Metamorphosis │ The Research

META MORPH OSIS

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THE RESEARCH Figure 2 Figure 3

Trend Forecasting is the art and science of predicting the future direction of something (Spacey, 2015). The fashion industry adopted trend forecasting fairly early due to the nature of fashion consumers changing their purchasing habits (Spacey, 2015). Trends in fashion are predicted by looking at the world around us and how we develop each day as well as the goings-on in the fashion world.

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The Luxury Market The luxury market is defined by many factors such as the garments being made in higher grade factories with better fabrics and hardware, the garments being made in smaller quantities which makes the products feel more exclusive and they often start by showing products on the runway in a ready-to-wear collection. The target market of luxury brands are people who are aged 30 and above that earn £100,000 plus (Bevis, 2019). China is also the biggest luxury fashion buyer which made designers create smaller sizes due to Asian people having a smaller frame.

Brands in the luxury market are part of three main designer groups: LVMH, Kering and Richemont.

Brands owned by LMVH include Celine, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, Kenzo, Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs (Chua, 2019).

Brands owned by Kering include Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Saint Laurent (Couture and Leather Goods, no date).

Brands owned by Richemont include Alaïa, Cartier and Chloé (Our Businesses, no date). >

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The luxury market attracts outer-directed customers which are people concerned with products that say something about them, status prosperity and getting ahead.

It is argued that although brands embraced inclusivity due to the rise of millennials and a shift in socio-political currents, exclusivity is still important. This exclusivity is projected on to luxury brands by consumers as they give traits to certain brands (Solca, 2019). Such as Chanel which is seen as an elegant brand therefore when the consumer purchases a Chanel product, they also buy into the elegant trait (Solca, 2019). The consumer’s subconscious mind projects positive or negative traits onto the products and those with positive traits we want. Owning the items with positive traits ultimately makes the consumer feel more desirable than those that do not which the Business of Fashion article states “is fundamentally about exclusivity, with ownership marking the border between those who have and those who don’t, and providing a key input to defining where our identities sit within the social hierarchy” (Solca, 2019). Social media has become key to the idea of fashion being exclusive as “exhibition and appearance have become a central pillar of the global zeitgeist” (Solca, 2019).

Owning a luxury product is about standing out from one group of people while joining another group of people to define one’s identity. When luxury brands become more inclusive and adopted by a wide consumer group, the products cease to be special in the eyes of the consumer, who buy luxury to feel special. The change in generation and social media may be changing the cultural emphasis from individuality to community and millennials may like the concept of this inclusivity but they also ultimately still want luxury goods and the exclusivity that comes with them (Solca, 2019).

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Theories The trickle down effect first emerged in 1899 and was first described by Thorstein Veblen as a movement that depends on a hierarchical society to function (DeLong, no date).

Veblen was an American economist and social scientist who was famed for his book The Theory of the Leisure Class (1899) in which he coined the phrases conspicuous consumption and pecuniary emulation (Pierce, no date). In this theory, the top strata of society adopt a style which then eventually becomes accepted by those lower in the strata (DeLong, no date). This is clearly seen in the fashion world as each market level will influence the levels below them.

The Visionary market will create a style that then filters down to the Luxury market which then filters down to the high street.

The bubble up effect is where a style is created on the streets and worn by lower income groups then it’s adopted by higher income groups, therefore being the opposite of the trickle down effect (DeLong, no date). An example of this is the leather jacket which teens began to wear in the 1950s due to the film The Wild One (1953) which featured Marlon Brando in a motorcycle gang wearing a leather jacket (Streetstyle: The Bubble Up Theory, 2012). The leather jacket was then adopted by major fashion brands such as Thierry Mugler and Gianni Versace (Streetstyle: The Bubble Up Theory, 2012).

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GENDER & POLITICS

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The legalisation of same-sex marriage and decriminalisation of abortion in Northern Ireland continues to show a shift in the world to becoming more inclusive and accepting. The change in law happened due to the collapsed devolved government not being reformed and deciding before the 21st October deadline (Page, 2019). Before the legislation was passed women in Northern Ireland could only have an abortion if her life was at risk or there was a danger of permanent or serious damage to her physical or mental health (Page, 2019). Same-sex marriage became legal in England, Scotland and Wales in 2014 however it was not legalised in Northern Ireland (Page, 2019). The last vote about same-sex marriage held by the devolved government was in favour of legalising same-sex marriage however the DUP blocked this change by using the Petition of Concern (Page, 2019).

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Gen Z is a strong force in leading the world to change despite facing all-time high mental health risks. They are fighting for gun reform, climate justice, equality for everyone and more. SHE Media followed a group of 25 members of generation z for five years to learn about how they grow and evolve in today’s culture by having conversations with them (Edelman, 2019). In this article, the teens spoke about gender, the binary, the arbitrary roles and why we should be free of all of them (Edelman, 2019). In 2018 a study from the journal Pediatrics stated that nearly 3% of kids they studied identified as non-binary, gender-nonconforming or transgender which is an increase from the 0.7% of teens identifying as transgender recorded in a UCLA study in 2017 (Edelman, 2019). Out of the 25 kids that SHE Media follow, around 10% of them have un-articulated or non-binary gender identities, therefore showing that this generation is more gender-nonconforming and gender-fluid than previous generations (Edelman, 2019). One of the teens they spoke to stated that “gender identity is not what you’re born with; it’s who you are. It doesn’t matter what they think, it just matters what I think, and how I imagine myself,” (Edelman, 2019). This supports scientific research which communicates that gender is a social construct. Another teen, Skye, who changed from the gender and pronouns they were assigned at birth states “I’m gender-neutral and I use they/them pronouns,” while also stating “as of this summer I feel a lot more confident. I just felt really weird about myself [before]…I have some pretty specific memories of questioning my gender when I was younger… I’d suppress that. I’m not a boy. I’m also not a girl” (Edelman, 2019). The article also talks about how the biggest struggle for someone coming out as gender-nonconforming is their parents and this is due to the generational gap (Edelman, 2019). Skye explained that their “friends especially immediately started using the right pronouns and correcting themselves when they used the wrong ones as well as using my [new] name as soon as I told them that’s the name I was comfortable with,” however adults in their life were less accommodating (Edelman, 2019). >

With the up-rise of people identifying as gender non-conforming, airline Air Canada have started to use gender-neutral terms on flights rather than greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’ (Dorking, Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’, 2019). They will now either say ‘everyone’ or ‘tout le monde’ in their announcements to be more inclusive (Dorking, Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’, 2019). The Canadian government also began to allow its citizens to select non-binary as their gender identity on their passports rather than male or female (Dorking, Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’, 2019). The UK is also moving towards making changes for gender inclusivity. Altrincham Grammar School for Girls in Manchester has banned its teachers from referring to its pupils as girls as to not offend any non-binary pupils and instead are beginning to use gender-neutral language when talking about and addressing pupils (Dorking, Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’, 2019). The British restaurant chain Wagamama announced that it would be introducing gender-neutral toilets to 40% of its restaurants which coincided with Transgender Pride, which took place on 14th September (Dorking, Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’, 2019). Wagamama aims to have gender-neutral toilets in all of its restaurants (Dorking, Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers ‘ladies and gentlemen’, 2019).

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GENDER

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NEUTRAL

The Welsh Government announced they would be making uniforms in Wales gender-neutral as parents believed that school uniform policies were outdated and too strict (Dorking, School uniforms in Wales will be gender neutral from September, 2019). In the future when the school publishes a list of the uniform they will no longer gender the items of clothing for example trousers will no longer be described as a “boy’s item” and a skirt will no longer be described as a “girl’s item” (Dorking, School uniforms in Wales will be gender neutral from September, 2019). This was commended by the LGBT+ charity Stonewall as they stated they “strongly support the introduction of gender-neutral school uniform policies” and Andrew White, director of Stonewall Cymru stated “We hope it will form part of a school-wide commitment to including all students and challenging gender stereotypes, which can be so damaging to how young people see themselves and fit in at school” (Dorking, School uniforms in Wales will be gender neutral from September, 2019). >

Figure 16 The Barbie manufacturer Mattel is releasing a doll that they have stated is ‘for everyone’ and “a doll line designed to keep labels out and invite everyone in” (Dockterman, 2019). The doll is customisable as you can change whether it has long or short hair and the prepubescent body of the doll makes it easy for the toy to be a boy, girl, gender fluid or non-binary. This is the next big step that I believe must be taken in the toy world as companies have already strayed from the typical boy and girl aisles and instead made their aisles gender-neutral to encourage children to pick what they want. Although the idea of gender-neutral aisles was steered more towards girls, who would now be exposed to science and maths toys usually targeted at boys (Dockterman, 2019). The next step is for boys to be encouraged as much as girls to choose the toys they want, toys that were previously not marketed for their gender. I can see this happening in the near future as more millennials grow their families and gen z begin to start theirs.

Many fashion magazines such as GQ, Esquire, Glamour and Cosmopolitan are beginning to change the way in which they market their publication. This is due to the idea that gender doesn’t matter as much as it used to. This isn’t only due to the rise of people identifying as transgender, gender-neutral or non-binary as straight and/or cis-gendered people also feel less defined by gender norms (Fernandez, 2019). However, the magazines are working to change the way they are marketed, they are currently still very focused on advertisements whose demographic is defined by gender. Salty is a publication founded by Claire Fitzsimmons, who is bisexual and non-binary (Fernandez, 2019). The newsletter is written and edited by “women, trans and non-binary” contributors who focus their articles on sex, relationships and lifestyle (Fernandez, 2019). Fitzsimmons states “There is no ‘women’s’ media space that speaks to us in a way that doesn’t pander to us and also understands that not all of us are cisgender, not all of the readers are white, slim women. I’m not refined. I’m not alluring, I’m not glamorous” (Fernandez, 2019). She also states “the future of media is niche content” as readers want to shift from the click-bait articles and now want to read thought provoking content (Fernandez, 2019). >

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Extinction Rebellion is an “international movement that uses non-violent civil disobedience in an attempt to halt mass extinction and minimise the risk of social collapse” (About Us, no date). The movement wants governments to take action against climate change. Extinction Rebellion was formed by Roger Hallam, Gail Bradbrook, Simon Bramwell and other activists from the campaign group ‘Rising Up!’ in October 2018 (Extinction Rebellion campaigners arrested in London, 2018).

The movement has three main demands: the government must declare a climate "emergency”, the UK must legally commit to reducing carbon emissions to net zero by 2025 and a citizens' assembly must be formed to "oversee the changes" (What is Extinction Rebellion and what does it want?, 2019). Extinction Rebellion held an 11-day demonstration in London which led to more than 1,100 arrests (What is Extinction Rebellion and what does it want?, 2019). Public figures that support the movement include actress Emma Thompson, bands Radiohead and Massive attack as well as politicians Diane Abbott and Caroline Lucas (What is Extinction Rebellion and what does it want?, 2019).

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POP CULTURE

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Hollywood has begun to see a new kind of heartthrob dubbed ‘artthrob’ by writer Anne T. Donahue, to describe the male stars young females are interested in these days (Greenwood, 2019). The term refers to the star’s intelligence and “less masculine demeanours” as the qualities that attract their mostly female fan base which is often reserved for male pop stars and good looking actors in blockbusters (Greenwood, 2019). A star that is the living embodiment of this phrase is Timothée Chalamet, a 24-year-old American actor known for films such as Call Me by Your Name (2017), Ladybird (2017), Beautiful Boy (2018) and The King (2019). He takes roles that are complex that in the past were written for much older actors, the roles often show emotional range and a sense of relatability (Greenwood, 2019). Stars such as Chalamet swap hyper-masculine traits with openness, feminism and vulnerability.

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Chalamet uses red carpets to portray this less masculine ideal through his style.

He doesn’t have a stylist and instead designers come to him with outfits that create conversations (Greenwood, 2019).

At the Golden Globes in 2019 while most male stars wore traditional suits, Chalamet wore a sparkly Louis Vuitton harness and at the London premiere of his film Beautiful Boy, a film about a young man addicted to methamphetamine, he wore a suit from Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton which featured big red flowers. At the premiere of his Netflix film The King at the Venice Film Festival, Chalamet wore a Haider Ackermann suit which cinched him in at the waist creating an almost feminine silhouette. This portrays that Chalamet as a straight identifying man is willing to take risks that are somewhat feminine and unlike what other males in his industry are doing. >

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Another celebrity whose expression of vulnerability and femininity has helped cultivate a loyal fanbase is Harry Styles, who originally inspired Anne T Donahue’s article written for the guardian on the artthrob. The singer who grew famous from the boy band One Direction still has major success as a solo artist, boasting a following of 33.7 million on Twitter and 24.9 million on Instagram as well as having 23 million monthly listeners on Spotify. The star has been very vocal about gender stating in an interview with the magazine The Face, “What's feminine and masculine... it's like there are no lines anymore” (Mastroianni, 2019). In the past Styles has been very open with the fact he does not want to define his sexuality, stating “Everyone should just be who they want to be. I've never felt the need to [label] really” (Wootton, 2017).

Many people hail Styles as a genderless icon due to his lyrics, style and the fact he often waves rainbow flags on stage in support of the LGBTQ+ community (Li, 2019). The look he wore to the 2019 Met Gala, which he co-hosted, was a jumpsuit that featured a semi-sheer black ruffled shirt and GQ magazine believed the look would be “universally adored and taken as a victory for the contemporary cause of gender-fluid fashion” (Li, 2019).

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Styles’ extravagant on-stage style is a collaborative effort between him and his stylist Harry Lambert. Lambert introduced Styles to the designer Harris Reed and many of their designers were featured on Styles’ world tour. In Amsterdam, Styles wore a “pirate chic head-to-toe” outfit which was designed by Reed (Mastroianni, 2019). Reed has stated about Styles wearing their clothes, “For him to wear my stuff on such a grand stage?

I couldn't stop crying for two days. It wasn't even because he's Harry Styles. It was just seeing so many people email me and send me messages about how happy people were to see him in my designs and pushing a sense of fluidity. I love the word fluid because it represents so many things and doesn't have to identify anyone to any sex, gender, or anything. It's just a way of being” (Mastroianni, 2019). They also stated “I feel that he really understood and got every bit of it. He was so excited and it was such a great step for him, especially with his new song ‘Medicine,’ coming out with that slight reference to his sexuality” (Mastroianni, 2019). Lambert also chose to clothe Styles in Reeds designs in the music video for his 2019 single Lights Up as well as another gender-fluid label Lazoschmidl which is a Swedish brand (Silver, 2019). This conveys that Styles is open to exploring the idea of sexuality in his fashion. I believe Styles wearing gender-fluid brands will influence others to do the same due to his big fan base and following. Styles and Lambert both seem to be portraying they believe gender-fluid brands are the future of fashion. >

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This is also shown through Styles becoming one of the faces of Gucci’s genderless perfume, Memoire d’une Odeur, in 2019. The perfume is a mix of Roman chamomile, Indian coral jasmine petals, musks, and woods like the warm sandalwood and cedarwood (Na, 2019). The fragrance was created to transcend age and gender while also evoking memories for the wearer. The bottle the perfume is in is a vintage transparent green which has a gold cap that Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele chose, “the packaging comes from the past, inspired by an old Gucci perfume from the early ’90s. I didn’t want the bottle to take on a shape or size that is too feminine or too masculine because the perfume could be very much for women or very much for men” (Na, 2019).

The ad campaign featured a diverse cast including Harry Styles and Harris Reed. Michele stated that “the guiding element of the entire campaign is the idea of freedom; the idea of the non-era, the non-place, the non-social. I pictured a world that was a fresco of a ‘mythological’ life in which the family is a private community with its own social framework where total freedom of expression prevails and where the roles of people and things aren’t clear” (Na, 2019). I believe this perfectly encapsulates the idea of the perfume being genderless and the idea of fluidity becoming the new norm in fashion and beauty.

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In 2019 there was a record number of queer characters on TV with shows such as Pose, Euphoria and The L Word helping to make this change in the entertainment industry. These shows have increased the number of trans characters from 26 last year to 38 this year (Abraham, 2019). For the first time in history queer women out-represented queer men (Abraham, 2019). This is due to shows like Euphoria which features Zendaya as Rue, a young girl that falls in love with Jules, a trans-woman played by trans actor and model Hunter Schafer. Zendaya’s character is never explicitly labelled in the show and therefore conveys to young viewers you don’t need a label or to define yourself. The fact Jules being transgender is first referred to in episode three with very little detail or attention brought to it; is a triumph in the representation of the transgender community, as usually television shows focus on their gender identity and make it the only characteristic for the person (Hayes, 2019). The show Pose helped with the representation of people with HIV on TV by upping the number from 7 to 9 (Abraham, 2019). I believe this is an important step in entertainment as we need to destigmatise HIV. The CEO of GLAAD, which is a US LGBTQ+ media monitoring organisation, Sarah Kate Ellis believes the increase in numbers of LGBTQ+ characters on television is optimistic, stating “Last year, GLAAD called on the television industry to increase the number of LGBTQ characters and more accurately reflect the world we live in, and they responded by exceeding this challenge” (Abraham, 2019).

Crumb Agency is a casting agency that “as well as representing a wealth of talent Crumb offers a bespoke casting service. If we can’t accommodate your needs from our database our specialist team will travel, seek and source the perfect human (s) to fit your brief” (Bespoke Casting, no date). The agency’s website has a section for non-binary models which features five people who don’t believe they fit the normal binary genders. I personally believe this is the future of fashion as well as the blurring of genders on the runway due to an increase in castings of androgynous and gender fluid people, which already happened at the Jacquemus Spring 2020 Menswear show which showcased multiple genders wearing the designs. As fashion often reflects politics, the introduction of gender fluidity on the runway is somewhat self-explanatory due to the previously mentioned governmental changes in Northern Ireland. Casting director Noah Shelley states “It’s a much bigger conversation about inclusivity that we’re addressing. It’s not that there were never (transgender or non-binary models) before; I think there are a lot of models who have kept this part of their identity private. The world is changing and I’m dedicated to working in an environment where these conversations are happening more – the reason we’re seeing these numbers increase is not only because people are being honest about who they are (now), but also because they are being respected and celebrated for that. I have definitely seen a more positive shift towards the inclusivity of various gender identities” (Allwood, 2019). With the fluidity of casting on the runway and the growing acceptance of the LGBTQ+, I hold the opinion that luxury stores will follow suit and no longer section their clothing by sex.

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Figure 38 It can be argued that fashion is queer, with the 2019 Met Gala proving this with its theme, Camp: Notes on Fashion (Bobowicz, 2019). This can be also argued if we look back at defining fashion moment of the decade such as Louis Vuitton’s harnesses which came to the internet’s attention when Timothée Chalamet wore one at the Golden Globes in 2019, the Moschino ‘Gayboy’ rebranding of the playboy logo and the Gucci leather jockstraps which were most likely inspired by leather daddies (Bobowicz, 2019). With fashion becoming more progressive, queer art is becoming a reoccurring element of the industry. Jonathan Anderson’s namesake brand is particularly fond of queer art using a colourful homoerotic mural on his storefront in SoHo to promote his new store during London Pride (Bobowicz, 2019). He is making queer art more publicly know with the artists of the mural, Pol Anglada, stating “since I’ve known Jonathan we’ve shared a passion for queer imagery and documentation – from unknown self-published fanzines and anonymous authors, to the key figures in the history of queer art” (Bobowicz, 2019).

Queer art in fashion such as David Wojnarowicz collage of himself wrapped in text similar to the words of tabloids which condemned homosexuals during the AIDs crisis printed on a Loewe t-shirt is still relevant and important today due to violence against LGBTQ+ people still being a reality (Bobowicz, 2019). >

F A S H I O N

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This reality often makes queer art in fashion garner mixed reviews, such as the spring/summer 2018 collaboration between fashion brand Supreme and Nan Goldin. The pieces in the collaboration featured drag queens Misty and Jimmy Paulette and this made the collection sell slower than other drops and saw transphobic and homophobic comments being left on Reddit and streetwear sites (Bobowicz, 2019). However, Supreme’s new collection that features the work of queer artist Martin Wong has received better reviews. Wong’s famous ‘8-Ball’ painting features on hoodies which were originally sold for £156 are now listed on the men’s designer and streetwear marketplace Grailed at prices from £385 to £648 (Bobowicz, 2019).

The better reviews could be due to the fact the artwork is not explicitly queer which is somewhat disappointing as it conveys that the world has not necessarily changed its views but instead are just uneducated to the meaning and artist behind the artwork. Queer art on the runway often receives no criticism, for example, Raf Simon’s use of Robert Mapplethorpe’s hyper-gay imagery which included erect penises and groin-fondling. This could be due to the fact those watching the catwalk are already open towards queerness. Although this could be true, the development from the Cincinnati Contemporary Arts Centre being taken to trial for displaying Mapplethorpe’s work to Simons showing it on luxury clothes to the masses is quite inspiring and hopeful for the acceptance of queer art on the street (Bobowicz, 2019).

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With us only having 12 years to limit the effects of climate change and as we continue to contribute to global warming we worsen the risks of drought, floods, extreme heat and poverty for hundreds of millions of people, we need to begin to make changes in the luxury market in order for the world to still be inhabitable in years to come (Watts, 2018). Designers should consider their carbon footprint with all the products they make as well as making sure they are produced ethically. A way in which luxury brands can lessen their carbon footprint is the use of sustainable fabrics such as ones made from natural substances like bamboo, nettle and pineapple skin. They can also use fabrics such as linen, made from flax and can be processed without chemicals, wool, which holds colour without the use of chemicals, and cotton, which is a biodegradable natural plant-based fabric that makes up a quarter of fabric used in textiles, however, it uses lots of water, pesticides and arable land (Martinko, 2017).

REFERENCES

About Us. (no date). Retrieved from Extinction Rebellion: https://rebellion.earth/the-truth/about-us/ Abraham, A. (2019, November 11). It’s official: a record number of queer characters are now on TV. Retrieved from Dazed: https://www.dazeddigital.com/film-tv/ article/46763/1/record-number-of-lgbtq-characters-on-tv-glaad-lgbtq-report-pose-euphoria?fbclid=IwAR3qEOfNlNhWmu0fOIXQ6yjCuWSikVm7eufeHgcD16OBkTIJqm5UPPrP44c Allwood, E. H. (2019, February 13). Why genderless casting is fashion’s next frontier. Retrieved from Dazed Digital: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43141/1/genderless-casting-nonbinary-trans-models-louis-vuitton-krow-jay-espinosa Bespoke Casting. (no date). Retrieved from Crumb Agency: http://www.crumbagency.com/bespokecasting/ Bevis, E. (2019). AD5605: Fashion Forecasting & Narratives, week 3 [PowerPoint slides]. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/groups/657353694718884/permalink/787484655039120/ Bobowicz, J. (2019, October 16). how fashion gave queer art its renaissance. Retrieved from i-D: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/59nj8z/queer-art-fashion-collaborations-influences?utm_source=idfbuk&utm_medium=socialflow&utm_campaign=global&fbclid=IwAR2i41xosbrN7yd4ilV9Sr0yMh91571ZoFbYntjGFan65jncFTETzMyfT80 Chua, P. (2019, April 5). Luxury At Its Best: Fabulous Brands Owned by the LVMH Group. Retrieved from Town and Country: https://www.townandcountry.ph/style/ fashion/lvmh-luxury-brands-a00208-20190405-lfrm2 Couture and Leather Goods. (no date). Retrieved from Kering: https://www.kering.com/en/houses/couture-and-leather-goods/ DeLong, M. R. (no date). Theories of Fashion. Retrieved from Love to Know: https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/theories-fashion Dockterman, E. (2019, September 25). 'A Doll For Everyone': Meet Mattel's Gender-Neutral Doll. Retrieved from Time: https://time.com/5684822/mattel-gender-neutral-doll/ Dorking, M. C. (2019, October 17). Air Canada to use gender-neutral terms on flights instead of greeting passengers 'ladies and gentlemen'. Retrieved from Yahoo Style: https://uk.style.yahoo.com/air-canada-gender-neutral-ladies-gentlemen-banned-160925248.html Dorking, M. C. (2019, July 10). School uniforms in Wales will be gender neutral from September. Retrieved from Yahoo Style: https://uk.style.yahoo.com/school-uniforms-in-wales-will-be-gender-neutral-from-september-103936978.html

REFERENCES

Edelman, A. (2019, October 18). It’s Official: Gen Z is Rejecting the Gender Binary & the World Needs to Follow Suit. Retrieved from She Knows: https://www.sheknows.com/parenting/articles/2117014/gender-identity-gen-z/ Extinction Rebellion campaigners arrested in London. (2018, November 19). Retrieved from Green World: https://greenworld.org.uk/article/extinction-rebellion-campaigners-arrested-london Fernandez, C. (2019, November 15). Is This the End of Gendered Media? Retrieved from Business of Fashion: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/is-this-the-end-of-gendered-media

Greenwood, D. (2019, September 21). How Timothée Chalamet is ushering in a new era for masculinity. Retrieved from Vogue: https://www.vogue.co.uk/arts-andlifestyle/article/timothee-chalamet-for-new-era-masculinity Hayes, M. (2019, August 3). 'It triggered mass panic!' – is Euphoria the most shocking teen show ever? Retrieved from The Guardian: https://www.theguardian. com/tv-and-radio/2019/aug/03/is-euphoria-the-most-shocking-teen-show-ever Li, D. (2019, October 18). Harry Styles: A gender-fluid icon. Retrieved from Medium: https://medium.com/@w1717229/harry-styles-a-gender-fluid-icon-4ae4c67b964d Martinko, K. (2017, May 24). Do you know what fabrics are most sustainable. Retrieved from Tree Hugger: https://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/doyou-know-which-fabrics-are-most-sustainable.html Mastroianni, B. (2019, September 5). Harry Styles has once again opened up about his views on being gender fluid. Retrieved from Girlfriend: https://www.girlfriend.com.au/harry-styles-opened-up-about-his-views-on-being-gender-fluid-again Na, C. Y. (2019, October 1). You Can Now Cop Gucci's First Genderless Perfume That's Worn By Harry Styles Too. Retrieved from Female Mag: https://www.femalemag.com.sg/beauty/gucci-memoire-first-genderless-perfume-harry-styles/ Our Businesses. (no date). Retrieved from Richemont: https://www.richemont.com/our-businesses.html Page, C. (2019, October 22). Northern Ireland abortion and same-sex marriage laws change. Retrieved from BBC: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-50128860

REFERENCES

Pierce, F. S. (no date). Thorstein Veblen. Retrieved from Britannica: https://www.britannica.com/biography/Thorstein-Veblen Silver, J. (2019, October 11). Harry Styles Wears Gender Fluid Fashion (And Gucci) In New "Lights Up" Video. Retrieved from W Magazine: https://www.wmagazine. com/story/harry-styles-lights-up-video-gender-fluid-fashion Solca, L. (2019, October 24). Don't Believe the Hype: Exclusivity Still Matters. Retrieved from Business of Fashion: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ professional/dont-believe-the-hype-exclusivity-still-matters?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&fbclid=IwAR1kqAO6CGtT2M-3rWgLO3Qo0gr2-YZKy3Ar2svv2aNmZCYkz7k17FvMZVU Spacey, J. (2015, December 18). What is Trend Forecasting? Retrieved from Simplicable: https://simplicable.com/new/trend-forecasting Streetstyle: The Bubble Up Theory. (2012, September 10). Retrieved from Fashion Unstitched: https://fashionunstitched.wordpress.com/2012/09/10/streetstyle-the-bubble-up-theory/ Watts, J. (2018, October 8). We have 12 years to limit climate change catastrophe, warns UN. Retrieved from The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2018/oct/08/global-warming-must-not-exceed-15c-warns-landmark-un-report What is Extinction Rebellion and what does it want? (2019, October 7). Retrieved from BBC: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-48607989 Wootton, D. (2017, May 17). Chart-topper Harry Styles on how his new album was ‘therapy’, One Direction’s future and his sexuality. Retrieved from The Sun: https://www.thesun.co.uk/tvandshowbiz/3560582/harry-styles-new-album-therapy-flame-tess-ward-dan-wootton-exclusive/

IMAGE REFERENCES

Figure 1 - Grey Mist - https://www.stickpng.com/img/nature/smoke/very-light-smoke-cloud

Figure 2 - Gucci Print Tights - https://www.kooboxshop.com/product/gg-gucci-fabric-cotton-grey Figure 3 - Youtuber Byron Denton wearing Balenciaga and Supreme posted to Instagram on 23rd October - https://www.instagram.com/p/B3-ExphguU2/?igshid=1iitwf7efw85d Figure 4 - Balenciaga print - https://bureauborsche.com/projects/balenciaga-logo Figure 5 - Screenshot of Byron Denton’s instagram post from 23rd November - https://www.instagram.com/p/B5OKQBnA4Bo/ Figure 6 - Celine Bag – https://www.carousell.ph/search/PLASTIC%20BAGS? Figure 7 - Fendi Bag - https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/best-fendi-bags--5b683598977d3/slide3 Figure 8 - Gucci Bag – https://hypebae.com/2017/12/vintage-designer-bag-where-to-buy-gucci-louis-vuitton-chanel-dior Figure 9 - Louis Vuitton Bag – https://www.lovestylemindfulness.co.uk/9-of-the-best-90s-handbag/ Figure 10 - Marlon Brando in The Wild One (1953) - http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/marlon-brando/images/30585701/title/wild-one-photo Figure 11 - Alexander McQueen Skull print - https://www.endclothing.com/cn/alexander-mcqueen-skull-pashmina-scarf-5577174943q-9260.html Figure 12 - The North is Next Image – https://news.sky.com/story/northern-ireland-same-sex-marriage-and-abortion-to-become-legal-at-midnight-11840837 Figure 13 - Gender Neutral drawimg - https://medium.com/@mjmorrow/why-becoming-gender-neutral-is-the-business-challenge-of-the-21st-century-ad6555f18c85 Figure 14 - Gender Neutral flag - https://www.pride.com/pride/2018/6/13/complete-guide-queer-pride-flags-0 Figure 15 - School boys wearing skirts as school uniform - https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/07/01/elite-private-school-gets-dressing-says-boys-canwear-skirts/

IMAGE REFERENCES

Figure 16 - Mattel Gender Neutral doll - https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/25/arts/mattel-gender-neutral-dolls.html Figure 17 - Salty magazine cover - https://workingnotworking.com/projects/163727-salty-magazine Figure 18 - Extinction Rebellion protest - https://www.edie.net/registration/regwall.asp?mid=115748&origin=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eedie%2Enet%2Fnews%2F9%2FExtinction%2DRebellion%2D%2DRole%2Dof%2Dbusiness%2Din%2Dsociety%2Dbeing%2Ddefined%2Dby%2Dclimate%2Dchange%2F&title=Extinction+Rebellion%3A+Role+of+business+in+society+is+being+defined+by+climate+change Figure 19 - Call Me By Your Name poster – https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5726616/ Figure 20 - Lady Bird poster – https://www.amazon.co.uk/Posters-LADY-BIRD-Saoirse-Canadian/dp/B078P6QDTL Figure 21 - Beautiful Boy poster – https://www.amazon.com/Beautiful-Boy-Movie-Poster-FINESTPRINT88/dp/B07K5JRBRB Figure 22 - The King poster - https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7984766/ Figure 23 - Floral print - https://www.sewessential.co.uk/floral-print-woven-fabric-black-and-multi Figure 24 - Timothee Chalamet wearing Haider Ackermann at the Venice premiere of The King (2019) - https://theamericanbarber.tv/2019/09/03/bitchy-timothee-chalamet-went-full-tilda-swinton-at-the-venice-film-festival/ Figure 25 - Timothee Chalamet at the UK premiere of Beautiful Boy in Alexander McQueen - https://people.com/style/timothee-chalamet-suits-photos/?utm_ source=pinterest.com&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=social-share-gallery&utm_content=20191217&utm_term=6642773&slide=6643001#6643001 Figure 26 - Timothee Chalamet wearing Louis Vuitton at the Golden Globes - https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/style/timothee-chalamet-best-style-fashion-photos-a4020976.html Figure 27 - LGBTQ+ pride flag - https://www.reddragonflagmakers.co.uk/products/lgbt-pride-flag?variant=13622372167 Figure 28 - Harry Styles in Bangkok on 7th May wearing Gucci - https://www.buzzfeed.com/thisisafamilyshow/a-definitive-ranking-of-harry-styles-2018-tour-su-3hibv?utm_term=.cs0rZwQPE Figure 29 - Harry Styles in Manila on 5th January wearing Harris Reed - https://medium.com/@EmilyDepp24/my-definitive-ranking-of-harry-styles-2018-touroutfits-e489eeccf073

IMAGE REFERENCES

Figure 30 - Mémoire d’une Odeur Eau de Parfum by Gucci - https://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g6152/best-fall-perfumes/ Figure 31 - Mémoire d’une Odeur Eau de Parfum campaign - https://www.gucci.com/int/en/st/stories/article/campaign-memoire-odeur

Figure 32 - Mémoire d’une Odeur Eau de Parfum campaign - https://www.harpersbazaararabia.com/beauty/news/gucci-has-just-dropped-its-genderlessm%C3%A9moire-d%E2%80%99une-odeur-fragrance Figure 33 - Mémoire d’une Odeur Eau de Parfum campaign - https://fashionista.com/2019/08/gucci-harry-styles-memoire-d-une-odeur-fragrance-campaign Figure 34 - Zendaya and Hunter Schafer in Euphoria - https://www.insider.com/hbo-new-show-euphoria-everything-you-need-to-know-about-2019-6 Figure 35 - Silver glitter - http://www.hgdesigns.co/ Figure 36 - Model Velveteen for Crumb Agency - http://www.crumbagency.com/humans/women/760-velveteen/ Figure 37 - Model Jamie for Crumb Agency - http://www.crumbagency.com/humans/nonbinary/210-jamie/ Figure 38 - JW Anderson store with mural by Pol Anglada - https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/jw-anderson-london-store Figure 39 - Supreme X Nan Goldin Collaboration skateboards - https://supercopbot.com/2018/03/supreme-x-nan-goldin/ Figure 40 - Supreme Martin Wong 8-Ball Beanie Black - https://stockx.com/supreme-martin-wong-8-ball-beanie-black Figure 41 - Supreme Nan Goldin Misty and Jimmy Paulette Hoodie ‘Black’ - https://shop-swap.com/products/supremenangoldinmistyandjimmypaulettehoodieblack Figure 42 - Martin Wong x Supreme FW19 Collection - https://hypebeast.com/2019/11/martin-wong-supreme-fw19-collection-info Figure 43 - Bamboo fabric - https://www.grahamsandersoninteriors.com/fabrics/clarke-and-clarke/biarritz/biarritz-bamboo Figure 44 - Nettle fabric - http://www.organicfabrics.co.za/shop/sustainable-fabric/organic-fabric-woven-fabrics/plain-hand-spun-nettle-fabric/ Figure 45 - Pinatex fabric - https://www.instagram.com/p/BJvJCRNhv4k/?igshid=1jnghtuu7wl65

Fashion Forecasting and Narratives AD5605 Luxury Market Shannon Gallagher 1804454