Food & Drink

Image: Ed Schofield

GOOD STOCK

NO.1 WILD GARDEN, GALHAMPTON Joanna Weinberg, Teals

In this new series, we go behind the scenes to meet some of the inspiring artisan producers, makers, farmers and growers that supply Teals, a new foodie destination off the A303 in South Cadbury and recent winners of Best Farm Shop 2022.

‘All I know is that I love this place. The feeling of it,’ says Nick Ross to me, stretching out his arms to show that he is talking about the 2-acre plot that is Wild Garden, where he and his partner Tia Cusden live and work. I have arrived early one morning at the height of the harvesting season at their market garden in Galhampton, 10 miles north of Sherborne, which specialises in organic leaves for salad and cooking.

It is a magical place, a balance of nature-friendly wilderness and strictly laid out beds, filled with an abundance of healthy and bountiful green leaves. A chequerboard of lime green Expertise and deep purple-red curly-leafed Haflex lettuce sit alongside neat rows of ruby-stalked chard and almost black cavolo nero, their leaves whole and perfect and packed with intense flavours and dense nutrients.

Tunnels in the next garden section house tomato plants, their stalks supported by vertical strings, densely fruited with tomatoes of all shapes, sizes and colours, from the bright orange cherry Goldiana, and the rich purple variety Black Cherry to the ridged, pinky-red beefsteak Saint Pierre. The next tunnel is home to cucumbers which will never be coated in plastic, whose pale green flesh is dense, with an aromatic flavour and substantial crunch. Outside, peppery nasturtiums clamber the length of the tunnel like unruly children, joyful in their bright yellows, oranges and fiery reds.

The bags of their salad I hold in my hand are astonishingly beautiful. The leaves are varied

and colourful, bright and vigorous, and nestled amongst them, fronds and tendrils of herbs, and the purple, blue and orange of edible flower petals. Tossed with olive oil, cider vinegar and a scrunch of flaky salt, they taste quite unlike any bagged salad you will buy from a supermarket. They are sharp and mild, peppery and milky, they have crunch and texture. They taste alive.

‘At the height of the season, we cut 60-80kg of lettuce a week to supply our customers. We get 2-3 crops from each depending on the type. We have played around with varieties and because we are organic, we’re very strict and fussy about what works. In summer, we add herbs like chervil and dill and edible flowers. In the winter we have rockets and mustards and small brassica leaves to add variety and interest,’ says Tia.

Little has been mechanised in the garden. Seeds are brought on in the tunnels and planted out as seedlings by hand to ensure an ongoing supply throughout the year. ‘We’ve just planted our autumn crop which should get us through until spring and then we rotate them around the garden. It’s a loose rotation – we don’t have club root here so we don’t have to worry about the brassicas. We just make sure we don’t plant the same things in the same place year after year.’

The leaves grow 11 months of the year; it is only January that is quiet, when there is no growth. Nature, as well as Nick and Tia, need to take a month of rest to reset.

The land, like so much in the area, was originally a cider and perry orchard, and several large apple and pear trees stand sentinel around the patch, which was, in 2015 when Nick and Tia found it, a pony paddock. They bought it with the dream of starting a market garden and eventually building a home on it. Part of the ethos of the Wild Garden project was to keep much of the area wild, so they grow on less than half of the land they own.

Inspiration came from a course they took in forest gardening – a fruit garden with nut trees and food bushes, creating forest conditions where there’s food to pick as well. ‘We’ve got walnut trees coming on, cobnuts and sweet chestnuts, and then we’ve got trees that are just good for the land, like Italian alders and these hedges around the side here are Elaeagnus umbellata (autumn olive) which are good for bringing up nutrients from the soil. They create a massive mycorrhizal network,’ says Tia.

It is an enchanted place for nature. Insects hover around wildflowers, and alongside birdsong. I stand still and watch the butterflies dance. I can hear the shush-shushing noises of the willows and Scots pines they have planted, moving in the breeze. At the top of the patch, there is a new pond to further entice wildlife, and 4 hives of wild bees which they have taken on from local beekeeper Jo Bleasdale, and are learning from him to look after with the least amount of intervention. They hope that over time, they will be able to take some honey off for the winter.

Weaving together theories of organic and bio-intensive gardeners such as John Geavens, Eliot Coleman and others, Nick and Tia have firmly established themselves as significant and inspiring growers in the organic movement. Wild Garden now attracts other growers who come and volunteer on their days off, to learn and share ideas, and over time, they plan to launch courses for people who want to learn their methods.

Increasingly they are interested in sharing their knowledge, in passing it on to a new generation of growers, particularly younger ones who are motivated by both finding ways to solve the food supply issues coming towards us, but seeking something else too, some kind of meaning and purpose. ‘You find meaning when you work on the land and when you’re surrounded by nature. It’s healing,’ says Nick, looking around him. ‘We’d like to start running courses here, to build a roundhouse where we can sit and talk over ideas for how to grow better. There’s so much noise and distraction in the world, and when they come, it’s peaceful here.’ Later that morning, I, too, find myself reluctant to leave, and hope very much, whether it’s through a bite of peppery salad, or a course one day in the future, I will find an ongoing connection with this special place.

TOMATO AND RED PEPPER GAZPACHO WITH PARSLEY OIL AND CROUTONS

Sasha Matkevich, The Green

Image: Clint Randall

This classic chilled soup is the perfect dish for a heatwave. We currently serve it to all our customers as an amuse-bouche and it has proved a big hit.

Ingredients 500g red peppers 500g plum tomatoes 2 cucumbers, peeled 1½ garlic cloves, minced ½ bunch of basil ½ bunch of coriander ½ bunch of parsley ½ bunch of rosemary 3 sprigs of thyme 1ltr tinned tomatoes 30g white wine vinegar 200g olive oil 500g sourdough 2 tsp tabasco Salt Pepper

Method 1 Remove the seeds from the red peppers and chop

roughly with the plum tomatoes and cucumber. 2 Add your chopped ingredients to a large plastic bowl along with the basil, coriander, thyme, white wine vinegar, 100g olive oil, Tabasco, tinned tomatoes and ½ a garlic clove. Give everything a good mix, cover with cling film and set aside in the fridge for at least 6 hours. 3 Whilst your gazpacho is marinating bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the parsley leaves to the boiling water and cook for 30 seconds. 4 Remove and immediately transfer them to iced water to stop them cooking. Once cooled drain the parsley from the water and blend with 90g of oil.

Pass through a muslin cloth and set aside. 5 Pre-heat oven to 180ºC, dice the sourdough into 2cm cubes and coat with the remaining oil, garlic and rosemary. Add to a baking tray and cook for 10 minutes or until crisp and golden. 6 After your gazpacho has finished marinating, blitz in a food processor or blender and pass through a fine sieve or chinois. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 7 To serve, pour your gazpacho into chilled bowls, decorate with your parsley oil and croutons and enjoy.

CELEBRATING SOMERSET GOODNESS, TEALS OFFERS RESPONSIBLY SOURCED GOODS FROM FANTASTIC LOCAL PRODUCERS.

It features a restaurant, food market, butcher, bakery, cheese counter, bottle shop selling wine local cider, and beer, a gift shop with independent-label gifts and healthy food to go. A healthy kitchen will serve nourishing plates from across the region. We can’t wait to welcome you, through our doors to sample the local produce and enjoy the orchard. If you fancy a trip out with a friend or an alternative to shopping in the supermarkets this is a great destination worth exploring.

CALL US

01963 361755

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

hello@teals.co.uk

OPENING TIMES

8am-6pm 7 days a week

WESTBOUND

A303 1 ORCHARD LANE, SOUTH CADBURY, YEOVIL, BA22 7FS

NORTH /SOUTH CADBURY JUNCTION NORTH CADBURY

NORTH /SOUTH CADBURY JUNCTION

SOUTH CADBURY A303

EASTBOUND

TOMATO SOUP

Paul Collins, Chef

Image: Tory McTernan

One of the many things I love to make when they are at the height of the season is a wonderfully rich tomato soup. It never fails to make those around me so happy with its rich, deep flavour. If you can use any tomatoes that have gone overripe even better, and also a handful of cherry tomatoes makes it even sweeter. When I make this lunchtime favourite, I always bake the tomatoes first to bring all the juices out of them – this gives it such a rich smooth finish when you blend it. Freeze any left over to extend the season.

Ingredients Makes 2.7 ltr = 8-10 portions 50ml olive oil 4 banana shallots 1 carrot 4 cloves of garlic 500g ripe tomatoes 2 tins chopped tomatoes (tinned tomatoes contain a higher lycopene content) 500ml stock or 2 tsp Marigold bouillon made up to 500ml 2 dessert spoons of organic tomato ketchup or a pinch of sugar

Method 1 Roughly chop the tomatoes and place on a baking tray and bake in the oven for about 20 minutes on 180°c. They should give up quite a bit of juice, but we want them to be slightly browned off. 2 Peel and chop the shallots and the garlic, grate the carrot finely and then sweat off gently together in the olive oil on a low heat until nice and translucent. You could add thyme stalks or basil stalks if you have some to hand. 3 Add the baked tomatoes and the tinned tomatoes to the cooked shallots and carrot and cook for another 3-4 minutes. 4 Now add the stock and the ketchup/sugar. 5 Simmer gently for at least 20 minutes then buzz very smoothly in the blender. 6 Pass through a very fine sieve. Season if required. 7 Serve with olive oil and basil if desired.

chefpaulcollins.co.uk

BARBECUED OCTOPUS WITH GRILLED LEMONS

Mat Follas, Bramble Restaurant

Image: Steve Painter

Octopus are delicious and dramatic to serve. This is a simple barbecue recipe that is best cooked outside as it is very smoky - the results are fun and a great talking point over conventional barbecue fare. Prepare the octopus and use the legs cleaned of any hard ‘suckers’. Resist the temptation to cook the octopus for more than a couple of minutes or it will be like eating rubber, one minute on each side is plenty of cooking time.

Preparation time: 15 minutes Marinating time: 12 hours Cooking time: 5 minutes Serves: 4

Ingredients 8 lemons 250ml plain yoghurt 2 tsp coriander seeds 2 tsp ground cumin seeds 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp allspice mix 2 tsp caster sugar The legs of 1 large octopus (approx 1 kg), cleaned and portioned

Method 1 Begin by making the marinade. Mix the juice and zest of 4 of the lemons with the yoghurt and spices in a mixing bowl. 2 Coat the octopus legs with the marinade, cover and set in the fridge to chill overnight. 3 The next day, cut the remaining lemons into three slices each, sprinkle with a little sugar and set on the barbecue (or large ridged stovetop grill pan if cooking indoors) for 2-3 minutes until dark grill marks are formed. 4 Turn the lemons over to cook the other side and add the octopus legs to the barbecue or pan. Turn the legs after 1 minute and cook the other side in the same way. 5 Serve the legs immediately with the grilled lemons - these can be squeezed over, or eaten with the legs.

Tip: You can serve the octopus legs on their own, with a bowl of salad or in bread rolls to make an octopus hotdog.

bramblerestaurant.com

Recipe from Fish by Mat Follas, published by Ryland Peters & Small (£14.99)

DATE, APPLE AND SESAME SEED SQUARES

Bramley apples are perfect for this bake and work so well with dates, giving a deliciously moist texture. The sesame seeds add a slightly nutty flavour. I try to create bakes that are bonehealthy so the inclusion of dates and sesame seeds offers the benefit of calcium, iron and minerals.

Serves 9 -16 depending on how you cut the squares Preparation time 20 minutes Baking Time 30-35 minutes

What you will need 18cm square baking pan for a deep mixture or 23cm square pan for a more shallow bake. Saucepan, microwavable bowl (or a second saucepan), baking paper/silicone sheet and wooden spoon.

Ingredients 210g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing 200g cooking apples peeled, cored and chopped small 2 tablespoons water 150g stoned dates, chopped 1-2 tablespoon date syrup depending on how sweet you like your apples 50g sesame seeds 200g soft brown sugar 225g plain flour 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 130g porridge oats ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons apricot jam to brush over the baked slice

Method 1 Heat the oven to 190ºC (170ºC fan), gas mark 5. 2 Grease the square pan and line with baking parchment or a silicone liner. 3 Place the prepared apples in a saucepan with 2 tablespoons water, bring to the boil and allow to simmer until tender and pulpy. 4 Add the dates, 50g of the brown sugar and the date syrup, simmer for a further 5 minutes. Take off the heat and, with a wooden spoon, break the apples and dates down until mixed well together.

Set aside to cool. 5 Gently melt the butter in the second pan or for 1 minute in a microwavable bowl (cover the bowl to prevent the butter ‘spitting’ if using the microwave). 6 Combine the flour, bicarb, oats, sesame seeds and remaining sugar in a bowl and mix well. 7 Pour the melted butter into the oat mixture until the oats are well coated, add the vanilla extract and cinnamon and combine. 8 Press half the oat mixture firmly into the bottom of the pan, spread the apple mixture evenly over the base. 9 Cover the apple mixture with the remaining oat mixture and press down firmly. Ensure all of the apple layer is covered and sealed. 10 Place in the oven and bake for 30-35 minutes until golden brown and firm. Whilst still warm brush the top with a little apricot jam. 11 Allow to cool in the pan. Once cold, tip the bake onto a board and cut into 9, 12 or 16 pieces. 12 Store in an airtight container – they will keep for a week and they freeze well for 2 months.

A MONTH ON THE PIG FARM

James Hull, The Story Pig

It’s early evening and I am sitting outside in the shade next to the tipi. The dust is streaming out of the pig ark into the sunshine as the piglets fight for their mother’s milk – there is a constant rumpus going on as 60 piglets fight over their 6 poor mums. As soon as it cools down I am going to wean them from their mothers. They are eating lots of hard food now and are ready to start out on their own. In actual fact, they won’t bat an eyelid and their mothers will surely be glad of a break from the needle-sharp teeth. The sows will be moved and shared out 3 each to our 2 boars Dillon and Fred and like clockwork, five days from weaning almost to the hour they will come on heat and the cycle starts again.

Pigs don’t like these high temperatures any more than we do. They do not sweat as we do so to keep cool they need mud! I add the water for them and they do the rest. I have a dripping water pipe in every paddock and as if by magic they dig and roll and rub until from nowhere a hole appears. The pigs flop in the muddy soup, cover themselves in thick mud and then climb out and bask in the sun until they are too hot and then repeat the process. I have been feeding them at five in the morning and even then they are often shining with wet mud after an early morning dip. Without these watery wallows our pigs would die from heat stress so the dripping pipes are a small price to pay for healthy animals.

All around us the combines have been rolling easily through the bone-dry crops, dust spreading far and wide in their wake. As a farmer, there’s no surer sign of summer, but for us here, with no crops and no combine, a surer way to judge things is to look at the freezer and see how our little cafe visitors devour our Purbeck ice cream – sitting in the sunshine with their sun hats at a jaunty angle, chocolate smudges on their faces giving the game away. That’s summer right there.

This month Communifit will be running a cycle ride starting and finishing here and we run an open farm day alongside it. You don’t have to cycle, the day is for everyone young and old..er. We will be having live music, cider, trailer rides around the farm, our own hog roast and it’s just a great relaxed day…unless you have just cycled 50 miles, in that case, you might be looking for a cider!

I have to tell you – I have succumbed and just pinched an ice cream from the freezer. No trace of chocolate smudges but please don’t tell Charlotte!

THE DEVELOPMENT OF ENGLISH SPARKLING WINE

Furleigh Estate, Bridport

David Copp

Image: Katharine Davies

In 1997, the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh toasted their golden wedding anniversary at a Guildhall luncheon in the city with a glass of English sparkling wine produced by an American couple from Chicago.

Stuart Moss, who had made his money in dental and medical equipment, was a frequent visitor to the UK with his wife. They fell in love with the rolling Sussex countryside and bought an old manor house with an apple orchard. Looking for a retirement project they decided to make an English sparkling wine.

The general reaction in England was ‘they must be mad’. However, successful entrepreneurs such as the Mosses, have a natural eye for business opportunities. They realised that the soils and climate in Sussex were identical to Champagne, and converted their orchard into a vineyard, determined to make an English sparkling wine good enough to compete with Champagne.

They went to Champagne for help and advice and were well received because they were considered a slightly eccentric couple who did not pose a threat to the Champagne industry. The French were also pleased to sell them top-quality chardonnay, pinot meunier and pinot noir rootstock and the best sparkling winemaking equipment.

Nine years later in 1997, they produced their first vintage. I remember well that it was greeted with criticism by some of my colleagues who soon had to eat humble pie when, a few years later, Nyetimber won the gold medal for sparkling wine in the International Wine and Spirits Competition.

As a result of their success, many other would-be vintners decided to ‘have a go’. England now produces some of the world’s very best sparkling wines and exports them in growing quantities to many world markets and notably the USA, Japan and Scandinavia.

When the Mosses retired, they sold Nyetimber and it was eventually purchased by the Dutch entrepreneur Eric Heerema who appointed truly world-class Canadian winemakers Sheree Spriggs and Brad Greatrix to take the quality of the wines to new heights. Many other English winemakers followed their example. Ridgeview planted their first vineyard in the South Downs and Furleigh Estate and Bride Valley in Dorset were just some of the many prepared to invest in the English wine business who have made a name for themselves with extremely well-crafted wines with a freshness of flavour that delights sparkling wine drinkers.

When the first sparkling wine labels were designed, producers tried to hide the fact that the wine was English because, at the time, England had no reputation as a wine producer. Now English is the word of which they are most proud.

England has almost perfect conditions for producing great sparkling wines but within fifty years or so we will probably be producing more chardonnay and pinot noir in the Burgundian style.

Climate warmth will lead to the loss of the acidity and freshness essential for great sparkling wine. Rosé is predicted to become more popular; pinot noir our next great success. I have tasted pinot wines from the Camel Valley that suggests good pinot noir is well on its way. There is certainly plenty of good vineyard land in Wales and the West Country, East Anglia and the Midlands. Warmer weather will increase yields but reduce the ideal levels of acidity for great sparkling wines.