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Santa Fe? Your Day Trip Guide to the City Different

Make the O Keeffe part of your Santa Fe experience

georgia o’Keeffe, Black mesa landscape, new mexico / out Back of marie’s ii, 1930. oil on canvas, 24 1/4 x 36 1/4 in. georgia o’Keeffe museum. gift of the burnett Foundation. © georgia o’Keeffe museum.

on view through october 26

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DO YOU KNOW THE WAY TO

ON THE COVER Photos by Gene Peach OWNER Robin Martin PUBLISHER Ginny Sohn EDITOR Ray Rivera EDITORIAL creative director Deborah Villa 505-986-3027 copy editor Kris Ota ADVERTISING advertising director Heidi Melendrez 505-986-3007 marketing director Monica Taylor 505-995-3888 ART DEPARTMENT Elspeth Hilbert, Joan Scholl, Jeana Francis advertising layout Rick Artiaga ADVERTISING SALES retail manager Art Trujillo, 505-995-3852 Vince Torres, 505-995-3830 Mike Flores, 505-995-3840 Wendy Ortega, 505-995-3892 Chris Alexander, 505-995-3852 Robert Harmon, 505-995-3822 Amy Fleeson, 505-995-3844 TECHNOLOGY technology director Michael Campbell PRODUCTION operations director Al Waldron assistant production director Tim Cramer prepress manager Dan Gomez press manager Larry Quintana packaging manager Brian Schultz DISTRIBUTION circulation manager Michael Reichard distribution coordinator Reggie Perez WEB digital development Natalie Guillén www.santafenewmexican.com ADDRESS office: 202 E. Marcy St. hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday advertising information: 505-995-3852 delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 for copies of this magazine, call 505-428-7622 or email rperez@sfnewmexican.com

SANTA FE? Your 2014-15 Day Trip Guide to the City Different

From Albuquerque, take Interstate 25 north for approximately 55 miles. Take exit 278 for Santa Fe’s south side or exit 282 for the Plaza.

Parking map

Signs of the times

Tourist time

Red or green?

48 hours in Santa Fe

Things to do from the Plaza

Things to do map

Breakfast delights

On the town

Gallery districts

Shopping downtown

Spas

South-side shopping

Museums

Santa Fe 7

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H. RAILYARD PARKING Camino de la Familia and Paseo de Peralta Surface parking includes 675 spaces Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Rates: $1/hour

Point of Interest

G. CANYON ROAD LOT 777 Canyon Road Surface lot includes 50 spaces (2 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Lot serviced by pay and display machine Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum

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F. ARCHDIOCESE LOT 251 E. Alameda Street Center for Surface lot includesContempory 174 spaces (5 disabled spaces) Arts Bataan Memorial Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days Military week.Museum Lot serviced with 3 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum Santa Fe Children's (Lot accommodates RVs and buses for an additional fee)

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C. SANTA FE COMMUNITY CONVENTION CENTER 119 S. Federal Place Bi-level underground parking garage includes 522 spaces (13 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **

E. CATHEDRAL LOT 215 Cathedral Place Surface lot includes 172 spaces (7 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced by 2 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum

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B. SANDOVAL GARAGE 216 W. San Francisco Street Multi-level aboveground parking garage includes 404 spaces (8 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **

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D. WATER STREET LOT 100 E. Water Street Surface lot includes 156 spaces (4 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum

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A. RAILYARD GARAGE 503 Camino de la Familia Tri-level underground parking garage includes 404 spaces (15 disabled spaces) Hours: Open daily, 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Rates: $2/hour; $5.00 maximum

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8 Santa Fe

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Parking in downtown Santa Fe

T IA S

BALLOON FIESTA WEEK ACTIVITY SCHEDULE OCTOBEr 4 12 2nd Annual Albuquerque American Indian Arts Festival Saturday & Sunday, October 4 & 5 10am Cellicion Traditional Zuni Dancers 10:30am Tewa Dancers of Ohkay Owingeh 11am Zuni Olla Maidens 12pm Pueblo Throw 1pm Tewa Dancers of Ohkay Owingeh 1:30pm Cellicion Traditional Zuni Dancers 1:30pm Red Threads Native Fashion Show featuring designs by Penny Singer, Warren Montoya and RedWing-Shirley Pino 2pm Zuni Olla Maidens 2:30pm Dinetah Dancers (Dine’) Monday & Tuesday, October 6 & 7 11am Southern Slam Dancers (Zia) 12pm Cachini Dancers (Zuni) 2 pm Southern Slam Dancers (Zia) 3pm Cachini Dancers (Zuni) Architecture Monday, October 6 11am-12pm Friends of IPCC Lecture Series Presents Pueblo Indian Homes by Rina Swentzell, Ph.D. (Santa Clara) Wednesday & Thursday, October 8 & 9 11am Red Turtle Dancers (Pojoaque) 12pm Hopi Reed Clan (Hopi & San Ildefonso) 2pm Red Turtle Dancers (Pojoaque) 3pm Hopi Reed Clan (Hopi & San Ildefonso) Friday, Saturday & Sunday, October 10, 11, & 12 11am Haaku Buffalo Dancers (Acoma) 12 pm White Mountain Apache Crown Dancers 2 pm Haaku Buffalo Dancers (Acoma) 3 pm White Mountain Apache Crown Dancers Saturday & Sunday, October 11 & 12 11am Shumakolowa Native Arts Presents Reading & booksigning at Shumakolowa Native Arts By Max Early, Laguna potter who will read from his new book, Ears of Corn: Listen Santa Fe 9

Art demonstrations both days by Navajo weaver, Mona Laughing, Taos glass sculptor, Ira Lujan, Kewa cartoonist, Ricardo Cate

Signs of the times BY EMILY DRABANSKI

Whether this is your first trip to the Land of Enchantment or you’ve lived here all your life, now is the perfect time to learn more about some of our state’s official symbols.

State Aircraft | Hot Air Balloon

In March 2005, hot air balloons were designated the state aircraft. If you ever have the opportunity to float above Santa Fe in one of these, you’ll definitely know you’re not in Kansas anymore.

WILLIAM ROTSAERT

State Bird | The Greater Roadrunner

The Legislature adopted the greater roadrunner as the state bird in March 1949.

State Mammal | American Black Bear

If you’re camping in the area, make sure your food is secured in a bear-proof place. Otherwise, you might encounter our state mammal, the American black bear, adopted in February 1963. One of the country’s most famous bears, Smokey Bear, was a cub that survived a fire downstate in New Mexico’s Lincoln County National Forest. Smokey Bear became a popular symbol of the U.S. Forest Service. He’s buried in Smokey Bear State Park in Capitán, near Ruidoso.

State Necktie | Bolo Tie

New Mexico Legislature proclaimed the bolo the official state tie in 2007.

State Question | Red or Green?

If you order an enchilada, don’t be surprised if your server asks, “Red or green?” — a question that refers to your choice of chile. The state Legislature made the question official in 1996 in recognition of the state’s most important cash crop. If, after being asked the state question, you can’t decide what you want, just give a popular local answer — “Christmas” — and your server will soon bring you an enchilada covered in both red and green.

State Cookie | Bizcochito

New Mexico was the first state to adopt an official cookie, and it chose the bizcochito in 1989. Anise and a bit of brandy give this sugar cookie a special zing, and locals swear it does not have authentic flavor unless it’s made with lard. Bizcochitos are a favorite dessert at family celebrations, especially during winter holiday season.

State Capitol | The Roundhouse

The state can boast having both the newest and oldest state Capitol building. Folks affectionately call the newest Capitol “the Roundhouse.” Dedicated in 1966, it has a round center that has been modified with four spokes that evoke the shape of the Zia sun symbol, which can be seen emblazoned in red on the state flag. 10 Santa Fe

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Map

PHOTOS GENE PEACH

Downtown Santa Fe

Tourist time

Getting going is easier than you think

Santa Fe Plaza

You’re here and you’re eager to get started. So much Santa Fe and so little time. But Santa Fe is about nothing if not time — with more than 400 years of living, it’s a place to relax. Still, there’s a fine line between exploring the unexpected and wasting time wandering. Here are some tips to help make the most of your vacation and get you where you want to go. For starters, there is the Bienvenidos welcome booth right outside the First National Bank on the Santa Fe Plaza. Volunteers can offer directions, answer questions and give you a few tips. The state of New Mexico also runs a visitors center, as does the City of Santa Fe. Both are close to the Plaza. Signs posted all over downtown are easy to read and will help even the most confused tourist find his way to the miraculous staircase or the oldest church (Loretto Chapel and San Miguel Mission, respectively). Few signs direct folks to bathrooms — but here’s an insider tip: The Santa Fe Public Library (Washington Avenue and Marcy Street) is open seven days a week, is a great Santa Fe 13

place to sit for a spell, read a magazine or use the free Wi-Fi — and it offers restrooms on both floors. Alternatively, who doesn’t want to spend an hour or so enjoying a drink and the free Wi-Fi at one of the many hotel bars or coffee shops near downtown? Do that, and you’re right next to more convenient bathrooms. Naturally, the Plaza is a must-see, where in addition to shopping, tourists and locals enjoy just hanging out. Get an ice cream cone, grab a patch of grass and watch the world go by before heading off to one of Santa Fe’s great museums, intriguing art galleries or fine dining establishments. Don’t forget to buy a piece of authentic Indian art from one of the many artists who show underneath the portal at the Plaza of the Governors — that’s a uniquely Santa Fe experience.

Best bets for getting around • The Santa Fe Visitor Center is in the Santa

Fe Community Convention Center at 201 W. Marcy St. For tourist information,

call 800-777-2489 or 955-6200. Or, visit www.santafe.org. • The state tourist information office, 491 Old Santa Fe Trail, is well-stocked with all sorts of statewide tourism information. Call 827-7336 or visit www.newmexico.org. • Take a train ride. The Santa Fe Southern Railway train to Lamy is a much-loved attraction (www.sfsr.com) with special event and scenic rides. You get on at the Santa Fe Depot in the Railyard District (see the website for directions). • Also at the Santa Fe Depot is the New Mexico Rail Runner Express (www. nmrailrunner.com). It’s the train you can take for a day trip to Albuquerque, to the airport or just for the fun of seeing a modern commuter railroad in action. • Remember the Santa Fe Pick-Up, a free shuttle service with stops at the Santa Fe Depot and around town. For stops and schedules, visit www.santafenm.gov/santa_ fe_pickup_shuttle.

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Santa Fe 15

Red or Green?

Chile, not chili, is a New Mexico treasure

The scent that most intoxicates New Mexicans is the late-summer aroma of roasting chile. Ecstasy starts with the first faint whiff and, fortunately, continues through the winter as we enjoy the fruit of this remarkable plant. New Mexico produces more chile than any other state, accounting for 60 percent of all chile production in the United States. We have such a love affair with chile that we have named it the official state vegetable. Incidentally, New Mexico chile dishes bear no resemblance to the Texas state dish called “chili.” New Mexico even has a chile-related official state question, one heard at almost any restaurant: “Red or green?” That original question usually prompts two questions from visitors. The first is, “What is the difference?” Red chile is simply ripened green chile. In terms of flavor, think of the difference between ripened and younger fruit. The other question visitors ask is, “Which is hotter?” Folklore on that subject abounds, but the truth is that you do have to ask. Which is hotter can vary from restaurant to restaurant, chef to chef and even from one crop of chile to another. Genetics and environmental factors determine a chile’s heat. Stresses such as high temperatures result in a hotter chile. Environmental factors also influence flavor, just as grapes grown in different regions affect the bouquet of the resulting wine. A chile variety grown in Hatch, in the southern

part of the state, takes on a very different flavor than crops grown in Northern New Mexico or in California. Some of the best chile comes from Chimayó, where farmers have been growing heirloom varieties for generations. New Mexico has ideal growing conditions for producing some of the most flavorful chile: warm days and cool nights, intense high-altitude sunlight and consistent winds. Most New Mexicans would counter that there is no such thing as too much chile. Examples abound of chile’s integral place in New Mexico’s culture: family recipes handed down for generations, East Coast friends who eagerly await their Christmas “care” packages and college students writing a two-word plea for families to “send chile.” Chile, along with plants such as tomato, potato, tobacco and petunia, is a member of the nightshade family and is botanically a fruit. It is, however, considered a vegetable when green and a spice when it is red and dried. A green chile pod contains up to six times more vitamin C than an orange. That diminishes with cooking or drying, but a ripened red chile pod contains twice the vitamin A of a carrot — just a half-tablespoon meets the minimum daily requirement.

16 Santa Fe

— ARIN MCKENNA PHOTO KITTY LEAKEN

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Santa Fe 17

Loretto Chapel

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HOURS IN SANTA FE

BY SOPHIE ROUSMANIERE

With just 48 hours in Santa Fe, how to see and do as much as possible? Here’s a quick guide to packing in as much fun as possible. After you’re done, perhaps you’ll need a third day to recover. However long you’re here, enjoy!

DAY ONE

Breakfast at the historic La Fonda Hotel, 100 E. San Francisco St., where the hand-painted windows in the dining room brighten the morning. Drive north on U.S. 285 toward Taos for a hike at Tsankawi, part of Bandelier National Monument, to see petroglyphs and ancient cave dwellings. (From U.S. 285, take N.M. 502 toward Los Alamos, then to N.M. 4; Tsankawi is on the left side of the road. It’s about a 40-minute drive.) Next, head back to U.S. 285 and keep on until Española, where you will turn right on N.M. 76 toward the village of Chimayó. This takes about 30 or so minutes, so plan on lunch.

First, stop at El Santuario de Chimayó, the famed church that draws thousands of pilgrims each year. Lunch at Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante (505-351-4444). After lunch, relax with a drive to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort and Spa, a great place to linger. It’s about a 50-minute drive from Chimayó, through Española. Once in town, take Paseo de Oñate (across the river from the main drag) out of Española and turn right at County Road 55/U.S. 285 and continue on U.S. 285 to Ojo (1-800222-9162). It’s about 50 minutes back to Santa Fe, and if you time it just right, you’ll make it back in time to walk along Canyon Road, where every Friday night, galleries are the place to be. Even if you’re too thrashed to take an art walk, try to stroll Canyon Road during the day. For dinner, tapas at El Farol (505983-9912), one of Santa Fe’s most historic restaurants. There’s live music and dancing most nights, too.

18 Santa Fe

Shidoni Foundry

DAY TWO

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture

Start the day with a trip to The Teahouse on Canyon Road, 821 Canyon Road. Try black rice oatmeal with whipped sweet cream, and choose from among the hundreds of teas. From there, head over to Museum Hill and stop by the Museum of International Folk Art, where you’ll find an incredible collection of folk art from around the globe. Also on Museum Hill: Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and, nearby on Camino Lejo, Museum of Spanish Colonial Art and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian. You can grab a bite to eat at the Museum Café or lunch in town. Down from Museum Hill, head out Bishops Lodge Road to the Shidoni Foundry (five miles north of the Santa Fe Plaza). On Saturdays, you can tour the metalsmithing shop and watch a “pour.” Other days, just shop and enjoy the sculpture garden. It’s a great place for kids to play. Continue on Bishops Lodge Road and enjoy Tesuque Village Market, at Bishops Lodge Road and N.M. 519 junction. There’s plenty to eat and the occasional celebrity to see. Return to town, and enjoy some time around the Plaza. There’s Loretto Chapel,

207 Old Santa Fe Trail, a small church built in the 1870s with its miraculous spiral staircase. Other churches in the area are San Miguel Mission, 401 Old Santa Fe Trail, and the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, 131 Cathedral Place. Staying downtown offers the chance to visit more museums, too. The Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, Palace of the Governors, New Mexico History Museum, Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and the New Mexico Museum of Art all are in walking distance of the Plaza. Also around the Plaza you can find great buys on Western goodies, selections from area Native artists (you have to stop under the portal at the Palace) as well as contemporary selections. Grab a cone at Häagen-Dazs on the Plaza, or walk a block more on San Francisco Street and hoist a beer at Evangelo’s, 200 W. San Francisco St. For a casual finish, enjoy dinner at the Cowgirl, 319 S. Guadalupe St., where you can enjoy live music and shoot pool. In an elegant mood? Check out what’s playing at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W. San Francisco St., www.lensic.org. With the night over, your 48 hours are done. It’s time to start planning your next trip to Santa Fe!

Santa Fe 19

Things to do walking from the PLAZA BY DANIEL GIBSON | PHOTOS GENE PEACH

Santa Fe’s central Plaza has been attracting visitors and traders since the early 1600s and today is often the first place tourists seek out, only to stand around and say, “Now what?” But indeed they have come to the right place to begin their exploration of the City Different. From the Plaza, a wide range of activities and attractions are within only a few minutes walk, from historic and cultural museums to art galleries, acclaimed restaurants and specialty shops selling all manner of hard-to-find apparel, home furnishings, arts and crafts and more. Sampling the goods could occupy days, but even an afternoon or a few hours can provide memorable experiences and an insight into this remarkable town — one of the more sophisticated yet still down-to-earth locales in the nation. Here’s a brief guide to top attractions and activities. (All phone number area codes are 505.)

Loretto Chapel

207 Old Santa Fe Trail, 982-0092, www.lorettochapel.com Beautiful, intricate and graceful small chapel with iconic spiraling wood staircase. Admission.

Palace of the Governors/History Museum

105 W. Palace Ave., 476-5100, www.palaceofthegovernors.org Built circa 1610, this is the oldest seat of government in the U.S. and today is part of the state History Museum. Indian vendors sell authentic, handmade arts and crafts under its portal that faces the Plaza. An excellent gift shop featuring made-in-New Mexico arts and regional books. Admission fee. 20 Santa Fe

New Mexico Museum of Art

107 W. Palace Ave., 476-5072, www.nmartmuseum.org Perhaps the finest collection of art between the East and West Coasts graces this building, which launched the Pueblo revival architectural style of Santa Fe. Be sure to see the permanent collection of early Santa Fe and Taos masters. It also includes a fine gift shop. Admission fee.

Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

217 Johnson St., 946-1001, www.okeeffemuseum.org The work of New Mexico’s most famed artist will dazzle you with its simple power of form, subject and color, often displayed in intelligent shows that reveal her influences on other artists, and the things that influenced her. Admission fee.

The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

131 Cathedral Place, 982-5619, www.cbsfa.org This quiet enclave in busy downtown is a showcase for sacred art. Tucked into its northeast corner is an older chapel that houses Santa Fe’s beloved devotional figurine of La Conquistadora, whose intercession — it is said — led to the reoccupation of Santa Fe by the Catholic Hispanics following the Pueblo Revolt. Free.

Canyon Road

Nicknamed the “art and soul” of Santa Fe, Canyon Road is a feast for the eyes, with its mix of quaint small homes, unique shops, gardens and an astounding array of art galleries. You can catch a trolley that takes you to the top of the road at its intersection with Palace Avenue and stroll down. Or begin at its bottom (at Paseo de Peralta) and walk up as far as your legs will take you.

River Walk

To stretch your legs beneath a canopy of colorful fall cottonwoods, stroll along the lovely landscaped Santa Fe River on a well-maintained trail. It runs for miles up and down the riverside.

Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

108 Cathedral Place, 983-8900, www.iaia.edu/museum The largest collection of contemporary Indian art in the world is found within this historic landmark structure. Always something of interest can be found here, as well as in its terrific small gift shop featuring select handmade Native arts. Admission fee.

Cross of the Martyrs

Another nice stroll takes one up a stairway to a point overlooking downtown and the distant Jemez Mountains to the west — an excellent spot to watch sunset. The large cross commemorates the Franciscan friars killed in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. Free.

Plaza Shopping & Dining

Within a few blocks of the Plaza are dozens of excellent places to dine and many shops, art galleries and boutiques. Restaurants include The Shed (for classic New Mexican cuisine), Casa Sena (for upscale, exquisite meals), the Plaza Café (diner style), The Thunderbird Bar & Grill (for food and drinks overlooking the Plaza), Draft Station (for pizza and craft brews), and La Fonda (several dining options and drinks in its Bell Tower with stunning sunset views). For more information on the museums see page 40. Santa Fe 21

Gr iff in

Things to do walking from the PLAZA

Georgia Oâ€™Keeffe Museum Joh

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River Walk

Galist

San

Santa Fe Railyard Shopping, & Dining Manh

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attan

22 Santa Fe

Wa s

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Cross of the Palace Martyrs of the Governors Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

oln

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Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

Plaza

Pala

Don G

aspar

ate

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Linc

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hing

New Mexico Museum of Art Mar

ton

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O ld S a n ta F e T ra il

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A la m e d a

Loretto Chapel

San Miguel Mission

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nyo

Canyon Road Stroll

FINE SHOPPING & DINING

Bodhi Bazaar • Cost Plus World Market • Dell Fox Jewelry • Eidos Contemporary Jewelry • El Tesoro Cafe Get It Together • Kioti • Mercedes Isabel Velarde Fine Jewelry and Art • On Your Feet • On Your Little Feet Op. Cit. Bookstore • Pandora’s • Pranzo Italian Gril • Raaga Restaurant • Ristra • Rock Paper Scissor Salon Spa Santa Fe Pens • Teca Tu - A Paws Worthy Pet Emporium

In the Historic Railyard District

5 0 0 M O N T E Z U M A AV E N U E • 5 0 5 . 8 2 0 . 9 9 1 9 • S A N TA F E 24 Santa Fe

PHOTOS KITTY LEAKEN

Chorizo burrito, Café Pasqual’s

Breakfast delights

Pie for breakfast at the Plaza Café

Starting the day with a good meal is easy in Santa Fe. Many popular breakfast spots are also prime places for people watching. That’s certainly the case at the venerable Plaza Café, one of Santa Fe’s oldest dining spots, which has been in the same location right on the Plaza since 1905. A frequent request at the Plaza is huevos rancheros, a dish with fried or scrambled eggs, on a corn tortilla smothered in chile, cheese and beans and served with hash browns. The Plaza makes its own pastries, which are served all day long. Their apple pecan pie cajeta incorporates caramel made from goat milk, giving it a distinct flavor. Café Pasqual’s, which has been at the same location on Don Gaspar Avenue for 35 years, has as its motto “Panza llena, corazón contento” (full stomach, happy heart). It serves up some exotic variations of traditional dishes inspired by owner Katharine Kagel’s travels. Pasqual’s uses organic eggs and Niman Ranch naturally raised beef and pork and makes the sausage and chorizo on the premises. Santa Fe 25

If you go Plaza Café

54 Lincoln St. (on the Plaza), 982-1664 www.thefamousplazacafe.com

Café Pasqual’s

121 Don Gaspar Ave., 983-9340 or 1-800-722-7672, www.pasquals.com

La Plazuela Restaurant at La Fonda Santa Fe

100 E. San Francisco St., 995-2334 www.lafondasantafe.com

French Pastry Shop

100 E. San Francisco St., 983-6697 www.thefrenchpastryshop.com

Tía Sophia’s Café Pasqual’s

210 W. San Francisco St., 983-9880 See their Facebook page.

Favorite offerings range from huevos barbacoa for meat lovers to huevos motuleños for vegetarians, to smoked trout hash, whole-wheat pancakes, cheese blintzes, fruit or hot cereal. The Durango omelet features organic ham, jack cheese, field mushrooms and guacamole and is topped with either green chile or salsa. Kagel recommends the “house-made chile rellenos, tender egg and omelet style on roasted tomato salsa.” The popular Pasqual’s favorite offers two whole-wheat pancakes, two large organic eggs with a choice of applewood smoked bacon, sausage, turkey bacon or house-made chorizo. It’s a plethora of choices, and reservations are recommended. The La Plazuela Restaurant at La Fonda offers eggs Benedict, huevos rancheros, burritos, custom omelets, fruit smoothies and pan-fried trout. The lovingly restored indoor courtyard setting is one of La Plazuela’s best offerings. Nearby (you can enter from La Fonda) is the French Pastry Shop on East San Francisco Street, which offers tantalizing fruit-filled crepes and chocolate croissants. Heartier fare includes egg, ham, and cheese or chorizo crepes, quiche Lorraine with ham, bacon and spinach and torte Milanese with ham, Swiss cheese, red bell peppers and spinach, all inside a pastry crust. It’s a breakfast that can either be sweet and light or more filling to take you through a day of walking and sightseeing. Another downtown favorite is Tía Sophia’s, which has won prizes for its classic breakfast burrito. “It’s a pretty hefty meal,” said owner Nick Maryol. The basic burrito can be filled with a choice of bacon, sausage, ham or fried bologna, a surprisingly popular choice. It is smothered with chile and cheese on top but eggs are optional, as Maryol thinks their flavor often gets lost among the other ingredients. Customers also love Tía’s green-chile stew, served every day for breakfast and lunch. One of the restaurant’s most popular dishes is the Atrisco plate, which is two eggs plus green-chile stew, served with a tortilla. Homemade chorizo burritos are served on Saturdays, Sundays and Tuesdays. We’ve picked restaurants close to downtown to make it easy to get an early start to your sightseeing. And believe us, there are even more! — FLO BARNES

26 Santa Fe

Santa Fe 27

28 Santa Fe

On the town

Plenty of nightlife to while away the evenings Barhopping in Santa Fe can reveal hidden gems and land a person in interesting conversations. Although we don’t have the nightlife of a big city, we definitely have a variety of options. All of the spots below are within walking distance of the Plaza.

Cowgirl BBQ

319 S. Guadalupe St. 982-2565 www.cowgirlsantafe.com The Cowgirl is a classic with great Western decor, a rustic vibe and friendly staff. With an upbeat and eclectic crowd, pool hall, live music and good food, it’s a great place to meet people. Plus, it’s relatively inexpensive. Bands play nightly except Mondays, when there is a karaoke free-for-all.

The Den Cowgirl BBQ

132 W. Water St. 983-1615 www.thedensantafe.com With handcrafted gourmet cocktails and contemporary decor, the Den transforms into a DJ’d dance scene in the latenight hours.

Del Charro Saloon

El Farol

101 W. Alameda St. 954-0320 www.delcharro.com Del Charro has the cheapest bar food in town. It is good for an afternoon drink, on into the evening and is a popular place for locals to gather. It can get crowded at night, but wait a minute and a table will open. There are TVs for sports buffs and a cozy yet high-energy saloon style.

Dragon Room, The Pink Adobe

El Paseo Bar & Grill

406 Old Santa Fe Trail 983-7712 www.thepinkadobe.com/ dragonroom.php The Dragon Room is classic Santa Fe, with a feel of being home in the living room only with more folks around. In addition to drinks, there’s simple but good food available. On Fridays, there’s generally live music. Think comfortable.

Santa Fe 29

El Farol

808 Canyon Road, 983-9912 www.elfarolsf.com The oldest bar in Santa Fe, El Farol has live music every night, from folk and bluegrass to flamenco, jazz and rock. Tuesdays, Santa Fe’s blues crowd busts out in a freestyle jam. El Farol hosts an older crowd that is young at heart. With yummy tapas, plenty of late-night dancing and seating outside.

El Paseo Bar & Grill

208 Galisteo St., 992-2848 It’s a jazz club, a sports bar, blues club, and a place where you can check out local and traveling musicians, with music beginning at 9 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday. Pub fare is served and TVs are on for hot sports nights.

Evangelo’s

200 W. San Francisco St. 982-9014 Evangelo’s is known for its strong cocktails, late nights and good rock ‘n’ roll. It’s grungy and dark, with a mixed but still youthful crowd. It’s a good place to finish your evening.

Skylight

139 W. San Francisco St. 982-0775 www.skylightsantafe.com Enjoy nightly live bands and DJs in this spacious new downtown spot, which features three full bars, a full dinner menu and a daily happy hour menu from 5-7 p.m.

Vanessie of Santa Fe

434 W. San Francisco St. 982-9966 This classy Santa Fe piano bar caters to an older crowd with elegant decor and good food. The piano players have an established following. Here you’ll find interesting art, good food and a mellow atmosphere.

T HE AR T S H OW N OT-TO - MI SS T HI S FALL

Origami

in the Garden Sculpture Exhibition by Kevin Box O N D I S P L AY U N T I L O C T O B E R 2 5 Santa Fe Botanical Garden at Museum Hill 715 Camino Lejo | Open Everyday, 9amâ€“5pm

Painted Ponies

W W W. S A N TA F E B O TA N I C A L G A R D E N . O R G 30 Santa Fe

471-9103

KITTY LEAKEN

Mark Sublette Medicine Man Gallery

Gallery districts You’ve arrived in Santa Fe, a city so steeped in art that you need a map, a compass, a plan and stamina. One way to avoid sensory overload is to take a Zen approach. Go slowly. Pay attention. Take small bites. Try these suggestions for ways to experience the art districts that draw people from around the globe.

CANYON ROAD LESS TRAVELED Welcome to the banquet of more than 100 galleries, studios and boutiques in the historic Canyon Road arts district. Any place is the right place to start. Begin at the bottom corner of Canyon Road, at Paseo de Peralta, with Hunter Kirkland Contemporary. Owner Nancy Hunter, who has been in the art business for 35 years, looks for art that can “soothe, stimulate, excite and inspire.” Across the street, find parking for a selection of galleries, outdoor sculpture settings, clothing and home accessories stores. Not far up Canyon Road to the left, intimate galleries dot little Delgado Street. Beginning at the 600 block, the elegant

Mark Sublette Medicine Man Gallery (with parking!) and sculpture garden sits amid private homes. The beautiful, sun-washed compound was developed by artist Agnes Sims in the 1940s. In Gypsy Alley (700 block), the connected adobe buildings of the Chiaroscuro Contemporary Art span centuries, melding traditional Santa Fe style with architecture as open and contemporary as the art exhibited. Across Canyon Road, the signs for The Compound Restaurant are clear, but it takes some hunting to find Bellas Artes gallery. Follow the signs to The Compound to the lone gallery on this side road where paper, porcelain and textile extend common definitions to become museum-quality objects. Between the 600 and 700 block, down an unpaved alley on the right, Canyon Alley offers a mixture of styles, including the outsider art of Kelly Moore. Stroll down the dirt lane for Nordwall Gallery & Studio. At the top of Canyon Road, in The Stables at 821, small artist studios congregate in the former stables of the Vigil family next to the Teahouse.

Santa Fe 31

ATTEND THE GALA

Fresh and contemporary, nine galleries stand in the newly organized GALA district (Galleries at Lincoln Avenue) between the Plaza and West Marcy Street. At the Plaza end of Lincoln, the gorgeous New Mexico History Museum houses the Spiegelberg Shop, specializing in living New Mexican artisans. Galleries in the district include Allan Houser Gallery, Legends Santa Fe, Niman Fine Art, Windsor Betts, and DR Contemporary. Blue Rain Gallery offers a decidedly current counterpoint, focusing primarily on Native American and New Mexican artists working in pottery, bronzes, paintings, jewelry and glass.

VISIT THE PALACE

Within walking distance of GALA, ancient meets modern at the intersection of the West Palace arts district (Palace Avenue west of the Plaza) and the Palace of the Governors, where Indian artists set out their beautifully crafted jewelry and pottery under the portal. The West Palace arts district includes the New Mexico Museum of Art as well as

the Museum of New Mexico Foundation, the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, and Manitou and Sugarman-Peterson galleries. Patina Gallery owner/artists Allison and Ivan Barnett present fine craft, primarily 21st-century jewelers whose nontraditional jewelry dances between the lines of wearable art and sculpture.

HEAR THAT TRAIN A’ COMIN’

The Santa Fe Railyard district, opened in 2008, is home to modern international contemporary art venues and includes many galleries — including Charlotte Jackson Fine Art, David Richard, James Kelly Contemporary, Santa Fe Clay, Jay Etkin, William Siegal, Tai, Zane Bennett Contemporary Art, Evoke Contemporary and LewAllen galleries — and SITE Santa Fe, a renowned, contemporary-arts exhibition and programming space. In addition to the formal galleries, open-air art booths appear on weekends along the rails across the road from the indoor/outdoor Santa Fe Farmers Market and Railyard Artisans Market. — BETH SURDUT

223 W. San Francisco St. RealDealCollection.com (505)795-5979

32 Santa Fe

WINTER INDIAN MARKET® NOV 29-30, 2014 Santa Fe Community Convention Center

WINTER Indian Market

S O U T H W E S T E R N A S S O C I AT I O N F O R I N D I A N A R T S

santafeindianmarket.com • facebook.com/swaia • 505.983.5220 Santa Fe 33

Shopping

PHOTOS KERRY SHERCK

When you’re looking for that perfect little something —for a special gift or a personal treat — Santa Fe’s downtown shops can’t be beat. These choices prove that a satisfying indulgence doesn’t have to break the bank.

Curiosa

718 Canyon Road 988-2420 Rusty bird silhouettes, Black-capped Chickadee, $13 (stump not included)

Leslie Flynt

225 Canyon Road 955-9901 www.leslieflynt.com 3-piece teak nested bowls, $25

Curiosa

Driftwood quotes, $7 (prices vary according to wood size)

ChocolateSmith

851 Cerrillos Road 473-2111 www.chocolatesmith.com Backpacker’s Pocket Pate, $9.95

Maya

108 Galisteo St. 989-7590 www.mayasantafe.com Tiny, recycled tin cars and trucks, made in Madagascar, $5.25 each

34 Santa Fe

Explore history

Where it happened

(

CoroNado historic site

At the ruins of a village called Kuaua, Coronado Historic Site tells the story of the first sustained contact between Europeans and Native Americans in New Mexico. In 1540, Spanish explorer Francisco Vasquez de Coronado came searching for the fabled Seven Cities of Gold. Instead he found a prosperous people with a rich cultural heritage of their own. Coronadoâ€™s expedition changed the course of history in New Mexico forever. Learn about the impact of his entrada, visit the Painted Kiva, and view rare 500-year-old kiva murals.

Santa Fe 35

From I-25, Exit 242 take US Highway 550 1.7 miles west to Kuaua Road. 505-867-5351 Open 8:30am - 5pm Wednesday through Monday. Closed Tuesdays. Admission is $3 for adults. Children 16 and under are free. NM seniors with ID are free on Wednesdays and all NM residents are free on Sundays. nmhistoricsites.org

Fall warmers

Santa Fe spas offer luxurious perfection There is no better time for a feel-good spa treatment than now. Luckily, Santa Fe’s spas are getting ever more creative about their rejuvenation potential, from a spa pedicure in a NASA-designed, zero-gravity chair to a high-tech natural face-lift. Almost every spa we visited features new treatments plus master-level massage therapists.

Inn and Spa at Loretto

211 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-984-7997 www.innatloretto.com “The spa is an intimate, elegant sanctuary for healing,” said spa director Suzanne Chavez. Environment: The spa features pendant lighting and chandeliers, honey-colored pine flooring and fireplaces; the white candles flickering everywhere make for a romantic, calming haven. Range of treatments: Massages, wraps, astrology, cranial sacral work, facials, manicures, pedicures and the Heels Over Head Ritual — couple’s foot massage and reflexology.

Inn and Spa at Loretto

Absolute Nirvana

106 E. Faithway St., 505-983-7942 www.absolutenirvana.com A Balinese-style spa with custom-made scrubs and masks created from natural spices and plants. “Nothing out of a jar,” said owner Caroline Lee. Environment: Treatment rooms at this downtown spa come with paisley robes, sarongs, red sheets and towels, candles and concrete flooring with radiant heat. Range of treatments: Massages, facials, deluxe treatments that usually combine massage, body mask and exfoliating scrub.

Nidah Spa at the Eldorado Hotel

309 W. San Francisco St., 995-4535 www.eldoradohotel.com Selected by Premier Traveler as one of the world’s 10 best spas, Nidah Spa offers ultra-pampering with a 24k-gold facial, inspired by its golden mythical namesake city. Environment: Enter the elegant, serene and golden-hued lobby, sip hot tea or fruit-infused water in the peaceful relaxation room and surrender 36 Santa Fe

Absolute Nirvana

completely in the softly lit treatment rooms. It’s the perfect retreat from a busy world. Range of treatments: Massages, facials, scrubs, wraps, and hair and nail services. Use of the rooftop pool and hot tub, fitness center, steam room and sauna are complimentary with any scheduled appointment.

Ten Thousand Waves

3451 Hyde Park Road, 505-982-9304 www.tenthousandwaves.com Japanese-style spa where everything is authentic — the woodwork, the minimalist decor. Environment: An indoor-outdoor aesthetic constructed of such hardwoods as cherry, maple and Western red cedar. Treatment rooms have windows looking out onto pine trees. Range of treatments: Outdoor hot tubs, cold plunges, massage, salt glow and herbal wraps, facials, peels.

Nidah Spa at the Eldorado Hotel

BODY

333 Cordova Road, 505-986-0362 ext. 2 www.bodyofsantafe.com Environment: The dimly lit spa is mostly decorated in shades of gray, with water fountain, rocks and an overall Asian vibe. Range of treatments: Facials, natural face-lift, massages, scrubs and add-on enhancements (such as reflexology, scalp massage, and brow and lash tinting).

La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and Spa

330 E. Palace Ave., 505-954-9630 www.laposadadesantafe.com Full-service luxury resort spa; recipient of Best Spa honor on the Discovery Channel’s Best of New Mexico special. Environment: Clean and contemporary with chaise lounges, tree-trunk coffee tables, wallmounted water fountains and wall sconces. Range of treatments: Massages, wraps, facials, waxing, lash and brow tinting, manicures, pedicures, hair and makeup. — WOLF SCHNEIDER

Santa Fe 37

Ten Thousand Waves

South-side shopping

BY KRIS OTA

Santa Fe’s south side continues to develop, and the shopping opportunities are keeping pace. In many ways, south-side shops make this thriving area tick, supplying everything from daily necessities to entertainment. Santa Fe Place (4250 Cerrillos Road) is the largest indoor mall in Northern New Mexico, housing over 70 businesses, including department stores, a number of boutiques, shoe stores and salons, plus the requisite food court — including Santa Fe’s only Dairy Queen. Across Rodeo Road find restaurants — including El Merendero (Posa’s), a locals’ favorite spot for tamales — a grocery store and enough big box stores to dress your family and supply all your pet, electronic, home-furnishing and crafting needs. Take Zafarano Drive across busy Cerrillos Road and find Regal Stadium 14, Santa Fe’s largest multiplex theater (yes, that’s 14 separate screening rooms), plus stores featuring spa treatments, home-improvement and natural foods. There are also several good restaurants. Try Tribes Coffeehouse, which has a diverse and delicious menu, or Cleopatra Café, specializing in Middle Eastern cuisine, if you’re in need of refueling. Farther south on Cerrillos Road, just off I-25 (exit 278), find Fashion Outlets Santa Fe (8380 Cerrillos Road), the only outlet mall in New Mexico, where you’ll find designer fashions at bargain prices. 38 Santa Fe

Chinese & Japanese

Online order available

www.santafeasianrestaurant.com 2400 Cerrillos Road Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505 (College Plaza)

Tel: 505-983-3600/1331

Only Chinese, Japanese Buffet in Town Seafood Buffet on Weekend - $11.99

Delivery

$13 Min. Order, 5 Miles Radius Regular Menu Available Daily Restaurant Hours Buffet Hours Sun-Thurs: 11:00am–9:30pm Mon-Thurs: 11:00am–2:30pm Fri-Sat: 11:00am–10:00pm Fri-Sat: 11:00am–8:30pm Open 7 Day a Week Lunch Menu Available 7 Days Sake, Wine & Beer Santa Fe 39

Museums Georgia Oâ€™Keeffe Museum

217 Johnson St., 505-946-1000 www.okeeffemuseum.org HOURS: Sunday-Thursday & Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. (Memorial Day-Halloween, open daily at 9 a.m.) ADMISSION: General $12; New Mexico residents $6 (first Friday of the month, FREE); seniors (60+) and students (18+) w/ID $10; military and law enforcement $6; youth (17 and under) FREE.

Museum of Contemporary Native Arts

108 Cathedral Place, 505-983-8900 www.iaia.edu/museum HOURS: Monday & Wednesday-Saturday (closed Tuesday), 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday, noon-5 p.m. ADMISSION: General $10; seniors (62+), students w/ ID and New Mexico residents $5; members, Native people, veterans and families, youth (16 and under), and New Mexico residents on Sunday FREE.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture

Museum Hill, 710 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-476-1250 www.indianartsandculture.org WINTER HOURS: Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. SUMMER HOURS (May through October): Daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ADMISSION: General $9; New Mexico residents $6; FREE on Sunday. Museum members and youth (16 and under) FREE.

Museum of International Folk Art

Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-476-1200 www.internationalfolkart.org WINTER HOURS (November through April): Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. SUMMER HOURS (May through October): Daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ADMISSION: General $9; New Mexico residents w/ ID $6, FREE on Sunday. Youth (16 and under) and foundation members FREE. New Mexico resident seniors (60+) w/ID FREE on Wednesday.

Museum of Spanish Colonial Art

Museum Hill, 750 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-982-2226 www.spanishcolonial.org/museum WINTER HOURS (Labor Day through Memorial Day): Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. SUMMER HOURS: Daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ADMISSION: General $5; youth (16 and under) FREE. New Mexico residents on Sunday FREE.

New Mexico History Museum 113 Lincoln Ave., 505-476-5200 www.nmhistorymuseum.org

Palace of the Governors

105 West Palace Ave., 505-476-5100 www.palaceofthegovernors.org HOURS: Tuesday-Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (Friday, from May through October, until 8 p.m.) (Also open Monday, Memorial Day through October.) ADMISSION: General $9. Tickets include access to the Palace, New Mexico History Museum and Palace Print Shop. New Mexico residents $6 and

FREE on Sunday. New Mexico seniors (60+) FREE on Wednesday. Youth (16 and under) and museum members FREE. Friday evening (May through October), 5 to 8 p.m., and all day first Friday of the month (November through April) FREE. Call for group rates: 505-476-5087.

New Mexico Museum of Art

107 W. Palace Ave., 505-476-5072 www.nmartmuseum.org HOURS: Daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. (Friday until 8 p.m.), May through October. Closed Monday, November through April. ADMISSION: General $9; New Mexico residents $6 and FREE on Sunday. Friday evening (May through October), 5 to 8 p.m., and all day first Friday of the month (November through April) FREE. Youth (16 and under) and museum members FREE. New Mexico resident seniors w/ID FREE on Wednesday.

Pablita Velarde Museum of Indian Women in the Arts

213 Cathedral Place, 505-988-8900 www.pvmiwa.org HOURS: Tuesday-Sunday, noon-5 p.m. ADMISSION: General $10; students, seniors, New Mexican residents and military $5.

Poeh Museum

78 Cities of Gold Road (in Pojoaque) 505-455-5041 www.poehcenter.org/museum HOURS: Monday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. ADMISSION: FREE; donations are appreciated.

SITE Santa Fe

1606 Paseo de Peralta, 505-989-1199 www.sitesantafe.org HOURS: Thursday & Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday, noon-5 p.m. Closed Monday & Wednesday. ADMISSION: General $10; students and seniors $5; youth (18 and under)and SITE Santa Fe members FREE. Friday all day and Saturday 10 a.m.-noon FREE.

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian Museum Hill, 704 Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail 505-982-4636 www.wheelwright.org HOURS: Daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ADMISSION: FREE; donations are appreciated.

Note: Hours and admission fees are subject to change. A four-day pass for unlimited admission to the four museums in the Museum of New Mexico system (the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, the Museum of International Folk Art, the New Mexico History Museum and the New Mexico Museum of Art) can be purchased for $20 ($18 for New Mexico residents). A one-day pass for any two of these museums can be purchased for $15 ($12 for New Mexico residents).

40 Santa Fe

v isi t

santa fe

New Mexico History Museum/ Palace of the Governors Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography on the Plaza • 505.476.5100 • nmhistorymuseum.org

Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Turquoise, Water, Sky: The Stone and Its Meaning on Museum Hill • 505.476.1250 • indianartsandculture.org

New Mexico Museum 0f Art Local Color: Judy Chicago in New Mexico 1984-2014 closes October 12, 2014 on the Plaza • 505.476.5072 • nmartmuseum.org

Museum of International Folk Art Wooden Menagerie: Made in New Mexico on Museum Hill • 505.476.1200 • internationalfolkart.org

museumofnewmexico.org

Santa Fe 41

Margaret

Nampeyo

Maria

Teec Nos Pos Yeibichai c. 1945

48” x 89”

Native Jackets u On The Plaza u 66 East San Francisco Street 888-420-0005 www.NativeJackets.com u

42 Santa Fe

Pictured Catherine Bacon Original

Origins

A Shop Like No Other

originssantafe.com 505-988-2323 135 West San Francisco St. Santa Fe, NM 87501

Santa Fe 43

Breathtaking. Elegant. Unique.

218 Old Santa Fe Trail across from Loretto Chapel 44 Santa Fe

505-986-8096 | 505-603-0191

GoldHouseSantaFe@aol.com | SantaFeGoldHouse.com