M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E
CLASSIC DELI ROLL: OGRES AREN’T THE ONLY ONES WITH LAYERS.
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ISSUE JAN. 2020
THERE’S NO GRAY AREA WHEN IT COMES TO BLACK AND WHITES
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LETCHO WISH YOUR SWEETBREADS WERE HOT LIKE ME.
CONTENTS
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This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of pastrami.
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BUTCHER’S CUT
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ANTWERP A look into Hoffy's famous deli, Hoffy’s, and the cookbook it inspired
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Two chefs present their classic and modern takes on traditional dishes.
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CULINARY SCHOOL
Chef Isaac Bernstein gives a detailed step-by-step on preparing stuffed chicken capons.
CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN has established a reputation in the kosher world for modernizing heimish cuisine. He founded Epic Bites, a kosher catering company in Northern California, which became known for epic, modern, multi-course popup dinners. From Epic Bites, he moved on to directing the culinary department at Pomegranate Supermarket in Brooklyn. He spearheaded their “Pom Prime Shabbos” concept, which opened up doors for other supermarkets that deli can be cool. Today, Chef Isaac is a partner of Gruit in Brooklyn, NY. Additionally, he is a food and restaurant consultant and he produces exclusive culinary events. You can follow Chef Isaac's food adventures @chefisaacb on Instagram. Check out his contributions throughout this issue.
JANUARY 2020
BACKPOCKET Four new ways to update the classic gefilte fish COOKBOOK REVIEW The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig
TRAVEL
Fleishigs
EVENT Fleishigs x Adeena Sussman x Sage Kitchen
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Everything you need to know about Antwerp, the classic European city.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Discovering the “New Jewish Deli” in Brooklyn, NY
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THE EXPERT Chef Yehuda Sichel's modern versions of chopped liver and cholent
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SOMETHING FRESH Try these delicious takes on coleslaw
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INTERVIEW Talking herring with Naftali Engel of The Rebbe’s Choice
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THE CELLAR Wines that will pair with your favorite pastrami on rye
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RECIPE INDEX LAST BITE
Disclaimer: Due to the everchanging landscape of the travel industry, names, locations and even kashrut can change on a dime. Consult with your local Rabbi to determine which hashgacha works with your lifestyle. Fleishigs does not take responsibility for the kashrut standards of the restaurants listed in this issue. w w w.f leishigs.com
BACK POCKET
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BACK POCKET
Cinco Gefilto Five New Ways to Flip Gefilte.
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roll of gefilte fish, essentially mildly-seasoned ground fish, is a blank canvas and can be transformed with almost any international flavor profile. You can steam, boil or fry the gefilte fish and top it as you please. We had so much positive feedback to our September feature on how to cook gefilte fish that we decided to take it up a notch with some more fun and exciting preparations. The following recipes are wonderful to have on hand.
BY SHIFRA KLEIN
JANUARY 2020
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i s t r m a a P
G H T.
BY NAFTALI HANAU
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’S A D E
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othing says "Jewish New York Deli" more than pastrami. We've been making this iconic Jewish classic for years, but gained a new appreciation for it this summer when we tested a new recipe for Montreal smoked meat. You could say that these two cuts are long lost cousins; both are a type of preserved beef, generally made from the belly or “plate” of the steer — heavily spiced, smoked and steamed before eating. Whereas pastrami’s special blend of coriander and black pepper took hold in the New York area in early 20th century diners and became emblematic of Jewish deli cooking, the addition of garlic became entrenched in the Montreal area, bringing us their iconic Montreal smoked meat sandwich.
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In both cases, these cuts were originally made by taking the very fatty belly muscle of the steer (the same muscle used to make bacon) or a whole fat-on brisket, then curing, spicing and cooking it in a way to achieve tender and flavorful results, typically in a smoker. When pastrami is served in the classic deli setting, it’s generally steamed for a few hours before slicing, which yields even more tender meat. The extra fat can then be rendered out, if desired, by frying or steaming. Nowadays, as tastes have changed, pastrami is often made from leaner cuts, including various shoulder cuts. Navel pastrami is the fattier variety, cut from the belly.
F R O M T H E B E L LY O F T H E B E A ST COMES A CUT T H AT M E A N S BUSINESS.
You can buy pastrami as a slab or pre-sliced — both are best when heated. For the whole slab, steam in the oven on low temperature. Place the slab on a rack in a pan over a small amount of water, cover tightly and steam for 1-2 hours until tender. Alternatively, use an electric multi-cooker like the Instant Pot. For sliced pastrami, you don’t need to steam it for as long; it can be heated on a blech for Shabbat or in the microwave for a minute or two, then layered into a sandwich or, our personalf favorite, piled on top of a burger. New York Deli, we’re upping the game.
Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered, premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com/fleishigs. JANUARY 2020
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BUTCHER'S CUT
F I E STA M E E T S E ST H E R . W H E N WO R L D S C O L L I D E . ( I N T H E B E ST WAY P O S S I B L E ) .
Pastrami Taco Platter Tacos are extremely family-friendly; pastrami, especially with such an easy preparation, is the perfect filling.
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BUTCHER'S CUT
Bowtie Pastrami Salad Not just for your summer BBQs, pasta salads are extremely forgiving and versatile. Add your favorite accompaniments for an all-around crowd-pleaser.
JANUARY 2020
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Deli Talk
BY NAOMI ROSS
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nce upon a time, the institution of the Jewish deli was born. It evolved from Ashkenazi Jewish immigrants who brought the delicatessen concept (originally from Germany) with them to the United States in the late 1800s. The deli was a place to sit, catch up with friends and relax – and all while enjoying the Jewish comfort foods with which customers culturally identified. The food was old world “heimish,” which means “home,” or in other words — how mama used to make it. But over the years of diners passing through, social mores changing and expectations expanding, the face (and perhaps the heart) of the Jewish deli has changed.
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SEASONAL
JANUARY 2020
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CLASSIC CLASSIC DELI ROLL RECIPE BY BERISH RAPAPORT Layering is the secret to this sweet and savory deli roll. Carefully overlapping the deli slices for even and neat slicing and layering sauce in between the layers of deli gives this roll a cohesive look and taste.
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SEASONAL
UPDATED DELI ROLL RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN
MODERN
A cross between a classic deli roll and a Reuben sandwich, this dish packs a punch from the mustard-braised cabbage and duck sauce. This recipe can be made as one long roll to slice after baking, or make individual “knishes” by separating pieces, rolling and sealing the dough edges together before baking.
ROLL WITH IT JANUARY 2020
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
Deli Cra 52
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
A pastrami-lover’s dream (pass the Tums) BY N AO M I R O S S
JANUARY 2020
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CULINARY SCHOOL
n e s k on c i p h a C C 101 WIT
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Farfel Stuffing
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Broccoli Stuffing
Truffle Brioche Stuffing JANUARY 2020
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SOMETHING FRESH
BY SHIFRA KLEIN Coleslaw is the deli staple that brings a crunchy, creamy and cool factor to classics like pastrami on rye. The main elements of a solid coleslaw — cabbage, carrots, onions (sometimes) and a mayonnaise-based dressing — can be adapted to create some sensational upgrades to the classic slaw, worthy of being served at any Shabbos or holiday meal.
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SOMETHING FRESH
e TIP! For extra texture, use a combination of whatever green cabbage varieties you can find. Napa cabbage is used in many Asian recipes and is lighter than Savoy and classic green cabbage.
Snappy Red Cabbage Slaw
Dressed slaws can be refrigerated up to four hours in advance of serving, so the flavors have a chance to meld together; just add the garnishes right before serving.
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