M E D I U M D O N E
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ISSUE
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YOUR CHALLAH BRINGS ALL THE BOYS TO THE TISH.
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YOU KNEAD ME: BASIC NO-KNEAD DOUGH WITH CHEF ISAAC.
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KNOW WHEN TO ROLL EM’ & WHEN TO FOLD EM’: BETTER WAY TO BABKA.
USA $5.99 / Canada $8.99 / UK £5 Australia $9 / SA R90 / Israel 25
CONTENTS
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EDITOR'S LETTER
INTERVIEW Chef Yos Schwartz
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BAKING WITH TAHINI
Transforming the notably savory ingredient into one of the best desserts, period.
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SOUTH BEACH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL DOES SHABBOS
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The future of Friday night dinner is served.
TRAVEL: SOUTH BEACH
TOP 5 FOOD DESTINATIONS Kosher Guru shares his favorite pastries.
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MASTER PAREVE BAKING WITH PAULA SHOYER
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MARGARINE, OR MARGA-NISHT? A pareve food friend or foe?
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COOKBOOK REVIEW Food You Want For The Life You Crave by Nealy Fischer
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COOKIE DOUGH: 4 WAYS There are so many ways for the cookie to crumble.
A SHAVUOS SPREAD WITH ITALIAN HERITAGE
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The ultimate Shavuos inspiration from a legendary dinner at Noi Due Carne.
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CULINARY SCHOOL: SAVORY BREADS
HOW TO BABKA The only guide you’ll need from babka queen Naomi Elberg.
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SHAPE UP Shaping up our babka skills.
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MARNIE’S CHALLAH DOUGH The only challah recipe you'll ever need.
Chef Isaac Bernstein's guide to no-knead dough will have you coming back for more.
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MALKIE GORDON HIRSCH is a self-taught pastry aficionado knocking out stunning letter cakes, tarts and strawberry shortcakes that dreams are made of. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @kissthekoshercook and look out for her baking tips throughout this issue.
GUEST EDITOR
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TIMATE TE A UL
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F F E E DI P
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Baking with R.
O
R
BY SHIFRA KLEIN
Tahini With the popularity of Middle Eastern cuisine, sesame paste has gained fame worldwide as the indisputably savory, nutty, creamy, rich ingredient that can be used on anything and everything from falafel and shawarma, to salad dressings and sauces, even in desserts. Sesame paste as a baking ingredient has been gaining popularity recently, but in reality has been used in Middle Eastern desserts as a magical pastry staple for hundreds of years. The most common pastry utilizing tahini is a shortbread-like cookie in which tahini adds a pop of nutty flavor that makes this the ultimate tea or coffee dipper. After enjoying these cookies in Israel for years and inspired by Orly Ziv’s halva chocolate babka (from her book Cook in Israel), I began experimenting with sweet tahini preparations. I started to enjoy tahini in its most pure form and appreciate the depth of flavor this one ingredient holds. This process produced one of my most accomplished but simplest recipes, a 2-ingredient tahini caramel.
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TAHINI
Yes! Two simple, powerhouse ingredients combine together without any cooking to create the most luscious, magnificent, silkysmooth caramel ever. No one will ever believe how easy it is to make.
You can use the caramel as a topping for ice cream, mixed with apples in an apple crumble or in the most epic cinnamon buns ever! I used the caramel to create my version of sticky buns, but instead of brown sugar and butter, I used tahini and silan - the two ingredients you will need to make this delicious caramel-like syrup in minutes.
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S O B E W F F 16
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The future of Friday night dinner is served. Kosher steps up to the plate in the sunshine state. BY CHAVA WITKES
D
ining out with famous chefs and eating their food on Shabbos is hardly a realistic option for most kosher diners. This year, the South Beach Wine & Food Festival (SOBEWFF), together with the efforts of Chef Yos Schwartz of Hasid+Hipster made this dream dinner experience a reality.
Once a year, the Food Network hosts the South Beach Wine & Food Festival. It’s a national event that takes place across 5 days and showcases the world’s most renowned talents in the culinary industry. The food and wine come from some of the best purveyors and the personalities who give food demonstrations at over 100 different events are nothing short of celebrity.
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SOBEWFF
Einat Admony
Yos Schwartz
Amos Sion
Zak Stern
Adeena Sussman
INFLUENCED BY THE PAST, MADE FOR THE PRESENT, TASTED LIKE THE FUTURE.
Appetizers BY CHEF YOS SCHWARTZ
PICKLED SALMON CROSTINI “I wanted the dinner to feel that much more Jewish,” said Chef Yos, “So I borrowed this one from kiddush club.” The riff on herring is a few steps up from the matjes and crackers that your grandfather ate in shul.
Poultry BY EINAT ADMONY
CHICKEN TAGINE “This was your roasted Shabost chicken 2.0,” commented a guest. “The carrot harissa was the perfect fresh and spicy accompaniment to
ZA’ATAR CRAB SALAD IN CUCUMBER CUPS
the rich, deeply flavored chicken.”
“When Amos Sion, the chef behind a popular non-kosher seafood restaurant in Israel heard I was making crab salad,
Meat
he freaked out. ‘How come I can’t use crab?!’ We quickly
BY ADEENA SUSSMAN
explained to him the kosher resourcefulness of imitation crab.”
HAWAIJ BRAISED SHORT RIBS
CHICKEN LIVER DEVILED EGGS “I made these with duck liver that I sourced from Grow & Behold, but I’m not expecting the average cook to have it on hand—the pâté will taste just as good with chicken livers.”
TROPICAL CEVICHE “This seafood salad is Miami meets Israel. We used bright, tangy passion fruit and sweet pomegranate seeds. The idea for light appetizers was to set the stage for some of the heavier foods later in the meal.”
Fish BY AMOS SION
HALIBUT WITH SPINACH AND TAHINI
“This dish made me fall in love with hawaij,” says Michelle. (a lucky guest at the SOBEWFF dinner)
Dessert BY ZAK STERN
FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE ALMOND COOKIES WITH FIG & HONEY ICE CREAM This recipe is staying top-secret, so you’ll have to make the trip to Zak the Baker in Miami if you want to experience it. (And who isn’t looking for an excuse to visit Florida?)
One guest noted,
“I was a little skeptical about these flavor combinations, but one bite was all I needed to be sold on Amos’ skill set. He does seafood really well.” MAY/JUNE 2019
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Mastering
PAREVE BAKING
with The Kosher Baker
Pareve baking
BY PAULA SHOYER
After I graduated from pastry school in Paris, I converted the dairy recipes I learned into pareve ones that could be served on Shabbos. Back then, there were few options for dairy substitutes. I had to adjust techniques and baking times to compensate for the poor replacements that were out there on the market. Thus was born my love for the chemistry involved in pareve baking. Here is what I learned along the way: MAY/JUNE 2019
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
uos Spr v a ea Sh d A
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Article by Chava Witkes
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Recipes by the chefs at Noi Due Carne E! 46
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THE DINNER:
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t’s 3:00 PM and Golan Chetrit, proprietor of Noi Due Carne, is calling his team together around a shiny stainless steel table in the Noi Due Carne restaurant kitchen. The chef, Beau Houck, passes around the day’s specials, which include their famous spaghetti-stuffed meatball, as well as a salmon carpaccio. Chef Beau briefs the servers and bus boys with everything they need to know to properly relay the specials to guests. In a few hours, this Upper West Side restaurant will be buzzing with conversation while customers from all sides of the kosher spectrum come to enjoy the Mediterranean-inspired food at this popular small-plates inspired Italian restaurant, but for these few moments, there is a sense of peace. This is the Noi Due family, and it’s how Golan runs his restaurants. It is during Chef Beau’s briefing that Golan provides positive feedback to the bartender, and brings up any issues to the team like the importance of allergy requests, customer service and special parties. There are always fires to put out with restaurants and Golan does so under pressure with grace, always asking the advice of his team and
Inspired by the Italian themed fare calmly maintaining the superb service that Noi Due is famous for. Golan opened Noi Due Carne two years ago after ten years of success at his neighboring dairy restaurant of the same name. The Italian-born owner sees everyone from his head chef to his dishwasher as family. “At Noi Due we still have ten employees with us from the beginning.” In an industry where high turnover is the norm, Golan has kept his staff together with a strong vision that goes beyond just serving food. “Our restaurant is part of the Jewish community. We have a responsibility.” Honoring that duty can mean hosting IDF veterans visiting New York for medical treatments or playing special music on Lag B’omer. “I teach all my staff about what it means to be Jewish. They know all about bishul yisroel, shomer negiah, birkat hamazon, etc.” Opening up a meat restaurant under the Noi Due umbrella had been a vision in Golan’s mind for years before actually launching. “I wanted people to come to 69th Street for dinner and be able to ask, ‘dairy or meat?’ Options are always better.” When they bought out the non-kosher
“I called Meal Mart and asked them to send me one of everything,” says Golan. “They thought I was crazy.”
served at Noi Due Carne, Fleishigs Magazine created a live article where local influencers participated in a dinner celebrating the hottest dishes at Noi Due. The chef generously shared many of the recipes served at the dinner so you can recreate these dishes in celebrating with your dearest family and friends this Shavuos and beyond.
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LIMONCELLO TIRAMISU COCKTAIL AMARETTO TOMATO GAZPACHO CRISPY BABY ARTICHOKES FLASH FRIED CAULIFLOWER FARRO TUSCAN KALE SALAD WHOLE ROASTED BRANZINO SALMON CARPACCIO EGGPLANT CARPACCIO VEAL MILANESE SPAGHETTI-STUFFED MEATBALL CAVATELLI SHORT RIB RAGU ZABAGLIONE
Chef Eitan Bernath compiled an incredible video of the dinner that you can watch on his YouTube channel.
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Part 2: Jewish Classic Pastries
PASTRY
BABKA & KOKOSH
A Tale of Two Cakes.
Since traveling across the Atlantic many years ago, babka and kokosh have made big waves. It’s common for family members to share similar physical traits and these cousins are no different. Both are comprised of a sweet yeast dough (also known as an enriched dough), both are rolled flat, generously filled with cinnamon or chocolate and shaped prior to baking.
So what makes them different? The composition of these delights varies depending on the amount of yeast used, the sweetness and richness of the dough, as well as the variety of flours and fillings used in the recipes. Rise time also plays a large role, as does the method of shaping, pan choice, and even the length of baking time.
(Part 1: Kokosh published in the March 2019 issue of Fleishigs Magazine)
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