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EDITOR'S LETTER
THE SUKKOS ISSUE
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz
We've got you covered. the holiday of feasts. I will always remember my mother’s cooking marathons during the month of Tishrei. She casually cooked up trays upon trays of stuffed cabbage, tomato braised white fish, braised brisket and chicken soup with kreplach for the constant stream of guests that made Sukkos so special, especially for a child. Most of our guests were relatives from Israel visiting Crown Heights for the entire month of Tishrei. It is a very unique month full of holidays, celebrations, gatherings and meals at all hours of the day and night. The holiday of Sukkos celebrates the harvest; we eat in a sukkah (basically translated as an outdoor hut) to commemorate the protective clouds that surrounded the Jews along their journey in the desert from Egypt to Israel. The constant meals and gatherings can reasonably cause inspiration to run dry. This issue is the solution to keep inspiration for the Sukkos season flowing with a hyper focus on approachable recipes that can easily feed a crowd. Even our Butcher’s Cut feature highlights flanken because it's a cut that is super marbled and beefy, but when cooked in stews and braises, can be stretched perfectly to feed a crowd. Plus, it’s the perfect cut of meat that somehow is better even when reheated. The Seasonal Feast feature SUKKOS IS UNDENIABLY
COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss
contains the perfect recipes from Sonya Mirzakandova, a busy nurse, mom and YouTuber, who loves to share snippets of her kosher lifestyle, as well as entertaining and Shabbos prep tips and recipes. These recipes are not only full of flavor, but come together easily. To celebrate the harvest festival that is Sukkos, Adina Silberman created recipes for the Back Pocket feature that can be served as bowls or flatbreads. In these recipes she highlights the seven species of Israel with recipes that are extremely versatile and perfect for a crowd. No matter your day job, everyone finds themselves hosting and entertaining. We were joined by popular Jewish rock band 8th Day who shared a unique perspective on entertaining and the similarities between the table and the stage. Beyond eating in the sukkah and celebrating the harvest festival, Jewish unity is another theme of Sukkos. We make the blessing on the arba minim, which is comprised of an etrog (citron), lulav (palm frond), hadassim (myrtle twigs) and aravot (willow twigs). These four items symbolize four types of Jews with differing levels of Torah knowledge and observance. Once brought together, it represents our unity as a nation, despite our external differences. Bitayavon, Shifra
ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Ella Safier CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt TILES www.tilebar.com DISTRIBUTOR Distribution Express distributionexpress1@gmail.com
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HERZOG Commentary*
This issue was designed to the classic sounds of Yerachmiel Begun (extremly underated songwriter IMO), Conway Twitty, Sappir by Mitch Goodman. Visual Stimuli: House of the Dragon, The Cleveland Browns Football Squad™ Pirush Mili De'shtuta: 1. As opposed to The Great Jack Levinson™ 2. Tropic Thunder 3. Matthew McConaughey to Les Grossman "More like what do you need, Les? Glasses?" 4. Ref. History of the World: Part 1A by Mel Brooks 5. Tuchis Offen TischB 6. House of the Dragon 7. Hodor, simpleminded servant of House Stark 8. Play on Oz VeHadar LevushaC, I.e. the show looks good outwardly 9. Simon & Garfunkel's The Only Living Boy in New York Yalkut Mili De'bdichuta: A. There is no part two B. Let's get down to brass tacks C. Strength and dignity are her clothing
TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine 8
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"We are fwaming dwagon, Simple Jack1 is with us now!"2 And with those immortal lines, House of the Dragon is back! And yes, we want more of Les,3 probably the greatest character in the history of cinema part one4. So TOT5, HOD6 V'Hodor7 Levusha8, it's like watching the original GOT, but with RC Cola and Cotton Club actors vs. Coke and Pepsi. So hey, I've got nothing to do today but smile De-doh-n-doh-de-doh, half of the time I'm going but don't know where (ahhh oooooh ahhhhh). Heeere. I. Ammmm9 (@naftolimann).
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BUTCHER'S CUT
FLANKEN
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EDITOR’S LETTER
18
ESSENTIALS
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COOKBOOK Honey Cake & Latkes: Recipes from the Old World by the AuschwitzBirkenau Survivors
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SEASONAL FEAST
SIMPLE , DOWN-HOME COMFORT FOOD
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BREAKING BREAD Fall-inspired challah
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BACK POCKET Bowls and flatbreads
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L’CHAIM Cocktails and wines for the season
116 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Castel, the Pioneer of Boutique Israeli Wineries 122 TRAVEL Cairo
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ENTERTAIN
ENTERTAINING TIPS FROM THE JEWISH ROCK BAND 8TH DAY AND COOKBOOK AUTHOR KIM KUSHNER
132 SOMETHING SWEET Knafeh 136 RECIPE INDEX 138 LAST BITE The perfect salad
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BUTCHER'S CUT
IF THERE EVER was a perfect cut of meat, flanken might be it. It’s meaty and flavorful. Its tough meat breaks down and lends silkiness to soups and stews. It can be braised or smoked. It disappears, humbly, into a pot of cholent or cabbage soup and just as easily holds its own on a smoker or a grill. And if using bone-in flanken, you’ll have some bones to gnaw when all is said and done. The name flanken is not widely used outside of kosher meat – everyone else just calls this cut “beef ribs.” But with so many different ways to cut a rib and such large ribs to cut (not to mention that we make the most out of every inch of the front half of the animal), we benefit from using specific names for different kinds of rib cuts. Flanken is one of the leaner rib options you’ll find. It’s usually cut in a strip of 4-5 bones, with the meat mostly on top. Flanken is cut from the chuck ribs, which are leaner than the plate ribs (the lower section of the ribs that are responsible for those showier rib cuts like short ribs and spare ribs). However, being lean is another reason that it makes such a stand-out contribution to long-simmering stews and braises – it will bring flavor and texture, without adding an unappetizing slick of fat. Flanken can be cut crosswise into steak-like strips (still studded with those bones). You’ll see these called galbi, kalbi or Korean short ribs; they can be cooked quickly over high heat because they are so thin, although they do tend to be on the less tender side. If you like to smoke meat, you can smoke flanken as well.
But keep in mind that it’s leaner than short ribs; you’ll want to make sure not to dry them out from cooking too hot or too long (though if you do, it’s likely nothing that a little barbecue sauce can’t fix!). In addition to cholent, one of our favorite ways to enjoy flanken is in cabbage soup. This recipe takes the sweet and sour flavors of Ashkenazi cabbage rolls into soup form; the substitution of flanken for the ground beef gives you more beefy flavor, less fat and that signature silky texture, which combined with the just-tender cabbage, makes for a supremely satisfying winter soup. Stews and soups are the perfect recipes when cooking for Yom Tov and serving a crowd. Ideally, they are full of flavor, hearty and satisfying. Best of all, they can be made well in advance, frozen and easily reheated. In fact, an ideal stew tastes even better after being reheated or kept on a warmer for a few hours for those meals that start and end at unofficial times. The worst possible scenario when serving a feast is putting in the effort and having meat that is dried out or overcooked, which is why braised dishes are a must on menus during the Sukkos season.
THE NAME FLANKEN IS NOT WIDELY USED OUTSIDE OF KOSHER MEAT – EVERYONE ELSE JUST CALLS THIS CUT “BEEF RIBS.”
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THIS IS WHY FLANKEN MADE THE CUT THIS MONTH
— even though it doesn’t run cheap, when prepared as a stew, a little goes a long way and really packs a punch in terms of flavor. Not only does bone-in flanken create an instant flavorful stock, it delivers the nutritional value that bones provide and helps keep the meat tender.
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BUTCHER'S CUT
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BUTCHER'S CUT
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REBBESHE RIBS BUTCHER'S CUT
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BREAKING BREAD
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BREAKING BREAD
IN THIS ICONIC SUKKOT-INSPIRED CHALLAH SPREAD, WE MERGE CLASSIC JEWISH DISHES WITH CHALLAH. TO CELEBRATE THE STUFFED FOODS CUSTOM, TRY STUFFING CHALLAH INSTEAD OF CABBAGE!
BY: MANDY SILVERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER
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SEASONAL FEAST
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SEASONAL FEAST
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BY: AD IN A S I L B E R M A N A DENTIST’S PRESCRIPTION FOR A FRUITFUL MEAL: DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM THE SEVEN SPECIES TO CREATE BOWLS AND FLATBREADS FIT FOR THE HOLIDAY. GROWING UP, my family’s sukkah was decorated wallto-wall with colorful artwork — scenes from Israel, posters detailing the tradition of ushpizin (a reference to the seven supernal guests, forefathers, one of whom we welcome into our sukkah each night), illustrations of the rituals of the holiday and most prominently, decorations alluding to the sheva minim, the seven species of the land of Israel. Wheat, barley, grapes, figs, pomegranates, olives and dates are native to and abundantly found in Israel. These species are featured prominently in Biblical
history, as well as in the ritual services performed in the Temple. Sukkot celebrates the ingathering of the harvest — the end of the agricultural season when we can enjoy the fruits of our labor — and there’s no better time to revel in these ancient flavors. Most of the recipes below can be eaten as is or turned into delicious flatbreads or bowls — the perfect vectors to feature the flavors of the sheva minim. The dishes are loaded with inspired toppings and drizzled with sauce to make each bite interesting and memorable. Most of all, have fun and enjoy it!
BY: SHMUEL MARCUS FROM THE STAGE TO THE TABLE: ENTERTAINING TIPS FROM THE GUYS BEHIND THE SOUGHT AF TER JEWISH ROCK GROUP 8TH DAY.