M E D I U M D O N E
page 26
page 64
page 54
ISSUE
W E ’ R E
A
W E L L
NAOMI NACHMAN PERFECTS PESACH
MARCH 2020
BRAISED & CONSUMED: DUDE! WHERE’S MY RIBS?
N 016
RORIE WEISBERG: BE FRUITFUL & MULTI SALAD
THE PESACH ISSUE
50+ RECIPES
100%
GLUTEN-FREE (GET IT? GET IT? WINK WINK NUDGE NUDGE)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
28
10 14
The latest trend — sweet potato toasts — and five other ways to use this simple ingredient.
16
EDITOR’S LETTER
PESACH GAME PLAN with guest editor Naomi Nachman
BACK POCKET
GADGETS Building blocks to create and host a smooth Pesach
50
A CELEBRATION OF FISH It’s not just about meat.
64
18
BASICS Recipes to carry you through Pesach
22
SALADS Save the romaine for the seder
34
SEASONAL SIDES Highlighting spring produce with Chef Avner Guzman
44 SOUPS THAT SATISFY 54 MAIN COURSES TO WOW YOUR CROWD
70
THE EXPERT Gabe Garcia from Tierra Sur
BUTCHER’S CUT
80 L’CHAIM!
This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses lamb.
Wines befitting the holiday
86 INTERVIEW
72
Rachel and Hezi Yazdi of Fruits by Pesha
88 RECIPE INDEX +Healthy-ish Menu
90 LAST BITE
DESSERTS Plus a conversation with Rorie Weisberg, creator of Full ‘n Free
NAOMI NACHMAN aka “The Aussie Gourmet” runs a private chef business in Long Island, with a focus on Pesach cooking. She has her own cooking show on Kosher.com and a weekly radio show on the Nachum Segal Network called Table for Two. Naomi travels the world doing cooking demonstrations and Kosher Chopped-style competitions and has appeared on many TV networks such as QVC, CBS, NBC, Fox and Hallmark Channel. Naomi has represented many national brands on social media including Tropicana, Kosher.com, Breakstone's, Ore-Ida and Maxwell House. Over 22,000 copies of her cookbooks, Perfect for Pesach (2017) and Perfect Flavors (2018), have been sold to date. Find Naomi through her website www.theaussiegourmet.com or on Instagram @naominachman.
8
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
THIS PESACH serve the
BEST MEAT Premium Meats for Passover, and All Year Not Available in Stores | Delivered to Your Door growandbehold.com/fleishigs 1-888-790-5781
Pasture Raised
No Hormones or Antibiotics
Family Farms
™
BASICS
Almond Hummus Basic Meat Sauce
Sweet and Sour Sauce
Roasted Shallot Mayo
Egg Noodles
Wooden platters hand crafted by @gracespaintings
18
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
BASICS
Balsamic Citrus Dressing (Recipe in salad section, pg. 27)
Rorie's Creamy Dressing (Recipe in salad section, pg. 27) CrĂŞpes
Hazelnut Butter
MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
19
22
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
23
SEASONAL SIDES
G 34
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
SEASONAL SIDES
AVNER
Use what you have to itsgreatest potential.
GUZMAN By Elisheva Taitz
C
hef Avner Guzman was born in Venezuela and is a classically-trained chef from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, France. His knowledge of global cuisine spans Asian, Spanish, South American, French and more. After leading Shifra and Shlomo on an epic food crawl last month in Paris, Chef Guzman explained how inspired he is by — more than meat — fresh produce, where there is so much opportunity to allow the ingredients to shine. Chef Guzman contributed to the Pesach issue last year with a simple yet elegant salmon tartare and when we heard he was going to be in town during the Pesach shoot this year, we knew it was meant to be. Since his availability was on short notice, Avner made a quick pit stop at Gourmet Glatt. When he arrived at the Fleishigs test kitchen with one bag in tow and only a few hours until his flight to Paris, we weren’t sure what he was going to create. A short time later, we were blown away by the plates before us, as if they came straight out of an all-star restaurant kitchen. Besides for his calm nature and ability to delicately delegate, Chef Guzman’s precision and technique in elevating the simplest of ingredients were a wonder to watch. Follow Chef Avner’s adventures on Instagram @guzmannerwin.
Be ins
pired.
e s i v o r p m I MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
35
SOUPS
PESACH PHO 44
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
SOUPS
MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
45
FISH
BALSAMIC CITRUS BRANZINO 50
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
51
MAIN DISHES
MAKING A PERFECT
PESACH WITH
NAOMI
NACHMAN BY CHANA Z. WEISS
56
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
MAIN DISHES
I
t’s hard to find an avenue of the food industry that Naomi Nachman hasn’t dabbled in. Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, Naomi was a newlywed living in New York City when the school she taught at asked her to teach a makeyour-own sushi class as a school fundraiser. Naomi didn’t know it then, but that was the beginning of what would turn into an extensive culinary career. Her entrepreneurial spirit perked up and just a few years later, she quit her teaching job to pursue her food career full-time, teaching regular cooking classes at her local JCC and working as a personal chef for busy families in her neighborhood. At the age of 23, when most of her young, married friends were going back to their parents’ homes for Pesach, Naomi found herself across the world from her family, making Pesach in a small one bedroom apartment. “Necessity is the mother of invention,” she replies with a laugh, when asked how she found herself in the business of making Pesach. It was sink or swim, and she dove right in. Having grown up with parents who ran a Pesach program for years, she knew that although it was daunting, making her own Pesach could still be doable.
Naomi's dress: House of Lancry
Naomi recognized that the prospect of cooking for Pesach can be quite overwhelming to many, so she ran a small ad in a local paper that read, “Personal Pesach chef available.” People loved the idea of having a local, religious woman, who they could trust to know all the ins and outs of Pesach cooking, come and cook for them in their own homes, adjusting her menu to fit their particular needs and requirements. That was 16 years ago; now Naomi estimates that 80% of her business is from repeat customers, an impressive number that speaks for itself.
Although the personal chef business is a big part of how Naomi got her start, she now keeps that part of her business seasonal to make room for the numerous other projects she has on her plate. With extensive Pesach cooking experience under her belt, Naomi released her wildly successful debut cookbook with Artscroll in 2017, Perfect for Pesach, featuring recipes, tips and tricks applicable to Pesach and year-round. Only a year and a half later, she published her second cookbook, Perfect Flavors. More than just recipes and cooking instruction, what makes Naomi so successful is her vibrant and outgoing personality, which shines through on her social media accounts, numerous TV appearances and as a host of Table for Two, a weekly radio show on the Nachum Segal Network, already in its eighth season. Her energetic persona has taken her around the world, which she describes as her favorite part of the job, hosting interactive kosher Chopped-style competitions for communities, schools and family reunions. After decades of making Pesach, Naomi no longer makes her own. She spends the weeks leading up to Pesach stocking clients’ freezers with ready-to-go dishes, then jets off with her family to teach cooking classes at various Pesach programs around the world. (This year she’s traveling to Rhodes, Greece with the Kosher Travelers program, where she’ll demo Greek-inspired dishes.) “Many people use Pesach as an opportunity for a multi-generational family holiday vacation, which is a wonderful experience,” says Naomi. But for those staying home, making Pesach doesn’t have to be so daunting. “Make lists, start early and plan it out. Nothing is overwhelming when you think it through beforehand.”
MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
57
BUTCHER'S CUT
G E T Y O UR H E AD O U T T H E G R ASS .
OF
lamb ribs
Lamb BY NAF HANAU
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER
lamb shank
lamb shoulder
64
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
GET
CLOSE R TO NATU TASTE RE, THE P ASTU RE. w w w.f leishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
J
ust like beef, lamb cuts can be divided into those that are delicious when roasted at high heat and those that reveal their silky texture and rich flavor only after a long, slow braise. It’s these cuts that we will explore today — shoulder, shanks and ribs. But first, why does lamb taste like lamb and what’s so great about braising? Lamb’s characteristic flavor comes from, in part, specific compounds in the animals’ fat, which are a result of their diet. More grain leads to a lighter, milder flavor and more time spent on pasture leads to a richer and more complex flavor. The intensity of the “lamby” flavor will also vary from cut to cut, because some cuts are more marbled than others. The braising cuts from the shoulder and shank are higher in fat, which means they’ll give you a richer lamb flavor than a lean, well-trimmed lamb chop. When you braise, connective tissues, which are notoriously tough, gradually break down into collagen, which gives braised roasts their silky — almost creamy — texture. If your meat is tough, it needs to be braised for longer. Always make sure you have liquid in your braising pan and that the lid is tightly closed to avoid drying out the roast (and ruining your pan). As with brisket, braise your lamb ahead of time and refrigerate until serving. You can skim the fat that comes to the top of the liquid before reheating. Lamb is rich and the meat will still be delicious even if some of the fat is removed from the broth or sauce. You can purée the remaining braising liquid to make a sauce, serve it as is or add a glaze to the meat before serving.
Lamb Cuts Perfect for Braising: Lamb Shanks:
Lamb Short Ribs:
Naturally, shank meat has lots of connective tissue, which can be tough. However, when cooked correctly, the gelatin in the collagen breaks down, adding a rich, smooth quality to the meat and its sauce. For an elegant presentation, serve each guest their own individual shank with a frenched bone. The meat on each bone is relatively lean, very flavorful and makes quite a generous portion.
With this cut, you’ll have smaller portions of meat on the bones than shanks, with meat that is more marbled. You’ll also enjoy the strongest lamb flavor thanks to all the bones and fat in this cut. Lamb ribs can be smoked, braised or even slow roasted to allow the connective tissues to relax and the fat to render, yielding very succulent morsels of meat.
BoneIn Lamb Shoulder: One of our favorite holiday roasts, a bonein lamb shoulder is a festive roast that can be braised or smoked; like brisket, you can cook it until it’s tender but still sliceable or until it is soft enough to pull. Layer this tender meat on matzah or mashed potatoes for a flavorful Pesach treat (leftovers will also be amazing the next day in your matzah brei).
Not into lamb? If you love a melt-in-your-mouth roast but can’t find lamb or just prefer beef, try these substitutions. They’ll be every bit as flavorful and tender as the lamb originals! LAMB SHANK TAGINE
LAMB SHORT RIBS WITH APRICOTS
GARLIC-HERB LAMB SHOULDER
Substitute: Osso bucco or flanken
Substitute: English-cut short ribs or second cut brisket
Substitute: Flanken roast, second cut brisket, chuck pot roast or minute roast
Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premiumquality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com. MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
65
72
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
73
DESSERTS
Cinnamon Coffee Streusel Crumb Cake Serves: 12 RECIPE BY RORIE WEISBERG This is one of my favorite cake recipes for Pesach and year-round. Not only is it a great dessert that comes together quickly, it’s the perfect cake to keep on hand for breakfast with a cup of coffee. 3 eggs ½ cup almond milk ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup coconut oil 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 cups Rorie's Grain-Free All-Purpose Flour Blend 1½ teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ⅓ cup coconut sugar
Streusel Topping: ½ cup Rorie's Grain-Free All-Purpose Flour Blend ½ cup coconut sugar ¼ cup coconut oil 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 teaspoon coffee dissolved in ½ tablespoon hot water, optional
Preheat oven to 325°F. Whisk eggs, almond milk, maple syrup, coconut oil and vanilla until combined. In a separate bowl, combine flour, cinnamon, baking powder, kosher salt and coconut sugar. Fold wet mixture into dry mixture to combine. In a small bowl, combine streusel ingredients and mix by hand until coarse crumbs form. Pour half the cake batter into a lightly greased 8-inch bundt or cake pan. Sprinkle half the streusel, followed by the rest of the batter. Sprinkle the rest of the streusel on top. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. 74
Fleishigs
MARCH 2020
w w w.f leishigs.com
DESSERTS Next came the Low Carb Gluten-Free Dough Mix, after a respected endocrinologist (with whom I regularly consult) suggested that my original gluten-free mix was still too high in carbohydrates for diabetics and those with insulin resistance. There was much trial and error and I worked with Rabbi Chaim Schabes to ensure that the mix would still maintain its hamotzi status. I was shocked when it came back from the lab at 9 grams of net carbs per serving, lower than expected.
Rorie Weisberg Q&A BY ELISHEVA TAITZ
HOW DID YOU GET STARTED ON THIS JOURNEY? I grew up in Cleveland in a family of creative cooks and bakers. By age 32, after my fourth child, I had developed a thyroid condition that affects many women postpartum. Many doctors immediately resort to medicinal remedies, but I wanted to use a different approach to try to get to the root of the problem and heal myself from within. I began researching integrative nutrition and functional medicine and discovered a holistic approach to self-care and respecting the human body. HOW DID YOUR BUSINESS DEVELOP FROM A PERSONAL EXPERIENCE TO THE BUSINESS IT IS TODAY? I started to see personal results and it motivated me to learn more. I became a certified health coach through the Institute for Integrative Nutrition, interned under brilliant doctors and focused on women’s health. I put together a blueprint, which included honoring our bodies with sleep, hydration, nutrition, stressmanagement and healthy habits — things that so many people struggle with. Going gluten-free also led me to create various flour blends for my own baking, which grew into four blends that can be purchased in supermarkets and on Amazon. CAN YOU TELL US A BIT MORE ABOUT THESE FLOUR BLENDS? Adopting a wheat-free or gluten-free diet is recommended for many struggling with auto-immune disorders. That’s how I originally came to develop my first mix, Spelt Egg-Free Dough Mix. Spelt is not gluten-free, but it’s the easiest transition for someone who wants to begin eliminating wheat from their diet. I knew I wanted my next blend to be gluten-free, so I created the original Gluten-Free Dough Mix. It’s perfect for those with celiac disease or non-celiac gluten sensitivities, though I’ve gotten so much excellent feedback from those with neither.
Most recently, I decided to remove oats from the original glutenfree blend and created a completely Grain-Free All Purpose Flour Blend, which came out last year in time for Pesach — a great option for Pesach and year-round baking. I teamed up with Naomi Elberg (@Naomi_TGIS) to develop over 40 kosher for Pesach recipes using this mix and all the recipes are available on my website, www.fullnfree.com. Since it was such a hit last year, we made 10 times as much this year and are hoping for an amazing season! HOW DO BAKED GOODS WITH YOUR BLENDS DIFFER FROM TRADITIONAL BAKING? Baked goods made with my blends are extremely satisfying. People are shocked how full they feel after two slices of bread, a few pancakes or a muffin, as opposed to baked goods made with processed ingredients, which spike your blood sugar and leave you wanting more. I love that my mixes are still high in healthy fats and protein. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST HURDLE IN BUILDING YOUR BRAND AND BUSINESS? I started this business to get my health under control. The combination of running my business, creating new recipes and content and seeing clients really left me wiped out, which was counterproductive to my original goal of taking care of myself. I’m all about “practice what you preach,” which includes slowing down and reevaluating when necessary. Once I made the choice to slow down, I felt so much better. It wasn’t easy, but it was very liberating. WHAT HAS BEEN SOME OF YOUR BEST FEEDBACK? I love when people tell me how much my tips, mixes and recipes have enhanced their lives. Someone recently told me that my tips on hydration have helped her energy levels. One of my most popular initiatives I do is called a “Sleep Reset,” where I encourage followers to go to sleep between 10:00 and 11:30 PM for 10 days straight and see the different effects it has. Small changes can go really far. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST TAKEAWAY THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE? Through my social media outlets and platforms, I focus on promoting healthy habits in an attainable way, with a positive and encouraging voice; to make the foods you love with ingredients that love your body back. Sometimes that’s as easy as swapping out certain processed ingredients for more natural alternatives. Ultimately, I believe in the message of eating mindfully, with respect and pleasure. I’m so grateful to have been able to turn my own challenges into a way to reach others. With Hashem’s help, I hope to continue on this journey of self-care and helping others with my mixes and recipes. MARCH 2020
Fleishigs
75