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BUTCHER'S CUT
Breaking down the humble chicken
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SHABBAT FEAST
A Bucharian feast with Chagit Leviev
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EDITOR’S LETTER BTS @fleishigsmag
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STAPLES Unique ingredients and gadgets to make the recipes in this issue
30 CULINARY SCHOOL How to spatchcock a whole chicken 34 BACK POCKET Five ways to use rotisserie chicken 58 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Bucharian cuisine 62 BREAKING BREAD Grilled challah
68 SUMMER GRILLING
Indonesian cuisine
80 COOKBOOK How to Grill Vegetables: The New Bible for Barbecuing Vegetables over Live Fire by Steven Raichlen 86 L’CHAIM Wines that pair perfectly with chicken 88 PROFILE The Chef’s Garden 96 TRAVEL Indonesia 108 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Goose Bay Winery 112 RECIPE INDEX 114 LAST BITE Coal-roasted kabocha squash
104 SOMETHING SWEET
Ice cream sandwiches
BUTCHER'S CUT
MY FAVORITE PART of the chicken is the wing flat — the two-boned section of the wing. If I can’t have just wings, my next preference would be a whole chicken and here’s why. Firstly, generally speaking, the dark meat folks and the white meat folks can have their favorites and dinnertime peace can be achieved. Secondly, extra bits of skin and fat can be trimmed and tucked away to render for gribenes or schmaltz. Finally, keeping the skin intact over the whole bird means maximum opportunity for crispiness and flavor. Plus, for all of these benefits, a whole bird is also going to cost a little less per pound than cut up parts. Not bad.
SIZE Let’s talk size for a minute. On a 3-pound bird, the thigh, drumstick or breast can be served as individual portions. On a smaller bird, someone with a hearty appetite might eat the thigh and the leg. Very small birds, called cornish hens, can be served one per person (they generally weigh 1-1½ pounds each). They’re tender and festive, but a little harder to eat because of all the bones. Larger birds can be carved like turkey or the breasts can be cut into two portions before serving. Generally, a larger bird will be more flavorful, but a smaller one will yield more tender meat. You may also come across a large bird called a capon. Technically, capons are castrated roosters specially fed for tenderness, but most birds labeled “capon” are in fact just large regular chickens.
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POULTRY TYPES You might also wonder about different kinds of poultry. “Pastured” chicken is raised outdoors on pasture with room to forage and move around. It has a deeper flavor and the dark meat has more texture because the birds get more exercise. “Organic” indicates that the birds’ feed, which includes grain and legumes, is certified organic, but doesn’t indicate how the birds are raised. If poultry is labeled “natural,” that doesn’t mean very much, as all poultry could be called natural. Hormones are not allowed in poultry production in the United States, but antibiotics are regularly used in conventional poultry production because their living conditions can make them prone to infection. Chicken that is not labeled “pastured” or “raised on pasture” is likely raised indoors in sheds. COOKING TIPS When roasting a whole bird, I prefer to carefully separate the skin from the flesh near the base of the neck and squeeze in a paste of garlic, herbs and spices to baste the meat as it cooks. In the summer, a quick snip with poultry shears to open up the bird (called “spatchcock” or “butterfly”) allows me to lay the whole thing on the grill for even cooking. It can also be cooked low and slow in the oven — 300°F at convection roast — until the skin is crisp and dark meat is tender, about 45-60 minutes. Add some potatoes and onions to the pan to catch the juices as it cooks, pour yourself a drink and relax. Dinner is on the way.
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BACK POCKET
A rotisserie chicken is one of the most underrated supermarket buys. There are unlimited ways to use it and we love it for its ease and versatility, especially when you want to avoid being in a hot kitchen all day. All of the following recipes can be eaten cold or at room temperature, which makes them great choices for a light Shabbos lunch or even shalosh seudot. They also serve as excellent weeknight dinner options and travel really well, so feel free to pack up a picnic to bring to the park on a long summer day!
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BACK POCKET
Cluckin delicious Spicy Pulled Chicken Sandwiches Serves: 4-6
¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2
4-6
cup soy sauce cup sambal oelek (chili garlic sauce) cup ketchup cup maple syrup cup fish-free Worcestershire sauce cups shredded rotisserie chicken, skin discarded Fresh Coleslaw (recipe follows) toasted buns
1. Add soy sauce, sambal oelek, ketchup, maple syrup and Worcestershire sauce to a saucepan over medium-low heat and stir until bubbling. Add shredded chicken, toss to coat and cook for 5-7 minutes, until chicken is heated through. 2. Top the bottoms of the buns with a spoonful of coleslaw, then a heaping spoonful of chicken. Close buns and serve immediately.
Classic Coleslaw Toss 2 cups shredded white cabbage with 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Let sit for 2 minutes, then squeeze out excess water. Add ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon lemon juice or rice vinegar and 1 teaspoon maple syrup. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
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BREAKING BREAD
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BREAKING BREAD
Summer Shabbat is the most fun. With a nice late start, it’s almost like you get a whole extra day of the week! Less fun, though, is the super hot kitchen from using the oven all day to cook. As a relief, many turn to their grill to cook their entire Shabbat meal – that way, they can enjoy the beautiful weather while keeping the heat outside. But what about the challah? Turns out you can cook challah directly on the grill! The end result is beyond delicious, with a crispy exterior and a warm chewy interior. Sprinkle a little salt on the crust as it grills for a flavorful salted crust.
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SUMMER GRILLING
Grilled Branzino (recipe page 76)
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SUMMER GRILLING
I HAVE BEEN the designated griller for my family's legendary Sunday barbecues in upstate New York for years. I have learned a lot along the way and know my way around the grill, but I am always looking for new, fun flavors and grilling techniques. After reading about Noa Levy’s travel adventures to Indonesia (see page 96) and realizing that the kosher options in this Southeast Asian country are nearly nonexistent, my interest in Indonesian cuisine was piqued. I began searching and landed on a 28-minute YouTube video by Mark Wiens, a famous travel and food vlogger, from his travels to Indonesia. It was a fascinating way to vicariously experience Indonesian food. I was excited to see that much of the food culture is surrounded by grilling, so I began cooking up Indonesian classics and fell in love with the flavors and textures of this dynamic cuisine. Most of the basic building block ingredients of Indonesian cuisine are kosher, but because many sauces are made with shrimp paste, commercial sauces aren’t kosher. The following recipes are inspired by Indonesian cuisine and serve as a great introduction to the flavors and cooking style of this region. To be completely honest, these recipes aren’t totally authentic, since they have been adapted to fit with kosher ingredients that can readily be found at a local supermarket. To learn more about Indonesian cuisine, I strongly recommend the aforementioned video from Mark Wiens’ YouTube channel or search your local library’s database for Indonesian cookbooks — Coconut & Sambal: Recipes From My Indonesian Kitchen by Lara Lee is a great start.
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PROFILE
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PROFILE
THE CHEF’S GARDEN X
MASBIA SOUP KITCHEN BY: C HANA Z E L DA W E ISS
On a sprawling piece of land near the shores of Lake Erie in rural Huron, Ohio, you’ll find The Chef’s Garden, an innovative farm dedicated to growing high-quality crops through natural and environmentally-friendly practices. True to its name, the farm is focused on providing specialty and heirloom vegetables, herbs, microgreens and edible flowers to the most esteemed chefs and restaurants around the world. Their Earth-to-Table™ philosophy focuses on the health and nutrition of the soil first as the foundation to growing high-quality, ultra nutrient-dense crops, using techniques that are somehow both as old as time and incredibly innovative at the same time.
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SOMETHING SWEET
BY: ROSA SEIDENWAR
Snickerdoodle Cookie Ice Cream Sandwiches Yield: 20 cookies, 10 ice cream sandwiches
Chewy snickerdoodles are the best chewy cookies and work perfectly for ice cream sandwiches. For a fun and interactive dessert, create a DIY ice cream sandwich board where everyone can choose their own flavors and toppings; it’s always a big hit for a crowd. ¾ cup oil 1½ + ⅓ cups sugar, divided 2 eggs 2¼ cups flour 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons cinnamon 3-4 cups non-dairy caramel ice cream, slightly softened Toppings of choice, such as sprinkles, mini chocolate chips and chopped candied nuts
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I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream sandwiches! Long, hot summer days call for ice cream and I can’t think of a better way to enjoy this classic summer favorite than in sandwich form. Try these elevated ice cream sandwiches for a surprisingly sweet summer treat.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Whisk oil, 1½ cups sugar and eggs until light and fluffy. Sift in flour, cornstarch, baking soda and salt and mix just until a dough forms. 3. In a separate bowl, mix remaining ⅓ cup sugar with cinnamon for the topping. Using a large cookie scoop, form 20 balls of cookie dough, then roll in the cinnamonsugar mixture. 4. Place cookie dough balls onto prepared baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches between cookies. Bake for 8-10 minutes, until the edges are golden. Transfer cookies to a cooling rack. 5. Once cookies are completely cool, top half of the cookies with a scoop of ice cream, then top with the remaining cookies. Press down gently so that the ice cream is visible from all sides. Roll the sides into toppings of choice. Freeze until ready to serve.
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