Spring Drink Guide 2018

Drink Guide Old Fashioneds and Wineries of Wisconsin

Drink

OLD FASHIONEDS ARE BACK!

::BY ROB HULLUM

In our everlasting quest to find the perfect hangover cure, countless remedies have been attempted. Full-time technologist and part-time cocktail historian Martin Doudoroff explains on oldfashioned101.com that the original “cocktail” was a “hairof-the-dog morning drink that tamed spirits with water, sugar and bitters.” When the term “cocktail” was co-opted to be synonymous with any and every mixed drink, the term “old fashioned” was bestowed upon this 17th century hangover cure.

Over the years, many iterations of this drink have come and gone. Wisconsin’s old fashioned of choice—made with brandy instead of whiskey—came about through Korbel Brandy’s involvement in the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. “Story has it that the Germans in Milwaukee took to Korbel in a big way,” John Dye, owner of Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge, told Thrillist in 2015.

“As the rest of the country was starting to turn to whiskey, Wisconsin turned to brandy.” Indeed, the brandy old fashioned has seen a resurgence over the last few years.

The Shepherd Express hosts Old Fashioned Fest on Friday, March 9, at the Garage at the Harley-Davidson Museum (400 W. Canal St.), where the following list of 18 Wisconsin bars and restaurants will compete for the crown of Best Great Northern Distilling Whiskey Old Fashioned and West Wollersheim Distillery Brandy Old Fashioned.

The event is currently sold out, but another Old Fashionedthemed event will be scheduled sometime soon. You can get on the list to be contacted as soon as tickets go on sale for our next old fashioned event by visiting shepherdexpress.com/oldfashionedevent.

Amilinda (Brandy)

with a handcrafted blend poured through a bubbler and another muddled with orange, cherry, cube sugar and bitters—there is something for everyone.

While Spain and Portugal may be a world away from the traditional Northern Wisconsin supper clubs that have informed our views on the brandy old fashioned over the years, Amilinda brings a worldly take on this Wisconsinborn treasure. The Wisconsin Avenue favorite will bring the same attention to detail that their food is known for to the art of making old fashioneds.

Famous Dave’s (Whiskey)

315 E. Wisconsin Ave. 414-369-3683 amilinda.com

Boone & Crockett (Whiskey) 2151 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. 414-763-4935 boonemilwaukee.com

Boone & Crockett has become synonymous with the old fashioned in certain Milwaukee circles. While the Bay View (soon to be Walker’s Point) craft cocktail bar has a rotating menu of specialty drinks, Boone has become a destination for both brandy and whiskey old fashioneds. With their impending move to the former Hot Water Wherehouse space (818 S. Water St.), Boone will have even more space to serve their special cocktails.

Camp Bar (Whiskey) multiple locations 414-930-9282 campbarmke.com

While it’s impossible to perfectly recreate the atmosphere of a classic northern Wisconsin bar, Camp has come about as close as you can get. The wooden walls are lined with hunting and fishing signs, taxidermy animals are on display throughout, and perhaps most importantly, several excellently crafted old fashioneds highlight their drink menu. If a getaway weekend up north is not an option for you, Camp is the next best thing.

Crave (Whiskey)

128 E. Main St., Campbellsport 920-533-3663 crave128.com

Located in Campbellsport, Wis., Crave is a modern gastropub that specializes in craft beer, craft cocktails and food made with a strong emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. While Crave emphasizes their beer selection on their menu, they also make a great old fashioned.

Drink Wisconsinbly Pub (Brandy) 135 E. National Ave. 414-930-0929 drinkwi.pub

A bar that is dedicated to Wisconsin’s drinking culture needs to make a good old fashioned. It’s as simple as that. Luckily, Drink Wisconsinbly does not disappoint. Their love for the Badger State shines through their signature drink. With two options—one made 2 | MARCH 8, 2018

multiple locations 414-727-1940 famousdaves.com

What started as a small barbecue restaurant in Hayward, Wis., has grown to a nationwide chain of more than 150 restaurants in the 23 years since Dave Anderson founded Famous Dave’s. While the restaurant has greatly expanded, the Wisconsin roots are undeniable. This is evident in their old fashioned.

While the pit master is the star of the show at Famous Dave’s, don’t count out the prowess of their bartenders.

Five O’Clock Steakhouse (Brandy) 2416 W. State St. 414-342-3553 fiveoclocksteakhouse.com

Five O’Clock Steakhouse, Milwaukee’s quintessential supper club, is the kind of place where it is a crime to order anything other than an old fashioned. The old fashioned serves as a special kind of appetizer at Five O’Clock because of the way in which you are served: ordering your complete dinner order while sipping your drink at the bar. While it may serve as the appetizer, it is one you won’t soon forget.

Hudson Business Lounge (Brandy)

310 E. Buffalo St. 414-220-9460 thehudson.org

In AMC’s 1960s period drama “Mad Men,” a group of advertising executives can frequently be seen taking long, boozy lunches under the guise of business meetings. The star of the show, Don Draper, is known for his affinity for the old fashioned. While the days of drinking to excess during the workday are largely over, Hudson Business Lounge still combines a space for business and a delicious old fashioned (though the drinking is more likely to be done after 5 p.m. these days).

Jodi’s Hideout

332 Buchanan St., Mayville

Jodi’s Hideout is a newcomer to the scene, having just recently opened in the former Wally’s Hideout space in Mayville, Wis. This friendly neighborhood bar serves homemade pizza and simple appetizers, along with handcrafted cocktails. Owner Jodi Augustine said her signature old fashioned is made with homemade honey simple and locally sourced honey; it is muddled with dark, sweet cherries and blueberries that have been marinated in Maker’s Mark.

Old Fashioneds continued on page 4 >>

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Drink >> Old Fashioneds continued from page 2

Jonny Hammers (Brandy) 6300 W. Lincoln Ave. 414-430-0282 jonnyhammers.com

Pegged as a “Grateful Dead and Classic Rock” bar, Jonny Hammers is not the supper club atmosphere that many associate with a classic Wisconsin brandy old fashioned. But to judge this book by its cover would be a mistake. An old fashioned pairs just as well with bar food staples such as pizza and wings as it does with a medium-rare steak.

Kegel’s Inn (Whiskey)

5901 W. National Ave., West Allis 414-257-9999 kegelsinn.com

Kegel’s Inn is one of Milwaukee’s true fish fry institutions. The tradition dates back to the 1930s, when they would give you a free fish fry with the purchase of a beer. While beer is always a great option, what drink could possibly pair better with Wisconsin’s most beloved food than Wisconsin’s most beloved cocktail, the old fashioned? Luckily, Kegel’s Inn is adept at both.

Mason Street Grill (Brandy) 425 E. Mason St. 414-298-3131 masonstreetgrill.com

As one of the standard-bearers of Milwaukee fine dining, Mason Street Grill does a lot of things right. The Pfister-connected steak and seafood restaurant boasts a stacked list of six martinis and 11 other specialty cocktails. Among them is the Barrel-Aged Old Fashioned: an uncomplicated concoction of bourbon, sugar and bitters. Some of life’s best pleasures are the most simple, and sometimes less is more.

Milwaukee Sail Loft (Whiskey) 649 E. Erie St. 414-223-0100 milwaukeesailloft.com

When you are looking out at one of the finest views any Milwaukee establishment has to offer, it’s only appropriate that you sip on one of the finest drinks Milwaukee has to offer. Milwaukee Sail Loft’s old fashioned pairs perfectly with their excellent seafood menu featuring panko-crusted sea bass and grilled Scottish salmon.

Motor Bar & Restaurant 401 W. Canal St. 414-287-2778 motorrestaurant.com

Motor Bar & Restaurant will enjoy a bit of home court advantage at this year’s Old Fashioned Festival. As the resident restaurant of the Harley-Davidson Museum, Motor’s atmosphere reflects a sense of Wisconsin history

Whiskey vs. Brandy Showdown

that is kin to the old fashioned. Much like the motorcycles on display in the museum, Motor keeps it classic with a simple recipe featuring blood orange bitters.

fashioned simply read “Trish’s Secret Recipe.”

You can trust Trish to make it right.

Twisted Willow (Whiskey)

Riverwest Filling Station (Brandy)

308 N. Franklin St., Port Washington 262-268-7600 twistedwillowrestaurant.com

Located on the corner of Keefe Avenue and Pierce Street, Riverwest Filling Station is a modern corner bar with an extensive beer list and an upscale-yet-approachable food menu. Take-home growlers have become the bar’s claim to fame over the years, but an excellent brandy old fashioned is a sleeper pick when you’re looking for a break from your favorite IPA.

The Wicked Hop (Brandy)

701 E. Keefe Ave. 414-906-9000 the-filling-station.com

Stoneridge Inn (Brandy)

11811 W. Janesville Road, Hales Corners 414-425-7777 stoneridgeinnhalescorners.com

Stoneridge Inn is the definition of a traditional Wisconsin supper club. The restaurant was featured in the 2013 book Wisconsin Supper Clubs: An Old-Fashioned Experience by Ron Faiola and serves the mainstays like Black Angus steaks and hand-cut prime rib. The ingredients listed on their website for their old

Twisted Willow offers a true farm-totable experience, with owner and chef Dan Wilken sourcing most of their produce from their own Grafton, Wis., farm. This dedication to quality also translates to their drink menu, where their mantra of “heirloom recipes and handcrafted cocktails with a modern Wisconsin twist” means an old fashioned that feels like a family member made it just for you.

345 N. Broadway 414-223-0345 thewickedhop.com

This Third Ward bar and restaurant proudly claims to serve Milwaukee’s best Bloody Mary, and as their 2017 Shepherd Express Best of Milwaukee title in that category would suggest, it seems our readers would agree. But if you go beyond the foundational brunch cocktail and try the Hop’s brandy old fashioned, you will find that their bartenders’ expertise extends well beyond tomato juice and vodka.

Great Northern Distilling Vanguard Whiskey Aged for about 8 months in 10 gallon barrels, the resulting spirit has a smooth character typically found in much older whiskeys and flavor profile that is somewhere between true Kentucky bourbon and a Canadian Whiskey.

Prominent caramel and vanilla notes mellow to a long finish of rye spice and leather.

Wollersheim Distillery Press House Brandy All-American brandy made from American native grape wine, distilled on-site and aged two years in American oak barrels. Sweet and soft.

Perfect for cocktails.

4 | MARCH 8, 2018

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Drink

DRINKING WINE the WISCONSIN WAY

ROCK COUNTY: Northleaf Winery

232 S. Janesville St., Milton 608-580-0575 northleafwinery.com

Let’s raise a glass to the southeast corner’s 18 wineries

Northleaf’s array of wines includes sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, green apple riesling, pinot noir and red blends. Northleaf Winery earned Travel Green Wisconsin certification in 2013 for practices such as repurposing building materials while restoring their 1850s building, using zero carbon footprint corks in their bottles and water conservation.

::BY SHEILA JULSON Sonoma or Napa Valley usually comes to mind when you think of wine regions, but good vino isn’t just about California anymore. According to the Wisconsin Winery Association, Wisconsin’s southeast Glacial Hills region is home to 18 wineries, each with their own unique wines crafted from Wisconsin-grown fruits, as well as varietals obtained from vineyards nationwide. Tasting room and retail hours vary and some don’t open until May, so call or check the website for details before heading out on your own Badger State winery tour.

DODGE COUNTY: Edwin Brix Vineyard N4595 Welsh Road, Juneau 920-219-4249 edwinbrix.com

As Dodge County’s first licensed winery, Edwin Brix Vineyard grows a variety of red and white cold-hardy grapes such as Marquette, a distant cousin of pinot noir, to produce highquality wines. Wine is available for purchase at the vineyard, online or at their distribution center in Beaver Dam. Edwin Brix is working on completing their tasting room to have open by this summer.

FOND DU LAC COUNTY: Armstrong Apples Orchard & Winery

W853 County Road B, Campbellsport 920-477-3007 armstrongapples.com

Armstrong produces wines and hard ciders from apples grown in their orchard. In addition, they also have raspberry, blueberry, peach and strawberry wines. Armstrong’s romantic blends of First Blush, Flirt and Passion are made with Wisconsin-grown grapes.

JEFFERSON COUNTY: Lewis Station Winery 217 N. Main St., Lake Mills 920-648-5481 lewisstationwinery.com

This micro-winery and bistro, housed in a repurposed antique gas station, crafts a range of 6 | MARCH 8, 2018

sweet, dry and dessert wines, many of which are playfully named after attractions and lore of the Lake Mills region, such as Lost Pyramid Red. (The lost pyramids of Lake Mills are supposedly at the bottom of Rock Lake—Lewis Station owners suggest enjoying a bottle of their Lost Pyramid Red while spending time on the lake in search of the lost pyramids.)

KENOSHA COUNTY: AEppelTreow Winery 1072 288th Ave., Burlington 262-878-5345 aeppeltreow.com

Near the Richard Bong State Recreation Area lies AEppelTreow (Anglo-Saxon for Apple True/Tree) Winery & Distillery, makers of hard cider, wine and spirits. Located on the grounds of Brightonwoods Orchard, AEppelTreow owners Charles and Milissa McGonegal partner with Brightonwoods to use their antique and heirloom apples in artisan wines and ciders.

AEppelTreow’s subtle, tart hard ciders harken back to the pre-Prohibition era.

OZAUKEE COUNTY: Cedar Creek Winery

N70 W6340 Bridge Road, Cedarburg 262-377-8020 cedarcreekwinery.com

Anyone who has been to Cedarburg for a day of shopping or a festival probably needs no introduction to Cedar Creek Winery. Located in the historic Cedar Creek Settlement in downtown Cedarburg, the winery produces favorites such as cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot grigio, riesling, syrah, rosé and more.

Timber Hill Winery

1223 E. Storrs Lake Road, Milton 608-247-4615 timberhillwinery.com

This boutique winery makes sweet, dry and even spicy vinos from cold-climate varietals grown in Wisconsin. Reds include Foch, Marquette, Frontenac; white blends include Seyval blanc, Muscat and Edelweiss.

Chiselled Grape Winery

W64N713 Washington Ave., Cedarburg 262-377-8777 chiselledgrapewinery.com

Walworth County:

Apple Barn Orchard and Winery W6384 Sugar Creek Road, Elkhorn 262-728-3266 applebarnorchardandwinery.com

Fascinated by the complex fusions of different wines, the team at Chiselled Grape Winery has taken wine a step further by marrying unique flavors, such as a mysterious and enchanting cold-weather grape from New York with the romance of a French varietal. Chiselled Grape offers dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet and sweet blends.

The winery portion of Apple Barn was established in 2004 and specializes in smallbatch fruit wines made from fresh, nongrape fruits and berries. Favorites include Honey Crisp Apple Harvest, Hardy Pear, Strawberry Jewel, Raspberry Heritage, Summer Peach, Big Buck Blueberry and Country Rhubarb.

Vines to Cellar

Staller Estate Vineyard & Winery

114 E. Main St., Port Washington 262-536-4544 vinestocellar.com

Many of Vines to Cellar’s award-winning wines are produced and bottled in Port Washington. Their sangiovesse, pinot grigio and Barolo juices come directly from Italy. Their other popular varietals include Australian cabernet and Shiraz. Their U-Vin program allows you to be the vintner of your very own batch of vino.

SHEBOYGAN COUNTY: Blind Horse Restaurant & Winery 6018 Superior Ave., Kohler 920-467-8599 theblindhorse.com

The Blind Horse Restaurant & Winery strives to provide a Napa Valley-style experience with wine and quality food pairings. Winemaker Thomas Nye embraces a minimalist style in his winemaking so the natural qualities of the fruit shine in the finished wine. Nye works with viticulturists in northern California and Washington State.

W8896 County Highway A, Delavan 608-883-2100 stallerestate.com

Staller Estate Vineyard & Winery, located near picturesque Lake Geneva, started with a vision to build a family farm winery where they could combine their love for family, a passion for farming and an appreciation of the wine aesthetic. All Staller Estate wines are produced and bottled on site, using cold-hearty grape varietals. Choices include Richmond Rouge, featuring concord grapes, and Reserve La Crescent, a dry oak-aged white from hand-selected grapes with prominent notes of apricot.

Studio Winery

401 Sheridan Springs Road, Lake Geneva 262-348-9100 studiowinery.com

Studio Winery combines wine, art and music into an urban winery, with all wines made on site. They use grapes from their small vineyard, as well as from growers in Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan and Washington State. Fun musically influenced blends SPRING DRINK

Drink include Zappa Sweet White Dessert and Axl Rosé, as well as cabernet, Marquette, viognier, mode blanc and several others.

WASHINGTON COUNTY: Apple Works Winery/ Behnke Estates

W179 N12536 Fond du Lac Ave., Germantown 262-677-1000 appleworkswinery.com

Located on land that was previously an apple orchard, owner Kevin Behnke wanted to honor the property’s rich history. He and his family set out to produce quality hard apple ciders and wines from ingredients in Wisconsin and worldwide. Popular varietals include cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, gewürztraminer, riesling and sauvignon blanc.

Two Brothers Wines

1923 Highway 175, Richfield 262-623-6622 twobrotherswines.com

Twin brothers Joe and Henry Gutmann are artists and winemakers, respectively, who

make wines from Wisconsin ingredients such as apples, blackberries, cranberries, rhubarb and strawberries. Other wines include whites like Catawba and Seyval blanc, and reds like Frontenac, Marquette and syrah. Customers visiting Two Brothers Wines can enjoy the fine art gallery as well as the wine gallery.

WAUKESHA COUNTY: Pieper Porch Winery & Vineyard S67 W28435 River Road, Waukesha 262-349-9092 pieperporchwines.com

Pieper Porch is a family owned winery located on 11 acres of wooded land near the Vernon Marsh. From 2012 through 2016, several of their wines such as lemon, black currant, cranberry and raspberry have won medals in the Wisconsin State Fair Professional Wine Competition. Seasonal varieties include Strawberry, Rhubarb and Winter Apple.

began in Texas in 2003, and in 2012 Larry and Barb VanHoveln opened the first Water 2 Wine location east of the Mississippi. With access to approximately 100 different grapes from up to 14 different countries, Water 2 Wine can make a multitude of common and unusual wines, and all fermentation is done on site. Water 2 Wine also has a make-your-own-wine program, classes and events.

For more information about Wisconsin wineries, visit wiswine.com.

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