City Guide 2018

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L O C AT E D AT 18 0 0 E . NORT H AV E N U E ON M I LWAU K E E ’ S E A S T SI DE W W W.T H E WA X W I NG .C OM FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @THEWAXWING TO SEE NEW ARRIVALS AS THEY COME IN! ! " # " SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

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ilwaukee has seen many changes since 1982 when the Shepherd Express, Milwaukee’s weekly newspaper and daily website, debuted. At that time, our city was in decline by many measures as the oncethriving “Machine Shop of the World” was sinking into the Rust Belt, and the “City That Means Beer” was losing its breweries. The city’s uplift began with a change of leadership in local government, but was (and continues to be) supported by local enterprise—by the individuals, businesses and community organizations that have made Milwaukee a great city for living, working and playing.

The Shepherd Express has played an important role in the changing face of Milwaukee. Over the past three decades, we have contributed to political change in the city and promoted the growth of its cultural life—including the remarkable proliferation of performing arts groups, craft breweries and artisan food and beverage makers of all kinds; the opening of new restaurants; the revitalization

of dying neighborhoods; and a greater awareness of the city’s unique history.

Today, when fake news or poorly written pontifications are often substituted for real journalism and analysis, the Shepherd Express has remained a trusted and dependable voice for our 300,000plus readers in print and online. From the cultural legacies left by our city’s beer barons and the socialist administration that gave us America’s greatest system of public parks, through the traditional work ethic of our industrial laborers and our present-day network of entrepreneurs and artisans, Milwaukee has always been a city that demands quality.

The Shepherd Express endeavors to live up to those standards in all that we do.

We dedicate the 2018 edition of our annual City Guide to our readers, the people of greater Milwaukee.

Louis G. Fortis Publisher and Editor-in-Chief David Luhrssen City Guide Editor

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PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: ;2+.*'<2%/.*'=#)/7'>?@AB GENERAL MANAGER: C#D.,'E0%&,#%'=#)/7'>?AFB' EDITOR: G0D.&';+"%**#,'=#)/7'>?@HB ASSISTANT EDITOR:'I2",'!1",#.&#% =#)/7'>?JKB COPY EDITOR: !#4#,0'L.4#-*9.'=#)/7'>?JMB EDITORIAL ASSISTANT & ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER: I2",'I0",'=#)/'>?@JB' EXPRESS EVENTS EDITOR: N.$'O#,2%'=#)/7'>?J@B ASSISTANT A&E EDITOR/MUSIC EDITOR: (D0,'N3/4#-*9.' =#)/7'>?J?B EDITORIAL INTERNS:'P0*:.,#'Q%##RL0%.#'8+/40-S T0%24.,#'C0+5:0,S';3&.0'!40//#%3 CREATIVE SERVICES: ART DIRECTOR: G0D#'U34*/%0'=>?AJB GRAPHIC DESIGNER: L#4.**0';##'I2",*2,'=#)/7'>?>?B GRAPHIC DESIGNER/PHOTOGRAPHER: L0VV.#'W0+V",'=>?@>B ADVERTISING DIRECTORX'Y4.**0'Z#6#%'=#)/7'>?@FB ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES:''Q%.&V#//#'Y%&'=#)/7'>?JJBS' !/#$"0,.#'!1"%2#/#%'=#)/7'>?J[BS' G2,,0'Z0V,#%'=#)/7'>?JFB' BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGERX'T"+19'\.44'=#)/7'>?AAB In Memory of Dusti Ferguson (October 18, 1971 – November 20, 2007) EVENT COORDINATOR:'N01"#4'N#$#//.'=#)/7'>?A>B EVENTS ASSISTANT:'Q#/"0,3'<2%*#/" WEB PUBLISHER: T24#'W0,&#%:0+*# =#)/7'>?@KB WEB EDITOR: N26'\+44+: =#)/7'>?@[B BUSINESS MANAGER:']#VV3'G#6,0:'=#)/7'>?>AB CIRCULATION COORDINATOR:'I2*#5'Q.#,.#9'=#)/7'>?@MB CIRCULATION: CONNIE ANDERSON, THOMAS CAULEY, MARGARET DYER, GARY GORLEWSKI, MIKE HOULEHEN, TOWNSEND HUNT, LARRY JONES, BRENDA LEWIS, FRANK MULVEY, TODD PEARSON, MICHAEL POLLACK, SAMMIE REED, JENNIFER SCHMIDT, DANIEL SURGES, GREG TOMASETTI, RICK VAN WIERINGEN, MICHAEL WALDOCH, MIKE WOOD, DAN ZOLLNER DISTRIBUTION: !"#$"#%&'()$%#**'.*'0D0.4064#'5%##'25' 1"0%V#7'O"#'!"#$"#%&'()$%#**':03'6#'&.*/%.6+/#&' 2,43'63'0+/"2%.^#&'&.*/%.6+/2%*7'_2'$#%*2,':03S' -./"2+/'$%.2%'-%.//#,'$#%:.**.2,'25'!"#$"#%&' ()$%#**S'/09#':2%#'/"0,'2,#'12$3'25'#01"'-##943' .**+#7'L0.4'*+6*1%.$/.2,*'0%#'0D0.4064#7'_2'%#5+,&*' 52%'#0%43'10,1#440/.2,*7 8,#'3#0%'=FA'.**+#*B'D.0'<.%*/'T40**':0.4'R'`JAF7@@ !.)':2,/"*'=A['.**+#*B'D.0'<.%*/'T40**':0.4'R'`K@7@@ A@K'(7'Q+55042'!/7S'!+./#'HJ@S'L.4-0+9##S'Za'F>A@A Phone'HJHbAK[RAAAA'Fax'HJHbAK[R>>JA' Advertising Inquiries: alissa@shepex.com e-mail:'.,52c*"#$#)712: URL: *"#$"#%&#)$%#**712: Shepherd Express makes no representations or warranties of any kind, whether expressed or implied, regarding any advertising. Due diligence is recommended before entering into any agreement with an advertiser. Shepherd Express will not be held liable for any damages of any kind relating to any ad. Please check your ad the first day of publication and notify us of any changes. We are not responsible for errors in advertising after the first day. We reserve the right to edit, reject or reclassify advertisements at our sole discretion, without notice. We do not knowingly accept advertisements that discriminate or intend to discriminate on any illegal basis, or are otherwise illegal. NO REFUNDS for cancellation after deadline, no copy changes except to price or telephone number.

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Cover illustration by Melissa Lee Johnson ! " # " SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

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he story of how Milwaukee became America’s bowling capital is woven into the same fabric as many of our local institutions, the city’s German heritage.

“Bowling was a German cultural activity back in the old country,” said Doug Schmidt, a bowling historian and author of They Came to Bowl: How Milwaukee Became America’s Tenpin Capital. “When the Germans started migrating here after the Civil War—and by the 1880s they were settling in Milwaukee— bowling was an extension of their culture.”

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1981, between the men’s and women’s associations in Milwaukee there were around 200,000 residents of the greater Milwaukee area that were bowling in a sanctioned league, around one quarter of the city’s population.

But when the factories began to leave Milwaukee, bowling also began its decline. “As the factory jobs dried up the marketplace shrunk,” Schmidt said.

Milwaukee’s strong German roots came together with another factor—the industrial revolution—and began a series of events that would catapult Milwaukee’s rise to prominence in the bowling world. “From the beginning of the industrial revolution up until the 1970s, you can list a who’s who of what industries were based in Milwaukee,” Schmidt said. “Most of their employees looked forward to getting out on any given night of the week to bowl together.”

In 2005, the Bowling Proprietors Association of America, which is located in Arlington, Texas, gained control of the American Bowling Congress. They decided that both parts of the business should be combined. Instead of moving their 32 employees up to Greendale, they shut down the Milwaukee-area facility and built a new one in Arlington, which opened in November 2008. The building was then sold to Walmart, and Schmidt said that after the move Milwaukee’s reputation as America’s bowling capital was permanently damaged.

Then in 1905, the catalyst for what put Milwaukee on the map as the nation’s bowling capital happened. Abraham Lincoln Langtry, a salesman for Northwestern Fuel Company and himself the part owner of a bowling alley, along with Mayor David Rose, successfully lobbied for Milwaukee to host that year’s National Bowling Tournament. Schmidt suspects Mayor Rose’s penchant for turning a blind eye to alcohol and prostitution may have had something to do with the decision.

In the ensuing years, the entire sport of bowling has declined in popularity due to cultural shifts and technology. “The past decade has really been a period of adjustment,” Schmidt said. “League bowling peaked in the 1980s, and our culture has changed so much since then. In large part due to social media and people being constantly on the go, people don’t want to take the time out to sit and socialize for two and a half or three hours. It’s kind of a sad statement on where our society has gone.”

“I never quite figured out if it was because of Langtry being one of the leaders or if it was because Milwaukee had a reputation for being a wide open town,” Schmidt said of the decision with a laugh.

Bowling leagues have dwindled considerably, and Schmidt said that the game is “evolving from a competitive sport to more of a social type of sport.” This leaves stakeholders in the bowling community struggling to adjust to the changing times.

Langtry became secretary of the American Bowling Congress in 1907, and in those times, wherever the secretary lived became the national office for the organization. He kept his position for 25 years, and as this happened, the congress kept putting him in bigger offices and deepening Milwaukee’s position in the bowling world.

During the 1960s, the American Bowling Congress collaborated with the Women’s Bowling Congress to build a new combined headquarters in Greendale, which opened in 1971. Around the same time, the sport began growing by leaps and bounds. Schmidt said that by

“Bowling proprietors now are trying to evolve,” Schmidt said.

“They’ve gone from running alleys—which is now a totally outdated term—to running centers, which are multimedia type places with upgraded furniture, video rooms, strobe lights and rock music.”

No matter what happens with the sport of bowling, Schmidt said that there will always be one advantage. “No matter how good or bad you are, what other sport can you play where the ball always comes back to you?”

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obody gets rich running a corner bar, which may be why so many have closed over the last decade.

Yet while the more development-prone parts of the city clear room for ax-throwing bars, mini-golf bars, breweries, distilleries and other novelties, none of those establishments offer anywhere near the comfort or the bang for your buck of a family owned corner tap, where the patrons are chatty, the beer is domestic and the prices are low enough that anybody can afford to buy a round. Like any emblem of Milwaukee’s working-class heritage, it’s easy to overromanticize them, but they really are part of the connective tissue of the city. You’ll get a better sense of the neighborhood and its residents than you will at any craft cocktail lounge.

As a general rule, the best corner bar is the one closest to your home, but if you’re looking to make a short trip, here are five destination taverns that make even first-timers feel right at home.

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Holidays are always a big deal at Gordie’s. Every Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine’s Day, this low-key St. Francis bar plasters its walls with boxes of the kind of drug-store decorations that you likely remember from your childhood. Even during less festive times of the year, though, it’s an extraordinarily inviting place. The square-shaped bar encourages bar-wide conversations, and the drinks are so cheap that regulars don’t think twice when buying the entire bar rounds of small tap beers or shots of blackberry brandy, a house favorite.

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Don’t let the fact you have to get buzzed in put you off: This Riverwest corner tap is much more inviting than it looks from the outside, with upbeat bartenders and gregarious regulars who always welcome newcomers. There’s usually a pair of beagles

that’ll be eager to meet you, too. Once you’re done petting the dogs, head over to the jukebox, which is stacked not only with the expected oldies and classic-rock favorites, but also decade’s worth of funk, soul and R&B jams that the bartenders are all too happy to crank up. It’s not hard to start a party at this place, even in the middle of the afternoon.

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Yes, that’s carpeting on the floor, and no, that’s never ideal for a bar.

But along with the wood paneling and back-supporting bar stools, that carpeting gives this St. Francis bar (that makes the most of its trackside location) an extra comfy, rec-room feel, and softens the acoustics a bit for patrons who hate yelling over bar clatter. Even at its busiest, this is a relaxing place to grab a High Life.

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Nestled on a busy stretch of Burleigh just a few blocks from Sherman Park, Waz’s Pub can get lively on nights and weekends, but it also does steady business throughout the day thanks to a food menu including catfish, pork chop sandwiches and macaroni and cheese, as well as heaping breakfast platters. In warmer months patrons lounge on a cozy, secluded patio in the back.

Like every bar on this list, it does especially brisk business during Packers games.

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The Valley Inn isn’t just the only bar in Piggsville, the smallest and most secluded of all Milwaukee neighborhoods: It’s the only business period. A homey little grill with cushioned bar stools and wood décor, it does brisk business serving burgers and grilled cheeses during the dinner hour, while regulars congregate at the bar to watch Brewers games, including home games broadcast from just across the interstate that walls off this quiet neighborhood.

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ne hallmark of Milwaukee County’s distinctive park systems is that they reflect the native landscape. Preserving waterways and woodlands as public spaces also has been positive for the region’s overall ecology through a network of green spaces that are woven throughout the districts where Milwaukeeans live and work. Here are a few highlights: continued on next page >>

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Located along a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan from North Avenue to Kenwood Boulevard and bordering Lincoln Memorial Drive. Parking is available in lots accessed by Newberry Boulevard and Lake Park Road, and along adjacent streets.

A crown jewel of Milwaukee County Parks, Lake Park’s meandering pathways and scenic vistas showcase Frederick Law Olmsted design principles. Many trees in the 138-acre site were alive when the park began. Lake Park’s ravines embody the concept of “wild gardens”—landscapes designed with a naturalistic aesthetic, including plants native to an area. They afford an escape from urban bustle.

Milwaukee County Parks continues to emphasize the planting and protection of native species in the park. Volunteers from Lake Park Friends remove invasive buckthorn, burdock and garlic mustard; their ongoing efforts are a key reason the park’s natural areas remain ecologically healthy.

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Located between Lake Drive and Oakland Avenue, two blocks south of Locust Avenue.

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Olmsted planned this linear greenway as a graceful link between Lake Park and what was originally called River Park (now Riverside).

Newberry was meant to extend the park experience and enhance property values.

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Located along the Milwaukee River’s east bank and bordered by Oakland and Bartlett avenues and Park and Locust streets; intersected by the Oak Leaf Trail. Parking available in lots at the western end of Park Avenue and along adjacent streets.

Much of Riverside Park has been sliced and diced, making Olmsted’s original design less apparent. The main exception is the woodland west of the Oak Leaf Trail, and it’s likely that Warren Manning’s original planting contributions remain

evident. The Urban Ecology Center (UEC) has been restoring this forest by replacing invasive species with native plants. The woodland also leads to the riverfront, which is also being revitalized.

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Bordered by Layton Boulevard, Pierce Street and the Menomonee Valley.

Parking is available near Layton Boulevard entrance. Additional bicycle and pedestrian access offered via Hank Aaron State Trail or Pierce Street.

Mitchell Park includes the Sunken Garden, one of Milwaukee’s most celebrated landscape designs, completed in 1904 to complement the park’s original 1898 Victorian glasshouse. It featured elegant, colorful, formal plantings surrounding a 360-foot-long by 82-foot-wide “water mirror.” The garden in what was nicknamed Flower Park was removed due to Milwaukee County Parks’ budgetary cutbacks.

Outlines of the garden’s structure remain—stairways, stone walls and mature trees. There has been talk of installing permanent sports fields in this area, which would further remove traces of this masterwork, foreclosing options to create more horticultural ties with “the Domes,” the park’s current glasshouses.

Photographic displays of the 61-acre park’s early days are displayed in the lagoon pavilion, next to public restrooms.

The human-designed lagoon remains the park’s main natural area. Anglers still use the pond and shaded picnic areas on the park’s north side are popular. A hillside amphitheater faces a brick performing stage. Other parts of Mitchell have been carved up for Journey House’s Packers Field, a playground area and baseball diamond.

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Bordered by South Seventh and South 10th streets, Lincoln Avenue and Becher Street. Parking is available in a lot west of Seventh Street and on

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adjacent streets.

Kosciuszko was among Milwaukee’s first seven parks developed after its Board of Park Commissioners was formed in 1889. The 24-acre parcel boasted rolling terrain with oak and maple trees, which were retained after the park was expanded to its current 34 acres. Included are a lagoon for boating and ice-skating, as well as walkways, lawn areas and plantings. Visible while traversing the Lincoln Avenue business corridor, the lagoon attracts flocks of birds and anglers.

This much-used park serves many functions in one of Milwaukee’s densest neighborhoods. Pathways invite strolling and pastoral settings are ideal for picnics. Elementary school students from St. Josaphat Parish School use the playground for recess. People gather on benches near the park’s namesake statue and seasonally at the Pelican Cove Family Water Park.

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Bordered by Lloyd Street, Lisbon Avenue, North 40th Street, Vliet Street and Highway 41. Parking is available in lots off 40th and Lloyd streets and Washington Boulevard.

Washington Park was designed by Olmsted as a destination around 1892 and was developed after having been cleared for farming. About 4,000 trees were planted in the park within the first few years.

Although Washington Park’s outer areas have been given over to other uses—including a freeway dating to 1962—the 135-acre park’s center retains a seven-acre lagoon, wooded hills and winding pathways—all Olmsted signatures. Summer concerts are hosted at the Art Deco bandshell and picnics areas are popular.

To view maps of all of Milwaukee County’s parks, visit county.milwaukee.gov.

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id you have pickled herring and cannibal sandwiches on your family’s holiday table as a kid? Did you get hot ham and rolls every Sunday after church, or go out for custard to celebrate a good report card? If you’re a native Milwaukeean, chances are you either grew up with at least some of those traditions, or know plenty of friends and relatives who did.

The historical and cultural food-related traditions of a region are called foodways, and southeastern Wisconsin has a plethora of unique examples. Some, like Friday fish fry and supper clubs, have a regional reach beyond Milwaukee, while others like hot ham and rolls and Danish kringle are confined to a much smaller geographic area. Chances are, unless you lived in another state for a time, you don’t even realize that Milwaukee’s foodways are so localized.

Sometimes it’s difficult to pin down exactly where or how a food tradition started. Sunday morning hot ham and rolls likely stemmed out of the Catholic practice of not eating before church, making for throngs of hungry folks wanting something quick in the late morning. A smart bakery owner on the South Side likely saw the potential in this untapped market, and began offering a simple cut of meat along with free rolls. People were hungry, they liked getting something free and a tradition was born that has never really taken hold anywhere else.

Other foodways can be traced back to very specific starting points, like frozen custard. Gilles was the first custard stand to open in Milwaukee back in 1938, likely having been influenced by custard’s inclusion in the Chicago World’s Fair. From there came Leon’s in 1942 and Kopp’s in 1950. While custard stands exist in other parts of the country thanks to Coney Island, Ted Drewes and Culver’s, nowhere else has a real culture of custard that supports as many stands as we do.

Thanks in part to Wisconsin’s drinking culture, we have a number of beverage traditions as well. Beer chasers with bloody marys are uniquely Wisconsin, and the restaurant format of burgers and bloodies is Milwaukeebased. The brandy old fashioned with muddled fruit would make bartenders gasp in other states. And while a Brooklyn-based bartender claims to have coined the term “pickleback” in 2006, we’ve all been chasing shots with pickle brine for as long as we can remember.

Milwaukeeans are lovers of tradition and familiarity, which is probably why we have such strong, unique foodways. We like to eat what our grandparents ate, at least to some extent, which is one reason why the Friday fish fry is still so popular, and bratwursts outsell hotdogs at Miller Park. Food traditions are one of the most intimate, relatable ways of connecting with our history, and deserve to be celebrated every chance we get.

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uch of what we think of today as Milwaukee’s lakefront wasn’t there when the first Europeans began to settle in this area in the early 1800s. As the city developed, land was platted for development nearly all the way to the ends of the tall bluffs that then lined the lakefront, leaving precious little space for public lands along the water. The lakefront we know today was the result of massive landfill projects over the past 100-plus years that were engineered to maximize both its industrial and recreation potential.

These landfill areas were created by literally dumping earth and stone into the lake until it built up into new, useable land. The earliest fill projects were mostly undertaken using dirt and mud dredged up from the lake or river bottoms and other loads of unneeded debris, including garbage and coal stove ash. These areas include pretty much all lands between the South Shore Marina and North Point. South of the straight cut, where the rivers enter the lake, are the huge docking terminals that were built on the outer edge of Jones Island in the early 1930s. This project was undertaken to maximize the shipping potential of the port and took advantage of the new south portion of the breakwater wall, which could now protect large ships as they docked or sat moored at the island.

The lands just to the north of the straight cut have known the most varied uses of any part of the lakefront. One of the first major fill projects was untaken in the 1910s; the initial idea was to use this as expanded municipal docking space. However, by the time the project was finished, railroad shipping had taken away so much business from Great Lakes package freighters that the extra space was not needed. The area was eventually used as an airfield and later a flight school for seaplanes. During the Cold War, it was home to a Nike anti-aircraft missile battery. Since 1970, it has been known as Henry Maier Festival Park, home to Summerfest and many of the city’s major ethnic festivals.

Further up along the shore, the largest part of the “reclaimed” lakefront is found in Veterans Park. Work on the 100-acre fill project, which includes all the land east of Lincoln Memorial Drive, began in 1957 with the installation of a sheet piling bulkhead that ran all the way to the lake bed. It took more than five years to complete this “outline” of the park, after which 2.5 million cubic yards of fill—most of it taken from the corridors built for Interstates 43 and 94—were used to create the park.

Over the years, other aspects of the lakefront have been adapted to more modern uses: The old Chicago & Northwestern rail line was transformed into the Oak Leaf Trail, the former cruise ship dock gave rise to Discovery World, and earth from the deep tunnel project was used to build Lakeshore State Park. The lakefront is now, perhaps more so than it ever was, Milwaukee’s front door to the world. It is a priceless natural resource that is not quite as natural as it seems.

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n a 1968 city report on the dreary state of the Downtown portion of Milwaukee, Mayor Henry Maier referred to the water as “an almost dead artery of commerce.” The purpose of the report was to find a way to salvage the river, to remake it into a purposeful part of a Downtown that had fallen into disrepair in the post-war era.

Once a primary industrial driver for the city, the river, by the 1960s, was not unlike Maier’s grim assessment. While the Menomonee Valley was still a hub of shipping and lake freighters continued to frequent the Port of Milwaukee docks on Jones Island, industry along the river had been in decline since the 1920s, when increased automobile traffic discouraged the numerous bridge openings and delays that came with upriver shipping.

But even some 40 years later, the ugly remnants of this industrial era continued to define most of the Downtown part of the river. Between the North Avenue dam and the office buildings and high-rises of Wisconsin Avenue, the river was pocked with decaying buildings and empty lots. Industrial sites, both those abandoned and those still in use, seeped pollution into the waterway, producing a pungent odor that was instantly recognizable. It seemed that the massive die-offs of alewives, which made for an even worse stink, was the only thing that could cover it. In addition to the alewives, it was also reported that the riverbanks had become infested with rats, living well off the trash that was regularly strewn about by careless citizens.

Aside from the opening of the Marine Plaza Building (today the Chase Tower) in 1961, improvements to the riverfront mostly

consisted of surface parking lots, considered then to be a useful upgrade to land that had little other value. The 1968 report frowned upon surface lots as being unsightly, but pointed to a proposal for a more modern-looking parking structure (which was eventually built on the west side of the river between Michigan and Clybourn) as a much-welcomed upgrade to the overall aesthetic of the waterway.

As for the future of the river, the city had a number of big ideas, but no concrete plans to implement them. One proposal had the river north of Wells Street expand to fill a series of manmade lagoons that would spread all the way west to Sixth Street and as far north as the old Park East Freeway. Numerous historic buildings, including the Pabst Theater, would have been bulldozed in this plan, which would have showcased more modern Downtown buildings and added an expansive twinlevel riverwalk. Another called for the river to be limited to small recreational craft and gondolas to simulate the experience of touring Venice. Yet another called for a narrowing of the river to one-third of its width and the creation of promenades both alongside and over the river. One proposal even called for the river to be filled in between North Avenue and the Menomonee River junction, and used as Downtown parkway.

The city’s report showed that Milwaukee was deeply concerned with what would become of the river, and also deeply conflicted about how to bring it into the modern era. It would be a few more decades before a cleaner river and the lure of the Riverwalk began to drive development along the waterway, but the thinking of the ’60s and from that of generations before—that the river was a natural resource worth showcasing—remained intact.

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