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SINGLE-PERSON MEDIA

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JULY 2017

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COOLING OFF AT NIGHT

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NORTHEAST JEJU ISSUE NO. 168

SINCE 1973

Seoul International School Korea’s Premier K-12 International School Outstanding university acceptances • Highly qualified educators • Excellent extra-curricular programs • 21 College Board approved AP courses • Fully WASC accredited since inception •

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People Are More Beautiful Than Flowers 사람이 꽃보다 아름다워 There’s an expression, “People are more beautiful than flowers.” Though pink roses, such as these at Seoul Grand Park, are beautiful, I wanted to capture the person inside the roses, who shined more beautifully than the flowers.

People, who are more beautiful than even the rose, the queen of flowers. Our lives are so beautiful.

Choe Jihye is a travel photographer.

Particularly fond of photographing people against floral backgrounds, she travels Korea all year round in search of its many beautiful seasonal flowers.

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The Lens

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EDITOR’S NOTE Publisher Kim Hyunggeun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Editor Diana Park Producer/Coordinator Park Sinwon Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Cynthia Fernández Designer Jeong Hyo-ju Advertising & Sales Ha Gyungmin About the Cover Model Lim Yeje and Lee Geunwoo at Yeouido Hangang Park Photographed by Dylan Goldby Address 2nd fl., 43 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 03061, Korea / Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 / E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com / Website magazine.seoulselection.com / Registration No. 서울 라 09431 / Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publishers.

In the old days, “media” was the preserve of an elite of journalists, entertainers and producers who controlled the means to convey messages to the masses. The monopoly has long since disappeared, however. A confluence of technological developments now allows individuals to become their own media stars through vlogs, podcasts and other platforms. Moreover, as demographic trends transform Korea into a solitary society of single-person households, young people are increasingly tuning in to so-called “single-person media” as a more accurate reflection of their lives and experiences.

Also in this issue of SEOUL, we lay out a mat to cool off in some of Seoul’s greener spots, grab a coffee at some of northeast Jeju’s seaside cafés, learn the secret of barista Lee Kang-bin’s world famous latte art, enjoy some of Korea’s best Southern barbecue and much, much more.

Contents

JULY 2017

ISSUE NO. 168

The Lens

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More Beautiful Than Flowers

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Nakhyun’s Guesthouse Dining

Sweet Oak 50 Sizzlin’ Ribs in Seoul 52

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Broadcasting Yourself

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Exploring Seoul

Nightlife

Cooling Off the Natural Way 18

Fido’s Day Out 54 From Compton to Seoul

Jeju’s Jewel of the North

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Shopping

Simply Fashion

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Interview

Barista Lee Kangbin

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Every student at NLCS Jeju is taught to believe there are no limits to achieving their dreams.

Minha Kim joined NLCS Jeju in 2011, she had no formal dance training and when she stepped into her first Dance Society meeting, she asked “what does contemporary dance mean?” She soon found out; and dance became her life’s passion which she embraced though the curriculum, co curricular activities and even her own Dance Company.

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Broadcasting Yourself The rise of single-person media reflects changes in an increasingly individualistic society Written by Hahna Yoon

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Exploring Seoul

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9 Live broadcasts of people eating, or meokbang, have become all the rage.

Wearing a low-cut crop top, Seo Ae-jin dances in a pink plastic bathing tub and dumps a large bag of McDonald’s French fries before her. She then drinks ketchup from a bottle, lets it drop from her mouth and rubs it all over her body. What is strange about this scene is not just that it’s happened, but that it’s become an internet phenomenon, available to the whole, wide world. The video has more than 3.1 million Facebook views since it was posted on Dec. 13, 2015. Seo Ae-jin, better known as Showry, is one of many vloggers making a name for herself in the world of one-person media.

One of the latest trends to hit the Korean entertainment industry, one-person media is as straightforward as it sounds: a video blogger (vlogger) or broadcast disc jockey (BJ) performs in front of a camera or a microphone and is shared on a popular online medium such as YouTube, Facebook, afreecaTV or PotPlayer. Whereas meokbang – broadcasts of people eating – and other entertainment videos have long been popular, channels featuring makeup tutorials, language lessons and makeshift cooking shows are now on the rise as well. What’s at the root of the one-person media trend? Could one-person media be the next big thing in

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Hallyu? And what’s out there other than performance art in ketchup and French fries?

Following the trend of one As a recent article by Naver entitled “The Evolution of Media Commerce by One-person Media” puts it, “How we consume media is just a product of the times.” The number “one” has clearly been increasing in importance in Korea over the past few years. In fact, another common expression for on-person media in Korea has been honbang – hon meaning “alone” and bang from the word for broadcast, bangsong. It is yet another of the hon words to come into use recently, along with honbap, or eating alone, and honsul, or drinking alone.

Perhaps it should come as no surprise as the number of single-person households in Korea has reached an all-time high. According to the Ministry of the Interior, there were approximately 7.39 million people living on their own last year. The Naver article points out that if families were gathering in front of televisions to watch shows about other families in 90s, single-person households are tuning into new outlets in search of faces that look more familiar to themselves.

Special Feature

Š Yonhap News

DIA TV, a cable channel owned by conglomerate CJ E&M, boasts some top broadcasting talent, including makeup artist Ssin (front right).

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Thanks to “snack culture,� people digest digital media in short bites, as if eating a snack.

12 Platformsenjoy like Facebook have helped drive Seoulites the charms of Seoullo 7017.the rise of single-person media.

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© MBRO Afreeca TV’s BJ Mbro runs a popular meokbang.

Snack culture

Platforms and profits

These new outlets are highly relevant to the world of one-person media. Nearly 99.2 percent of all Koreans have Internet access, and more and more of them are accessing it via their smartphones. The most recent 2015 Pew Research Center survey on smartphone ownership and Internet usage reports that 88 percent of all adult Koreans own a smartphone; data usage is also at an all-time high. While further research likely needs to be done on the topic, Park Se-yon, writing in the Sungkyun Times, sees high Internet usage, particularly on smartphones, as being behind “snack culture,” a new media trend in which “people enjoy media content for a brief time only, as though eating a snack.”

Could the rise of one-person media really be correlated to the demand for lighter, easily accessible content?

Video content creator Young Hwang believes it’s not as simple as all that. She lists a few factors; namely, the popularity of viral content with the younger generation and the nature of the content that’s being watched.

“For so-called ‘serious content’ and longer features like documentaries, people already use a medium that they’re more familiar with [like a television or a computer], so yes, people might be using smartphones as a part of this snack culture. Nevertheless, I think that all of this is changing, and there will be continued growth in the depth of viral content.”

The relatively expense-free business model caters towards anyone who believes that they have a good idea. An account on one of these sharing platforms and a smartphone are all you need to get started. Those looking for extra accessories can search online for “oneperson media” and discover a plethora of equipment.

The online newspaper, iNews24, finds evidence for a growing number of content creators by looking at the increased amount of equipment bought. It quotes research done by online retail company Auction. Sales of microphones and cameras and other video-making equipment from Feb. 27 to March 26 was 333 percent higher than during the same time period last year.

When it comes time to post, one only needs to look at where content is most viewed. According to an analysis of online video viewership conducted by the Korea Information Society Development Institute last year, YouTube was the leading video service with 88.6 percent usage among those studied. Facebook and Navercast followed with 30.9 percent and 24.2 percent, respectively. Not only is it pertinent to point out that individual users can post videos simply by having an account themselves, users can even profit financially by massing enough viewers to gain attention. On YouTube, users with at least 10,0000 total views can choose to make money via advertising. Another popular platform called afreecaTV allows fans to send money in the form of “star balloons” to the content creators’ accounts.

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© wonny cosmo

© wonny cosmo

YouTube’s Wonny Cosmo has become an internet star by documenting her struggle to live life her own way.

© wonny cosmo

The relatively expense-free business model caters towards anyone who believes that they have a good idea.

An account on one of these sharing platforms and a smartphone are all you need to get started.

In fact, a 2016 article from Quartz reports, “the top meokbang earners can earn as much as USD 10,000 a month by some accounts, not including sponsorships.”

Of course, no matter the platform you’re using, gaining enough of a viewership can give you the potential to market yourself to businesses looking for influencers.

Although it is a tempting scheme to make money for tech-saavy but unemployed millennials, many creators seem to have motivations that extend beyond the financial. Kazakhstani-Korean Alina Shamsutdinova, whose YouTube channel is under Alina Makgeolina, has yet to profit from her video posts, but she enjoys

© Gosoo

© Gosoo Gosoo’s Daily Snap is a popular day-to-day vlog.

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Special Feature

© Google Makeup artist Ssin attends a YouTube fan event.

creating the Korean beauty product reviews nonetheless.

Shamsutdinova, who is living in Korea for the first time, says that not only does vlogging allow her to share her Korea experience with friends back home, but that it’s fun to have her own platform where she can freely create whatever she wants.

Even full-time comedy vlogger An Jaeuok, who runs the Facebook page An Jaeuok’s Funny Life, defines oneperson media by the freedom of expression that it offers.

An actually started his channel when traditional means of making it as a comedian hadn’t worked in his favor.

“The videos I made started to become really popular when people would tag their friends. And the best part of my job is when I get a message or a comment saying I really made someone laugh or lifted their spirits.” An believes that content creation, particularly by oneperson media creators, is only beginning to grow.

The growing diversity of single-person media Just ten years ago, both domestically and internationally, you could equate viral video content with entertainment. One of the most popular oneperson media stars of this time was then child-musician Sungha Jung, who posted his cover of “The Pirates of

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the Carribean” theme song back in 2008. He now has a following of more than 4.5 million subscribers. Since then, the diversity of video content available has grown immensely. Nowadays, you can learn everything from cooking to dancing to how to play video games. With 2.6 million subscribers, beauty blogger Park Hye-min, better known as Pony Makeup, can show you how to look exactly like Taylor Swift in six minutes. Yang Ji-young, a.k.a. Yangdding (YD), simply plays the game Minecraft during his broadcasts on afreecaTV and YouTube; he has nearly 1.8 followers on the latter platform. Language-learning resource Talk To Me In Korean, which once focused on textbooks, is now releasing a new video every few days.

Targeting foreigners interested in Korea might prove to be a successful strategy. Citing Google Korea, the Korea Herald reported last year that among the top 10 YouTube channels in Korea, 80 percent of their total views were from overseas. Canadian English teacher Catherine Sinclair was one such watcher. Although Catherine lives in Korea now, she spent a lot of time watching YouTube videos to research what life would be like once she moved here. “My favorite channel was called Eat Your Kimchi, and I loved their content

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In line with global marketing trends, Korean brands are using vloggers as influencers in their respective fields.

That influence is most noticeable in collaborations with beauty vloggers.

because they featured so much awesome food I wanted to try [in the future], and they also discussed the social climate.”

There are also Korean-Americans like Juli Kim, who currently lives in Chicago and spends somewhere from five to six hours a week on YouTube videos. She lists cooking channel Honeykki as one of the genre video channels she enjoys, but notes she’s starting to enjoy video journals more and more. “I like day-to-day vlogs, like the channel Wonny Cosmo or Gosoo’s Daily Snap.

Vlogs in Korea are fun because I can recognize the places they go. It helps me to connect to the life of a Korean person.”

Vloggers as influencers

© Yangdding

In line with global marketing trends, Korean brands are using vloggers as influencers in their respective fields.

That influence is most noticeable in collaborations with beauty vloggers. Take for instance beauty vlogger Park Su-hye, known as Ssin. With a loyal following of 1.2 million subscribers, she details her makeup preferences and routines. Several of her videos, however, are collaborations with makeup companies such as Missha, Innisfree and Nature Republic. Although they proclaim themselves completely sponsor-free, the videos, which sometimes have over 1 million views, catch the eye of the brands themselves.

Digital agency After Digital writes why vloggers might be even more attractive influencers than celebrities “It’s down to the trust they have built within their communities,” it says. “Most influencers have spent years growing their following by posting about products they genuinely love and use on a daily basis, and this is worth more.”

What lies ahead? © Yangdding © Yangdding Yang Ji-young, a.k.a. Yangdding (YD), plays Minecraft during his broadcasts on afreecaTV and YouTube.

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With power vloggers and other one-person media able to make such a huge dent, the ethics of their influence will continue to be looked at as well as the dangers of popular media in a society lacking media literacy. Developments in the world of one-person media, internationally and in Korea, are exciting. The entertainment company conglomerate CJ E&M started a channel strictly devoted to one-person media back in 2017, making its shows available on cable television as well as PC and smartphone. Since 2014, YouTube has even started holding live events where influencers and vloggers gather in person every few months in an event called YouTube FanFest. In Scotland, the City of Glasgow College has even started a college course, How To Be A YouTuber. Will more and more people offer well-thought out, useful information or will the internet become aghast with dancing in French fries? Only time will tell.

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NAVIGATING KOREA’S SINGLE-PERSON MEDIA LANDSCAPE Written by Hahna Yoon

Just glance over the shoulder of a Seoulite on the subway for evidence of Korea’s changing media consumption. Smartphone usage is up, technology is ever developing and Korea’s single-persona media landscape is widening. Koreans, and young Koreans in particular, are utilizing podcasts, videocasts and other media platforms to tell not only their own stories, but also that of the society in which they live. The candlelight protests that brought down former President Park Geun-hye, broadcast to the world through video and audio shot by countless smartphones, demonstrated the power technology had brought to the individual. While it might seem a bit intimidating to navigate at first, SEOUL is here to help by pointing you in a few right directions.

AfreecaTV Founded in 2005, AfreecaTV is one of Korea’s pioneering video streaming services. Though the site at first required users to download a special player to enjoy its services, it now allows users to view ordinary streaming video without any downloads. While the content ranges from direct from television transmissions, video game broadcasts and language lessons, AfreecaTV has generated the most sensation with its broadcasts of people eating, or meokbang. Many of Korea’s most famous streamers, such as YANGDDING and Banzz, had their start on AfreecaTV. Although AfreecaTV has played an important role in the rise of single person media in Korea, a change in policies and the rise of YouTube in Korea has seen to a decline in popularity for the platform in the past few months.

YouTube The biggest name in the single person media industry, YouTube is also the most international. Founded in 2005 and bought out by Google in 2006, it was, as of April 2017, the most popular website in the world according to research done by web traffic analysis company Alexa Internet.

Audiences for YouTube have been steadily increasing in Korea. It is now the leading online video-watching platform in the country. With developing features to its live streaming service, YouTube may soon be competition for Twitch, the most popular video platform for gamers. www.youtube.com

Multi-Channel Networks (MCN) A multi-channel network (MCN) may sound complicated, but it’s actually a term to describe a third party network that strings together several different channels.

The most well known MCN in Korea is likely DIA TV, a cable channel owned by conglomerate CJ E&M and launched on Jan. 1 of this year. The acronym stands for Digital Influence & Artist TV. The network is CJ E&M’s effort to capitalize on the popularity of digital influencers. On the channel, live stream programs air between 8 p.m. to 10 p.m.; edited versions of those videos air at all other times of day. Game commentator Na Dong-hyun and makeup artist Ssin are two big names that have signed to work with DIA TV. www.diatv.com

www.afreeca.com

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더위를 식히는 도심 속 피크닉

Cooling Off the Natural Way Break out a picnic mat to beat Seoul’s midsummer heat Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

Seoul Forest is a good place to enjoy a picnic.

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The fountain at Seoul Forest is popular with children.

Midsummer marks the hottest time of the year.

Temperatures surge and the humidity rises, the brief monsoonal rains providing but a brief respite from the heat. Sundown offers little reprieve, with nighttime temperatures of 25 degrees Celsius or more producing a phenomenon Koreans call “tropical nights,” or yeoldaeya, when the heat and humidity can make it difficult to sleep.

In an age of ubiquitous air conditioning, many people beat the heat by staying indoors and cranking up the the AC. Others, however, choose more environmentally friendly methods to endure. In fact, the dog days of summer are the best time to break out a mat and head to the Hangang River or the nearest green space to sit back, crack open a beverage, order some fried chicken and gaze at the midsummer’s night sky.

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Tropical Seoul Since 2009, the National Meteorological Agency of Korea has defined a “tropical night” as a night with a nighttime low temperature of 25 degrees Celsius or above. Hot, humid high pressure systems from the North Pacific bring sweltering daytime temperatures.

At night, the high humidity suppresses radiant cooling, keeping nighttime temperatures high.

In Korea, like elsewhere, the phenomenon is especially acute in major metropolises, where a combination of factors – building materials like concrete and asphalt, lack of vegetation and the so-called urban canyon effect, in which tall buildings reflect and radiate heat in multiple directions – turn cities into urban heat islands, with temperatures significantly higher than their surroundings. In the first half of the 20th century,

Exploring Seoul

Yeonnam-dong has lots of trendy eateries, such as Yeonnam Hyugyeso.

Gyeongui Line Forest Park has plenty of trees under which to stroll.

Visitors enjoy a good time at Gyeongui Line Forest Park.

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Seoul Forest is a wide swath of green in eastern Seoul.

22 Visitors stroll beneath the trees of Seoul Forest.

Exploring Seoul

Under Stand Avenue is a trendy mall made from container boxes.

tropical nights were exceedingly rare in Seoul. Last year, the city saw 32 such nights.

Luckily, Seoul is blessed with plenty of green spaces where residents can find sanctuary from the microwave of the asphalt jungle. You can find pocket parks in the midst of even the densest concrete forest. Of course, there’s also the Hangang River, where the flowing water brings with it a welcome breeze that cools and refreshes those camped out on the grassy parks that flank the great waterway.

Seoul is blessed with plenty of green spaces where residents can find sanctuary from the microwave of the asphalt jungle. You can find pocket parks in the midst of even the densest concrete forest.

Seoul Forest In the days of Joseon (1392-1910), Ttukseom, the marshy “island” where the Jungnangcheon Stream empties into the Hangang River, was a royal hunting ground and a military inspection facility. In 1908, two American businessmen opened Korea’s first water purification plant on the site; the old brick machine building and the concrete cisterns, with their graceful arched ceilings, still stand as museums. After the Korean War, Ttukseom became home to a horse racing track, a golf course, a sports park and a riverside resort, complete with pleasure boats.

In later 2003, however, Seoul Metropolitan Government began work on transforming the site into an ecological park, a sprawling green space that

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planners likened to London’s Hyde Park and New York’s Central Park. The new park opened to the public in June 2015.

Seoul Forest is 595,000 square meters of mostly green space that includes wide grass lawns, pleasure ponds, bike paths, outdoor stages, sculpture gardens and, as the name of the park would suggest, picturesque forests that provide plenty of welcome shade in the summer.

The park is even home to a community of sika deer and water deer, which visitors can feed, albeit from behind a fence. The forst is very popular on weekends, especially in autumn, when the trees turn red and gold.

The park is divided into five themed sections. At 220,000 square meters, the Culture and Arts Park,

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Dogs like an evening at the park, too.

A visitor enjoys a green tea ice cream at Under Stand Avenue.

located in the center of the forest, is the largest by far.

It’s also the most popular spot in which to lay out a mat in summer. Its spacious grass field makes the perfect picnic spot, especially in the late afternoon, when the low sun bathes rather than boils. The field also has plenty of forested corners, including a scenic row of metasequoia trees, which provide plenty of shade from the midday sun. Young children, as well as the young at heart, love playing in the fountain at the entrance of the park.

Also near the entrance of Seoul Forest is Under Stand Avenue, which bills itself as a “creative culture hub for the public.” The mall, which is composed of 116 colorful containers, has shops, restaurants, cafés, exhibit spaces and learning centers. It’s a popular Instagram spot that immediately brings to mind Common Ground, another photogenic container mall near Konguk University. Seoul Forest also benefits from being near Seongsu-dong, an industrial districtturned-hipster haven that is now one of the city’s hottest destinations.

Gyeongui Line Forest Park Not so long ago, the Yongsan branch of the historical Seoul-Sinuiju railway line ran through what is now the narrow, 6.3 kilometer thread of green that runs from around Hyochang Park in the east to Yeonnam-dong in the west. When the line was electrified and moved underground several years ago, however, the city began

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transforming the space along the old tracks into a park.

The first section of Gyeongui Line Forest Park opened in 2012 in the Daeheung-dong neighborhood. The second stretch, including the popular Yeonnam-dong section, opened in 2015. The last part, which runs along Sinsudong and Donggyo-dong, was completed last summer.

To many Seoulites, Gyeongui Line Forest Park is synonymous with the stretch that runs through the trendy Yeonnam-dong neighborhood. Formerly a quiet residential neighborhood, Yeonnam-dong began gentrifying into the greater Hongdae area’s latest thing when young chefs, artists and entrepreneurs started moving in. Now its charming alleyways are lined with chic restaurants, cafés, boutiques, bookshops and guest houses, most of which brim with personality.

Gyeongui Line Forest Park is, in the words of The Dude from “The Big Lebowski,” the rug that ties the room that is Yeonnam-dong together. Called Yeontral Park by cheeky locals (see what they did there?), the green space has plenty of grass fields on which to spread a picnic mat and open up a can or bottle of your favorite adult beverage. Being a popular food and nightlife destination, Yeonnam-dong really comes alive at night, and outdoor lights illuminate the park for the convenience of visitors.

Rather than bringing their own sustenance, many mat-toting visitors choose to order food, especially fried chicken. Indeed, around the park, delivery mopeds are almost as common a sight as young couples walking

Exploring Seoul

Yeonnam-dong’s popular Gyeongui Line Forest Park is the perfect spot to beat the “tropical nights.”

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Nanji Hangang Park offers a breeze and romantic sunsets.

impeccably groomed toy dogs. Of course, if you wanted something a bit more upscale, you’re in the right neighborhood – you can’t walk 10 meters in Yeonnamdong without passing a restaurant, café or pub that’s trending on Instagram. This writer was pleasantly surprised by Yeonnam Hyugyeso, a simple eatery next to the park serving, among other things, Korean-style chicken nuggets and rice cakes in cream sauce, washed down with highballs made with Suntory whiskey.

World Cup Park In a city defined by its endless transformations, World Cup Park may be Seoul’s most jaw-dropping metamorphosis.

From 1978 to 1993, the riverside island of Nanjido was Seoul’s designated landfill. By the time it was closed, the landfill was a mountain of trash 2.7 million square meters in area and 90 meters high, 34 times larger than The Great Pyramid of Giza. The landfill’s notorious stench filled the surrounding neighborhoods.

After the landfill was closed in 1993, the city went to work stabilizing the giant massif of trash. In 1997, when the authorities decided to build a stadium for the upcoming 2002 Korea-Japan FIFA World Cup on The sun sets over the Hangang River, seen from Nanji Hangang Park.

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Exploring Seoul

nearby land, the city began transforming the old landfill into an ecological park. The sprawling new park opened to the public on May 1, 2002, just before the World Cup’s opening whistle.

At 449,000 square meters, World Cup Park is divided into several distinct zones. Noeul Park and Haneul Park, formerly Nanjido Landfill 1 and 2, are two plateaus that stand nearly 100 meters high. Nanjicheon Park, which runs along the Nanjicheon Stream, is a lowland park with bike paths, forests, fields and a large pond. Finally, there is Nanji Hangang Park, a grassy area along the Hangang River. This last area is a popular camping spot and regularly hosts concerts and other events.

With its wide, grassy spaces and riverside location, Nanji Hangang Park is the best spot to place a picnic mat, especially at night, when the river offers a refreshing breeze. The site also boasts romantic sunsets.

The camping site can accommodate over 2,000 people – bring you’re own tent if you have one, or you could rent a tent on sight.

The Rush Mat, or Dotjari

SEOUL FOREST Seoul Forest Station (Bundang Line), Exit 3 YEONNAM-DONG GYEONGUI LINE FOREST PARK Hongik University Subway Station (Line 2), Exit 3 WORLD CUP PARK World Cup Stadium Station (Line 6)

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1. Gyeongui Line Forest Park 2. Seoul Forest 3. World Cup Park

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Check the trunk of the car of any Korean family, or you’ll find a mat, or dotjari. While a mat may not seem like an item of great cultural importance, the dotjari has long enjoyed a significance that defies first glance. In his “Things Korean,” O-Young Lee writes, “The changes caused in the senses are a result of that change in the nature of the spot the mat has created for us. It is an ideal spot, a small mriacle.

A guest visits, so we roll out a rush mat – in even the most prosaic spot – and that spot is transformed into a banquet for our guest. At another time, a place of work will become a place of rest. One may be playing cards at one moment, but a change of mats can easily change the card game into a memorial service for the dead.”

In the old days, before air conditioning, people would survive the hot summer nights by sleeping on woven dotjari, unfolded on the wood panel floor of a Korean traditional home. For additional relief, the sleeper could use a bamboo wife, or jukbuin, a long, hollow cylindrical “pillow” made of woven bamboo strips.

Traditionally, dotjari were made from woven bulrush. The island of Ganghwado in Incheon still produces rush-woven mats, or hwamunseok, this way as a heritage handicraft.

Nowadays, however, most dotjari are made from cloth, bamboo, silver foil or another synthetic material.

Many shops near parks sell dotjari. While cheap ones can go for less than KRW 10,000, good ones start at KRW 40,000.

Artisinal hwamunseok made by Ganghwado craftmen can cost in excess of KRW 1 million (hwamunsuk.com).

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제주도 동북부

Jeju’s Jewel of the North Jeju-based photographer Douglas MacDonald explores the charms of the island’s northeast coast Written and photographed by Douglas MacDonald

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Sisters enjoy drinks and the view at Gimnyeong Beach.

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Brightly colored seaweed and ancient volcanic rock sweeps across a quiet cove near Gimnyeong Beach.

It’s a picture-perfect day on Jeju, sunny and warm with not a cloud overhead. As I drive northeast along highway 1132 and make a left at the sign for Gimnyeong Beach, bright sunlight glints off of my side view mirror and a light breeze ruffles my hair, the smell of the sea everywhere, hinting at what’s to come just around the next bend.

Tradition survives at Gimnyeong Beach For a first-time traveler to Jeju, your first look at Gimnyeong Beach is unforgettable. Brilliant white sand, freshly graded for the start of the summer season, contrasts beautifully with the 2-million-year-old black

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volcanic rock that separates the beach from the layers of greens and blues that stretch out to the horizon.

Already dozens of beach-goers, towels laid out and brightly-colored umbrellas standing at attention, dot the sand. But, take a short stroll down a narrow road just to the left of the main beach and you’ll find yourself on a stretch of sand that reminds me of Jeju 15 years ago, before tourism development took over. The sand is somehow whiter and the sea an even more beautiful shade of aqua-green. A mother and her child stand at the water’s edge, completing the postcard-perfect view. The photo ops are unlimited.

Prying myself away from the beautiful scenery at

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An artist sells her wares at the Sehwa Bellongjang Market.

Young women pose for that perfect Instagram moment at Woljeong-ri Beach.

Gimnyeong Beach, I drive further east along what may be one of Korea’s finest stretches of coastline.

I’m struck by the large number of diving women, or haenyeo, working along the shore in the mid-morning heat. They’re collecting umutgasari, a kind of algae that grows only in late spring. After collection they then lay it flat to dry beside the road. The daughter of one of the haenyeo, Yeong Gyeong, explained that the dried algae is then placed in nylon bags that will be transported to a factory that processes the algae into beauty products and agar, a jelly-like substance that’s a popular ingredient in soups and desserts throughout Asia. There are concerns that over-development may threaten the haenyeo’s work

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As development along Jeju’s northern coast continues unabated, concerns have been raised about whether the growth in tourism on the island can be sustained.

environment. Gyeong says, “They were disappointed that many of the original landowners in the area sold out so easily, opening the door to rampant construction of tourism infrastructure.” She adds, however, “Most of

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A seller explains how she makes her crafts at Sehwa Bellongjong Market.

32 Woljeongri Beach is a picture-perfect place for couples and families alike.

Exploring Seoul

These delicately crafted miniature cups, on display at Sehwa Bellongjong Market, take hours to make.

the women like that the area is getting more popular. It’s good for the local economy.”

A true community market Part of that local economy includes the Bellongjang Market in the small town of Sehwa. Started in February 2013 by a small group of artists and café and guesthouse owners, the market has grown to include as many as 300 sellers. Now located at Sehwa Pogu, the local port, it opens on Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. (except on days the town’s 5 day market is held).

This highly Instagrammable event was the highlight of my day. It showcases a cornucopia of delights, from leather purses and wallets to handcrafted dolls and pottery, freshly squeezed juices to homemade organic breads. Anything goes as long as sellers follow one rule: You must make your own products.

While some of the sellers already have regular jobs or successful businesses in the area, the market also benefits lesser-known artists like Yang Hye-seon, a young mother of two who first began making fabric pockets filled with aromatic scents about two years ago and now regularly attends the market to sell her wares. “It allows me to take a break from life as a mom. I can do something creative and make a little money, too.”

A bit of tranquility in Woljeong-ri Sehwa may be a fun way to spend a couple of hours, but the true pulse of the area is at Woljeong-ri Beach. Though a mere 20 minute drive separates Woljeong-ri from its

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“sleepy cousin” Gimnyeong, they are worlds apart. The beach, less pristine but still beautiful, is anchored by a lively strip featuring a wide assortment of places to stay and eat. If you love to people-watch, this is the place to be. Young couples pose for selfies on colourful chairs along the promenade as beautiful people and flashy cars pass by. Lines of drying squid sway in the wind nearby with the blue-green ocean serving as a backdrop to it all.

Indeed, so trendy is Woljeong-ri that there is concern that the hot spot may be experiencing gentrification pains like Seoul’s hippest neighborhoods.

If you’re looking for something more traditional, walking a few meters behind the strip leads you to undiscovered alleys that show hints of the past.

Crammed between a massive new hotel complex and a curry restaurant lies Mujaae House. According to Ko Chang-song, Woljeong-ri’s senior community vice-chairman, the house is 150 years old and has been owned by five generations of the same family. Now owned by his son, Ko Bo-hyeong, the home has been carefully remodeled to maintain as much of the original stone structures as possible. It features a main building, or angeori, and subordinate building, or bakgeori.

Traditionally in Jeju, these spaces were divided by generations, with the parents living in the angeori and the married children in the bakgeori. Now listed on Airbnb, the 5-star-rated house features all the modern conveniences you could want within both buildings with a beautiful, oasis-like stone garden in the center courtyard. When pressed about the massive development

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aA Cafe, located just a few minutes west of Sehwa, is a great place to relax and unwind.

Chimes blow in the sea breeze at the Sehwa Bellongjang Market.

A photographer takes in the view at Sehwa Beach.

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Hand-made vanilla shake at aA Cafe, a few minutes north of Sehwa.

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taking place in the area, Song replied, “People may complain that traditional Jeju is disappearing, but that’s just capitalism.”

As development along Jeju’s northern coast continues unabated, concerns have been raised about whether the growth in tourism on the island can be sustained. After Korea’s dispute with China over the U.S. deployment of a controversial anti-missile system to Korea, there’s been a decline in the number of Chinese tourists visiting Jeju. Though a fresh influx of mainland Korean tourists has picked up some of the slack, more needs to be done to diversify its tourist base. There’s been talk of tapping into the massive Southeast Asian travel market by adding direct flights from cities like Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur. Is that a good thing? The jury is still out. In the meantime, travelers have a chance to visit Jeju’s sleepy northern coast before it’s too late.

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Yeowoolmok Guesthouse (T. 010-2735-6623), made famous in the 2013 TV series “The Goddess of Marriage,” is a 10-minute drive from Woljeong-ri beach. It features traditional stone walls, Korean style bedding, and a nice front yard with a spectacular view of the ocean. Summer rates are KRW 39,000 per person a night or KRW 77,000 a night for a whole room (for up to 4 people).

Aqua Beautique (T. 70-4548-1014 ) is more upscale at KRW 206,000-250,000 a night but features individual swimming pools and is just a 50 meter walk from Woljeong-ri beach.

Shrimp Box serves two dishes, spicy shrimp and lemon and garlic shrimp. Both cost KRW 9,000 and they’re fantastic.

There’s also a wide selection of craft beers. It’s open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. with a break between 2 and 3. It’s closed on Monday and Tuesday.

Heukdaeji Gareum Mul is the place to go if you want to try Jeju’s famous black pork, as well as other common Korean dishes like kimchi soup. It is located just meters from Woljeong-ri beach.

Neulhaerang, located right beside Aqua Beautique, is a colorful, eclectic little café featuring a nice mix of both Korean and foreign food, from dumplings and tteokbokki to sandwiches, as well as coffee, tea and beer, all served on beautiful wood benches. The main selling point is the veranda. A perfect place to watch the sunset. aA Café (T. 010-7456-9915) was my favorite place to take a break. It serves wonderful shakes and organic lemon iced tea. It also has amazing bean bag chairs on the patio with stunning views of the ocean.

Several discount airlines (Jeju Air, Jin Air, T’way Air) have multiple flights a day to Jeju from Gimpo.

How to Get to Jeju’s North Coast Bus service is available but slow. Rental car agencies are located just outside the Jeju International Airport. Take highway 1132 going east for about 40 minutes. Turn left at Gimnyeong Beach exit. Take first right before the beach parking lot to drive along Shore Road.

Jeju

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Art in a Cup Barista Lee Kangbin takes latte art to a whole new level, mesmerizing the world in the process Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

“I developed cremart. I developed it and spread the recipe globally through the internet because I want a coffee product developed in Korea to be available in every café worldwide. In Korea, many people want to be the only one to sell something, maybe have a patent on something. I, however, want to change the coffee market.”

Barista Lee Kangbin is no mere purveyor of coffee. What he creates at his café, armed with little more than a thin metal rod and some food coloring, is drinkable fine art. So mesmerizing is his work that it has gone viral, with global media giants like Cosmopolitan, TIME, Vice and the Daily Mail running profiles on him and his art. Cosmo effused, “But while most baristas can easily manage a heart or flower out of steamed milk, Korean ‘coffee artist’ Kangbin Lee is taking latte art to the next level-and the results are jaw-dropping (...so you can guzzle the coffee faster).”

A coffee prodigy?

It’s a normal afternoon at Café C.Through, which is to say, the trendy Gyeongnidan coffee house is packed.

With its tastefully uncluttered interior and, of course, its creative lattes, the café is a veritable Instagram factory.

Customers – young, overwhelmingly female and almost all impeccably dressed – gab, sip coffee and snap photos with their smartphones, the click of

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the shutter spicing up the hum of the background chatter.

Tall, thin and sporting a pair of round, horned-rim glasses, Lee looks every part the hip barista. His youth belies a decade in the coffee business. “I got my start early,” he recalls. “I started at 18.

Because I thought you should work before doing other things, I originally dreamed of becoming a chef. I felt there were too many chefs in Korea, though, that the profession was more of a ‘red ocean’ than I thought. I wondered where a new ‘blue ocean’ might be. Baristas were stating to get noticed in Korea at this time.”

Korea is now the world’s 11th largest coffee market. According to Statistics Korea, the national statistics bureau, the average Korean drinks 428 cups of coffee per year. There are 88,500 cafés around the country. In Seoul’s posh Gangnam area, one of every two buildings has a coffee shop.

In 2002, however, when Lee first got into the bean business, coffee was still a relatively new thing. Nonetheless, Lee saw in the rich, aromatic beverage not only a future national obsession, but also a career. In high school, he built his own coffee roaster to roast beans. When he entered the military to perform his mandatory national service at the age of 21, he brought his coffee machine to his deployment near the DMZ. “I was a bit unusual,” he says.

Not your father’s latte art It’s Lee’s contributions to “latte art” that have made him a global sensation.

“A Korean barista is creating miniature masterpieces inside cups and coffee mugs,” writes the Daily Mail. TIME writes that his latte art “basically belongs in a museum.” It adds, “In fact, the labor-intensive works of art are so stunning, it could be easy to forget that they sit atop lattes.”

Latte art, traditionally defined, involves either the pouring of steamed milk into a shot of espresso to create aesthetically pleasing designs or the drawing of patterns into the layer of milk foam atop the espresso. As the term “latte art” would imply, it’s a craft that requires skill, dexterity and creativity. Korean baristas have been at the forefront of the genre. Um Paul, the 2016 World Latte Art Champion, is Korean; Caleb Cha of Australia, the 2015 champion, was born in Korea.

Lee’s work, however, differs from traditional latte art by adding vibrant colors to what had been a strictly twotone genre. Cremart (“cream art”), as he calls his technique, involves drawing on a thick, white canvas of cream that has been poured atop a base of cold brewed coffee. Lee uses thin metal rods and common food coloring to produce mesmerizing, incredibly detailed drawings. His art ranges from drawings of pop icons like Snoopy and Belle and

Interview

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© Lee Kangbin

Interview

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“I had a lot of experience with coffee, so I thought I should come up with a cup of coffee that was not simply pretty, but more stylish and tasty.”

the Beast from Disney’s “Beauty and the Beast” to reproductions of classic works of fine art like like van Gogh’s Starry Night and Edvard Munch’s The Scream.

His personal favorite is the van Gogh.

He says, “Because customers like it best, I, too, have come to like it best.”

Although Lee has been studying and creating latte art for seven years, cremart is his own creation. “About three or four years ago, I wanted to make my own signature beverage, so I thought about it a lot,” he recounts. “I had a lot of experience with coffee, so I thought I should come up with a cup of coffee that was not simply pretty, but more stylish and tasty. So I pondered how I could create coffee that was both pretty and tasted good.”

Like revenge, a cremart beverage is a dish best served cold. “Hot coffee grows less tasty as time passes,” Lee explains.

“It takes a long time to make these drawings, however, so cremart is always served cold.” In fact, maintaining the beverage’s cold temperature is the most important factor in its making.

The barista’s art is especially remarkable considering that he has no artistic training, formal or otherwise.

“I’ve never learned how to draw,” he says. “I just had an interest; I’ve never studied art or attended an art academy.”

When explaining why Koreans excel at latte art, Lee points to several factors.

Firstly, he says, Korea has a lot of people

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who are dexterous, visually oriented and able to communicate scientifically.

Also behind the success is a culture of sharing. “While baristas here compete with one another, many are friends,” he says. “They share what information they have and gather together to have latte art competitions. In this way, they’ve shared what they know in a friendly way, allowing the latte art scene to grow a bit quicker. Now basic information on latte art is everywhere, and people studying latte art have an easier time.”

Letting baristas embrace their inner artist Lee documents his artistic activities on Instagram, where he has nearly 1.6 million followers. A solid social media presence is a must in the coffee-slinging business nowadays. His café, filled with customers mugging for selfies, is proof positive of this. “Before, a café drew crowds just as long as the coffee was good,” he says. “Nowadays, customers really care about the interior design.

Your place can get hot only if it has good interior design, if it’s a space worth photographing.”

While cafés are ubiquitous in Korea, the nation’s café scene differs from that of Europe, North America and elsewhere in several regards. In coffee superpowers like Italy and Australia, cafés open early and operate only until the afternoon.

Customers visit in the morning, drink

Café C.Through 1F, Nieun Building, 37-1 Noksapyeongdaero 40-nagil, Yongsan-gu T. 070-7796-8991 Personal Instagram: @leekangbin91

their coffee and go on with the rest of their day. Koreans, however, head to cafés after work, usually around 6:00 or 7:00 in the evening. In the West, people just dip into the random cafés they pass on the street. For Koreans, however, going to a café has become like going on a tour. You set a time and date with friends to venture fourth to a pre-selected coffee house. “In the old days, only people who liked coffee drank coffee,” says Lee. “Now people go on coffee tours. They go to this café to enjoy a certain atmosphere, and then another one to enjoy a different atmosphere.”

Lee makes well-balanced coffee that is, in his words, “easy to drink.”

While specialty coffees may have their passionate fans, many people find them impossible to drink. Making coffee that pleases everyone, however, can be a difficult task. “Coffee is a personal beverage,” he says. “Even though a variety may very well suit your tastes, it could taste bad to somebody else, regardless of how expensive it is.”

What Lee really wants to do is set baristas free to express their inner artists.

“Baristas have a lot of artistic talent,” he says. One need only look at a cup of his cremart to see the truth in this.

“I thought about what kind of coffee product could make use of this talent. I developed cremart so that baristas could use their artistry. Now I’m promoting it overseas, too.”

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Seoul Stories is a monthly exploration of Seoul through the lives of its people.

Written and photographed by Diana Park

Park Eunhyun

Artist and bookshop owner Tell us about yourself. I manage a bookshop in Mapo-gu and also work as a freelance illustrator.

Why did you choose your neighborhood?

I moved to Mapo-gu for a job. Since then, I’ve grown fond of its creative atmosphere.

I also travel often on my bike. Hongdae has many hills, so biking is the fastest. I’m so content with living here.

What do you like about Seoul? The Hangang River. I especially love Seonyudo

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Park. It’s like an island within the city. I love how I’m looking out to the land from the river. Otherwise, I eat chicken and beer, exercise and visit the convenience store.

What would you change about Seoul? The expensive housing. Due to gentrification, franchises are replacing local shops. Last year, a café was getting kicked out and people donated funds to keep it.

What is Seoul to you? A picture. Seoul is always changing, so even though I go to a place I’ve been to, it feels different.

Your thoughts on Korea’s view of art?

The interest is growing! Many people buy books and collect art items. Even people

who didn’t study design are making books.

So when someone tells me, “I’m interested in art, but I can’t make art because I can’t draw well,” I can say: “Someone may appreciate your style, so go for it!” That kind of acceptance exists now.

What is the Seoul life you’re drawing?

People around me think my flexible lifestyle is special. I find that strange. A laid-back life is possible in Seoul, as long as you make space for it.

Instead of getting a TV, my husband and I placed two sofas. We just sit and talk.

We chose not to make decisions based on others’ opinions. Doing what I love is the life I want to continue to live here.

Seoul Stories

Cynthia Yoo

Professor and food editor

Tell us about yourself and your work.

I teach at Kyung Hee University. I also do freelance media work and write about the Korean dining industry. My career has been about building bridges between local Koreans, expats and foreign tourists and finding ways they can learn from each other.

When and how did you move to Korea? I’m from Canada and traveled to Korea from a young age. The real move was in 2009 when I was given the opportunity to teach and start an English language blog with friends.

Where is your favorite neighborhood?

I like Seocheon. Though it’s blooming, it is still more relaxed and manageable than its cousin Bukchon.

I also think it’s important to discover your own neighborhood. I live in Jamsil.

It’s more famous for late-night drinking establishments and I find it hard to find good restaurants at times. But after searching, I find many places. Go out and discover your own gems because they’re out there!

Tell us about the Korean dining scene.

There has been a lot of development recently. Many young Korean chefs studied in the best culinary schools and worked at top restaurants abroad. They brought back great ideas on how to innovate the Korean restaurant industry. Also, many

Koreans who studied abroad and expats transplanting back raised the bar on what you can expect at a restaurant. That’s the evolution in the Korean dining scene.

How has Korea changed during your time here? Korea is huge. I’m always taken aback by the rows of apartments and how many people live here. Many people say Seoul is dynamic and ever-changing.

Seoulites always try to catch the next new thing and want to be part of it. That’s one of the elements that really define the city.

You’re a storyteller. What story is being written in Seoul? So many! Seoul is a city of millions of people, each with their own stories. Seoulites can be individualistic, but can also unite in big historical moments.

Big or small, they’re all out there!

© Cynthia Yoo © Cynthia Yoo

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© Gyungmin Ha

© Gyungmin Ha © Gyungmin Ha

Kim Youngboom Developer

Please introduce yourself. I was born in Daegu and lived in Seoul for 25 years. I’m a developer at an IT company. It’s located in Teheranro, one of the most vibrant streets in Seoul.

Tell us about Tehenranro. Compared to office-packed areas like Yeouido or Gwanghwamun, Tehenranro is filled with various businesses from IT, finance to small print shops. It is an incubator for Korea’s leading IT companies, and I dreamt of working here as an aspiring developer.

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Where is your favorite place in Seoul?

Olympic Park. It’s one of Asia’s biggest parks and is a place I can rest and heal in the middle of the city. It’s also in Jamsil and near Seoul’s oldest fortress, Mongchontoseong; its tallest building, Lotte World Tower; and the amusement park, Lotte World. When you look around this neighborhood, time will fly.

What do you like the most about Seoul?

The nightlife! It’s one of the city’s defining traits. Where else can you find endless things to do at night like in Seoul?

If there is one thing you want to change about Seoul, what is it? The air quality.

I enjoy walking or riding a bike along the river. I hesitate going out nowadays because of fine dust. Even without it, Seoul

feels suffocating, being a big city. So if the air were better, I would be thankful.

How is Seoul different from other cities?

Compared to other capitals, Seoul possesses a highly concentrated cultural influence.

Seoul is the starting place for trends in Korea. Seoul not only represents Korea, but is Korea itself. So traveling in Seoul virtually equals traveling around Korea.

What is Seoul to you? Seoul is my soul! I wasn’t born here, but it’s influenced me the most. No matter what kind of life I lead, I’ll say that my starting point was Seoul.

Every part of Seoul is always changing. It can be tiring to keep up, but I try to enjoy it like surfing over fast currents. Seoul will continue to change, tomorrow and in the days to come.

Seoul Stories

Lee Hyunduck

Laundromat bar café owner

Tell us about yourself. I lived in Seoul for about 10 years. I run a laundromat bar café in Haebangchon (HBC) and do interior design work as a side gig.

What inspired your concept café? I observed that people easily chat while waiting for laundry in Western cities. There aren’t many laundromats in HBC. Because many foreigners are here temporarily, they don’t want to invest in a machine. I thought opening a laundromat and café would encourage foreigners and locals to enjoy

Magazine

coffee and company while doing laundry.

Why HBC? For over 50 years, this area was dying due to inconvenient transportation and the hilly location. Because of the cheap rents, people were able to try new concepts, and this resulted in rows of independent bookstores, concept cafés and one-chef restaurants. HBC is one of the few neighborhoods in Seoul where foreigner and local owned businesses congregate together. Without traveling abroad, you can experience both foreign and Korean indie cultures.

What do you like doing in Seoul? I love taking walks. I’m from the suburbs and I’ve always loved nature. I live in Huam-dong and enjoy walking through Namsan, away from the busy city.

How is Seoul different from other cities? Seoul has the ability to absorb and reinterpret new cultures. Nowadays, spaces in Seoul don’t just imitate foreign examples, but represent looks and moods that are unique to the city. Seendosi and Soosunhwa Hotel in Euljiro are good examples. Their interiors utilize the space in the most “Seoul” way possible.

What is to Seoul to you? A platform. I can try different things and meet many people here. It’s a base camp for me to eventually support my hometown and surrounding regions, and even expand internationally.

I’m fascinated that it attracts so many foreigners. They find fun in things I didn’t perceive before, and that allows me to see my own city differently.

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Photo by Robert Koehler Young haenyeo Chae Ji-ae discusses her life at a special session on Jeju’s haenyeo at Jeju Forum 2017.

Better Together At Jeju Forum 2017, over 5,500 leaders gather to discuss peace and prosperity in Asia Written by Diana Park

Chae Ji-ae doesn’t fit the typical image of haenyeo, the famous diving women of Jeju. While most haenyeo are elderly women, Chae, a former hairdresser who moved from Seoul to Jeju to become a diver, is but a young woman. She represents a new generation of haenyeo.

Speaking as a panelist at a special session of the Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity 2017 entitled, “From Babies to Grannies of the Sea: Global Promotion and Sustainability of Jeju Haenyeo,” Chae revealed the lessons she learned from the sea.

“I learned to be humble,” she said. “I can’t be proud because of my college education. Haenyeo have wisdom about nature, like the direction of winds in different seasons. This only come from years of experience and must be respected.”

The Jeju Forum for Peace and Prosperity 2017 marked

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the 12th year for the event, held annually to promote peace in Asia. Over 5,500 leaders and experts from 80 countries gathered at the International Convention Center Jeju from May 31 to June 2 to discuss this year’s theme of “Sharing a Common Vision for Asia’s Future.”

While the forum’s 75 sessions covered a wide range of global political, environmental and humanitarian issues, it also placed a special focus on the local and cultural, with particular focus on Jeju’s haenyeo, who were registered on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in December 2016.

Haenyeo: a national treasure The Jeju Forum’s session on Jeju’s haenyeo tradition was an undeniable highlight of the forum. An exhibit of photographs and a display of equipment used by haenyeo

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Photo by Robert Koehler

Photo by Robert Koehler A visitor takes in a photo exhibit on Jeju’s haenyeo.

gave attendees a closer look at the lives of the diving women. Brenda Paik Sunoo, writer and photographer of the book, “Moon Tides: Jeju Island Grannies of the Sea,” held a book-signing event, too.

Haenyeo came to global attention after being registered with UNESCO at the end of last year. The community of diving women, who hold their breaths for minutes at a time as they search the ocean floor for abalone and other shellfish, has contributed to advancing the status of women in Jeju. They’ve also promoted environmental sustainability with their eco-friendly harvesting methods and community management of fisheries. Unfortunately, age and the lure of other economic activities has made the haenyeo lifestyle increasingly rare. Today, there are only 2,500 truly active divers, most of whom are elderly.

The haenyeo session urged the public to take action to sustain the community of diving women, a vulnerable yet precious treasure. Lee Sun-hwa, a member of the Jeju Special Self-Governing Provincial Council, explained the haenyeo’s irreplaceable value. “The UNESCO recognition restored the haenyeo’s dignity,” she said. “The true benefit was not necessarily economic for the haenyeo, but that they became an icon for a new kind of feminism.”

She said that though life as a haenyeo was considered shameful in the past, UNESCO recognition has given them pride in their work and that of their mothers and grandmothers.

“A haenyeo represents a valuable web of stories, life experiences, and wisdom about nature. She represents a kind of a museum.” said Lee. “Their stories, especially from elderly haenyeos in their 70s, must be recorded. Not

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Shin Hwajeong of social enterprise Jejudo Joa talks at a special session on youth.

just by students, but scholars from education, culture, and government sectors.”

The session spotlighted the haenyeo’s efforts to protect Jeju’s famously spectacular natural environment. Film director Koh Hee-young showed the resolve haenyeo have to protect the community and Jeju’s natural resources with a clip from her film, “Mulsum: Breathing Underwater.” In the film, the haenyeo swore off the use of high-tech diving equipment. “There will be no sea creatures left for the next generation of haenyeo,” they said. “This is our promise.”

The haenyeo are highly active in their local communities, too. Paik Sunoo, who photographed and documented the lives of haenyeo outside of the water, explained that the divers were active in community service. When not working, they serve in senior centers and visit elders to care for them and bathe them. “All Jeju students must learn social responsibility, gratitude and community,” she said. “The sea belongs to all of us. We must go together.”

After the session, the attendees and panel speakers gathered for a brief tour of the Beobhwan Haenyeo School, guided by its director, Kang Ae-shim. Kang showed participants around the school, discussing its history. The school has trained over 9,500 students from Jeju and beyond.

German-born Korean media personality Daniel Lindemann, who participated as a speaker on the youth panel, said he was surprised to find out about the haenyeo school. “It’s very important to sustain the haenyeo culture and its economy, as many haenyeo have difficulty keeping

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Photo by Robert Koehler

The speakers of the haenyeo session addressed a packed house.

Photo by Robert Koehler

Writer Brenda Paik Sunoo signs books after the haenyeo session.

Photo by Douglas MacDonald Former U.S. Vice President Al Gore kicks off the forum with a talk on climate change.

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a steady income,” he said. “Supporting them both culturally and economically should be a necessity.”

Park Jin, President of the Asia Future Institute, also attended the tour. He said, “Let the haenyeo remain as the most beautiful and meaningful part of Korean culture.”

Peace and dignity on a healthy planet The Jeju Forum’s headline act was former U.S. Vice President and Noble Peace Prize Laureate Al Gore, who kicked off the forum with a special session on the challenges and opportunities of climate change. Pointing to climate change as a factor in political instability and humanitarian crises, he assured listeners that changes are in the works, including international efforts to promote the use of renewable energy. Passing the baton of social responsibility to the audience, he concluded, “Political will to act is itself a renewable resource.”

The forum’s early sessions tackled weighty issues related to world peace and global prosperity. Participants especially focused on North Korea, whose nuclear and missile programs grievously worry the international community. In a prerecorded address, President Moon Jae-in stressed that the neglect of ongoing violations of human rights in North Korea negates the push for peace.

“As human rights are universal values, we will work hard to improve the human rights of North Koreans,” he said. “We will work with the international community to encourage the North Korean authorities to improve their policies and systems.”

Lee Hong-koo, former Prime Minister, expressed hope for inter-Korean dialogue. “South and North Korea made major movements toward reconciliation in 1991,” he said. “I hope that these measures will furnish the basis for a dialogue.”

One session dealt specifically with the issue of North Korean human rights. Participants stressed that without improvements in North Korea’s human rights situation, substantive peace and prosperity might prove elusive.

Michael Kirby, Former Chairman of the U.N. Commission of Inquiry on Human Rights in the DPRK, explained that peace was not an absence of war, but rather the internal peace of human existence that came from living in peaceful countries. He said, “Prosperity cannot be obtained if people face human rights violations that exist in North Korea.”

Speakers encouraged listeners to act. Lee Jung-hoon, South Korea’s ambassador-at-large on North Korean human rights, despaired that systemic oppression in North Korea has been allowed to continue over three generations. “We’re running out of time with North Korea being nuclear,” he said. “We need to recognize the urgency of the problem.”

Likewise, North Korean defector and activist Lee

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Photo by Robert Koehler

This year’s Jeju Forum was especially inclusive, with new sessions created to broaden participation. While previous forums focused only on peace and prosperity, this year’s broadened the sessions with cultural topics like the haenyeo and youth.

Young people from all over attended the session on youth.

Hyeon-seo called on the world to turn its eyes toward North Korea, saying, “The North Korean human rights tragedy must become one of the international community’s most pressing issues.”

The forum addressed wider regional issues, too. In his address, President Moon pledged to make Korea a nation that opens a way for common prosperity and peace in Asia. Jeju Governor Won Hee-ryong, too, reemphasized the value of unity in fulfilling the forum’s vision. At a forum of former world leaders, he said, “Peace and prosperity in Asia cannot be possible without cooperation among different countries.”

The role of the youth This year’s Jeju Forum was especially inclusive, with new sessions created to broaden participation. “Before, our agenda included only peace and prosperity, but we’ve broadened the sessions with cultural topics like the haenyeo and youth,” explained Jeju Forum Program Assistant Kang Na-gyeong. “We’ve also expanded the audience of the forums to include students and professors.”

In the youth session, many international leaders gathered to discuss the role of youth as a driving force in bringing positive changes in the world.

While participants recognized the vulnerability of the youth, they also emphasized the need to protect and nurture them.

Puan Maharani, Coordinating Minister for Human Development and Culture of Indonesia, said the government must develop education and create the right environment to protect their rights. She also noted how development of communication technology today has

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created an environment in which young people can voice their opinions and influence government policies.

Youth can also play a crucial role in effecting political change. Hamat Bah, Minister for Tourism and Culture of Gambia, explained how the youth of his country played a crucial role in bringing democracy to his country after a prolonged period of dictatorship. He said, “They voiced the dictator’s injustice through social media, murals, street rallies and campaigns.”

Speakers also emphasized the role of creativity in unleashing young people’s potential. Eduardo Mendez, Executive Director of Simon Bolivar Music Foundation in Venezuela, pointed to the role that El Sistema, Venezuela’s renowned youth music program, played in helping vulnerable youth. He said, “Participating in the orchestra and choir gave vulnerable students opportunities to become leaders through community consciousness, healthy competition and understanding differences.”

Umair Mushtaq, Communication Manager of Pakistan’s Little Art youth arts program, explained that art develops the potential of the youth and deepens the understanding of the value of peace.

Speakers also underscored the importance of intergenerational communication, cooperation and unity in fostering the youth. Shin Hwajeong, Representative of social enterprise Jejudo Joa, which works with artists to create art using the garbage that washes up on Jeju’s beaches, said her work was a great example of the Jeju community working together to educate and bring change. Both the nurturing of the young and honoring of the old are necessary to propel the forum’s vision, particularly in Jeju, she said.

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Nakhyun’s Guesthouse Experience Korean history in intimate surroundings at this Gangnam apartment-turned-accommodation Written and photographed by Romain John

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Nakhyun’s Guesthouse is, in fact, owned by a man named Nakhyun. The fully renovated apartment, a short walk from Dogok Station in Gangnam, was his childhood home. The Dogok Station area is a peaceful neighborhood inhabited by Seoul’s fabulously wealthy – it’s here you’ll find Samsung Tower Palace, one of Korea’s most expensive addresses. Much of the district’s charm comes from Yangjaecheon Stream, which is particularly beautiful in spring, when it’s countless cherry blossoms bloom.

Nakhyun’s Guesthouse is a spacious, four-bedroom space. There is much more than what meets the eye here.

Nakhyun has decorated his place with an artistic simplicity. There are no superfluous pieces of furniture,

Accommodation

no cheap wall stickers or badly displayed art. Being an artist himself, the owner has decorated his home with taste and meaning. Ask him about that clock hanging on the balcony wall, and he will tell you its history and function, how he winds it every week as sailors did back when it was used. He will explain how his father built the small wooden cabinet between the living room and the table area as a triple drawer and safe that Nakhyun’s grandmother used all her life. Inquire about the art on the wall or the objects around you and you will be shown a part of Korea’s history in an intimate manner.

As the owner is a theater programmer, among his other artistic pursuits, he can give you invaluable information about shows and cultural experiences that will make your stay special and unforgettable.

120, Seolleung-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Contact info: Kang Nakhyun kangnakhyun@gmail.com

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The Sweet Smell of Summer Smoke Barbeque fans go the distance to try some of the best smoked meat on the peninsula at Wonju’s Sweet Oak Written by Jennifer Flinn Photographed by Noe Alonzo

Just a quick train or bus ride away from Seoul lies some barbeque magic. Wonju’s Sweet Oak BBQ is an outpost of Americana, complete with country-western music and a wood-burning stove. Proprietor and “Grill Sergeant” Augustin Flores has brought the Korean love for meat and novelty together with traditional American barbeque in a glorious, smoke-flavored menu.

“Koreans have a history of taking a liking to things American, and barbecue has been a huge part of Korean culture. The two have just finally come together,” Chef Flores offers. “That, and everyone’s always looking for something new. Korean diners in general really seem to appreciate passion and process, and they see it in American barbeque.”

Creating great barbeque takes more than passion,

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though. Technique and knowledge of how to create the tenderness and flavor that are the hallmark of great barbeque take time, effort and dedication. Flores says, “Barbecue is the oldest form of cooking, and it’s still probably the single most universal style of cooking.

Wherever you are in the world, when people want you to try their country or region’s cuisine, chances are they’re offering you barbecue.”

Each style of barbeque is a different beast, and Flores has been a diligent student. “I was always into backyard barbecue growing up, and we have a big barbecue culture in my homeland of Guam. It wasn’t until several years ago though that I became interested in American barbecue.”

“In my first years in Korea, I was soaking up a little

Dining

too much of the local drinking culture. I was hungover on many afternoons and would binge watch food TV shows in bed all day and night. I made a decision one day to quit drinking alcohol completely. In the next two years, I learned how to barbecue from celebrity pitmasters in America, graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in London, and attended William Blue School of Hospitality while working in a variety of kitchens in Sydney, Australia. I met my wife in London, and after Sydney, we returned to Korea and opened Sweet Oak together in 2015.”

A destination restaurant The work Flores and his wife Euna have put into their studies pays off. While they might not have grown up at the elbow of a pitmaster, dedication to the form has resulted in outstanding food. Everything has the right amount of smokiness, tenderness or chew depending on the cut, from brisket to pulled pork to the mammoth, almost cartoonishly huge beef ribs that are one of Sweet Oak’s distinguishing cuts. The training also shines through in the little touches, like slivers of apple and black brioche buns for the pulled pork sliders, and a distinctly tapas-style flair to the chorizo version. The house’s own favorite, piri-piri chicken, crackles with carefully balanced flavors. But much of the food is deliberately pared down to its most classic, essential form.

“Our side dishes are fairly simple – ‘delightfully plain’ I like to call them. When I was planning the menu, I was tempted to get creative and trendy with the sides, but I realized that all the great barbecue restaurants in America kept things simple. You order beans and they

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scoop some into a styrofoam cup and there it is, an extra cast member to the lead role. When you eat American barbecue, you almost expect that no-frills potato salad.”

This commitment to simplicity doesn’t mean Flores and the Sweet Oak team have decided to rest on their laurels, though.

Flores notes, “We’re constantly experimenting. We’re smoking cuts that have never been smoked before here in Korea, and one month we smoked five different cuts of beef ribs. We’re also one of the few barbecue restaurants in Korea that use a traditional 100 percent wood-fired smoker. We’ve become a destination restaurant. People often drive two hours or more to eat our food. Before we opened, I imagined a few diehards would drive the distance, but I never imagined we’d have out-of-town customers every day. I’d hate to have someone drive that far and have a bad experience, so it really puts the pressure on us even more to deliver a solid product.”

Out-of-towners aren’t the most unusual audience Flores has had for his food, though. In a video that went viral, Sweet Oak hosted North Koreans for their very first taste of American barbeque. “The North Korea video was an old idea of mine, but Chris Kwon Lewis and the team at Digital SojuTV really made the video what it was. I imagined it was just going to be an entertaining tasting video, but it really evolved into much more than that.

It offered viewers a unique insight into North Korean culture you wouldn’t see anywhere else. The barbecue was just the vehicle. We were all thrilled with all the coverage we were getting and all the comments and feedback from people around the world.”

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Sizzlin’ Ribs in Seoul Written by Cynthia Yoo

Once you start on the ribs on this list, you’ll be licking your lips, fingers, chopsticks and all manner of utensils.

Chosun Ok

With 70 years of experience under its belt, Chosun Ok is a classic nopo, which literally means “old shop.” Located in Euljiro 3-ga, it’s surrounded by other nopo restaurants with menus that haven’t changed in over 50 years. Chosun Ok is a barbeque joint. It serves its famous marinated galbi or beef short ribs grilled over charcoal fire. Unlike most barbeque restaurants, there’s no grill at the table. Instead, the grill master grills up

조선옥 소갈비 6-5, Eulji-ro 15-gil, Jung-gu 02-2266-0333

It’s the name that first catches your eye: Beef Ribs Across from the Venus Head Office. But it’s “game over” once you get a taste of their garlic seasoned ribs and altari (young radish) kimchi. As the restaurant is quite small, with only five oil drum grill tables, reservations are highly recommended. The owner Lee Sooho operates the restaurant with his wife, following a career in the food and

비너스본사 건너편 갈비살 82, Juheung-gil, Seocho-gu 010-5311-9879

© Romain John

© Romain John

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© Noe Alonzo

© Noe Alonzo

Beef Ribs Across from the Venus Head Office

the galbi over a giant grill in the kitchen, and the ribs are served on a plate, perfectly done.

Marinated ribs, or yangnyeom galbi, is their signature dish. The marinade is strong, but fans say it is well-balanced and delicious.

There are a few rice or noodle dishes to finish the meal. Interestingly, the restaurant’s daegutang is a misnomer. It isn’t a cod stew but a beef and vegetables soup more commonly known as yukgejang, which became popular in the city of Daegu, hence the name. Naengmyeon, or noodles in cold broth, is another popular post-galbi option, but you may head over to the famous Pyeongyang naengmyeon nopo, Eulji Myeonok, only a hop, skip, and jump away.

Local foodies say that the final stop in an Euljiro matjip tour should be Golbaengi Alley, where you can feast on all the spicy sea snails your stomach can handle.

beverage industry. There’s no particular story behind the name; Lee simply wanted an easy-to-remember name that conveyed both the location and menu. His goal was a small restaurant with a simple Korean menu that would appeal to everyone.

In terms of the main barbeque dish, there are only two choices: garlic marinated beef ribs or bon galbisal, which Lee describes as shabu-shabu style, thinlysliced beef ribs without any seasoning.

The galbi is grilled with a slice of pineapple and chunks of rice-cake that balance the garlic marinade. Customers also love the altari kimchi and the perilla leaf kimchi.

The doenjang jjigae is a real treat with its flavorful broth made from large-eyed herring, or dipori, rather than the usual anchovy stock. The kimchi banchan dishes are so popular, they’re available for sale to customers.

Dining

Oneunjeong Jjokgalbi

The barbeque restaurant is located on a popular street that’s known by many names.

Some call it Gyeongbokgung Seochon; others call it Chebu-dong. Recently, the government designated the street as Sejong Village Food Culture Street. This long, winding road is filled with a diverse array of restaurants, bars and cafés, frequented by even more varied groups of Gwanghwamun office workers, local hipsters, foreign tourists

오는정 쪽갈비 22, Jahamun-ro 1-gil, Jongno-gu 02-735-5718

As the name indicates, there’s no seating here. You stand around an oil drum charcoal grill and enjoy the only item available, beef short ribs. The ribs are marinated in a garlic soy sauce base that’s surprisingly not too sweet, and they come with three additional dipping sauces. A small bowl of green peppers are also part of the set, but there’s no rice, banchan or jjigae. It’s just about ribs here, period.

This Yeonnam-dong barbeque joint boasts over 60 years of experience. They know how to do ribs right, and the long lines are proof.

Even if you wait in line, however, there’s no guarantee as the restaurant only prepares 600 servings per day. The trick is to go early and bring your own rice and kimchi. The restaurant doesn’t provide either but you can go to a nearby convenience store or bring some from home.

연남 서식당 32, Baekbeom-ro 2-gil, Mapo-gu 02-716-2520

© Noe Alonzo

© Noe Alonzo

© Noe Alonzo

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© Romain John

© Romain John

Yeonnam Seo Sikdang

and even Gangnam daytrippers. No matter which group you may belong to, it’s hard to pass by Oneungjeong Jjokgalbi without taking a look in.

The huge barbeque grill at the front doors, where the pork ribs are first grilled by the restaurant, pulls you in with their delicious smoky aroma. The menu is short with three main dishes: marinated jjokgalbi, samgyeopsal and beef galbisal. The most popular, jjokgalbi or marinated pork ribs, are first cooked outside and then placed on a hot stone grill at the table. Various banchan and doenjang jjigae are served with the ribs.

The ribs taste a bit sweet and salty at first, but there’s a spicy kick in the marinade that builds up with each bite. You can round out the meal with a bowl of cold chicken noodle soup (chogye guksu) or steamed egg in a hot pot (gyeranjjim). You’re welcome.

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Fido’s Day Out Drinks for you and your little dog, too Written by Seoul Staff Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

These days, Seoul is obsessing over honsul, a word that means “to drink alone.” But while we’re all for the peace of a solo drink, it’s also a relief to grab a glass with your best friend – or, even, with man’s best friend. That’s right: many of the city’s watering holes are opening themselves up to dogs. And we don’t mean dog cafés, those fur-covered (though lovely) dog playgrounds that happen to sell smoothies. We’re talking about real bars, with real menus, and dogs are allowed to come. So grab a leash, make sure Fido remembers “sit” and “stay,” and go out for a drink with your dog.

Patio D

Hongdae: Hipster Hounds The colorful, musical student neighborhood of Hongdae was home to one of Korea’s first big, popular dog cafés, Bau House, which in its early years was the hot destination for Seoul’s dog lovers. In Bau House’s influential wake have come human restaurants that are friendly to canine companions. One of the best-known is Patio D, an Italian joint with a short but carefully curated wine list. The first floor is for humans only, but small dogs and people can dine together on the second. Larger dogs are welcome on the open-air rooftop, which looks out into a view of the street below.

Itaewon: Wild and Free The diverse, colorful backstreets of international Itaewon are home to much of Seoul’s foreign community, and

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Southside Parlor

that community’s beloved pups. As a result, many of the terraces in and around Itaewon won’t complain if your well-behaved dog happens to sneak along with you for a round or two. But there are some bars and restaurants that make a point to welcome dogs of all kinds.

Near Gyeongnidan, cocktail masters Southside Parlor have a Puppy Night Special every Thursday night on their spacious rooftop. Humans can get discounts on wine, and four-leggers are free to run around the whole fenced, faux-grass space. Meanwhile, over in Haebangchon, dogs are always welcome at neighborhood pubs Phillies and Hair of the Dog, adding to the homey atmosphere. Dogs are also free to browse the wares and enjoy the music at Hidden Cellar and The Workshop, a bottle shop and pub operated by the same owners.

Nightlife

Hotel Cappuccino

Café Kudeta

Gangnam: Canines with Class South of the river, it’s a dog’s life. Gangnam boasts what seems to be the country’s highest concentration of veterinarians and “dog hotels” (i.e. babysitters for when you’re away) per square mile. You can’t swing a cat without hitting at least one animal hospital or groomer filled with tiny, pampered pooches.

Gangnam also has plenty of room for dogs in its bars and restaurants. Hotel Cappuccino in Nonhyeon made waves when it opened offering canine-friendly “Bark Rooms.” Dogs are also allowed on the terrace of Cappuccino’s first-floor Caffé. The gate there closes to the street, preventing any tailwaggers from wandering off while their owners enjoy a beer. On the other side of the neighborhood, Hey Cotta is a restaurant that serves both dog-lovers and dogs delicious dishes – steak, pasta, and even a dog-friendly coffee are on the menu. Owners sit at tables, while dogs lounge in crib-like pens. Note that the pens likely won’t contain big dogs, or talented jumpers.

Meanwhile, at Apgujeong’s Rodeo Street, you’ll find Café Kudeta, a casual eatery that serves pasta, salad, churros and beer, and was one of the first in the neighborhood to allow dogs inside. Nearby, gourmet roastery Mark Lane Coffee has another dog-friendly terrace with secure fencing so dogs can run and play.

Around the corner from that, Gyemong Bottle & Tap House has room for dogs on its patio – the owner himself is said to be a dog lover. And of course, when all’s eaten and done, you and your furry friend can take a walk together at Dosan Park, one of the loveliest spots in Gangnam.

Phillies

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From Compton to Seoul Cycadelic Records’ Kirk Kim builds bridges through hip-hop Written by Rhiannon Shepherd Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

Although Kirk Kim says he chose the hip-hop life, some might say that it was the other way around. The son of a North Korean refugee, Kim moved from Seoul to California when he was just six months old. There, during the early 1980s, his parents began selling music records at a local Compton swap meet. The stall was an unprecedented hit, and by the mid 80s, Cycadelic Music Corner, then a sizeable store in the Compton Fashion Center, had become one of California’s most iconic record stores and treasure trove for hip-hop enthusiasts

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looking to pick up the latest underground tracks.

“I grew up surrounded by hip-hop music,” says Kim, reminiscing about big stars like DJ Quik and Suga Free being shop regulars. “But my parents never forced this kind of career on me. Their influence was very organic.

They were always open to and supportive of whatever I wanted to do.”

Kim’s parents, Wan Joon and Boo Ja Kim, were known for extending their support to the local hiphop community by giving Cycadelic Music Corner’s

Nightlife

shelf space to fledgling musicians rejected by more commercial retailers. The couple are credited with helping kickstart the careers of many now-famous artists – their store was one of the first to stock N.W.A.’s legendary record Straight Outta Compton – gaining Wan Joon the nickname “Pops” in the local rap community. It is no coincidence that Kendrick Lamar can be seen dancing on the rooftop of the Compton Fashion Center in the music video for his 2015 release, “King Kunta.”

Entertainment, communication, expression Whether by luck or design, Kirk Kim decided his calling was rooted firmly in hip-hop, too. He began his first foray into the industry booking shows for a musician friend in Japan. In 2013, Kim launched LA-based entertainment agency Cycadelic Records, channeling the values of his parents’ store and offering backing and promotion to up-and-coming hip-hop artists. The label opened an office in Gangnam earlier this year. Artists currently signed include Bone Thugs & Harmony and Baby Eazy-E, along with Korea’s Absint, Loco and “Show Me the Money” superstar KillaGramz.

“Korea’s hip-hop scene is definitely changing, thanks in part to programs like ‘Show Me the Money,’” says Kim. “It’s becoming more global. A lot of these kids now will rap in English. More and more KoreanAmericans are becoming involved.”

“I’d love for some of these Korean artists to make a name for themselves in the U.S. I want Korean hip-hop to become a hit over there, like American hip-hop is here. That’s what I’m aiming for with my label: to build a bridge between Korea and the U.S.” The Cycadelic team also recently launched Club Compton in Itaewon, a venue “with an underground feel,” says Kim. “A place where everyone is welcome.”

The club has played host to some big names in both Korean and American hip-hop, like DJ Yella, Twista and Mr. Capone-e. The team aims to begin offering open mic nights for lesser-known local artists to showcase their skills.

For now, Kim alternates between spending two weeks in Cali and two weeks in Seoul, fostering business links between the two. He has plans to open a second record store in Hongdae. “Hip-hop derived from the streets as a form of entertainment, but also as a form of communication. The genre often cries about the injustice of a government or a people,” he explains.

“Korea has been through war, suffered injustice. Hiphop for us is about expressing these things artistically. I will always be here for that.”

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Follow Kirk Kim on Instagram @comptonkirk

Club Compton, B1 Yoochang Building, Itaewon-dong 124-4

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Simply Fashion You’ve spring-cleaned your wardrobe, now what? We take a look at some staple pieces to add to a minimalist closet that are both wearable and sustainable Written by Zakiyya Latif

The spring-cleaning season is over! So, you’ve scaled down your wardrobe to the pieces you enjoy, wear regularly and that fit your style. You’ve gotten rid of the “donate” and “throw away” piles that have been taking up space in the middle of your floor. Great! Now what?

After decluttering, it’s worth investing in a few staple items to fill the gaps in your closet. The conundrum of the overflowing wardrobe with nothing to wear can easily be avoided with a few simple and well-thought out purchases. Although the temptation might be to maintain variety, resist! Avoid the trap of buying throw-away pieces that won’t be wearable past this season, and instead look for adaptable items that will upgrade your style, making your summer outfits “pop” both this year and the next.

The key to keeping your newly-minimalized closet space well-curated is to select clothes and accessories that are simple, classic and, most importantly, versatile.

Lucky for those of us looking to simplify our shopping choices, in response to a growing global demand for fashion with more long-term wearability, a minimal “ecochic” aesthetic is emerging in both fashion design and home décor. This trend can be seen both in Korea and abroad. Whether plain in color, with neutrals, solids and muted tones over bold colors and loud prints, or minimal in actual number of wardrobe items, minimalist fashion is becoming increasingly popular. Less, in the case of a truly sustainable wardrobe, is most definitely more.

Quality materials such as metal, leather and natural fabrics paired with earth-tones and plant textiles have created a fresh ease in fashion. Modern minimalist design incorporates both organic and architectural shapes, allowing for a wide spectrum of style choices.

Join the many individuals consciously investing in wellmade, versatile pieces, as opposed to reaching for fast fashion that appeals to fleeting trends. Keep your daily looks fresh and well put-together with these 5 essential items to add to your de-cluttered summer wardrobe.

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Bass Bag, KRW 138,00, 4deaworks.com

Oui Rope Bag, USD 20, cherrykoko. com

Large shoulder bag For a classic bag that can be worn day or night, look for a simple leather shoulder bag. Canvas or woven shoulder bags offer a more relaxed style, while natural, lightweight fiber bags are perfect for the summer season. Shoulder bags are not just for the beach! Available in a variety of sizes, patterns and shapes, you will most certainly find the perfect eco-bag to match your look.

Set of Multi-Gold Rings, KRW 54,400, bimbaylola.com

Chained Collar Necklace, USD 258, anthropologie.com

Mixed metal Mixing gold, copper, brass and silver jewelry can really update and diversify your look. Choose jewelry that can easily be worn together daily, mixing both metals and designs for a unique flare. Pair thin bangles with thicker rope-twisted bracelets, or a thin gold chain necklace with a thick silver choker. Experiment with different pieces until you find the combination that works best for you.

Shopping

Leather Slide Flat Sandals, USD 111, us.asos.com

Patterned Scarf, KRW 11,000, hm.com/ko_kr

Slim Lace Up Espadrilles, KRW 31,800, stylenanda.com

Blue Bird Print Scarf, KRW 86,400, bimbaylola.com

Patterned scarf Adding a patterned scarf is the perfect way to break up neutral colors in your outfit. Scarves are hugely versatile, and can be styled in an infinite number of ways. Get creative. A square scarf casually wrapped around the neck will give the same outfit a completely different look when tied around the head as a turban. Choose a scarf with colors that contrast but also complement the shades in your wardrobe.

Casual leather sandals A stylish sandal is a must-have summer essential. This season, instead of springing for heavily embellished sandals that risk going out of style quickly, invest in welldesigned, minimalist leather pair. Pass on the rivets, studs, rhinestones and tassels often quick to loosen, fall off or break. Instead, a sleek and casual mule, slide or espadrille will transition between both day and night time and give you a polished look from head to toe!

Long, breezy, belted jacket For those days that start off warm and then turn breezy, a thin trench coat, kimono or duster jacket is an essential addition to your minimalist wardrobe. When choosing one of these layering pieces, keep in mind the color palette of your current closet. Choose nude, khaki or gray, depending on the shades you usually wear.

Minimalist Fashion Inspiration For more minimalist fashion inspiration, check out these style and lifestyle bloggers on instagram: Y.A.S. Tall Crane Printed Kimono Wrap, GBP 70, asos.com

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Linen Trench, KRW 119,000, zara.com

@oraclefox: high-end, minimalist fashion @i.hyun: earthy, sustainable styling @yeelaine_: simple, stylish streetwear

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Cinema

Bucheon Film Fest to Showcase Jeon Do-yeon Special Program Asia’s largest genre film festival celebrates the career of one of Korea’s most revered actresses Written by Jason Bechervaise

Reflecting the local appetite for cinema, there are a variety of film festivals in Korea. The Bucheon International Fantastic Film Festival (BIFAN), which takes place from July 13 to 23, is primarily focused on genre fare, thereby distinguishing it from other festivals like Jeonju and Busan.

About to embark on its 21st edition, it has become one of the most prominent genre film festivals in Asia. For Seoulites, the proximity of Bucheon, a satellite city of Seoul, makes is easy to get to and it is a great opportunity to watch Korean films with English subtitles.

‘Contact, Jeon Do-yeon’

“Contact, Jeon Do-yeon” Program. Courtesy of BIFAN.

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This year, the festival is to spotlight one of Korean cinema’s most recognizable faces on the big screen, Jeon Do-yeon.

Her long-standing and impressive career, which spans three decades, began in television in the late 1980s. In 1997, she rose to stardom following her acclaimed role in the now-classic melodrama “The Contact,” directed by Chang Yoon-hyun.

Starring alongside Han Suk-kyu, who also became a major acting icon, the film was a box office hit and won Best Picture at Korea’s Grand Bell Awards. The film also came when commercial Korean cinema was entering a new era – a rebirth, so to speak – followings years of limited growth or even decline.

It is the name of this film that serves as the title of BIFAN’s upcoming retrospective, “Contact, Jeon Do-yeon,” giving audiences an opportunity to come and see the variety of characters she has embodied. The 17 films in total screening at the festival include “No Blood, No Tears” (2002), “My Mother,

the Mermaid” (2004), “Secret Sunshine” (2007), “The Housemaid” (2010), “Countdown” (2011), “The Shameless” (2015) and “Memories of the Sword” (2015).

Jeon Do-yeon and BIFAN Jeon’s career is also meaningful to BIFAN because they screened “The Contact” twenty years ago at the festival’s inaugural edition. The role marked her silver screen big break before cementing her reputation as one of Korea’s greatest actresses. As such, it isn’t just domestic viewers who are fully aware of Jeon’s accomplishments, made evident by Jeon’s winning the coveted Best Actress award in Cannes in 2007 for her widely lauded role in Lee Chang-dong’s “Secret Sunshine.”

This was the first time a Korean actor or actress had taken home the award, which was a significant moment for the Korean film industry. She is, therefore, an actress who commands a great deal of respect both locally and internationally and also a favorite among many critics.

Program features special talk, exhibition and more The BIFAN special program will also include a press conference, a publication of a book and an exhibition featuring stills and posters of her films, along with a special talk between the actress and audience giving viewers an opportunity to see the actress in person and ask questions about her illustrious career.

Arts & Entertainment

TV

Youn’s Kitchen: Where Your Dreams Come True Producer Na Young-seok conjures another hit with a dose of vicarious satisfaction Written by Lee Jungjin

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© Yonhap News

“Youn’s Kitchen,” another Na Youngseok’s project, ended on May 19. The nine-episode show, starring Youn Yeojung, Jung Yu-mi, Shin Gu and Lee Seo-jin, focused on the four running a Korean restaurant in Bali for about 10 days. Na Young-seok, one of the top TV producers in Korea, directed several hit shows, including the “Flowers” series, which followed actors traveling abroad; the “Three Meals a Day” series, showing the cast making their own meals by themselves to survive in rural villages; and “Newlywed Diary,” starring a newlymarried celebrity couple to show what a real marriage looks like.

When it was first announced that Na Young-seok’s new reality show was about opening a Korean restaurant in Bali, some people cast doubt on the show’s success.

“It struck me as one of those shows,” said Kim Hyun-jeong, an office worker in her thirties. “It was because I thought the idea was basically food and travel, which have been a big trend for a couple of years now.” Besides, many wondered why Na Young-seok picked Lee Seo-jin again, after going with Lee on “Grandpas Over Flowers” and “Three Meals a Day.” “Lee is just so useful in many ways,” said Mr. Na during a press conference announcing his new project. “He studied business and speaks English. And every time I start a new show, he has nothing to do.”

For all the concerns, “Youn’s Kitchen” proved to be quite a success. It started off strongly, with a viewership rating of 6.2 percent for its first episode, according to Nielsen Korea. The show recorded its peak viewership rating of 14.1 percent with its sixth episode, the highest rating in its time slot. “I could live a dream life as

I watched the show,” said Kim, who was previously skeptical about the show but later turned into its fervent fan. “If you’ve ever been to Bali, you can’t stop thinking about living there. It’s a great place where you don’t have to rush anything.” Indeed, many critics say the secrets behind the show’s popularity might be the vicarious satisfaction that viewers could get. As “Youn’s Kitchen” depicted a slow life in Bali, which stood in stark contrast to a hectic life in Seoul, more viewers were attracted to the show, imagining how their life would be if they lived on the island.

Some point out that Na Young-seok’s success derives from the food and travel theme, which never fails on Korean TV. Many of his fans have different ideas, though. “If you make a cup of fruit juice, you need fresh fruit,” said Kim, when asked how she thought about the star producer. “But you also need to know how to mix them. I think he knows how to make a tasty juice, and I have confidence in anything with his name on it.”

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Music

Gummy Returns After Nine Years From jazz to hip-hop, ‘Stroke’ is a decidedly unique comeback Written by Kristina Manente

© c-jes entertainment

Gummy is finally back with her fifth album, “Stroke.” While she came out with a mini album three years ago and has graced many a K-drama sound tracks, hit series “Descendants of the Sun” included, it’s been nearly a decade since her last full-length album.

While “Stroke” has a bit of everything, including some jazzy elements in the tracks “A Knowing” and “Tip For Love,” “Stroke” can be safely nestled in the R&B camp with more pop elements than her previous work.

The album was a collaboration with rapper Gil, who had nothing but praise for Gummy and her creative decisions with her new comeback. “I think I would compare this new album to a prism,” he said. “Instead of confining herself to just one color, Gummy has filled the album with a variety of

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genres that she has wanted to try.” He explained, “We started working on the songs with the main focus on Gummy’s sincerity as a singer. We wanted to create songs that offer comfort and healing, even to Gummy while she’s singing, instead of going for songs that have mass appeal.”

It’s unlikely everyone will love everything about “Stroke.” It jumps around a touch too much. While everything has that R&B feel, one track will be quite poppy, while another will swing too far in the opposite direction, with a strange Middle Eastern rap hybrid sound like in “Stop Talking,” featuring Cheetah. What cannot be denied is that Gummy has powerhouse vocals. She’s solid throughout the album, even if some production choices don’t ultimately serve her.

“Room Service” is strange, with its television intro that disjoints the entire track from the beginning before the marimbas come in (no joking), and “Live This On” is instantly forgettable as it’s rather boring, and whoever encouraged Gummy to sing so breathy doesn’t appreciate the strength of her voice. While it’s good to see artists taking more creative control and experimenting, especially in a Korean music scene so saturated with the same sound, perhaps some restraint should be used to showcase the best final product.

The title track, “I I YO,” does not disappoint, however. It highlights the message not to give up on chasing your dreams. It’s a gorgeous song, proving to be inspiring and to encourage repeat listens without needing to rely on poppy cliches or a resounding chorus. It’s also the song that’s the album’s music video, starring labelmate Kim Jaejoong.

Other highlights include “Loving You,” a very pretty ballad with heart; “Rollin’ Around With You,” which lets Gummy’s vocals take center stage; and ironically “Outro.” “Stroke” may not be a runaway hit, but it’s a unique addition to anyone’s discography and hopefully encourages more artists to branch out and maybe try to reach a bit too far.

Arts & Entertainment

Books

Graphic Understanding Hong Yeon-Sik’s manhwa “Uncomfortably Happily” explores marriage, success and contemporary Korean society Written by Charles Montgomery

Magazine

all the plot details are the love and commitment that Hong and his wife keep for each other. This commitment ties the story together and gives it a universal and comprehensible theme that should make it interesting even to readers who may not catch all the cultural elements in the novel.

And there are Korean cultural elements aplenty. The focus on the importance of food to bonding, drinking culture and even fistfights with trees will bring a chuckle of recognition to those who have lived in Korea and open a window into the culture for those who haven’t. It is sometimes difficult to determine what is meant to be “real,” as Hong also includes long flashbacks, digressions and scenes of fantasy. The effort is worth it, however, for Hong’s clever takes on these aspects of Korean culture.

The illustration is good, reminiscent of Lynda Barry in its simple depiction of people and Shigeru Mizuki in that landscapes and backgrounds mix realistic and impressionist elements in an extremely evocative way. As the back cover notes, the artwork “ranges from the gently pastoral to the surreal and harrowing.” There is also a touch of modernism in the narrative. When Hong attempts to concentrate, his head splits open to reveal the distractions lurking within; characters on the written page can climb out to badger and haunt Hong, and worries multiply so quickly that they physically overstuff the page.

The translation, by Californian cartoonist Hellen Jo, is economical and easy to read.

“Uncomfortably Happily” is several

© Drawn & Quarterly Publications

“Uncomfortably Happily” by Hong Yeon-Sik, is a daunting book to look at, laying nearly two-inches thick with almost 600 pages. The good news is that “Uncomfortably Happily” is a Korean-style graphic novel, or manhwa; consequently, it can be read at crackling speed. The story is uncomplicated, based on the author’s own experience in 2006, when he moved out of Seoul to the countryside. The character Hong and his wife Sohmi are struggling artists who have moved from the 24-7 hustle and bustle of Seoul to a house at a place they call their “bamboo mountain.”

They enter their run-down house with an eye towards a less-complicated lifestyle and a desire, a necessity, really, to pinch pennies. In fact, not much happens to the couple, but Hong (both author and character) manages to demonstrate that the devil is in the details, and even the smallest lives can be epic.

Winter seems endless and money is scarce. They regularly run into small problems that loom large in their isolated situation. The couple muddles through. It becomes clear that whatever problems Hong has, they are not related to geographical location; rather, they are located within him. Hong dreams of success, but procrastination, a form of self-loathing and a seemingly inexhaustible store of anger cripples his work. His wife, on the other hand, enjoys a notable bit of success, which eventually helps Hong to understand himself.

And that is what the story is really about: Hong coming to understand himself and his marriage. Underneath

things at once: an ambitious and successful graphic novel; a work of literature; a commentary on Korean life; and the story of an ultimately successful marriage. It is published by Drawn & Quarterly and is available on their website and from the standard online book-sellers. “Uncomfortably Happily” is worth reading if you are interested in a wry family tale, Korean graphic novels, or an introduction a wide range of Korean modern culture.

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Concerts, Festivals and More

Delighting You Always

16TH DONGGANG INTERNATIONAL PHOTO FESTIVAL

The Donggang International Photo Festival aims to promote Korea’s photography scene through exhibits, workshops and other educational programs. This year’s main exhibit, which features 14 photographers around the world, revolves around the theme of “I conflict, therefore I am.”

With the works of participating artists, the exhibit presents an opportunity to further examine the many facets of such conflicts – public and private – and to tell a story of how those conflicts unravel in real life.

ⓒ 정동석

16th

2017 7.14(FRI) - 10.1(SUN)

DongGang Museum of Photography July 14-Oct. 1 KRW 2,000 T. 033-375-4554 Buses to Yeongwol depart from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal, Central Bus terminal (travel time: 2 hours)

강원도 영월군 영월읍 영월로 1909-10

033-375-4554

ROADS OF ARABIA: THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL TREASURES OF SAUDI ARABIA Thru Aug. 27 | National Museum of Korea | Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line), Exit 2 | KRW 6,000 | T. 1688-0361

“Roads of Arabia: The Archaeological Treasures of Saudi Arabia” is the first large-scale survey of the history and culture of Arabian Peninsula in Korea. Tracing ancient incense trade routes and early-Islamic pilgrimage roads that once spanned the peninsula, 466 objects ranging from human-shaped steles dating back the fourth millennium B.C. to gilded doors that once graced the entrance to the Ka’ba at Mecca will be displayed. “Roads of Arabia” is organized by the National Museum of Korea and the Saudi Commission for Tourism and National Heritage of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.

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Les Toits rouges, 1908, oil on canvas, 79 x 92 cm

MAURICE DE VLAMINCK Thru Aug. 20 | Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5.

Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429. | KRW 13,000 | T. 580-1300

Along with Henri Matisse, French painter Maurice de Vlaminck was one of the fathers of the Fauvist movement.

His exuberant paint application and vibrant use of color from his early works displayed the influence of Vincent van Gogh.

Under the influence of Paul Cezanne’s work, he adopted a more subdued palette and turned to painting landscapes with solid compositions. Later, in the 1920s, he turned to a more realistic style of painting, characterized by earthy color and simplied forms. Vlaminck’s first exhibition in Korea features 70 works of his oil paintings and lithographs.

Previews

MONET’S IMPRESSIONISM EXHIBITION BonDaVinci Museum July 7-Oct. 29 KRW 15,000 T. 1661-0553 Children’s Grand Park Station 어린이대공원역 (Line 7), Exit 1

Production company BonDaVinci’s 2016 exhibit based on Monet’s work was a smash hit that drew 5,000 people a day. BonDaVinci’s convergence art marries 2D and 3D technology to produce an interactive exhibit that vividly demonstrates the beauty of light. Monet’s work comes to life in large-scale, moving displays that are accompanied by music, making the exhibit a perfect place for relaxing and healing. The exhibit is divided into several sections based on a theme, including Giverny, water lilies and the painter’s beloved wife, Camille.

Magazine

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BLACK STRING: BLUE SHADE National Theater of Korea July 21 KRW 30,000 T. 02-2280-4114 Take the shuttle bus from in front of Taegeukdang, near Dongkuk University Station 동대입구역 (Line 3), Exit 2.

Highly praised by Song Lines, a music magazine in the U.K., Black String offers music of modernity and unique beauty that achieves the harmony of Korean traditional music and the spontaneity of jazz. The team recently entered a contract with ACT, one of the largest jazz labels in Europe. Heo Yun-jeong, a Geomungo master, plays the central part in the team which also includes Oh Jeong-su (guitar), Lee A-ram (Daegeum) and Hwang Minwang (percussion). They are asked to perform at numerous festivals and art markets such as Roskilde Festival and World Music Expo (WOMEX). The team aims to offer not just the natural combination of eastern and western music, but also the energy and dynamism beyond imagination.

© 2017 Giants Are Small LP. Photo by Tracey Salazar

PETER AND THE WOLF IN HOLLYWOOD July 9 | Seoul Arts Center | Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429. | KRW 20,000120,000 | T. 1644-3229

Prokofiev’s 1936 children’s classic gets a reboot as an interactive musical adventure. In this untold prequel, the newly orphaned Peter flies from Russia to Los Angeles to live with his grandfather, an aging hippie who works in the film industry.

Unable to make friends, he instead befriends the animals around him, including a duck and a bird. One day, however, he becomes a hero to the animals when he catches a wolf that had escaped from the zoo. Christopher Lee and the Korean Symphony Orchestra handle the soundtrack, which includes work from Prokofiev, Wagner, Mahler and others.

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Drawing hands2, 74x59, 1948

ESCHER: THE BOUNDARY BETWEEN SPACE AND TIME Thru Oct. 15 | Sejong Museum of Art, Sejong Center | Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 1 or 8 | KRW 13,000 | T. 02-399-1000

This is the first Korean exhibition of M.C. Escher, the Dutch printmaker who dealt with mathematical objects and logic.

Escher made 448 engravings, which consist of very fine lines, and left more than 2,000 sketches. While somewhat neglected as an artist during his time – he was 70 before he got a retrospective exhibit – his influence on art, mathematics and even pop culture has been enormous. His work now adorns countless posters, t-shirts and ties.

Previews

ADIOS, PIAZZOLLA Seoul Arts Center July 23 KRW 35,000-75,000 T. 02-2658-3546 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5.

Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

This concert brings to Korean audiences not only the “nuevo tango” music of beloved Argentine composer Astor Piazzolla, which mixes the tango with elements of jazz and other genres, but also the older, more traditional tango classics of Buenos Aires. Japanese tango band Cuatrocientos, which has taken a leading role in repopularizing Piazzolla’s music, takes the stage. Three teams of some of the world’s best tango dancers have flown in from Argentina to bring the music to life.

Magazine

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Expat Buzz SEOUL SKETCH

Saturday Morning Illustrated and written by Louis Barnard

Take an early Saturday morning stroll through almost any alleyway in Seoul and you will be met with small hole-in-the-wall bars and restaurants. They will all be closed, of course, as it is morning time and the owners and potential customers would still be snoozing or slowly getting up. Traces from the night before will still be evident on the sidewalks as you pass these quaint little

JANKURA ARTSPACE EVENTS FOR JULY Throughout July Jankura Artspace, Itaewon Jankura Artspace is hosts a wide range of art-related events in July, including Cage Fight Sketch Night, Klimt Night, Degas’ Dancer by Daylight, Wine & Pop Art Painting, classes on watercolors, the start of the Summer Printmaking Sessions and more. jankuraseoul.com

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE IN KOREA July 1 Changdeok Girls’ Middle School Canada Day is always our biggest day of the year. A day for an outdoor BBQ, cool drinks, an awesome DJ, and plenty of fun activities for the kids. You’ll get a one-of-a-kind Canada 150 in Seoul event T-shirt, an eco-bag, and have

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a chance to win some great raffle prizes. It’s also a great opportunity for a company picnic with business associates and their families too.

KRW 45,000 canchamkorea.org

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: YONGCHU WATER FALLS July 1 Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-do The Seoul Hiking Nature Group goes to the Yongchu River and Falls for some hiking, river trekking, swimming and cliff jumping.

KRW 28,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: YANGJAE FLOWER MARKET July 6 Yangjae Flower Market Located in Yangjae-dong in Seocho-gu, this enormous market sells all kinds of garden supplies,

eateries: empty soju bottles packed away in blue crates alongside stacked plastic red stools and folded tables. Here and there, some plastic bags filled with old beer cans and cigarette butts will be neatly tied up and ready to be taken away. Only much later in the day will the doors be opened to hungry and thirsty weekenders.

from pots and soil to flowers and trees. Real and artificial items are sold from both wholesale and retail vendors. This market is a combination of greenhouses, indoor and outdoor vendors. This is the place to go for both novice and serious gardeners seeking more than just cut flowers and small plants.

KRW 5,000 for members, KRW 15,000 for non-members siwapage.com

AMCHAM: AMCHAM GENERAL MEMBERSHIP MEETING July 7 Lotte Hotel, Sogong-dong H.E. Chung Sye-kyun, Speaker of the National Assembly, addresses AMCHAM’s General Membership Meeting.

KRW 59,000 for members, KRW 79,000 for non-members www.amchamkorea.org

SIWA: GOLD LEAF IMPRINTING WORKSHOP July 10 Near Anguk Station Make your own Geumbak, or gold leaf imprint, in a traditional Korean Hanok. Geumbak is the Korean traditional craft for applying extremely thin gold leaf on Hanbok or other fabrics for decoration.

Artisans who specialize in the technique are called Geumbakjang.

KRW 10,000-60,000 (members only) siwapage.com

RASKB: THE PROGENY OF FALLEN ROYALS: THE GAESEONG WANG IN JOSEON KOREA July 11 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace University of Pennsylvania associate professor Eugene Y. Park examines the history of the Wang clan, the royal family of Goryeo, under the

kings of the subsequent dynasty, Joseon.

Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

THE SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: SNORKELING AT JANGHO BEACH July 15 Samcheok, Gangwon-do Located on the east coast of Korea in Samcheok, Jangho Beach is a dazzling beach that boasts spectacular crystal clear water, making it the perfect place to go snorkeling.

KRW 57,200-71,500 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

BASS: SEOUL SUMMER WALKS – GYEONGUI LINE FOREST PARK July 19 Gyeongui Line Forest Park

Expat Buzz

When the Gyeongui railway line was run partially underground, the Gyeongui Line Forest Park was created above ground in it’s place. It's a unique space where everyone can enjoy urban culture and greenery at the same time.

With quiet tree lined paths, hidden cafés, statues and interesting shops and art galleries, the trail is ideal for a summer morning stroll, so come along and join.

Free for members, KRW 5,000 for non-members www.britishseoul.com

SIWA: BUK SEOUL MUSEUM OF ART July 20 Buk Seoul Museum of Art This is the fourth and newest branch of the Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA). Situated in northeastern Seoul, this unique museum was awarded the 2013 Seoul Architecture Award. To create harmony with the natural surroundings of Deungnamu Park, the exterior is half buried in the ground and creates a small hill.

KRW 5,000 for members, KRW 15,000 for non-members siwapage.com

SIWA: HOMEPLUS SHOPPING EXPERIENCE July 21 Home Plus Have you walked around a Seoul grocery store and asked yourself, “Is this salt or is this sugar? Are these items sold by the piece or by weight? Are these eggs organic?

Will the butcher cut off these fish heads for me?” Mrs. Moon has experience with western tastes and Korean grocery stores. This tour takes place in Home Plus where Mrs. Moon will point out familiar foods, teach you Korean food words you need to know, and provide suggestions for new foods you might like to try. You might want to bring a camera (or phone with a camera) and a notepad to help you remember what is being discussed.

KRW 10,000 for members, KRW 20,000 for non-members siwapage.com

THE SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: BORYEONG MUD FESTIVAL AT DAECHON BEACH July 22 Boryeong, Chungcheongnam-do

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY: COLORFUL SUMMER PACKAGE

The 20th Boryeong Mud Festival will be held at Daecheon Beach on the west coast of Korea for seven days starting July 21 until July 30.

Events will be spread along the scenic beach resort throughout the festival, including a competition for a “Mud King and Queen” and “Miss Mud,” bathing in a massive mud tub, mud massages, a mud dancing contest and a mud photo contest.

KRW 38,000 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

THE SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: SURFING AT YANGYANG BEACH July 22 Yangyang, Gangwon-do Three hours away from Seoul, on the east coast of Korea, Yangyang boasts great waves and good wind conditions, making it the best destination to go surfing in Korea.

Participants will visit Surfyy Beach, which is a hip private beach for surfers with the best facilities.

KRW 45,000-137,500 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: MUD FESTIVAL BORYEONG July 22-23 Boryeong, Chungcheongnam-do The Boryeong Mud festival is proudly the most popular mud festival in the world. Join the Seoul Hiking Nature Group for some dirty, muddy fun.

KRW 69,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

The Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel is now offering its Colorful Summer Package for an exciting summer vacation. This package includes a one-night stay in a Club Room with club benefits, including express check-in at the 38th floor Club Lounge with stunning views of the city, a continental breakfast for two, and happy hours to enjoy coffee, tea and snacks. Guests will receive an “eco-bag” at check-in. This surprise gift includes a limited summer edition of the hotel’s mascot, D-Bear, wearing a Hawaiian shirt and holding a surfboard. Also included in the eco-bag are organic skincare products from Dr. Bronner’s, which will randomly include a “3-Pax” of magic soaps or a magic bar.

The price for the Colorful Summer Package starts from KRW 290,000 (exclusive of tax) and the package is available through Aug. 31. T. 02-2211-2100.

“Brighten your Smile, Brighten your Life” International Prosthodontics & Implants Dental Clinic.

CERECTM is a cutting edge CAD/

CAM system for providing all-ceramic restorations in a single visit. Patients receive custom, hand-crafted inlays, veneers, crowns & bridges in our clinic.

Cerec Doctor : One-visit IP&I is a name you can trust.

Dr. Paik, Sung ki

dentistry. Over 6,000 restorations since 2005. Korea’s leading Cerec specialist.

Serving our patients with customized, doctor’s hand-crafted restorations.

DDS, MSD, Ph. D Member of American Prosthodontic Society

Magazine Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite #306, 2gil 7 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-140 KOREA Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr

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RASKB: WOMEN AND BUDDHISM: ENGAGING ZEN MASTER KIM IRYOP July 25 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace Why and how do women engage with Buddhism? This is a leading question that this presentation tries to explore by examining the life and thoughts of a Korean Zen Buddhist nun Kim Iryop (18961971). The lecturer, Jin Y. Park, is professor of philosophy and religion and the founding director of the Asian Studies Program at American University.

BASS: SEOUL SUMMER WALKS - SEOCHO AND MONTMARTRE PARK July 26 Seocho and Montmartre Park This woodland walk through the centre of Seoul heads uphill a little before crossing the Silk Bridge and heading into the French inspired Montmartre Park, a perfect place for a picnic. You can head down to the subway from here or carry on along the pine tree-lined trail to Bangbae station and a well earned stop at the coffee shop.

Free for members, KRW 5,000 for non-members www.britishseoul.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: MOUNTAIN CAMP RETREAT July 29-30 Donggang River, Gangwondo The Seoul Hiking Nature Group goes on a weekend retreat to the breathtaking beautiful mountains and Donggang River of Yeongwol.

KRW 78,0000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

–––––––––––––––––––––––––– REGULAR EVENTS ––––––––––––––––––––––––––

SEOUL TOASTMASTERS Every Thursday 7:15 p.m.

Jongno We won’t teach you to make great toast. But if you want to learn to speak in front of people and get over your fear of public speaking, consider Seoul Toastmasters.

Jonggak Station (Line 1) Exit 10, TOZ study center KRW 6,000 for all attendees www.seoultm.org

LEARN CERAMICS WITH SARAH’ MICS

Want to learn the art of ceramics?

Ceramic designer and former Emirates flight attendant Sarah Kang offers a full range of classes for adults and children, including introductory workshops, in English.

Basic classes include the “wheel and hand-building” class and kids pottery class. Regular classes meet once or twice a week, while oneday classes are held every Saturday.

You will learn the skills to produce your own functional or artistic ceramics. Reservation required.

KRW 70,000 (one-day class) T. 010-9515-3180

SEOUL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY

The Seoul Shakespeare Company is the city’s only English-language theater company devoted entirely to performing Shakespeare’s works.

See their website for audition and show information. www.seoulshakespearecompany. org

THEATRE AMOEBA

Theatre Amoeba is an international physical theater project created in 2002. Amoeba’s ambition is to create, educate and exchange through intercultural performances and rigorous workshops around the planet. www.theatreamoeba.org

SELF-STUDY KOREAN CLASSES

Every Tuesday at 4 p.m.

You Are Here Café Bring your Korean books and any questions you may have to this café in Hongdae every Tuesday. A teacher from talktomeinkorean. com will be present to provide free assistance as you practice your fluency and ask questions. Talk to Me in Korean suggests that you RSVP before attending, as space is limited.

Free Hongik University Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 3 www.talktomeinkorean.com

WEDNESDAY COMEDY NIGHT Every Wednesday Tony’s Aussie Bar and Bistro Ever thought about taking your humor to the next level and trying stand-up? Tony’s Bar has a supportive and encouraging crowd that makes it the perfect atmosphere to give performing a try. With its limited space and comedian fan base, Tony’s is always filled with people who know what it feels like to try to make a room of people laugh.

Free www.facebook.com/pages/TonysAussie-Bar-Bistro/ Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 1

MAGPIE BREWERY CLASSES Offered monthly Magpie Brew Co. in Gyeongnidan and Hongdae Learn how to brew your own beer while acquiring some history and insight into what makes this beverage so tasty. Participants can choose to take just one introductory class or take the fullmonth course, which includes four classes.

KRW 50,000-180,000 www.magpiebrewing.com

MAKGEOLLI MAMAS & PAPAS Regular monthly meetings Throughout Seoul Makgeolli Mamas & Papas seeks to build a community for those interested in Korea’s makgeolli culture. This means home-brewing resources, bar information and regular meetings. mmpkorea.wordpress.com

BREW POTLUCK Every first Saturday Seoul Homebrew, Itaewon An opportunity for brewers in Korea to share some beer and chat about brewing. Let the Seoul Homebrew Club know if you are interested in attending. Bring two or three bottles of your own brew to share.

Free www.seoulhomebrew.com Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 4

TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS SATURDAYS Saturdays at 4 p.m.

National Gugak Center Each month, the National Gugak Center will present a collection of shows that display the beauty and diversity of Korean performing arts.

Concerts will specifically feature dance and/or music, with a total of 50 performances this year. www.visitseoul.net KRW 10,000 Nambu Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to bus No. 4429 and get off at National Gugak Center.

VOLUNTEERING AT ANGEL HOUSE First Saturday of the month, 1:30-7 p.m.

Angel House Angel House is a home for disabled individuals in need of

round-the-clock care. The facility depends on the help of volunteers, and a monthly program is in place to allow people to help out just by giving up an afternoon of their month.

KRW 10,000 for donation (and a meal) Meeting point: Yeonsinnae Station 연신내역 ( (Line 3 or 6), Exit 3

WORDSMITHS Every second Sunday of the month, 6-9 p.m.

Southside Parlor, Yongsan Check out Wordsmiths, where spoken word and live music collide. Wordsmiths is the only event in Seoul that focuses on spoken-word poetry.

Free www.facebook.com/ SouthsideParlor Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2

ITAEWON JAM NIGHT Every Thursday Livewire, Itaewon A weekly live jam session that anyone can get involved in. Sign up on the Facebook page to book a slot for your act.

Free www.facebook.com/ itaewonjamnight Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3

JSA/DMZ COMBINED TOUR Every Tuesday to Friday DMZ, near North Korea This journey takes you closer to North Korea than most people will ever get. On the trip you will visit the JSA security force camp, Peace House, Freedom House, the Military Armistice Commission building, the Bridge of No Return and the site of the ax-murder incident at Panmungak, as well as the Third Infiltration Tunnel, Dorasan Observatory, Dorasan Train Station and Imjingak.

KRW 93,000 www.adventurekorea.com

탐앤탐스 핸들 드링킹 자

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Expat Buzz

Euljiro 1-ga Station 을지로입구역 (Line 2), Exit 1

BULL & BARREL OPEN MIC Thursdays, 9 p.m.

Bull & Barrel, Itaewon The organizers invite the audience to enjoy the musings of “Seoul’s best talent” at the regular event hosted by DJ iDub. Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 1

REGULAR LIFE DRAWING CLASSES Fridays, 7:30-9:30 p.m.

Saturdays, 6-8 p.m.

Jankura Artspace Tips and basic instruction can be provided for anyone in need, but this is mostly an open session for people to practice drawing and painting from the life model. Most nights are nude, but they also have special costumed drawing sessions, which are a lot of fun.

KRW 10,000 T. 010-6227-4244, jankuraseoul. com Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3

ITAEWON TOASTMASTERS Every Sunday Samgakji Want to increase your confidence at speech-giving? Or learn the correct way to toast? Join the Itaewon Toastmasters to practice speaking in public and to listen to the words of others.

Free for first-timers, KRW 2,000 for regular members www.itaewontm.org Samgakji Station 삼각지역 (Line 4 or 6), Exit 10

KOREAN BUZZ WORD

TANGJINJAM 탕진잼 As times get tough, millennials blow off steam through frivolous spending Written by Diana Park

Tangjinjam is a word combining reckless spending, or tangjin, and fun, or jaemi (jaem for short). It refers to Korean millennials’ penchant for frivolous spending on cheap items as a means of soothing stress.

First introduced in 2014 on an online comic, or webtoon, the word spread like wildfire on social media. Young Koreans, who have less spending money because of rising housing prices and the unstable job market, relieve stress by purchasing inexpensive goods. They utilize their low income this way for maximum satisfaction. Young people purchase items like stationery, desserts, beauty items and stuffed animals to find temporary fulfillment in desperate times. Thanks to this trend, character shops, drugstores selling beauty supplies and dollar stores are growing increasingly popular.

Daiso, a leading dollar store chain with over 1,160 stores nationwide, experienced a 20 percent increase in sales over the past six years. People in their 20s make up 30 percent of Daiso’s consumers. In a recent survey by a research group, this age cohort picked Daiso as its favorite brand. There is even a thriving internet community called “Daiso Thief” with over 15,000 members. This diverse group of students and office workers take pictures of their Daiso purchases and share them on social media.

Coin-operated vending machines dispensing capsule toys, which are wildly popular in Japan, are also an increasingly ubiquitous sight. According to the Game Management Committee, the number of these vending machines nationwide increased from 24 in 2015 to 1,500 in 2017. This consumer trend coincides with the rising trend of YOLO (You Only Live Once). Faced with changing demographics and gloomy economic prospects, young people are choosing to spend on themselves now rather than save for an uncertain future. In a recent survey by Lotte, 71.7 percent of Korean millennials said the money they spend on themselves was not wasteful, a sharp contrast with baby boomers, nearly half of whom responded that they were wasting money by spending it on themselves.

‘Hair in its Natural State’

Quno Hair

served as Art Director at London’s renowned Rush Salon and nominated by the Guardian for ‘Best Hairdresser’ EXPAT BUZZ Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm.

Magic Straight & Treatment Highlight &Lowlight...etc English Spoken

Gangnam/ Apgujeong Branch 02-549-0335 www.qunohair.com www.hairandjoy.com

HAIR & JOY

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNIQLO (1F)

coco bruni About Me

NH Bank

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

Magazine

For more info, call Johnny 71

Phone : 02-363-4253 Mobile : 010-5586-0243

SEOUL

CAFÉ TTEURAN Café Tteuran is the first Hanok teahouse in the historic Ikseon-dong area, an increasingly popular neighborhood of old Korean-style homes. It serves medicinal teas made from the best ingredients and excellent red bean porridge and patbingsu made with the finest Korean red beans. Be sure to check out its lovely courtyard garden.

166-76 Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu T. 02-745-7420, @café_innergarden (Instagram)

IMPERIAL PALACE SEOUL HOTEL: URBAN RETREAT Imperial Palace Seoul Hotel presents two summer packages through Aug. 31. The Sizzlin’ Summer Package comes with a one-night stay, a bowl of shaved ice and a 20 percent discount voucher at Café Delmar, a 50 percent discount voucher at the outdoor pool, and a cosmetic travel kit by DMASK as welcome gift. The Poolside Summer Package comes with a one-night stay, outdoor pool tickets for two, grilled sausages and two bottles of French craft cider “Sassy Cidre,” and a floating drink holder (reservation required, limited to 10 groups per day).

The Sizzlin’ Summer package starts from KRW 219,000, and the Poolside Summer package starts from KRW 279,000, excluding taxes and service charges. The Sizzlin’ Summer Package offers early summer promotion of KRW 30,000 discount for guests staying between June 5 and July 13. Information and Reservation: T. 02-3440-8000, www.imperialpalace.co.kr

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NETWORK

SHERATON GRAND INCHEON HOTEL: SUMMER STAYCATION PACKAGE Located only 30 minutes away from Seoul, the Sheraton Grand Incheon Hotel presents its Summer Staycation Package, with which guests can keep themselves comfortable and relaxed without having to deal with heavy traffic or a hectic crowd.

The package is available thru Aug. 31 starting from KRW 188,000, service charge and V.A.T not included.

For more information, call 032-835-1004.

GANGNAM-UC RIVERSIDE (GNUCR): ENGLISH, KOREAN, CHINESE CLASSES Study English in the heart of Gangnam and earn University of California credit and transcripts! Or brush up on your Korean with GNUCR’s Korean classes from Seoul National University. If Chinese is more your thing, GNUCR’s got that, too. Join the more than 20,000 students who have studied at GNUCR since the school’s opening in 2001. www.gnucr.kr | Gangnam-gu Office Station 강남구청역, Exit 1 | info@gnucr.net | Kakao: @gnucr | 02-546-3260

GLOBAL DIASPORA MULTICULTURAL COACHING NETWORK

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: FEAST TO-GO

We provide professional psychotherapy and coaching services to help and support personal growth and happiness. Our counselors and coaches are proficient in more than one language and have earned advanced professional degrees in various mental health fields. Counseling services include individual, couple, family, pre-marital, crisis intervention and group therapy and coaching services include life, business, cultural adaptation and parenting coaching.

Feast Buffet Restaurant is now offering its “Feast To-Go” catering service, with an extensive range of catering items tailored to special occasions. Available for those planning private dining or outdoor gatherings, the food can be either picked up at the restaurant or delivered. “Feast To-Go” is ideally suited for 10 people and choices of cold, hot and dessert items are available.

Appointments can be made by calling 070-40403081 or by e-mailing globaldiasporamn@gmail.com.

Address: 136, Worldcupbuk-ro, Mapo-gu, Shin-An Building, 6th floor Website: www.globaldiaspora.or.kr

Catering boxes are available to pick up at “Feast” Buffet Restaurant and delivery service is also available with additional charges. The price is KRW 198,000 / 10 people (inclusive of tax). Currently, 10% discount is applied as a courtesy of launching.

Seoul Network

Milk Love Latte Campaign Comes to an End Starbucks Korea promotes domestically produced milk, helps local communities

Starbucks Korea has brought its Milk Love Latte campaign to a successful conclusion.

Starbucks hosted the campaign, which aimed to promote the excellence of domestically produced milk and encourage its consumption, from Apr. 24 to Jun. 19.

Every Monday at 1,040 shops around the country, customers who ordered cafe lattes could receive a free size upgrade.

The cafe latte is Starbucks’s second biggest seller. A tall cafe latte, at 355 ml, is also the cafe’s milkiest beverage. Starbucks believes customers consumed an additional 87 tons of milk during the campaign.

Starbucks also put together a fund by collecting KRW 50 from every Milk Love Latte sold. The fund, which amounts to about KRW 50 million, will go to promoting the consumption of domestically produced milk. On Apr. 28, Starbucks donated KRW 25 million worth of powdered milk to the Eastern Social Welfare Society, where it can feed its institutionalized infants for a year. The rest of the fund will go to a campaign to supply milk to vulnerable families and individuals.

On June 1, “World Milk Day 2017,” Starbucks took part in a variety of events,

including a function in Soeul’s Yangcheon Park in which it handed out 1,000 cups of cafe latte made with domestically produced milk. On May 29 and 30, Starbucks delivered roughly 10,000 cups of Starbucks Milk Pudding, made with locally produced milk, to welfare centers in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do, Busan and Gwangju.

Starbucks Coffee Korea CEO Lee Seock-koo expressed hope that the campaign generated interest in fresh, safe, domestically produced milk and contributed to positive change in local communities.