2014-15 Winterlife

Winterlife 20 14-15 WINT ER G UI D E to S anta Fe and N o rt hern N ew Mex ico

HOT SPRINGS in winter SNOWMOBILING how, where, why CUP O’JOE where to go

TAOS REBOOT & regional ski resort news THE SANTA FE NEW MEXICAN santafenewmexican.com

BUFFALO THUNDER

S A N T A F E'S (W I N T E R ) P L A Y G R O U N D

Ca s IN o | H oT El | fIN E D INING | s Pa | Go l f | NIG H TC lU B 87 7-T H U N D ER

BU ffa loT H U N D ER R Es o R T.Co M

RATED

BY AAA

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s a N Ta fE, N E W M E XI C o

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Wheelwright Museum OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN

New Mexico’s oldest non-profit, independent museum, offering unique exhibitions of contemporary and historic Native American art.

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704 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe, NM 87505 • 505-982-4636 or 1-800-607-4636 • www.wheelwright.org

Will Wilson Through April 19, 2015

This project was made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax, and New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts.

Case Trading Post Museum Shop

Offering the Unique in Traditional and Contemporary Native American Art

OPEN

7 DAYS A WEEK 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.

Visit us today or shop online at www.casetradingpost.com

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 3

Get the jewel of your dreams today interest free for a year

Jacqueline’s Place

Caffe Greco

open Daily 7:30aM – 8PM

P laza de S uenos y M ilagros

Plaza de Suenos y Milagros Jewel Mark 505.820.6304 • Jacqueline’s Place 505.820.6542 caffe Greco 505.820.7996 once you have stepped into our world you won’t want to leave 233 canyon road • santa fe, new Mexico 87501 • JewelMark.net

Jewel Mark 505.820.6304 Jacqueline’s Place 505.820.6542 caffe Greco 505.820.7996

once you have stepped into our world you won’t want to leave 233 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 JewelMark.net 4 WINTERLIFE 2 014 -15

Make the O Keeffe part of your Santa Fe experience “It’s the most wonderful place you can imagine. It’s so beautiful there. It’s ridiculous.” STaTeMenT In The new YOrK wOrld-TeleGraM aBOuT new MexIcO, 1945

c u r r e n t l y o n v i e w:

Miguel Covarrubias: Drawing a Cosmopolitan line/ Trazando una línea Cosmopolita Through january 18, 2o15

georgia o’Keeffe: ghost ranch views Through MarCh 22, 2o15

coMing soon:

MoDernisM MaDe in new MexiCo, 1902–1942 january 3o – april 3o, 2o15

new aCquisiTions MarCh 27 – sepTeMber 26, 2o15

Georgia O’Keeffe, Kokopelli with Snow, 1942. Oil on board, 15 1/8 x 10 inches. Gift of The Burnett Foundation and The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation. ©Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

217 Johnson street, santa Fe, new Mexico

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5o5.946.1ooo

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 5

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okeeFFeMuseuM.org

sfnm-winterguide-2014_Layout 1 10/9/14 3:26 PM Page 1

Great Care Every Time You Need Us

Behavioral Health Specialists 440 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 250 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3056

Breast Institute 490 A West Zia Rd. Suite 200 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3101

Geriatrics & Internal Medicine 465 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 116 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-4260

Health Specialists – Los Alamos 2237 Trinity Dr., Unit B Los Alamos, NM 87544 (505) 662-8870

Health Specialists – Taos 1213 Gusdorf Rd. Taos, NM 87571 (505) 988-3233

Heart & Vascular Center 2085 South Pacheco St. Suite A Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-8012

Holistic Health & Wellness 490 B West Zia Rd. Suite 4 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3820

Neurosurgical Associates 465 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 107 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 988-3233

Orthopaedics & Sports Medicine Associates

Orthopaedics of New Mexico

Regional Wound & Hyperbaric Center

2100 Calle de la Vuelta Suite D-103 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-4550

465 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 101 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3180

Physical Medicine & Rehabilitation Specialists

Surgical Associates

440 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 250 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 983-2233

1631 Hospital Dr. Suite 240 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-3975

Urology Associates Pulmonary & Critical Care Associates 465 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 209 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-2600

Regional Cancer Center 490 A West Zia Rd. Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 913-8900

465 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 110 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 982-3534

Women’s Care Specialists 465 St. Michael’s Dr. Suite 117 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 984-0303

1631 Hospital Dr. Suite 200 Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 424-0200

www.stvin.org

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 7

Cover photo courtesy Bobcat Pass Wilderness Adventures www.bobcatpass.com See story on page 39

cover design Deborah Villa owner Robin Martin publisher Ginny Sohn

FEAT UR ES

WINTERLIFE PU BLISHED NOVEMBER 9, 2 014

editor Ray Rivera

editorial creative director Deborah Villa 505-986-3027 magazine editor Dan Gibson copy editor Deborah Paddison

BUG tacos

advertising advertising director Heidi Melendrez 505-986-3007 marketing director Monica Taylor 505-995-3888 art department Elspeth Hilbert, Joan Scholl, Jeana Francis advertising layout Rick Artiaga advertising sales retail manager Art Trujillo, 505-995-3852 Vince Torres, 505-995-3830 Mike Flores, 505-995-3840 Wendy Ortega, 505-995-3892 Chris Alexander, 505-995-3852 Amy Fleeson, 505-995-3844 technology technology director Michael Campbell production operations director Al Waldron assistant production director Tim Cramer prepress manager Dan Gomez press manager Larry Quintana packaging manager Brian Schultz distribution circulation manager Michael Reichard distribution coordinator Reggie Perez

Getting in HOT WATER(S)

PHOTOS KITTY LEAKEN

2014-15 WINTER GUIDE to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico

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web digital development Natalie GuillĂŠn www.santafenewmexican.com address office: 202 E. Marcy St. hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday advertising information: 505-995-3852 delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 for copies of this magazine, call 505-428-7622 or email rperez@sfnewmexican.com

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Lannan Foundation Readings & Conversations: Bringing world-class thinkers to Santa Fe

10

Epazote bug tacos

12

Museums inspire & inform

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Look, listen and shop at Winter Indian Market

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Winter food events charm & satiate: Restaurant Week, Art Feast, Souper bowl

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Cup o’ Joe, sit down or go

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PAINTING THE TOWN

Inside

ZANE BENNETT CONTEMPORARY ART 46

Hearty feasting fare

Getting in hot water(s): local natural & commercial hot springs

52

Catching the big game @ sports bars

28

Taos reboot & other regional ski developments

54

Painting the town — galleries

29

Steep & deep: Ski areas at a glance

57

Desert Chorale and a medley of classical concerts abound

39

Snowmobiling 101

58

Calendar of performances

42

Battling Jack Frost: Time + Cold=Danger

60

The snowmen cometh: Tracking winter precipitation

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 9

LANNAN FOUNDATION READINGS & CONVERSATIONS

Bringing world-class thinkers to Santa Fe BY ARIN MCKENNA The Lannan Foundation sparks intellectual stimulation throughout the winter months by bringing some of the world’s most respected writers and thinkers to Santa Fe. Lively conversations animate the Readings & Conversations series, where nationally and internationally recognized poets and writers discuss their work with another writer, poet, editor, publisher or literary figure. In Pursuit of Cultural Freedom features philosophers, writers, scholars and social-justice activists discussing political, economic, environmental and human-rights issues. Both series run September through May and are rebroadcast on KSFR-FM 101.1 at 2:30 p.m. on the Sunday following the event, which is frequently sold out.

WINTER EVENTS Nov. 12 ANN JONES WITH ANDREW BACEVICH

Journalist, photographer and author Ann Jones has reported from Afghanistan and the Middle East on the impact of war on civilians and has embedded with American forces in Afghanistan to report on war’s impact on soldiers. Jones speaks with Andrew Bacevich, who received the inaugural Lannan Literary Award for An Especially Notable Book in 2005. Part of the In Pursuit of Cultural Freedom series. KITTY LEAKEN

BUG TACOS With the world facing an increasing shortage of protein, many nations and people are turning to the insect world as a food source. While starvation is not a major issue facing Santa Feans, adventurous diners here still have the opportunity to check out the latest food trend sweeping the world. Local bugavores can drop by Epazote on the Hillside to chow down on grasshoppers. “They are very popular,” notes Epazote owner and chef Fernando Olea. “Some people try them out of curiosity, and some because they have had them before in Mexico, where they are well known. In Spanish they are called chapulines.” He imports the critters from Oaxaca; they are then sautéed and served over an avocado sauce on small house-made tortillas, like mini tacos. Occasionally he serves them with a balsamic and guava reduction — “whatever is in season,” says Olea. One review on Yelp states that the diner found them to be “crunchy, nutty and overall very nice.” Maybe so, but I’m not that hungry … yet. Details

Lunch only, closed Wednesdays 86 Old Las Vegas Highway 982-9944, www.epazotesantafe.com

Dec. 10 GARY SHTEYNGART WITH MARY KARR

Michiko Kakutani of The New York Times called Gary Shteyngart’s recent memoir, Little Failure, “… a testament to Mr. Shteyngart’s abilities to write with both self-mocking humor and introspective wisdom, sharp-edged sarcasm and aching — and yes, Chekhovian — tenderness.” Shteyngart speaks with award-winning poet and memoirist Mary Karr, author of The Liars’ Club and Cherry.

Jan. 28 KAREN RUSSELL WITH POROCHISTA KHAKPOUR

Karen Russell was one of The New Yorker’s “20 Under 40” in 2010 and is a recipient of a 2013 MacArthur Foundation Genius Grant. Her debut novel, Swamplandia, was adapted into an HBO series. Russell speaks with Porochista Khakpour, author of The Last Illusion and Sons and Other Flammable Objects.

Gary Shteyngart

Feb. 11

THE FIRE THIS TIME: A TRIBUTE TO JAMES BALDWIN WITH NIKKY FINNEY, RANDALL KENAN AND KEVIN YOUNG

James Baldwin (1924–1987), the great American novelist, poet, essayist, playwright and social critic, is celebrated in an evening of readings by poets and writers Nikky Finney, Randall Kenan and Kevin Young.

March 4 KEVIN BARRY WITH ETHAN NOSOWSKY

The Paris Review writes that Kevin Barry’s “language drags you into a strange, darkly lyrical world, enacting his own definition of literature as a mode of transport.” Barry speaks with Ethan Nosowsky, editorial director at Graywolf Press.

Karen Russell

March 18 NOAM CHOMSKY WITH DAVID BARSAMIAN Noam Chomsky is internationally recognized for his writing, lecturing and teaching on linguistics, philosophy, contemporary issues, intellectual history, international affairs and U.S. foreign policy. Chomsky converses with author David Barsamian, founder and director of Alternative Radio. All events start at 7 p.m. at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W. San Francisco St. Tickets are $6 (general public) and $3 (student with ID and seniors). Purchase at 988-1234 or tickets.ticketssantafe.org. For more information and podcasts of the series, go to www.lannan.org.

Kevin Young

— DG

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v isi t

SANTA FE

New Mexico History Museum/Palace of the Governors Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography on the Plaza • 505.476.5100 • nmhistorymuseum.org

Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Turquoise, Water, Sky: The Stone and Its Meaning on Museum Hill • 505.476.1250 • indianartsandculture.org

New Mexico Museum 0f Art Hunting + Gathering: New Additions to the Museum’s Collection on the Plaza • 505.476.5072 • nmartmuseum.org

Museum of International Folk Art Wooden Menagerie: Made in New Mexico on Museum Hill • 505.476.1200 • internationalfolkart.org

museumofnewmexico.org

Miguel Covarrubias: Drawing a Cosmopolitan Line

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE MUSEUM 217 Johnson St., 946-1000 www.okeeffemuseum.org

Through Jan. 18, Miguel Covarrubias: Drawing a Cosmopolitan Line. Covarrubias and Georgia O’Keeffe were part of an international cluster of artists in New York City during the 1920s and ’30s that formed the cornerstone of the emergent modernist aesthetic. The exhibit illustrates the significance of Covarrubias’ contribution to the history of modern art. Through March 22, Georgia O’Keeffe: The Ghost Ranch Views highlights some of O’Keeffe’s most iconic contributions to American modernism, inspired by her Ghost Ranch home. Jan. 30−April 30, Modernism Made in New Mexico, 1902–1942 explores how an identifiable American modernism was defined in the high-desert landscape of New Mexico.

Museums INSPIRE and INFORM When the blahs of winter seem to darken your world, you’ve finished the last book on your reading list and the thought of skiing or snowmobiling fills you with dread, take heart in the fact that Santa Fe is home to a diverse range of fabulous museums. Here’s what’s showing currently.

Miguel Covarrubias Tehuantepec, ca. 1943 Oil on canvas, 27 x 21 inches Adriana Williams Collection © María Elena Rico Covarrubias

Hunting + Gathering

NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART 107 W. Palace Ave., 476-5072 www.nmartmuseum.org

Martha Opdahl Arroyo Seco #3, 2002 Tufted and sheared wool pile, acid dyes and cotton backing, 81 x 51 in. Collection of the New Mexico Museum of Art.

Through Dec. 30, Spotlight on Gustave Baumann features works by one of New Mexico’s most treasured artists, best known for his woodblock prints of Southwestern landscapes and traditions. Also through Dec. 30, New Mexico Art Tells New Mexico History narrates the stories that make up New Mexico through the eyes of some of the state’s most respected artists. Through Feb. 23, Alcove Shows 1917–1927 features 61 artworks by 24 artists in the museum’s permanent collection. Through March 29, Hunting + Gathering presents a sampling of artworks that have entered the collection since 2010. Focus on Photography, a series of rotating exhibits, features Delilah Montoya’s exploration of culture and identity and Cameraless, images made without film, running through Dec. 7. A survey by master photographer Edward Ranney and Tales from a Dark Room, a tribute to the tools of the trade of wet-process, darkroom photography, have opening receptions 5:30−7:30 p.m. Dec. 19 and run through April 19. Photo Lab, an evolving interactive space featuring cameras, camera equipment and videos about the photographic process, runs through April 19.

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Miguel Covarrubias The New Yorker, July 6, 1929, page 21 Our Lady of the Lily: Georgia O’Keeffe © Condé Nast

Native American Portraits: Points of Inquiry

DESERT SON of santa fe

MUSEUM OF INDIAN ARTS & CULTURE

HANDMADE BOOTS, BELTS, BUCKLES, HANDBAGS & JEWELRY

Through May 2, 2016, Turquoise, Water, Sky: The Stone and Its Meaning illustrates how turquoise was used and its deep significance to the people of the region through MIAC’s extensive collection of Southwestern jewelry, with information on the stone’s geology, mining, history and questions of authenticity and value. Through June 1, Footprints: The Inspiration and Influence of Allan Houser honors the world-renowned artist and teacher’s 100th birthday with an outdoor exhibition of sculpture works by Houser and sculptors he inspired or influenced. Heartbeat: Music of the Native Southwest (through Sept. 8) features more than 100 objects relating to Southwestern Native dance and music. Visitors can make their own music in the Heartbeat Recording Studio. In Native American Portraits: Points of Inquiry (through Jan. 5), the changing perceptions of Native peoples over a span of nearly 100 years Unidentified woman and child are documented through images from Jemez Pueblo, New Mexico, ca 1912 the Palace of the Governors photo By Jesse Nusbaum archives and contemporary images by Glass negative Native photographers. Palace of the Governors Photo Archives

Re pre s e nt i ng He nr y Beg u e l i n, N u m e ro 1 0 & O f f i c i n e C re a t i ve 725 Canyon Rd. • 505-982-9499 • www.desertsonofsantafe.com

708-710 Camino Lejo, 476-1250 www.indianartsandculture.org

61712

When you create with fabric and thread, every project is a journey.

Rattlebone

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY NATIVE ARTS 108 Cathedral Place, 983-1777 www.iaia.edu/museum

Ric Gendron Run Like Hell

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All through Dec. 31: Ric Gendron’s vibrantly expressionistic images chronicle his experience, memory, history, journeys and identity in Rattlebone. In The Desert Never Left “The City,” Mario Martinez’ abstractions merge the influences of his Yaqui culture and the Sonoran Desert he grew up in with his current relationship to New York City’s contemporary urban environment. Alaskan artist Da-ka-xeen Mehner celebrates the lasting and profound relationship between Tlingit language and song in Saligaaw (it is loud-voiced), an installation combining hand-stretched drums and video projection. Courtney Leonard’s BREACH: LOG 14 explores historical ties to water and whales, imposed law, and a current relationship of material sustainability.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 13

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Pottery of the U.S. South: A Living Tradition

MUSEUM OF SPANISH COLONIAL ART 750 Camino Lejo, 982-2226 www.spanishcolonialblog.org

MUSEUM OF INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART 706 Camino Lejo, 476-1200 www.internationalfolkart.org

Through Jan. 5, Brazil and Arte Popular highlights Brazil’s vibrant folk traditions through more than 350 pieces of art, including woodblock prints, folk sculptures, toys, puppets and religious art, with videos of festival dramas. Through Feb. 15, The Wooden Menagerie: Made in New Mexico celebrates the New Mexican Hispano folk tradition of animal wood-carving, with whimsical animals by carvers from the early 20th century through the present. In Between Two Worlds: Folk Artists Reflect on the Immigrant Experience (through May 24), traditional artists from the Americas, Africa and Asia articulate the hopes, fears and challenges of being newcomers in an unfamiliar and sometimes unwelcoming place. Through Jan. 3, 2016, Pottery of the U.S. South: A Living Tradition presents both traditional and contemporary stoneware from North Carolina and north Georgia, illustrating the distinctive style of Southern pottery and its importance to the day-to-day activities of agrarian life.

Vernon Owens, Jug (detail), 2010 Wood-fired, salt-glazed stoneware with ash runs. Seagrove, NC. Museum of International Folk Art IFAF Collection. (FA.2012.24.2)

The Fred Harvey Company and Its Legacy

Secrets of the Symbols: The Hidden Language in Spanish Colonial Art (through May) discusses signs and symbols that were part of everyday language in the colonial period but whose meaning is frequently lost in contemporary times, often revealing fascinating stories. Two exhibits running from Dec. 12 through March are Our Lady of Guadalupe, which honors the saint’s feast day (Dec. 12) through historical and contemporary The Virgin of the Immaculate Conception images from the Melchor Pérez Holguín (1697-1724/1732) collections, and Boxed Potosí, Bolivia In? an exhibit of boxes, Oil on canvas, 56 1/8 x 41 5/8 inches nichos and chests by History Collection, NMHN, DCA Spanish Market artists 2005.27.34. Gift of the International from the collections. Institute of Iberian Colonial Art

PABLITA VELARDE MUSEUM OF INDIAN WOMEN IN THE ARTS

NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM

213 Cathedral Place, 988-8900 www.pvmiwa.org

113 Lincoln Ave., 476-5200 www.nmhistorymuseum.org

Through Feb. 1, Toys and Games: A New Mexico Childhood features 19th-century toys. Through March 1, Gustave Baumann and Friends: Artist Cards from Holidays Past includes a selection of hand-printed, hand-drawn and hand-colored cards from some of New Mexico’s best-known artists, as well as nationally renowned printmakers and graphic artists. Through March 29, Painting the Divine: Images of Mary in the New World features 17th- and 18th-century paintings donated by the International Institute of Iberian Colonial Art, with images from Mexico and South America as well as distinctive hybrid works by New Mexican artists. Also through March 29, Poetics of Light: Pinhole Photography features approximately 200 pinhole photography images from whimsical to scientific and a selection of cameras, including one dating from the 1880s. Programming includes make-your-own-camera opportunities. Maintaining the Standard: The Fred Harvey Company and Its Legacy, an addition to the museum’s permanent exhibit, highlights the Harvey Company’s impact on New Mexico through historical photos, artifacts and excerpts of Harvey Girl interviews from The Harvey Girls: Opportunity Bound. Opening events Dec. 7, 2–4 p.m. Arin McKenna is an award-winning journalist who has freelanced for The Santa Fe New Mexican and other publications since 2004. She is currently county reporter for the Los Alamos Monitor.

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Through Jan. 4, Harvesting Traditions features work by Jemez Pueblo sculptor Kathleen Wall, who mixes native clay with nontraditional materials to create Native figures portraying her cultural heritage.

SITE SANTA FE

1606 Paseo de Peralta, 989-1199 www.sitesantafe.org Through Jan. 11, SITE’s biennial exhibit, SITElines.2014: Unsettled Landscapes, explores the urgencies, political conditions and historical narratives that inform the work of contemporary artists across North, Central and South America, illuminating the connections between representations of the land, movement across the land, and economies and resources derived from the land. In SITElab6: Marcel Pinas/Kukuu, Pinas will work with Santa Fe schoolchildren to recreate “Kukuu/Kitchen,” a monumental sculpture sited in Moengo, Suriname, made in collaboration with students from that town. Pinas takes his inspiration from familiar kitchen items found in Maroon homes. Opening 5:30−7 p.m., Jan. 23 (free); runs through Feb. 15.

WHEELWRIGHT MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN 704 Camino Lejo, 982-4636 wheelwright.org

Through April 19, Diné photographer Will Wilson combines digital technology, historical photographic processes, performance and installation to address the themes of environmental activism, the impacts of cultural and environmental change on indigenous peoples, and the possibility of cultural survival and renewal.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 15

Photo© Kate Russell, Styling by Greg Purdy

Marla Allison in her booth at the 2013 Winter Indian Market

Look, listen and shop at Winter Indian Market BY ARIN MCKENNA

43 Ogo Wii Rd, Santa Fe, NM 87506

www.roadrunnercafenm.com

Shoppers in Santa Fe have a choice on Thanksgiving weekend. They can fight the crowds for bargains at the big-box stores or purchase exquisite, handcrafted art at the ninth annual SWAIA (Southwestern Association for Indian Arts) Winter Indian Market. Winter Market is approximately one-fourth the size of the summer Santa Fe Indian Market, with roughly 200 artists participating. But SWAIA’s selection process guarantees a broad range of work from some of the nation’s best When: 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Nov. 29, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Nov. 30 Native artists. Indian Market’s award Where: Santa Fe Community winners are invited to attend and given Convention Center first option. Any slots left open are on 201 W. Marcy St. (between Grant a first-come, first-served basis, and and Lincoln) many of those are filled by past award Tickets: At the door: general winners. public, including seniors and students, $10 per day; weekend “So you get another chance at some pass, $15; SWAIA members and award-winning art from our awardchildren, free. winning artists,” says SWAIA Director For information: www.swaia.org of PR and Marketing John Paul Rangel. “And really, that’s what sets us apart. We’re not doing an arts-and-crafts fair. This is a smaller version of our summer market, where we are featuring fine art primarily.” Summer Indian Market attracts artists from across the United States and Canada, but Winter Market tends to have a higher percentage of regional artists, providing more of a local flavor. The art itself covers the spectrum, with work from every category and designs ranging from very traditional to cutting edge. Look for exquisite pieces from renowned Native jewelers; meticulously crafted hand-coiled pottery; world-class painting, sculpture and photography; intricate beadwork; and designer clothing. Many artists gear their offerings toward holiday shoppers, although all must meet SWAIA’s standards. Winter Market also features a range of special programming, all free with admission. Activities had not been confirmed at press time, but Rangel anticipates having music, comedy, film and possibly demonstration booths. Visitors may also get a second chance to view the summer 2014 Classification X (Moving Images) award-winning films and videos. The popular silent auction and the raffle for a Christmas tree with ornaments handmade by the artists are also likely to continue.

Details

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From Mexico to Peru to Santa Fe— how Spanish colonists found comfort and courage.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 17

CHARM & SATIATE

WINTER FOOD EVENTS

Above, Restaurant Week, Restaurant Martín lobster salad Edible Art Tour

BY TANTRI WIJA Visitors to Santa Fe ask themselves many questions when they get here: “How much is that painting?” “Where is the Plaza?” “No really, where is the Plaza?” “Why is that a oneway street?” and so on. But the most important question they have is, “Where do we eat?” Because Santa Fe is a food town, where both the residents and the visitors have vociferous opinions on everything from chile hotness to wine terroir, and whatever brings people here (art, hiking, movie-making), everybody’s gotta eat. Winter is the season for indulging, and three events that take place in the dead of winter bring everyone out into the cold to have a taste of something warm.

SOUPER BOWL Santa Fe has no professional sports teams, and so it’s fair to say that many here have more skin in the game at a food competition than the major football game that happens at the end of January. The aptly named Souper Bowl happens the Saturday before the big game. Part cooking contest, part charity event, the football-themed extravaganza pits chef against chef for bragging rights to the best soups in town, voted on by the roaring crowd. Participants pay an entry fee and get to walk from booth to booth to sample each of the soups and vote on their favorites. A running tally is kept as the event goes along, with little paper footballs tracking the front-runners, and the winners are announced at the end of the raucous, rowdy event. Best of all, 100 percent of the proceeds go to the Food Depot, a Santa Fe food bank devoted to stamping out hunger in the state. Date: Jan. 31 www. thefooddepot.org/SouperBowl

ARTFEAST Santa Fe is known as an art town, an amusement park of galleries ranging from tiny holes-in-the-adobe-wall to airy, modern spaces of steel and glass. It is also a food town, with more fine restaurants per capita than many major cities can boast, cropping up in similarly eclectic spaces. In February, KATE RUSSELL

Souper Bowl

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the two combine forces in an event celebrating both the feast for the eyes and the actual feast that Santa Fe dishes out as regular fare. ArtFeast, which takes place this year Feb. 20-22, involves a series of festive events, including a relatively new fashion show which last year featured the stylings of Project Runway winner Mondo Guerra paired with hors d’oeuvres and an artists’ brunch and auction. The signature event is the Edible Art Tour, a movable feast during which the galleries are turned into little mini cocktail parties, each paired with a different Santa Fe restaurant showing off its culinary artistry among the paintings and sculptures. This formerly largely Canyon Road affair expands yearly with the increasing participation of the downtown/Railyard galleries, including a courtesy shuttle to get people between the two areas. Offerings at each stop range from tiny appetizer bites to full plates, all for the price of one ticket bought in advance. The 18-year-old event is the ultimate gallery hop combined with a citywide street party, where you’ll finish the evening stuffed to the gills and having run into everyone you know dressed up and hanging out among the paintings. And it’s a charity event; all proceeds go to ARTsmart, a charity devoted to funding art programs in Santa Fe public schools. Dates: Feb. 20-22 www.artfeast.org

Edible Art Tour

RESTAURANT WEEK For a week in February (Feb. 22-March 1), the culinary cornucopia of Santa Fe goes on sale. During Restaurant Week, participating eateries create special menus showcasing their skills, flavor signatures and culinary styles to draw in new customers. The menus follow a set pricing structure — lower-cost places may offer a 2 for $25 deal, while pricier places offer prix-fixe menus consisting of an appetizer, main course and dessert for $20, $30 or $40 per person. These price points are a steal for many of Santa Fe’s higher-end restaurants, so it’s the perfect opportunity to try out a new place. Last year 54 different restaurants in Santa Fe participated, from Anasazi to Zia Diner. Originally designed as a way to pep up business during tourist downtime, Restaurant Week is becoming a destination event in itself, with people planning their trips to Santa Fe around a period that would normally be slow. This year will once again feature a photo contest or, like last year, a photo scavenger hunt, with gift-certificate prizes for even more food. And the party is growing — last year for the first time, Restaurant Week took place in both Albuquerque and Taos at the same time, allowing New Mexicans to go a bit farther afield for their lower-priced culinary adventures.

Dates: Feb. 22-March 1 www.santafe.nmrestaurantweek.com

Souper Bowl

Edible Art Tour

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 19

PHOTOS JANE PHILLIPS

Cup o’ Joe, sit down or to go BY TANTRI WIJA | PHOTOS BY GENE PEACH The perfect coffeehouse is a unicorn worth searching for, a spot where you can sit all day in the chill of winter and write your screenplay, meet a blind date, or do your Great Books reading with a cup of truly uplifting brew next to you. Santa Fe’s best coffeehouses all feature locally roasted, single-origin coffees; fresh baked goods; and their own unique atmospheres that cater to whatever you’re looking for in a landing spot.

ICONIK

DOWNTOWN SUBSCRIPTION

This Bay area–style haven in the Lena Street Lofts just off Second Street is, as coffee shops go, an amphitheater of abundance. The coffee itself is state of the art, roasted on-site by the owners, who honed their craft under the high coffee gods of San Francisco. Single cups are prepared via careful pourover, a process by which filtered water is poured slowly through ground beans and a filter, bringing out the culinary flavors of their delicately roasted beans. The beans themselves are sourced from individual farms and listed by location and flavor profile. Fresh house-made baked goods festoon the register area, and the blackboards offer ample food selections like omelets, house-baked bagel sandwiches and fresh salads. Iced coffee comes in regular or “nitro,” an amped-up, hyper-caffeinated, not-for-the-faint libation, and paleo-friendly buttered coffee is on offer as well. Iconik is bright, fresh, and offers a bevy of comfortable seating, including a cushy, cozy window. It will immediately become apparent that this is where the cool kids go to sit all day with their laptops and write novels, and weekends a bluegrass band thumps along in the main room in case anyone forgets about their hipster roots.

This Eastside local’s favorite offers a Santa Fe– relaxed atmosphere and latte art, and it’s a reader’s paradise with its truly comprehensive selection of periodicals and a bookstore next door. The coffee itself is roasted by Allegro, a Colorado coffee company whose small-batch roasts and blends you can also find in grocery stores here. Downtown Subscription takes an old-school, almost minimalist approach, with solid espresso drinks and sandwiches and quiches for a light lunch in the college library– like atmosphere.

1600 Lena St., www.iconikcoffee.com

OHORI’S COFFEE ROASTERS 505 Cerrillos Road & 1098 S. St. Francis Drive www.ohoriscoffee.com Ohori’s is Santa Fe’s original artisanal roaster, 30 years old this year and much beloved by locals, particularly at their original location’s drive-through window. But the new location at 505 Cerrillos, behind Talin Market, is a shiny new bastion of coffee-shop culture, comfortable and fresh and conveniently close to downtown. Ohori’s is a coffee shop’s coffee shop, where you get your morning brew prepared with craftsmanlike precision, just the way you want it. Ohori’s now offers pour-overs of lighter roasts in addition to their traditional dark-roasted drip coffee and espresso offerings, and a selection of fresh biscotti to go with the beloved Peet’s-style dark houseroasted coffee. Neither location has Wi-Fi, which to some might be an insurmountable negative but to others makes it a haven of unplugged relaxation, a quiet, contemplative space conducive to sipping and conversation in coffee-scented air.

376 Garcia St., 983-3085

DULCE

1100 Don Diego Ave. www.dulcebakery.com Dulce is primarily a bakery, and they know it. The air inside smells like toasted streusel and warm cinnamon, and there’s a vast array of fresh baked goods, from giant savory scones to sugar-topped blueberry muffins, bread pudding, slabs of heady chocolate cake and adorable red velvet cupcakes, all baked by the house. They pull Agapao coffee, a popular Santa Fe single-origin coffee roaster (and tea distributor), deftly serving out foamy espresso drinks in which to dip cardamom coffee cake or fresh croissants while sitting in the cheery, Midcentury Modern–styled main room, a popular spot for Santa Feans having lively conversations at any time of day.

Top, coffee from Iconik, below, pastry from Dulce Facing page clockwise from the top, Dulce, Iconik, Downtown Subscription, Ohori’s

NOTABLE MENTIONS

STATION

THE BETTERDAY

This corner shop where the train stops at the Railyard pours classic Italian Illy espresso and offers a selection of blended drinks, smoothies, Taos Cow ice cream, and a cold case of anything from croissant sandwiches to lemon bars. For a cappuccino, iced coffee with coffee ice cubes or a snack for the train, you can choose between Station or Flying Star across the tracks, but the staff at Station is far friendlier.

905 W. Alameda St.

The Betterday in the Solana Center pours Stumptown coffee, a premium roast from Portland, so the coffee is first-rate. The Betterday boasts a more-hipster-than-hipster vibe with rough wood tables and bicycle frames on the walls, but often it’s best to take your coffee to go since the musty interior and moody service can make it an uncomfortable place to hang out.

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530 S. Guadalupe St. in the Railyard, 988-2470

Tantri Wija is a writer and filmmaker from Bali, Indonesia and Santa Fe. She currently writes for The Santa Fe New Mexican’s Taste page, and for the food blog delishulous.com.

Getting in

Giggling Springs

Hot Water(s) BY DANIEL GIBSON

IN THE DEPTHS OF WINTER, what can be more comforting than slipping into a hot spring for a long soak? Northern New Mexico is blessed by many natural hot springs that people have been using for millennia, and the area is also home today to numerous contemporary commercial bathhouses that are certain to work their magic on you, dissipating the cold and lifting the gloom. When the snowflakes fly and the cold is biting, join us on this tour of hot springs and bathhouses of the region.

Ten Thousand Waves

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Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa

COMMERCIAL BATHHOUSES Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa 505/583-2233, www.ojospa.com Located in the town of Ojo Caliente, 50 miles northwest of Santa Fe. Walk-in guests welcomed.

This bathhouse is the grande dame of New Mexico’s commercial hot springs. First opened in 1868 — making it perhaps the oldest in the United States — it has undergone significant upgrades over the past decade, improving its look, facilities and services. With overnight accommodations ranging from rooms in the original creaky hotel to new, posh suites and casitas — some with their own thermal pools — you can stay here for several days sampling all the various pools and spa services, including massage and the famous blanket wraps. The latter is a great way to end your visit. Emerging from the springs, you enter a room with raised tables where you are wrapped in a cotton blanket, then a heavier wool blanket. Lying on your back, you drift off into

COURTESY PHOTOS

a meditative slumber, like an ancient Egyptian in his sarcophagus entering the heavenly realms. Even day-trippers can access all the resort’s primary sulfur-free pools, which vary in mineral properties and temperatures from 85 to 106 degrees. The Iron Pool is said to be particularly beneficial for the blood and the immune system, while the Soda Pool is good for treating stress and nervous disorders, the Arsenic Pool works for arthritis and ulcer pain relief, and the Lithia Pool aids depression and digestion. There is also a therapeutic mudding area where you can slather on a special clay that pulls toxins and dead skin cells from your body as it dries. It’s also a hoot to see how it transforms one’s look! With a gift shop, restaurant, changing rooms, and private bathtubs or couples tubs, Ojo offers customers a thorough bathhouse experience. And, nothing beats sitting in the outdoor Soda Pool next to its ancient, colorful travertine flowstone formation where the

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 23

healing water emerges from Mother Earth while snow falls on your head. Bathing suits required. Ten Thousand Waves 505/982-9304, www.tenthousandwaves.com Just five minutes from the Santa Fe Plaza on the ski basin road (N.M. 475). Reservations highly advised.

Ten Thousand Waves isn’t really a natural mineral spring, but this Japanese-style bathhouse is guaranteed to leave guests serene and rejuvenated. On-site well water is gasheated to 97 to 106 degrees and piped into a variety of private outdoor bathing areas as well as one group pool for women and one group pool for men and women. The communal pools offer a very affordable bathing experience. Each one-of-a-kind private tub is a jewel, with lovely views and foliage, the sculpted piñon trees evoking the Japanese bonsai tradition. Some come with attached saunas, some with icy-cold plunge pools (which are great for reviving), and resting cabanas. Each has a private changing area, toilet and shower.

Opened in 1981, the facility also offers a complete range of massage services by qualified therapists, and facial and skincare services. Last year it added a terrific Japanese-style country pub with excellent food to go along with its charming overnight accommodations. Jemez Springs Bath House

575/829-3303 www.jemezsprings.org/bathhouse.html Located in the small park on the main street of Jemez Springs (N.M. 4). Open daily. Reservations recommended.

This somewhat dated but clean nonprofit bathhouse has eight private rooms with large cement tubs where you regulate the temperature with over-sized hot and cold facets. The hot water emerges at 154 to 186 degrees, so if you like a lobster pot, this is the spot! The naturally occurring minerals in the water include acid carbonate, aluminum, calcium, chloride, iron, magnesium, potassium, silicate, sodium and sulphate. You can also enjoy massages by licensed therapists, and blanket and herbal wraps. Clothing optional. It’s perhaps the most affordable of commercial options, with prices starting at just $12 for a 25-minute soak. Giggling Springs

575/829-9175, www.gigglingsprings.com Located in Jemez Springs. Bathing suits required. Reservations strongly recommended.

Giggling Springs is also located on the Jemez River near the site of the oldest original local bathhouse. Temperatures in the lovely 20-by-30-foot pool run 102 to 104 degrees. Rates start at just $18 for an hour on the property.

NATURAL HOT SPRINGS The Jemez Mountains were created from a series of massive volcanic eruptions over millions of years, and the magma beneath the range continues to heat underground water bodies that emerge at numerous locations. Because of possible existence of water-borne pathogens, it is suggested that you not dunk your head or ingest any of the water. Winter access can be difficult due to snow. Forest Service regulations call for bathing suits, but this is often ignored. For additional details, contact the Jemez Ranger District at 575/829-3065. Spence Hot Springs

The most popular and accessible of the Jemezarea springs is located 7 miles north of Jemez Springs just off N.M. 4, at mile post 24.5, between Dark Canyon and Rincon day use areas. From the large parking lot, follow the short trail down to the river and up the other side to the springs.
Temperatures range from 100 to 110 degrees. McCauley Warm Springs

Accessible from either Battleship Rock (5 miles north of Jemez Springs on N.M. 4, at mile post 23) or Jemez Falls Campground. Park at either location for the roughly 2.5-mile hike in to the springs.

 San Antonio Hot Springs

The water in this series of hillside pools in San Diego Canyon ranges from just warmish to 105 degrees. They overlook a meandering stream and a cliff pocketed with thousands of caves. Mid-spring to mid-fall, take N.M. 4 to La Cueva, then turn west onto N.M. 126

THE WATER IN THIS SERIES OF HILLSIDE POOLS IN SAN DIEGO CANYON RANGES FROM JUST WARMISH TO 105 DEGREES.

and proceed 4.3 miles to the rugged Forest Service Road 376. A high clearance vehicle is suggested. Drive 4.5 miles (about 45 minutes) to a parking area and continue on foot 15 minutes down the old road into the valley. In winter, when FR 376 is closed to vehicles, you can either walk in on it, or combine a crosscountry ski excursion via a different route. The skiing route is about 4 miles each direction. It begins 1.8 miles west of La Cueva on N.M. 126. Find the small parking lot on the right with a cattle-guard entrance. This is also access to a private road, but it is

fully acceptable to use the parking lot and to walk on the road. Park and follow the road (which may have little snow coverage) to the trailhead, about a mile up. You will have the San Antonio River on your left and will soon come to a cabin. Go around it and take the trail downhill toward the river, which will take you eventually up to the springs. Returning to your car is almost all downhill. Daniel Gibson of Santa Fe has spent many a winter day enjoying the region’s healing waters. He is also the editor of this publication.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 25

PHOTOS KITTY LEAKEN

Top, Isabel Gibson at San Antonio Hot Springs, below San Antonio Hot Springs. Facing page, from the left, Jemez Springs, San Antonio Hot Springs trail.

/

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www.santafefarmersmarket.com 1607 Paseo de Peralta | 505-983-4098

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Presents the

26th Annual Winter Market Friday, November 28 12:00–7 Saturday, November 29 9-5 Over 100 Artists and much more at the Hotel Albuquerque in Old Town Albuquerque Onofre E. Lucero and Felipe Rivera La Santisima Trinidad

THE ART OF HOSPITALITY Discover a sanctuary of Southwest refinement at La Posada de Santa Fe, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa.

For tickets go to: www.spanishcolonial.org/ticket-purchase or Call 505.982.2226 x 109

Steps from the historic Plaza, and nestled amongst six rich acres of colorful gardens and picturesque views, 157 handcrafted adobe brick casita-style guest rooms and suites radiate the spirit of the Southwest.

What’s Happening at The Museum of Spanish Colonial Art? Don’t miss these Upcoming Exhibits at the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, Museum Hill

505 986 0000 | laposadadesantafe.com

In addition to ongoing exhibitions, look for these openings:

Guadalupe: opens 12/12/14 through 5/31/15~Images of Our Lady of Guadalupe from the collections Boxed In: opens 12/12/14 through 5/31/15~Tin, wood, leather, and straw appliqué boxes from the artists of Spanish Market, from the collection Blue-on-Blue: Indigo and Cobalt in New Spain, opens 5/8/15 Secrets of the Symbols: The Hidden Language in Spanish Colonial Art, through May 2015

Lecture Series at the Museum

Monday, December 1, 2pm Ray Hernández-Durán, Ph.D. Baroque Art in Spain and Latin America Monday, January 12, 2pm Penelope Hunter-Stiebel Rococo, the Continuous Curve Monday, February 23, 2pm William Wroth, Ph.D. Sustainable Crafts of Department de Santander, Colombia The MOSCA Lecture Series is made possible by the generosity of

Museum of Spanish Colonial Art

©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, The Luxury Collection and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Museum Hill

750 Camino Lejo (first Museum off of Old Santa Fe Trail) Visit www.spanishcolonial.org or Call: 505.982.2226 x 109

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 27 LC_LaPosada_BienvenidosWinterLifeAd_4.1806x10.5139.indd 1

10/16/2014 11:44:40 AM

TSV reboot & Pajarito revamped BY DANIEL GIBSON The New Mexico ski world was rocked by two major developments in 2014, with the announcement that Taos Ski Valley was being sold and that management of Pajarito Mountain was being shifted to the same folks who so successfully run tiny Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort. Since then, more details have emerged about these huge evolutionary steps in the regional snow-sports scene. The biggest news was the sale of Taos Ski Valley to the out-of-state billionaire Louis Bacon. With Bacon’s deep pockets, Taos has launched an ambitious multi-year plan to upgrade lifts, add ski terrain, and redesign and rebuild the base facilities. The major change visitors will find this season at TSV is the addition of a new $3 million fixed-grip triple chair up Kachina Peak. To reduce wind effects on the new lift, it terminates just 31 feet below the 12,481-foot summit, making it the nation’s fourth-highest chair (Breckenridge leads this category with a high-speed quad reaching 12,840 feet, followed by chairs at Loveland Basin at 12,700 feet and Breckenridge at 12,472-feet). With a vertical rise of 1,100 feet, the ride up will take about five minutes and give Taos a total vertical drop of 3,250 feet. Seven new ski patrollers have been added, in part to help manage the increasing number of skiers on the peak. “This is one of the most significant (national) projects in skiing for this coming season,” noted TSV CEO Gordon Briner in a press release. But, not everybody is happy with the new lift. Getting to Kachina’s summit used to be a real undertaking and adventure. On foot, the hike to Kachina from the top of Chair 2 used to take at least 30 minutes for strong climbers, or an hour for slow parties. This ensured that not many people made the summit, which kept the powder fresh. Now expect to see moguls on the peak’s primary run, Main Street. However, about half of

New developments rock the regional ski scene

Taos Ski Valley

the total hike-to terrain off Highline Ridge and West Basin Ridge will be left intact, so those seeking a more pristine experience still will be accommodated. In fact, at the far end of West Basin Ridge, 35 acres of new gladed terrain, called The Wild West, will open up for the 2014–15 season. Summer timber-harvesting crews worked in the area thinning the crowded forest, improving both its health and its skiing and boarding potential. It is appropriate for expert skiers and will terminate on Lower Stauffenberg. Another new wrinkle in the resort’s skiing experience this season is the Mountain Guide Program. Run by the Ernie Blake Snowsports School, it will allow solo skiers or small groups to enjoy the mountain following one of the ski school’s most charismatic and experienced leaders. They will provide instruction but also take patrons to the best snow on the mountain on any given day, reveal hidden stashes, and share the area’s unique history and local lore. It will cost $50 an hour, with a two-hour

minimum. The new drop-off point to access the resort is another significant change this season. It will move east to Thunderbird Lane and lessen the elevation gain on foot required for people to reach the ticketing area, shops and bottom chair. “Ticketing, in a temporary facility, will now be located next to Taos Ski and Boot,” explains Jessie Keaveny, TSV’s new Chief Hospitality Officer “The new elevated walkway will provide a pedestrian-friendly approach to the base,” he explained, and will be lined with shops, such as Taos Mesa Brewery, Cold Smoke Photography, Chocolate Extreme, Taos Ski Valley Chamber, the post office and bathrooms. Yet another change is an improvement to the Taos snowmaking system. While the volume of water used will remain the same, the new, highly efficient system will allow more snow to be made with far less energy early in the season and thus runs to open earlier. “We couldn’t be more excited about this upcoming season,” said Briner.

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“We are making positive changes while simultaneously preserving what makes Taos Ski Valley so extraordinary.” Indeed, much will remain the same — particularly TSV’s incredible terrain, deep and light snowfall, and the character of the valley and its personnel. Most of the faces you are used to seeing here have stayed on board. One of the major new hires is the chief hospitality officer, who will fill a new position overseeing food and beverage services and lodging owned by the resort itself. Along these lines, this summer the resort purchased the cherished Bavarian Lodge & Restaurant, making its entrée into the valley’s lodging market. The lodge’s management will continue under founders Thomas and Jamie Schulze. Another important new face at the area will be Marketing Director Keaveny. He comes to Taos after working in the hospitality industry in Mississippi and in the Lake Tahoe area for Caesars Entertainment Corp. He has spent many a day on the slopes at Heavenly, Squaw and Kirkwood, but, he says, “I’m eager to get out on the mountain here. It should be a great season!” The other major news in the regional ski scene is the change in management at Pajarito, just outside of Los Alamos in the Jemez Mountains. The same team that put tiny Sipapu on the ski map of Northern New Mexico will be in charge of Pajarito this winter. Expect to see increased snowmaking, a longer season, a daily operating schedule from Dec. 20 to closing, more special events, and deep discounts for groups and lodging packages. Additional changes in coming years will follow. Daniel Gibson, the editor of Winterlife, first strapped on wooden skis and leather boots in 1961 at Taos Ski Valley. His weekly snow sports and travel column, “Snow Trax,” will run weekly in the New Mexican beginning at Thanksgiving.

SKI AREAS AT A GLANCE Angel Fire

Ski Santa Fe

64

GRANDE

El Prado 68

Taos Pueblo Taos

The New Mexican

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 29

Cristo Mountains

Arroyo Seco

Shady Brook From Taos

ar

ro

Agua Fria

Angel Fire Valle Escondido 434

San gre de

RIO

25

B143

Arroyo Hondo

Cr i sto M ountains

er

iv

Valdez

64

Black Lake

e ng

Santa Fe R

Santa Fe

522

Eagle Nest Lake Cim

Ra

475

800-633-7463, www.angelfireresort.com Snow report: 800-633-7463 Scheduled season: Dec. 12–March 22 Distance from Santa Fe: 94 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two surface lifts servicing 74 downhill trails (24 percent expert, 50 percent intermediate, 26 percent beginner) and groomed Nordic trails. Lift tickets: Adult (ages 18–69), full day $66, half-day $52; teens (13–17), full day $56, half-day $42; juniors (7–12), full day $46, half-day $36; free for children age 6 and under and seniors 70 and older. Night lift ticket $24. Nordic daily pass: $10, snowshoe pass $6, sledding $5. Value packages and military and other discounts are available. Elevation: 8,600 feet at base; 10,677 feet at summit; 2,077-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 210 inches; snowmaking on 52 percent of the mountain. Facilities: State’s only night skiing (with Night Rider Terrain Park), lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program, Nordic center with 15 km of trails and rentals, multiple terrain parks for all levels (including new Railyard Park), tubing hill, sledding, snowshoeing and state’s longest zip line. Childcare: Day-care center and children’s ski school. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Take U.S. 64 east over Palo Flechado Pass (9,101 ft.) to N.M. 434, and follow this south to the resort.

n

Tesuque

Angel Fire Resort

Taos Ski Valley

Santa Fe Ski Basin

San gre d e Cris

84 285

800-347-7414, www.skitaos.org Snow report: 575-776-2291, ext. 2202 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 5 (Nov. 27–Dec. 19 and March 23–April 5, Thursday through Sunday only). Distance from Santa Fe: 90 miles Travel time: Two hours Lifts and runs: 12 chairlifts and three surface lifts servicing 113 trails (51 percent advanced, 25 percent intermediate, 24 percent beginner). Elevation: 9,207 feet at base; 12,450 at top of new Kachina Chair; 3,250-foot vertical drop. Lift tickets: Adult, full day $82, half-day $68; teens (13–17), full day $71, half-day $53; children (7–12) full day $51, half-day $44; seniors (65–79), full day $71, half-day $53; free for children ages 6 and under (with a paying adult) and those 80 and older; seniors 70–79 qualify for discount season pass; over 80 ski free. Prices reduced Nov. 27–Dec. 19 and March 23–April 5. Annual passes, Taos Card and other discounts available. Snow: Average annual snowfall 305 inches; snowmaking on all beginner and intermediate slopes. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, retail shops, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program and terrain park. Childcare: Kinderkafig Children’s Center day care and ski and boarding schools. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 north through Taos. Take N.M. 150 to Taos Ski Valley.

to Mount ains

Pojoaque

Taos Ski Valley

de

505-982-4429, www.skisantafe.com Snow report: 505-983-9155 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving Day to April 5 Distance from Santa Fe: 16 miles Travel time: 30 minutes Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and two conveyor lifts servicing 77 trails (40 percent expert, 40 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Elevation: 10,350 feet at base; 12,075 feet at summit; 1,725-foot vertical drop. Lift tickets: Adult (ages 21–61), full day $70, halfday $55; teens (13–20), full or half-day $55; children (12 and under) and seniors (62–71), full day $50; free for children under 46 inches tall and seniors 72 years and older. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available. Snow: Average annual snowfall 225 inches; snowmaking on 50 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, retail shops, restaurants, Adaptive Ski Program and freestyle fun park. Childcare: Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center day care and snow-sports school, Adventure Glade. Directions from Santa Fe: Take Washington Avenue to Artist Road and turn right. Artist Road becomes Hyde Park Road (N.M. 475); follow it to the top of the mountain.

Sa ng re

Ski Santa Fe

Angel Fire

Black Lake 120

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

Pajarito Ski Area CR-1

502

White Rock

Eagle Nest Eagle Nest Lake

64

Bandelier National Monument

AN DE

4

RIO

Questa

Red River Ski Area Red River

Pojoaque

Los Alamos

38

Wheeler Peak Village

30

522

eV idal

FR-601

84 285

575-754-2223, www.redriverskiarea.com Snow report: 575-754-2223 Scheduled season: Nov. 26 to late March (weekends only until mid-December). Distance from Santa Fe: 110 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Lifts and runs: Three triple chairs, two doubles and two surface lifts servicing 57 trails (30 percent advanced, 38 percent intermediate, 32 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adult, full day $67, half-day $52; teens (13– 19), full day $61, half-day $47; juniors (4–12), full day $51, half-day $38; seniors (65–69), full day $51, half-day $38; free for children 3 and under and seniors 70 and older. Group rates for 20 or more skiers and other discounts available; call or visit website. Elevation: 8,750 feet at base; 10,350 feet at summit; 1,600-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 215 inches, snowmaking on 85 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurants. Childcare: Day-care center. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 522 north through Taos. At Questa, turn right (east) on N.M. 38 and proceed 12 miles to the town of Red River.

Va ll

Española

Red River Ski Area

GR

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From Taos

Tao s

578

eV idal

Va ll

Red River

Jemez M ountains

From Taos

Enchanted Forest

Tao s

Questa

Mountains

575-754-6112, www.enchantedforestxc.com Snow report: 575-754-6112 Scheduled season: Nov. 14 to late March Distance from Santa Fe: 120 miles Travel time: Two and a half hours Trails: Up to 33 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails (5 percent expert, 20 percent advanced, 50 percent intermediate, 25 percent beginner), plus 18 kilometers for snowshoeing and 5 kilometers where dogs are allowed. Trail passes: Adults, full day $18, afternoon only $14; seniors (62–69) and teens (13–17), $15; 70 and over free; children (7–12) $9. No charge for 6 and under and over 70. Three-day-plus discounts at $12 per day. Season passes also available. Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 10,040 at summit; 400foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 240 inches; no snowmaking. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, snack bar, warming hut, overnight rental yurt, midway day lodge. Childcare: None. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to Taos. Proceed north on N.M. 522 to Questa and turn onto N.M. 38 heading east to Enchanted Forest, 3 miles east of Red River.

505-662-5725, www.skipajarito.com Snow report: 505-662-5725 Scheduled season: Nov. 27 (daily from Dec. 20) to March 29, plus weekends (conditions and weather permitting) through April 12. Distance from Santa Fe: 40 miles Travel time: 60 minutes Lifts and runs: Five chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 40 trails (30 percent expert, 50 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adults, full day $49, half-day $42; teens (13–20), full day $42, half-day $33; children (7–12), full day $34, half-day $27; seniors (60–69), $42, half-day $33; free for children age 6 and under and seniors 70 and older. Season passes, value packages and other discounts are available. Elevation: 9,200 feet at base; 10,440 at summit; 
1,240foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 160 inches. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, café, Adaptive Ski Program, accessible to Nordic trails, terrain park. Childcare: None. Children’s ski school. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Follow signs to the ski area.

Mountains

Pajarito Mountain Ski Area

Enchanted Forest Cross Country and Snowshoe Area

522

Red River Ski Area

578

38

Wheeler Peak Village Eagle Nest Eagle Nest Lake

64

The New Mexican

LuNCH

DINNEr

5:00 pm 8:30 pm sun-thru 9:30 pm Fri and sat

11:30 am - 3:00 pm

Enjoy a great view of the plaza from our Heated balcony

bEErs CoCKtaILs sotHWEst CuIsINE FuLL bar FabuLous DECK 100 tEQuILas

Happy Hours Daily from 4-6pm and 8 - Close DrINK spECIaLs $5 House Margaritas $5 Glass of Red | White Wine (Changes weekly please ask your server) $3.00 Select Local Draught and Domestic Beers Happy Hour FooD spECIaLs 4-6pm and 8-9pm $3.00 Prime Beef Slider with Fries $3.00 Chicken Nachos $3.00 Chips and Salsa $3.00 Queso and Chips $3.00 Frito Pie 50¢ Chicken Wings (each)

11:30 am 9:00 pm sun-thru 10:00 pm Fri and sat

505-490-6550

-

www.thunderbirdsantafe.com

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 31

Sipapu

575-464-3600, www.skiapache.com Snow report: 575-464-1234 Scheduled season: Thanksgiving to Easter weekend Distance from Santa Fe: 200 miles Travel time: Four and a half hours Lifts and runs: One gondola (installed in 2013), eight chairlifts and one surface lift servicing 55 trails (45 percent expert, 35 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adults, full day $65, half-day $46; children (12 and under), full day $45, half-day $32; teens (13–17), full day $46, half-day $39; free for seniors 70 and older. Season passes and early season discounts available. Elevation: 9,600 feet at base; 12,003 at summit; 1,800foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 180 inches; snowmaking on 15 trails, including upper mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, restaurant, small slotmachine center, terrain park. Childcare: Day care available by reservation in Ruidoso; Kiddie Korral lessons for ages 4–6. Directions from Santa Fe: Take Interstate 25 north to Eldorado exit, then south on U.S. 285 to U.S. 60 at

68

518

Pilar

Embudo Dixon

75

Valles Caldera National Preserve

505-661-3333, 866-382-5537, www.vallescaldera.gov Snow report and Weatherline: 505-661-3333 Scheduled season: December to late March (open mainly weekends early season, then daily; call to confirm). Distance from Santa Fe: 65 miles Travel time: 90 minutes Trails: 37 miles of cross-country and snowshoeing trails, including a groomed main trail that’s about a 45-minute loop on the Valle Grande (5 percent expert, 10 percent advanced, 65 percent intermediate, 20 percent beginner). About 11,300 acres are available for day use, mostly ungroomed. Reservations not required. Snowshoes and poles available for rent. Trail passes: Adults, $10; children (under 16), free; seniors (62 and older), $8; free under 4. Five-day passes are available. The ungroomed Coyote Call trail on the south side of N.M. 4 and some 500 acres of open terrain are available for free. Elevation: 8,500 feet Facilities: Gift shop, rentals Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Pojoaque, then head west on N.M. 502 to Los Alamos. Take N.M. 4 west into the Jemez Mountains. The preserve entrance is on the north side of the road near milepost 39.

From Carrizozo

380

Nogal

Ski Apache

37

Black Lake

Velarde From U.S. 84/285

Sipapu Ski Area

Encino, then east on U.S. 60 to N.M. 54, then south to Carrizozo, then east on U.S. 380 for 8 miles, then south on N.M. 37, then right on N.M. 48 to Alto, and finally right on N.M. 532 for 12 miles to the ski area. Last leg is chains-only during storms.

Trampas 76 Truchas

32 WINTERLIFE The 2 014New -15 Mexican

Sierr a Blanca

800-587-2240, www.sipapunm.com Snow report: 800-587-2240 Scheduled season: Nov. 15 to mid-April; weekends only at beginning and end of season Distance from Santa Fe: 60 miles Travel time: 90 minutes Lifts and runs: Two triple chairlifts, one platter lift and two Magic Carpet lifts servicing 41 trails (20 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate, 25 percent advanced and 15 percent expert). Lift tickets: Adult, full day $44, half-day $33; teens (13–20), full day $37, half-day $28; juniors (7–12), full day $29, half-day $22; seniors (61–69), full day $29, half-day $22. Free for children age 6 and under, fourth- and fifthgraders, 40-year-olds, 60-year-olds and seniors over 70. Value packages, season passes and other discounts are available. Elevation: 8,200 feet at base; 9,255 at summit; 
1,055foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 190 inches; snowmaking

Ski Apache

Sangr ed Mou e Crist ntain o s

Sipapu Ski Resort

on 70 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Lessons, rentals, lodging, restaurants and three terrain parks. Childcare: None. Children’s ski school. Directions from Santa Fe: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Española, then N.M. 68 to N.M. 75 through Penasco to N.M. 518. At intersection with N.M. 518 go straight (east) for 5 miles.

GR AN DE

505-242-9052, www.sandiapeak.com Snow report: 505-857-8911 Scheduled season: Dec. 20–March 15 Distance from Santa Fe: 66 miles Travel time: One hour (via Interstate 25 and tram) Lifts and runs: Four chairlifts, one surface lift and one tramway servicing 30 trails (10 percent expert, 55 percent intermediate, 35 percent beginner). Lift tickets: Adult, full day $50, half-day $35; teens, full day $40; seniors (62–71) and children (6–12), full day $40, half-day $30. Free for seniors 72 and older and children under 46 inches tall in ski boots. Season passes, Peak Plus Card and other discounts available. Elevation: 8,678 feet at base; summit, 10,376 feet; 1,700-foot vertical drop. Snow: Average annual snowfall 125 inches; snowmaking on 15 percent of the mountain. Facilities: Snow Sports School, rentals, Skier’s Café and High Finance Restaurant, terrain park. Childcare: None. Children’s ski school for ages 4–6. Directions from Santa Fe: To reach the tramway, take Interstate 25 south to Albuquerque, exit onto Tramway Road (exit 234) and drive east 6 miles to Sandia Peak Tram. To reach the base lodge (beginner and intermediate trails), take N.M. 14 south toward Cedar Crest and turn onto N.M. 536.

RI O

Sandia Peak

Ski Apache

Angus 532

Capitan

Fort 48 Stanton Rio

o nit

Bo

Alto Ruidoso

220

70

ambiance matters

Santa Fe Place. ShoP For what matterS.

Check out Santa Fe Place’s New Look!!

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 33

Valles Caldera

Rentals and Repairs Whether you decide to buy or rent, or need gear tune-ups, winter apparel or accessories, the following shops can get you outfitted for snow sports.

Alpine Sports

Rents and sells skis, snowboards, Nordic equipment and snowshoes, plus sales of apparel and related gear. Also does servicing and tuning on downhill and cross-country skis, snowboards and snowshoes. 121 Sandoval St., 983-5155 www.alpinesports-santafe.com

Come home to modern comfort food, craft beers, and an eclectic wine list.

Cottam’s Ski Shops

Rentals of downhill skis, snowboards, cross-country gear, snowshoes and snowblades, plus servicing and tune-ups. Reserve rentals online and save 10 percent. 740 Hyde Park Road (N.M. 545, within Hyde Memorial State Park), 982-0495; and in Taos at 207-A Paseo del Pueblo Sur, 575/758-2822; and Taos Ski Valley, 101 Sutton Place, 575/776-8719 www.cottamsskishops.com

New Mexico Bike N Sport

Rentals of cross-country skis and boots, as well as snow bikes. 524-C Cordova Road, 820-0809 www.nmbikensport.com

REI Santa Fe

Sales and servicing (but not rentals) of downhill skis, snowboards, alpine touring skis and cross-country skis, plus a wide range of clothing and accessories. 500 Market St. (in Railyard), 982-3557 www.rei.com/stores/santa-fe.html

Ski Santa Fe Sports Shop

The on-mountain retail shop of Ski Santa Fe offers a wide variety of apparel — from helmets to socks — and accessories, including Ski Santa Fe logo merchandise. 982-4429 www.skisantafe.com/snow-sports-shop/

Ski Tech Ski Rentals 730 St. Michael’s Drive The former Hidden Chicken Restaurant

Rents downhill skis, snowboards and snowshoes, clothing and helmets. Also includes service shop, sales of accessories and equipment delivery. Open daily 7:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. 905 S. St. Francis Drive, 983-5512 www.skitechsantafe.com

505-471-0440 • loyalhoundpub.com

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Retreat, Relax, Rejuvenate After an exhilarating winter day in Santa Fe, rejuvenate in Ojo’s steamy, soothing, historic hot springs.

20% Off Skier’s Special Bring your lift ticket or season pass from any New Mexico Ski Resort and receive 20% off Springs’ entry or lodging.* Valid December 1, 2014 - April 30, 2015, 7 days/week, not including holiday periods. Visit website for dates. One discount per lift ticket/pass. Not to be combined with any other offer. Lodging includes Springs’ access.

505.583.2233

ojocaliente

Visit ojospa.com for lodging and spa specials.

12 sulfur-free mineral pools. New Mud Area open year-round, weather permitting. Private Outdoor Pools. Private Kiva Pool for lodgers. Full-service spa. Enchanting suites & cottages. The Artesian Restaurant & Wine Bar. Yoga, hiking & mountain biking trails. Less than an hour North of Santa Fe.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 35

FINE ART AND CRAFTS FROM LOCAL JURIED ARTISTS RAILYARD PARK Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe Next to the Farmers Market

Saturdays, March thru December 8 am to 1 pm

sipapu is FIRST To OpEN

CATHEDRAL PARK

last to close

Paseo de Peralta at Palace Ave. One block East of the Plaza May 16-17, Sept 19-20, Oct 3-4, 2015 Saturday & Sunday 10 am to 5 pm

kids love Fun.

www.SantaFeArtistsMarket.com

- Celebrate the Season -

Peyote Bird Designs

parents love free. Two MounTainS. MoRE wayS To Ski FREE Sipapu proudly welcomes Pajarito Mountain to its family of ski areas! This winter, families can enjoy the combined 81 trails, 10 lifts, nearly 1,000 acres and the best deals in the Rockies at these familyfriendly mountains. Visit our websites to learn how to score FREE lift tickets, FREE ski school lessons, FREE lodging* and more.

2014 HOLIDAY SALES

50-70% off on one-of-a-kind, samples, closeouts, and more

sipapunm.com

SKIPAJARITO.COM

WWW.THEPOWERPASS.COM

sipapu is 20 miles south of taos • pajarito is 5 miles west of los alamos

December | 5-6 & 12-13 | 10-5pm 675 Harkle Road, Santa Fe, NM www.peyotebird.com

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MORNING

TUESDAY

TUESDAY

MONDAY

Visit nmparks.com for our winter event calendar.

THURSDAY

THURSDAY

WEDNESDAY

Whether you ski, ice fish, snow shoe or hike, state parks are beautiful settings for winter adventures. Plan an adventure at a state park near you.

FRIDAY

l & % ( F

FRIDAY

Winter Fun at New Mexico State Parks!

SATURDAY

AR P E S TAT

SATURDAY

M

ICO

KS

NEW

EX

WINTER ART CLASSES 2015

R OF

OF

IF CIAL SPONSO

cLaSSeS

WEDNESDAY

WEEK Week CLASSES

MONDAY

Week cLaSSeS 8 TO 10

MORNING Still Life

Painting and Drawing

Kevin Gorges 9:30 am-12:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 12 – March 16

Watercolor & Oil

AFTERNOON AFTERNOON Figure Drawing

Kevin Gorges 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95* Jan. 12 – March 16

EVENING EVENING Drawing

Beginning & Intermediate

Richard Guzman 6:00 pm - 8:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 12 – March 16

Oil Painting

Lee Rommel 9:30 am-12:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 13 – March 17

Michael McGuire 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 13 – March 17

TO BE ANNOUNCED

Portrait

Pastel Painting

Watercolor & Oil

Drawing & Painting

Roberta Remy 9:30 am-12:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95* Jan. 14 – March 18

Watercolor & Oil

James Roybal 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 14 – March 18

Oil Painting

Lee Rommel 6:00 pm – 8:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 14 – March 18

Expression

Through Watercolor

Lee Rommel 9:30 am-12:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 15 – March 19

Michael McGuire 1:30 pm – 4:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 15 – March 19

Christy Henspetter 6:00 pm - 9:00pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 15 – March 19

Watercolor

Mixed Media

* + model fee

Collage

Mell Feltman 9:30 am-12:30 pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 16 – March 20

Darlene Mc Elroy 1:30 pm – 4:30pm 10 weeks $209.95 Jan. 16 – March 20

Oil Painting

Register EARLY!

Richard Guzman 9:30 am-1:30 pm 8 weeks $209.95 Jan. 17 – March 7

ValdesArt Workshops.com

* + model fee

allclasses classes++tax tax all enrollearly early enroll

10% Student Discount On Art Supplies

Give the Gift of Art! Gift Certificates Available!

Give the Gift of Art! Gift Certificates Available! 1006 Marquez Place Santa Fe 87505 Art Supplies Art Classes

Art Supplies Art Classes

1006 Marquez Place Santa Fe 87505

(505) 982-0017 • valdesartschool@qwestoffice.net

150 Washington Ave. • Santa Fe • 505.983.9103

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 37

BELT BUCKLES + JEWELRY + GIFTS 111 OLD SANTA FE TRAIL | SANTA FE, NM 87501 505.986.9115 | INQUIRE@JOHNRIPPEL.COM JOHNRIPPEL.COM

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PHOTO COURTESY BOBCAT PASS WILDERNESS ADVENTURES

SNOWMOBILING 101

Everything you need to know about the most underrated way to get outside this winter BY WHITNEY SPIVEY The biggest misconception about snowmobiling? It’s not always about going fast, says Jason Akerson of Red River Sled Shed, a snowmobile touring company based 105 miles northeast of Santa Fe. “It’s a good way to get up into the mountains in the winter when there’s not really another way to do that.” Perhaps that’s why Akerson has been in business since 1986 and says Northern New Mexico — places such as Red River, Taos, Angel Fire and Chama — is preferable for snowmobiling over his native Minnesota. “Up north, we’d get decent snow, but during that whole time it’d be 20 below zero,” he remembers. “In Red River, we have great snow, beautiful scenery — as good of scenery as you’ll find anywhere in the world — and our weather is pretty darn nice. It rarely gets colder than the mid-teens.” That combination of beautiful landscapes and bearable temps makes snowmobiling a good activity for families because all ages can participate. “Sixty-year-olds might not ski, and it’s hard to get a toddler out on the snow,” Akerson says. “But for snowmobiling, age doesn’t matter. It’s a good family sport that everyone can enjoy together, and that’s what we’re after.” Of course, to actually drive the machine, most Sled Shed riders must

be 16 or older (although state law is only 6 years old). “A snowmobile by nature is a pretty easy machine to operate,” says Akerson, who owns touring machines that can cruise comfortably with one or two people. “Give it gas to go; if you want to stop, tap a brake” — those are the basic instructions that get Akerson’s clients to the top of 11,249-foot Greenie Peak during a 2.5-hour or half-day trip. “From there you can see Angel Fire ski area, you’re looking down at the top of Red River — you’re basically on top of the world,” he says. “It’s not something most people would hike up.” And don’t think because you aren’t hiking you aren’t getting a workout. “Snowmobiling is an extremely rider-active sport,” says Marc Hildesheim, Off Highway Vehicles (OHV) program manager with the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish. “Your body movements help decide where the machine will go, so it is a great physical exercise, especially during those winter months when many of us tend to be less active.” Snowmobiling also, of course, allows you to hike or snowshoe farther afield and experience winter in places not easily accessible by car or skis. “There is a unique beauty to the outdoors when it is covered in snow,” Hildesheim says. “Places you enjoy all summer look very different in the winter — the scenery is fantastic when you are out on a snowmobile.”

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 39

TOUR OPERATORS RED RIVER BOBCAT PASS WILDERNESS ADVENTURES

COURTESY BOBCAT PASS WILDERNESS ADVENTURES

1670 N.M. 38; 575-754-2769 www.bobcatpass.com 1 hour: $70 single, $95 double 2 hours: $95 single, $135 double 10-percent discount for six machines or more; kids ages 3-5 ride free.

RED RIVER OFFROAD

FAQS Prior to each outing, Jason Akerson of Red River Sled Shed gives his clients a 20-minute orientation about the do’s and don’ts of the sport. Here are the answers to some of the most common questions he is asked: When should I arrive? Make tour reservations at least two weeks in advance, and then arrive about 30 minutes before your tour. You’ll have to complete some paperwork, get dressed and learn how to operate the machine. How old do I have to be to operate a snowmobile? Riders 6 and older may operate a snowmobile on public land, although most tour operators require their riders to be 16, with a valid driver’s license. What should I wear? Warm clothes, similar to what you’d wear for skiing. A breathable but also windproof jacket and pants with wicking base layers (not cotton!) underneath will help retain heat. Hats, gloves, sunglasses, wool socks and waterproof shoes are also recommended. Call your outfitter to see if suits and boots are provided or available for rent. Is any equipment required by law? Helmets and eye protection are required for riders 18 and younger, although some operators require all riders to wear them. What safety concerns should I have? “A snowmobile is a little different than any other vehicle,” Akerson says. “You’re out in three to

four feet of snow, so it’s easy to get stuck, and snow and ice don’t necessarily handle like a dirt road.” Don’t ride fast in unfamiliar territory, as there might be obstacles under the snow. “Everything up there is white, so you don’t have the contrast.” What if I want to go solo? To legally operate their machines on public lands sans a tour operator, New Mexico residents must have their snowmobiles registered with the Motor Vehicle Division. Non-residents who do not have proof of a valid off-highway vehicle (OHV) registration from another state must obtain a New Mexico use permit, available at www.b4uride.com. Solo riders 18 and younger must complete a certified OHV course and obtain a safety permit, which can be done at www.snowmobilecourse. com. Students can find New Mexico–specific training information and OHV laws at www. b4uride.com. Always ride at a safe speed with a buddy, but if you must go alone, be sure to pack a first-aid kit, snow shovel, water, food and extra clothing layers. Be respectful of wildlife and private land, and avoid non-motorized areas (marked by signs). A complete brochure of snowmobiling rules can be found at www.wildlife.state.nm.us/ohv/ohv.html. Violations can result in fines of $71 to $450. Whitney Spivey is a writer based in Santa Fe. This winter she’s hoping to claim third title as the New Mexico women’s snowshoe racing state champion and then compete in the national championships in Wisconsin in March.

4 0 WINTERLIFE 2 014 -15

500 E. Main St. 575-754-6335, www.redriveroffroad.com 2 hours: $89-$125 single, $99-$135 double

RED RIVER SLED SHED 616 W. Main St. 800-395-0121 www.redrivernm.com/sledshed/snow-go.html 2 hours: $80 single, $95 double 3.5 hours: $125 single, $150 double

ANGEL FIRE ANGEL FIRE EXCURSIONS Frontier Square North Angel Fire Road and N.M. 434 575-377-2799, www.cti-excursions.com 2 hours: $85 single, $120 double

TAOS TAOS SKI VALLEY WILDERNESS ADVENTURES PO Box 2, N.M. 150, Taos Ski Valley 575-751-6051, www.bigaltsv.com 2 hours: $65 adult, $85 adult and child

CHAMA CUMBRES ADVENTURE TOURS N.M. 17, 15 miles north of Chama; 719-376-2161 www.cumbresadventuretours.com 1 hour: $50 single, $80 double 2 hours: $85 single, $120 double Half day: $125 single, $175 double Full day (includes lunch): $185 single, $215 double Riders 16 and younger: $10

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WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 41

TIME + COLD = DANGER STORY BY LYNNE CURTIS GUDES | ILLUSTRATION BY WILLIAM ROTSAERT “I almost froze to death!” is a common refrain, but the truth is, low body temperature (hypothermia) will kill you long before you turn into a human popsicle. About 1,300 people die of hypothermia in the United States each year, and the New Mexico Office of the Medical Investigator lists hypothermia as a factor in 44 deaths in 2012. Between healthy and death, there are all the unpleasant other results — such as frostbite — so it pays to be aware of this winter ailment and to take steps to avoid it. New Mexico has a prime hypothermia climate, with significant variations in daytime and nighttime temperatures. The T-shirt that is adequate on a balmy August afternoon won’t help much when the temperature drops to 45 degrees at night, as it did in August 2014 in Rio Arriba County, or when winter temperatures plunge from a sunny 40 degrees to near zero at night. Lack of awareness of the causes, symptoms and consequences of hypothermia has caused people to wake up dead. Nor do you have to be lost in a snowstorm to die of cold; our bodies are made to operate in a very narrow range of temperature. When core temperatures stray too far outside a narrow band on either side of 98.6 degrees, the resulting problems can be lethal. A public-health study published in 2012 indicates that although slightly more people report to health providers with hyperthermia (overheating of the body) than hypothermia, deaths from cold exposure are eight times more common. The human body works hard to maintain a core temperature of 96.5 to 100 degrees, regardless of the external temperature. In cold environments, blood vessels in the skin constrict so there is less blood flowing near the surface, reducing heat loss from conduction and radiation. Like exercise, shivering produces heat, but it’s an inefficient method of heat production. Shivering uses a lot of energy. When energy is exhausted and core temperature drops below 90 to 92 degrees, shivering stops and it’s an easy downhill slope to death. With responses exhausted, you can die of hypothermia in temperatures as warm as 70 degrees. Because brain function decreases as the body’s core temperature drops, and it’s usually a gradual slide, people may die without realizing they are in trouble. At a core temperature below about 82.5 degrees, your heart begins to flutter and is no longer able to pump blood adequately; coma follows. At a core temperature of 68 degrees, brain function stops and death occurs. Water, wind or direct contact with cold surfaces worsen the situation. Due to confusion caused by cold, a hypothermic hiker or skier may shed jacket and gloves and end up lying on the ground, which will lower body temperature much faster than staying dressed and continuing to move. Lynne Curtis Gudes is an EMT-I, a member of NM1-DMAT (Disaster Medical Assistance Team) and a deputy field investigator for the New Mexico Office of the Medical Investigator. She lives in the winter fastness of the village of Vallecitos.

Symptoms Symptoms of hypothermia include: • confusion and poor decision-making • lack of coordination • shivering (but as hypothermia worsens, shivering stops) • increased heart and breathing rates (mild hypothermia) • decreased blood pressure and decreased heart and breathing rates(severe hypothermia) Frostbite and frostnip (the mildest version of frostbite) may occur because one of the body’s reactions to being cold is to narrow the blood vessels in the extremities and divert blood flow to critical organs like the heart and brain. The lack of blood flow to fingers, toes, nose, lips and other parts that that we may consider important, but Mother Nature doesn’t, can result in tissue damage on a cellular level. Symptoms can range from mild tingling all the way to blistering skin and blackened tissue that will require amputation. Certain medications can increase susceptibility to frostbite, as can peripheral vascular disease, diabetes and smoking, all of which may contribute to reduced hand and foot circulation. A couple of years ago on State Road 111 in Rio Arriba County, we had two separate deaths in the same winter. One person, who was last seen walking along the side of the road, had been drinking and was found shoeless in the snow, beyond reviving. Alcohol causes vasodilatation and can accelerate hypothermia. A person feels warmer in their extremities after consuming alcohol, but that warmth is coming from their core, which will then cool faster. I’ve often wondered where the iconic St. Bernard with a keg of brandy came from; a keg of hot chocolate would be of more benefit. The other death that year was an elderly person living in a trailer with inadequate heat or insulation. He went to sleep and didn’t wake up.

Prevention Always carry extra clothing when hiking, skiing or engaging in other outdoor activities. Depending on the season and terrain, anything from an extra jacket to dry socks and mittens can be invaluable. • Mittens are better than gloves; consider both. • If you get wet, get dry ASAP. • Alcohol makes things worse. • Drink warm fluids (this is where that St. Bernard with a keg of hot cocoa would be handy). • In mild cases of frostbite/frostnip, don’t rub the affected area. Warm air, warm (not hot) water and getting out of the cold are best. See a doctor as soon as possible.

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WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 43

WINTER FESTIVAL 2014 CAROLS+ LULLABIES

ENDINGS+ BEGINNINGS

DECEMBER 16, 18, 19, 20 @ 8 p.m.

DECEMBER 27 @ 4 p.m. & 8 p.m.

DECEMBER 21 @ 4 p.m.

DECEMBER 28 @ 4 p.m.

DECEMBER 22 @ 8 p.m.

DECEMBER 29, 30, 31 @ 8 p.m.

holiday music from around the world Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis, Santa Fe

Immanuel Presbyterian Church, Albuquerque Cristo Rey Church, Santa Fe

CHRISTMAS+ CABARET

chilling with VOASIS The Lodge at Santa Fe

a benefit for the desert chorale with sarah weiler + jay hill

DECEMBER 9 @ 6 p.m.

Inn & Spa at Loretto, Santa Fe

The Lodge at Santa Fe The Lodge at Santa Fe

DECEMBER 23 @ 8 p.m.

Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis, Santa Fe

For more details on programs or to purchase tickets, please visit our website at WWW.DESERTCHORALE.ORG or call our box office at (505) 988–2282.

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A New MexicAN HolidAy | 2013 PHOTO CONTEST WiNNERS

#1 Reader’s

Choice

GeRald BaCa

BEST OF SHOW

Farolitos con la estrella de Belén

VicTOria rOdriGuEz

Feliz Navidad Santuario

#2 Reader’s

Choice

Santa Fe New Mexican readers submitted hundreds of original photos to our holiday photo contest last year, helping us to showcase the spectacular array of traditions and beauty that define “A New Mexican Holiday.” We’re delighted to share the winning entries with you in Winterlife as we approach this year’s holiday season.

GeRald BaCa

Portales y luminarias

#3 Reader’s

Choice

runnEr-uP

LOuiS STranEy

CReS aRCHUleTa

a Santa Fe Christmas

Untitled

The Santa Fe New Mexican

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 45

Left, Revolution Bakery, pumpkin cinnamon roll (with icing) and egg and cheese muffin Right, Cheesesmongers; A selection of classic cheeses from Cheesemongers provides hearty, feasting fare.

HEARTY feasting fare STORY BY ERIN BROOKS | PHOTOS BY KITTY LEAKEN For those of us living in the high desert, where the growing season is glorious but short, winter means we bid adieu to some of our favorite produce: We’ll have to wait until next year to enjoy fresh local lettuces, berries and summer vegetables. But the first hard frost and dusting of snow doesn’t mean the end of fresh food in Santa Fe. Local restaurant owners are committed to providing fresh and organic food year-round. Instead of spring onions, we enjoy local fennel. Grass-fed meat from ranches around New Mexico takes center stage on winter menus. Chefs and bakers make everything from pasta to fresh bread from scratch. Food integrity is a vital part of Santa Fe’s culinary scene year-round, and there’s something for every meal and budget, whether you’re looking to start your day with a light breakfast or sit down to dinner and wine with friends. Bon appétit!

Breakfast on a winter morning If you’re looking for a small bite to start the day with, a trip to Revolution Bakery, Santa Fe’s only 100-percent gluten-free bakery, is in order. Everything here is made from scratch daily, from cakes and pies to muffins, scones and bread. As a participant in the Albuquerque and Los Alamos farmers markets, Revolution bakery spends the summer and autumn months trading baked goods for local farmers’ fruits and vegetables. During the off-season you can still depend on Revolution for fresh, local food. Try their egg muffins made with local, organic eggs and Hatch green chile. Breakfast dough placed in a muffin pan is stuffed with egg and chile and baked in the oven. This is a dish I don’t mind waking up to! Also try Revolution’s homemade sticky buns, which are topped with pecans from Pecos Diamond Pecans in Artesia, New Mexico, or the French toast made with Revolution’s fresh-baked bread and local apples. If you’re looking for breakfast with a focus on local, make sure to pay

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Left, Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen, soup and salad combo, turkey tortilla soup with green godess salad with a matcha latte Right, Fire and Hops, green papaya salad with red onion, dried shrimp, peanuts and toasted rice, with a La Cumbre Expedition India Pale Ale

Santa Fe restaurants emphasize healthy dishes with local, organic ingredients Joe’s Dining a visit, a restaurant known for its passion for local and

sustainable food. The list of local ingredients at Joe’s is impressive: Lamb, bison, chicken livers, chile, eggs, flour, feta cheese, fruits and even some of the wine and beers served at Joe’s are all from our state. The restaurant even makes its own mozzarella cheese! I love to visit Joe’s for a breakfast burrito made with organic eggs, local potatoes and, of course, local chile. Even the tortillas are from Albuquerque. It’s a classic, delicious and truly New Mexican dish. Also be sure to try the blue corn pancakes. Santa Fe Culinaria makes the blue corn pancake mix, and the fluffy cakes are served up with ham, bacon and local jam. If you happen to pop in for lunch, branch out and try the grass-fed liver and onions, with liver from Sweet Grass Cooperative in Colorado. This co-op is composed of ranchers who have a passion for the land and the animals, and many of the member ranches are certified organic. The liver and onions will be served with winter vegetables from the farmers market, like winter squash, pumpkin and beets.

A tour of healthy breakfasts in Santa Fe wouldn’t be complete without a trip to Café Pasqual’s, where chef and owner Katharine Kagel has been a vocal proponent of all things local and organic for the past 35 years. Pasqual’s purchases products from certified organic farmers and producers who don’t use synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, antibiotics, hormones or GMOs. This tiny café embodies the concept of food integrity, and the time and energy Kagel spends sourcing food for Pasqual’s demonstrates her dedication. For example, the restaurant uses only Askinosie chocolate, a small-batch, bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturer located in Missouri that sources 100 percent of its beans directly from the farmers. Nearly everything at Pasqual’s, from beef and pork to sugar, flour and spices, is organic. Even the wine list offers only wines that are sustainable, organic or produced biodynamically. Are you vegan, vegetarian or gluten free? Not to worry, Pasqual’s will adjust many of their menu items for you. This winter, try the eggs benedict with bacon from Red Mesa Meats,

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 47

Left, Arroyo Vino, handmade papardelle, rabbit confit, wild mushrooms, pearl onions, parmigiano Reggiano Right, butternut squash angolotti, crispy prosciutto, sage, brown butter, roasted pine nuts. available at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. “It’s some of the best bacon I’ve ever had by far,” Kagel says, adding that the hollandaise for the dish is homemade using organic butter, lemons and eggs. I can’t think of a better breakfast for a cold desert morning.

Local lunch Izanami, the new, beautiful, izakaya-style Japanese restaurant at

Ten Thousand Waves, boasts 90-percent organic produce, as well as non-GMO organic soy and locally raised chicken, beef and pork. The restaurant introduced a new chef in September, David Padberg, who worked the past 12 years in Portland, Oregon, and brings with him a strong knowledge of sourcing locally. This winter season, he’ll be serving up Lone Mountain Wagyu beef from Golden, New Mexico. Raw slices of the premium Wagyu New York strip are presented tableside along with a hot stone, which guests use to sear the beef themselves. Served alongside the beef is an array of sauces including freshly grated wasabi root, soy sauce and momiji oroshi, a mix of grated daikon radish and red chile peppers. Harry’s Roadhouse is an old favorite offering fresh, organic ingredients this winter. The restaurant uses organic eggs and squeezes its own fresh juices, as well as offering organic oatmeal and homemade granola during breakfast. For lunch at Harry’s, try the buffalo burger, which uses locally raised buffalo. For an extra boost, have it with the

organic New Mexico gala apple salad, made with blue cheese, walnuts, celery and a sweet-and-sour poppy-seed dressing. Be sure to check out the daily specials, which emphasize local and homemade ingredients and change according to what’s available. Although relatively new, Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen has been an amazing addition to the Santa Fe culinary scene with its focus on high-quality, nourishing food. Owners Soma Franks and Fiona Wong are proponents of local and organic ingredients. They participate in Santa Fe’s Farm to Table restaurant program and use the restaurant as a drop point for a local community-supported farm. A grow bed on the back patio provides fresh herbs and edible flowers. They also make some items entirely from scratch, like their delicious 100-percent organic gRAWnola, which is made using sprouted live-food granola and buckwheat, pumpkin seeds, goji berries and coconut topped with sugarfree almond milk. The pair also mills their own flour each day, which they use in pasta dishes and fluffy pancakes. This winter, try Sweetwater’s spicy lamb burger, made with local lamb from Talus Wind Ranch Heritage Meats. Have it with soup or salad, both of which are made using any available local ingredients. It’s a lunch that will leave your stomach, and soul, feeling nurtured.

Dinner by the fire Another new spot and an instant favorite is Fire & Hops, the gastropub

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Dr. Field Good pizza in the fire roasting oven

recently opened by Josh Johns, formerly of Second Street Brewery, and Joel Coleman, back in town from a stint in San Francisco. Coleman is committed to using local ingredients for his menu, and Johns is equally enthusiastic about local tap beers, offering an IPA from La Cumbre, varied selections from Bosque Brewing Company and local ciders. All the lamb for Fire & Hops comes from Shepherd’s Lamb, located 100 miles from Santa Fe at the foot of the San Juan Mountains. It’s organic and, Coleman says, some of the best lamb available in New Mexico. The restaurant uses fresh fruits and vegetables from the farmers market, depending on what’s in season. Make sure to try the burger — with a tall glass of beer, of course! Burgers here are made with beef from a co-op of New Mexico ranchers, so you can be sure your burger is completely local. It’s topped with caramelized onions and a bun from Sage Bakehouse, itself a great spot for high-quality baked goods — all the bread is naturally leavened, handformed, free of additives, slowly fermented and baked directly on the hearth. This burger is simple, delicious and is quickly becoming one of my favorites in Santa Fe! A great place to have dinner, especially when there’s snow on the ground, is Terra Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado. Although it’s only 15 minutes from downtown Santa Fe, Terra feels like a world away from the buzz and hum of downtown. The elegant dining room with its cozy fireplace and long rows of windows

overlooking the mountains is the perfect spot to warm up on a cold night. Likewise, chef Andrew Cooper’s menu is the perfect addition to our list of restaurants that focus on fresh, local ingredients — not to mention his food is delicious! Cooper is an adamant proponent of local ingredients, and you can find him at the farmers market in Santa Fe twice a week year-round, searching for all things local to incorporate into his menu. Look for the lamb with Parmesan polenta and wild mushrooms, with lamb from Naturally New Mexico Food Products in Rio Arriba County. Mushrooms are from Freshies of New Mexico, a certified organic farm and participant in the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Cooper uses winter vegetables he can find at the market to round out this dish. Also worth mentioning is the chicken with spiced pumpkin and bacon bread pudding, winter vegetables and bourbon sauce. The chicken comes from Pollo Real, the first certified organic poultry farm in the United States. The pumpkin is from Gemini Farm in Las Trampas and Cooper uses vegetables that are on offer at the market. Even the bourbon is local, from either KGB spirits or Santa Fe Spirits. Dinner at Terra is heaven for any locavore. Another fun spot to check out for dinner is Arroyo Vino, located just outside Las Campanas. Chef Mark Connell is making some of the most innovative and delicious food in Santa Fe right now. Make sure to check out any of his pasta dishes — all the pasta from Connell’s kitchen is homemade fresh each day. He uses “00” flour (better known as doppio

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 49

The Real Butcher Shop, owner Tom Delehenty with cured bacon Fire and Hops, Josh Johns at the tap

Revolution Bakery

1291 San Felipe Ave., 988-2100 www.revolutionbakery.com

Joe’s Dining

2801 Rodeo Road, 471-3800 www.joesdining.com

Café Pasqual’s

zero in Italian), a finely ground flour commonly used in Italy for making fresh pasta. Eggs for the pasta are local, and if you’re vegan, Connell can make vegan pasta fresh on the spot. Try his rabbit confit with pappardelle — savory, full of flavor and great for a winter evening.

The last bite Also don’t overlook spots like Vinaigrette, where owner Erin Wade grows produce year-round in the 1,200-square-foot greenhouse at her Los Portales farm in Nambé. Try the spinach-mushroom salad with sautéed mushrooms, bacon, red onion and hardboiled eggs — chickens from Wade’s farm provide the restaurant with fresh eggs daily. Be sure to check out Dr. Field Goods Kitchen, where chef Josh Gerwin uses farmers market ingredients and local meats. The enchiladas are to die for, made with local free-range chicken or buffalo, New Mexico red or green chile and local cheese. Need a meal on the run? Bang Bite Filling Station Food Truck is a great stop for lunch. Salsas are homemade, with ingredients roasted on site. Try a bowl of black bean and turkey chili, with beans from the farmers market and turkey from Los Lunas, New Mexico. If you feel like staying in on an especially cold night, Santa Fe is host to two new markets for high-quality meats and cheeses, The Real Butcher Shop and Cheesemongers of Santa Fe. The Real Butcher Shop features grass-finished, organic and heritage meats and charcuterie and is Santa Fe’s first whole-carcass, farm-direct, producer-owned butcher shop. Cheesemongers of Santa Fe is a specialized grocery store offering more than 100 cheeses, many of which are domestic. Small-scale and farmstead goods are emphasized, and the shop works closely with local and regional producers to stock local products ranging from mustards and chutneys to honey and pickles. It’s winter. The trees may be bare, the ground hard as stone and the skies a bit grayer, but there’s no shortage of fresh, healthy food in Santa Fe, a food lover’s paradise all year long. Erin Brooks, a freelance food and wine writer and certified sommelier, runs the wine program at Café Pasqual’s and works as a sommelier and wine educator for private clients.

121 Don Gaspar, 983-9340 www.pasquals.com

Izanami Izakaya at Ten Thousand Waves

3451 Hyde Park Road, 982-9304 www.izanamisantafe.com

Harry’s Roadhouse

96 Old Las Vegas Hwy., 989-4629 www.harrysroadhousesantafe.com

Sweetwater Harvest Kitchen 1512 Pacheco St., 795-7383 www.sweetwatersf.com

Fire & Hops

222 N. Guadalupe St., 954-1635 www.fireandhopsgastropub.com

Sage Bakehouse

535 Cerrillos Road, 820-7243 www.sagebakehouse.com

Terra Restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado 198 N.M. 592, 946-5800 www.fourseasons.com/santafe/dining/restaurants/terra

Arroyo Vino

218 Camino La Tierra, 983-2100 www.arroyovino.com

Vinaigrette

709 Don Cubero Alley, 820-9205 www.vinaigretteonline.com

Dr. Field Goods Kitchen

2860 Cerrillos Road, 471-0043 www.drfieldgoods.com

Bang Bite Filling Station Food Truck 502 Old Santa Fe Trail, 469-2345 www.bangbitesf.com

The Real Butcher Shop

907 W. Alameda St., 780-8067 www.therealbutchershop.com

Cheesemongers of Santa Fe

130 E. Marcy St., 405-642-8782 www.cheesemongersofsantafe.com

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Missoni, Home Treasures, Libeco, Brahms Mount, Bella Notte, Gretel Underwood Throws and Missoni, Home Treasures, Libeco. Sergio Martinez Rugs

Stop in and Warm Up to Our Winter Deals!

Photo credit: David Marlow and Parasol Productions

Photo credit: David Marlow and Parasol Productions

Gretel Underwood Throws and Sergio Martinez Rugs.

Customorders ordersavailable available Custom

Sanbusco Center •• 500 500 Montezuma Sanbusco Market Market Center Montezuma 982-3298 • 10-6 Mon-Sat 12-5 Sun • www.pandorasantafe.com

982-3298 • 10-6 Mon-Sat 12-5 Sun • www.pandorasantafe.com

Your premier Winter Sports store!

Coro de Cámara presents our Silver Anniversary Season

celebrating 25 years of music-making Chorus and Soloists

Featuring Cantata 140, “Sleepers, Wake,” by J.S. Bach with works by Handel, Duru�lé, Paulus, Mathias, Scarlatti & Byrd

Friday, November 21, 7 pm

Bethlehem Lutheran Church, Los Alamos Volkl Marker Dalbello

Saturday, November 22, 7 pm

The Church of the Holy Faith, Santa Fe Donations gratefully accepted at the door

Ski and Snowboard Equipment Ski Clothing | Foot Wear | Sports Wear

121 Sandoval St. | Santa Fe, NM 87501 | 505-983-5155 Hours Mon–Sat 9:30 am-6 pm | Sun 11 am-5 pm www.alpinesports-santafe.com

Nylea Butler-Moore, Artistic Director

corodecamara-nm.org

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 51

Nancy Brzezinski, Accompanist

SPORTS BARS

Catching the BIG GAME STORY BY CHRIS JACKSON | PHOTOS BY LUIS SÁNCHEZ SATURNO Santa Fe is a city known for many things. Art, culture, one-of-a-kind shopping, great dining and history are what draws most people here. Yet many visitors come seeking more than museums and art galleries and mourn missing broadcasts of major sporting events. And for locals, whose “better halves” have threatened divorce if “the guys” are asked over for one more game, what’s to do? While the city is not a place overflowing with sports bars, there are some great places to watch “the big game” and enjoy a good meal and maybe a pint or two of the area’s many outstanding craft beers. And stay married. The best place to start is Junction (530 S. Guadalupe St., 988-7222, www. junctionsantafe.com), which is located in the Railyard. A locally owned and operated bar/restaurant, Junction boasts 14 hi-def televisions for plenty of viewing options, including one TV out on its comfortable patio. It offers a full menu and an impressive beer list. Three of Santa Fe Brewing’s finest (Happy Camper IPA, Pale Ale, Dirty Blonde) are on tap, plus Elevated IPA from Albuquerque’s award-winning La Cumbre Brewing Company. There are breakfast specials on weekends during football season, plus Bloody Mary specials. Beer specials run during Thursday Night and Monday Night Football, along with special $1 tacos on Monday. Televisions can be reserved in advance for a specific game, though not on Sundays or during major sports championships (Super Bowl, college football playoffs, etc.). For those who would rather stay closer to the Plaza, a good option is Thunderbird Bar & Grill (50 Lincoln Ave., 490-6550, www. thunderbirdsantafe.com). When the weather is good, the spacious outside deck is a nice place to sit and enjoy a meal. However, there are no TVs out there, so head inside to catch the game during the winter. There are four TVs around the sizable bar area inside, plus two more in the private room that can be reserved in advance. Thunderbird has an extensive menu mixing New Mexican and more traditional American pub fare, including nachos, chicken wings, calamari, tostadas, shrimp, beef sliders and more. The beer list is loaded with standout craft taps from around the country. Santa Fe Brewing’s Pale Ale and Nut Brown are joined by La Cumbre’s Elevated IPA and South Side Pilsner, plus Rio Grande’s Route 66 Lager as the local entries. Also on the Plaza is the Draft Station (60 E. San Francisco St., Suite 313, 983-6443), which features three TVs in the game room and one at the bar. The lure of the Draft Station is all New Mexico–made beers on tap, with a rotating selection from breweries such as Blue Corn, Bosque, Chama River, La Cumbre and more. There is no food at Draft Station beyond some snacks; however, patrons can order from the neighboring Rooftop Pizzeria and have their pies or slices brought over. Another craft beer–centric place worth visiting is the new Marble Brewery Taproom (505 Cerrillos Road, Suite 105A, 983-6259, www. marblebrewery.com/santa-fe-tap-room/), located in the LUNA Building. Twelve of the Albuquerque-based brewery’s beers are always on tap, including six rotating seasonal taps. There is no food on site beyond some basic snacks, though patrons are allowed to bring their own food. Marble

The beers on tap at Thunderbird Bar & Grill Facing page clockwise from top left, R.J. Schneider, bartender at Thunderbird Bar & Grill; Junction; Angelica Vialpando watches a football game at The Blue Corn Cafe on October 13, 2014; Andrew Delnick, left, and Mitzy Florian play shuffle board at the Draft Station

even encourages customers to bring dishes to a Monday-night potluck with football on the two TVs above the bar. Another spot worthy of a visit is Rio Chama (925-0765, www. riochamasteakhouse.com), which has a handful of TVs in its comfortable bar and an excellent selection of food. For anyone staying farther away from downtown, or perhaps those willing to drive a little way, there is the Locker Room Sports Bar & Grill (2841 Cerrillos Road, 473-5259). Tucked away in a small shopping center on the west side of Cerrillos, the Locker Room features three huge projection screens (9 by 12 feet), plus five TVs around the bar. There are four pool tables, with pool leagues playing on Mondays, plus poker on Tuesdays. There is a stage for music or a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights. The kitchen serves standard bar food, including burgers and wings. The beers on tap are a mix of craft and macro brews. Farther south on Cerrillos is Blue Corn Brewery (4056 Cerrillos Road, 438-1800, www.bluecorncafe.com), which boasts seven TVs in the bar area and plenty of quality craft brews on tap. There is even an NFL game guide on Sundays so patrons can know which TV their game will be shown on; it’s located to the left of the bar. Blue Corn offers a full menu of American and New Mexican food. The beer selection is outstanding, led by the Road Runner IPA, End of the Trail Brown Ale and Gold Medal Oatmeal Stout. And for those who prefer the comfort of a familiar national chain, there’s Buffalo Wild Wings (3501 Zafarano Road, 471-3353). Like most of its locations, there’s a plethora of TVs—60, to be exact!—and a full menu and bar. Chris Jackson is a freelance writer based in Albuquerque. He covers the Albuquerque Isotopes, UNM Lobos and high-school sports while also writing about New Mexico craft beer at nmdarksidebrewcrew.com.

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WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 53

Tracy Rocca Clearing, 2013 Walnut oils & alkyd on polyester over panel 24 x 24 inches Tony DeLap Pips Eclipse 1982 Watercolor on paper 14 x 11 inches

LEW ALLEN RAILYARD GALLERY Jennifer Schlesinger Hanson Utopia 6, 2014

VERVE GALLERY

CHARLOTTE JACKSON FINE ART

PAINTING THE TOWN BY KRIS OTA

DAVID RICHARD GALLERY

TAI MODERN

Santa Fe winters are easy, relative to much of the country. The sun shines here pretty much every day, and except for the occasional ultracold snap, a person can usually brave the brisk, piñon-scented air armed with a fleece jacket and sunglasses. One way to enjoy these bright winter days is to stroll the city’s streets for your dose of vitamin D and warm up by popping into some of Santa Fe’s abundant art galleries. The variety of contemporary art on display this season is impressive — and you’re sure to find something to inspire your inner artist.

544 S. Guadalupe St., 983-9555

1601 Paseo de Peralta, 984-1387

exhibits the abstract expressionist oil paintings of Eugene Newmann, another established artist and one of the pioneers of the Santa Fe art scene. Selections: Then and Now runs through Nov. 22.

is holding its midwinter show, Embellished (Dec. 12– Jan. 17). These new mixed-media works by Nancy Youdelman include “shoes” and cast “dresses,” which are intricately layered with found objects. Her pieces are rich with a sense of the passage of time, albeit joyfully spent.

Railyard district galleries CHARLOTTE JACKSON FINE ART 554 S. Guadalupe St., 989-8688 www.charlottejackson.com

features the paintings and sculptures of SoCal abstractionist (and accomplished magician) Tony DeLap, whose long career in illusionism presents art that is not quite as simple as it seems: Edges may move in unpredictable directions and paintings may turn out to be sculptures. DeLap’s Selected Works from Fifty Years of Making Art runs through Nov. 17.

www.davidrichardgallery.com

LEWALLEN GALLERIES

www.taigallery.com

1613 Paseo de Peralta, 988-3250

WILLIAM SIEGAL GALLERY

In each of Tracy Rocca’s new neoimpressionist paintings, the artist has applied many thin layers of pigment to create a luminous, restful glow. Mindclearing available through Dec. 7.

540 S. Guadalupe St., 820-3300

www.lewallencontemporary.com

PHOTO-EYE GALLERY

www.williamsiegal.com

presents Carlos Estrada-Vega’s About 20,000 Tones (Nov. 14-Jan. 6; reception Nov. 29, 5–7 p.m.). Estrada-Vega’s artworks, each composed of many small painted pieces wood (sometimes thousands), explore the relationship between color and form.

541 S. Guadalupe St., 988-5152 www.photoeye.com

finishes its exhibition on Nov. 15 of Julie Blackmon: Homegrown, with the artist’s surreal yet recognizable — and often quite funny — large-scale color photographs of domestic life. Next up is an exhibit of Mitch Dobrowner’s ethereal black-and-white landscapes (Nov. 21–Jan. 7). Also, check out the Photo-eye Bookstore and Project Space (376 Garcia St.) for Alejandro Cartagena — The Car Poolers (through Jan. 3), which takes on the invisibility of Mexican construction workers.

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ZANE BENNETT CONTEMPORARY ART 435 S. Guadalupe St., 982-8111

www.zanebennettgallery.com

has a full lineup this season. Catch ¡Saludos, Barcelona! 50 Years of Polígrafa Prints (through Nov. 22), which includes work by the influential Helen Frankenthaler, followed by the ZBCA Annual Group Show (Nov. 28–Jan. 19; opening reception Nov. 28, 5–7 p.m.). Under 35: Part III runs from Jan. 30 to Feb. 21, and Robert Rauschenberg: Soviet/American Array,

Rex Ray Untitled #4308, 2014 Mixed-media collage, resin on panel 16 x 16 inches

Daniel Kosharek February 19, 2012 Acrylic on panel 18 x 18 inches

TURNER CARROLL GALLERY

PATINA GALLERY

HUNTER KIRKLAND CONTEMPORARY 200 Canyon Road, 984-2111 Robert Rauschenberg Soviet / American Array lll, ed. 18/57, 1990 Intaglio in 9 colors 87 3/4 x 52 1/4 inches

ZANE BENNETT CONTEMPORARY ART from the artist’s peacekeeping Overseas Cultural Interchange project, sends winter packing (Feb. 27– March 20).

Canyon Road galleries CHIAROSCURO CONTEMPORARY ART 702½ Canyon Road, 992-0711

www.chiaroscurosantafe.com

holds its Fall Group Show through Nov. 22. This selection of new work by gallery artists includes photography by Bonnie Bishop, mixed-media paintings by Lawrence Fodor and a wide selection of recently imported Australian Aboriginal artists’ vibrant abstract acrylic “maps” of their homeland. The gallery’s Holiday Group Show runs from Nov. 28 to Jan. 3, with a special focus on new work by Emmi Whitehorse, whose color-saturated oil and chalk paintings will set you dreaming.

GEBERT CONTEMPORARY 558 Canyon Road, 992-1100

www.gebertcontemporary.com

does represent the occasional emerging artist, although it specializes in the work of established and mid-career contemporary abstract painters and sculptors from Europe, Asia, and North and Central America. Spanish sculptor Xavier Mascaro shows his figurative iron and ceramic pieces through Nov. 30.

www.hunterkirklandcontemporary.com

presents new Northern New Mexican landscapes by painter Gregory Frank Harris (Nov. 14–30; opening reception Nov. 14, 5–7 p.m.). Harris’s atmospheric landscapes walk the line between abstraction and representation.

NUART GALLERY 670 Canyon Road, 988-3888 www.nuartgallery.com

is showing Figurations III: Michael Bergt, John Tarahteeff, Carol Mothner, James Tyler, Vicenzo Calli, Alberto Galvez (through Dec. 7), which includes figurative paintings and drawings from local, national and international artists working in a variety of mediums, including egg tempera with gold leaf.

TURNER CARROLL GALLERY 725 Canyon Road, 986-9800

www.turnercarrollgallery.com

presents Anomaly: Georges Mazilu, running through Dec. 1. Enter the fantasy world of the RomanianFrench artist in this show of new work. Then, from Dec. 8 to Jan. 6, brighten your day with the group show Red, featuring the color and concept of red in the work of Hung Liu, Kate Petley, Rex Ray, Ann Weiner, Greg Murr, Shawn Smith, David Linn and Deborah Oropallo. At the Dec. 12 opening reception (5–7 p.m.), red attire is requested.

painter and sculptor; and his sons, sculptor Arlo and photographer/digital artist Michael. Their holiday show runs for three weeks, beginning in December; call or visit the website for details.

PATINA GALLERY

131 W. Palace Ave., 505-986-3432 www.patina-gallery.com

presents Measure of Days (through Nov. 16), an exhibit by painter Daniel Kosharek, whose acrylic on panel pieces are windows to theater-like scenes expressed with bold brushwork, saturates colors and sheer exuberance.

VERVE GALLERY OF PHOTOGRAPHY 219 E. Marcy St., 982-5009 www.vervegallery.com

is holding a wonderful group show through Jan. 3 with photographers Blue Mitchell, Duane Monczewski, Beth Moon, Jennifer Schlesinger Hanson and Takeshi Shikama, all presenting their varied takes on the theme of landscape. Moon’s sumptuous, otherworldly images of ravens may cause you to reconsider New Mexico’s everyday outlaws.

YARES ART PROJECTS 123 Grant Ave., 984-0044

www.yaresartprojects.com

125 Lincoln Ave., 988-5091

exhibits major works by well-known abstract expressionist and color field artists: Gene Davis, Thomas Downing, Friedel Dzubas, Helen Frankenthaler, Hans Hofmann, Morris Louis, Joan Mitchell, Kenneth Noland, Jules Olitski and Esteban Vicente. The gallery also represents a number of innovative emerging artists. Call or visit the website for details on the current exhibition.

offers a show of new works by the illustrious Namingha family (Tewa/Hopi): patriarch Dan,

Kris Ota is a Santa Fe writer and the editor of The Santa Fe New Mexican’s 2014 Feliz Navidad magazine.

Near the Plaza… NIMAN FINE ART www.namingha.com

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 55

style & flair

PERFORMANCE SANTA FE 2014–15 SEASON

hansel and gretel

hot sardines

Anonymous 4

Susan Graham Recital

Christmas Eve Concert

Les Violons du Roy

On Yoolis Night tuesday, december 9, 2014 | 7:30 pm Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

Tchaikovsky, Gershwin Performance Santa Fe Orchestra Emily Bear, pianist & composer Joseph Illick, conductor wednesday, december 24, 2014 | 5:00 pm family preview at 2:00 Lensic Performing Arts Center

New Year’s Eve Concert

Handel, Beethoven, Lehár, Bruch Performance Santa Fe Orchestra Vadim Gluzman, violinist Ava Pine, soprano Joseph Illick, conductor wednesday, december 31, 2014 | 5:00 pm family preview at 2:00 Lensic Performing Arts Center

Community Opera

Hansel and Gretel friday, january 9, 2015 | 7:00 pm sunday, january 11, 2015 | 2:00 pm TBD

Hot Sardines

Jazz from the 20s, 30s, and 40s wednesday, january 21, 2015 | 7:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

András Schiff, piano

Late works by Haydn, Mozart, and Beethoven tuesday, february 24, 2015 | 7:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center andrás schiff

style & flair

Schumann, Mahler, and more thursday, march 12, 2015 | 6:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

h a i r & na i ls 1 0 1 2 m a rq u ez p l ace # 105a sa n ta f e, n m 8 7 5 0 5 · 505 989 8811

Lully, Haydn with pianist Marc-André Hamelin sunday, march 22, 2015 | 4:00 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

Wu Han & David Finckel

Piano Quartets by Mahler, Schumann, and Brahms Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center with Paul Neubauer and Daniel Hope monday, april 6, 2015 | 7:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center

Takács Quartet

Haydn, Beethoven thursday, april 16, 2015 | 7:30 pm St. Francis Auditorium

é·lan [ey-lahn]; noun, (1877, from Fr. élan -16c.) a combination of style and flair

GL W A Winter Lights Event hair & nails

1 0 1 2 ma rq uez pl ac e # 1 0 5 a s a n ta fe, n m 8 7 5 0 5 · 5 0 5 9 8 9 8 8 1 1

Christian Tetzlaff, violin and Lars Vogt, piano

All Three Brahms Sonatas for Violin and Piano friday, may 8, 2015 | 7:30 pm St. Francis Auditorium

é·lan [ey-lahn]; noun, (1877, from Fr. élan -16c.)

aT SanTa Fe BoTanical a combination of style and flairGarDen

Academy of St. Martin in the Fields Chamber Ensemble Shostakovich, Brahms, Mendelssohn monday, may 11, 2015 | 7:30 pm Lensic Performing Arts Center susan graham

Thursday, Friday & Saturday December 4–January 3 5–8pm, Saturday 5–9pm Also open between Christmas & New Years $8 | $5 members | children 12 & under free Tickets available online or at the door IllumInated domes · santa · CoCoa · Fun For the Whole FamIly!

TicketsSantaFe.org | 505 988 1234 PerformanceSantaFe.org | 505 984 8759

SponSorS:

nedra Matteucci GallerieS S a n Ta F e a n ICoNIk Coffee RoASteRS · SANtAfe.Com

Partially funded by the City of Santa This project is supported in part by New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department Fe Arts Commission of Cultural Affairs, and by the National and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax. Endowment for the Arts.

715 camino lejo · 505.471.9103 · santafebotanicalgarden.org

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DESERT CHORALE

and a medley of classical concerts abound BY CRAIG SMITH Even in Santa Fe, Christmas comes but once a year. Fortunately, all winter long there’s plenty of music and dance to help make, and keep, the holiday spirit alive. From Aspen Santa Fe Ballet’s “The Nutcracker” to Performance Santa Fe’s Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve concerts, from the Santa Fe Symphony’s annual airing of Handel’s “Messiah” to Santa Fe Pro Musica’s weeklong series of baroque Christmas music, there’s something for everyone in the concert hall as well as in the air. The Santa Fe Desert Chorale has had a high profile on the year-end music scene for decades, and it continues the custom in 2014. According to Music Director Joshua Habermann, three different programs will cover the waterfront in terms of repertoire, audience attraction and artistic opportunity. “The main program this year is called Carols and Lullabies,” Habermann said by phone from Dallas, where he is director of the Dallas Symphony Chorus. “It’s the same title we’ve been using for several years now, though the repertoire changes each year. The idea behind it is that the concert has a fair amount of variety in it. Because of it being the holiday time, we draw a more diverse audience than in the summer. So the concept is there’s to be a little bit of something for everyone.” The music is also chosen to suit the formidable talents of the singers and to sound well in the luscious acoustics of the soaring Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, the ensemble’s main performing home. Plenty of planning has gone into the mix, with due attention to what Habermann calls “the choral pillars” that buttress SFDC’s work. “We’re going to do a piece by Renaissance composer Jean Mouton, not a particularly well-known composer, but a beautiful one. We’ll do some 19th-century Romantic music, this time some Mendelssohn, which I love. I always find myself going back to Scandinavian music, so we’ll do some Grieg. And of course, we always do carols. This year, we’ll do Scandinavian carols and also some Spanish carols that have proven popular in New Mexico. And as always, a special setting of ‘Silent Night.’ Finally, we always do a setting of the ‘O Magnum Mysterium’ text, a different one each year. This year we’re going to do one by contemporary American composer Frank La Rocca, a beautiful, meaty piece, about eight minutes long.” And there’s more. Carols and Lullabies also will incorporate some singalongs to favorite holiday melodies such as “The First Nowell” and “Deck the Halls.” He continued, “As you know, many of our audience members are people who sing in choirs, and they always say they’d love the chance to sing in the Desert Chorale. So with this opportunity we say, ‘Here’s your chance.’ Really, the winter time is kind of a populist program that will have familiar fare but also heftier repertoire, so you feel you have a main course to the music.” The other two holiday repertoires lean more to the popular music side of the equation. The first is a Christmas and Cabaret event featuring singers Sarah Weiler and Jay Hill on Dec. 9 at The Inn and Spa at Loretto. The second, Endings and Beginnings, features Santa Fe Desert Chorale’s Voasis, its ensemble of eight pop and jazz singers, in a series of concerts at The Lodge at Santa Fe. “Voasis is really fun,” Habermann said enthusiastically. “We’ve been excited about this since we conceived it a couple of years ago. The question was, How could we break down the boundaries between the classical world and the popular a cappella world? They have existed side by side for so long; they used to be closer together, then for some reason they got separated. But I’ve always loved both; I’ve even sung in both.” Deke Sharon, a friend of Habermann’s growing up, is now one of the movers and shakers in the popular vocal slice-of-the-media world, playing major roles in such programs as The Sing-Off. Habermann went to him when the concept of a separate-but-equal Chorale ensemble for popular music came up. “The best model for us was to try to emulate the Desert Chorale itself,

Desert Chorale performs at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi

which brings some of the best classical ensemble singers in the country together,” Habermann explained. “So we thought, why don’t we expand that? Instead of throwing the regular Desert Chorale singers into the pop-jazzrock ensemble — which might not be comfortable for all of them — why don’t we have the best ensemble singers from around the country for this specialty? That’s the basic idea.” It’s an idea that’s proven very popular, too: From the group’s launch more than a year ago, it’s attracted both established choral patrons and newer audience members who like their vocal jazz both hot and cool. “We’ve found that it’s brought in younger people—but it’s also attracted our core audience,” said Habermann. “Some people say, ‘I really love this, but I got into choral music via classical.’ Others say they’ve had more fun with poprock, but that it’s also helped them appreciate the classical side of our work. So there’s been a lot of crossover, which is great.” Beyond Christmas, Habermann said, the Chorale has several high points coming up before the holidays and after. One comes in February, when the ensemble will perform its recent Dancing the Mystery repertoire at the national conference of the American Choral Directors Association in Salt Lake City. This by-invitation-only prestigious appearance will be preceded by a tour throughout New Mexico and Colorado. And in summer 2015, the repertoire will include gems ranging from Herbert Howells’ “Requiem” on the Great Cathedral Music program to a program of Orthodox music including Byzantine chant and modern Russian religious works. There also is slated a repertoire of music from Venice for eight singers accompanied by lute and a repertoire of English music including Ralph Vaughan Williams’ treasured “Serenade to Music.” “The basic concept is musical excellence above all,” Habermann made clear. “That’s our bottom line. We’re putting the best onstage, whether it’s pop-jazz, whether it’s classical. That’s what we think the Desert Chorale should be known for. And the singers always have a good time, whether it’s in Voasis or the regular Chorale. It’s like being in an all-star game.” For more information on the SFDC holiday season, visit www.desertchorale.org or call 988-2282 Craig Smith is an arts writer, editor and critic. Formerly music critic for The Santa Fe New Mexican, he has followed the local classical music scene for decades.

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 57

CALENDAR OF PERFORMANCES ASPEN SANTA FE BALLET

Gary Thor Wedow

983-5591 www.aspensantafeballet.com “The Nutcracker” Saturday, Dec. 20, 2 and 7:30 p.m.; Sunday, Dec. 21, 1 and 5 p.m. Lensic Performing Arts Center $25-$72 through www.ticketssantafe. org, 988-1234

NEW MEXICO PERFORMING ARTS SOCIETY

474-4513 www.nmperformingartssociety.org Winter Solstice Concert: Performers include New Mexico Bach Chorale, conductor Franz Vote, pianist Nancy Brzezinski and flautist Linda Marianiello. Sunday, Nov. 30, 5:30 p.m. Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel $17.50-$28.50 via Hold My Ticket Box Office, www.holdmyticket.com or 886-1251 Devon Guthrie

L.P. How

Felix Fan

PERFORMANCE SANTA FE 984-8759 www.performancesantafe.org Notes on Music: Johann Strauss, Jr. Joseph Illick’s lecture-recital on “The Waltz King” will be followed by champagne and waltzing—lessons included in the ticket price. Sunday, Nov. 16, 4 p.m. Eldorado Hotel $35 Anonymous 4: On Yoolis Night. A program of medieval carols and motets. Tuesday, Dec. 9, 7:30 p.m. Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi $17-$65 Christmas Eve with the Performance Santa Fe Orchestra conducted by Joseph Illick; Emily Bear, pianist and composer. Repertoire includes Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5 and Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue.” Wednesday, Dec. 24, 5 p.m. Lensic Performing Arts Center $27-$100 (Note: A Family Concert of the same repertoire takes place at 2 p.m.; $10 per person with child, $25 per adult without child.)

New Year’s Eve with the Performance Santa Fe Orchestra conducted by Joseph Illick; violinist Vadim Gluzman and soprano Ava Pine. Repertoire includes Beethoven’s Symphony No. 1, Bruch’s Violin Concerto and vocal masterworks by Handel and Lehár. Wednesday, Dec. 31, 5 p.m. Lensic Performing Arts Center $27-$100 (Note: A Family Concert of the same repertoire takes place at 2 p.m.; $10 per person with child, $25 per adult without child.) For all tickets: www.ticketssantafe.org, 988-1234

SANTA FE DESERT CHORALE

988-2282 www.desertchorale.org Christmas and Cabaret Tuesday, Dec. 9, 6 p.m. Inn and Spa at Loretto $90 (benefit dinner, performance and auction) Carols and Lullabies Wednesday, Dec. 16, Thursday, Dec. 18, Friday, Dec. 19, Saturday, Dec. 20, Tuesday, Dec. 23, 8 p.m. Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi Monday, Dec. 22, 8 p.m. Cristo Rey Church $12-$50 Endings and Beginnings: Chilling with Voasis Saturday and Sunday, Dec. 27 and 28, 4 and 8 p.m.; Monday-Wednesday, Dec. 29-31, 8 p.m. The Lodge at Santa Fe $40-$100 For tickets: 988-2282

SANTA FE PRO MUSICA

988-4640 www.santafepromusica.com A Baroque Christmas: Repertoire includes Handel’s “Music for the Royal Fireworks,” Telemann’s “Water Music,” “Autumn” and “Winter” from Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons,” and traditional carols. Friday, Dec. 19 through Wednesday, Dec. 24, 6 and 8 p.m.; Sunday, Dec. 28, 3 p.m.; Monday, Dec. 29, 6 p.m. Loretto Chapel $20-$65 www.Ticketssantafe.org, 988-1234

Christof Huebner

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SANTA FE SYMPHONY

983-1414 www.santafesymphony.org Handel’s “Messiah.” Gary Thor Wedow, conductor; soprano Devon Guthrie, tenor Joshua Dennis, bassbaritone Joseph Beutel, and the Santa Fe Symphony Chorus. Sunday, Nov. 23, 4 p.m. Lensic Performing Arts Center $22-$76 Carols and Choruses, featuring the Symphony Brass, the Symphony Chorus and the Santa Fe Women’s Ensemble. Friday, Dec. 5, 7 p.m. Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi Free Christmas Treasures, with guest conductor Jason Altieri. Repertoire includes music by Corelli, Yon, Percy Faith, Irving Berlin and Leroy Anderson. Sunday, Dec. 14, 4 p.m. Lensic Performing Arts Center $22-$76 www.Ticketssantafe.org, 988-1234

SANTA FE WOMEN’S ENSEMBLE

954-4922 www.sfwe.org Songs of Peace Friday, Sunday and Thursday, Dec. 12, 14, 18, 7 p.m. Loretto Chapel Saturday, Dec. 20, 3 p.m. Immaculate Heart of Mary Chapel www.Ticketssantafe.org, 988-1234

SERENATA OF SANTA FE

989-7988 www.serenataofsantafe.org The Art of Bach: Bach’s Goldberg Variations arranged for strings by Dmitry Sitkovetsky. Sunday, Nov. 16, 3 p.m. First Presbyterian Church of Santa Fe $15-$30 www.Ticketssantafe.org, 988-1234

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6824 Cerrillos Rd. | Santa Fe, NM 87507 | (505) 216-3800 www.lexusofsantafe.com WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 59

HEROES OF WINTER

The snowmen cometh: Tracking winter precipitation BY KAY LOCKRIDGE ‘Fun’ is a word Aaron Miller uses frequently when talking about his work with the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS), especially when he’s in the field — atop an 11,500-foot mountain in Northern New Mexico — collecting data about snow conditions this winter that will determine water availability next spring and summer. “I really do like the work, and I feel strongly about it,” the 41-year-old soil survey project leader says. “It’s conservation-based and affects all aspects of this nation, including national security. Therefore, it has to be funded collectively, because it can’t and won’t be done by private business, states, cities or counties. If we take care of the land, it will take care of us.” He has been with the NRCS, which is under the purview of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, for 14 years and is the only wetlands expert in the Southwest. With that background, plus undergraduate and graduate degrees in geography, Miller serves on a national committee for wetland soils, which provides national leadership to all the states. Miller spent two years in an academic research lab at the University of California, Berkeley, before joining the NRCS. “The research work was interesting and gave me good background, but I wanted to get out of the lab and have some fun and do good. I couldn’t be happier than I am with what I’m doing right now,” he says. What he’s doing is spending one week each month at various sites high in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains collecting data and maintaining and repairing intricate machinery that records data about the snowpack. This effort is part of the Snow Surveys & Water Supply Forecasting (SNOTEL) program, which operates in 11 Western states and Alaska. Mandated by Congress in the mid-1930s “to measure snowpack in the mountains of the West and forecast the water supply,” SNOTEL, according to the agency, “has reliably and efficiently collected the data needed to produce water-supply forecasts and to support the resource-management activities of NRCS and other governmental and private entities.” Most of the 27 high-elevation watershed site installations in New Mexico are automated, but there are six in the Sangre de Cristos that require manual collection. That’s where the fun begins, starting at the end of December when Miller and a colleague — either Logan Peterson or Wayne Sleep, Snow Survey coordinator for New Mexico — must travel by a four-wheel-drive vehicle

Aaron Miller, right, measures snow with a colleague.

pulling a trailer with snowmobiles, sleds, skis and snowshoes to the six sites at elevations ranging from 9,000 to 11,500 feet. “We drive as far as we can, and then we haul out the snowmobiles, or, if on Taos Mountain, we strap on skis. The folks at Taos Ski Valley won’t let us hike up the mountain or use snowmobiles or even snowshoes; we have to take the chairlift as far as we can and then ski over to the snow telemetry equipment,” Miller explains with a smile. “Then, of course, we have to ski down the mountain, and that’s a perfect day,” Miller notes with satisfaction. “We (the vehicle) have gotten stuck, a lot, in mud and snow, and then we’re on foot. We’re also trained to handle whiteout conditions and storms. We haven’t lost anyone in the 14 years I’ve been here.” Besides the obvious hazards of changing weather, snowpack and road conditions, not to mention occasional breakdowns of the machines involved (“that’s why I prefer traveling by foot, with skis and snowshoes that are reliable and can be fixed easily if broken,” Miller notes in an aside), other downsides include one week a month away from home and living and eating in hotels and motels (“the menus all start to look alike,” he says). “I prefer to be at home, but I do like both summer and winter outdoor sports, particularly skiing,”

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Miller says. “I love back-country skiing and rarely — make that never — ski at resorts.” Other favorite activities include running and rock-climbing. Each SNOTEL member must take a physical exam every year to qualify for the job, and each is required to attend “snow school,” which covers winter survival and snow science, every three years. The two-man teams begin the snow datacollection duties in late December for the January 1 report and continue the monthly treks through the end of April for the May report. The weekly site visits resume in late August through November for maintenance and repair work. In between, the U.S. Forest Service cleans up the surrounding sites. The other three weeks involve in-office duties, Miller says, which are soil-related and currently involve a project on the eastern plains of New Mexico. He also participates in educational and outreach programs, as well as summer camps, for the public and other governmental agencies. In the meantime, Miller sits on an extra-large rubber ball in his office rather than a chair most of the time. “I need to move,” he explains, again with a smile on his face. Kay Lockridge is a freelance writer/editor who focuses on Santa Fe, its history, culture and people, after years covering business, government and politics in the Heartland and East Coast.

WINTER INDIAN MARKET® NOV 29-30, 2014 Santa Fe Community Convention Center

WINTER Indian Market

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Saturday 9-5, Sunday 10-5 Admission: $10 daily / $15 weekend pass Members and children are free. Tickets are available at the door. santafeindianmarket.com • facebook.com/swaia • 505.983.5220

WINTER GUIDE for Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico 61

The Lensic Enrich Your Life Performance · Education · Community L E n s i C P r E s E n T s Fa L L H i g H L i g H T s

Senegal St. Joseph Gospel Choir | Nov. 11 Musicians and vocalists, direct from Dakar.

National Theater Live in HD Skylight | Nov. 18 John | Dec. 9 The Met Live in HD Il Barbiere di Siviglia | Nov. 22 Die Meistersinger von Nurnberg | Dec. 13 The Merry Widow | Jan. 17 Les Contes d’Hoffmann | Jan. 31 Circus Luminous | Nov. 28–30

Wise Fool’s 11th annual acrobatic extravaganza!

Lensic.org | 505-988-7050

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