MAY 2020
Fleishigs
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
22
6 8
EDITOR’S LETTER
FOOD NEWS & UPDATES
12
BUTCHER'S CUT
This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of duck.
HEIRLOOM TOMATOES Make way for summer produce
14
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Sage Kitchen in Lower Manhattan
41
SEASONAL Prepare a no-frills Shavuos feast.
31
ONE DOUGH, THREE WAYS With Rochie Pinson
36 46 48
52
CULINARY SCHOOL Master homemade gnocchi L'CHAIM Highlighting wines to serve with a Shavuos meal COOK ONCE, EAT TWICE A primer on lentils with Celeste Hackel
67
QUARANTINE COOKING Wtith Danielle Renov
TRAVEL
71 78
Spend 24 hours in Tel Aviv.
62
BACK POCKET Cook your way through the pantry.
THE OG CORONA Cooking with beer
FASHION MEETS FOOD A night at Wall Street Grill
90 94 96 98
PESTO Using leftovers wisely INTERVIEW Miri from Ten Bloom Cakes RECIPE INDEX
LAST BITE
4
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
When cheesecake looks this good, you almost don't want to eat it.
Good luck with that.
Irresistible is the only way to describe Gourmet Glatt's delectable cheesecakes, cheese pastries and cheese babkas. Made from the finest, freshest ingredients, they not only look spectacular, they taste that way too. cedarhurst
woodmere
brooklyn
lakewood north
lakewood south
137 Spruce Street Cedarhurst, New York T: 516-569-2662
1030 Railroad Ave Woodmere, New York T: 516-295-6901
1274 39th Street Brooklyn, New York T: 718-437-3000
1700 Madison Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1700
1328 River Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1750
Shop online at GourmetGlattOnline.com
/gourmetglatt
EDITOR'S LETTER
SHAVUOS ISSUE
The making of a magazine during COVID-19: EVERYTHING IN THE pages before you has a unique backstory related to the majorly unexpected reality we all found ourselves in due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Back in March, we were actively finalizing the annual Restaurant Issue and it was going to be incredible. It was set to include meaningful content, delicious recipes, stunning photos and the forwardthinking state of kosher food today. As one of the immediate impacts of the coronavirus was the shutdown of most restau rants — and many are still struggling to stay afloat — we knew that the restaurant issue had to be postponed. Rather than let the pandemic completely overwhelm us, we decided to strategically work some of our planned content into the Shavuos issue. You can read the story about Sage, the new-age 'mom and pop' restaurant and Chef Jazzie's insight into its making. She generously shared her most popular recipes, too. As we go to print, Sage is currently closed for dining, but is providing delivery across the city. Another easy choice to include was our step-by-step guide to gnocchi. It is super easy to follow and makes the lightest, fluffiest gnocchi from scratch in minutes. Plus, it is extremely versatile and can be served with almost anything. Our expansive Butcher's Cut section features duck confit, the perfect pairing for gnocchi, which was originally inspired by Mike's Bistro, a popular steakhouse in NYC. Back in February, we hosted the organizers and vendors of the Brooklyn MRKT (an annual charity fashion pop-up created by the Anelis Group) at Wall Street Grill in NYC for a night of fashion and food. We were served top-tier food by executive chef Joey Paulino, who also shared some of his signature recipes for the issue. Unfortunately, the Brooklyn MRKT had to cancel due to the situation, and both vendors and Ohr Naava, the organization that Brooklyn MRKT benefits, lost thousands of dollars. I am most fascinated, however, by the strength shown by everyone involved and love how a story on food and fashion expanded to that of resilience and pulling through the unexpected. We had also planned an entire feature with Danielle Renov, food blogger at @peaslovencarrots. She was slated to be
6
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
guest editor this month and share a behindthe-scenes look into the making of her new book, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook. The book's release date was pushed from May to late July, due to printer shutdowns connected to the coronavirus. Although we had to scrap the feature for right now, we plan to have Danielle join us in July. In the meantime, she shared some of her favorite family-friendly meals that she’s made during quarantine from her home in Jerusalem. The current situation has forever changed the way we approach and appreciate food. We learned how to make the most of what we have and be mindful of eating foods to maintain immunity and energy. Health coach Celeste Hackel delivers her Cook Once, Eat Twice approach that shares a common theme with cookbook author Rochie Pinson’s feature, One Dough, Three Ways. As Shavuos is fast approaching, we challenged ourselves to come up with an elegant feast that tastes amazing and is sure to impress (guests or no guests) — all at a minimal cost. So, we reconfigured what a feast should look like and came up with one of our favorite meals ever. The biggest change in perspective here at Fleishigs, however, is to really live day by day and take things as they come. Bitayavon, Shifra P.S. Banana cake and Dalgona coffee were probably the two most viral recipes in the past few weeks. I succumbed and hand-whisked quite a few batches of Dalgona (Google for the recipe) and enjoyed my fair share of banana cake. Here is my favorite one bowl, no mixer recipe: Banana Cake Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine 2 mashed bananas, 2 eggs, ½ cup oil, ½ cup orange juice, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and 1 cup sugar until fully combined. Add in 1¾ cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking soda and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. (Add chocolate chips or blueberries to the batter, if you’d like.) Pour into a 9x13-inch baking dish. Bake for 35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss PROOFREADER Sara Linder ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com
Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 888 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, diningware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.
TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine www.fleishigs.com
Freshly Minted. -
INTRODUCING DARK MINT, THE LATEST BAR-RAISING FLAVOR, DEEPLY RICH AND PLEASANTLY REFRESHING.
IMPORTED BY TAAM TOV FOODS INC. | TEL. 718-965-1700
14
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
MAY 2020
Fleishigs
15
IF YOU’RE LOOKING for a rich, elegant and ultra-flavorful alternative to beef or chicken for a special dinner, duck legs are a great choice. However, don’t just roast them like a steak; because of the high fat content and strong leg muscles, duck legs need to be cooked low and slow. BEST WAY TO COOK DUCK LEGS the typical preparation for duck legs, where the meat is completely submerged in fat (sometimes this fat is rendered from the meat itself, sometimes additional fat or oil is added) and cooked at a very low temperature. What results is an extremely rich meat that can be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks, tightly wrapped and submerged in the fat to prevent oxidation. To counteract the high fat content, you’ll often see duck served with a sweet or tart sauce. Strong flavors, like orange, cherry and olive cut through the richness of the duck fat and meat to balance out the dish. DUCK CONFIT IS
BY NAFTALI HANAU
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER
DUCK VARIETIES THERE ARE SEVERAL varieties of duck that are commonly eaten; for kosher purposes, we only have a tradition to eat the Pekin duck (in the U.S.) and not the leaner, smaller Muscovy ducks or the Muscovy-Pekin cross, the Mallard. Recipes that call for Muscovy duck will expect a leaner result, so you may want to reduce the amount of fat you use if you’re cooking with a kosher Pekin duck (also called Long Island Duck).
22
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
KOSHER DUCK SUPPLY FOLKS OFTEN wonder why it’s so hard to find fresh kosher duck and the reason is that there’s just not a lot of duck on the market. Ducks are much harder to process than chicken (think: thick feathers) making them a much more labor-intensive poultry to produce. Ducks are also more expensive to raise than other poultry and are priced accordingly. Since there is less demand for duck than most other poultry, ducks are generally produced in batches and held in the freezer until use, which is not necessarilty a bad thing. It’s worth digressing to talk about frozen versus fresh kosher meat for a minute. Meat that is processed, butchered and aged for a product-appropriate length of time (anywhere from 1-30 days) and then flashfrozen at peak quality will be just as good, if not better, than fresh meat that has been sitting on a supermarket shelf for too long. Frozen meat gets a bad reputation when that meat is frozen approaching its expiration date. Off smells or poor textures that you may associate with frozen meat are actually because the meat was frozen past its peak, not because of the freezing itself. All of Grow & Behold’s duck — and the rest of our meats — are frozen at peak quality and you’ll never notice the difference once you take a bite.
Since duck legs are much richer than chicken,
plan on a smaller portion per person and serve alongside plenty of vegetables and grains. You can also shred the meat to use in salad, as filling for dumplings and cigars or as an appetizer on crackers. Since the fat is where so much flavor is, you’ll do better with high quality, pastured duck for the freshest, cleanest flavor.
Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premium quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb and poultry, with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com. MAY 2020
Fleishigs
23
30
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
There is something indescribably satisfying about baking bread. Even more so, multi-purpose doughs are the definition of intentional cooking, utilizing time and resources wisely. This brilliant, easy-to-execute dough results in a trifecta of goodness — focaccia, garlic knots and savory spinach babka. MAY 2020
Fleishigs
31
CULINARY SCHOOL
IF YOU KNOW, YOU GNOCCHI 36
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
MAY 2020
Fleishigs
37
52
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
MAY 2020
Fleishigs
53
78
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
EAT WITH YOUR EYES By Chana Zelda Weiss
Photography By Schneur Menaker
MAY 2020
Fleishigs
79
“When creativity is in your blood, food and fashion become art; the world your canvas.” Chaya Rochel Neuman @cmoi.nyc
86
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
FOOD & FASHION
42oz Long Bone Tomahawk for Two King Trumpet Mushrooms Bone Marrow | Braised Short Rib
“Fashion bloggers are not just about fashion anymore, it’s about the complete lifestyle. People want to know what you’re wearing, what you’re doing and where you’re eating — they want to see what’s new and trendy in all facets of life.” Frumee Taubenfeld @frumeetaubenfeld MAY 2020
Fleishigs
87
90
Fleishigs
MAY 2020
www.fleishigs.com
A
FTER EVERY FLEISHIGS
photo shoot we are always left with a variety of herbs, half bunches of basil, parsley, cilantro, chives, mint and tarragon — sometimes only a few leaves with lots of stems — and we always make pesto. We even throw in some greens from time to time (like arugula); it truly happens organically. I have to credit my husband Shlomo for this initiative. Shoot days can be exhausting and he is the one that always gathers all the leftover greens and creates magic. After months of pesto making and eating, I have fallen in love with this magical condiment. Greens, such as arugula, provide healthy minerals, while almonds give a boost of protein, making my favorite combination highly nutritious. Pesto is also very versatile and can be thrown on anything to elevate flavors in pasta, chicken, fish and vegetables or combine with some mayo and lemon for a wonderful salad dressing.
Basic Pesto Yields: 1 cup
This basic pesto is the most classic version, but feel free to build off of it to create your own favorite combinations. Make sure your herbs are completely dried before blending. 1 ¼ ½ 2 ½ ¼ ½
cup packed fresh basil leaves cup packed fresh parsley cup toasted pine nuts cloves garlic teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for topping pesto
1. Add herbs, nuts, garlic, salt and pepper to a blender and blend, slowly drizzling in olive oil until smooth. 2. Place in an airtight container and top with some oil. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Leftover Pesto Yields: 2 cups
There’s no better way to repurpose herbs and greens that may have otherwise ended up being thrown away. 1½ 2 1 2 1 ½ 1
cups mixed herbs, stems included cups mixed greens (such as baby arugula, baby spinach or baby kale) cup toasted nuts or pepitas cloves garlic teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for topping pesto
1. Add herbs, greens, nuts, garlic, salt and pepper to a blender and blend, slowly drizzling in olive oil until smooth. 2. Place in an airtight container and top with some oil. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
MAY 2020
Fleishigs
91