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BACK POCKET ARTICHOKES

EDITOR’S LETTER

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

ESSENTIALS Shavuos essentials

COOKBOOK Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome's Jewish Kitchen by Leah Koenig

SEASONAL FEAST

BREAKING BREAD No-knead focaccia

BUTCHER’S CUT Pecorino Romano

ROMAN-STYLE FEAST

SOMETHING SWEET Highlighting lemons

102 L’CHAIM Italian wines and spirits 108 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK 112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp

TRAVEL ROME

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EDITOR'S LETTER

A DREAM COME TRUE. In June 2022, we sat down for our annual editorial planning session, where we plan themes for each month. We decide on a general approach and strategy for the year ahead, since so much of what makes each issue special takes a lot of advance planning. In our mission to constantly bring something new to the magazine, we decided that this year we would produce an entire issue based on our travels to a single destination. We spent the summer brainstorming. Which city should we choose? How will we cover it? Somehow, my heart was set on Rome, a city not only rich in history, but rich in Jewish history. There is so much to do in Rome and it’s a food lover’s haven; Rome offers a variety of kosher food, cooking experiences, Shabbat options and food and wine tours. So, an issue dedicated to Rome was put on the schedule for our annual Milchigs (aka Shavuos) issue, with a focus on Italian food. The idea seemed simultaneously determined and delusional — between babysitting, scheduling and budgets, this was by far one of our most ambitious plans yet. Back in December, we were lucky enough to have Joseph Singer and Rivkah Tuttle from High Class Travel help us plan a quick getaway to Cancun. Having never used the services of a travel agency before, I was floored with the overall service and the capacity of the travel agents to create incredible experiences for the kosher traveler. After such a successful experience with them, I knew they would be the perfect partners to make this dream trip (and subsequently, dream issue) a reality. There is so much that goes into planning a trip like this and we could not have done what we did or even conceptualized many parts of our trip without the dedicated planning by High Class Travel; for that we are forever grateful. Jay Schwartz, a travel concierge and 12

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THE ROME ISSUE

travel advisor at the agency, created a customized itinerary for a culinary-focused trip and was available to us at all hours of the day for any issue that may have come up. Rome has so much to offer that Jewish cookbook author Leah Koenig dedicated her newest upcoming cookbook to Roman Jewish cuisine. In this issue, Leah shares an iconic Roman Jewish recipe and why Rome is of such significance to her. Fellow cookbook author Chanie Apfelbaum, who recently visited Rome, shares a bright and festive Rome-inspired Shavuos feast. Our taste of Roman pizza inspired a focaccia-style feast and our taste of Sorrento lemons and limoncello at the Campo de Fiori market inspired the incredible dessert recipes that Naomi Elberg created. One of the most incredible and inspirational parts of our trip was Shabbat spent in the Jewish Ghetto. It speaks to the incredible spirit of the Jewish nation who, despite multiple attempts by different regimes to annihilate them, managed to survive. Shavuos really drives this point home; it’s the holiday where we celebrate the acceptance of the Torah and the first time the Jews kept kosher – hence the custom of eating dairy food (the prohibition against mixing milk and meat and the need for a festive meal led to a dairy feast). This acceptance is what has undoubtedly kept the identity of the Jewish nation alive for all these years. When you recognize the power of the Torah and how transformative and awe-inspiring it is, there's no better time to bring this all full circle than the Shavuos issue. This issue is all about taking you on a journey to Rome through the recipes and stories that grace these pages. We hope that you feel inspired when reading about the incredible spirit of the Jews of Rome that was felt with every step. Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Chaya Rappoport FOOD STYLIST ASSISTANT Esther Hazan CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com PROPS Lagoon Linens

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ART OF

BACK POCKET

BY: A D I N A S I L B E R M A N

he Jewish connection to artichokes is a story whose theme echoes through our history — out of oppression and persecution, we find ways to innovate, survive and thrive. With the creation of the ghettos of Italy in the 1500s came overcrowding, poverty and limitations on rights. In the Roman Ghetto, Jews were banned from performing anything but menial jobs — dealing used clothing, running pawn shops and selling cheap food on the street. Many Jewish women opened friggitore, stalls selling fried foods and used vegetables, which were considered second-rate to create new delicacies. But what set these friggitore apart was not only their location in the Ghetto, but also their choice of frying oil — olive oil — rather than the locally predominant pork fat. Though frying in olive oil is commonplace now, back then it was innovative. Deep fried artichokes — carciofo alla giudia — were one of these innovations, and the dish is now revered among Italian locals and travelers alike. I like to see the artichoke as the Italian-Jewish version of the Israeli sabra. It’s prickly on the outside, but once you get past the thorny leaves, the inside is supple, flavorful and delicious.

GET TO KNOW YOUR ARTICHOKES • Fresh artichokes are at peak season in the spring. Artichokes generally come in two sizes: large, the more typical variety seen in American grocery stores and small, also known as baby artichokes. • Artichokes have roots in the thistle family, which is why most large artichokes have thorns on their leaves. Baby artichokes tend to be thorn-free.

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• Like apples, avocados and potatoes, the flesh of artichokes oxidize, meaning they turn brown when cut and exposed to air. When preparing fresh artichokes, have a bowl of water with a few squeezes of lemon juice on hand to stop the browning process. • Beyond fresh, artichoke bottoms and hearts are available in many forms. You can

find canned (i.e. Roland, Cento, Reese); jarred and marinated in oil (i.e. Trader Joe’s); and frozen (i.e. Galil). These are great to keep in your pantry or freezer because they can add interesting flavor and texture to your menu in a pinch; when prepared correctly, they can taste just as good as fresh.

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BACK POCKET

CHOKE

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BREAKING BREAD

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BREAKING BREAD

a i c F c e a a c s o e t F

BY: S H I F R A K L E I N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R O N E O F T H E B E ST B I T E S W E H A D I N RO M E WAS T H E P I Z Z A AT B O N A P I Z Z A — M A D E I N A S H E E T PA N W I T H T H E M AG I CA L C O M B I N AT I O N O F A SU P E R C RU N C H Y C RU ST A N D A N A I RY, B U B B LY C E N T E R. B O N A P I Z Z A A LSO S E RV E S A SA N DW I C H V E RS I O N O F T H E I R P I Z Z A , W H I C H I N S P I R E D U S TO R E T H I N K FO CAC C I A BY U P G R A D I N G I TS SU P P O RT I N G RO L E STAT U S TO O N E T H AT TA K E S C E N T E R STAG E .

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BUTCHER'S CUT

A RICH CHEESE WITH A RICHER HISTORY.

PECORINO ROMANO T H E V I B R A N T H I STO RY O F T H I S SA LT Y D E L I CACY BY: E L I S H E VA TA I TZ R EC I P E S BY: S H I F R A K L E I N

Custom butcher paper from @papernpresents / papernpresents.com 44

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BUTCHER'S CUT

THE HISTORY

ardinia, a large Italian island located in the Mediterranean, is known for its sandy beaches, hiking trails and… wait for it… Pecorino Romano cheese! Pecorino Romano cheese is a hard aged cheese made from 100% sheep’s milk. According to European Union law, in order to call it Pecorino, it has to be made in certain islands and provinces, with Sardinia being the main hub for the production of Pecorino Romano today. Slightly sharper than the more widely available Parmigiano Reggiano and asiago, Pecorino Romano cheese dates back centuries and was a staple in the diets of many Roman soldiers. Traditionally, the cheese is made using lamb rennet, which of course renders it not kosher. In comes Brent Delman, otherwise known as The Cheese Guy, famous throughout the kosher market as the producer of all-natural, kosher, vegetarian cheese. Brent’s cheeses utilize milk from pasture- or grass-fed animals, with a focus on small, familyowned farms. With over 20 years of experience, Brent is committed to using high-quality products to produce the most mouthwatering, artisanal cheese. When it came time for Brent to delve into the world of Pecorino Romano, he knew he needed to do it authentically and that meant traveling to Sardinia. “The Sardinian people are very warm, very proud people and they open their homes and farms to us,” he explains. “Because our production is cholov yisroel, we have a mashgiach that spends hours on the farm, starting from the milking process — there are no shortcuts.” Even though there is no Jewish presence on the island currently and there has not been kosher cheese production there in modern times, the affinity from the Sardinian people towards the Jews runs deep.

Brent Delman, otherwise known as The Cheese Guy, is famous throughout the kosher market as the producer of all-natural, kosher, vegetarian cheese.

“THE SARDINIAN PEOPLE ARE VERY WARM, VERY PROUD PEOPLE AND THEY OPEN THEIR HOMES AND FARMS TO US." MAY 2023

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SEASONAL FEAST

A LIGHTSOUT FEAST.

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SEASONAL FEAST

SHAVUOS FEAST INSPIRED BY THE FLAVORS OF ROME BY: C H A N I E A P F E L BAU M P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R

alking through the ancient streets of Rome, you can't help but notice how impeccably people are dressed. The women are so polished and vibrant; I wonder, is the Trevi Fountain the Fountain of Youth? As I toured the city, it became obvious to me that the Roman diet — rich with seasonal produce, fresh fish, rich olive oil, simple pizza bread and homemade pasta — is the secret to their vitality. Carbs are the enemy of American diet culture, but in Italy, good quality flour and fresh ingredients make their glutenous goodies more easily digestible, and a culture that focuses on meals, rather than snacks, keeps them energetic and healthy. Supermarkets are small with a focus on fresh produce. You won't find chips or chocolate bars, just portion-sized packages of dried fruits and nuts. There are no salad dressing or dips

in the country, just a bottle of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper on the table to season salad or dip artichokes. At Campo de Fiori and local produce markets, you'll find jumbo lemons, mountains of fresh basil, the most beautiful artichokes, heirloom tomatoes, zucchini with blossoms attached and endless stands of sundried tomatoes and herbs. Boutique shops are lined with colorful bags of handmade pasta, jars of anchovies for days, bottles of Aperol and limoncello and, of course, coffee and gelato that only dreams are made of. This inspired yet untraditional menu celebrates some of Rome's quintessential ingredients with a trendy twist. NOTE: A few of the following recipes call for Italian peperoncino flakes; if you can’t find them, use red pepper flakes instead.

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WHEN IN 74

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TRAVEL

ome is an ancient city that dates back to 625 BCE. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so great care is taken to preserve everything ancient. Walking through Rome is an active walk through history; almost every building, statue and plaque tells a tale. We were given a hands-on lesson on Rome's centuries-old history and transition of empires and leaders, with examples of the changing architecture and artistic periods from the Renaissance (14th-17th centuries) to the Baroque period (17th-18th centuries).

ROME

Since the Roman Empire was ruled by the Catholic Church for centuries, much of Roman culture centers around churches and holy sites that attract millions of visitors each year. As an observant Jew, there was plenty to see and experience beyond those sites. In fact, Rome has a tremendously impactful and inspiring Jewish history that speaks to the trials and tribulations of the Jewish nation. The most famous center of Jewish history is the Jewish Ghetto, which tells the tale of centuries of Jews forced to live within a three or four block radius, with limited job opportunities and food available. Rome has so much to offer Jewish visitors. Beyond many Jewish sites, there is a wide variety of kosher food. If you love spending your days walking, exploring, shopping and soaking in history and culture, Rome is the place for you.

T R AV E L I N G TO T H I S A N C I E N T C I T Y W I T H J E W I S H RO OTS I S T H E T R I P O F A L I F E T I M E . H E R E A R E O U R T I P S A N D T R I C KS FO R D O I N G I T R I G H T.

» G E N E R A L I N FO

BY: S H I F R A A N D S H LO M O K L E I N

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