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Fleishigs Magazine Issue 018 - July 2020

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SHACKIN UP WITH SHAKSHUKA. page 69

ISSUE J U LY 2 0 2 0

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LIFE’S SABICH: GRILLED SABICH PLATTER

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PEAS, LOVE & CARROTS, A (LABOR OF) LOVE STORY.


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EDITOR’S LETTER

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SUMMER GADGETS Essentials and extras to enhance your summer cooking

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HOT 5 Our favorite unique staples for making this issue

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SUMMER PRODUCE Building a producecentered menu with Celeste Hackel

BUTCHER'S CUT

This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau shares the wonders of this unknown cut — Denver steak.

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SEASONAL

Create full flavor with half the smoke

28 COOKBOOK REVIEW Behind the scenes of Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook 38 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Krudo in North Miami Beach, FL 64 BREAKFAST-INSPIRED BBQ Make over your dinner 70 MOROCCAN PANTRY The essentials for Moroccan cooking with guest editor Danielle Renov

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BACK POCKET

TAGINE The art of the tagine with Levana Kirschenbaum

100 INTERVIEW Yosaif Krohn of Café Chocolat in Cedarhurst, NY

Corn three ways with private chef Hudi Riven

82 TRAVEL

Paris + How to eat like a Parisian

102 L’CHAIM Breaking down French wines 104 NO-BAKE DESSERTS Elevating the icebox cake with Rosa Seidenwar 114 LAST BITE Danielle’s Watermelon Slush 112 RECIPE INDEX

GUEST EDITOR: DANIELLE RENOV @PEASLOVENCARROTS BORN AND RAISED IN NEW YORK, Danielle Renov brings her Moroccan and Mediterranean-influenced recipes to her vast following out of her home in Jerusalem, Israel. She loves to have fun in the kitchen and shares her passion for cooking with an infectious personality. From blogging and vlogging, restaurant consulting, recipe developing, cooking demos and now author of the soon-to-bereleased cookbook, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook, Danielle greets all her followers daily with a huge smile and positive outlook. Visit Danielle at www.peaslovencarrots.com and on Instagram @peaslovencarrots.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

N 2014, just before Shavuot, we launched the Denver steak. Its introduction was buried at the end of an email about cheese. For years it was billed as a budget cut, a “great alternative to ribeye” or “something new to try." Six years later, it sells out every week. So how did a steak that was basically unheard of become the darling of the kosher world? It’s a mighty fine steak, that’s how. Denver steak has great flavor, no gristle and can be or Denver marinated dry-rubbed. steak is It’s a wella well- marbled cut that is most marbled cut similar to that is mosts the center of ribeye, similar to the offering just the center of the right the ribeye. amount of marbleization. When seared at high heat and sliced into 1/4-inch slices (always against the grain, please), it is beloved by children and adults alike.

incentive to find creative ways to use all of the kosher parts of the steer, taking the time to learn how to cut the Denver steak out of the rest of the chuck underblade (which is basically only suitable for stew or grind) made a lot of sense for us. One of our butchers told us, “I think we should make this steak,” and the rest is history. When left whole, we sell this section as French roast; when cut into steaks, it yields our petite French brisket and Denver steaks (which you may sometimes find labeled as New York strip, zabuton or underblade steaks). We like to cook Denver steaks with our CocoaCumin Rub. My sister’s kids love it with our American Marinade (both recipes follow). You can grill or sous vide the steaks and then sear to finish. They are even divine with nothing but salt and pepper. Move over, ribeyes.

Try

DON'T HAVE DENVER? RIB EYE

CHUCK STEAK F L AT I R O N S T E A K OY S T E R S T E A K

What to do if you overcooked your steak? Simple, make pulled beef! Place your overcooked steak in a pan with 1 sliced onion, 1 cup broth and ½ cup barbecue sauce. Cover and braise in a 350°F oven for 2½ hours, then shred with a fork. Stuff into a toasted bun and enjoy.

IF IT SEEMS LIKE this steak was invented out of thin air, you’re not totally wrong. It’s a relatively new steak in the non-kosher market as well. It was “discovered” and introduced by the Cattlemen’s Beef Board in 2009 as part of a program to identify and promote potentially more affordable cuts. In the kosher world, where we have even more

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BY: SHIFRA KLEIN


POWER COUPLE JACOB AND MARIEL COTTER, PROPRIETORS OF KRUDO, HAVE TRANSFORMED THE KOSHER FISH SCENE IN SOUTH FLORIDA. JULY 2020

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BACK POCKET

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Don’t you just Louvre a good food tour? By: Shifra Klein

as told to Chana Zelda Weiss


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Icebox cakes became very popular in the 1920s and 1930s due to their ease, with ingredients that were mostly pre-made. These days — and especially in the summer months — I think we can all agree that going back to basics is best. Even though the method is easy, there is nothing basic about the taste and look of these three icebox cake recipes. It’s also the perfect dessert to get kids involved in the kitchen. Keep in mind that icebox cakes need to be refrigerated overnight before serving (hence the name), so make sure to plan ahead.

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