Gavi recently started selling freshly curated spices, dried fruit and Israeli goods straight from the shuk that can be ordered online (international shipping available) at www.etsy.com/shop/ EatingAroundIsrael. You can find more information about booking tours at his website www.eatingaroundisrael.com and follow his food-filled adventures on Instagram and Facebook @eatingaroundisrael. He can be reached through his website or at (929) 237-1690 or +972-58-531-5555.

MELTING POT CUISIN E

Two very different countries meet on a plate.

By Sina Mizrahi | Tiles provided by Lazar Marble

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YEMENITE

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've been cooking in my kitchen in Israel for three years but I grew up in an Israeli kitchen my whole life.

Growing up, our kitchen was filled with the tastes and flavors from my mother’s Libyan roots, melded with Moroccan foods from my father’s side, with subtle influences sprinkled in from other Middle Eastern cultures.

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MELTING POT CUISINE

M y parents were born and raised in

Israel and emigrated to Montreal in the late 80s. Although they left Israel, Israel never left them. My childhood home was permeated with Israeli culture, especially in the food. Israeli food was everything.

Eggs in the morning were always accompanied by a tomato-cucumber salad. Tuna was mixed with black olives and harissa. Za’atar and olive oil were sprinkled onto pita. Eggplants found self-expression in dozens of salatim.

I think of Israeli cooking as a conglomerate of disparate people resettling in a new homeland, sharing in the blessings of food as they acclimated to a new reality. Each person brought their unique dishes to share their heritage. Moroccan matbucha was placed next to Iraqi babaganoush.

Tahdig, kubbeh, kefta, hummus, jachnun, shawarma, t’bit, bachsh and so many more dishes found expression in the Israeli kitchen rather than exclusively in the tradition of their respective countries. The result is a rich culinary scene bursting with colors and flavors.

It’s a cuisine enhanced by a wide array

EACH PERSON BROUGHT THEIR UNIQUE DISHES TO SHARE THEIR HERITAGE.

of exotic spices and cooking techniques. During Israel’s infancy, the difference between cultures were stark and defined, but as the generations advanced, the cultural lines have blurred and integrated. In life, that would look like a Yemenite marrying an Ashkenazi. In food, that would look like adding shawarma spice to lacham bajine. That last one is actual, my husband’s aunt has adapted the Syrian meat mezze (appetizer) by removing the sweet tamarind paste and shifting the taste to the deeply savory aromatic flavors of shawarma spices. It’s the ultimate example of new Israeli cuisine. Being at the epicenter of rich culinary traditions means recreating foods with the countless ingredients available. It’s a new level of creativity and expression in the kitchen and the reason contemporary Israeli food has captivated palates across the world.

Sina Mizrahi is a photographer, recipe developer and blogger at www.gatheratable.com. Follow her on Instagram @sinamizrahi to get step-by-step dinner recipes, largely inspired by her Middle Eastern roots.

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MELTING POT CUISINE

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MELTING POT CUISINE

SALMON BULGUR SALAD Serves: 8 I made this salad during the thick of summer when nectarines were in season at the shuk. It’s vibrant and filling and stores well for a few days.

For the salmon: Cedar planks, soaked in water for 30 minutes (optional) 4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil

For the bulgur: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup bulgur, rinsed ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ cups boiling water

For the salad: 3-4 green onions, sliced ½ avocado, diced 1-2 nectarines, diced 1-2 Persian cucumbers, diced ½ bunch cilantro, finely chopped

For the dressing: 2 cloves garlic 2 green onions ½ bunch cilantro 5-8 mint leaves (optional) Juice and zest from 1 lemon 4-5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

For the salmon: Preheat oven or grill to 400°F. Place salmon on a baking sheet (if roasting) or cedar planks (if grilling) and season with salt and pepper.

Drizzle olive oil and rub well into the flesh. Roast or grill for 15-20 minutes, or until opaque and fish flakes easily with a fork. Remove from heat and allow to cool before flaking completely.

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For the bulgur: In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the bulgur and stir to coat in oil. Season with salt and pour in the boiling water.

Stir well and bring to a boil.

Cover and reduce to a simmer until cooked through, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and fluff with a fork. Allow to cool until ready to use.

For the dressing: In a small blender, process the garlic, green onions, cilantro, mint, lemon juice, zest and olive oil. Process until a paste forms. If too thick, add 1 tablespoon of water at a time until you reach the consistency that you like. I prefer a thicker dressing.

In a salad bowl, combine the bulgur, green onions, avocado, nectarines, cucumbers and cilantro.

Top with the flaked salmon.

Drizzle the dressing over the salad and lightly toss to combine.

T'BIT

Serves: 8

I first tasted t’bit at a Shabbat meal we shared with an Iraqi family in Palm Springs, CA. I was hooked. It’s incredibly flavorful and a lighter alternative to chamin (cholent) that also makes for a great weeknight dinner option.

The baharat spice elevates the chicken and rice to an otherworldly level. You’ll be pleasantly surprised and just as hooked as I was.

4-5 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, diced 7-8 (1½ pounds) chicken drumsticks 4 medium tomatoes, diced 2 cups brown rice, rinsed 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons baharat (recipe to the right)

1½ teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon hot paprika (use smoked or sweet paprika if spicy isn’t your thing) 3 cloves garlic 4 cups boiling water In a Dutch oven or large braiser, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until translucent, about 3-4 minutes.

Season the drumsticks with a sprinkle of salt and pepper and sear until golden, about 2-3 minutes per side. Add the diced tomatoes and cook until they soften and release their juices, about 4 minutes. Pour the rice around the chicken.

Season with tomato paste, baharat, paprika, salt and pepper. Add the whole garlic cloves and the boiling water and bring the mixture to a boil. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then cover and reduce to a simmer until the rice is cooked through, about 45-60 minutes.

Once the rice is cooked, heat your oven to broil and transfer the uncovered pot to the oven to crisp the top, about 3-4 minutes. Carefully remove from the oven and set aside until ready to serve.

To serve on Shabbat: skip the broil; before Shabbat, add 1-2 cups of warm water after all the water has been absorbed by the rice. Transfer to a crockpot on warm. Serve hot.

BAHARAT

Makes enough for 2 recipes of t'bit 3 tablespoons paprika 1 tablespoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon cumin 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground cardamom ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

CHRAIME Serves: 6

My mother alternates between Moroccan Fish and Chraime for Shabbat. Chraime is a fish cooked in a dense tomatobased sauce and seasoned with ground caraway. The ground caraway is the key and star of the dish and will surprise your taste buds.

8 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 heaping tablespoon smoked paprika 2 heaping tablespoons hot paprika 1 teaspoon ground caraway 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste Juice from ½ lemon 6 tablespoons canola oil 1 cup boiling water, divided 6 fillets (4-6 ounces each) of halibut, cod or tilapia 1 teaspoon cumin In a medium bowl, sprinkle the salt over the minced garlic and allow to sit for a few minutes. The salt cuts the sharpness of the garlic. Add the smoked paprika, spicy paprika, ground caraway, tomato paste and lemon juice.

Mix well. Heat a wide shallow pan over medium heat and add the oil. Carefully add the spice mixture to the pan and continuously stir into the oil as it reaches a soft boil. Add ½ cup boiling water.

Keep stirring for 4-5 minutes until the sauce thickens. Add another ½ cup boiling water and stir. Keep stirring until you get a rich, thick, glossy sauce. Gently add the fish, cover the pan and cook for another 10-15 minutes, or until fish is opaque and flaky.

Sprinkle cumin over the fish. Serve with lots of bread because this sauce is irresistible.

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R O AS T ED C A R R O TS WI T H T AH I NIH AR I S S A SA UC E Serves: 6 Harissa and tahini are my favorite condiments.

Combining them over carrots made sense because the inherent sweetness from the carrots contrasts the creamy, spicy drizzle perfectly.

1 bunch carrots, wellscrubbed* Extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper Fresh parsley, chopped pistachios and/or sliced chili peppers, for garnish

For the sauce: 1 tablespoon tahini 1 teaspoon harissa 2-3 tablespoons cold water A squeeze of lemon juice Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the carrots on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle the olive oil and toss with your hands to coat the carrots. Roast for 25-30 minutes, or until the carrots are fork tender and nicely caramelized.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the tahini and harissa.

Add the water 1 tablespoon at a time until you reach a nice creamy consistency. Add the lemon juice, stir and set aside.

To serve, place the carrots on a platter and drizzle the sauce over them. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serve immediately. *Carrots at peak freshness are what really make the recipe simple and delicious. The roasting will burst the flavors through, so use the best carrots you can find. During August, true baby carrots start making an appearance in many farmers markets and specialty stores and are perfect for the grill.

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T FUSION ATERING. SE AND C G STEAKHOU OUTSIDE CATERIN OM & O E R S IN HOU PRIVATE DINING & .

AVAILABLE ULL OUTDOOR DECK F H IT W OR 80 SEATING FTABLY. COMFOR

FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM AND STAY IN THE LOOP: * NEW HEAD CHEF ZACK HESS * NEW PARTY MENUS AVAILABLE * STAY TUNED FOR BIG NEWS COMING SOON!!

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3223 Quentin Rd

Plenty outdoor seating Stay Tuned for some Big news

718-627-8325

Brooklyn, NY 11234 USA www.tfusionsteakhouse.com Under the hashgacha of Rav Yisroel Gornish

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

ousse

iver M Chicken L

Executive Chef Elior Balbul

A start-up restaurant influenced by the start-up nation.

Alenbi The Modernization of Israeli Cuisine By Elisheva Taitz A decade or two ago, if an American were asked the question, “What is Israeli cuisine?” the answer would probably have been hummus, falafel, shawarma, pita. Aside from the modernization of various ethnic food available now in Israel (Ethiopian injera, Argentinian empanadas, Chinese dim sum), some of Israel’s ‘original’ classics have also seen a modern renaissance in Israel and abroad, while still being embedded with tradition, thanks to chefs and cookbook authors out of Israel like Einat Admony (owner of Balaboosta, Taïm, Kish Kash [NYC]), Mike Solomonov (owner of Zahav, Goldie Falafel, among others [PA]) and Yotam Ottolenghi (owner of Ottolenghi, among others [London]). While some of these eateries are not under kosher supervision, most are still rooted in tradition, bringing Israeli food out of the mundane and onto the plates of thousands who wouldn’t otherwise experience what new Israeli cuisine has to offer, in America and beyond.

Rib Steak Special

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MODERN AND TRADITIONAL

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Alenbi is located at 887 Nostrand Avenue Brooklyn, NY 11225 (347) 529-3739.

Follow Alenbi and Chef Elior on Instagram @alenbikitchen @chef_elior_balbul, respectively.

Alenbi is under the OK supervision.

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hef Elior Balbul and Juda Schlass are the pioneers behind Alenbi, one of the front-runners in upscale, kosher Israeli cuisine in America today. When the concept of this month’s Israel issue came to be, Shifra and Shlomo (publishers of Fleishigs) knew they had to feature Alenbi because of the brilliant interpretation of how Israeli and modern cooking meet on a plate. So on a rainy, humid night in June, we gathered with some fellow food personalities to dine on some of the most flavorful Israeli food on this side of the world (well, in my opinion at least). Located in Crown Heights, where you can find (legal) Judaic graffiti street art by up-and-coming artists, Alenbi’s mission is to elevate classic Israeli comfort food in a sophisticated, non-fussy way. All of the food is plated beautifully with intention and family-style ordering is encouraged. Alenbi is the complete Israeli experience and Elior and Juda are to thank for that.

Executive Chef Elior Balbul was raised in a small town near Tel Aviv to a Morrocan mother and Iraqi-Israeli father. His love for cooking, bold flavors and culture was born at a very young age, thanks to his parents and grandparents. Never classically trained, Elior started working in restaurants in Israel at the ripe age of 17. He trained with renowned Israeli chef Meir Adoni for a few years before becoming Executive Chef at one of Adoni’s restaurants, Blue Sky. Elior always vied to open a restaurant of his own in New York one day.

When Elior and Juda met in Israel a few years ago, it was a match made in culinary heaven. With Elior behind the stove and Juda behind the scenes, along with a talented management and design team (including Elior’s mother and Juda’s wife, food stylist Adina Schlass aka @the_chefs_wife_), magic was created; they opened their doors in November 2017. The name Alenbi was inspired by Rechov Allenby in Tel Aviv, a street that houses both old and new businesses, a mix of modern and traditional, exactly the vibe Juda and Elior were going for.

Most of Elior’s inspiration for Alenbi’s menu is inspired by childhood memories, like watching his grandfather sweat over an open fire making kebabs, or helping his mother make her famous chraime (Morrocan fish stew). Versions of these dishes have been on the menu, but there is always something elevated about it. Falafel Tartare is one of Alenbi’s most popular dishes and has been a mainstay on the menu since opening, where the best elements of a falafel are deconstructed and transformed into a satisfying appetizer. A delicious purée of herbs and fava beans, sumac onions, crispy chickpeas, amba coulis and tahini served with pita points makes this the best-dressed falafel you will ever eat. Fish like branzino, popular in Israel’s port-cities like Yaffo, Acco and Haifa, is elevated with ingredients like fingerling potatoes and arak-roasted fennel, accompanied by a bell pepper confit. Chicken liver mousse is elevated with silan, pistachios and Jerusalem ‘baigeleh’ toasts. Sous vide chicken is elevated with a za’atar crust and turmeric roasted baby carrots, served over

LIKE ISRAEL, THE FOOD AT ALENBI IS FEARLESS, DANGEROUS AND NOT AFRA Juda Schlass was born and raised in the Old City of Jerusalem, in a home overflowing with food, surrounded by guests and constant hospitality. Immersed in the food business from the time he was 17 years old, Juda always wanted to be involved in the kosher restaurant scene, determined to bring something unique to the table.

Israeli couscous. There is no hiding that this restaurant is deeply rooted in Israeli tradition, with deliciously creamy tahini flowing everywhere, even in the desserts.

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Jerusalem Bagel Smoky Eggplant Carpaccio

AID TO GET IN YOUR FACE. Falafel Tartare

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With an evolving menu based on the season or Elior’s mood, Alenbi’s general manager, Raz, explained that he creates names for the menu items like ‘Arrogant Rooster’ and ‘Meshuganeh Chicken’ in order to “lighten the mood and fill your stomach, without taking dining so seriously.” On that note, he encourages using the music, food and drink to guide your experience and embrace the ‘balagan’ atmosphere (loosely translated to mean ‘wild’). Aliza Salem (@theghettogourmet) shared, “The vibe is everything - the food, the music and especially the arak.”

The drinks were flowing, the food kept coming; we stayed until close to midnight, appreciating our surroundings, sharing plates, breaking bread and toasting to traditions, old and new.

Chef Einat Admony

Chef Elior Balbul with Shifra and Shlomo Klein of Fleishigs Magazine.

Souvlaki

“THE VIBE IS EVERYTHING - THE FOOD, THE MUSIC AND ESPECIALLY THE ARAK.”

At this epic “live article” dinner hosted

by Fleishigs, all of the guests thoroughly enjoyed the food, drink and conversation.

We were honored to be joined by Einat Admony (@chefeinat), whose view of kosher food is rooted in her religious upbringing in B’nei Brak. Dining at Alenbi changed her entire perspective on creative kosher dining. “I am impressed with where this is going,” she shared excitedly. Aside from the food, so much thought was put into the aesthetics of the space; wildly modern with classic Israeli touches like clay pots in the kitchen, which were brought in from Israel, along with other Israeli-inspired decor and music.

Cookbook author and blogger Chanie Apfelbaum (@busyinbrooklyn) commented, “I love that I can get an immersive Israeli experience right here in Brooklyn.” The seasonal drink menu also stands out, using fresh fruits and herbs like nana (mint), a staple in Israel, to create fresh and colorful accompaniments to the warm and comforting food. “The expert mixology and the overall atmosphere is an all-around good time,” said kosher food and travel blogger Dani Klein (@yeahthatskosher).

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Senia

Charred Cauliflower

AT THIS EPIC “LIVE ARTICLE” DINNER HOSTED BY FLEISHIGS, ALL OF THE GUESTS THOROUGHLY ENJOYED THE FOOD, DRINK AND CONVERSATION.

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RECIPES BY CHEF ELIOR BALBUL

SENIA Serves: 4 Senia is a Syrian dish of meat stewed in tomato sauce, typically baked in tahini. In this case, Chef Elior slowly braises lamb, then brings the dish together in stages to create a deeply flavored, stew-like dish, perfect for Friday night dinner or any holiday feast, served over pasta or rice. We added a pinch of baharat spice blend to the tomato sauce for a punch of Middle Eastern flavor, but you can omit for a milder sauce.

For the sauce: 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 6 tomatoes, diced 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon hot paprika 1 teaspoon baharat spice blend (optional) For the meat: 3 pounds boneless lamb breast (if using bone-in, use a 4 pound roast) 2 cups vegetable stock 1 medium onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, minced Kosher salt and pepper, to taste For the senia: 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon olive oil To serve: ⅓ cup toasted pine nuts ½ cup mixed herbs, such as parsley and mint, for garnish ½ cup prepared tahini, optional Toasted pitas

For the sauce: In a large pan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onions, tomatoes and spices; stir to combine.

Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until softened. Set aside.

For the meat: Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a Dutch oven or large pot, add lamb, vegetable stock, diced onions and minced garlic.

Season with salt and pepper.

Cover and cook for 5 hours.

For the senia: When the meat is ready, raise the oven to 450°F. This can also be done the next day.

Shred the lamb and place in a baking dish with the reserved tomato-onion mixture. Cook uncovered for 20 minutes.

While the meat is cooking, sauté shallots in olive oil until tender and lightly caramelized, about 15 minutes.

To serve: Top lamb with caramelized shallots, toasted pine nuts and herbs. Drizzle tahini on top and serve with toasted pita.

CHARRED HERB CAULIFLOWER Serves: 8 The cauliflower trend is still running its course, in part due to Israeli chefs like Elior who have been showcasing the beauty in this once humble ingredient. This is THE cauliflower technique you want to have in your back pocket. Boil.

Cool. Char. Serve warm with flavorful toppings.

WHAT’S NEXT? Always keeping their eyes on the future, the Alenbi team is currently working on their next venture, an Israeli street food concept coming to Crown Heights this fall. Upon returning from a recent food tour of Israel’s ever growing food scene, Elior and Juda will focus on Israeli street food, bringing the same quality, standards and ambiance of Alenbi at a more affordable, casual price point. You can look forward to seeing dishes like Charcoal Roasted Duck Shawarma, Lamb Arayes and much more.

2 heads cauliflower For the Arabic salsa: 1½ cups mixed herbs, such as parsley and cilantro, chopped ½ cup mint, chopped ½ red onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup vegetable or olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon salt For the tahini: 1 ½ cups raw tahini 2 cups ice water Core the cauliflower heads and rinse under warm water.

Blanch in a pot of boiling

water for 8 minutes. Meanwhile, add herbs, onion and garlic to a bowl with oil, vinegar and salt; mix to combine.

When the cauliflower is done boiling, drain and immediately shock in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process.

Add raw tahini to a food processor and slowly add the ice water to thin it out.

Turn oven to a high broil.

Drizzle cauliflower with oil and place under the broiler for 5-7 minutes, until slightly charred.

Top charred cauliflower with salsa and tahini.

Elisheva Taitz is a wife and mother to 3 children, full-time Payroll/HR Manager by day, food writer and recipe developer by night Most recently, Elisheva joined the Fleishigs team as editor. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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Goo d kabo bs wi ll gli sten , o oze, crack l e and pop.

Shifra’s Note: The first time I ordered kabobs in an Israeli restaurant, I was initially disappointed. As an American, I expected juicy, grilled steak on a skewer. What I got was (from appearances only) a burger on a stick. I was told that what I had in front of me was a kofta kabob (made of ground meat), which is the most common type of meat kabob you will find in Israel. I was wonderfully surprised. The meat was tender, juicy and packed with flavor. The transition from disappointment to unexpected enjoyment made the experience of eating kofta kabobs for the first time something I’ll never forget.

During our photo shoot, our editor (and sometimes recipe developer) Elisheva generously offered to share her technique for juicy ground beef kofta. While on a roll, she then created the marinade for the pargiyot (boneless, skinless chicken thighs), another Israeli classic, on the fly.

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1 pound ground beef or lamb ¼ cup finely minced parsley, cilantro or mint 1 small onion, grated 1 tablespoon mayonnaise 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon turmeric (or hawaij) ½ teaspoon smoked paprika

eef Kofta Kabobs

Serves: 8

Almost 10 years ago, I picked up one of my favorite and most used cooking hacks from my friend Fagie (@thegushgourmet).

A tablespoon of mayonnaise per pound of ground meat mixture works wonders for creating super moist burgers, meatballs, meatloaf, kofta - the sky’s the limit. It’s not traditional, but it’s magic. Coupled with my mom’s trick of grating an onion with its juice directly into the meat, I expect that this will be the juiciest meat you will ever grill! Don’t let the cinnamon in the mixture scare you, it lends a warm undertone that you can’t get anywhere else. You can use beef or lamb here, either works.

Combine all ingredients together.

Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours until ready to use. Soak bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes prior to grilling.

Form kabobs by shaping them into 6-8 patties and working the meat around each skewer to form an oblong shape. Grill immediately over medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes per side.

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umac Herb Kabobs

Serves: 4

Ever since my brother Gavi (@eatingaroundisrael) introduced me to sumac 5 years ago, I’ve been hooked.

There’s truly nothing like

sumac straight from the shuk - the aroma and flavor are unmatchable. He brought me some vacuum packed sumac on his most recent trip to America and I’ve been using it non-stop; on avocado toast, sprinkled over smoked salmon and especially in marinades.

Sumac is known for its citrusy, floral flavor and pairs perfectly with lemon. However, you don’t want to marinate chicken in lemon juice, because the acid breaks down the chicken and begins to “cook” it. Here I brush some of the marinade on the cut sides of the lemon, grill it and then squeeze the juice over the grilled chicken. The flavor of the grilled lemon will completely amplify the dish.

This marinade works wonderfully with chunks of chuck or rib steak as well. ¼ cup sumac 1 lemon, zested (reserve the lemon for grilling) ¼ cup finely minced fresh herbs (I prefer a combination of parsley, mint and cilantro), plus more for garnish 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¾ cup olive oil 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot)

If skewering, soak some bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes before grilling.

In the meantime, combine the sumac, lemon zest, herbs, salt and olive oil in a bowl. Add the pargiyot; mix to combine and let marinate in the fridge for 1 hour. When ready to grill, preheat the grill to medium-high heat and thread the pargiyot onto skewers. Cut the lemon in half and brush the cut sides with some of the remaining marinade.

Grill the skewers for 6 minutes per side and the lemons just until golden.

When the chicken is cooked through, squeeze the grilled lemons over the chicken. Garnish with additional herbs.

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egetable Kabobs

Serves: 4

8 small radishes 1 kohlrabi, cubed 1 turnip, cubed ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon cumin

Combine all ingredients together.

Skewer vegetables and grill on medium heat for 8 minutes per side.

Serve hot or warm.

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n honor of the Israel issue, we knew we had to feature turkey. Despite its seemingly inappropriate time (turkey is so November), Israelis consume the most turkey worldwide.

According to market research firm IndexBox, Israelis eat 25.4 pounds of turkey annually and Americans put away 17.5 pounds of the mouthwatering fowl each year. Turkey became a popular choice in Israel because of its cheap price and is most commonly served in the form of shawarma (see pg. 68) and schnitzel (see pg. 66).

Photography

by Schneur Menaker

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dark meat of the bird, are generally more moist and flavorful than the breast.

Since those muscles tend to get more exercise, especially in free-range pastureraised birds, they’ll benefit from longer, lower cooking (just like a brisket) at 325°F; the muscle tissues will relax and result in tender, juicy, flavorful results.

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The best way to tell if your turkey is done is by using a meat thermometer. Pasture-raised birds cook quickly since they are much leaner than conventional birds and the flesh may still be pink even if it is done – don’t risk overcooking! Use a thermometer!

Turkey thighs and legs, the

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As with chicken, turkeys have both “white meat” and “dark meat.” The white meat of the turkey breast is quite lean; since much of the flavors we enjoy in meats actually come from the fat, turkey breasts are relatively mild. A good quality, pasture-raised bird will have more flavor and be juicier than a conventional bird, but in either case, overcooked turkey breast is awful. Cook yours to 165°F and no more. If you’re cooking a whole bird, this might mean that you put foil over the breast to keep it from overcooking while you wait for the dark meat to finish. A more reliable way to achieve the desired temperature is to remove the bird from the oven, carve off the legs and return them to the oven to finish cooking.

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But you shouldn’t wait a whole year to enjoy this delicious, versatile protein. We love to roast a halfturkey for Shabbat dinner (at 5-6 pounds, it’s like roasting a very large chicken) and we enjoy turkey shawarma (cooked sous vide, in the oven, or on the grill) made with boneless turkey breast or thigh.

Although turkey can have a reputation for being “dry” or “bland,” as with all meats, quality birds that are raised well have a gentle, nutty flavor, juicy flesh and offer the home cook plenty of options for delicious meals.

Turkey gizzards can be slow-cooked to make flavorful gravy or soup. They’re koshered separately, so before preparing, give them a quick soak in cold water to remove some of the extra salt.

Turkey wings and legs can be smoked or cooked sous vide, then seared; the long, slow cooking helps the collagen break down and the crisp skin, from either the prolonged exposure in the smoker or a quick sear on the grill, brings flavor and crunch.

Turkey necks, bones and the carcass from a whole roasted turkey are all great to use for soup; my mother adds lentils to her incredible turkey soup, which she cooks in the Crock Pot after Thanksgiving. If you want to make turkey sausage at home, a mix of white and dark meat, plus extra schmaltz from turkey or chicken skin with a little garlic and fennel will be delicious.

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TRUE STORY

BUTCHER'S CUT

At Grow & Behold, we are often explaining why customers should pay more for products that are raised outdoors: it tastes better, it’s better for the animals, better for the environment and healthier for everyone (consumer, farmer, animal). But one year we needed to work with a new turkey grower; we found a family farm that had been raising turkeys for many decades inside a lovely barn, surrounded by great pasture land.

We asked them if they could try getting the turkeys outside. We explained to the farmer that we had ‘city folks’ who wanted to buy turkeys raised outdoors on pasture and that if he set up movable fencing and moved the feeders outdoors, the birds would follow. He did as we suggested and a few weeks later we got a phone call. He told us, “The birds are so happy! They look so cute, running around out there like that. We’ve never done this before. This is great.” We are proud of our role with both consumers and farmers alike to produce delicious meats, raised outdoors on pasture, with no hormones or antibiotics – and sometimes, it’s not just the customers who are pleasantly surprised with the results!

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SOAK AWAY 62

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TO BRINE OR NOT TO BRINE?

BY SHIFRA KLEIN Whether to brine poultry is a constant, unsettled debate.

Brining involves soaking a bird for hours in a salt-sugar solution.

The process creates tender and juicy results, unreplicated by any other technique out there. Roasting a turkey correctly can also yield juicy results and since kosher meat goes through a salting process during kashering, the fear of the brine is real. Too salty a turkey is never ideal.

After cooking a few turkeys these past few months, I started leaning towards the brine. The results were substantially juicier and brining has become my insurance policy when cooking turkey.

In honor of our Israel issue, I added za’atar and garlic into the brine and used za’atar to glaze the turkey as well. To accomodate a kosher turkey, which by nature is saltier, I used less salt than traditional recipes would typically call for.

The recipe works with a whole turkey, half turkey or turkey roast.

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Juicy not dry.

BRINED TURKEY

BUTCHER'S CUT

In place of brining a whole 15 pound bird, you can halve the brine amount and brine half a turkey or a turkey roast.

Serves: 8 1 whole turkey 3 cups apple cider 2 cups brown sugar ½ cup kosher salt 3 tablespoons black peppercorns 5 whole bay leaves 5 cloves garlic, minced 4 tablespoons za’atar, divided Peel of three large lemons, in large strips ¹⁄³ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons honey Combine 2 gallons cold water with the apple cider, brown sugar, salt, peppercorns, bay leaves, garlic, 2 tablespoons za’atar and lemon peels in a large pot or plastic basin. Stir until the salt and sugar dissolve.

At this point you need to cool the

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brine. This is crucial. You do not want the turkey to be submerged in warm liquid. It will ruin the texture and can potentially cause bacteria to build. You can cool the brine by placing it in the fridge for 1-2 hours or by adding some ice to the liquid.

Place the raw turkey into the chilled brine solution, then refrigerate for 16-24 hours.

When ready to roast or grill the turkey, remove from the brine. Submerge the turkey into a pot or sink of fresh, cold water. Allow to sit in clean water for 15 minutes to remove excess salt from the outside.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

In the meantime, combine oil, remaining za’atar and honey in a bowl. Set aside.

Remove turkey from the clean water, pat dry and place in a roasting pan. Lightly cover turkey and roast for 60 minutes. Uncover and brush some of the za’atar oil over the turkey. Cook for an additional 30 minutes. Brush za’atar oil over turkey again and check temperature.

Continue cooking until turkey reaches 165°F. Remove from oven and allow to sit for about 15-20 minutes before slicing into turkey, so juices redistribute.

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TURKEY SCHNITZEL Serves: 8 This is the crispiest, most delicious schnitzel I’ve yet to make. The smoked paprika and barbecue snack in the dredge add great flavor and texture. The technique we used of marinating the cutlets in egg and skipping the flour in the dredging process is inspired by a technique shared by brilliant Israeli chef and restaurateur Michael Solomonov in his latest cookbook, Israeli Soul.

Schnitzel that’s irresistible. It's crunch time.

2 pounds boneless, skinless turkey or chicken breast cutlets 4 eggs, beaten 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon cumin 2 cups panko bread crumbs 3 tablespoons sesame seeds 1 cup barbecue flavored snack, crushed (like Super Snacks or Bissli) Oil, for frying Pound out turkey or chicken in between 2 pieces of parchment paper as thin as possible without tearing the flesh.

Beat eggs in a large dish; add the smoked paprika, salt, pepper and cumin. Add chicken, cover and allow to marinate in the fridge for 4-24 hours.

Combine the panko, sesame seeds and crushed snack and dip cutlets into the mixture, coating both sides well.

Heat 2 inches of oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the cutlets and fry 3-4 minutes per side.

Place on a wire rack over a sheet pan and immediately sprinkle the hot schnitzel with a bit of kosher salt.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

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SOUS VIDE

Shawarma: a dish so great that after saving NYC from invasion and destruction, the Avengers sat down to enjoy some. It’s one of the most iconic Mediterranean dishes, but one most home cooks shy away from making because of the specialized equipment required. To keep the turkey meat moist, we used the sous vide and then seared it to replicate the slow-cooked, open-fire rotisserie flavor and texture of traditional shawarma.

Serves: 6

For the Sous Vide Turkey: 1½-2 pounds boneless turkey breast, thighs, or legs 2½ teaspoons kosher salt

Shawarma Spice Blend: 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground black pepper 2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons paprika 2 teaspoons granulated garlic 2 teaspoons ground cardamom 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground allspice 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Bringing it all together: 1½ tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, thinly sliced

Turkey Temperature Breakdown: For boneless white meat turkey, cook in the sous vide at 140°F for 4 hours. For bone-in dark meat turkey, cook in the sous vide at 148°F for 6-8 hours.

Salt Science: The salt in the bag will act as a dry cure, which will initially pull some moisture out. Then, over time, as the salt is absorbed into the meat, it will start absorbing the moisture back in and less will be expelled during the cooking process. We have made it both ways and the version without salt was really good as well. Adding the salt provided an extra level of moisture.

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For the Turkey:

Season the turkey meat with the salt and seal in a bag for the sous vide. (It can all go into one bag as long as the turkey does not overlap. If you don’t have big enough bags, use multiple bags.) Let the turkey "marinate" in the fridge for 3-24 hours. When ready, set your sous vide to 148°F. Once the water comes to temperature, place the turkey into the water and let it bathe for 6-8 hours; during this time the meat will cook and become nice and soft.

Shawarma Spice Blend:

In the meantime, prepare the spice blend by combining all the spices together. (The quantity will yield more than what is needed for this recipe, but if kept air-tight, it will last a good 6 months in the pantry.) When the turkey is ready, heat a cast iron skillet over high heat (don’t put oil in yet because it will start to smoke). Take the turkey out of the sous vide, shock the bags in cold water for 30 seconds, remove the turkey from the bags and pat dry.

Bringing it all together:

Slice the turkey into thin slices.

Add the sliced turkey and onion to a large bowl with 1 ½ tablespoons of oil and 1 tablespoon of the spice blend, tossing to coat. Fry the seasoned turkey for a few minutes, constantly moving it. (Remember: the turkey is fully cooked, this is just to sear and crisp the edges.) Enjoy the turkey in a warm pita or laffa, served with hummus, schug, tahini and Israeli salad (or whatever fixings you prefer).

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The Other Side of the Cork:

Psâgot Winery

History Makes History Again

BY YAEL E. GELLER, MPH

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sâgot Winery is certainly a household name for anyone who drinks kosher wine. There is a remarkable range of wines in the portfolio that appeal to every palate and price point. The winery, which lays outside Ramallah and North of Jerusalem, produces more than 350,000 bottles of wine annually, achieving tremendous growth regardless of calls to boycott the winery, courtesy of the BDS movement. Recently, the prestigious Decanter Magazine rated Psâgot Peak 2016 with a gold medal and 91 points! If that doesn’t speak for the success of the winery, surely a visit to the winery to pop a few bottles with CEO Yaakov Berg and head winemaker Ya’acov Oryah will convince any non-believer. There are some very exciting things in the works at Psâgot for experienced and novice wine lovers alike. Let’s delve

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a bit into the background of the winery before we dive in for some insider info on the forthcoming projects in the works at Psâgot.

Ya’acov Oryah, head winemaker at Psâgot, has his own history in the winemaking world. He joined Psâgot full time as head winemaker extraordinaire in 2014. I have to brag that I’ve known about Ya’acov almost my entire life, having known his uncles and cousins and crossing paths many years before he made his mark in the Israeli wine industry. Ya’acov has had many small scale productions in the past; as he refers to it, Psâgot is his first orchestra and it is completely different than playing a small-scale jazz gig as he was used to. Working as head winemaker for a winery of Psâgot’s magnitude is a completely different ballgame. Yaacov is extremely critical of his

work and yet he continues to succeed, producing more impressive wines with each passing vintage.

Most impressively, the white wine program at Psâgot continues to expand. White wine is a must for Ya’acov Oryah, as well as his specialty. In addition to the release of 2 new white varieties, Chardonnay and Viognier, we have had the honor to taste a new and exciting wine, a bone dry Gewürztraminer. This type of grape is not so common in Israel and certainly not in a dry form. It is usually semi dry, but this wine is absolutely magnificent with its floral notes. Dare I say the most enjoyable Gewürztraminer I can remember?

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P R OV I D E D BY R OYA L W I N E C O R P.

for years and develop into a completely different wine. If you intend to have some fun, you should absolutely pop a white at your Shabbos table this week, or better yet- tonight for dinner. It is highly recommended by Ya’acov to give extra thought to the food pairings with white wines. A nice white can accompany some fish and chips with a fresh salsa verde on top. White also pairs beautifully with Veal Milanese or even some lemony grilled chicken. Yaacov’s approach is as simple as he explains. “This is not a beverage to consume alongside your meal, but a drink that should be in a dialogue with the dish. If you do so, you will see the versatility of white wine, which pairs with many more dishes than reds and can give us a new kind of enjoyment of wine altogether.” If you are ready to have fun, then white wines are cut out for the task.

is not utilized, it is considered useless; you have to know how to work with it to allow its expression in the wine. If you succeed, your wine will have an unmatched advantage. The same is true for a warm Mediterranean climate.

It is not good or bad, it is how you work with it and what you do with it that leads to the success of the wine.

They can be lean or heavy, from bone dry, all the way to sweet and everything in between. They can be oaked and un-oaked, still or sparkling, loaded (or restrained) with minerality, atop notes of fruitiness or spiciness. This incredible spectrum of styles gives us many options to have some serious fun in the kitchen as well as at the table.

We can look forward to several new projects and wine varieties in the near future from Psâgot. In 2019, Psâgot will start to yield fruit from a newly planted Sauvignon Blanc vineyard, a very exciting endeavor at the hands of Ya’acov Oryah. Additionally, Psâgot added a traditional sparkling wine program in 2014, which is something very unique to an Israeli winery. There is a new Pinot Noir vineyard which will start to yield fruit in 2019, specifically designated for this program. I had the pleasure of visiting Psâgot back in 2016 and was able to taste a very early sample of the divine sparkler. Every time I recall that trip, my mouth waters for the lovely bubbly mouthfeel of this wine. It was nowhere near ready at the time, so we look forward to its release in the next few years.

Psâgot’s vineyards are located in the Binyamin region, which is crucial for the terroir of Psâgot wines. Terroir refers to the makeup of the soil or land, as well as the climate that the vineyards are planted on.

Terroir can give a lot of character to different grapes, but if not treated and cared for properly, the terroir can be expressed in a negative light, highlighting the wrong characteristics of grape varietals. Some philosophies were shared with me about how Psâgot approaches the terroir. It is considered an ‘ingredient’ in wine that cannot be replaced. However, it cannot be labeled good or bad as it is the only key to a wine’s uniqueness. When terroir

Psâgot’s wines are versatile and a beautiful expression of what Israeli wine can accomplish with the care and expertise of a brilliant team, attention to terroir and good fruits. They are truly achieving the full expression of what the great land of Israel has to offer.

Psâgot winery has everything it needs to produce wines that are beloved by kosher and non-kosher consumers alike, from the expertise of Yaakov Berg, a state of the art beautiful facility with a visitors center and Ya’acov Oryah’s creativity and love for a great wine experiment. I’ll drink to that any day! L’chaim!

The visitor’s center is located in Kochav Yaakov, about 15 minutes from Jerusalem.

You can reach the winery via phone at 052-771-0220 or via email at events@binyamin.co.il. The winery is a beautiful location to host a simcha like a wedding, Bar/Bat Mitzvah or Siyum.

The Symbol of the Coin Psâgot Winery was founded by Na’ama and Yaakov Berg in the village of Psâgot, right outside the perimeter of Jerusalem in 2003. The Bergs had been growing and selling grapes in this region since 1998 and eventually decided the next step was for them to build their own winery. If you look closely at the bottles of wines produced by Psâgot, you will notice a very unique coin or symbol of a coin on the label. This ancient looking coin certainly gives Psâgot a lot of curb appeal, but the story that accompanies the coin is remarkable in and of itself. When the Bergs started construction for their new winery, the excavation of the land set aside to house the winery revealed a very unique asset. Under the winery was a cave with a wine press, which was estimated to be around 2,500 years old! This confirmed that this exact spot had been used for winemaking and grape growing for many generations. While exploring the cave during the early years of the winery, Yaakov discovered an ancient coin. The coin was dated back to 73–66 BC, a time period referred to as the ‘Great Revolt.’

The coin was inscribed with the words “For Freedom of Zion” and adorned with a vine leaf, while the back face read, ‘Year Two,’ alongside an image of a container known as an amphora, which was used for wine storage in ancient times. This symbol is as important now in modern times as it was during the times of the revolt, as many boycott and rally against the very existence of Israel. A replica or image of the coin that was found in the cave embellishes all of the bottles produced at Psâgot. The winery has grown by leaps and bounds since the cave and coin discovery and has since moved its operation to a more expansive campus in Kochav Yaakov, just south of the original winery.

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QPR + ISRAELI WINES + SUMMER QPR (quality-to-price-ratio) refers to wines that taste of higher quality than their price point would

suggest. When it comes to Israeli wines, there are thankfully a lot of incredible ones to try. The following

OR HAGANUZ AMUKA BLANC BLEND 2018

BY GABRIEL GELLER

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This blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Chardonnay is like summer in a bottle. Light to medium in body with vibrant acidity, this wine boasts notes of lemon, kiwi, gooseberries and lime. Truly eye-opening. Perfect with salmon sashimi, tuna tartare and BBQ wings. $17.99

MT. TABOR ROSÉ 2018

are wines great for summer and barbecue season, but are also of great value and wonderful quality.

A mouthful of red berries and blood orange with hints of sweet mint, this is the ultimate rosĂŠ this summer, combining summer fruits, refreshing acidity and affordability under $15. Drink it while grilling those hot dogs and steaks, with or without snacking on pickles, chips or salads at the same time. $14.99

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Nearly every vintage of this wine is a hit. Bursting with notes of white grapefruit, gooseberries and green apples, with mouthwatering acidity and earthy minerals.

Great on its own, or with a dark meat turkey roast. $19.99

VITKIN RED ISRAELI JOURNEY 2017

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot come together to create a medium to full-bodied wine with an elegant and velvety texture, as well as notes of dark berries, oak, tobacco and black pepper. A Bordeaux style blend with an Israeli soul, this is a classic yet inexpensive wine to complement a ribeye steak or smoked brisket. Perfect if you plan on hosting a large charity fundraiser in your backyard this summer. $21.99

TABOR ADAMA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018

TEPERBERG INSPIRE MERITAGE 2017

L'CHAIM

This flavorful Mediterranean blend is an amazing companion to grilled meat and salmon, as well as with shawarma, hummus and falafel.

Notes of blackberries, raspberries and roasted herbs on the long finish. $21.99

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INTERVIEW

N

urit Silverwater

MANAGER OF THE INBAL HOTEL The Inbal Hotel is a Jerusalem staple. Originally known as the Laromme, the hotel was designed by architect Yaakov Rechter and opened in 1982 on a tract of land adjacent to Liberty Bell Park. The land was owned by one of the churches in Jerusalem and was leased by the Jerusalem Municipality. It is unique in that it is a family-run hotel that provides a luxurious, high-end experience, while still maintaining a warm sense of connection with guests. Centrally located, the Inbal is a 25 minute walk to the Kotel and only a 5 minute walk to Jerusalem’s First Station.

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How many years have you been here at the Inbal? I have been at the Inbal for 25 years.

Wow! That is a long time. Yes it is, but I love what I do and love working here. The owners really care about the hotel and I love that about the Inbal. There is a constant effort to keep the highest standards in food, service and hotel amenities. It makes working here very fulfilling and a positive experience.

Tell me more about how the Inbal maintains its standards. We actually recently added a new wing to the hotel with magnificent, super large guest rooms with balconies that provide unbelievable views of the Old City and beyond. Our classic rooms are also a great option and many have amazing views and balconies as well. We also offer complimentary on-site parking- something that is rare to the hotel scene in Jerusalem.

There is something so charming about this hotel. I noticed as we are walking throughout the hotel that you are on a first name basis with the guests and remember small details about them as well. Once guests visit here, they tend to come back.

We really form a connection and care about our guests and their families. We are a very family-friendly hotel and connecting with our guests is the highlight of my day.

What family-friendly features do you have?

We have an Olympic-size pool, open year round. During the winter months, we put a tent up around the pool and it is kept heated and warm. We also have activity rooms for every age and stage from toddlers to teens.

This is something we really take pride in. We have a concierge ready to help with anything you may need, from taxis and tours to doctor calls. Our concierge staff are famous for giving guests “inside information” about how to get the most out of the hotel and how to maximize your Jerusalem experience. With their guidance regarding the best restaurants, entertainment spots and other activities and events, our guests fully enjoy the many cultural, historical and religious sites Jerusalem has to offer.

What about the adults? We have a full service spa on hand, with separate lockers and services for men and women, including steam rooms. Our fitness room is open 24/7 and is top-of-the-line. We also have an awesome soup bar in our lobby during the winter months that is worth coming to even if you are not a guest at the inbal. For a fee, you can enjoy the overall vibe of the hotel and dine on an endless, satisfying soup buffet with all the toppings you need.

As representatives of Fleishigs magazine, we need to hear a little bit more about the food. Well, there truly is a lot to share. Let’s start with breakfast. Breakfast at the Inbal is a full and varied buffet. The breakfast menu includes Israeli cheeses and yogurts, an abundance of seasonal fruits, savory salads, fresh vegetables, several types of fish, eggs cooked à la minute and a full choice of muffins, pastries and delicious breads baked on-site.

We also have an incredible restaurant called 02. Named for Jerusalem’s area code, 02 offers individual, plated entrées that include popular cuts of steak, meat skewers and other delicacies. The restaurant concept and menu were selected and developed with the cooperation of the exquisite culinary teams of Jerusalem’s well-known Mona Restaurant and Anna Italian Café – under the guidance of renowned chefs Moshiko Gamlieli, Itamar Navon and Inbal’s own Executive Chef Nir Elkayam.

During Shabbat, we offer what guests consider the best Shabbat meal in all of Jerusalem. You can reserve a table and enjoy our famous Friday night and Shabbat buffet meals.

What is your favorite part of working in the hotel? I love to see family celebrations.

We have a one-of-a-kind courtyard that is a popular site for weddings and each wedding is so special. Families come to celebrate bar and bat mitzvot and even choose the Inbal for their family reunions or vacations. I love to see memories being made in the heart of Jerusalem.

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Israeli Hot Dog Bar 76

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BY SHIFRA KLEIN

Boil them? Bake them? Grill them?

No matter how you decide to cook them, a hot dog in a bun is a surprising blank canvas for almost anything. Inspired by Israeli ingredients we had on hand during the making of the Israel issue, I compiled quite a few combos and topping ideas.

These are my favorite 5.

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PAGE HEADER

Israeli Hot Dog Bar:

When Cultures Collide

Schug Mustard Makes: 1 cup Schug is the ultimate Israeli hot sauce and comes in many forms. Some recipes are made with dried peppers, oil and spices and others combine a ton of fresh hot peppers and herbs puréed with oil and lemon juice. Schug is to falafel what mustard is to hot dogs. I decided to combine them both to create the best mustard I’ve yet to try.

1 cup mustard (any type, I used classic yellow) 1-2 tablespoons store bought schug Stir together to combine.

Cover and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Fun serving idea: Slice into an Israeli pickle and stuff a hot dog inside. Place in a bun slathered with schug mustard.

Hawaij Sauerkraut Makes: 2 cups I like to serve this hot dog with pomegranate seeds, which adds the perfect crunch of sweetness to the tangy sauerkraut.

2 cups sauerkraut 2 teaspoons hawaij seasoning Combine.

Cover and store in the fridge for up to a month.

Sweet Chili Slaw Makes: about 4 cups Sweet chili sauce has become a recent Israeli staple. Combined with a cool, crunchy slaw, this is what fusion is all about.

1 small head green cabbage 1 carrot, shredded 3 scallions, thinly sliced ⅔ cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons sweet chili sauce 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds Combine all ingredients together.

Cover and store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Turnip Pickles Makes: 2 cups 1 cup vinegar ½ cup sugar 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 cup water 1 beet, thinly sliced 2 cups chopped turnips or radishes Heat vinegar, sugar, salt and water in a medium pot, stirring just until the sugar and salt dissolve.

Place sliced beets at the bottom of a glass jar.

Top with chopped turnips.

Pour liquid over the vegetables, making sure they are fully covered with brine.

Allow to come to room temperature.

Cover and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

Amba Mayo Makes: 1 ½ cups 1¼ cups mayonnaise ¼ cup amba sauce 1 teaspoon sugar Stir all the ingredients together to combine.

Cover and store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Serve with fried eggplant, hard boiled eggs and chopped pickles.

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Best Way to Cook a Hot Dog: To find out we asked the experts on everything hot dogs, Mann Sales Co., who are responsible for Meal Mart's hot dog campaigns and have eaten their fair share of hot dogs. The general consensus was conclusive. Grill classic Meal Mart hot dogs on medium-high heat until glistening and slightly charred. w w w.f leishigs.com

RECIPE INDEX

STARTERS/SALADS 31 Grilled Chicken and Corn Salad 22 Watermelon Salad

 HAWAIJ

34 Kubaneh

Hawaij is a unique, curry-esque Yemenite spice blend with notes of turmeric, cumin and cardamom; it is a wonderful addition to soups or stews and is beyond incredible on roasted vegetables, like cauliflower and potatoes.

78 Sweet Chili Slaw

FISH 46 Chraime 46 Salmon Bulgur Salad

 BAHARAT

MEAT MAINS 9

American Arayes

Baharat is a warm spice blend popular in Turkish and Syrian cuisine, with notes of allspice and cloves. Baharat is used in savory stews and is a popular secret ingredient to cholent. In the markets of Israel, we have seen it labeled it as “hamim (cholent) spice.” See page 46 for our recipe.

55 Senia 57 Beef Kofta Kabobs

CHICKEN & TURKEY 31 Grilled Chicken 46 T’bit 57 Sumac Herb Kabobs 64 Brined Turkey

 SHAWARMA

66 Turkey Schnitzel

VEGETABLES 20 Savory Summer Vegetable Galette 47 Roasted Carrots with Tahini Harissa Sauce 55 Charred Herb Cauliflower 57 Vegetable Kabobs

DRINKS/CONDIMENTS/EXTRAS 31 Avocado Za’atar Green Goddess Dressing 46 Baharat Spice Blend 46 Herby Dressing 47 Tahini Harissa Sauce 68 Shawarma Spice Blend 78 Schug Mustard 78 Hawaij Sauerkraut 78 Amba Mayo 78 Pickled Turnips 82 Limonana

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Israeli Spice Blends: A Primer

68 Sous Vide Turkey Shawarma Spices that were once unheard of are becoming staples in the homecook’s pantry.

Matis Soffer, CEO of Quality Frozen Foods, shares how he has personally seen the growth in Israeli spices, za’atar in particular.

“People are adding it to everything, from pizza to pasta to salads.

Sales of za’atar are extremely strong.

We do very well with the Pereg za’atar,” he shares.

“Actually, a lot of the trending products that we sell, like Wonder Mills flours, are actually made in Israel.”

There are many variations of this unique spice blend that is essential in creating one of the most popular foods Israel has to offer. See pg. 68 for an incredible homemade version that utilizes coriander, black pepper, cumin and more.

 ZA’ATAR Za’atar is a spice blend showcasing hyssop, an actual herb similar in flavor to thyme and oregano; it is dried and combined with various spices like sumac and toasted sesame seeds to make a flavorful blend that is incomparable to anything else.

 NIGELLA SEEDS These seeds pack a flavorful punch.

Crucial in Yemenite breads like kubaneh (pg. 34), nigella seeds add a slight onion flavor, making it a delicious topping to challah or deli rolls.

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DRINK UP!

LIMONANA

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

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Limonana is the standard drink offered up in most Israeli restaurants for good reason. It celebrates one of Israel’s basic herbs, nana aka mint, by blending it together with lemon juice, ice and simple syrup; a most refreshing combination, especially for the summer.

You can amp it up by adding a tablespoon of pomegranate molasses and pomegranate seeds before serving. You can also use a combination of lemon and lime juice, or add some lemon-thyme to the mix for a mysterious, gourmet touch.

Serves: 4

1 cup sugar 1 cup water 1 cup lemon juice 3½ cups ice 1 cup fresh mint leaves Lemon wedges and mint sprigs for garnish

In a small saucepan, prepare the simple syrup; combine the sugar and water over medium heat, whisking until sugar dissolves. Let the syrup cool to room temperature.

In a blender, combine the simple syrup, lemon juice, ice and fresh mint leaves.

Add additional water if necessary to achieve desired consistency.

Pulse until slushy.

Pour into cold glasses and garnish with sprigs of mint, if desired.

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