Fleishigs Magazine Issue 028 - July 2021

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Breaking down the humble chicken

44

SHABBAT FEAST

A Bucharian feast with Chagit Leviev

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EDITOR’S LETTER BTS @fleishigsmag

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STAPLES Unique ingredients and gadgets to make the recipes in this issue

30 CULINARY SCHOOL How to spatchcock a whole chicken 34 BACK POCKET Five ways to use rotisserie chicken 58 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Bucharian cuisine 62 BREAKING BREAD Grilled challah

68 SUMMER GRILLING

Indonesian cuisine

80 COOKBOOK How to Grill Vegetables: The New Bible for Barbecuing Vegetables over Live Fire by Steven Raichlen 86 L’CHAIM Wines that pair perfectly with chicken 88 PROFILE The Chef’s Garden 96 TRAVEL Indonesia 108 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Goose Bay Winery 112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE Coal-roasted kabocha squash

104 SOMETHING SWEET

Ice cream sandwiches

THE SUMMER ISSUE

EDITOR'S LETTER

Always something new.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

I HAVE BEEN producing food magazines for the past 11 years and ‘edited-in-chiefed’ over 100 issues of food magazines. Each time a new magazine hits the shelves, the most common question I get is, “How are you going to top this one?

Where do you get your ideas from?” There is a genuine concern that I will run out of ideas.

Honestly, I have yet to come to a point where it was a struggle to put together an issue for lack of ideas and that is because there is always so much to learn. I am always surprised by this, because I sometimes think I've seen it all. But stumbling upon new food information, recipes, ingredients and food cultures is the most exciting part of producing Fleishigs Magazine During the summer of COVID many restaurants started to do multi-community deliveries to remain afloat. This was a fun way for new communities to be exposed to food they may not have really tried otherwise. One summer evening, my husband Shlomo ordered from a humble spot in Rego Park, Queens (which happens to be the most diverse food city in NY) called Ganey Orly and we really enjoyed the plov, bash, unique bread, tangy carrot salad and various skewers that came with our order. (See pg. 58 for

our Bucharian restaurant guide.) It opened up an interest in Bucharian food and culture and inspired this month's Shabbat feast (pg. 44) by Bucharian businesswoman Chagit Leviev.

When globetrotter Noa Levy shared her experience traveling to Indonesia (see pg. 96) I was immediately intrigued

by Indonesian cuisine and developed summer recipes inspired by the flavors and ingredients of this Southeast Asian archipelago. I didn't have to search far to get some really awesome challah inspiration from challah creative genius Mandy Silverman, who created a grilled challah recipe (pg. 62) that blew my mind.

Trends are ever changing and the wave of the future is undoubtedly vegetable-focused diets, with an explosion of vegetable-focused cooking, cookbooks and recipes. We share grill expert Steven Raichlen’s latest book How to Grill Vegetables, as well as The Chef’s Garden by Farmer Lee Jones and the unlikely friendship of a farmer from Ohio and a Chassidic Jew from Brooklyn (see pg. 88).

Bitayavon, Shifra

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Mushkah Haskelevich Alana Popowitz CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.

Dear eater of meat, rejector of milk, words to you we bring and the ability to try a plethora of new things. Your kitchen skills we hone, allowing you to make dishes good down to the bone.

Our pictures are fly, our recipes easy, our lemons squeezy. Our articles, like a good babka, are layered and juicy. You see, it’s all for you — the one who reads, makes, bakes and takes the cake.

This issue was designed to the eccentric stylings of Vancouver Sleep Clinic, Smelly Cat and Phoebe Bridgers.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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RESOURCE GUIDE OF UNIQUE INGREDIENTS FOUND THROUGHOUT THE ISSUE.

REIS OR KOKUHO MEDIUM GRAIN RICE Medium grain rice is the recommended choice for Bucharian cooking according to Chagit Leviev (read more on page 44). Otherwise known as round rice, the starchy rice cooks fairly quickly and results in a creamy, silky texture. (Arborio rice is an easy substitute if these brands cannot be found.) Certified kosher

by Star K.

ORGANIC THREE GRAIN TEMPEH Tempeh, the fermented soybean product featured on page 76, is a fantastic source of protein and takes on the flavor of any marinade.

While tempeh can be found in many varieties (including gluten-free), we prefer the Lightlife or Trader Joe’s three grain tempeh, made with barley, brown rice and millet, for the quality and texture. Certified kosher by OK.

NATURAL EARTH PRODUCTS RICE NOODLES These dried, gluten-free rice noodles cook in no time when immersed in boiling water — no pot or fire needed! Alternatively, fry raw noodles for a deliciously crunchy accompaniment to the lettuce wraps featured on page 38. This 8.8-ounce package includes four individual bricks of dried noodles for convenience. Triple kosher certified by OU and CRC.

GAIA COFFEE ROASTERS ARTISANAL COFFEE RUB FOR POULTRY This coffee-based rub, formulated specifically for poultry, adds a delicious flavor profile to the Alabama-style grilled chicken on page 28. It’s all natural and contains no added sugar, salt or preservatives. Certified kosher by OK.

GEFEN WHOLE PEELED COOKED RED BEETS Shelf-stable cooked beets are the ultimate shortcut for foolproof salads, such as the one on page 50. Keep a few bags in the pantry for whenever the mood strikes — all of the flavor, none of the mess. Certified kosher by OU.

PAM GRILL SPRAY Non-stick spray is a kitchen essential and this nonflammable spray, specially formulated for high temperatures like those on the grill, makes cleanup a breeze. Certified kosher by OK.

THE CHEF’S GARDEN PRODUCE Shop a wide array of fresh, seasonal herbs and produce (chefs-garden.com and farmerjonesfarm.com) that can be shipped nationwide directly from The Chef’s Garden farm in Ohio (read more on page 88). Options range from classic choices like greens and carrots to edible flowers and delicate microgreens, as well as vegetable boxes and subscription options. To further The Chef’s Garden’s commitment to community service, there is also an option to donate a box of fresh vegetables to those in need.

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B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z

CUTCO SUPER SHEARS These multi-purpose shears are ideal for anything from delicate gardening to spatchcocking chicken (see page 30). Available in three colors — black, white and red — and backed by Cutco’s lifetime guarantee.

cutco.com | $117

THE ORIGINAL BEAR PAWS SHREDDER CLAWS

OXO GOOD GRIPS LARGE SILICONE BASTING BRUSH This 16-inch basting brush is a key tool when basting proteins, vegetables and even challah (see page 62) on the grill.

The long, heat-resistant handle and bristles allow you to work swiftly and safely over an open flame.

bedbathandbeyond.com | $15.99

NON-STICK GRILL GRIDS

Easily shred rotisserie chicken (see Back Pocket feature on page 34) with these heat-resistant and dishwashersafe claws. Can also be used to lift proteins off the grill for easy and safe handling.

This set of two (11x14-inch and 7x11-inch) grill grids is an efficient way to cook fish (like the whole branzino on page 76) and vegetables on the grill with little mess.

amazon.com | $12.95

RUBBERMAID STAINLESS STEEL TEMPERATURE GAUGE

REYNOLDS KITCHEN OVEN COOKING BAGS As recommended by Chagit Leviev, oven bags are essential for cooking rice dishes, such as bachsh (see page 53) — a staple in Bucharian cuisine. The bags, which are available in multiple sizes and quantities, lock in moisture, keeping rice and chicken from drying out.

Available at most supermarkets and chain retailers; prices vary based on size and quantity.

crateandbarrel.com | $29.95

The next best thing to a built-in thermometer on a grill is a temperature gauge such as this durable stainless steel version. With readings between 70°F/20°C and 570°F/300°C, it easily attaches to a grill (or oven) and takes the guesswork out of grilling. See page 78 for more grilling tips.

amazon.com | $8.50 *Prices reflected are as of print time; prices, especially on Amazon, can change often.

Each month we offer a Culinary School Demo in partnership with AJ Madison to showcase cutting edge appliances along with critical culinary skills.

This month's guest expert was pit boss Sruli Eidelman of Izzy’s Smokehouse (izzyssmokehouse.com). He shared step-by-step instructions to spatchcock a chicken (see page 30) and a tangy, savory Alabama white sauce to smother on the hot grilled chicken (see page 28 for the recipe).

During the demo, Sruli cooked on the Wolf outdoor gas grill and it was one impressive grilling experience. He used the powerful 25,000 BTU infrared sear zone to get an amazing sear on the chicken that resulted in crispy chicken skin and then moved the chicken to the other side of the grill to get the ideal juicy, perfectly-cooked chicken. Because the grill has two separate BTU burners, he was able to utilize one side for direct grilling and the other for indirect grilling. See more on this technique in our butcher’s cut section (page 22). For more information on the Wolf grill, visit ajmadison.com or on Instagram @ajmadison.

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Not into gas? Looking for a charcoal grilling experience?

Weber Original Kettle Premium 22" is a wonderful choice. It has a hinged cooking grate for easily adding charcoal while grilling. The porcelain enameled lid retains heat consistently well and the built in thermometer displays the internal temperature of your grill. We have been grilling on this grill for over five years now and even used it to charcoal grill a whole kabocha squash (see page 114).

A crucial add-on to this grill is the Weber Rapidfire Chimney Starter which allows you to heat up the coals easily.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

MY FAVORITE PART of the chicken is the wing flat — the two-boned section of the wing. If I can’t have just wings, my next preference would be a whole chicken and here’s why. Firstly, generally speaking, the dark meat folks and the white meat folks can have their favorites and dinnertime peace can be achieved. Secondly, extra bits of skin and fat can be trimmed and tucked away to render for gribenes or schmaltz. Finally, keeping the skin intact over the whole bird means maximum opportunity for crispiness and flavor. Plus, for all of these benefits, a whole bird is also going to cost a little less per pound than cut up parts. Not bad.

SIZE Let’s talk size for a minute. On a 3-pound bird, the thigh, drumstick or breast can be served as individual portions. On a smaller bird, someone with a hearty appetite might eat the thigh and the leg. Very small birds, called cornish hens, can be served one per person (they generally weigh 1-1½ pounds each). They’re tender and festive, but a little harder to eat because of all the bones. Larger birds can be carved like turkey or the breasts can be cut into two portions before serving. Generally, a larger bird will be more flavorful, but a smaller one will yield more tender meat. You may also come across a large bird called a capon. Technically, capons are castrated roosters specially fed for tenderness, but most birds labeled “capon” are in fact just large regular chickens.

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POULTRY TYPES You might also wonder about different kinds of poultry. “Pastured” chicken is raised outdoors on pasture with room to forage and move around. It has a deeper flavor and the dark meat has more texture because the birds get more exercise. “Organic” indicates that the birds’ feed, which includes grain and legumes, is certified organic, but doesn’t indicate how the birds are raised. If poultry is labeled “natural,” that doesn’t mean very much, as all poultry could be called natural. Hormones are not allowed in poultry production in the United States, but antibiotics are regularly used in conventional poultry production because their living conditions can make them prone to infection. Chicken that is not labeled “pastured” or “raised on pasture” is likely raised indoors in sheds.

COOKING TIPS When roasting a whole bird, I prefer to carefully separate the skin from the flesh near the base of the neck and squeeze in a paste of garlic, herbs and spices to baste the meat as it cooks. In the summer, a quick snip with poultry shears to open up the bird (called “spatchcock” or “butterfly”) allows me to lay the whole thing on the grill for even cooking. It can also be cooked low and slow in the oven — 300°F at convection roast — until the skin is crisp and dark meat is tender, about 45-60 minutes. Add some potatoes and onions to the pan to catch the juices as it cooks, pour yourself a drink and relax. Dinner is on the way.

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LOW & SLOW

BUTCHER'S CUT

IN PURSUIT OF THE PERFECT GRILLED WHOLE CHICKEN

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BY: CHEF J O N AT H A N CHODOSH

E ALL KNOW the summer fantasy — kids splashing in the pool, music in the air, a cold beer in hand and you, front and center, grilling a centerpiece chicken with finesse (and not a drop of sweat). You know, like the commercial with the sweating glass of lemonade and the guy with the apron at the grill. A flame flashes into the frame and somehow the screen portrays the delicious aroma of grilled chicken.

Suddenly, it feels just like unachievable Hollywood magic. The grill is too hot, the chicken is dry, overcooked and, too often, charred (to put it gently). That’s because grilling anything can be tricky. Grills are hotter than a stove and heat is blasted at the food from one direction.

Every seasoned grill has the characteristic hot spot known to burn everything. And no matter how well-equipped a grill is, it is always inconveniently located far from typical kitchen tools such as a garbage can, sink or utensils. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Here are some tried-and-true techniques (and some food knowledge) to make your summer grilling fantasies come true.

Most cooking is an exercise in heat transfer. Sounds nerdy? Well, it is. The bottom line is that the heat first moves into the exterior of the food and then conducts through it towards the center. That is why thin cuts of meat cook much faster than thicker pieces of the same weight. If the heat is high relative to the thickness of the food, the heat gathers on the exterior before it has time to conduct (pass through) to the rest of the meat. This is how we get a brick of overcooked chicken.

When I was studying food science in college, we did an experiment with soy sauce-marinated eggs. We took two hard boiled eggs, peeled one completely and cracked the other one all over. Both eggs were then submerged in diluted soy sauce and left to marinate for two days.

When we took them out and peeled the cracked egg, we observed that the cracked egg had streaks of soy permeating through the

HERE ARE MY TWO GROUND RULES FOR SUCCESSFULLY GRILLING POULTRY 24

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MOST COOKING IS AN EXERCISE IN HEAT TRANSFER.

cracks, where the fully peeled egg was brown and completely saturated with soy sauce. We could see how slowly and gently the flavor penetrated the cracked egg — the flow of soy sauce was controlled over time by reducing access through the porous, but protective shell.

This is exactly what you want to happen on the grill.

Whole chicken is different from any other protein that we cook. As poultry, it needs to cook to 165°F, as opposed to 145°F for well done steak. A chicken contains many bones, causing it to take longer to cook. Lastly, chicken has multiple parts of varying toughness, thickness and fat content. The challenge is juggling all of these variables with the same recipe at the same time.

Lower the heat.

Indirect heat is essential.

When grilling chicken, keep your grill on low-to-medium heat, rather than the high heat you use for burgers and red meat. One of the most significant culinary lessons I received in school is to cook food gently; my chef professor emphasized that you should use high heat for two things — searing meat and boiling water. Cooking over high heat for a while will burn everything else and the grill is no exception. With a charcoal grill, spread out fewer lit coals and limit your air flow to prevent overheating.

This technique is when you have the heat and food on opposite sides of the grill, effectively using the grill as an oven. This is how most smoked food is made and you can create your own “smoked” chicken even without a smoker. I became most familiar with this method when I was practicing for a Kansas City Barbeque Society Competition under the name Hava Nagrilla, one of the only kosher KCBS competitions in the country. Over a low flame, my competition chicken smoked for four hours and my award-winning brisket smoked overnight for a full 18 hours. www.fleishigs.com

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BUTCHER'S CUT

ONCE YOU’RE COMFORTABLE WITH THE GRILL, NOW IT’S TIME TO TALK BIRD.

Brine, brine, brine!

In its purest form, a brine is salt water. I say it’s an opportunity to inject flavor into the meat. A brine that will assist the meat in absorbing salt and water, which makes it more forgiving to high heat temperatures and gives some extra insurance against overcooked chicken. You can make your own brine or use a store bought one. My go-to version for any chicken dish is simple — pickle juice straight from the jar.

Spatchcock.

When you are cooking a whole chicken but are short on time, a spatchcocked chicken is the way to go. Spatchcocking is a butchering technique where the backbone is removed, then the chicken is flattened. This increases the surface contact with the grill. While removing the backbone requires a little practice, the easiest tool for the job is basic kitchen shears, which you likely have sitting in the back of your utensil drawer.

Bring the beer.

Another great recipe for chicken is known as the beer can method.

The goal is to slow the cooking of the white meat by adding extra mass with a can full of liquid to the cavity, which is closest to the white meat (the part that tends to be the driest). Without the beer can, the slowest cooking part of the chicken is the thigh. Using this method allows the fattier and more forgiving thigh to reach 165°F before the lean white meat dries out. The extra mass of the can and liquid not only creates a steam bath of delicious flavors inside the chicken cavity, but also sets you up for success by increasing the time necessary to cook the white meat by nearly 10 minutes, which is years in grilled chicken time. This is not a quick method, but gives you time to walk away and leaves you with a juicy, almost rotisserie-style chicken. As a bonus, you can also fit more food on your grill this way than any other method of grilling chicken since it occupies space vertically, instead of horizontally, letting you fill your grill to its maximum capacity.

Jonathan Chodosh is the owner of Nerdy Dad Foods, a gourmet food company that delivers the best pestos, dips and more directly to your door. You can learn about his products at nerdydadfoods.com. In addition to creating allergen friendly foods, Jonathan, who resides in Bala Cynwyd, PA, is a practicing food scientist, private chef and dad to three humans and one dog. He actually reads his Instagram messages, so message him with your food conundrums @nerdydadfoods.

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Wine Can Chicken Serves: 4 S H I F R A’S N OT E : After all the shopping and prep work we had done for the shoot, as we were just about ready to make Jonathan’s beer can chicken recipe, we realized beer did not make it onto the shopping list. Luckily, we had some cans of Bartenura moscato and J. Folk rosé in the house, so we used that instead and it worked wonderfully.

However, feel free to make this chicken with any can of bubbly drink you have on hand.

3

1

1 1

1

cubes frozen sautéed onions (such as Dorot), defrosted tablespoon coarseground mustard teaspoon kosher salt (3-4 pound) whole chicken (12-ounce) can wine, beer or soda

1. Combine onions, mustard and salt and rub all over the inside and outside of the chicken.

2. Heat grill to medium heat.

Open the can of rosé and take a sip or pour off just a little. Gently insert the beer can into the cavity of the chicken and place over medium heat. Cook for 30 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 165°F.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Alabama-Style Spatchcocked Chicken Serves: 4

By: Sruly Eidelman

Alabama white sauce is a mayonnaise-based sauce that rivals the classic barbecue sauce we all know and love. It is slightly sweet, spicy and tangy all at once and is absolutely delicious with grilled chicken. The sauce can be made up to 24 hours in advance.

The longer it sits, the better, giving the ingredients a chance to meld together for optimal flavor.

1 ¼ 2 2 1 1 1 ¼ 1 2

1. Combine mayonnaise, apple cider vinegar, horseradish, sugar, lemon juice, salt, pepper and cayenne. Thin out with up to ½ cup water, until desired consistency is reached. Set aside.

chicken over indirect heat for 20 minutes on one side, then flip and grill for 15 minutes on the other side. Place over direct heat for an additional 3-5 minutes per side, just until slightly charred.

2. Rub chicken all over with spice rub, making sure to get under the skin as well.

4. Baste chicken with white sauce while still hot. Cut chicken into quarters or eighths and serve with remaining sauce.

3. Heat one side of the grill to 500°F. Grill

cup mayonnaise cup apple cider vinegar heaping tablespoons prepared horseradish tablespoons sugar teaspoon lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon cayenne pepper (3-4 pound) spatchcocked chicken tablespoons spice rub of choice

WATCH CHEF & PITBOSS SRULY EIDELMAN

of

IZZY’S SMOKEHOUSE (@IZZYSBBQ)

spatchcock and grill a chicken live on Fleishigs’ Instagram page (@fleishigsmag) or YouTube channel.

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BACK POCKET

A rotisserie chicken is one of the most underrated supermarket buys. There are unlimited ways to use it and we love it for its ease and versatility, especially when you want to avoid being in a hot kitchen all day.

All of the following recipes can be eaten cold or at room temperature, which makes them great choices for a light Shabbos lunch or even shalosh seudot. They also serve as excellent weeknight dinner options and travel really well, so feel free to pack up a picnic to bring to the park on a long summer day!

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BACK POCKET

Cluckin delicious Spicy Pulled Chicken Sandwiches Serves: 4-6

¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2

4-6

cup soy sauce cup sambal oelek (chili garlic sauce) cup ketchup cup maple syrup cup fish-free Worcestershire sauce cups shredded rotisserie chicken, skin discarded Fresh Coleslaw (recipe follows) toasted buns

1. Add soy sauce, sambal oelek, ketchup, maple syrup and Worcestershire sauce to a saucepan over medium-low heat and stir until bubbling. Add shredded chicken, toss to coat and cook for 5-7 minutes, until chicken is heated through.

2. Top the bottoms of the buns with a spoonful of coleslaw, then a heaping spoonful of chicken. Close buns and serve immediately.

Classic Coleslaw Toss 2 cups shredded white cabbage with 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Let sit for 2 minutes, then squeeze out excess water. Add ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon lemon juice or rice vinegar and 1 teaspoon maple syrup. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

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BACK POCKET

Curried Chicken Salad Serves: 6

There’s nothing quite like a curried chicken salad, which is perfect for a cold Shabbos meal on a hot summer day. This salad is best served immediately but can be dressed up to 4 hours ahead.

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½ ½ ¼ 3 1 1 ½ ¼

cup olive oil cup mayonnaise teaspoon white vinegar teaspoons curry powder teaspoon maple syrup teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon ground black pepper

2 ½

3 1 5 ¾ ½

cups cubed rotisserie chicken, skin discarded stalks diced celery cup chopped fresh parsley green onions, thinly sliced cup golden raisins cup toasted cashews or almonds, chopped

1. Whisk olive oil, mayonnaise, vinegar, curry powder, maple syrup, salt, garlic powder and pepper.

2. Combine chicken, celery, parsley, green onions and raisins. Gently toss with dressing until evenly coated. Top with nuts just before serving.

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BACK POCKET

Crunchy Cabbage Salad with Crispy Shallots and Peanuts Serves: 4-8

¼ ¼ ¼

1

6 5-6 ½ ½ ¾ 2 ½

cup maple syrup cup warm water cup soy sauce Juice of 2 limes tablespoon sambal oelek (chili garlic sauce) Vegetable oil, for frying shallots, thinly sliced, divided cups shredded napa cabbage cup fresh mint, chopped cup fresh cilantro, chopped cup shredded carrots cups shredded rotisserie chicken, skin discarded cup roasted peanuts, roughly chopped

1. Dissolve maple syrup in warm water, then whisk in soy sauce, lime juice and sambal oelek. Set aside.

2. Prepare two plates lined with paper towels. Heat 2 inches of vegetable oil in a saucepan. Add 2 sliced shallots and fry until lightly golden brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate to drain. Fry again for about 2-4 seconds, until deeply golden brown, then transfer to the second paper towel-lined plate to drain.

3. Combine cabbage, herbs, carrots, remaining sliced shallots and chicken. Toss with dressing, then top with fried shallots and peanuts. Serve immediately.

Curried Chicken Salad Wraps Place a leaf of romaine lettuce in the lower third of a large flour tortilla and top with a scoop of curried chicken salad. Fold the sides over the filling, then bring the bottom flap over the sides. Roll the tortilla while holding the filling tightly in place.

Slice in half diagonally using a sharp knife and serve immediately. Alternatively, serve in Boston lettuce leaves.

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BACK POCKET

Chicken Lettuce Wraps with Puffed Rice Noodles Serves: 8 N OT E : To test the heat of the oil, place one noodle into the oil; if it puffs up in seconds, the oil is ready to be used. If not, wait a bit longer for the oil to heat up. The key to frying rice noodles is to work extremely swiftly and to not let the noodles brown.

1 ¼ 3 3 2 1

¼ 1 ½

2 2 1 2 2 3 8 2 ½ 4 1

cup soy sauce cup rice vinegar tablespoons nut butter tablespoons maple syrup tablespoons freshly grated ginger tablespoon sambal oelek (chili garlic sauce), optional teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon cornstarch package dried rice noodles Vegetable oil, for frying tablespoons olive oil tablespoons sesame oil large onion, finely diced cloves garlic, finely minced carrots, diced stalks celery, diced ounces shiitake mushrooms, finely chopped cups cubed rotisserie chicken, skin discarded cup chopped cashews scallions, thinly sliced large head iceberg or butter lettuce

1. Whisk soy sauce, rice vinegar, nut butter, maple syrup, ginger, sambal oelek and pepper. Dissolve cornstarch with about 2 tablespoons of water, then whisk into the sauce. Set aside.

2. Separate rice noodles into small bundles. Prepare a plate lined with paper towels and set aside.

Heat about 2 inches of oil in a deep sauté pan or wok until it reaches 350°F. Working in batches, fry the bundles of rice noodles for about 2-5 seconds, until white and puffed. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer to the prepared paper towel-lined plate. Continue until all noodles are puffed.

3. Heat olive oil and sesame oil in the pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and garlic and sauté until translucent and browned around the edges, about 5-7 minutes. Add carrots and celery and cook until slightly tender, about 3-5 minutes.

Add mushrooms and sauté until softened slightly, about 2 minutes. Lower heat and add sauce. Cook until thickened slightly, about 2-3 minutes, thinning out with water, 1-2 tablespoons at a time, if necessary.

4. Add chicken and cashews and toss to coat. Mix in scallions. Serve with lettuce leaves and puffed rice noodles.

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Adina Silberman is a dentist by trade, but has always had a passion for food, taking inspiration from the elements that compose a dish rather than the final product. Adina thinks outside the box and cooks with seasonal ingredients, substituting easily and as needed. She is currently working on a series called “Portion to Plate,” which pairs weekly insights into the Torah portion together with tasty, inspired recipes. Adina lives in Chicago with her husband and daughter. She shares techniques for developing kitchen staples on Instagram @homewithadina and has helped countless home cooks transform their time in the kitchen from a chore into a passion.

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BACK POCKET

Spiced Chicken Bourekas Yield: 8 bourekas

These bourekas are the perfect hand-held meal, but feel free to make them smaller for bite-sized appetizers.

A LT E R N AT I V E P R E PA R AT I O N : Place a sheet of puff pastry on a work surface and fill the center with chicken filling, leaving a 1½-inch border on both sides. Cut ½-inch strips along the edge of the pastry, then fold strips over the center, creating a braid-like loaf. Proceed with the egg wash per the recipe instructions, extending cook time by 10 minutes, until pastry is puffed and golden brown.

2 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ ½ ¼ 1 3

tablespoons olive oil large onion, thinly sliced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon turmeric teaspoon ground cloves tablespoon + 1 teaspoon maple syrup, divided cups shredded rotisserie chicken, skin discarded 1 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped ½ cup fresh cilantro, finely chopped ½ cup toasted almonds, coarsely chopped 2 sheets puff pastry, rolled and cut into 4 squares each 1 egg ½ cup slivered almonds Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and salt and sauté until softened and golden brown, about 5-7 minutes. Add ginger, garlic, powder, cinnamon, pepper, turmeric and cloves. Sauté for another 2-3 minutes.

3. Add 1 tablespoon maple syrup and ½ cup water, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.

Bring to a boil, then reduce by about half. Add shredded chicken and toss to coat. Cover pan and cook for about 5 minutes, until chicken is heated through. Add herbs and chopped almonds; toss to combine.

4. Evenly divide the chicken filling between the puff pastry squares. Using your finger or a pastry brush, moisten the edges of each square with water. Fold each square diagonally to form triangles, then crimp edges with a fork. Transfer pastries to the prepared baking sheets.

5. In a small bowl, beat egg with remaining 1 teaspoon maple syrup and brush the tops of the pastries with the egg wash. Top with a sprinkle of slivered almonds.

Bake for 30-40 minutes, until the pastries are puffed and golden brown. Sprinkle pastries with confectioners' sugar just before serving.

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n a world where women often feel they have to choose between prioritizing work or family, you might not expect to find the CEO of a large corporation spending her Fridays in the kitchen, cooking a multitude of dishes for Shabbat from scratch. But for Chagit Leviev, CEO and president of the investment firm Leviev Group USA, there was no question of sacrificing either of her passions. Leviev grew up as one of nine in an Israeli-Bucharian household, the child of a wellknown businessman who spent his time traveling the globe for work. While the value of success in business was prominent in her upbringing, the importance of Shabbat and time-honored traditions was equally so.

“No matter where in the world he was, my father would always come home for Shabbat,” recalls Leviev.

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abundance of homemade dishes and surrounded by guests, but Leviev says it was the preparations for the day that helped make it so meaningful. “Many of the classic Bucharian dishes are very time consuming to prepare,” she adds.

“All of my siblings were involved — each child would choose something that they loved to make, whether it was a salad, dessert or, in my case, individually wrapped delicacies like pelmeni, dushpera (both types of dumplings) and godgedja/samsa (bourekas stuffed with meat and onions).”

Years later, Leviev would find herself married with kids, running the U.S. operation of her family business in New York, where unlike Israel, Friday is expected to be a regular work day. “When I grew up, Fridays were completely dedicated to preparing for Shabbat. Although for a while I tried to work the full day in the office, it just didn’t feel right,” she says. “It’s important to me to invest that time into my family — not just to enjoy the day off itself but to invest that effort into preparing those traditional dishes that make it special, so that my children can cherish those same sweet memories that I had.” It takes a lot of work, Leviev admits, but she knows from her own experiences as a child that sometimes it’s the work itself that cements those www.fleishigs.com

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values and priorities. “There is no such thing as takeout,” she adds. “Not when I was a kid and not now. Everything is made from scratch.”

Figuring out how to balance Shabbat prep with her busy work life proved to be quite the challenge. On a typical Friday you’ll find Leviev in the kitchen with her laptop set up nearby, making Bucharian Shabbat staples like bachsh (rice with herbs and meat) and oshpiozi (stuffed onions) in between conference calls and emails regarding investments in diamonds, real estate and technology.

“I have to learn how to train my kids the way my mother did,” adds Leviev, whose kids range in ages from three to 12. “It can be a little bit like training a new employee — sometimes it feels easier to just do everything yourself.

It takes a lot of patience to get the kids involved, but I know how important it is.

They might make some mistakes (and messes) at first, but ultimately they will learn how to do it on their own, and more importantly, to love and value the process as much as I do.”

As much as she loves all of the traditional Bucharian dishes she grew up with, Leviev knows that part of finding that balance is choosing which dishes she has time for on a busy Friday.

With a typical menu consisting of over 10 salads, four or five main dishes, plus sides and several desserts, making

individually assembled and folded dumplings just isn’t practical. When she does carve out time for a project, she’ll always make extra for the freezer to have on hand for another busy week.

Much like the table of her youth, you’ll often find Leviev’s table packed with guests of all types. “I love to host and Shabbat is a great opportunity to have people over,” she says. “But you can’t forget what’s most important — using that special time to reconnect with your family after a hectic week and give the kids personal attention. I make all the same dishes whether we’re having guests or not, because Shabbat and tradition is sacred and I’m never going to take away from that.”

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain.

You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

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OSHPIOZI Serves: 8

These stuffed onions may take a bit of effort to prepare, but are a real delicacy in Bucharian cuisine.

The sauce is sweet and tangy and pairs perfectly with the delicious meatstuffed onions. For an easy shortcut, use store bought parboiled rice.

N OT E : The secret here is to grate an onion with all of its juices directly over the ground beef, resulting in the most delicious meat.

⅓ 3 8 4 ¼ 1 ¼ 1½ 1½ 1

cup round rice, rinsed tablespoons oil, divided onions, divided prunes, halved cup tomato paste, divided pound ground beef cup chopped fresh cilantro teaspoons cumin teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Parboil the rice for 5 minutes, then drain.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Dice 1 onion and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add prunes and 2 tablespoons tomato paste and sauté for another 3 minutes. Add 2 cups water, then set aside to cool.

3. Grate 1 onion directly over the ground beef and mix in parboiled rice, cilantro, remaining 2 tablespoons tomato paste, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, cumin, salt and pepper.

4. Peel remaining 6 onions and slice off the top and bottom.

Slice each onion from the top down, until you reach the center, then place in a pot and cover with water. Cover pot and bring to a boil. Boil for 10-15 minutes, until onions soften. Drain and let cool, then separate layers.

5. Stuff each layer of onion with meat mixture, squeezing gently to close. Arrange in a 9-inch baking dish.

6. Pour sauce over onions. Sauce should cover the onions most of the way, but add water if needed. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 1½ hours.

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BEET SALAD Serves: 6

Dice pre-cooked packaged beets (such as Gefen) for an easy shortcut.

N OT E : Peel the cooked beets while still warm — the peel should come off easily, just make sure to wear gloves!

3 beets 1½ tablespoons olive oil, divided 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 Vidalia onion, thinly sliced 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley Juice of 2 lemons 1 teaspoon cumin 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place beets on individual sheets of foil, drizzle with ½ tablespoon olive oil and season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Place on a baking sheet and cook for 1-1½ hours, until fork tender.

2. While still warm, carefully rub the peel off the beets. Let cool, then dice.

3. Toss beets with sliced onions, herbs, lemon juice, cumin and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper.

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days.

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MOHIBIR’YON Serves: 8

This is a Bucharian fried fish dish traditionally made with carp, but I prefer a milder fish like flounder or cod. The trick to the sauce is using boiling water to mellow out the garlic and create a loose paste that is then combined with fresh herbs and salt to taste. The freshness of the sauce pairs perfectly with the fried dish.

⅓ 1½ 1 ½ 8

½ 8 1

cup vegetable oil cups all-purpose flour teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper fillets flounder, sole, cod or white fish of choice cup boiling water cloves garlic, minced bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

1. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over mediumhigh heat.

2. Mix flour, salt and pepper on a plate, then lightly dredge fish, shaking off the excess. Fry for 4 minutes on one side. Flip fish and cook for another 2-3 minutes, until golden brown.

3. Pour boiling water over garlic and stir with a fork. Add cilantro and season with salt to taste.

Serve with fried fish.

FRIED EGGPLANT Serves: 6-10 as an appetizer

1 eggplant Oil, for frying 4 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro ½ cup chopped fresh dill ¼ cup ketchup Juice of 1 lemon ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Cut eggplant into ¼-inch slices.

2. Prepare a plate lined with paper towels.

Heat about 2 inches of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and fry eggplant until golden, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate to drain.

Alternatively, arrange eggplant on a baking sheet, drizzle with oil and cook in a 400°F oven for 20-25 minutes.

3. Combine garlic, cilantro, dill, ketchup, ¼ cup water, lemon juice, salt and pepper and pour over warm eggplant.

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BACHSH Serves: 8

This method for bachsh uses an oven bag. The rice can be served plain or stuffed into a whole chicken. Don’t panic if the external layer of the rice is crispy — that’s the best part! We love to add some chopped lamb fat or chicken liver for a richer flavor.

1 1 3 2 ⅓ 1½ ¾ 2 1 ½

pound shoulder steak, cubed large onion, chopped scallions, chopped cups round rice, rinsed cup oil cups chopped fresh cilantro cup chopped fresh dill teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon cumin teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine meat, onions, scallions, rice, oil, herbs, salt, cumin and pepper in an oven bag, then tie it and place into an oven-safe baking dish. Cook for 1 hour.

2. Flip the bag, reduce oven temperature to 320°F and cook for another hour. To serve, open the bag and transfer bachsh to a large serving platter.

B U L K I T U P:

Season 1 cornish hen with 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add half the rice mixture to the bag, then place cornish hen inside followed by the remaining rice mixture.

Cook as directed above.

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OSHSVO Serves: 8-12

This dish is the Bucharian version of Ashkenazi cholent and a must have in my house on Shabbat. ¼ cup oil 1 onion, chopped 1 carrot, grated 1½ pounds cholent meat (such as shin meat or beef cheek) 1½ pounds meaty lamb or beef bones 1 tomato, grated 1 green apple, grated Juice of ½ lemon 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground turmeric, optional 1 teaspoon ground ginger, optional 3 prunes 2 cups round rice, rinsed 2-3 times 1. Heat oil in a pot over mediumhigh heat. Add onions and carrots and sauté for a few minutes. Add meat and bones and brown on all sides. Add grated tomato and apple and sauté for another 3-5 minutes.

2. Add 6½ cups water, lemon juice, salt and spices, if desired. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. Stir in prunes and rice. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes, until water is absorbed and rice is cooked.

3. Place the pot on the blech before Shabbat, not directly over the heat. Add more water before Shabbat as needed so that it doesn’t dry out.

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PAVLOVA Serves: 6

6 1½ 3 1½

1½ 1

2 2

egg whites cups extra fine sugar teaspoons corn flour teaspoons teaspoons vanilla extract teaspoons white vinegar (8-ounce) container non-dairy cream (such as Rich’s) teaspoons vanilla sugar tablespoons water Mixed berries and passion fruit, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

2. Beat egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer until stiff. Add sugar gradually, 1 tablespoon at a time, followed by corn flour, vanilla and vinegar.

3. Spoon meringue onto the prepared baking sheet in a large 12-inch circle approximately 2 inches high. Alternatively, create small pavlovas for individual portions.

4. Place in the oven and immediately reduce temperature to 280°F. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.

Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

5. Wipe the bowl clean and add non-dairy cream. Beat until stiff peaks form, then add vanilla sugar.

Beat for another minute until combined.

6. To serve, place pavlova on a serving platter, spread the whipped cream in the center and top with mixed berries and passion fruit.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

FOR OUR SHABBAT FEAST feature, we showcased Bucharian cuisine, inspired by the upbringing of businesswoman Chagit Leviev. Bucharian Jews, one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world, have inhabited Central Asia (specifically Uzbekistan) for over 2,500 years. In fact, there are records that indicate the presence of Jews as far back as King David’s time traveling to the region for trade. Having settled there for so long while maintaining their Jewish identity speaks to the strength of the Jewish nation and its traditions. During that time, Bucharian Jews developed unique foods that reflected ingredients from the region to celebrate Jewish traditions like Shabbat and holidays.

There aren't many authentic Bucharian restaurants in the United States, but most are located in the New York City region, largely due to the large concentration of Bucharian Jewish population. These restaurants give a glimpse into the classically homemade flavorful dishes that make the cuisine so memorable and delicious.

While all offer a variety of Middle Eastern food, such as falafel, mixed grill and shawarma, it is well worth exploring the Bucharian menu offerings.

BACHSH Rice and meat dish seasoned with herbs (see page 53 for Chagit's recipe) PLOV Rice, meat and carrot dish MANTI & PELMENI Dumplings SAMSA (A.K.A. SAMOSA) Meat pie LAMB CHOPS OR SHISH KEBAB Typically served with raw onions

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BUCHARIAN RESTAURANT LIST

King Solomon Restaurant 1787 Coney Island Ave. Brooklyn, NY (718) 975-7676 Certified kosher under Vaad of Flatbush

Da Mikelle 102-51 Queens Blvd.

Queens, NY (718) 830-0500 Certified kosher under Vaad of Queens

Ganey Orly 65-37 99th St. Rego Park, NY (718) 459-1638 Certified kosher under Vaad of Queens

Taam Tov 41 W 47th St. New York, NY (212) 768-8001 Certified kosher under OU

Sultan Kosher Palace 18250 Collins Ave. Sunny Isles Beach, FL (305) 974-0545 Certified kosher under Kosher Miami

Shirin Glatt Kosher 48 E. Flagler St. Miami, FL (786) 615-5610 Certified kosher under Kosher Miami

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BREAKING BREAD

Summer Shabbat is the most fun. With a nice late start, it’s almost like you get a whole extra day of the week!

Less fun, though, is the super hot kitchen from using the oven all day to cook. As a relief, many turn to their grill to cook their entire Shabbat meal – that way, they can enjoy the beautiful weather while keeping the heat outside. But what about the challah? Turns out you can cook challah directly on the grill! The end result is beyond delicious, with a crispy exterior and a warm chewy interior.

Sprinkle a little salt on the crust as it grills for a flavorful salted crust.

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Grilled Challah Yield: 3 challahs or 2 pizza crusts

1½ ½ 2 4¼ ½ 1

cups water cup canola oil teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling cups bread flour cup sugar tablespoon instant or bread machine yeast Olive oil, for basting

1. Add dry and wet ingredients to a bread machine in the order specified by the manufacturer. Set machine for “dough” cycle. Alternatively, combine all ingredients in a large bowl and knead for 5-7 minutes by hand or using the dough hook in a stand mixer. If dough is too sticky, add more flour, 1 tablespoon at a time; if too dry, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired

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consistency is reached. Allow dough to rise in a large bowl, covered with a towel, for 1½ hours.

2. Divide dough into 9 equal portions. On a floured surface, roll 3 portions into long ropes, carefully braid together and place on a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover with a towel and let rise for an additional 20-30 minutes.

3. Spray the grill with non-stick grill spray, then preheat a single burner to 400°F. Generously brush each challah with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt, if desired.

4. Place oiled challahs, braid side up, on the grill over indirect heat. Close and cook for 18-20 minutes. Brush the tops of the challahs with oil, flip, then close and cook for an additional 15-20 minutes, until golden.

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Grilled Sausage and Pepper Pizza Yield: 2 pizzas

Believe it or not, this challah dough recipe works wonderfully as pizza dough. For grilled challah pizza, nothing beats sausage and peppers.

Marinating peppers and onions for a few hours beforehand makes such a big difference to the final product. As opposed to the challah, be sure to grill pizza crust over direct heat for a char-grilled flavor.

2 2 1 2 ½ ¼ 2 ½ 1 1 ⅔

tablespoons olive oil, plus more for brushing tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoon sugar teaspoons dried oregano teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper bell peppers, thinly sliced red onion, thinly sliced recipe challah dough (recipe above) (12-ounce package) sweet Italian sausages cup marinara sauce Lemon Basil Aioli (recipe follows)

1. Combine olive oil, balsamic, sugar, oregano, salt and pepper and set aside. Add peppers and onions and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to marinate.

I USE AN EGG-FREE RECIPE whenever I make challahs on the grill. I find that the challahs are lighter and cook faster.

SIZE MATTERS – challah that is rolled too long is hard to flip on the grill and challah that is too short and thick may not cook through. This is why I recommend rolling the strands approximately 8-10-inches long.

GREASE THE GRILL grates before turning on the gas. There are nonstick sprays specifically for grilling that I recommend.

2. Follow instructions for the dough per the recipe. After the first (1½ hour) rise, divide dough in half. Roll each half into a 12-inch circle and place each circle onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush with olive oil and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.

3. Preheat grill to 375°F. Place peppers, onions and sausages on the grill (using a grill pan for the vegetables helps) and grill for 10 minutes, turning sausages halfway through. Slice sausages into ½-inch pieces and set aside.

4. Increase heat to 425°F and grease grates with non-stick grill spray.

Using the parchment paper, place the pizza crusts, oil side down, onto the grill directly over the flame (or grill one at a time if space is limited). Discard parchment paper and close the grill. Cook for 5 minutes, then brush the top of the crusts with oil.

5. Using a large spatula, flip crusts. Working quickly, spread marinara onto the crusts and top evenly with sausages, peppers and onions.

Close the grill and cook for an additional 5 minutes. To serve, drizzle aioli over pizzas.

Lemon Basil Aioli Blend ½ cup mayonnaise, ⅔ cup chopped fresh basil, zest and juice of 1 lemon, 2 minced garlic cloves, ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

TO PREVENT STICKING and to create a beautiful golden color, oil the bottom of the challah before placing it on the grill, then again before flipping it.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, COOK THE CHALLAH

OVER INDIRECT HEAT , not directly over a flame. This ensures a slow, even bake all the way through.

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Mandy Silverman founded Mandylicious in 2013 in Sharon, MA. Since then, she has created over 300 unique challah and babka recipes and has developed a worldwide following. In addition to selling challah and teaching classes, Mandy loves sharing her recipes and tips, while supporting others who want to make their own challah too. Follow Mandy on Instagram @mandyliciouschallah.

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SUMMER GRILLING

Grilled Branzino (recipe page 76)

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SUMMER GRILLING

I HAVE BEEN the designated griller for my family's legendary Sunday barbecues in upstate New York for years. I have learned a lot along the way and know my way around the grill, but I am always looking for new, fun flavors and grilling techniques. After reading about Noa Levy’s travel adventures to Indonesia (see page 96) and realizing that the kosher options in this Southeast Asian country are nearly nonexistent, my interest in Indonesian cuisine was piqued.

I began searching and landed on a 28-minute YouTube video by Mark Wiens, a famous travel and food vlogger, from his travels to Indonesia. It was a fascinating way to vicariously experience Indonesian food. I was excited to see that much of the food culture is surrounded by grilling, so I began cooking up Indonesian classics and fell in love with the flavors and textures of this dynamic cuisine.

Most of the basic building block ingredients of Indonesian cuisine are kosher, but because many sauces are made with shrimp paste, commercial sauces aren’t kosher. The following recipes are inspired by Indonesian cuisine and serve as a great introduction to the flavors and cooking style of this region.

To be completely honest, these recipes aren’t totally authentic, since they have been adapted to fit with kosher ingredients that can readily be found at a local supermarket.

To learn more about Indonesian cuisine, I strongly recommend the aforementioned video from Mark Wiens’ YouTube channel or search your local library’s database for Indonesian cookbooks — Coconut & Sambal: Recipes From My Indonesian Kitchen by Lara Lee is a great start.

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Chicken Satay Serves: 6-8

Satay, Indonesia’s version of kebabs, can truly be made with any protein that is marinated, skewered and grilled over high heat.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of versions out there, many being regional or familial, having been passed down from generations.

N OT E : For an easier preparation, marinate whole boneless, skinless chicken thighs and grill, adjusting cook time as needed.

1 3 2 1 2

cup kecap manis, plus more for serving (recipe follows) tablespoons rice vinegar tablespoons brown sugar tablespoon sesame oil pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, sliced into strips Peanut Sauce, for serving (page 76) Chili sauce, for serving

1. Combine kecap manis, rice vinegar, brown sugar and sesame oil. Add chicken and marinate for 30 minutes, up to 24 hours.

2. Thread chicken onto metal or bamboo skewers. If using bamboo skewers, make sure to soak in water for at least 30 minutes before threading.

3. Heat a grill to high and grill for 5-6 minutes on one side and 3-4 minutes on the other side.

Serve hot with extra kecap manis, peanut sauce and chili sauce.

Kecap Manis Yield: 2 cups

There is something truly special about this uniquely rich and complex soy sauce that is slightly sweet and aromatic. Years ago, most Indonesian families or community restaurants had their own unique versions. Today, there are two common commercial brands that produce this unique sauce and since they aren’t kosher certified, I knew I had to create a homemade version.

N OT E : For a shortcut, combine 1 cup teriyaki sauce with 1 teaspoon ground ginger and ½ teaspoon Chinese five spice.

Kikkoman sweet soy sauce is another good substitute.

2 2 1 6 3 4

cups soy sauce cups brown sugar (3-inch) knob ginger, sliced cloves garlic, smashed pods star anise whole cloves Zest of 1 lime, peeled in strips

1. Bring all ingredients to a boil in a saucepan. Simmer, uncovered, for 20-30 minutes, until sauce thickens. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

2. Strain sauce. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

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Grilled Chili Corn Serves: 6

½

cup non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature 2 tablespoons sambal oelek (chili paste) or harissa 6 ears corn 1 tablespoon honey 1 bunch chives or scallions, chopped 1. Combine non-dairy butter and chili paste by mashing with a fork.

Brush all over corn.

2. Heat grill to mediumhigh and grill corn for 3-4 minutes per side.

3. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with chives.

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Ayam Bakar Serves: 4

Ayam bakar (roasted chicken) is Indonesia's version of charcoal grilled chicken.

I love this technique — the chicken is poached in an intensely flavorful liquid and then finished on the grill, which results in a deliciously charred chicken without having to stand by the grill for a while. The chicken can also be fully poached and served as is, without being grilled. Just simmer for an additional 20 minutes, until cooked through.

N OT E : I have adapted the traditional recipe, which calls for kecap manis, to use store bought teriyaki sauce. However, feel free to use kecap manis (recipe above) instead of the teriyaki sauce, water, star anise and cloves.

2 3 4 1 1 ¼ ½ 1-2

1

⅓ 1 2 1

tablespoons vegetable oil shallots, minced cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon ground ginger tablespoon coriander teaspoon cumin teaspoon turmeric stalks lemongrass, white parts only (1-inch) knob ginger, peeled and minced Zest and juice of 2 limes cup teriyaki sauce pod star anise whole cloves (3-4 pound) chicken, cut into eighths

1. Heat vegetable oil in a pot over medium heat. Add shallots, garlic, ground ginger, coriander, cumin and turmeric and sauté for 5 minutes, until fragrant.

Add lemongrass, fresh ginger, lime zest and juice, teriyaki sauce, ½ cup water, star anise and cloves.

2. Bring to a boil, then add chicken and simmer, covered, for 35-45 minutes, until chicken is cooked through. Remove from heat. If time allows, leave chicken in the liquid for another hour while it cools, then refrigerate overnight.

3. Heat grill to medium-high and grill chicken for 5-6 minutes per side. In the meantime, bring sauce in the pot to a boil, then simmer until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Brush sauce all over warm chicken.

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Gado Gado Serves: 4

Tempeh, a fermented soybean product that is a wonderful source of protein, was invented in Indonesia thousands of years ago. It’s a key component in the classic Indonesian salad called gado gado, which is a great anytime meal that can be served cold or at room temperature.

1. Marinate sliced tempeh in kecap manis for at least 30 minutes.

2. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Once hot, add coconut oil and sear tempeh for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown. Set aside.

3. Toss greens with ⅓ cup peanut sauce, then arrange on a platter. Top with green beans, sprouts, tomatoes, eggs, tempeh and peanuts. Serve with remaining peanut sauce.

N OT E : Store bought crispy fried onions are a great peanut substitute for those with a nut allergy.

Peanut Sauce

This sauce is so versatile and the peanut butter can be substituted with any alternative nut butter or tahini without compromising on flavor.

1

½ 3 3 1 ½ 1 1 3 ⅓

(8-ounce) package tempeh, sliced cup kecap manis (recipe above) tablespoons coconut oil cups mixed greens cup Peanut Sauce (recipe follows), divided pound blanched green beans cup sprouts tomato, sliced hard boiled eggs, halved cup chopped salted roasted peanuts

Yield: 1¼ cups

Blend 1 garlic clove, 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger, 1 tablespoon Sriracha or 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, ½ cup creamy peanut butter, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons brown sugar and 1 tablespoon lime juice, until creamy.

Season with kosher salt, to taste.

Grilled Branzino Serves: 4-6

One of the best tips for grilling a whole fish is to arrange citrus slices on the grill and place the fish directly on top. This prevents the fish from sticking and results in a whole grilled fish that is intact and delicious. Feel free to use any citrus slices here. ¼ cup cashews 1 shallot 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon sambal oelek (chili paste) 3 cloves garlic 1 (2-inch) knob ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 2 limes, divided 2 teaspoons curry powder 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 whole branzinos, butterflied 76

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1. Blend cashews, shallot, sugar, chili sauce, garlic, ginger, zest and juice of 1 lime, curry powder and salt. Brush all over the fish and let marinate for 30 minutes, up to 24 hours.

2. Heat grill to medium-high. In order to prevent the fish from sticking to the grill, slice the remaining lime, arrange on the grill and place the fish on top. Grill, covered, for 7 minutes on one side and 5 minutes on the other side.

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GRILLING GUIDE GRILLING IS ALL about maintaining control of the heat. When searing a steak, a 600°F grill is exactly what you want, but chicken legs put onto the same grill will be burnt on the outside and undercooked on the inside. Monitoring a grill is like conducting an orchestra — there are many elements that need to come together to create harmonious results.

Here’s how to set up the ideal grilling environment for multiple types of food: Preheat. Like an oven or pan, make sure to preheat the grill. Many grills come with a built-in thermometer, which indicates the temperature. If your grill doesn’t have a thermometer, purchase an inexpensive temperature gauge (see page 18), which will give you an accurate temperature reading.

Create various sources of heat. Set up a very hot side of the grill (direct) and leave the other side with low or no heat (indirect). For a gas grill, simply turn on half the burners. For a charcoal grill, move the hot charcoal to one side of

the grill, leaving the other side without any direct charcoal. The indirect zone will get hot, but not as scorching hot as the direct zone.

Use heat sources strategically.

Direct heat (450-550°F): Steak, hot dogs and sausages.

Indirect heat (350-400°F): Foods that need to cook longer, such as chicken legs or a thick piece of London broil that, once seared, needs to finish off to reach proper temperature.

Constantly monitor and adjust. Using a temperature gauge or keeping an eye on the food and the grill will make all the difference.

COOKBOOK

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COOKBOOK

How to Grill Vegetables: The New Bible for Barbecuing Vegetables over Live Fire Author: Steven Raichlen Published by: Workman Publishing Recently released (May 2021), just in time for grilling season

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Pizzas, Quesadillas & Sandwiches (such as STEVEN RAICHLEN IS a TV host, novelist and New York Times bestselling author who has ember and plancha grilled flatbreads, pitas made a name for himself as a “master of fire,” and pizzas, as well as sandwiches like grilled educating people on the art of grilling and tofu sandwich and vegan seitan cheesesteak smoking across all of his platforms. topped with a mindblowing As the author of multiple renowned rutabaga cheese sauce); Vegetable BY: E L I S H E VA TA I TZ cookbooks, including The Barbecue Small Plates (grilled artichokes Bible®, How to Grill, Project Smoke with harissa mayonnaise; grilled and Project Fire, among others, carrots with carrot top pesto; Steven has proven the breadth of grilled okra); Vegetable Not-Sohis knowledge and skill, which is Small-Plates (such as rotisserie more apparent in his newest work, brussels sprouts; Moroccan spiced How to Grill Vegetables. The book, whole cauliflower; and smoked which was released in May 2021, acorn squash); Vegetable Sides just in time for grilling season, (such as wood-grilled broccolini; tackles transforming vegetables, smashed potatoes); Grilled Eggs from the classics — zucchini, & Cheeses (this chapter includes peppers and onions — to the more mouthwatering cheese recipes if unconventional — lettuce and space allows for a second grill); brussels sprouts on a stalk — by and Desserts (such as grilled fruit way of live fire. The home cook salad). Appendices for Sauces, may traditionally think of live fire Condiments & Seasonings as in two ways, direct and indirect well as A Vegetable Abecedarian, grilling on a gas or charcoal grill, an alphabetical pictorial list of but Steven delves into out-of-thegrill-friendly vegetables and how box methods utilizing techniques to best prepare them in multiple like hay-smoking and cedar plank ways, rounds out the book. and salt-slab grilling to impart This book is perfect for the wild flavor into vegetables that avid griller and the recipes can be can elevate them from side dish to mixed, matched and adapted to main dish. your preferences. The techniques The book is broken down into range the gamut from novice griller 10 chapters beginning with How to expert pitmaster level, with to Grill Vegetables Like a Pro in 9 something for every level of home Easy Steps, where Steven breaks cook. This book is a wonderful down how to set yourself up for encompassing guide and you will success, from a variety of grill, fuel never look at vegetables — or and gadget options to techniques grilling — the same way again! and hacks. The book continues WHILE THIS IS not a marketed with Starters & Pass-Arounds kosher cookbook, a majority (such as grilled avocados and of the recipes are naturally so; smoked tofu); Dips & Chips (such the nonkosher ingredients that as smoked hummus and a grilled appear (i.e. bacon, seafood) can be easily vegetable “caviar,” both of which are perfect omitted or substituted when possible with dips to add to a summer BBQ or Shabbos kosher alternatives. Our goal in featuring this table); Salads, Slaws & A Singular Soup (such cookbook is to encourage our readers to think as grilled corn salad with pomegranate and outside the box when it comes to vegetables mint; grilled napa slaw; and a panzanella and live fire and that grilling and smoking goes salad that would be a great choice for a light summer seudat shlishit meal); Breads, way beyond meat and fish.

THE ART OF THE CHOKE

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Grilled Artichokes with Harissa Mayonnaise Serves: 4 M E T H O D: Direct grilling P R E P T I M E : 10 minutes for trimming the artichokes, plus 10 to 15 minutes for boiling them G R I L L I N G T I M E : 6 to 8 minutes G R I L L /G E A R: Can be grilled over charcoal,

gas, or wood. You’ll also need a wire rack set over a rimmed sheet pan; hardwood chunks or chips (soaked), see page 000.

W H AT E LS E : I call for big fleshy artichokes,

like the globe variety, but when in season, you can also grill baby artichokes. (Cut them in half lengthwise. There is no need to blanch.) For that matter, on page 212 you’ll find instructions for direct grilling your artichokes without blanching. The process takes a bit longer, but the flavor is out of this world.

In traditional meat grilling—think ribs— we’re taught never, ever to boil. Not so with artichokes, for which blanching (cooking briefly in boiling water) prior to grilling can dramatically improve the texture.

Artichokes are intrinsically dense and dry, and blanching softens and moistens their tough plant fibers, making them all the more ready to absorb the smoke flavor that will come from your wood or wood-enhanced fire. Said smoke becomes trapped between the leaves, adding a barbecue flavor you don’t normally associate with this edible overgrown thistle. By way of a dip, I suggest a spicy Harissa Mayonnaise, but the Ember Butter (page 295), Salsa Brava (page 286), or Smoked Allioli (page 290) make great alternatives.

1 lemon 4 artichokes, preferably large globe artichokes Coarse salt (sea or kosher) Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate ½ cup extra virgin olive oil in a small bowl 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced Freshly ground black pepper Harissa Mayonnaise (recipe follows) plus 1 tablespoon harissa, for serving 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives (optional)

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1. Finely grate the lemon zest and set it aside. Cut the lemon in half.

2. Using kitchen scissors, cut the prickly tips off the artichoke leaves. Trim ⅛ inch off the end of the artichoke stems. (The rest of the stem is edible.) Using a chef’s knife, cut each artichoke in half lengthwise. Cut the top half inch off each artichoke half and discard. Using a melon baller or spoon, scrape out and discard the “choke” (the clump of fibers just above the heart). Rub the cut parts of the artichokes with the cut sides of the lemon to keep the artichokes from browning.

3. Bring 1 gallon of water with 4 teaspoons of salt to a boil in a large stockpot.

4. Place the artichokes in the boiling water and cook until just tender, 10 to 15 minutes, or as needed. Use a metal skewer to test for doneness: It should pierce the artichoke with just a little resistance. Do not overcook: The artichokes should remain firm. Drain the artichokes in a colander, running cold water over them until they are cool. Position the artichokes cut side down on a wire rack over a rimmed sheet pan and drain well. The artichokes can be cooked ahead to this stage and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

5. Set up your grill for direct grilling and heat to high. If using a charcoal grill, place hardwood chunks or chips on the coals. If using a gas grill, place a few wood chunks in the smoker box or directly over the burners under the grate. If using a woodburning grill, do nothing more than light it: Don’t let the flames die down completely— flames mean smoke and smoke means flavor. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well.

hot and browned on both sides and easy to pierce with a fork, another 2 to 4 minutes, 6 to 8 minutes in all. Transfer the artichokes to a platter or plates, cut sides up. Spoon some of the Harissa Mayonnaise into the hollow part of the artichokes. Spoon a dab of straight harissa in the center and sprinkle with the chives (if using). Serve the remaining Harissa Mayonnaise on the side.

Harissa Mayonnaise Yield: Makes a little more than 1 cup

Harissa is North African hot sauce made with garlic, spices, and roasted hot peppers to give it a richer flavor. Once found solely at specialty markets in the United States, this newly fashionable gullet scorcher is available today at many supermarkets and online. For an interesting variation, use a Southeast Asian chili paste in place of harissa. For an even more interesting dipping sauce, replace the lemon zest and lemon juice with 2 tablespoons minced preserved lemon. The latter is a pickled lemon originally from Morocco. Find them at gourmet stores or online. Two good brands are Mina and Casablanca Market.

1

3 ½

cup mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods tablespoons harissa, or to taste teaspoon freshly and finely grated lemon zest, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (or 2 tablespoons minced preserved lemon)

Combine the mayonnaise, harissa, lemon zest and juice in a mixing bowl and whisk to mix. Refrigerate in a covered container until using. It will keep for at least 3 days.

6. Stir the lemon zest and garlic into the olive oil. Brush the cut sides of the artichokes with the lemon-garlic oil and dab more oil between and over the leaves.

Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the artichoke halves, cut sides down, on the grill running diagonal to the bars of the grate. Grill for about 2 minutes or so, then give each artichoke a quarter turn to lay on a crosshatch of grill marks. Grill until the cut side is darkly browned, about 2 minutes more. Baste the tops of the artichokes with the oil, dabbing it under the leaves.

7. When the cut sides are nicely browned, turn the artichokes over and grill the leaf side, again basting with the lemon-garlic oil. The artichokes are ready when sizzling

Excerpted from How to Grill Vegetables by Steven Raichlen, photographs by Steven Randazzo. Workman Publishing © 2021.

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L'CHAIM

VITKIN, CABERNET FRANC,

G U S H E T Z I O N , B L E S S E D V A L L E Y,

2016

C H A R D O N N AY, 2 0 1 9

One of the many reasons I often recommend Vitkin’s wonderful wines is that they are specifically made to be enjoyed with food rather than on their own. This Cabernet Franc is mediumbodied, with herbaceous and spicy notes, as well as hints of crunchy red berries. Try it with a chicken cacciatore — you won’t regret it!

Chardonnay wines that are aged in oak barrels are often as full-bodied as big Bordeaux or Napa reds. This wine is rich and has great viscosity, with lemon and juicy golden apple notes, but the bracing acidity keeps the wine fresh and lively. It’s a great pairing for schnitzel.

BA RO N H E R ZO G, ROSÉ, 2020 If you walk into a wine store these days, you will quickly notice the plethora of kosher rosé options. While some retail for over $50, this Baron Herzog, which costs less than $15, is delicious and well-balanced with a touch of sweetness that would make it the perfect match for spicy chicken wings.

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L'CHAIM

E LV I , H E R E N Z A ,

C H ÂT E A U R O L L A N

WHITE, 2018

D E B Y, M É D O C ,

This wine is made from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and an indigenous Spanish variety called Pansa Blanca. Amazingly refreshing while also sporting some complexity, this wine has lime and peach notes, with enough body and plenty of acidity to stand up to herb and lemonmarinated grilled pargiyot.

2015 For those who, like me, enjoy a more restrained, elegant and earthy oldworld wine such as a nice Bordeaux, the Rollan de By is an excellent choice and would complement a chicken roulade or any type of meat. It is also mevushal, which can come in handy for parties and simchas.

L'CHAIM BY: GABRIEL GELLER

Grilled or smoked chicken are always house favorites in the summer.

My personal preference is boneless thighs, commonly known in our community by their Hebrew name — pargiyot.

One of the great things about chicken is that it can be paired with a large diversity of wines — dry or sweet; white, pink or red.

Here are some of my go-to options to pair with some popular chicken dishes.

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PROFILE

THE CHEF’S GARDEN X

MASBIA SOUP KITCHEN BY: C HANA Z E L DA W E ISS

On a sprawling piece of land near the shores of Lake Erie in rural Huron, Ohio, you’ll find The Chef’s Garden, an innovative farm dedicated to growing high-quality crops through natural and environmentally-friendly practices.

True to its name, the farm is focused on providing specialty and heirloom vegetables, herbs, microgreens and edible flowers to the most esteemed chefs and restaurants around the world.

Their Earth-to-Table™ philosophy focuses on the health and nutrition of the soil first as the foundation to growing high-quality, ultra nutrient-dense crops, using techniques that are somehow both as old as time and incredibly innovative at the same time.

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PROFILE

FARMER LEE JONES,

co-founder and face of The Chef’s Table, grew up with farming in his blood. His parents learned the value of growing vegetables for flavor and quality instead of yield, even if they could not have foreseen a time when food trends would pivot towards vegetablecentric menus and sustainable farming practices. Everything about Farmer Lee represents the archetypical all-American farmer, from his jovial smile to his signature look. “Farmer Lee is an American icon, not just because of his shirt, bow tie and overalls, which are as American as rhubarb pie. It’s because he truly believes in the soil of America, the chefs of America, the culinary culture of America,” writes Chef José Andrés in the foreword of The Chef’s Garden’s new eponymous vegetable-focused cookbook.

BEYOND JUST THE differences in clothing, it is the stark contrast of culture that makes the alliance between Farmer Lee Jones and Masbia Kitchen’s Alexander Rapaport so unexpected. A Hassidic Jew from Brooklyn with long sidelocks and a traditional black velvet hat might be the last person you’d expect to find perched atop a tractor at the farm. After years of serving the needy communities in Brooklyn with a soup kitchen that functions “like a restaurant without a cash register,” as well as a food pantry that serves thousands per day, Masbia caught the attention of national news outlets as well as the team behind The Chef’s Garden.

“We believe in serving every person who walks through our door with dignity and respect, no matter who they are, with no questions asked,” says Masbia founder Alexander Rapaport. “It’s not a cafeteria,” adds Masbia CCOO (Chef Chief Operating Officer) Jordana Hirschel. “Every dinner, consisting of highquality, freshly cooked food, including bread, soup, a main, two sides and dessert, is served on real plates and brought out to the table, where diners sit on real chairs.”

As The Chef’s Garden planned their Roots conference back in 2014, inviting chefs from all over to discuss the future of food and cutting-edge new trends in farming, they knew that charity in the food world was an integral element to include. Mr. Rapaport was invited to join the conference and participate in 90

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a panel to discuss the importance of maintaining a focus on quality of food and respect to diners in a charity setting.

This began a years-long partnership that continues to this day. While The Chef ’s Garden mostly sends its meticulously-wrapped prime produce to chefs of high-end restaurants, they continue to ship cases of produce of the same quality to Masbia Kitchen as well, taking into account the needs of a kosher soup kitchen and selecting the items that will be most useful. “I don’t believe that just because someone can’t afford to pay for their meal, it should mean that they have to eat rich people’s trash,” says Mr. Rapaport. With an expansive refrigeration unit, the food pantry in each Masbia location offers much of the produce for people to take and cook at home as well.

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PROFILE

kitchen went on hiatus while demand at the food pantries soared by over 500%, prompting Masbia to remain open 24 hours a day to fulfill the demand. The organization, which is primarily funded through donations (and supported by many volunteer workers), turned to the community to raise the funds so desperately needed to keep the operation running.

The Chef ’s Garden’s newly released cookbook provided the perfect opportunity for collaborative fundraising that could reach a nationwide audience. The book serves as a bible for the world of fresh produce, opening readers’ eyes to new techniques and the potential to transform vegetables into dishes such as Ramp Top Pasta, Seared Rack of Brussels Sprouts and CornbreadStuffed Zucchini Blossoms and even sweet concoctions like Onion Caramel and Beet Marshmallows. “I wanted

The Chef's Garden: A Modern Guide to Common and Unusual Vegetables by Farmer Lee Jones is available for purchase on Amazon for $46.40.

The kosher companion to the cookbook, produced

by Masbia, offers chef-approved recipes with kosher alternatives.

Donors can receive the kosher companion with every $108 donation and The Chef's Garden cookbook along with the kosher companion with every $540 donation.

Visit masbia.org for additional donation opportunities.

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Chef Jordana Hirschel of Masbia Kitchen collaborating with Chef Jamie Simpson of The Chef's Garden

to offer the cookbook as a gift to our generous donors, and although it primarily celebrates vegetables, I knew that some would be uncomfortable with the non-kosher recipes found inside,” says Mr. Rapaport.

Thus began the first-of-its-kind collaboration between Chef Jordana Hirschel of Masbia, who spearheaded the project, and Chef Jamie Simpson of The Chef’s Garden, who had developed many of the recipes for the cookbook, to create a companion for the book aimed at helping the religious consumer adapt the recipes for the kosher kitchen, bridging cultures and working together to raise funds for the organization.

Chef Jordana worked on the recipe development with assistance from other notable chefs in the kosher industry, including Chef Bryan Gryka and Chef Joshua Massin, while remaining in close contact with Chef Jamie to ensure that the adapted recipes remained true to the essence of the original versions.

“Some were simple swaps, but there were others that were a lot more difficult,” explains Chef Jordana. “The very first recipe in the cookbook is a cornish game hen glazed with an onion caramel sauce made with butter and

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heavy cream. Sure, some would just use margarine and non-dairy creamer, but the whole focus of the book is on using real and natural ingredients.”

After Chef Jamie explained that the exquisite onion caramel sauce was the true focus of the recipe, the chefs brainstormed together and came up with an adaptation of the recipe that keeps the glaze as is, but uses it to glaze a roasted butternut squash instead of a cornish game hen.

Mr. Rapaport and Chef Jordana traveled to the farm, along with a few other members of the Masbia team, staying in the beautiful log cabinesque Chef’s Suite above the Culinary Vegetable Institute, a key feature of The Chef ’s Garden enterprise. With a kitchen equipped with the most premium culinary tools, chefs from prestigious restaurants regularly come to visit the CVI to experiment with all the unique produce the farm has to offer, bringing new ideas and recipes back home. Chef Jordana spent time touring the farm, speaking to Chef Jamie and Farmer Bob Jones (Farmer Lee’s brother) about the science of farming and experimenting with kosher versions of some of the recipes

from the cookbook — an immersive and informative experience that will be available to Masbia supporters at the highest donation level.

“We know we are on the right side of history producing a book highlighting vegetables and putting them on the pedestal they deserve. Even though some of the recipes call for meat, it is the vegetables that are the North Star guiding us conceptually in this project,” says Chef Jamie. “Our goal with this collaboration is to help Masbia raise money and awareness for the unbelievable work they do for people in need. We are eternally grateful for the opportunity,” he adds.

With hours of blood, sweat and tears poured into farming the prime crops at The Chef’s Garden and hours of blood, sweat and tears poured into feeding the needy at Masbia Kitchen, this remarkable collaboration serves as the ultimate testament to what can be accomplished when we set aside our differences and work together toward a common goal.

Chana Zelda Weiss is a mom of three, full-time support manager and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain.

You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook. www.fleishigs.com

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ADAMAH TREASURES

XO Sauce Yield: Approximately 1 quart

Original recipe: Page 612 of The Chef's Garden by Farmer Lee Jones and Chef Jamie Simpson Recipe adapted by: Chef Jordana Hirschel KOS H E R I SSU E S : Dried shrimp, ham, mussels, monkfish, scallops

16 ½ 2 1 1 ¼ ¼ 1 3 3

1

1

ounces surimi cup unflavored oil, divided tablespoons minced garlic, divided ounce anchovies, diced ounce smoked anchovies, diced cup soy sauce cup tamari sauce shallot, finely diced cups shiitake mushrooms, finely diced dried chilis, seeds removed and diced teaspoon umami mushroom seasoning tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Prepare a cooling rack set atop a baking sheet and arrange surimi on the rack. Cook for 1 hour. Let cool. Shred surimi and return to the oven for another 2 hours to dry out, tossing halfway through for even cooking. Once cooled and dried, dice surimi and set aside.

Masbia Kitchen’s kosher supplement to The Chef’s Garden is officially available on masbia.org.

This XO sauce is an example of the unique offerings in this project spearheaded by Masbia's Chief Culinary Officer, Chef Jordana Hirschel.

XO sauce is a deeply complex umami bomb that Jordana brilliantly made kosher by using a combination of savory, flavor-packed ingredients.

2. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon minced garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add anchovies and sauté, using a rubber spatula to incorporate it into the oil. Set aside.

3. Heat remaining oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add soy sauce, tamari sauce, remaining tablespoon minced garlic and shallots and sauté for 2-3 minutes.

4. Add mushrooms, chilis, mushroom seasoning and ginger. Simmer for 10-12 minutes, until slightly thickened. Add garlic-anchovy oil.

5. Toss surimi with mushroom sauce and let marinate for 1 hour. Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week.

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INDONESIA By: Noa Levy

E

VER SINCE I was a child I always dreamt of seeing dragons. Not the dragons in fairy tales, but rather Komodo dragons, the largest lizard species in the world endemic to only a couple of islands in Indonesia. So some years ago, my mother and I chose Indonesia for our annual trip together; we always pick an exotic location — the more far-flung, the better.

TRAVEL

GETTING THERE INDONESIA IS THE largest archipelago nation in the world, with more than 17,000 islands stretching over a few million kilometers of territory between Southern Asia and Australia. We flew from London via Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, allowing us an opportunity to visit the famous Petronas Twin Towers during our stopover.

After spending a few days in Bali, we flew to Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores in East Indonesia, which has the closest airport to the Komodo Islands. The Komodo National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and encompasses a rich marine environment, including over 4,000 dragons, and is host to world class diving sites. The landscape is otherworldly, with jungle-covered islands created from ancient volcanic eruptions jutting out of the sapphire waters.

View from the bar at Ayana Komodo Resort on Flores Island's Waecicu Beach

WHERE WE STAYED WE STAYED AT Ayana Komodo, a 5-star hotel situated on the beach with glorious views of the islands (most glorious when enjoyed at sunset from the rooftop bar). It has a house reef where you can snorkel over the rainbow-colored coral amongst shoals of tropical fish. Take a short boat ride to the hotel’s private island to enjoy a Robinson Crusoe castaway experience (if Robinson Crusoe had access to sun loungers and a beach attendant hiding around the corner ready to provide fresh coconuts and other refreshments!).

FOOD THERE’S NO KOSHER FOOD available in the Komodo Islands, so we brought everything we needed. When traveling, I usually pack a few frozen meals that the hotel can heat up, as well as a sandwich toaster and of course, lots of crackers and chocolate. As a kosher traveler, Asia is always a pleasure because of the variety of exotic fruit available. I always travel with a knife/peeler combo so that I can cut up fresh fruit and vegetables myself.

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DAY 1 WE HAD A day trip pre-booked through our hotel on their private speedboat, but we decided to take another boat trip to visit more of the islands. Our taxi driver was very friendly and offered to act as an interpreter for us at the port as we negotiated with the local fishermen to hire a boat for the day. For $100 (they definitely saw us coming!), we chartered a local fishing boat along with a captain and his friend who came along for the ride.

As our boat chugged out from the harbor, we relaxed in the sun and enjoyed the views of the sea, islands and occasional flying fish leaping out of the water. About half an hour in, it started raining and it became clear that a storm was brewing. The small fishing boat lurched from side to side on the increasingly large waves and rain lashed in sideways, soaking us to the skin. I think it was when waves started breaking over the sides of the boat that we began to question the wisdom of our off-the-cuff charter, especially as we had no phone reception and realized that nobody knew where we were!

Luckily our fisherman captain appeared to be used to inclement weather and the shore was in sight a nail-biting 30 minutes later.

OUR FIRST STOP was at Mesa Island, which is an island inhabited by the Bujao Sea Gypsies. Initially a nomadic people who lived on boats, they have now settled on this island but still call the sea their home. You won’t find white 100

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sand beaches and swaying palm trees on this tropical island, but what you will find are some of the most welcoming people we have ever met, with a fascinating and largely undocumented history. It was striking how at home they were with the sea — tiny children, no more than three or four years old, launched themselves fearlessly into the water to play, swimming underwater for unfeasibly long amounts of time. I suppose that this should have come as no surprise, since adult Bujao fishermen are world-renowned for their freediving skills and can hold their breath underwater for up to 13 minutes. Mesa Island is very unusual in that it has no source of fresh water, so the men go out every day on boats to fetch it from the mainland. As we arrived in the middle of a downpour, several of the children were taking advantage of the rainwater to wash their hair, walking around with heads covered with soapy suds waiting for the rain to wash it off.

The island is not on the tourist map, so the children were very excited to see us and show us around. Small, eager hands clasped at ours as they pulled us in different directions to show us their houses, friends, favorite viewpoints and pet goats. Progress around the small island was slow and everyone wanted us to take their picture, selfies being a particular favorite as they jostled to be able to see their faces in the frame.

After a comprehensive tour of the island and having said goodbye to the

children at the dock, we climbed back onto the fishing boat to journey to our next stop. By this time, the tropical sun had dried us off, the sea was calm once again and there was a rainbow over the island. We had timed it so that we would arrive at the uninhabited Kalong Island at dusk in order to view one of the most incredible natural spectacles that we have ever seen. As we sat on the boat in the middle of the sea, the sun was setting on one side, the moon was rising on the other and the sky began to turn black, not because it was getting dark, but because thousands of fruit bats (also known as flying foxes) were flying out from their mangrove roosts in order to search for food. Interestingly, nobody knows where the bats go to get their food, only that they are back in their roosts by morning. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset on the boat while listening to the rhythmic sounds of flapping wings. www.fleishigs.com

TRAVEL

Traditional home on Mesa Island

View of Mesa Island

Kalong Island

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DAY 2 it was time for our second excursion, so we set off from the hotel jetty early in the morning by private speedboat. The air conditioned interior of this small, top-of-the-range speedboat was in marked contrast to the previous day’s rickety fishing boat.

Our first destination was, of course, to see the Komodo dragons. Pulling up at Rinca Island, we were greeted by park rangers who asked if any of us were bleeding. These blood-thirsty creatures reach up to 10 feet in length and 300 pounds and can smell blood from five miles away. Their saliva is laden with toxins that cause bleeding and prevent blood clotting, so even if their prey escapes, they can follow it for miles as they wait for it to die from the poisons.

The dragons roam freely around the islands and rangers don’t want to risk any bleeding tourists catching their attention! As these ferocious predators have been known to attack and kill humans in the past, we imagined our rangers would be appropriately armed to protect us in case of emergencies. We were slightly surprised (read: horrified) that they all only carried a pointy stick!

In case of an attack, they were poised and ready to hit the dragons on the nose.

We trekked single file, with a ranger in the front and back of the group. Our instructions were to stay on the marked paths at all times and not to stray within biting distance of any of the Komodo dragons. You are guaranteed to spot one of the lizards, although we didn’t see any of the babies. Due to the fact that ten percent of an adult Komodo dragon’s diet is baby dragons, the babies climb trees from an early age and are very good at hiding!

THE NEXT DAY

NEXT UP, WE 102

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where we were greeted by the sight of several deer on the beach. There was no time to join them for a swim; we were there to hike to the summit to see one of the most iconic viewpoints in Indonesia.

The climb (and at times scramble) up the hundreds of steps to the top of the hill was incredibly challenging due to the high temperatures and humidity, but absolutely worth it. It must count as one of the most spectacular views I have ever seen — three turquoise crescent bays with black, white and pink colored sand. After an exhausting ascent, we headed back down to the boat and moved on to the pink beach we had seen from the top. We spent a couple of hours swimming and relaxing.

If you are a beach lover, as I am, it doesn’t get much better than the Komodo Islands. Where else do beaches come with a choice of sand color? The pink beach is one of only seven in the world — the color is believed to be due to tiny pieces of red coral combined

with the white sand and the end result is incredible and slightly unreal. The next stop was a sand bar with blindingly white sand surrounded by glass clear water called Taka Makassar — a small spit of sand in the middle of the ocean.

The boat dropped its anchor and we walked through waist-deep water while tropical fish darted around us to reach the sand bar where we basked in paradise.

We found ourselves crossing off several goals on this trip. One of the most memorable was swimming with manta rays at Manta Point. The largest species of ray with a wingspan of up to five meters, they are harmless to humans and feed mainly on plankton.

The most arresting thing about them is their incredibly graceful swimming style, which makes them look as if they are flying. I didn’t manage to emulate the aforementioned graceful swimming style. Rather, I swam as fast as I could to try to keep up with them! The currents www.fleishigs.com

COOKBOOK

The infamous Komodo dragon, indigenous to Indonesian islands

at Manta Point were like nothing I had experienced before. I was still enjoying swimming with the rays when the crew noticed strong currents forming and instructed us all to get back on the boat.

We had to cling to a rope on the side of the boat while we waited our turn to board, in order not to be swept away.

Two bucket list items ticked off — seeing Komodo dragons and manta rays — as well as spectacular views and pink beaches made this the day trip to beat all day trips.

I H I G H LY R EC O M M E N D a trip to Indonesia for its almost unmatched diversity as a destination. Whatever you are looking for in a vacation, it is hard to beat Indonesia’s all-encompassing attractions and there is something for everyone. With paradise-like beaches, captivating landscapes and encounters with exotic animals and marine life, there are multiple reasons why Indonesia should make your travel bucket list.

Noa Levy is a mortgage broker with a passion for world travel, having visited over 30 countries.

Noa lives in London with her husband, three sons and rabbit. Follow Noa’s adventures on Instagram @sunseasand_andasheitel.

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SOMETHING SWEET

BY: ROSA SEIDENWAR

Snickerdoodle Cookie Ice Cream Sandwiches Yield: 20 cookies, 10 ice cream sandwiches

Chewy snickerdoodles are the best chewy cookies and work perfectly for ice cream sandwiches. For a fun and interactive dessert, create a DIY ice cream sandwich board where everyone can choose their own flavors and toppings; it’s always a big hit for a crowd. ¾ cup oil 1½ + ⅓ cups sugar, divided 2 eggs 2¼ cups flour 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons cinnamon 3-4 cups non-dairy caramel ice cream, slightly softened Toppings of choice, such as sprinkles, mini chocolate chips and chopped candied nuts

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I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream sandwiches!

Long, hot summer days call for ice cream and I can’t think of a better way to enjoy this classic summer favorite than in sandwich form. Try these elevated ice cream sandwiches for a surprisingly sweet summer treat.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Whisk oil, 1½ cups sugar and eggs until light and fluffy. Sift in flour, cornstarch, baking soda and salt and mix just until a dough forms.

3. In a separate bowl, mix remaining ⅓ cup sugar with cinnamon for the topping.

Using a large cookie scoop, form 20 balls of cookie dough, then roll in the cinnamonsugar mixture.

4. Place cookie dough balls onto prepared baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches between cookies. Bake for 8-10 minutes, until the edges are golden. Transfer cookies to a cooling rack.

5. Once cookies are completely cool, top half of the cookies with a scoop of ice cream, then top with the remaining cookies.

Press down gently so that the ice cream is visible from all sides. Roll the sides into toppings of choice. Freeze until ready to serve.

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SOMETHING SWEET

Cherry Brownie Ice Cream Sandwiches Yield: 12 ice cream sandwiches

An upgrade on the classic chocolate-vanilla ice cream sandwiches we had as kids, these are not only strikingly beautiful to look at, but also combine some of the best flavors — fudgy chocolate brownies, sweet vanilla ice cream and tart cherries make these sandwiches the perfect summer treat for any age.

3 eggs 1½ cups sugar ⅔ cup canola oil ½ cup cocoa powder ¾ cup all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt 4 cups non-dairy vanilla ice cream, softened 1 cup frozen cherries Chocolate sauce, for serving 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 (9-inch) square pans with parchment paper and grease with nonstick cooking spray. Sift some cocoa powder over the spray to ensure the brownies come out easily.

2. Whisk eggs, sugar and oil until light and fluffy.

Add cocoa powder, flour and salt and mix until combined.

3. Divide brownie batter evenly into the prepared pans. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted comes out clean. The brownies should still be fudgy. Let cool in the pans for 5 minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack.

4. Once brownies are cool, line the same pan with parchment paper and return one of the brownies to the pan, top side down.

5. Spread vanilla ice cream over the brownie and top with frozen cherries. Top with the second brownie square, top side up. Gently push down.

6. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for at least 4 hours, until frozen solid.

7. Slice into 12 ice cream sandwiches. Serve with chocolate sauce.

B O OZ E I T U P: Add 2 tablespoons Misceo coffee liqueur to the brownie batter.

Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes for busy parents who enjoy baking but may not have the time. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a food photographer and food stylist for various brands, with a focus on video content. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_lilyrose or on her website lilyrosebakersblog.com.

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PRETTY PLEASE WITH A CHERRY INSIDE.

N OT E : The ice cream should be melted just enough to be spreadable.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

Goose Bay – New Zealand’s Kosher Treasure

Goose Bay is one of only a couple wineries located down under in beautiful, picturesque New Zealand that produce kosher wines. There are so many unique things about this winery and we are blessed, as kosher wine lovers, to be able to enjoy wines from Goose Bay.

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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

SINCE COVID, it has been tough to catch up with winemakers in person, but technology has afforded us the chance to keep in touch with Matthew Rutherford, the big boss at Goose Bay. Matthew has been involved in Goose Bay (and Spencer Hill Winery, where the kosher Goose Bay wines are produced) since its inception in 1990. He started off planting the original vineyards and eventually became the vineyard manager, viticulturist, assistant winemaker and subsequently the head winemaker, managing director and, as of 2020, the owner. Matt’s resume tells you a lot about his experience with the terroir and his expertise in making excellent kosher wines.

He purchased the winery after working for proprietors Phil and Sheryl Jones for 30 years.

Matthew is no stranger to kosher winemaking laws, with over 16 harvests of kosher wine production under his belt in New Zealand and 10 in Washington State at the sister winery Pacifica.

Spencer Hill is the main winery and the Goose Bay brand is exclusively for kosher wine production.

The Joneses and Matthew saw an opportunity in a niche market to produce a wine from New Zealand with the help of Royal Wine Corp and the OU. Due to the small Jewish community, it was not a simple task to produce a kosher wine in New Zealand because few, if any, of the community members had the credentials to give hashgacha on the wines. Matthew explained to me that, at this point, they have the entire process down pat.

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Spencer Hill, where the Goose Bay wines are made, is an estate winery with over 30 acres of vines. The climate in the Nelson region is very conducive to producing bright, acidic white wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Sauvignon Blanc wines from Nelson sport a richer texture and are fuller-bodied than the wines from famed Marlborough. Each harvest produces between 200-300 tons of fruit to sell to other wineries, on top of the fruit used for their own production.

This is not done frequently in Europe, however, it is a very common practice in California.

Vineyards often produce fruit to sell to other wineries, which is then transported from the vineyard to the wineries to be crushed, fermented and bottled under different brands. Kosher keeping folks often wonder if non-kosher counterpart wines can be comparable to kosher wines. The answer is yes, since we see that many wineries do purchase fruit and make their own wines. Of course, the skill and conditions of the particular winery play a role in how the final product turns out, but for the most part, we are enjoying an abundance of choice in excellent kosher wines.

Unfortunately, the pandemic halted Goose Bay’s production of kosher wine because the mashgichim could not get into New Zealand from Australia to do the supervision, which had a substantial financial impact on the winery, which had just changed ownership. However, we are excited to report an excellent vintage for 2021, including the awardwinning Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Matthew explained that they had a slight overproduction in 2019 kosher wines, anticipating a steady supply of wines on the kosher and non-kosher shelves through 2021. Although there might be a slight delay while the 2021 harvested wines are shipping from New Zealand, this is not a bad thing. It will just leave kosher consumers a little bit more thirsty for the zesty Sauvignon Blanc we know and love! Many people buy wine from Israel to support our brothers and sisters, however, it is extremely important to remember that there are many people who have their hands in the production of kosher wines around the world, including Jewish and non-Jewish people who have supported our community for many decades and it is important to support them as well.

Moreover, it is even more important to drink delicious, well-produced kosher wines! L'chaim!

Yael Geller is a longtime wine enthusiast known for her bluntly honest opinions and advice about kosher wine. She can be reached for comments and recommendations at gelleryael@gmail.com

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RECIPE INDEX CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 28 35 64 66 70 76 84 93

Alabama White Sauce FF Q Classic Coleslaw FF M Q Grilled Challah FF Lemon Basil Aioli M Q Kecap Manis Peanut Sauce M Q Harissa Mayonnaise M Q XO Sauce

FISH & VEGETARIAN 50 Beet Salad M 51 Mohibir’Yon FF M Q 51 Fried Eggplant FF 73 Grilled Chili Corn M Q 76 Gado Gado M Q 76 Grilled Branzino 84 Grilled Artichokes 114 Coal-Roasted Kabocha Squash M

MEAT 49 Oshpiozi FF 53 Bachsh FF M 54 Oshsvo FF 66 Grilled Sausage and Pepper Pizza FF

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CHICKEN 27 28 35 36 37 38 41 70 75

Wine Can Chicken FF M Alabama-Style Spatchcocked Chicken FF Spicy Pulled Chicken Sandwiches Q Curried Chicken Salad Q Crunchy Cabbage Salad with Crispy Shallots and Peanuts Chicken Lettuce Wraps with Puffed Rice Noodles Spiced Chicken Bourekas FF Chicken Satay M Ayam Bakar

SWEET TREATS 56 Pavlova 104 Snickerdoodle Cookie Ice Cream Sandwiches FF 106 Cherry Brownie Ice Cream Sandwiches FF

KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

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LAST BITE

Coal-Roasted Kabocha Squash Serves: 4-6

While reading The Chef’s Garden cookbook and the accompanying kosher supplement produced by Masbia (read more on page 89), we were blown away by every single recipe we read and made. One of the coolest techniques we picked up on was roasting a whole squash over a wood fire, elevating the classic potato-in-a-campfire concept. We were so excited to try it and, once we saw the results for ourselves, knew we had to share it.

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1

kabocha squash Extra-virgin olive oil Flaky sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Sprinkle of nutritional yeast (optional)

1. Light a charcoal grill. Let the coals burn down until light gray in color. Wearing fireproof gloves, use a shovel to dig a small well in the center of the pit.

2. Wrap squash in foil and place in the well. Gently pull the coals up and around the squash. Let cook for 1 hour, then carefully flip using a fireplace fork and cook for an additional 30-60 minutes, depending on the size of the squash.

3. To serve, cut in half, then drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and nutritional yeast, if desired.

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