OAST - Issue 1 / Autumn 2018

Celebrating beer and pubs ISSUE 1 / AUTUMN 2018

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WELCOME 4 Welcome to Oast, the new magazine from Shepherd Neame. We’ve been brewing beer and running pubs for centuries and we’re passionate about what we do.

We’re also proud of our Kentish homeland and its people, its wonderful produce and beautiful coastline and countryside.

The Great British Pub

We work with some extraordinary people, not just here in Kent, but in London and beyond and they all contribute in some way to all that’s great about British beer and pubs.

BISHOPS FINGER AT 60

Oast is a celebration of all of these things and in this issue you’ll find articles exploring what the pub means to the British psyche, an insight into the history of hops in Kent, and a pie recipe (it has beer in it).

As with much in life this magazine is best enjoyed accompanied by a pint or two, perhaps while idling away a dark autumn afternoon in the pub, but wherever you happen to read it, we hope you enjoy it and if you have any suggestions for future features or contributions, we’d love to hear from you. Cheers.

Benedict O’Connor Editor

Exploring the pub’s place in British life

6 The story of a classic strong ale

9 FIVE MINUTES WITH...

Head brewer Mike Unsworth

10 THE HOME OF THE HOP How Kent became synonymous with hops

12 MISTS, MELLOW FRUITFULNESS AND PIE A recipe for autumnal happiness

Editorial: Kathryn Tye Benedict O’Connor John Owen

13 FROM FARM TO TABLE

Design: Go Vicinity Creative www.govicinity.com 01227 760116 All enquiries: boconnor2@shepherd-neame.co.uk 01795 542263

Meet the farmer behind Kentish salad

14 SEARCHING FOR THE NEW GIN In search of the next big thing in the world of spirits

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THE GREAT BRITISH PUB The pub is described in the Oxford English Dictionary as ‘an establishment for the sale of beer and other drinks, and sometimes food, to be consumed on the premises.’ While not incorrect, this is like describing a dog as an animal with four legs. It tells you very little about the thing itself.

So what is a pub?

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The Bear, Faversham

Miller’s Arms, Canterbury

It’s so many things. It’s a place of refuge, of camaraderie, a place, as the song goes ‘where everybody knows your name’.

Equally it’s a place where you can go to be alone, to enjoy a solitary pint while staring into space. It’s a warm embrace, an old friend, a place to meet old friends and make new ones. Historically it’s been a place where plans and schemes are hatched, the cradle of a million pipe dreams and just occasionally the backdrop to an act of genius.

At lunchtime on February 28th, 1953 Francis Crick burst into The Eagle in Cambridge to announce to the presumably indifferent patrons that he and James Watson had in their work on the structure of DNA ‘discovered the secret of life’.

In this pub the duo worked out a highly influential framework for the future of molecular biology. In this pub undergraduates beyond number have talked nonsense beyond measure. The pub itself is as much an idea as it is a physical place. In 1946 George Orwell described his favourite pub, the Moon Under Water, in an article

Clothworkers Arms, Sutton Valence

for the Evening Standard, listing the ten key points that made it so.

These included ‘uncompromisingly Victorian’ architecture and fittings, a snack counter selling liversausage sandwiches and the option of drinking your beer out of ‘strawberry pink china mugs.’

At the end of the article he revealed that the pub did not exist, but was merely his vision of how the perfect pub ought to be.

In all probability there are more ideas of how the ideal pub should be than there are pubs.

For hundreds of years the pub has survived and thrived by adapting to reflect the changing ideals of successive generations.

Once the smoke-filled haunt of a largely male working populace, the pub is an increasingly inclusive affair, a place of good food with an interesting beer and wine selection and great coffee.

Shepherd Neame has 327 pubs, all of them different, each united by a desire to offer the best experience possible to our customers. It is this desire that will ensure the Great British Pub remains a defining feature of our national identity, however you describe it.

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BISHOPS FINGER: 60 years old and still going strong Bishops Finger is a rich and complex beer that offered a two-fingered salute to the lingering blandness of post-war austerity.

Its appearance in 1958 was a celebratory revival of the full flavours of Strong Kentish Ales heralded by the long overdue end of malt rationing.

The heavy toll of victory in WWII was still being felt in many areas of British life long after the VE day hangovers had faded. It is tempting to imagine the end of the war ushered in a time of plenty, and therefore sobering to learn that bread only began to be rationed in 1946.

It was not until 1954 that food rationing ended and something like normal life began to resume. The eventual restoration of a healthy supply of malt for brewing provided the catalyst for the creation of Bishops Finger, which was first made commercially available in 1958.

The enduring dark, rich character of Bishops Finger was born of this change in fortunes and now in its 60th year of production, remains one of the nation’s favourites.

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Funny name?

It takes its name from the finger-shaped signposts guiding pilgrims to the tomb of Thomas a Becket in Canterbury.

Did you know?

Bishops Finger holds EU Protected Geographical Indication, recognising its unique provenance, the same protection enjoyed by Champagne and Melton Mowbray Pork Pies.

Tasting notes: Toffee and lightly roasted nutty flavours combine with dried fruit and peppery spice for a bitter orange finish.

Food matching: Try it with Beef Wellington and/or Spotted Dick.

Bishops Finger Original press release, 1958

What else happened in 1958?

The plastic hula hoop went on sale in the US The first parking meters were introduced in UK Singer songwriter Paul Weller, founder of the Jam and the Style Council, was born James Bond novel Dr No was published The Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament was founded Brazil beat Sweden 5-2 to win the World Cup Final in Sweden The Beatles (then the Quarrymen) made their first recording (a version of Buddy Holly’s That’ll Be The Day, with a b-side In Spite of All the Danger, written by Paul McCartney and George Harrison) Jennifer Saunders of Ab Fab and French and Saunders fame was born 7

FIVE MINUTES WITH…

SHEPHERD NEAME’S MASTER BREWER Name: Mike Unsworth Title: Master Brewer and Operations Manager for Shepherd Neame

When did you first get into beer?

I joined the Courage group in 1989 after completing a sandwich year at the Charles Wells Brewery as part of my degree in industrial biology. The brewery closed in 2010 and I worked for a short time as an operations manager for Coca Cola before moving overseas to become plant manager at The Cascade Brewery Company in Tasmania.

I joined Shepherd Neame in April this year.

What sparked your decision to get into the beer industry?

Probably the experience during my university course. It was such an exciting work environment and I was really impressed by the passion and enthusiasm of the brewing team. It looked like a great industry to become involved with.

Which brew sparked your love of beer?

I’m originally from Liverpool, so probably Higsons Bitter, which was the first beer I had in a pub.

What would you be as a beer?

I think a new style Pale Ale, traditional but with a fresh new flavour.

What is your favourite hop variety and why?

I quite like Centennial as it fulfils a number of uses, from bittering to delivering a good earthy and floral aroma.

What is your overall goal in the beer world?

To work with our team to develop an interesting range of quality beers, from the more traditional brews to exciting contemporary styles.

Where are you happiest?

In a traditional pub with friends on a sunny day, enjoying some cool beers.

What is your greatest vice?

Too much time being at my happiest in the pub!

What is your proudest achievement in beer?

Being involved in the development of new beers that prove popular with drinkers. During my time at Cascade, I was proud to oversee the revamp of its product portfolio with vintage-style packaging, new beers and new recipes for existing brews, and we saw a significant surge in sales as a result.

What is your ultimate beer and food pairing?

Now I’m living in the Garden of England, I don’t think you can beat traditional British pub food and a good Kentish Ale. Steak and Ale Pie with a pint of Spitfire always goes down well!

Which beer style do you find it impossible to get along with?

I am lucky enough to enjoy most beers and lagers but find the very light flavoured American/South American lagers a little challenging.

If you weren’t working in beer, what would you be doing?

I think maybe a chef, as the principles aren’t too dissimilar to those of brewing. In order to ensure a good result you need thorough preparation, quality ingredients, strict hygiene, and to follow some key rules and timings.

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THE HOME OF HOPS: CELEBRATING OUR HERITAGE Historian John Owen

Shepherd Neame archivist and historian John Owen explores the history of hops and their continuing importance to Faversham and the surrounding countryside.

Kent is known as the Garden of England for its abundance of produce, including its arguably most famous crop - the hop.

The county was the first and most successful area for hop farming in the UK, and the tall hop gardens and their adjacent oasts are a characteristic feature of Kent’s landscape.

Faversham’s links with beer and hops can be traced back to the 10th Century. The earliest evidence of hops in the UK comes from an Anglo-Saxon trading boat which was built around 900AD and discovered in the nearby Graveney marshes in 1970.

Faversham's first known link with brewing came in 1147 when King Stephen founded a Benedictine Abbey, less than a-third-of-a-mile from our current brewery site.

It didn’t take the Cluniac monks long to discover that Faversham’s natural chalk-filtered mineral water could be combined with locally-grown malted barley to produce a very fine ale.

Town records show that by 1327, brewing was firmly established in Faversham and was conducted by no fewer than 86 women, known as ale wives. Most of them sold their ale from their homes, but some were innkeepers.

16th Century depiction of hop picking

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The first reference to beer in Faversham is in 1394 in the town records. By 1507, a Brewhouse had been built in Partridge Lane, quite possibly on part of the area we occupy today.

The first named beer brewer in Faversham is John Castlock in 1550, and by 1573, his son John Castlock was brewing at 18 Court Street. Recent research has shown that the Faversham Brewery, now Shepherd Neame, has been brewing Kentish ales continuously on this site ever since, much earlier than our official founding date of 1698.

As Britain’s oldest brewer, we are immensely proud of our heritage, which includes the important role played by the Kentish hop.

Indeed, almost all the hops we currently use, and a proportion of the malted barley, are grown in Kent.

We are also guardians of Kent’s hop heritage and have set aside an area of land we own in Ospringe, on the outskirts of Faversham, to house the National Hop Collection – this contains over 250 different varieties – some of which date back to the 18th century.

By so doing we are not only preserving our past but safeguarding the future of this most precious plant.

Faversham Hop Festival

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MISTS, MELLOW FRUITFULNESS & PIE As John Keats almost said, Autumn is the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and pie. Everyone knows pie is best served with beer, both in it and with it, so here’s a rather special pie recipe from Nicky Martin at the Carriage Restaurant at the Railway Hotel, Faversham.

Makes 4 individual pies (using 4 inch x 2 inch pie tins)

1. Heat a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil in

5. Line the pie tins with butter, dust with flour and

800g Diced Chuck Beef

a large pan and seal the meat until it gains colour.

divide the pastry into quarters - save a third of each

2 Diced Large Carrots

2. Remove the meat from the pot, add the butter,

2 Banana Shallots

onions and vegetables and cook for 5 minutes.

FILLING

500ml Rich Beef Stock 2 Sticks of Celery A Bouquet Garni of Thyme and Bay Leaves 100g Butter 1 Bottle of Shepherd Neame Double Stout

3. Return the meat to the pan, adding the flour to soak up the butter, and add the beef stock little by little. Add half the Double Stout and keep stirring until you get a thick stew consistency.

for the pie lids. Roll the pasty on a floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin and line the tins.

6. Fill the tins ¾ with the filling and add the lids, making sure to crimp the edges and add a slit into the top to let out steam. Egg wash the top and place into a pre heated fan oven at 180 degrees for 34/45 minutes.

3 tablespoons of Plain Flour

4. Turn the heat down very low (or transfer to a

1 Egg beaten for egg wash

slow cooker) add the bouquet garni and cook for between 2-3 hours until the meat is soft and tender. Add salt and pepper to taste, take off

Shortcrust Pastry

the heat and add the remaining Double Stout.

375g Unsalted Butter

Salt & Pepper 1. Mix together by hand or using a food processor, add ice cold water to bind the pastry (no more than half a cup).

2. Wrap in clingfilm and leave to rest in the fridge for at least one hour.

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TOP TIPS

700g Plain Flour The pastry and filling can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept in the fridge, to save time on the day.

If Double Stout doesn’t take your fancy, try Bishops Finger or 1698 Use the best, fresh ingredients you can buy.

It makes a huge difference to the taste.

Harvest team leader Petronela Bucur

FROM FARM TO TABLE

When you last went out for a meal, did you stop to think about the origin of the ingredients on your plate?

are such a longstanding business in the area. And our produce can be picked this morning and on your plate tomorrow. That freshness is just one of the benefits of buying local.”

More and more people are doing just that, with research showing that use of local produce is now a leading factor for British consumers when deciding when and where to eat out*.

The business employs 30 full-time employees along with 100 seasonal employees who help with harvesting from May to October.

They want greater provenance transparency and to know that only a small number of food miles were involved.

Petronella (pictured) and her team will be in the fields at 5am, picking the salad to order ready for distribution that evening.

One of the farms to have benefited from this attitudinal shift is independent family business Laurence J. Betts Ltd., based in the picturesque village of Offham in Kent.

It grows salad and wheat over 1,700 acres, and specialises in supplying local wholesalers and markets.

Managing director Stephen Betts is the fourth generation of the Betts family to run the farm since it was first tenanted by his great-grandfather James Rayner Betts in 1901.

He said: “People know about the provenance of our produce, as we

“

Managing Director Stephen Betts

OUR PRODUCE CAN BE PICKED THIS MORNING AND ON YOUR PLATE TOMORROW

The farm grows 22 million lettuces, 800 acres of wheat and produces 1,800 tonnes of baby leaf each year.

While some necessary mechanisation is involved there is still a significant amount of work done by hand, including guiding the seed planting, cutting the lettuces, weighing the salad and hand-bagging all lettuces.

”

One of the farm’s major clients is lesaler R J Kingsland & Son which supplies Shepherd Neame’s estate of managed pubs, inns and hotels.

Stephen said: “It is a very satisfying job as we get to sow it, grow it, harvest it, sell it and then see it on the plate in a pub. If I’m eating out, I can spot our lettuce immediately!”

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Revival, boom, revolution, call it what you will, in recent years there has been a remarkable surge in the popularity of gin which shows no signs of abating.

To put this in some sort of context consumption of gin in Britain grew by an estimated 12% last year, and for the first time ever duty paid to the Treasury on spirits exceeded that of beer. There are 315 distilleries producing gin in Britain according to HM Revenue and Customs, a figure which represents a 200% increase in the number of gin producers in the last five years.

By the time that figure was published earlier this year it was already out of date as more and more producers continue to join the market.

But can it last, have we reached gin saturation point, so to speak? Evidence at recent trade shows suggests that producers and retailers are on the hunt for the next big thing in spirits, with much of the smart money edging toward rum and with some perhaps less likely candidates rearing their heads. White port anyone?

Simone Spagnoli of Mr Fogg’s is particularly well placed when it comes to gauging what’s happening in the drinks world. Mr Fogg’s, part of the Inception group, is a collection of extraordinary London bars, inspired by the Jules Verne novel Around the World in 80 Days that have to be experienced to be believed, and even then you’re not entirely sure you believe it.

“Gin is relatively easy to make,” explains Simone, “And relatively easy to bring to market. If you add to that the endless combinations of botanicals and flavours, it’s easy to see why so many people are producing gin.”

Mr Fogg’s Gin Parlour in Covent Garden stocks more than 200 different types of gin, but even with such large numbers the market is competitive.

“There seems to be two or three new producers every few weeks, so it’s those that are doing something different or doing it particularly well that are breaking through.”

But it’s not just other gin producers they have to contend with. “There are some really good agavebased drinks (mescal, tequila, stool, bacanora, raicila) on the market and I had a really interesting whisky from Australia recently.

“There’s also a vodka distilled from bark that I like and there’s a spirit made from the sap of birch trees that goes very well with elderflower, so there are some great things happening all over the world. Rum is becoming really big and I think it will get bigger.”

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Mr Fogg’s Residence

Nevertheless, there are still new and surprising gins emerging, such as one that changes colour when you add tonic as it alters the chemical make-up of quinine and another made with flowers.

So what’s the next big thing? “Like I said, I think rum will become more popular, but for me it’s still gin.”

So there it is, gin is the new gin.

SEARCHING FOR THE NEW GIN Simone Spagnoli of Mr Fogg’s

Mr Fogg’s House of Botanicals