Communicating Metamorphosis

COMMUNICATING

METAMORPOSIS

44 STYLING

6 TREND OVERVIEW

45 Artthrob

8 TRADITIONAL AND DIGITAL COMMUNICATION OF GUCCI

52 Artthrob Digital Styling

12 TRADITIONAL AND DIGITAL COMMUNICATION OF JACQUEMUS

54 Artthrob Makeup

18 TRADITIONAL AND DIGITAL COMMUNICATION OF ART SCHOOL

56 Euphoric

22 TRADITIONAL AND DIGITAL COMMUNICATION OF HARRIS REED 64 Euphoric Digital Styling 26 THE 2025 CONSUMER

66 Euphoric Makeup

28 OUTCOME

68 PHOTOSHOOT

30 FASHION FILM

70 REFERENCES

36 FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY

72 IMAGE REFERENCES

TENTS CONTENTS CONTENTS CONTENTS CON

4 INTRODUCTION

INTRO DUCT ION 4

The ways in which Luxury brands communicate themselves varies due to target market and brand ethos. There are many different communication techniques such as photography, styling, illustration, graphics, film and runway show production. Traditionally these communication techniques could be distributed in ways such as advertisement, magazine editorials and live streams.

Now brands utilize the rise of social media and the new digitally native generations to communicate their brand. This is most predominant in the fast fashion and high street market with brands like Pretty Little Thing having 12.2 million Instagram followers, Missguided having 5.1 million followers and Nasty Gal having 4.4 million followers. With this being said luxury brands are now starting to utilize social media as Millennials and Generation Z become their target market.

To better understand how the luxury market communicates their brand I have decided to look into the photography, film, runway and social media of brands which have ideas or a brand ethos that support my trend. This will help to inform me on how I can communicate my trend effectively.

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The Metamorphosis trend is based on the continuing feminisation and ungendering of menswear and the prominence of gender fluid and non-binary identifying people. Metamorphosis bubbled up from streetwear, television and red carpets as the ideals behind it were already prominent in those places. This is due to gender-fluidity being better represented in mainstream media as well as social media. My trend has four aspects, The New Basic, Artthrob, Euphoric and Vulnerability. The New Basic is the idea that in 2025 basic clothing items such as jeans and plain t-shirts will not be tailored in a certain way for each gender and the way in which these items are styled will make them either feminine or masculine. Artthrob looks at menswear being more feminine with the use of colours, patterns, embellishments and silhouettes that are usually seen on women. This aspect was inspired by celebrities such as TimothĂŠe Chalamet, Harry Styles and Troye Sivan. Euphoric is inspired by the American TV drama Euphoria which has a transgender main character. The makeup in the show is what I believe men will be wearing in 2025 as well as mesh and underwear as outerwear which is also inspired by the show and its positive attitude towards sexuality and queerness. The last aspect, Vulnerability, is inspired by the new movement of men being encouraged to show emotion which is encapsulated in deconstructed garments such as knitwear as skin would be exposed. Metamorphosis also has an underlining asapect of sustainability as the luxury will become more sustainable in 2025, to help lessen the effects of global warming, by using materials such as ones made from natural substances like bamboo, nettle and pineapple skin as well as natural fabrics like linen, made from flax and can be processed without chemicals, wool, which holds colour without the use of chemicals, and cotton, which is a biodegradable natural plant-based fabric that makes up a quarter of fabric used in textiles (Martinko, 2017).

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TREND OVER VIEW 7

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Traditional and Digital Communication of Gucci

In 2017 the Gucci brand began to see an increase in purchases from millennials with Francois-Henri Pinault, the CEO of Luxury brand group Kering, stating that “50% of Gucci’s sales are coming from millennials” (Danziger, 2017). Analysts have linked Gucci’s success with Millennials to its internet strategies, digital connection and in-store experience which create an omnichannel (Danziger, 2017). Marketing consulting firm Britton has stated that “Gucci has woven e-commerce, social media, digital marketing and the integration of mobile apps into the tapestry of its legacy offline business. As a consequence, the modern consumer’s relationship with Gucci is holistic, which has resulted in huge returns from longtime customers and new converts alike” (Danziger, 2017). This conveys that by choosing to invest time in the communication of their brand on social media, Gucci has helped improve their relationship with existing customers while also attracting new ones.

Gucci uses Instagram to post images of celebrities wearing their garments at red carpet events, images from backstage of runway shows and images and videos of the runway. They use IGTV to post runway shows, campaigns and fashion films so the social media dominant generations can access them easily and efficiently. They also use Shop Now on Instagram so their followers can quickly buy items featured in their posts. The Gucci accounts boasts 39 million followers with celebrities such as Harry Styles, Lana Del Rey, Elle Fanning, Ariana Grande and Victoria Beckham being part of that huge number (Gucci, no date). They garner thousands of likes on their posts which portrays their imagery is popular with the market it is trying to attract.

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Gucci also uses more traditional techniques such as fashion photography and film which can be seen with the Gucci Cruise 2020 campaign ComeAsYouAre_RSVP. This campaign was shot by Spring Breakers director Harmony Korine and had art direction by Christopher Simmonds and creative direction by Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci (#ComeAsYouAre_RSVP, no date).

The Campaign features celebrities such as Iggy Pop, Gucci Mane, Sienna Miller, Benedetta Barzini, Countess Marisela Federici, and Italian artists Orlando Miani and Angelo Bucarelli. Michele described them as the embodiment of the archetypes the ‘wild rockstar, the glamorous socialite, the bourgeois lady, the tycoon, and the hip hop star’ (Diallo, 2019).

The range of people attending this party wearing the Gucci brand is reflective of how the brand is promoting inclusivity portraying that all genders and ages can wear the ancient Rome and 70s inspired collection (Diallo, 2019). The party setting helps to create a hedonistic, people “whose life is devoted to the pursuit of pleasure and self-gratification”, feel as those attending are there to have fun and indulge themselves (Hedonist, no date).

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Traditional and Digital Communication of Jacquemus Simon Porte Jacquemus’ designs have always been inspired by the South of France due to his upbringing there ([i-D], 2019). This is also conveyed in the way he communicates his brand.

The Spring 2018 Ready-To-Wear collection which is named La Bomba is highly influenced by the South of France and Jacquemus’ mother, who died when he was young, like all other collections he has produced ([i-D], 2019). Jacquemus perfectly communicates his influences in the La Bomba fashion film which was directed by Gordon con Steiner and creative direction by Simon Porte Jacquemus ([JACQUEMUS], 2018). The location creates a sense of relaxation and chicness while the music and dancing create a sultry mood.

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Jacquemus has now begun to have only one runway show for each season, choosing to show both womenswear and menswear during men’s fashion week. This was first done with his 10-year anniversary collection for Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear (Diderich, 2020). This show was set in a beautiful lavender field in Provence and featured androgynous models wearing outfits that could easily be worn by any gender (Diderich, 2020).

The pieces were all cohesive with each other conveying that the collection fit together as a whole rather than separated due to gender. The collection clearly has male clothes and female clothes due to the variation of models however the clothes are very similar for example the loose fitting suits therefore communicating that the brand could be thinking of blurring the line between the two sexes however have settled for something more subtle to begin with.

The Fall 2020 collection follows the same co-ed theme however only 23 of the 63 looks were menswear which shows the Jacquemus brand has more of a focus on womenswear which relates to the fact Jacquemus could not at first see himself creating menswear (Tewson, 2018).

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Like Gucci, Jacquemus use Instagram to help sell products, show their new runway collections, show celebrities wearing his garments and Jacquemus also seems to use his Instagram to show gratitude to his 1.7 million following with three posts from 3rd September 2019 which are collages of women wearing Jacquemus pieces featuring the caption “I did Jacquemus for my mother 10 years ago.

And I’ve never seen so many women wearing Jacquemus as in the last month. I feel so proud and honored. Thank you to all of you” (Jacquemus, no date).

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Traditional and Digital Communication of Art School Another brand which only shows at men’s fashion week is Art School which is a unisex brand founded by Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt (Art School, no date). The brand focuses on queer style with the ideas being influenced by the founders themselves as well as their non-binary and queer friends (Art School, no date). The brand is unusual in the sense that they design their garments around the models they cast for each season and base the garments off their personality and story ([SHOWstudio], 2018). While they show at men’s fashion week Loweth states that “three quarters of our cast are on the female side of the spectrum” which is somewhat new and progressive for menswear however this is now catching on with other brands like previously mentioned brand Jacquemus ([SHOWstudio], 2018). The way in which they communicate their brand on the runway is very influential to my trend as they put male passing individuals in stereotypically feminine clothing which is an aspect of my trend.

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Images taken by Naomi Martin and Rob Rusling at Art School’s LiveStudio with SHOWstudio perfectly encapsulates the brands idea of queerness. The backdrop of the images was produced by artist Dominic Myatt and features naked bodies and spray paint which was painted over jewellery for the collection. The combination of the backdrop, garments and lighting create a sense of playfulness and creativity which are often words that relate to queerness. The diverse selection of people in the images help to communicate the brands ethos of inclusivity.

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The brand uses Instagram in a somewhat simple and minimalistic way as they just showcase their runway looks, photoshoots and images of celebrities in their clothing. They do not use their social media to sell product and instead you could see it as an online portfolio of their work.

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Traditional and Digital Communication of Art School The Harris Reed brand is inspired by current political and social issues (About, no date). They believe designs should create conversation around these issues and understands that clothes can have a transformative effect due to the fact clothes can be liberating and helpful in expressing one’s identity (About, no date). The brands ethos is one of gender fluidity and inclusivity (About, no date).

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Reed works closely with both stylist Harry Lambert and singer Harry Styles which helps to communicate the kind of person that would wear the brand. Harry Styles’ political awareness, for example his black lives matter sticker on his guitar and the waving around of gay pride flags on stage, and lack of labelling of his sexual identity makes him the perfect embodiment of the non-binary ideal the brand strives for. Reed has stated that “What’s amazing is that the people I’ve dressed – Harry, Solange, Ezra Miller, Troye Sivan – have all been huge advocates for the LGBTQI community. When everything I’ve done is so politically fueled, it means so much that the people I idolize are not only wearing my clothes but believe in what they stand for” (Reed, 2019). Due to this collaboration and the custom pieces often made for him, Styles features on the Harris Reed Instagram multiple times. The use of this worldwide star has helped to sky-rocket Reed’s success in the fashion world. Like Gucci, the Harris Reed brand is synonymous with Styles and therefore they have been able to cultivate a target market of Millennials and Generation Z. Reeds collaboration with Styles helped them to begin working with Gucci, with Reed walking for a Gucci Resort runway show (Reed, 2019).

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The 2025 Consumer

In 2025 the age range of my target market will be 13-40 as this is the youngest age a member of Generation Z will be and the oldest a Millennial will be. However, the younger side of Generation Z, 13-17, will most likely not be able to invest in my trend due to it being in the luxury market and their lack of disposable income. The Generation Z age range of 18-30 are likely to invest in luxury due to either the idea of exclusivity of the brands and those who own luxury items, such as celebrities and social media influencers, as well as the fact they could have a high disposable income. This generation is noted to be more accepting than other generations and therefore the ideas of menswear being more feminine and clothing being on its way to become more gender fluid will be welcomed by them. They would also be accepting of this due to the fact in 2018 a study from the journal Pediatrics stated that nearly 3% of kids they studied identified as non-binary, gender-nonconforming or transgender which is an increase from the 0.7% of teens identifying as transgender recorded in a UCLA study in 2017 (Edelman, 2019).The Millennials, 31-40, will most likely have a stable job and will have either started or be looking to start a family.

Due to their stable job they would have a high disposable income which means they would buy luxury more frequently than those in Generation z. However this being said those with a family may not want to spend so much on luxury clothing as they want to support their family’s needs more.

The 2025 consumer will be leading a sustainable life due to the increased knowledge of climate change and the enforcement of sustainability laws such as the diesel and petrol car ban in the UK which will come into effect 10 years after my trend is forecasted (Gwyn Topham, 2020). As a collective the world has 12 years to lessen the effects of global warming or else we worsen the risk of drought, floods, extreme heat and poverty for hundreds of millions of people (Watts, 2018).

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To communicate my trend Metamorphosis, which is all about menswear becoming more feminine and vulnerable, I believe fashion film and photography are the best forms of media. Social media is more suited marketing fast fashion and high street rather than luxury as smaller luxury brands seem to use social media to showcase their runway shows and fashion photography. Bigger social media brands like Gucci and Jacquemus, which I have talked about previously, use their social media like their smaller counterparts as well as using features like IGTV and Shop Now which fast fashion and high street brands like Pretty Little Thing, Nasty Gal, Missguided, H&M and Topshop. Fashion film can easily translate the emotions and feelings behind the trend with movement, lighting, settings, props and music. From watching fashion films from Gucci and Jacquemus I got a clear indication of what their collection was inspired by as it was communicated through the narrative of the film. I also feel that the way in which Gucci’s films are accompanied by photography made the communication of the collection much more effective as it increases the reach it had as some people may prefer the still image to the moving and the photographs can be easily distributed in magazines, street advertisements and on social media.

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FASHION FILM

To communicate the narrative of Metamorphosis, fashion film is the best fit. The narrative of my trend will be split into two sections as I will look into the Artthrob and Euphoric aspect of Metamorphosis. This is similar to the narrative of the Turnt 2018 film titled Electric as the model is shown in multiple different makeup looks and also the Young Blood ‘One Year Closer To Death’ film which features models in multiple settings and outfits. The close-up shots of makeup and the use of glitter are something I will reference in my film as they fit the narrative and aesthetic of the Euphoric aspect of my trend. The styling and shots in the Young Bloods ‘One Year Closer To Death’ film will definitely inspire the communication of my trend. The fantasy tea party narrative to it is quite interest and reminds me of Alice in Wonderland. The shots are all very quick paced which helps the narrative to move on quickly and is again something I will use in my film.

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FASHION FILM FASHION FILM FASH FILM FASHION FILM FASHION FILM SHION FILM FASHION FILM FASHIO LM FASHION FILM FASHION FILM HION FILM FASHION FILM FASHION M FASHION FILM FASHION FILM FA ION FILM FASHION FILM FASHION M FASHION FILM FASHION FILM FA I have chosen to have my fashion film look into the aspects Artthrob and Euphoric as they are the most extravagant ideas and perfectly represent what luxury will be like for men in 2025. Although The New Basic and Vulnerability are prominent points in the trend of Metamorphosis due to the fact they convey the ideas of ungendering clothing and men being able to show emotion and authenticity, they don’t have as much of a luxury feel as Artthrob and Euphoric do. The Artthrob persona is the new type of heartthrob which Millennial and Gen Z women are attracted to, he is caring, vulnerable, intelligent and not afraid to be feminine and authentic. He is able to express himself by wearing clothes that are predominantly feminine and not feel emasculated. The Euphoric persona embraces queerness, sexuality and subtle flamboyance. Much like those that attend the fashion designer Charles Jeffrey’s Loverboy monthly club nights at Vogue Fabrics, which Jeffrey created for people to be able to authentically express themselves (Addy, no date). To effectively portray the aspects I have chosen, I will split the film in two halves to portray the two different type of men there are in the world of my narrative. Both aspects will feature the same model to convey that one man can follow the ideals of both Artthrob and Euphoric. The two scenes will show the model getting ready to be one of the aspects conveying the trend is not just about the clothes but about how a man can express himself freely in which ever way he would like.

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HION FILM FASHION FILM FASHIO M FASHION FILM FASHION FILM FA ON FILM FASHION FILM FASHION FASHION FILM FASHION FILM FAS N FILM FASHION FILM FASHION FI ASHION FILM FASHION FILM FASH FILM FASHION FILM FASHION FIL ASHION FILM FASHION FILM FAS The film will be shot in the studio and each scene will have the same white background to convey the room in which the model is getting ready in is the same therefore helping to push the narrative of it being the same man expressing himself in different ways. A chair and table will be used to create the setting of a bedroom where the man is getting himself ready. The white background and chair and table combined will make the film quite dreamlike as the background is so simple and this reflects the idea that the Artthrob is Millennials and Generation Z’s ideal man and is a dream of young women globally.

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Artthrob will feature props which would be considered feminine such as flowers, a perfume bottle, a handheld mirror and lipstick. These props will help to create an even more feminine feel to the look and help to convey the narrative of men being able to wear and enjoy stereotypical feminine things.

Flowers will be used as they are often associated with women as they often receive them as gifts as well as them being a prominent feature in women’s clothing whether that be through pattern, graphic print, embroidery or other embellishment techniques. The perfume bottle, handheld mirror and lipstick will be used to help portray the beauty aspect of Artthrob. They will help to convey the idea that beauty products are not gendered and can be worn by anyone, men can smell stereotypically feminine and wear lipstick while still being heterosexual and cis gendered. The perfume also links into the new Gucci genderless perfume, Memoire d’une Odeur, which conveys the fashion and beauty industry is already becoming more progressive and portraying that men and women can wear the same beauty products.

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EUP HORIC Euphoric will feature props such as glitter, wine glasses and a wine bottle. These items will be used as they represent a sophisticated yet party like ideal which is similar to the aspect Euphoric as this part of Metamorphosis is somewhat hedonistic and about self-expression and sensuality.

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Fashion Photography To accompany my fashion film, I’m going to take photos during my film shoot which will convey the narrative of the moving image. I have decided to do this as fashion photography is an effective way of communicating a brand or a trend to the public as it can be distributed easily in writing publications and public advertisements.

This is somewhat similar to the Gucci Cruise 2020 campaign and the Gucci Spring Summer 2019 campaign as their fashion photography coincided with their fashion film. There will be two final images, one conveying Arttrob and one conveying Euphoric. Looked at one by one they will convey their aspect but when combined they will show the narrative that men can be more than one thing and express themselves in different ways.

I looked into different campaigns and editorials to gather inspiration for poses which could be used in the fashion photography shoot. The campaigns and editorials with poses that would inspire my shoot are mostly womenswear which I believe conveys the feminine ideas in my trend.

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The close-up images of the Rodarte Spring 2020 collection especially the images featuring Alexa Demie in a white and black dress with black sheer gloves with pearls on and in a pink sequined dress with white sheer gloves with pearls on are a big inspiration. These poses are both feminine and powerful.

They perfectly show off the details of the garments while also highlighting her face which is something I will take into account when shooting my images as the makeup is just as important as the garments in my trend.

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The images from the Wonderland magazine editorial ‘Lindsey Wixson’ such as the ones in the pink tassle top, the fluffy top and the love heart dress are also feminine and powerful.

The use of her hands touching her head once again help to highlight her face, which is something I need to consider doing in my images to draw attention to the makeup of the model.

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The Wonderland magazine editorial ‘Saddle Up’ features an image of the model sat down on the floor in a somewhat masculine pose which I think perfectly conveys my trends idea of a man being able to wear stereotypical feminine clothing while still being a macho heterosexual cisgender man.

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This editorial also features an image of the model in a dress and sombrero with her arms across her stomach which I believe creates a sense of vulnerability as she is in a way covering her body, this relates back to the idea of vulnerability which is part of my trend.

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The portrait image of the model in a pink shirt and white dress has quite a powerful stance and the framing helps to not only effectively show the clothes but also her face. I believe this would be a good pose for the Euphoric aspect as it would show off the models makeup which is an important part of the aesthetic of Euphoric as well as being able to show off the upper half of the body which would be the focal point of the outfit.

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The one menswear editorial I will take inspiration from is the Wonderland magazine editorial ‘New Normal’ specifically the image of the model wearing a bright green turtleneck top with gloves attached to the sleeves as his pose again like the other editorials highlights his face due to his hand slightly touching his face.

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The Jenny Packham dress featured in the Wonderland magazine editorial ‘Wuthering Heights’ styled by Kamran Rajput is a reference for the styling of Artthrob as the dress has the simple overall shade of white but the black piping on the ruffles help to amplify the femininity of the silhouette as it highlights each tier in the ruffles.

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Two of the outfits featured in the Pansy magazine editorial ‘Emil’ styled by Fatima Ropero have helped to inspire my styling of the Artthrob aspect. The outfit with the purple ruffled top and the outfit with the red ruffled dress will be a point of reference when it comes to the silhouette of the garment as the ruffled fabric gives off a very feminine feel and the way in which the red dress is paired with a blazer and red socks helps to add this masculine edge. The way in which the male models unshaved legs are also shown in this dress again make it more masculine.

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The flower embroidered lace shirt from 3n3o Official used on the Pansy magazine editorial ‘He’s Wonderland’ styled by Peggy Chiao as well as the Millefeuille Lace top from Tanfengli perfectly encapsulate the aesthetic of Artthrob.

The flower pattern in the shirt and the ruffles in the top are concepts in the Artthrob section of Metamorphosis due to the fact they are usually seen in women’s clothing and Artthrob is about making menswear more feminine.

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The Wonderland magazine editorial ‘Perfect Day’ styled by Tona Stell features multiple floral dresses from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Magda Butrym and Borgo de Nor as well as block colour dresses from Magda Butrym and Tibi. The dresses are all extremely feminine with ruffles, balloon sleeves and ruching. I will use this editorial as a point of reference for my garment for Artthrob as not only is the pattern feminine but so if the silhouette of the dress and I want to convey that men can wear any pattern or silhouette they want.

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I will style my model in a very feminine dress for Artthrob to convey the idea that clothes, patterns, colour and embellishments are not gendered and men can wear garments that are stereotypically targeted at women. I will use all the editorials above as inspiration as they all perfectly encapsulate the feeling and narrative I want to convey in my fashion film and fashion photography.

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The styling of the Wonderland magazine editorial ‘Bedtime Story’ styled by Gianluca Cococcia will be a big inspiration in the styling of the Euphoric section of my film and photography especially the outfit featuring a Kenzo shirt, a Ryan Lo gilet, Wooyoungmi trousers and Black eyewear sunglasses due to the fact it is a very loud outfit which is very expressive. The Marvin Desroc top featured in another outfit will also be inspiration as it uses lace and fish net fabric in a way that emulates underwear.

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The use of the Prangsta’s Costumiers corset over the Nabil Nayal shirt and the Miu Miu top over the Brognano blouse in the Wonderland magazine editorial ‘The Princess is Here’ styled by Toni-Blaze Ibekwe is something I will reference in the styling of Euphoric as the corset and top over the shirt and blouse creates that sense of underwear as outerwear which is a key factor in this aspect of my trend.

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The Wonderland magazine editorial ‘Procrastination’ styled by Umar Sarwar will be a key reference in the styling of Euphoric as it has many outfits that feature mesh fabric such as a McQ Alexander McQueen top and a Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello shirt. This editorial showed me that some of the aspects of Euphoric are already accessible to buy in the luxury market however my outfit will combine this with the underwear as outerwear aesthetic.

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The corsé by Daniela González for CENTRO featured in the Pansy magazine editorial ‘Inside/Outside’ styled by Alonso Murillo which was paired with a Carlos Pineda shirt is again something I will reference in my styling. The mixture of patterns on the corsé paired with the pink shirt makes the outfit loud and almost theatrical however the outfit for Euphoric will be less colourful and will focus on the colour palette of black, grey, purple and burgundy.

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For the styling of my Euphoric section I believe the use of makeup and mesh fabrics will help communicate the ideas of sexuality and queerness. I would also use a corseted belt as I believe that ties into the idea of underwear as outerwear for men. Just like the styling for Artthrob I will use all the editorials above as inspiration for Euphoric as each one has something which relates to the aesthetic and narrative I am trying to create.

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FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC FERENCES REFERENCES REFERENC #ComeAsYouAre_RSVP. (no date). Retrieved from Gucci: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_ gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/cruise-2020-campaign-shoppable [i-D]. (2019, June 6). How Jacquemus Became One Of Fashion’s Most Loved Labels | i-D [Video File]. Retrieved from Youtube: https://youtu.be/_cxRj476Apg [JACQUEMUS]. (2018, February 23). “LA BOMBA”. Retrieved from Youtube: https://youtu. be/mL7Gx7tbVR4 [SHOWstudio]. (2018, July 20). ART SCHOOL: High Concept Character - Process Film QUEER 2018. Retrieved from Youtube: https://youtu.be/xoivnWFUFv8 About. (no date). Retrieved from Harris Reed: https://www.harrisreed.com/about Addy, C. (no date). Charles Jeffrey x Loverboy. Retrieved from Petrie Inventory: http://www. petrieinventory.com/charles-jeffrey-x-loverboy Art School. (no date). Retrieved from SHOWstudio: https://www.showstudio.com/contributors/art_school

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Diallo, H. (2019, October 1). Gucci parties with Iggy Pop & Gucci Mane in its new Cruise campaign. Retrieved from Dazed: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46266/1/ gucci-party-cruise-2020-campaign-iggy-pop-mane-harmony-korine-sienna-miller Diderich, J. (2020, January 9). EXCLUSIVE: Jacquemus Goes Coed. Retrieved from WWD: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/exclusive-jacquemus-goes-coed-1203415216/ Edelman, A. (2019, October 18). It’s Official: Gen Z is Rejecting the Gender Binary & the World Needs to Follow Suit. Retrieved from She Knows: https://www.sheknows.com/parenting/articles/2117014/gender-identity-gen-z/ Gucci. (no date). Retrieved from Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gucci/ Gwyn Topham, J. A. (2020, February 4). Car industry: PM has ‘moved goalposts’ over petrol and diesel ban. Retrieved from The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2020/feb/04/car-industry-petrol-diesel-ban-uk-electric-vehicles Hedonist. (no date). Retrieved from Dictionary: https://www.dictionary.com/browse/hedonistic Jacquemus. (no date). Retrieved from Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/jacquemus/ Martinko, K. (2017, May 24). Do you know what fabrics are most sustainable. Retrieved from Tree Hugger: https://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-fashion/do-you-knowwhich-fabrics-are-most-sustainable.html Reed, H. (2019, February 7). Designer Harris Reed on dressing everyone from Harry Styles to Solange Knowles. Retrieved from Tatler: https://www.tatler.com/article/harris-reed-fashion-designer Tewson, C. (2018, November 27). Five Minutes with… Simon Porte Jacquemus. Retrieved from Front Row Edit: https://www.frontrowedit.co.uk/five-minutes-with-simon-portejacquemus/ Watts, J. (2018, October 8). We have 12 years to limit climate change catastrophe, warns UN. Retrieved from The Guardian: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2018/ oct/08/global-warming-must-not-exceed-15c-warns-landmark-un-report

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Fugure 1 - Screenshot of @gucci account on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram. com/gucci/ Figure 2 – Screenshot of @gucci feed on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram. com/gucci/ Figure 3 – Screenshot of @gucci IGTV on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram. com/gucci/ Figure 4 – Screenshot of @gucci Shop Now on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram.com/gucci/ Figure 5 - Image from Gucci Cruise 2020 campaign #ComeAsYouAre_RSVP featuring Siena Miller shot by Harmony Korine - https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/cruise-2020-campaign-shoppable Figure 6 – Image from Gucci Cruise 2020 campaign #ComeAsYouAre_RSVP featuring Iggy Pop shot by Harmony Korine - https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/cruise-2020-campaign-shoppable 72

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Figure 7 - Image from Gucci Cruise 2020 campaign #ComeAsYouAre_RSVP featuring Gucci Mane shot by Harmony Korine - https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/cruise-2020-campaign-shoppable Figure 8 - Screenshot from Jacquemus fashion film ‘La Bomb’ on Youtube - https://youtu. be/mL7Gx7tbVR4 Figure 9 - Screenshot from Jacquemus fashion film ‘La Bomb’ on Youtube - https://youtu. be/mL7Gx7tbVR4 Figure 10 - Screenshot from Jacquemus fashion film ‘La Bomb’ on Youtube - https://youtu.be/mL7Gx7tbVR4 Figure 11 - Jacquemus Spring 2020 Menswear runway location - https://www.lofficielusa. com/fashion/jacquemus-spring-2020 Figure 12 – Garments from Jacquemus Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/jacquemus/slideshow/collection#16 Figure 13 – Garments from Jacquemus Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/jacquemus/slideshow/collection#4 Figure 14 - Garments from Jacquemus Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/jacquemus/slideshow/collection#32 Figure 15 - Screenshot of @jacquemus account on the Instagram app - https://www. instagram.com/jacquemus/ Figure 16 – Screenshot of @jacquemus feed on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram.com/jacquemus/ Figure 17 – Screenshot of @jacquemus IGTV on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram.com/jacquemus/ Figure 18 - Screenshot of @jacquemus Shop Now on the Instagram app - https://www. instagram.com/jacquemus/ Figure 19 - Art School Fall 2019 Menswear pattern - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/art-school/slideshow/collection#4 Figure 20 – Garments from Art School Fall 2019 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/art-school/slideshow/collection#22 Figure 21 – Garments from Art School Fall 2019 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/art-school/slideshow/collection#12 73

Figure 22 – Garments from Art School Fall 2019 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2019-menswear/art-school/slideshow/collection#15 Figure 23 - Image from ART SCHOOL’s LiveStudio High Concept Character on SHOW Studio taken by Naomi Martin and Rob Rusling published on 12th June 2018 - https://www.showstudio.com/projects/art-school-live-studio/art_school_livestudio_high_concept_character Figure 24 - Screenshot of @artschool_london account on the Instagram app - https://www. instagram.com/artschool_london/ Figure 25 – Screenshot of @artschool_london feed on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram.com/artschool_london/ Figure 26 - Image of Harris Reed designs - https://www.harrisreed.com/hunter Figure 27 - Screenshot of @harris_reed account on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram.com/harris_reed/ Figure 28 – Screenshot of @harris_reed feed on the Instagram app - https://www.instagram. com/harris_reed/ Figure 29 - Image from Youtuber Byron Denton of himself wearing Balenciaga shoes and holding a Prada shopping bag on Instagram (@tbhbyron) - https://www.instagram.com/p/ B4uVh3HA0jO/?igshid=6q6du8intcmq Figure 30 - Balenciaga logo print - https://bureauborsche.com/projects/balenciaga-logo Figure 31 - Screenshot from Turnt Fashion Film 2018 ‘Electric’ directed by Tamas Sabo styled by Gemma M Jones - https://youtu.be/MWi3eKdQgh8 Figure 32 - Screenshot from Young Bloods ‘One Year Closer to Death’ fashion film styled by Katie Madin - https://youtu.be/-dppD1YmLuc Figure 33 - Image of compact mirror - https://www.swisscollc.com/products/swisscollc-com-product-mirrors-standing-vanity-8433 Figure 34 - Image of pink chanel lipstick egited to have no background - https://www.makeupalley.com/product/showreview.asp/ItemId=24593/Hydrabase-Lipstick---Rose-Baby/ CHANEL/Lipstick Figure 35 - Image of pink flower - https://www.pngarts.com/explore/137849 Figure 36 - Image of silver glitter - https://www.hiclipart.com/free-transparent-background-png-clipart-qybgh Figure 37 - Image of wine and wine glass - https://favpng.com/png_view/different-typeswine-grapes-wine-label-sauvignon-blanc-red-wine-bottle-png/L1QA2bzn 74

Figure 38 - Image from Gucci’s Spring Summer 2019 campaign, Gucci Showtime featuring Unia Pakhomova shot by Glen Luchford - https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/spring-summer-2019-advertising-campaign-shoppable Figure 39 - Gucci logo print fabric - https://www.kooboxshop.com/product/gg-gucci-fabric-cotton-grey Figure 40 - Image of Rodarte Spring 2020 Ready-To-Wear featuring Alexa Demie shot by Daria Kobayashi Ritch - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/ rodarte/slideshow/details#9 Figure 41 - Image from Wonderland magazine editorial featuring Lindsey Wixson photographed by Daria Kobayashi Ritch styled by Kate Carnegie - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2020/01/14/lindsey-wixson-winter-issue/ Figure 42 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Saddle Up photographed by Amelia J Dowd styled by Jade Leung - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/02/12/western-pink-fashion-editorial/ Figure 43 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Saddle Up photographed by Amelia J Dowd styled by Jade Leung - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/02/12/western-pink-fashion-editorial/ Figure 44 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Saddle Up photographed by Amelia J Dowd styled by Jade Leung - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/02/12/western-pink-fashion-editorial/ Figure 45 - Image from the Wonderland editorial New Normal photographed by Pawel Herman styled by Kat Ambroziak - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/01/10/new-normal-fashion-editorial/ Figure 46 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Wuthering Heights photographed by Morgan Hill-Murphy styled by Kamran Rajput - https://www.wonderlandmagazine. com/2019/03/28/wuthering-heights-fashion-editorial/ Figure 47 - Image from Pansy magazine editorial Emil featuring Emil Wikström photographed

by Cecilio Barrantes styled by Fatima Ropero - https://www.pansymag.com/emil Figure 48 - Image from Pansy magazine editorial Emil featuring Emil Wikström photographed

by Cecilio Barrantes styled by Fatima Ropero - https://www.pansymag.com/emil Figure 49 - Image from Pansy magazine editorial He’s Wonderland featuring Diogo Schlatter photographed Cheng Po Ou Yang styled by Peggy Chiao - https://www.pansymag.com/ hes-wonderland Figure 50- Image from Pansy magazine editorial He’s Wonderland featuring Diogo Schlatter photographed Cheng Po Ou Yang styled by Peggy Chiao - https://www.pansymag.com/ hes-wonderland 75

Figure 51 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Perfect Day featuring Annie Tice photographed by Rhys Frampton styled by Tona Stell - https://www.wonderlandmagazine. com/2019/03/27/perfect-day-fashion-editorial/ Figure 52 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Perfect Day featuring Annie Tice photographed by Rhys Frampton styled by Tona Stell - https://www.wonderlandmagazine. com/2019/03/27/perfect-day-fashion-editorial/ Figure 53 Head of Croquis : Model of Gucci Fall 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswea Dress of Croquis : Belleflower Gown from Needle and Thread - https://www.needleandthread. com/collections/dresses/products/belleflower-gown-pink-blue Figure 54 Head of Croquis : Model of Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/ludovic-de-saint-sernin/slideshow/collection#7 Dress of Croquis : Wild Rose Ruffle Gown from Neddle and Thread - https://www.needleandthread.com/collections/dresses/products/wild-rose-ruffle-gown-sun-blush Figure 55 Head of Croquis : Model of Givenchy Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/givenchy/slideshow/collection#7 Dress of Croquis : Rose Bud Stripe Gown from Needle and Thread - https://www.needleandthread.com/collections/dresses/products/rose-bud-stripe-gown-champagne Figure 56 Head of Croquis : Model of Givenchy Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/givenchy/slideshow/collection#20 Dress of Croquis : Lilacs Garland Gown from Needle and Thread - https://www.needleandthread.com/collections/dresses/products/lilacs-garland-gown-champagne Figure 57 Head of Croquis : Model of Givenchy Spring 2020 Menswear - https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/givenchy/slideshow/collection#26 Dress of Croquis : Meadow Sequin Gown from Needle and Thread - https://www.needleandthread.com/collections/dresses/products/meadow-sequin-gown-periwinkle-purple Figure 58 - Image from Backstage of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Spring/Summer 2018 by Thang LV - https://www.essentialhommemag.com/lfwm-backstage-charles-jeffrey-loverboy-ss18/ Figure 59 - Image from Backstage of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Spring/Summer 2018 by Lucie Rox - https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23915/25/charles-jeffrey-ss18 Figure 60 - Image from Backstage of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Spring/Summer 2018 by Thang LV - https://www.essentialhommemag.com/lfwm-backstage-charles-jeffrey-loverboy-ss18/ 76

Figure 61 - Image from Backstage of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Spring/Summer 2018 by Lucie Rox - https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/23915/25/charles-jeffrey-ss18 Figure 62 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Bedtime Story featuring Fabio Gamba Espejo photographed by Jo Fetto styled by Gianluca Cococcia - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/06/11/bedtime-story-fashion-editorial/ Figure 63 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Bedtime Story featuring Fabio Gamba Espejo photographed by Jo Fetto styled by Gianluca Cococcia - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/06/11/bedtime-story-fashion-editorial/ Figure 64 - Image from the Wonderland editorial The Princess is Here featuring Manuela Sanchez photographed by Adam Whitehead styled by Toni-Blaze Ibekwe - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/01/25/main-fashion-editorial-winter-18-19/ Figure 65 - Image from the Wonderland editorial The Princess is Here featuring Manuela Sanchez photographed by Adam Whitehead styled by Toni-Blaze Ibekwe - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2019/01/25/main-fashion-editorial-winter-18-19/ Figure 66 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Procrastination photographed by Iolo Lewis Edwards styled by Umar Sarwar - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2017/03/31/editorial-procrastination/ Figure 67 - Image from the Wonderland editorial Procrastination photographed by Iolo Lewis Edwards styled by Umar Sarwar - https://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2017/03/31/editorial-procrastination/ Figure 68 - Image from the Pansy editorial Inside/Outside featuring Daniel Ruenes photographed by David Suårez styled by Alonso Murillo - https://www.pansymag.com/inside-outside Figure 69 Body of Croquis : Screenshot from video of ASOS DESIGN longline long sleeve t-shirt in black open mesh - https://www.asos.com/asos-design/asos-design-longline-long-sleeve-t-shirtin-black-open-mesh/prd/13956967?clr=&colourWayId=16579506&SearchQuery=mesh%20 top Belt of Croquis : Kelvry Women’s Satin Waist Cincher Lace up Boned Bustier Underbust Corset - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Martya-Womens-Cincher-Bustier-Underbust/dp/B07GLSBDT4/ ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=corset&qid=1584039090&sr=8-13 Figure 70 Body of Croquis : ASOS DESIGN longline long sleeve t-shirt in sparkly mesh - https://www.asos. com/asos-design/asos-design-longline-long-sleeve-t-shirt-in-sparkly-mesh/prd/10795781?clr=&colourWayId=16261331&SearchQuery=mesh%20top Belt of Croquis : https://www.asos.com/asos-design/asos-design-corset-waist-belt-withside-tie-up-details-in-black/prd/13350956?clr=&colourWayId=16538350&SearchQuery=corset%20belt 77

Figure 71 Body of Croquis : High Neck Renaissance Print Mesh Long Sleeve Top from Jaded London https://jadedldn.com/collections/tees/products/high-neck-renaissance-print-mesh-longsleeve-top Belt of Croquis : White Corset Waist Belt from New Look - https://www.newlook.com/uk/womens/accessories/belts/white-corset-waist-belt/p/523034210 Figure 72 Body of Croquis : Jaded red and black space game long sleeve mesh top - https://www. asos.com/jaded-london/jaded-red-and-black-space-game-long-sleeve-mesh-top/ prd/14068003?CTAref=We+Recommend+Carousel_12&featureref1=we+recommend+pers Belt of Croquis : ASOS DESIGN chest harness in black faux leather with chains - https://www. asos.com/asos-design/asos-design-chest-harness-in-black-faux-leather-with-chains/ prd/13203322?clr=&colourWayId=16532975&SearchQuery=harness Figure 73 Body of Croquis : ASOS DESIGN long sleeve bodysuit in sparkly mesh - https://www.asos. com/asos-design/asos-design-long-sleeve-bodysuit-in-sparkly-mesh/prd/13354328?CTAref=We+Recommend+Carousel_4&featureref1=we+recommend+pers Belt of Croquis : ASOS DESIGN chest and neck harness in black metallic faux leather - https:// www.asos.com/asos-design/asos-design-chest-and-neck-harness-in-black-metallic-fauxleather/prd/12510744?clr=&colourWayId=16518903&SearchQuery=harness Figure 74 - Image from Charles Jeffrey’s Instagram page @_charlesjeffrey - https://www. instagram.com/p/B7Bc7S9jXdr/ Figure 75 - Image of Matty Bovan in makeup looks he created for Alternative Beauty Day on i-D - https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/bjnbqw/matty-bovans-alternative-beauty-looks Figure 76 - Image of Matty Bovan in makeup looks he created for Alternative Beauty Day on i-D - https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/bjnbqw/matty-bovans-alternative-beauty-looks Figure 77 - Image from Makeup Artist Lucy Bridge’s Instagram @lucyjbridge - https://www. instagram.com/p/B63zi9hHne0/ Figure 78 - Image taken by me featuring a male model in makeup and wedding dress Figure 79 - Image taken by me featuring a male model in makeup and mesh top Back Page Images - Taken by Me featuring close-ups of Artthrob and Euphoric looks

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SHANNON GALLAGHER 1804454 AD5604