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BUTCHER'S CUT
The wonders of veal chops
46 SHABBAT FEAST
A pared down Shabbos
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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ASK THE EXPERT Your pressing questions, answered
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FOOD FOR GOOD Meet My Kneads
20 GIFT GUIDE What you need and where to get it 25 L’CHAIM Wines worth celebrating 26 RECIPE INDEX 36 BACK POCKET Pumpkin 62 BREAKING BREAD Challah fit for Chanukah 68 FOOD TALK Marc Murphy
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CHANUKAH FEAST
Syrian maza party
72 SEASONAL Savory donuts unlike any other 93 PROFILE Poopa Dweck — the modern queen of Syrian cuisine 110 TRAVEL Guatemala 121 COOKBOOK Simply. Simply Gourmet, Every Day by Rivky Kleiman 128 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK All about the cork 130 LAST BITE Pie Dough Churros
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
Breaking barriers and starting trends at Brooklyn’s MEAT NY
BUTCHER'S CUT
What is Veal? Veal comes from calves, as opposed to beef, which comes from fully grown cows. The age of veal varies and is usually labeled (or ask your butcher) to signify how young it is. Most veal is butchered between 2-3 months of age. The color of the flesh and bones is an indicator of the age of the calf — lighter flesh indicates a younger calf and darker, pinker flesh indicates an older calf. Unlike beef, veal doesn’t have a lot of marbling, as the muscles have not been used as much. On one hand, veal is tender, but needs a careful, gentler approach to cooking than traditional beef.
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ROS E V E A L
W H AT TO LO O K FO R
Grow & Behold (available online at growandbehold. com) is currently the only kosher company that offers rose veal, which comes from young steer that graze and nurse naturally from their mother for 8-12 months. They roam freely on pastures (their farm also includes 150 acres devoted to wildlife management) and are never confined, isolated or fed a diet that encourages anemia. Because the calves are older, rose veal is not as tender as traditional veal, but is still considered to be an ethical variety.
When purchasing veal
V E A L C H O PS
Tender, highly-prized rib cuts are called chops and, just like lamb chops, are the same cut as a rib steak on a steer. Chops are bone-in, meaty and delicious and are best cooked to medium (130°F-135°F) over high, dry heat via grilling, broiling or pan-searing. The ideal thickness of a veal chop is 1½-2 inches thick, which allows you to achieve both a wonderful sear and a medium center.
chops, look for the following: 1. Bright color that isn’t graying 2. Minimal sinew and inner marbling 3. White fat, but not too much outside fat, which is a sign that the calf has been overfed SU B ST I T U T I O N S
For veal milanese, you can use any boneless cut of meat or chicken.
F R E N C H E D V E A L C H O PS
For all other grilled,
Frenched simply means that the butcher cut away excess fat and meat on the bone part of the chop to create a cleaner look. It will cost a bit more, and while it doesn’t taste any different, does offer a more gourmet presentation.
sous vide, seared or broiled recipes, try lamb chops, rib steaks or a well marbled 1½inch thick London broil.
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SHABBAT FEAST
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SHABBAT FEAST
R OA S T E D V E G E TA B L E T I P S When it comes to roasting vegetables, there really isn’t anything much to it. Toss vegetables of choice in good quality olive oil, season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a metal baking sheet and roast at 425°F until tender, about 20-30 minutes. There are a few things to keep in mind when roasting vegetables to ensure success every time:
ALWAYS USE A METAL BAKING SHEET. THE SIZE OF THE VEGETABLES SHOULD BE CONSISTENT FOR EVEN COOKING. IF YOU ARE ROASTING VEGETABLES WITH VARYING COOK TIMES, ROAST ON SEPARATE PANS (SUCH AS BEETS OR SWEET POTATOES, WHICH WILL TAKE MUCH LONGER THAN FENNEL OR ASPARAGUS). BEYOND JUST SALT AND PEPPER, GET CREATIVE WITH THE SEASONINGS — EVERYTHING BAGEL SPICE MIX, HAWAIJ, HARISSA OR HERBS DE PROVENCE WILL ADD A BOOST OF FLAVOR. SERVE ROASTED VEGETABLES AS IS OR USE AS A TOPPING FOR SOUPS, SALADS OR HUMMUS PLATTERS.
In keeping with the theme of a pareddown Shabbos, we used a combination of real and disposable platters for this family-style spread. We love perusing retailers such as Crate & Barrel and Home Goods for affordable finds, in addition to local housewares stores.
These unique My Drap cocktail napkins (available online at mydrap.com) come in a roll and tear to size. The napkins are 100% cotton and are available in many sizes, colors and patterns, from casual to formal. They are single use or machine-washable (up to 6-9 times) and can even be personalized.
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BREAKING BREAD
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FOOD TALK
MARC MURPHY
IS A CHEF and restaurateur who has been cooking for over thirty years. The son of a globetrotting diplomat, Marc started his career working in some of the most highly esteemed kitchens in the world, from Paris to Monte Carlo. Today, Marc is one of New York's most celebrated chefs and a judge on Food Network’s top-rated shows — Chopped and Chopped Junior — and has appeared on Guy’s Grocery Games, Guy’s Ranch Kitchen, Beat Bobby Flay, The Rachael Ray Show, Today Show, Good Morning America and more. He is also the author of the cookbook Season with Authority: Confident Home Cooking. Marc’s involvement in the industry moves beyond the kitchen and television. He is both a food council and board member of City Harvest, New York City’s largest food rescue organization and sits on the leadership council for Share our Strength and participates in their No Kid Hungry campaigns. In 2012, he joined the U.S. Department of State’s Diplomatic Culinary Partnership.
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By: Adina Silberman ph oto g r aph y BY: S ch n e ur M e nak e r
These sweet and savory donuts are reminiscent of the flavors of my favorite Chinese takeout dishes. Though out-of-the-box, they are worth the effort!
CHANUKAH FEAST
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
Elisheva Taitz, Malkie Hirsch & Naomi Nachman
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
GNOCCHI W I T H ROAST E D CAU L I F LOW E R & SU N C H O K E C R E A M
D RY-AG E D RIBEYE
B U T T E R N U T SQ UAS H TAG L I AT E L L E W I T H PULLED LAMB
HOUSE GREEN SA L A D
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