Food & Drink

An Evening with Ayala Champagne at THE CLOCKSPIRE

Thursday 3rd November

Indulge yourself with a mouth-watering four-course meal in the incredible 19th century setting of our restaurant whilst sampling four of Ayala’s best champagnes.

Aylya Export Director, Laurence Alamanos, will host the evening in partnership with our Head Chef, Luke and General

Manager, Massimiliano, giving an insight into the company’s long history. We will explore the processes involved in creating the champagnes and why the varieties selected work so well with the evening’s paired food menu. Four-course paired menu and champagne ~ £100 per person Ayala Brut Majeur / Reception & Canapés Ayala Brut Nature / Starter Ayala Le Blanc de Blanc 2015 / Main Ayala Rosé Majeur / Dessert

Opening Hours

Wednesday to Saturday 12 noon – 3:00pm, 6:00pm – 9:30pm Sunday - 12 noon – 4:30pm

The Clockspire Restaurant & Bar

Gainsborough, Milborne Port, Sherborne DT9 5BA

Reservations

01963 251458 host@theclockspire.com www.theclockspire.com

Image: Ed Schofield

MONTGOMERY CHEESE

Joanna Weinberg, Teals

There is little so anchoring for a farm shop as to stand on farmland. Our shop, just off the A303, 10 miles from Sherborne, sits on the land of Montgomery cheese, where cheddar has been made in the same tradition for over a century. Come into the store, and you will see produce and wine stacked high on Montgomery crates. At the cheese counter, the Montgomery cheeses sit centre and back, in pride of place.

Industrially manufactured cheddar is such a commonplace cheese that it’s easy to forget how classy a true heritage cheddar can be. A bite of Montgomery demands your attention. First, you notice the texture: structured yet responsive, immediately beginning to melt in your mouth. The flavour builds slowly, arriving first as a perfume in the nose and then travelling back across your mouth: deep and rich with a nutty, savoury complexity. Ogleshield, Montgomery’s raclettestyle sister cheese, is growing fast in reputation and popularity alongside, with wins in its class at no less than nine British and five world cheese awards.

‘I have a customer who calls our cheddar ‘50 mile cheese’. That’s how far he drives before he loses the taste on his tongue,’ Jamie Montgomery tells me when I visit him at Manor Farm, in North Cadbury. Jamie is the 3rd generation of Montgomerys to take up the cheesemaking mantle.

The farm is much like many you’ll see scattered across our countryside – handsome old stone buildings coexisting with modern barns and sheds. Cattle will graze for as much of the year as the weather allows, usually from mid-April to November, to take advantage of the excellent pasture. These days the farm makes about 15 truckles of cheddar a day, increasing up to 18 from January to March when the milk is at its most plentiful.

To enter the ageing barn is to step back a century in time: a huge space, shelves neatly stacked with some 6,000 truckles – a year’s worth. It’s a striking sight. The one anomaly is the bright red figure of a Henry vacuum cleaner sitting on top of a very tall ladder where it serves as pest control to any potential cheese mites on the rind. The vacuuming of truckles is a job much like the painting of the Golden Gate bridge – as soon as the last one is done, the first one begins again.

‘There was already cheesemaking here before my grandfather arrived in 1911, as there would have been on every dairy farm,’ says Jamie. ‘The grass is good around here – you didn’t have to have many cows before you had too much milk and had to find a way of storing it.’

Jamie has spent his life making cheese in the same way as his grandfather, using the same materials and probably very similar bacteria. The starter bacteria were bred by the 400 or so cheesemakers in Somerset in the 1950s. ‘In the old days, they didn’t know that viruses in the air, known as ‘phages’, could kill the crucial bacteria. They just knew that if they used it for a long time, it would eventually stop working. So when they bred a good one, they’d share it with all the local farms. Then they’d know that if theirs died, they could go to another farm and ask for some of it back.’ It made the ethos of cheesemaking different from every other kind of farming: more ‘we’re in this together’ than ‘you’re on your own’. As a member of the Special Cheesemaking Association, Jamie feels that same camaraderie today.

Protecting the starter bacteria is one of the most important tasks on the farm. They keep seven strains of it alive – one for each day of the week. Shelves carry Monday cheeses, Tuesday cheeses and so on; all are distinctively Montgomery, but each will have a subtly different flavour profile. Some customers even have a preference. ‘Most of my role is tasting and grading cheeses and selecting for customers. I get to see a pattern that nobody else sees and that’s constantly fascinating,’ he says.

The cheeses are as much a favourite with high-end restaurants in London as they are on the family table. When I ask if he’s ever tempted to grow the business, making, and sharing more cheese, he shakes his head. ‘Our ageing rooms are full. It would be impossible to move into new buildings because of the bacteria in these rooms – they are what give our cheese its character and flavour profile.’

Jamie is regularly invited to America to talk to cheesemakers – or rather to share his secrets. ‘They always ask: what’s the one thing they can do that makes the magic? But the truth is, I don’t know.’ It’s in the air of a hundred-year-old barn, it’s in the grass and the rich, sweet balance of the unpasteurised milk. That’s a secret Jamie can’t share if he wanted to.

teals.co.uk montgomerycheese.co.uk

CÔTE DE BOEUF WITH CHIVE HOLLANDAISE & RED ONION ESCABECHE

Jack Smith, The Green

Image: Katharine Davies

Our red onion escabeche recipe has been requested by numerous customers. We serve it with fillet of local beef at the restaurant but it works wonderfully with vegetarian dishes or lamb.

Ingredients 600g côte de boeuf 4 egg yolks 150g unsalted butter 1 lemon 1 bunch of chives 1 tablespoon of tarragon vinegar 300g red wine 300g red wine vinegar 6 bay leaves 2 tablespoons green peppercorns 3 tablespoons soft brown sugar 500g red onions ½ tablespoon salt 10ml olive oil 2 cloves of garlic 3 sprigs rosemary

Method 1 Preheat oven to 180º. Remove your beef from the fridge thirty minutes before you intend to cook to allow it to come to room temperature. Season the beef generously with salt and black pepper. 2 Peel the red onions, chop in half and separate the layers into individual cups. In a large pan combine the red wine, red wine vinegar, bay leaves, green peppercorns, brown sugar and ½ tablespoon of salt.

Bring to the boil add the red onions remove from the heat, cover with cling film and set aside. 3 Melt the butter in a pan and skim off the solids.

In a glass bowl add the egg yolks and tarragon and whisk over a pan of simmering water until the yolks are pale and thick. Slowly incorporate your butter. Finish by adding a squeeze of lemon, thinly chopped chives and salt to taste. 4 Heat up a cast iron pan on a high heat, add the oil and sear the beef for 2 minutes on each side.

Once a crust has formed on the outside of the beef lower the temperature add the remaining butter, rosemary and garlic and baste for 2 minutes.

Transfer the beef onto an oven-proof tray along with the pan juices and cook in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 54 degrees (medium rare). Remove the beef and rest for at least 10 minutes. 5 Remove the onions from the pickling liquid and sear in a hot pan on one side while the beef is resting. 6 Slice the beef onto a large serving dish, decorate with your red onions, spoon over the hollandaise and serve with a rocket salad. Enjoy.

CELEBRATING SOMERSET GOODNESS, TEALS OFFERS RESPONSIBLY SOURCED GOODS FROM FANTASTIC LOCAL PRODUCERS.

At Teals, you’ll find a light and airy restaurant with an all-day rolling seasonal menu of delicious dishes prepared in our own kitchen from local produce. Our food to-go counter offers freshly made seasonal salads and beautifully crafted deli fare. Not forgetting our West Country-roasted organic barista coffee and cakes galore. Explore our gift shop, which is stacked with independent label and eco-friendly gifts and an array of inspiring food, drink and lifestyle books and gifts. Our foodmarket shares the season’s bounty from local growers and producers, alongside our butchery, cheese counter and bottle shop showcasing local ciders, spirits, wine and craft beers.

We’re so much more than a delicious meal, we’re a destination shopping experience set in beautiful surroundings with a traditional orchard. We look forward to meeting you soon!

CALL US

01963 361 755

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

hello@teals.co.uk OPENING TIMES

Food Market/Gifting/Food To Go: 8am-6pm 7 days a week Breakfast: Mon-Sat 8-11am & Sun 9-11am

Lunch: 12-3pm 7 days a week

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A303

NORTH /SOUTH CADBURY JUNCTION

1 ORCHARD LANE, SOUTH CADBURY, YEOVIL, BA22 7FS NORTH CADBURY

NORTH /SOUTH CADBURY JUNCTION A303

EASTBOUND

SOUTH CADBURY

RYE CRACKERS

Paul Collins, Chef

These very tasty crackers are a welcome addition to any meal. I love to use them as a canapé on account of how crispy they are once cooked, or to serve Dorset crab with a little fresh mayonnaise. They are also a very nice way to start a lunch, placed on the table as a light alternative to bread. But of course, they come into their own when you bring them out with a wonderful cheese board. Make more than you need because they are very more-ish and I can guarantee they will get eaten.

They are also very easy and quick to make, so do have a go – they are worth it, just like you!

Ingredients: Serves 6-8. 250g rye flour Pinch of salt 1 ½ tsp honey 140 ml water

Method: 1 Place the flour into a suitable bowl and add all the other ingredients. Mix well. 2 Wrap in clingfilm and then place in the fridge for 30 minutes. 3 Remove from the fridge and roll out very thinly on a floured surface. 4 I tend to cut these into long thin biscuits of irregular shapes just to make an impression when they are served. 5 Bake at 175 OC for 8-10 minutes until nice and crispy. Turn over if necessary to ensure they are crispy all over.

Once cooked, keep in an airtight container.

PUFFBALL STEAK, CHIPS AND BÉARNAISE SAUCE

Mat Follas, Bramble Restaurant Recipe from Vegetables by Mat Follas, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£14.99)

Inage: Steve Painter © Ryland Peters & Small

The top selling dish in many restaurants will be steak, chips and béarnaise sauce; my recipe is more than just a vegetarian substitute. It may not be possible for everyone to get hold of a puffball mushroom, but do give it a try because they’re more than equal to any fillet steak in terms of flavour. Try using Portobello or wild mushrooms as a substitute for the puffball if you can’t get one.

Preparation time: 1 hour Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves: 4

Ingredients 4 large potatoes 1 litre groundnut oil 75ml white wine vinegar 10–12 fresh tarragon leaves 250g unsalted butter 4 egg yolks 1 puffball mushroom Vegetable oil, to coat Table salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

Method 1 Wash and cut large chips out of the potatoes (I prefer them with the skin still on) and rinse them under cold water. 2 Put the chips in a saucepan filled with salted, cold water, set over a medium-high heat and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the chips are just starting to become rough on the edges. Strain then pat dry with paper towels. Chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes. 3 Pour the groundnut oil into a clean saucepan and preheat it to a temperature of 130°C over a medium heat. Carefully put the chips in the oil and cook for about 10 minutes, until slightly golden. Remove from the oil, drain on paper towels and chill in the fridge for another 30 minutes. 4 To make the béarnaise sauce, you will need a handheld electric blender and a jug of about 300ml capacity that is only slightly larger in diameter than the blade end of the blender. 5 Put the vinegar, tarragon leaves and a pinch of black pepper into a small saucepan set over a medium heat. Heat to boiling point, then simmer until the volume has reduced by approximately half. Take the pan off the heat. 6 Slowly melt the butter in a separate pan over a low heat. Pour the liquid butter, vinegar reduction (including the tarragon leaves), egg yolks and a pinch of salt into the jug. Slowly, put the stick blender into the jug, capturing the yolks under the blade. Start with a couple of pulses of the blender, then while continuously blending, pull the stick blender slowly out of the jug combining the butter and yolks to form the sauce. It really is that simple. The sauce will keep for about 45 minutes at room temperature. 7 When you are ready to serve, return the oil to a temperature of 190°C and cook the chips for about 5 minutes, until deeply golden brown. 8 To make the puffball steaks, trim the puffball and carve 4 steaks from it about 2cm thick. Save the rest of the puffball for making a soup or stock. Preheat a grill pan over a medium heat. Heavily oil the steaks with vegetable oil and season generously with table salt and black pepper, before placing them onto the hot grill pan to blacken them and cook through.

Turn three times to create a crisscross pattern from the griddle on both sides. 9 Serve with chips and loads of béarnaise sauce.

THE CAKE WHISPERER Val Stones

COURGETTE, LIME AND MINT CAKE

Image: Katharine Davies

In my recipe book there’s a courgette and lime cake which is delicious. In summer I like to drink lime and mint cordial - absolutely delicious - so I decided to add mint to my courgette cake and, rather than a lime curd filling, to create a lime and mint frosting. Timings - prep time 20 mins, baking time 30-40 mins, making the frosting and decorating 20 minutes. What you will need for the cake - a 30cm x 23cm shallow tin, or 2 x 23cm cake tins. Piping and number 2 nozzle. Hand or stand mixer. Baking parchment.

Serves 24 small squares or 12 rectangles

Ingredients

For the cake

4 medium eggs 200ml vegetable oil, either rapeseed or sunflower oil 180g caster sugar 450g self-raising flour 1/2 teaspoon bicarbonate soda 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1 level teaspoon ground cinnamon 500g courgette, finely grated and squeezed out with your hands to remove some of the moisture Zest of 1/2 an unwaxed lime 4 drops of lime extract 2 tablespoons lime and mint cordial

For the icing

100g cream cheese 100g unsalted butter 500g icing sugar 2 tablespoons lime and mint cordial

To decorate

1 tablespoon lime zest 24 small mint leaves

Method 1 Preheat oven to 180C / 160C fan / Gas 4. Grease and line the sandwich tins or rectangular tin. 2 Using a stand mixer beat together the eggs, oil and sugar in a large bowl until creamy. 3 Sift the flour, bicarbonate soda, baking powder and cinnamon then add to the egg mixture and beat well. 4 Stir in the grated courgettes, lime zest, extract and cordial until well combined. Put into the tin and make a little indent in the mixture to ensure the cake doesn’t peak, or divide the mixture into the cake tins. 5 Bake in the middle of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes. The cake is baked when it is firm to touch and springs back. 6 Remove the cakes from the oven and carefully leave for two minutes then turn out onto a wire rack.

Carefully peel off the paper lining and leave to cool. 7 Once cool you can either decorate and serve or pack the cakes in a freezer container placing parchment between the cakes and freeze for up to a month - I suggest you do not freeze with the icing.

On the evening before the cake is needed get it out of the freezer to defrost at room temperature.

For the icing

8 Beat the cream cheese in a bowl until smooth then add the butter and beat until smooth. 9 Add the icing sugar a dessert spoonful at a time until all combined and stop the mixer to pull down the icing sugar when needed. 10 Finally stir in the lime and mint cordial. 11 If making a round cake sandwich, put about 1/3 of the frosting between the layers and use the rest to decorate the top. 12 If making the tray bake, spread a thin layer of frosting on the top of the cake and then place the rest in a piping bag, pipe roses or stars all across the cake in rows. 13 Scatter the tray bake or cake with lime zest. 14 Mark the tray bake into 24 squares and place a mint leaf on each square. These will both keep for 6 days.

RIESLING

David Copp

Finger Lakes, Upper New York State

Bob Pool/Shutterstock

Riesling is my preferred white wine grape variety because it transmits terroir with greater sensitivity than any other white wine grape that I know. I also admire it because it has a distinct and decisive fragrance and flavour.

Many people dismiss it because they associate it with the inexpensive brands of sweet white wine, usually labelled Liebfraumilch, which poured into Britain in the aftermath of the Second World War when consumers, who had been starved of sugar, tended to like anything sweet.

While many imbibers dislike residual sugar in a wine, I love it. The great wines of Tokaj, the Rhine and Mosel, Alsace and Sauternes are quite beautifully made and have a powerful flavour and fragrance which is quite unforgettable. Yes! They are expensive, but then they are made by craftsmen who understand what wonderful riches nature provides if you are both knowing and patient.

Like Pinot Noir, Riesling is good at expressing its terroir and it ages well. The drier wines can be quite austere in their youth but patience is rewarded. Most of the very best Rieslings I have tasted were made in the Rhine or Mosel valleys. Typically they were dry, crisp, elegant wines with green apple and peach flavours, perhaps more obviously slatey in Mosel.

I am pleased to see wine merchants giving more floor space to Riesling wines. We should take advantage of the superb growing conditions at the northern limits

of grape growing in Europe where weathered slate is the typical ’soil’.

In Alsace, where the southeast-facing Vosges provide almost perfect conditions for growing Riesling – the wines tend to be more floral and perfumed. It is in Alsace that one of the world’s truly remarkable wines is made. Clos St Hune is a small vineyard with a modest output but I have been known to drive quite a long way to taste its best vintages because they are so special.

Why do I admire Riesling so much? I think it is because it is very much a product of its environment and transmits the character of its terroir in a subtle, understated way. Riesling wines develop their flavours gradually and age gracefully. Indeed if the Riesling ripens too quickly it doesn’t deliver the same intensity of flavour.

There are so many good small firms producing top-quality wines that it is best to seek advice. Because I have a modest budget and I admire Ernst Loosen as a man and a winemaker, I tend to look out for his wines in good wine merchants and supermarkets.

The Mosel wines suit me better because they are lighter in alcohol (often eight or nine degrees), crisp, and full of flavour. I recommend newcomers to Riesling to start with Mosel Rieslings before moving on to the great Rheingau Rieslings. Our company used to represent Rauenthaler Nonnenberg, one of the very best single vineyard Rieslings. The wines are now made by Georges Bruer and if you have a special occasion this Riesling will not let you down.

Riesling lends itself to many different expressions from very dry to very sweet. The top sweet wines are relatively expensive because yields are small and such special wines need time to develop. I recommend starting with light dry Mosel before graduating to the fuller-bodied Rheingau wines.

However, do not forget that outstanding Riesling wines are also made in Alsace, Austria, Hungary, the Clare and Eden Valleys of Australia, the Finger Lakes of Upper New York State and in Northern California. South Africa and New Zealand have also identified good sites.

If you want to compare sources of Riesling beyond central Europe, I can recommend the aforementioned Clare Valley (£8-10) and Dr Konstantin Frank's Dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes (£16). However, my advice is to start in the classic regions of Germany and France before moving on to New World offerings. I feel sure that with a pit of patience you will find excellent Riesling wines that will make you a real fan of the variety.

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