SEOUL (September 2013)

G y e o n g n i d a n A

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H y u n - j u n g

g a n g n a m s t y l e f e s t i va l t u r n i n g y o u r wa r d r o b e a r o u n d

Goings-On Around Town

September 2013

T r av e l

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Culture

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Maps

ISSUE NO. 122

ￌ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

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Contents NO. 122

12 Exploring Seoul

Gyeongnidan 16 Seoul travel bits 18 Gangnam Spotlight

Gangnam Style Festival 2013 20 Travel

p20

Andong 24 Korea travel bits 26

History walks

A Walk through the Varied Faces of Myeong-dong p12

27

Seoul sub→urban

Konkuk University Station

September 2013

28

Seoul stories

A Tale of Two Architects 광고 문의

29

Advertorial

T r a v e l

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C u l t u r e

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New York Wholistic Care

M a p s

No-haggle pricing

30

Dining & nightlife

Chuseok Foods

광고가는 정찰제입니다 To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

33

Talk of the town

A Tale of Two Shoppers 34

Shopping

SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER!

Cool Off Your Summer Wardrobe 36

정기구독 안내

Huge reductions on domestic subscriptions to SEOUL magazine!

• 6 months: KRW 30,000 → KRW 14,000 • 12 months: KRW 60,000 → KRW 25,000 FREE postage for international subscribers

Interview

Artist Kim Hyun-jung 58

Seoul of zen & Oriental medicine

Healing Your Soul and Body

• 38

Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

International subscription rates: •6 months: US $30 •12 months: US $59 To subscribe, call (02) 734-9567 or email sense@seoulselection.com.

For the latest Seoul-related news and events, follow Seoul Selection on Facebook and Twitter! And don’t forget to sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, look up past SEOUL articles, and browse through our on-line bookshop at www.seoulselection.com

Seoul Selection

42

Expat community page 47

Maps & guides QR codes with gray borders directly link to individual Google Maps.

QR codes with blue borders directly link to individual websites.

@seoulselection T r a v e l

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C u l t u r e

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M a p s

About the Cover Angie, vocalist and guitarist from band Wasted Johnny's (https://www.facebook.com/WastedJohnnys) poses in the Gyeongnidan area. (p12) Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designer Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Contributors Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Daisy Larios Max Kim

| Raimund Royer | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter | April Jackson

Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise —­without the written consent of the publishers.

SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul.

For details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.

seTember at a glance

suggested seoul itineraries Day 1

2 days / 1 night Explore Seoul’s lovely Joseon Dynasty Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] .

Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ].

Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest.

Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Party all night at a club in bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ].

Explore the Gyeongnidan District

Up-and-coming dining district is fast becoming Seoul’s trendiest spot. >p12–15

* There are some copies you can read for free.

Where’s

Where to pick up SEOUL for FREE 1. Branches of SEOUL magazine advertisers: Nanta Theater, Korea International School, Shinhan Bank, W Hotel, SOMERSET PALACE, IP&I, Astoria Hotel, Baerlin, Dongguk University International Seon Center, New York Wholistic Care, UBA Breast Clinic, Hair & Joy Hair Salon, Zen Hair Salon, Tartine, Between, Etonne Café, Concierge, Korea House, Dragon Hill Spa, On the Border, Dwight School, Seoul International School, Seoul Foreign School, The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

Where to purchase SEOUL 1. Seoul Selection’s off- and on-line bookshops (www.seoulselection.com) 2. Major bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre, YP Books and Bandi & Luni’s Bookstore 3. The following US military bases: Yongsan, Osan, Camp Humphreys and Camp Casey

2. Tourist Information Centers in Seoul 3. Hotels & serviced residences: Chosun hotel, THE SHILLA SEOUL, JW Marriott Hotel Seoul, Seokyo Hotel, Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts, Park Hyatt, Imperial Palace Hotel, Banyan Tree, Ritzcarlton Seoul, Lotte City Hotel, Grand Intercontinental Hotel Seoul, Gogung Hotel, Best Western Primier Hotel Kukdo, Lexington Hotel, Hotel Riviera, Grand Ambassador Seoul, Ibis Seoul Ambassador hotel, Incheon Airport Hotel, Koreana Hotel, Hotel Sunbee, Prima Hotel, Hotel Sevilla Incheon Airport, Hillside, Marriott Residence, Vabien Seoul, Vabien Suite, Fraser Place Central Seoul, Fraser Suites, Co-op Residence, Seoul Residence, Oak Wood Premier Coex Center, Stanford Hotel, Koryo Hotel, Best Western Gangnam Hotel, Ellui Hotel, Travellers A Hostel, Fox Hotel 4. Major cafés and restaurants: All Starbucks, Café Nescafé branches in Korea, Major branches of Angel-in-us, The Bakers Table, Zelen, Taco Chili Chili, Thunder Burger, Salam Bakery, TG, Tomatillo, Dublin Gangnam, Pattaya, Cup&Bowl, Lazy Sue, The Hungry Dog, Flee Flee, My Thai, Le Saigon, 19st. NEAL’S YARD, Ankara Picnic, Gecko’s Terrace, Gecko’s Garden, Yale Town, Macaroni Market, Berlin, 3 Alley Pub, Petra Palace, Smokey Saloon, Isabelles the Butcher, Jacoby’s Burger, Le Saint-Ex, Suji’s, Buddha’s Belly, The Flying Pan Blue, Standing Coffee, Earl, The Concorde, Mi Madre, Noa, Butter Cup, Moghul, Noxa, La Suite, RES2GO, Indigo, Wang Thai, Mi Casa

Day 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ].

Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1].

Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Take in the Gangnam Style Festival Marathons, shopping, K-pop concerts and more! >p18–19

Day 1

3 days / 2 nights

No two students are alike. And no other school cultivates the development of the whole child in quite the same way Dwight School Seoul does.

Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace [ Map 1 B2].

Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.

Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ].

Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Discover the Charms of Andong

Our world-class faculty maps the learning experience to fit the individual strengths and passions of each student, making the possibilities for growth endless.

Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdamdong [ Map 11 C2].

The “cultural capital of Korea” is even better in September when it hosts the International Mask Dance Festival. >p20–23

Day 2 Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

We also provide students with rigorous academic preparation through the International Baccalaureate curriculum — one of the most challenging pre-university courses of study in the world.

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ] , including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2].

Visit a Regional Festival September is the start of festival season, which means anywhere you go, there’s likely a party going on. >p24–25

Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats.

Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ].

Day 3

Prepare Your Closet for the Fall We help turn your summer wardrobe into your autumn one. >p34–35

What will your child’s “spark of genius” be?

Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3] .

Preschool - Grade 11 admissions@dwight.or.kr +82-2-6920-8600 dwight.or.kr

Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3] .

Celebrate Chuseok The harvest celebration of Chuseok is one of the biggest holidays of the year. An unusual way to celebrate it is at the Chewsock Film Festival, where the best Korean films of the year are shown with English subtitles. >p45

Get With the Mobile Revolution Learn about some useful apps to help you get around Korea. >p45

Dwight School Seoul ignites the “spark of genius” in every child!

*financial assistance available

Exploring Seoul

13

Gyeongnidan

경리단

The Not-So-Forgotten Neighborhood

Once-quiet corner of Itaewon blends 1970s Korea with international charm

Written by Max Kim Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

W

hen asked about the seemingly abrupt appearance of several new, predominantly expat-owned businesses in their quiet corner of Itaewon-dong, veteran Korean store owners in the Gyeongnidan area all expressed the same bemused kind of amazement. Considering the circumstances, their reactions aren’t too surprising. With the exception of the aforementioned newcomers, the area is—to put it bluntly—pretty much dead.

Whatever the reasons, the locale has been undergoing a small renaissance, making a name for itself in the Korean media as a “place with novel and exotic flavors” and “Itaewon’s hidden romance.” This so-called renaissance is still very much in its infancy, and these new venues are few in number, coming together to form an oddly charming haven of 21st-century tastes—bars, ethnic restaurants, and cafés geared towards hip, cosmopolitan crowds—tucked away in the bosom of old Korea.

A Sino-Korean word that translates to “finance corps,” Gyeongnidan is the now-defunct name for the Korean Army’s central accounting organ. With its official denotation out of use, Gyeongnidan is now simply a synecdoche for Gyeongnidan-gil, which stretches from Noksapyeong Station’s Exit 2 to the Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel, and its immediate surroundings. Geographically speaking, Gyeongnidan is still a part of Itaewon-dong, but with a burgeoning cultural identity of its own, the small community demands to be set apart.

A neighborhood transforms

The Booth

In many ways, the Gyeongnidan area is an anachronism that belongs in the 1970s or 1980s, still inhabited by family-run general stores called sanghoe (a dated term for “store”) with stenciled, dichromatic signboards, selling everything from colorful, floral-patterned pants favored by Korean grandmothers to car air refresheners. Almost no corporate franchises have ventured into the area, and compared to many other congested and in-your-face hangout spots in Seoul, Gyeongnidan embodies an understated merriness.

With that said, all the recent activity is beginning to grab the attention of the public, attracting all manner of rave reviews and labels.

Korean blogs are already hyping it up as the next big thing for couples on dates, and a quick Naver search reveals the diligent documentation of amateur foodies who unanimously agree that the area is very “novel” indeed. Locals, too, are sitting up and taking notice.

“Of course I noticed the transformation,” says resident and local business owner Mrs. Eom. “It’s very different here now—I’m noticing a lot more bustle down the street, especially on weekends.” “[Gyeongnidan] used to be kind of a forgotten neighborhood, and now people are reading about it in the news,” says longtime resident (and, coincidentally, SEOUL Magazine editor-in-chief) Robert Koehler.

“It’s brought in a lot of life—it’s very lively now.”

Low-key approach

Old-style market in Gyeongnidan

Even with the increase in to-and-fro, compared to most other meeting spots in Seoul, Gyeongnidan remains relatively quiet, not nearly as crowded as areas like Hongdae or Itaewon. For many of the new business owners, this remoteness and agreeable lack of chaotic street traffic is a point of attraction in itself, and their businesses are run with the same idea in mind.

“We keep a low-key atmosphere, and we don’t do aggressive advertising,” says Burn Lounge and Cigar Bar owner Hal Husrevolgu. “I just wanted somewhere I can enjoy my single malt whisky and Cuban cigar—I opened it for me.”

About a year and a half old, Burn is located on the second floor in a building just past the guarded gates of the finance corps. The interior is furnished like a villain’s lair in the Sherlock Holmes universe, with any surface you might touch covered in either leather or wood. Its trim aesthetic is very inviting, and it’s easy to see why Hal describes it as a sort of speakeasy where “everyone can just come and go, incognito.”

No nosy serving staff, overpriced fruit platters, or garish decorations— just whisky and cigars, and little to disturb the enjoyment of them.

Row of bistros and lounges, Gyeongnidan-gil

Exploring Seoul

13

Gyeongnidan

경리단

The Not-So-Forgotten Neighborhood

Once-quiet corner of Itaewon blends 1970s Korea with international charm

Written by Max Kim Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

W

hen asked about the seemingly abrupt appearance of several new, predominantly expat-owned businesses in their quiet corner of Itaewon-dong, veteran Korean store owners in the Gyeongnidan area all expressed the same bemused kind of amazement. Considering the circumstances, their reactions aren’t too surprising. With the exception of the aforementioned newcomers, the area is—to put it bluntly—pretty much dead.

Whatever the reasons, the locale has been undergoing a small renaissance, making a name for itself in the Korean media as a “place with novel and exotic flavors” and “Itaewon’s hidden romance.” This so-called renaissance is still very much in its infancy, and these new venues are few in number, coming together to form an oddly charming haven of 21st-century tastes—bars, ethnic restaurants, and cafés geared towards hip, cosmopolitan crowds—tucked away in the bosom of old Korea.

A Sino-Korean word that translates to “finance corps,” Gyeongnidan is the now-defunct name for the Korean Army’s central accounting organ. With its official denotation out of use, Gyeongnidan is now simply a synecdoche for Gyeongnidan-gil, which stretches from Noksapyeong Station’s Exit 2 to the Grand Hyatt Seoul Hotel, and its immediate surroundings. Geographically speaking, Gyeongnidan is still a part of Itaewon-dong, but with a burgeoning cultural identity of its own, the small community demands to be set apart.

A neighborhood transforms

The Booth

In many ways, the Gyeongnidan area is an anachronism that belongs in the 1970s or 1980s, still inhabited by family-run general stores called sanghoe (a dated term for “store”) with stenciled, dichromatic signboards, selling everything from colorful, floral-patterned pants favored by Korean grandmothers to car air refresheners. Almost no corporate franchises have ventured into the area, and compared to many other congested and in-your-face hangout spots in Seoul, Gyeongnidan embodies an understated merriness.

With that said, all the recent activity is beginning to grab the attention of the public, attracting all manner of rave reviews and labels.

Korean blogs are already hyping it up as the next big thing for couples on dates, and a quick Naver search reveals the diligent documentation of amateur foodies who unanimously agree that the area is very “novel” indeed. Locals, too, are sitting up and taking notice.

“Of course I noticed the transformation,” says resident and local business owner Mrs. Eom. “It’s very different here now—I’m noticing a lot more bustle down the street, especially on weekends.” “[Gyeongnidan] used to be kind of a forgotten neighborhood, and now people are reading about it in the news,” says longtime resident (and, coincidentally, SEOUL Magazine editor-in-chief) Robert Koehler.

“It’s brought in a lot of life—it’s very lively now.”

Low-key approach

Old-style market in Gyeongnidan

Even with the increase in to-and-fro, compared to most other meeting spots in Seoul, Gyeongnidan remains relatively quiet, not nearly as crowded as areas like Hongdae or Itaewon. For many of the new business owners, this remoteness and agreeable lack of chaotic street traffic is a point of attraction in itself, and their businesses are run with the same idea in mind.

“We keep a low-key atmosphere, and we don’t do aggressive advertising,” says Burn Lounge and Cigar Bar owner Hal Husrevolgu. “I just wanted somewhere I can enjoy my single malt whisky and Cuban cigar—I opened it for me.”

About a year and a half old, Burn is located on the second floor in a building just past the guarded gates of the finance corps. The interior is furnished like a villain’s lair in the Sherlock Holmes universe, with any surface you might touch covered in either leather or wood. Its trim aesthetic is very inviting, and it’s easy to see why Hal describes it as a sort of speakeasy where “everyone can just come and go, incognito.”

No nosy serving staff, overpriced fruit platters, or garish decorations— just whisky and cigars, and little to disturb the enjoyment of them.

Row of bistros and lounges, Gyeongnidan-gil

Dining & nightlife

31

Daily Delights

추석

Chuseok: A Time of Remembrance

Here are my suggestions for a great food day in Seoul.

The Korean harvest festival of Chuseok is one of Korea’s busiest holidays. It is a

of the ancestors they are honoring and use a brass spoon to send a soothing chime

time of remembrance for the ancestors and a celebration of the autumn harvest. At

through the room. If you have a chance to attend a Chuseok ceremony, take it as a

this time of year, you'll see grocery stores filled with ornate gift sets ranging from

great honor. They are not only asking you to come have a meal but also welcoming

beautifully wrapped fruits, top grade beef, fish, wines, and rice cakes. It is a time for

you into their family. During this time, gifts of traditional Chuseok foods for friends

families to arrange food on shiny brassware for the Chuseok ceremony. As families

and family are highly appreciated. Here are some areas for where you can get the

bow before the arranged foods, they pour a little traditional rice wine into the cups

foods and enjoy a Chuseok-style meal of your own.

Songpyeon (in the Nakwon-dong area) 송편

Written and photographed

by Daniel Gray

Breakfast

Cronuts at Dunkin’ Donuts

던킨도너츠

Get the Cronut, dubbed the “New York pie donut,” at Dunkin’ Donuts Korea. The deep-fried pastry that is taking New York by storm has arrived in Korea but under a different name. Apparently, they have been spotted in Gangnam and have been doing well. I’m sure we’ll spot them all over Korea soon.

Lunch

Gangnam area and, I suspect, soon everywhere

Gwanghwamun area

Pad Thai from Kkaollipochana 까올리포차나 Get a down and dirty pad thai from Kkaollipochana. The team from this little Thai bistro went on an arduous journey to the dark and terrible kitchens of Thailand to learn the secrets of curries and noodles, and it shows in the food.

The flavor of their dishes is bold and rustic, just like something you would find on the streets of Chiang Mai. I particularly recommend their green curry and pad thai.

Itaewon area

Dunkin’ Donuts 던킨도너츠

Songpyeon are crescent-moon-shaped rice cakes that are

Kkaollipochana 까올리포차나

www.dunkindonuts.co.kr Hours: 8am–9pm Price: KRW 2,000

often filled with sweetened red bean or honeyed sesame seeds and steamed with fragrant pine needles. They are

[ Map 1 B2]

T. 010-9019-1995 Hours: 6pm–2am (Sat 4pm–2am, Sun 12pm–3pm, 6pm–12am) Price: pad thai is KRW 10,000 [ Map 8 A1]

traditionally either white or green in color because of mugwort, but you can also find them in brilliant pinks, oranges, and black. During the Chuseok season, the many rice cake shops here all open up early and make thousands of these freshly steamed rice cakes. Although some families prefer to make them at home, the rice cakes here are usually more plush due to the finely ground rice powder and highpowered steams used to make them. They also sell elaborate tea snacks (dasik) and cookies (yakgwa). Regardless of the season, these desserts are great gifts and snacks.

Dried Fish (from Hyelimwon) 굴비

Here are some notable rice cake shops in the Nakwon-dong area:

Gulbi (dried corvina fish) is one of the major ceremonial fish used during the Chuseok

Nakwon Tteokjip 낙원떡집

Woori Tteokjip 우리떡집

T. 02-732-5579 Hours: 8am–10pm Price: KRW 3,000 a pack

T. 02-743-1262 Hours: early morning–9pm Price: KRW 3,000 a pack

[ Map 2 D2]

[ Map 2 D3]

Gangnam area Dunkin’ Donuts

Kkaollipochana

Jamsil Baseball Stadium

Plant

holidays and on the anniversary dates of deceased ancestors (such as their birthday, the day of passing). This fragrant fish is usually pan-fried as an offering. The famous area for this fish is Yeonggwang-gun in the province of Jeollanam-do, where ten large dried fish can go for up to KRW 1 million. The area is considered the best place for the fish because they say the combination of wind, sun, and top-quality sea salt makes for the

Dinner

best-quality fish. In some places, like at Hyelimwon, they take the sun-baked fish and then

Fried Chicken and Beer at a Korean Baseball Game 야구장

Dessert

The season is wrapping up and heading into play-offs. This is when the fans go into a frenzy over the players. The great thing is that the food is very different here. You can get dried squid, beer, and rice rolls if you want to do traditional. However, you can also get things like deep-fried hot dogs, fried chicken, french fries, and more.

pack it in barley, because it is supposed to pull out the extra moisture and add a delicate aroma to the fish. The pan-fried fish are served with a copious number of side dishes, and afterwards, you get a warmed rice drink to go along with the fish. If you would like to buy some of the fish for your relatives or friends, they will sell them to you as well.

Amazing Vegan Delights at Plant 플랜트 Made by a team of vegan cooks, savory vegan delights like black bean brownies and purple rain cake as well as lentil bean burgers with cashew cream can be found at Plant. The daily baked delights like chocolate cherry cake and banana pecan pie will have you second-guessing what you know about sweet.

Itaewon area Hyelimwon 해림원 T. 02-555-9961 Hours: 11am–10pm Price: KRW 35,000–40,000

COEX area [ Map 11 D3]

Plant 플랜트

Hanwoo Beef (from Majang-dong Market) 한우

Jamsil Sport Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), 6

Hanyang Univ. area

makes sense to spoil them with the very best-quality beef: Hanwoo. During Chuseok, this market gets flooded with orders for beef sets ranging from beef sirloin, ribs, tenderloin,

Sugar Daddy

bones for soups—almost every part of the cow—to celebrate this holiday. They are not

슈가대디

cheap, but if you give a Hanwoo beef gift set to friends or family, everyone will believe

Gangnam area

you are a king and hopefully invite you to dinner.

During Chuseok, fruit is essential. Giant apples from Daegu and Andong are prized, as are pears from Naju. You can also get beautiful yellow melons (chamoe) from Seongju. During Chuseok, you have to have many of these different fruits on the table, for they add color and

The nicest guys to buy the gift sets from are at:

sweetness. These fruits are prized by the living and the deceased, and only the unblemished best

Dongbu Chuksan 동부축산

belong on the Chuseok table. Also, in order to make all the different Chuseok foods, the best

T. 02-2296-3903 Hours: 11:30am–12pm Gift sets start from KRW 50,000

salts, soy sauces, and jang (Korean fermented pastes) should be used to make all the different dishes—especially since garlic, onions, and chilies should not be used during Chuseok. The gourmet food market SSG has the best selection of artisan sauces and locally grown fruits available. Plus, the beautiful packaging will be sure to impress whoever you buy it for.

SSG Food Market SSG 푸드마켓 T. 1588-1234 Hours: 10:30am–10pm

[ Map 11 C2]

Yongdu Station 용두역 (Line 2), Exit 4 or Majang Station 마장역 (Line 5), Exit 1

[ Map 8 B3]

Quick Bites

If you think about it, if your ancestors didn’t exist, you wouldn’t, either. Therefore, it

Fruits and Artisanal Sauces (from SSG Food Market) 과일 & 장

T. 070-4115-8388 Hours: Tue–Sun, 11am–7pm Price: Desserts start at KRW 3,500

Jamsil Baseball Stadium 잠실야구장 T. 02-2240-8864 Games start at 6pm.

Tickets start at KRW 10,000.

Café Dudart 카페두다트

If you are looking to satisfy your sweet tooth, you should head over to this sweets shop boasting freshly baked cupcakes and cheesecakes and plenty of ice cream sodas and root beer floats to wash them all down. The cakes and desserts are made in-house, like their sumptuous Oreo cheesecake, which has a graham cracker crust and lots of sweet cream cheese topped with chocolate and even more cookies on top. Oh, and the restaurant is owned by local celebrity Sam Hammington, so if you’re lucky you might be able to spot him there.

Itaewon area Sugar Daddy 슈가대디

T. 02-792-6013 Hours: 10am–10pm Price: KRW 4,800 per cupcake [ Map 8 B3]

Dudart is a kitschy café that specializes in Korean breads, coffees, desserts, and sandwiches. All of the coffees are roasted in-house using high-quality beans, and then they'll prepare your coffee by any method: hand drip, espresso machine, dutch drip, etc. The interior has a clean, modern asceticism that is reminiscent of an IKEA home. Their desserts and breads are made by bakers with over 30 years of experience. The breads are quite nice and are very moist and plush on the inside. Their sandwiches range from regular to somewhat bizarre. If you would like yakisoba noodles on a white roll sandwich, then you should visit (although I think I might go for the smoked chicken or salmon). Their chocolate cakes and choux pastries are a nice snack to have with their robust coffees. They have locations throughout Korea, but their location in Hongdae’s Yeonnam-dong is a safe bet.

Hongdae Café Dudart 카페두다트 T. 02-334-3876 Hours: 10am–10pm Price: KRW 1,000– Hongik Univ. Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2, A’REX), Exit 1. Turn right at the intersection and walk 5 minutes. Turn right at the fifth alley, and turn right again at the corner.

Shopping

35

+

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Ready to usher in the fall season but not quite ready to part with your stylish summer attire? Then we’ve got the perfect guide for you! This season, don’t get frustrated worrying over shopping for new gear for the fall. Here are a few tips on how to restyle your summer clothing with items that are already in your closet.

Look 2

Written by April Jackson

Summer item

spaghetti strap ruffled dress Fall item

+

long-sleeved cotton shirt, knit tights

If you’re looking for a comfy, warm, and cute outfit for a weekend of shopping with the girls, then this is the look for you. You probably have a favorite sleeveless or spaghetti strap dress that you’d like to wear despite the current temperature. You can make it fall appropriate by wearing a long-sleeved or three-quarter length top underneath it. Try a dark basic colored shirt to allow the dress and top to look cohesive.

Look 1

Basic top: uniqlo.com

Summer item

sleeveless knee-length dress Fall item

suit jacket

There are great ways to make your summer dresses work appropriate for fall. Add a suit jacket to cover your arms and block the cool breeze. Choose a printed jacket to give your outfit added color and texture.

Accessories

Jacket: zara.com

Get creative with your accessories! A pair of fashion glasses will give your look even more flair. Balance out the outfit with your favorite long chain necklace and a simple pair of pearl stud earrings. forever21.co.kr

Accessories

Shoes

Minimal jewelry is always best for work attire, so a small pair of gold chandelier earrings and a petite gold ring will do the trick. If you don’t already own these items or prefer silver accessories to gold, you can head to Forever 21 for a vast and reasonably priced assortment.

Top the look off with a pair of nude pumps to bring the outfit together.

Closed-toe pumps are ideal for the fall, since in summer they can be too hot and in the winter they don’t provide enough warmth.

forever21.co.kr

Bottoms aldoshoes.com

To add more fall appeal to your attire, wear a pair of tights. Depending on the temperature, you can go with either a sheer pair or a knit pair to keep your legs warm and stylish.

Shoes Tip: If you would like to test your fashion limits try a pair of tattoo tights (tights with designs on them that resemble tattoos).

These tights are sold all over Myeong-dong and Dongdaemun.

Shop inside of Doota to find various styles and designs.

Dongdaemun Station (Lines 1 and 4), Exit 8

Time to bring out the suede boots! A pair of flat combat ankle boots will give the feminine summer dress a sporty look. Have fun and try out other styles of ankle boots. aldoshoes.com

Goings-on around town

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PREVIEWS+

GLOBAL GATHERING KOREA Oct 12 Caribbean Bay, Everland KRW 110,000 www.globalgatheringkorea.co.kr departing from Gangnam Station 강남역 (Line 2, Sinbundang Line)

Bus No. 5002

Global Gathering is an annual dance music festival, serving the purpose of bringing dance music out of the clubs and into traditional outdoor music festivals. Since its inception in the UK in 2001, the event has grown to play host to over a hundred acts.

The Korea gathering will be staged at the amusement park Everland, featuring such protagonist DJs as Madeon, Zombie Nation, Fatboy Slim, and Porter Robinson.

Madeon is an electro house/pop producer from France who gained popularity with his YouTube video.

GWANGJU DESIGN BIENNALE Sep 20–Nov 6 Gwangju Biennale Hall, Gwangju KRW 10,000 www.gwangjubiennale.org/eng/ Take the KTX to Gwangju from Yongsan Station (travel time: 3 hours)

SUWON HWASEONG CULTURAL FESTIVAL

EUROPEAN JAZZ FESTIVAL 2013

Yeonmudae Square @ Hwaseong Fortress, Suwon Sep 27–Oct 1 Suwon Station 수원역 (Line 1), Exit 4 http://shfes-eng.suwon.ne.kr

Sep 6–7 Mapo Art Center KRW 40,000–80,000 Go straight and turn right at the intersection.

Free

T. 031-290-3564

T. 02-941-1150

Daeheung Station 대흥역 (Line 6), Exit 2.

The festival aims to promote the traditional culture and art of Suwon and preserve the spirit of Hwaseong Fortress, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. The filial affection and political innovations of King Jeongjo, who built the fortress in the late 18th century, will also be cherished. Visitors will be treated to a range of performances and reenactments: the king’s royal procession to his father’s grave and the ensuing memorial rite; a nighttime military drill; the 60th birthday party for the king’s mother, Lady Hong; a court service test; and more.

European Jazz Festival 2013 is devoted to showcasing Europe’s latest jazz scene through recitals and collaborative sessions by eight stellar acts from six European countries. The list of the performers includes Espen Eriksen of Norway, Ulf Wakenius of Sweden, Martin Taylor of the UK, and the Pierrik Pedron trio of France. Although jazz originated from America, the genre was popular in Europe from its earliest days. There was also a number of prominent American jazz musicians who migrated and moved their careers to various European capitals.

SEOPYEONJE

BLOCK 15

Sep 13–21 National Theater of Korea KRW 20,000–70,000 T. 02-2280-4114 www.ntok.go.kr Dongguk Univ. Station 동대입구 (Line 3), Exit 2. [ Map 5 B2]

IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Cente KRW 33,000–77,000 T. 02-720-3933 www.sac.or.kr Sep 10, 8pm Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

LET’S ROCK FESTIVAL Sep 14–15

Nanji Hangang Park

KRW 59,000–88,000

www.letsrock.co.kr

World Cup Stadium Station

월드컵경기장역 (Line 6), Exit 1

The 2013 Gwangju Design Biennale will explore cultural habits, shared characteristics, and the coded conventions by which we communicate with one another. Accordingly, the event has been themed “Gusigi, Masigi” (“Anything, Something”), a Jeolla-do colloquialism used when memory fails. The common ground of these themes implies that the matter of “anything” becoming “something” depends on people’s perspectives. Reflecting this, some of the projects will include redesigning basic necessities and will help develop the regional economy by pairing local rice farmers with design companies to rebrand their packaging.

Ready to check out the best of Korean rock? A total of 26 Korean bands and indie acts will explode onto the stage at the Let’s Rock Festival 2013, which will be held at Nanji Hangang Park Sep 14–15. The lineup at this festival includes Roxtamuzil & Live, YB, No Brain, Deli Spice, Nell, Solutions, Fantastic Drugstore, Broken Balentine, and more. Established in 2007, the festival aims to provide local fans and indie bands with an opportunity to expand their musical experience.

The landmark masterpiece film Seopyeonje will once again hit the stage as a changgeuk (Korean traditional opera production), which embraces singing (chang) in a stage drama (geuk). Originally a 1976 novel by Lee Chung-joon, Seopyeonje became the first Korean movie to break the one million viewers mark in 1993. Its story tells of a family of pansori singers who aspire to achieve their vocal perfection. Seopyeonje refers to a soft, melancholic style of the pansori folk song genre, compared to dongpyeonje and jungdoje styles.

English subtitles will be available.

French pianist Pascal Amoyel is widely known for his pioneering work in the development of theatrical concerts, as evidenced by the 2005 work he cowrote, Block 15, performed with cellist Emmanuelle Bertrand. The duo will come to Seoul to present Block 15. The concert production depicts the story of two musicians saved by music during the Second World War. Amoyel is famous for his performances of solo piano music by Liszt, Chopin, and Scriabin.

ENGLISH BOOKING

Dates & venues below are subject to change.

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS Folk Painting–Land of Imagination Horim Art Center Thru Sep 14 Adults: KRW 8,000, Students: KRW 5,000 T. 02-541-3523 www.horimartcenter.org [ Map 9 C1]

Territorial Expansion of Baekje Seoul Baekje Museum Thru Sep 14 Free T. 02-2152-5811 http://baekjemuseum.seoul.go.kr Mongchontoseong Station 몽천토성역 (Line 8), Exit 1 or Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3.

Embroidered Parasol Honoring Officials Charitable Deeds National Folk Museum of Korea Thru Sep 23 Free / T. 02-3704-3114 www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

A Story of Dongnong Family: 27 Years with the Korea Provisional Government

Seoul Museum of History Thru Oct 13 Free / T. 02-724-0274 www.museum.seoul.kr [ Map 1 A3]

Art of Islamic Civilization National Museum of Korea Thru Oct 20 KRW 12,000 T. 02-2077-9000 www.islam2013.com Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이 촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

CLASSICAL MUSIC DITTO Encore Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Aug 31–Sep 1 KRW 30,000–80,000 T. 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

“Musicians” from New York Phil in Korea Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center

Sep 4, 8pm KRW 80,000–220,000 T. 02-522-1790 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Kun-Woo Paik Piano Recital Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Sep 14, 7pm KRW 50,000–130,000 T. 02-599-5743 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

2013 Yuhki Kuramoto Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Sep 21, 5pm KRW 30,000–100,000 T. 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Myung-Whun Chung & Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Sep 24–25, 8pm

KRW 50,000–250,000 T. 02-599-5743 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Hagen Quartet LG Arts Center Sep 27, 8pm KRW 40,000–80,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

BBC Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Oct 8, 8pm KRW 50,000–250,000 T. 1577-5266 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

DANCE Interview with Isang Yun 2 LG Arts Center Sep 25–26, 8pm KRW 30,000–60,000

T. 02-760-0604 www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

Fuerza Bruta Big Top Theater, Jamsil Sport Complex Oct 11–Dec 31 KRW 99,000–220,000 http://fuerzabruta.co.kr Sports Complex Station 종합운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6 or 7

MUSICALS T Avenue Q Charlotte Theater Aug 23–Oct 6 KRW 50,000--130,000 T. 1644-0078 www.charlottetheater.co.kr [ Map 12 ] T Notre Dame De Paris Blue Square Sep 27–Nov 17 VIP: KRW 130,000, R: KRW 110,000, S: KRW 80,000, A: KRW 60,000 T. 02-541-3184 http://bluesquare.kr [ Map 9 B1]

THEATER The 16th Seoul Fringe Festival Hongdae area & Sangam World Cup Stadium area Aug 29–Sep 14 T. 02-325-8150 www.seoulfringefestival.net

Buddhist Play: It was the little darkness inside of a moktak hole.

Daehangno Arts Theater Sep 23–29 KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-2272-2152 http://cafe.naver.com/2013moktak Hyehwa Station 혜화역 (Line 4), Exit 2

Chekhov International Theatre Festival: The Tempest (directed

by Declan Donnellan) LG Arts Center Oct 1–3, 8pm KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

T 2013 Seoul Performing Arts Festival (SPAF) Arko Arts Theater, Daehangno

Arts Theater, Daehangno District Oct 2–26 T. 02-3668-0100 / www.spaf.or.kr

CONCERTS Ron Branton’s Summer Night Jazz—Water Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Aug 20, 8pm / Aug 24, 7pm KRW 25,000–50,000 T. 02-880-0650 http://sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

Secret Garden Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Aug 28, 8pm KRW 33,000–143,000 T. 02-720-3933, http://sejongpac. or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

2013 Gwangju World Music Festival Chonnam National Univ. & Kunsthalle Gwangju Sep 6–7 Free

T. 062-410-3458 www.gjwmf.com It takes three hours from Yongsan Station to Gwangju by KTX.

T Justin Bieber First Concert with AIA Life Realmusic Oct 10, 8pm Gymnastics Arena, Olympic Park KRW 99,000–132,000 T. 02-3141-3488 Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

KOREAN MUSIC Pungnyu Sanbang National Gugak Center Sep 4/11/25, 7:30pm KRW 10,000 / T. 02-580-3300 www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429.

KOREAN THEATER Yeonhui Madang National Gugak Center

Every Saturday, 4pm–7pm Free T. 02-580-3300 www.gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429.

Janchi—The Last Empress’s Feast Seoul Namsan Taditional Theater Sep 4–Dec 29 (11am, closed every Mon–Tue)

ROYAL PALACE EXPERIENCE Moonlight Tour at Changdeokgung Palace Changdeokgung Palace Thru Oct 20 Reservation: palacemoonlight@ gmail.com [ Map 1 D2]

ART EXHIBITIONS

KRW 20,000 T. 02-2261-0501 http://sngad.sejongpac.or.kr Chungmuro Station, Lines 3 & 4, Exits 3 & 4. [ Map 4 D4]

Special Exhibition Memorial for Ven. Sungchul

Andong International Maskdance Festival 2013 Maskdance Park, Hahoe Folk Village, Andong-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do Sep 27–Oct 6

T. 02-2198-5372 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

KRW 3,000–7,000 per show (1-day pass: KRW 30,000) T. 054-841-6398 maskdance.com It takes three hours to get from Seoul to Andong by express bus.

Calligraphy

Seoul Calligraphy Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Aug 30–Sep 15

Power, Where Does the Beauty Lie? Various artists

SOMA Museum of Art Thru Sep 22 KRW 3,000

T. 02-425-1077 www.somamuseum.org Mongchontoseong Station 몽촌토성 역 (Line 8), Exit 2. Inside the Gate of Peace, walk 200m to the right.

Figurative Journal Chung Guyon Archive

Studio Ghibli Layout Design Exhibition in Seoul

Free T. 02-2188-6000 www.mmca.go.kr Seoul Grand Park Station 서울대공원 역 (Line 4), Exit 4. Take the shuttle bus.

Design

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Sep 22 KRW 10,000—15,000 T. 070-4246-3600 www.superseries.kr/4441 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Alphonse Mucha— Art Nouveau and Utopia Modern art

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Sep 22 KRW 12,000 T. 1666-2775 www.mucha2013.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Architecture

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea Thru Sep 22

Secret Museum Special exhibition

Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Thru Sep 22 Adults: KRW 12,000, Youth: KRW 10,000, Children: KRW 8,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.secretmuseum.co.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Gauguin: Voyage into the Myth French post-impressionism

Seoul Museum of Art Thru Sep 29 KRW 13,000 T. 1588-2618 http://gauguin.kr / [ Map 1 B4]

Maps & guides47 LUCK IN A POT FOR SEOUL’S VEGANS

Seoul Vegan Potluck gives vegans and non-vegans alike a chance to socialize. And eat.

Once a month at a different restaurant in Seoul, between 15 and 50 people gather to enjoy dishes that have one thing in common: they are all free of meat and animal products. Adeana Thompson, organizer of the Seoul Vegan Potluck, an event open to herbivores and omnivores alike, says, “I enjoy the opportunity for Westerners and Koreans to share ideas and recipes with each other. I have learned so much through these exchanges, like where to buy certain ingredients and how to prepare unusual dishes.”

For the uninitiated, a potluck is when a group of people join together and each bring a dish to share. “We have a lot of amazing cooks attend our event,” says Thompson.

“But don’t be intimidated, some of the best food we have is really simple and down-to-earth.”

With all the meat-filled Korean dishes, one would imagine it can be difficult to stay vegan as an expat in Seoul. Thompson agrees. “I still have difficulty explaining veganism when I eat at non-vegan restaurants. Most restaurateurs and cooks don’t understand what veganism is and will insist a dish is vegan even if it has meat stock or even Spam in it.”

Luckily, she also thinks things are changing. “Among the foreigner community veganism is definitely becoming more accessible because of the variety of Western options available . . .

I think steps are being taken to make veganism more prevalent.”

The next Seoul Vegan Potluck is on Sep 31 at 1pm at Southside Parlor near Noksapyeong Station. The theme changes monthly—September is all about BBQ and sides, so bring a dish reflecting this.

waltz/tango with a professional instructor.

KRW 50,000 (extra charge for dance instruction class).

T. 02-2222-8647 / [ Map 11 C3]

LOOKING FOR FOREIGN ARTISTS Oct 10, 12pm–7pm Doldam-Gil (Stone Wall Road), Deoksugung Palace The DolYaeGong art market is looking for foreign artists and arts college students who want to sell their products or perform. Application

date: any time. Of course you can also just go and visit the market.

KRW 20,000 for regular participation 21crpm@hanmail.net, http://cafe. daum.net/ideamasters/6tbG/543 [ Map 1 B4]

GANGNAM CANOE CLUB: KAYAK RENTAL & TOUR Thru November, 6am–7pm Ttukseom Resort Gangnam Canoe Club has a variety of services and equipment that enable visitors to experience the joy of kayaking, worry-free.

ACCOMMODATION

Written by Loren Cotter

chris_roh@hotmail.com Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), Exit 2

—————————————– NEWS —————————————–

AUTOMATED FREE BICYCLE RENTAL

Yongsan-gu Office has an automated free bicycle rental facility equipped with 20 bikes in the 1st basement area of the building near the Yongsan Community Health Clinic entrance.

HOSTEL KOREA 11TH: CHANGDEOKGUNG

SEOUL’S DISASTER APP Seoul has launched an alert app, 서울안전지키미 (Korean only) to provide necessary information about disasters occurring in Seoul and beyond. This alert app enables users to receive real-time information on all types of natural disasters and major car accidents while on the move. A complete tracking of the incidents is available with audio and video updates and interactive maps. Also, the Web application allows users to report, verify, and monitor a wide range of disaster and emergency situations. Safety tips, including shelter information, are also provided.

MAMONDE FLAGSHIP STORE OPENS IN MYEONG-DONG Korea’s top cosmetics maker AMOREPACIFIC Corporation recently opened its first flagship store of Mamonde in Myeong-dong, one of the busiest shopping districts of Seoul. Meaning “my worl” in French, Mamonde is one of the cosmetic giant’s key brands which also include Laneige, Innisfree and Sulwhasoo. The company is currently operating more than 1,800 and 4,800 Mamonde shops, respectively in Korea and China. In addition, the first Mamonde store in Thailand is scheduled to open during next month. The new Seoul store, which opened on July 12, is aimed to reposition the 22-year-old brand as fresh and appealing, from the viewpoints of both Korean and foreign customers. Situated in the bustling shopping district of Myeong-dong, central Seoul, the new flagship store is themed to look like a flower garden, as flowers are key ingredients of Mamonde’s cosmetic products. T. 02-318-3695.

These bikes can be rented for free by any Yongsan-gu residents.

T. 02-2199-7750 http://global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon

USEFUL WEBSITES FOR EXPATS

-This month’s useful websites include the aforementioned Alien’s Day Out blog — a must-read for any vegans and vegetarians living in Korea: http://aliensdayout.com -If you have a friend moving to Korea, recommend them the Arrival Store.

They organize much-needed products such as cellphones and bedding for delivery on arrival to Korea, making the transition to life in a different country much smoother. www.thearrivalstore.com -Finally, iherb is another excellent online source, this time for its variety of products — from natural shampoos to hard-to-find herbs and spices — and quick delivery: www.iherb.com

REWARD FOR REPORTING

KONGLISH SIGNS

If you spot a tourism sign with bad English at tourist areas, please report it to the translation service team of Korea Tourism Organization and enter to win a gift certificate worth KRW 30,000. www.facebook.com/konglish0

Do you have any events or other info for our Bulletin Board? If so, please send details to book@ seoulselection.com

Hostel Korea 11th: Changdeokgung is a guesthouse located in front of Changdeokgung Palace. Tourist attractions and shopping districts within walking distance include Gyeongbokgung Palace, Jongmyo Royal Shrine, Insa-dong, and Dongdaemun. The guesthouse has a meeting/conference room and a rooftop terrace good for small parties. All guestrooms provide free wireless Internet access, air conditioning, communal kitchens, and laundry areas. Dormitory spaces cost KRW 25,000, while a double/twin room is priced at KRW 99,000 per night. A family room for four costs KRW 149,000. All rates include a light breakfast and coffee.

T. 070-4705-1900, www.cdg.hostelkorea.com [ Map 1 D2]

SHOPPING MONDAY EDITION Located in Hannam-dong, jewelry atelier Monday Edition aims to deliver a story or message through luxury jewelry lines. The jewelry brand doesn’t seem to limit its creativity to traditional jewelry— it uses various materials to express its themes in different ways.

Its first theme was Pearl and Helventica, which engraved alphabet initials in the Helvetica font on pearls. The You in Wonderland theme gave birth to motifs like flowers, keys, cards, and clocks.

Monday Edition is loved by big-name designers and many Korean celebrities who lead local fashion trends.

September

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’S PICK OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

T. 070-4412-5922, http://monday-edition.com [ Map 9 A2] 6

Popular blogger Mipa Lee from Alien’s Day Out has recently opened a new vegan eatery in Itaewon with fellow baker Yona. As well as meat-free meals, cakes, and drinks, the two will be offering vegan and vegetarian cooking classes at the cafe. The facility is open from 11am–7pm, Tuesday to Sunday. Inquire at http://www.facebook.com/STUDIOPLANT for more information.

EAT YOUR WAY AROUND ITAEWON WITH THE NEW ‘FOODIE CRAWL’ Join the brand-new foodie crawl every Saturday to munch your way around Itaewon and its surrounding areas. The group will visit four restaurants every week from 3pm to taste a portion of the menu, all with a different theme. The first Saturday explores Haebangchon, the second Gyeongnidan, the third will have an “Around the World” theme (Turkish, Moroccan, Bulgarian & Thai) and the final week is “Itaewon Classics.”Payment can be made via bank deposit (KRW 36,000) or PayPal (USD$32). Call 02-3447-1611 for more information.

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FOOD VEGAN CAFE AND COOKING STUDIO NOW OPEN

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Taking over the courtyard of the Somerset Palace serviced apartments across from Gyeongbokgung Palace, Barlin has the feel of an authentic, upscale German restaurant. Capable of serving up to 200 patrons at a time, the restaurant features a nice and simple interior with large black-and-white photographs of Brandenburg Gate and Oberbaum Bridge. The wide windows make the venue bright, and there is also a beer garden. The Germanthemed menu provides some nice choices. Some good German beers are on tap. The schnitzels and spaetzle are just like you’d find in Germany.

T. 02-722-5622, www.baerlin.co.kr [ Map 1 C2]

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Gwanghwamun Area Seoul’s old downtown

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Insa-dong A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

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Whether you’re a newcomer to Seoul, long-time expat or Korean resident,

SIWA has something for you!

Founded in 1952, the Seoul International Women’s Association is Seoul’s largest and oldest international women’s group. Bringing together women from over 50 countries, SIWA provides opportunitites for friendship, cultural exchange, personal growth and community service.

Come join the fun!

Find out more at www.siwapage.com

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Bärlin

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Paintings of Buddhist guardian deities have been assembled for a special exhibition titled Guardian Deities—The Protector of Buddhism at the National Museum of Korea. Dharmapalas are wrathful bodhisattvas who protect Buddhists and the Dharma.

With their terrifying appearance, meant to frighten forces of evil, Dharmapalas are the manifestation of the Bodhisattva Vajrapani— protector deity and the oldest and most powerful of the Mahayana pantheon. Though originating from the folk religions and legends of ancient India, these deities have been widely adopted in the Buddhist belief. The show runs through Sep 8.

T. 02-2077-9000, www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

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Myeong-dong

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Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

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Hangangjin Quickly turning itself into the trendiest spot in town

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Yeouido The Manhattan of Seoul

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Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s most hippest college town areas

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

ART/CULTURE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

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Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

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Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond