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SEOULLO 7017

ISSN: 1599-9963

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JUNE 2017

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SEOUL AT NIGHT

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WEST COAST ISSUE NO. 167

Poppy Field at Haneul Park 하늘공원 양귀비꽃밭에서

As it was a little post-peak, the poppies were a bit sparse, but nothing felt lacking. Though the flowers may have been fewer, the sight of the two people walking through the field in the beautiful afternoon sunlight made for a captivating scene. During my photo excursions, I enjoy lovely scenery, but I feel the scenery is even more beautiful when there are people in it.

Park Keunwoo describes himself as an “ordinary office worker who loves to travel and take photos.” See more of his work at http://soso3620.blog.me.

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The Lens

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EDITOR’S NOTE Publisher Kim Hyunggeun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Editor Diana Park Producer/Coordinator Park Sinwon Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Cynthia Fernández Designer Jeong Hyo-ju Advertising & Sales Ha Gyungmin About the Cover Model Jeong Hye Ji and Lee Dong Hyeok at Seoullo 7017 Photographed by Dylan Goldby Address 2nd fl., 43 Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 03061, Korea / Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 / E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com / Website magazine.seoulselection.com / Registration No. 서울 라 09431 / Copyright by Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without the written consent of the publishers.

Just a month after the opening of the Lotte World Tower, Seoul welcomes the completion of yet another architectural landmark, Seoullo 7017. The disused elevated highway-turned-public park is Seoul’s effort to create a “revitalized and people-friendly city” in a way that respects the past while looking squarely at the future. Seoullo 7017’s impact on the surrounding neighborhoods, however, remains to be seen. In this issue of SEOUL, we’ll take a look at the project, studying its motivations and aims and examining the surrounding controversy.

Also in this issue of SEOUL, we’ll visit some of the best spots in downtown Seoul to take in the city’s nightscape, take a motorcycle trek along Korea’s western coast, talk with artist Todd Selby and curator Ahn Ju-hui, savor some of Seoul’s best burgers and more. We also launch a new section, Seoul Stories, in which we experience Seoul through the eyes of its inhabitants. It’s a slice of everyday life in the city ­­— we hope you enjoy it.

Contents

JUNE 2017

ISSUE NO. 167

Accommodation

The Lens

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Poppy Field at Haneul Park

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Dining

Amazing Brewery Burgers 50

Special Feature

Seoullo 7017

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Seoul Nightscapes

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Nightlife

Exploring Seoul

정기구독 안내

Seochon Guesthouse Vine

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Post-Hipster Hangouts 52 Yann Cavaille of Pute Deluxe

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Travel

Motorcycle Trek Along the West Coast 28

Shopping

Lingerie Designer Areum Park

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Interview

Artist Todd Selby and Curator Ahn Ju-Hui 36

Arts & Entertainment

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Previews Seoul Stories

Concerts, Festivals and More

Seoul Through the Eyes of Its People 42

Expat Buzz

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magazine.seoulselection.com

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Real Learning for a Real Future Delivering the British National Curriculum for boys and girls through inquiry based learning.

Summer Camp 2017 Open for Non-EHPS Students 10th July ~ 28th July (3 Weeks), Age 2 to 13 Register Now: enquiries@etonhouseprep.com 28 Hannam-daero 20-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea Phone: 02-749-8011 http://etonhousekorea.com/

서울로 7017

Not Another High Line Seoullo 7017, an overpass-turned-walking path, illustrates the complexities of Seoul’s urban landscape Written by Marina Brenden

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Exploring Seoul

Š Seoul Metropolitan Government

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9 Seoullo 7017 gives city residents a park in the heart of the city.

© Dylan Goldby

The comparisons are ubiquitous: Jeju is like Hawaii, pajeon is like pizza, Chuseok is like Thanksgiving.

Abundant and familiar to anyone who has spent time in Korea, these analogies flatten out the nuances of reality, drain them of their unique character and rob them of their distinctive character. Likewise, as Seoul revels in the global attention of the newly reopened Seoul Station overpass, a project also known as Seoullo 7017, the comparisons to New York’s High Line are pervasive. Nine out of ten articles predictably compare the project to the High Line, an archetype that has siblings in Chicago, Atlanta and even Paris. But despite the obvious similarities, the project is not Asia’s High Line. Instead, it is a path that tells a living history, illustrating the complexities of Seoul’s urban landscape: a city eager to pursue transformation, but quick to dismiss uncomfortable realities.

Seoullo 7017 — a name which comes from the construction date of the original structure (1970) and the year it reopened (2017) — is the redesign of a 1.7 kilometer section of flyover near Seoul Station.

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With ambitious aims to revitalize the surrounding neighborhoods, preserve historic heritage and bring business to local markets, the overpass reopened with great fanfare on May 20, 2017. The elevated road tells the story of Korea’s past, mainly that of the industrial boom which is credited with pulling Korea out of poverty and landing the country a place among global economic giants. It symbolized the growing wealth of the country, and of the capital in particular, as the road led from Seoul to Korea’s outlying provinces. However, safety of the road became an increasing concern and in 2006, the flyover failed a safety assessment. It was clear that something needed to be done with the structure.

Until early 2014, the resounding consensus was to demolish it. However, in the spring of that year, the city suggested the possibility of renewal, and after extensive architectural, design, engineering and even community consultations, they launched the renewal project. The redesign of Seoul Station Overpass was a decision to not only ensure the security of the thousands of people who passed through the area daily, but also to connect the city

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© Seoul Museum of History When it was completed in 1970, the overpass was a symbol of development.

© Yonhap News

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11 The repurposed overpass reflects the city’s prioritization of pedestrian over the automobile.

© Yonhap News

12 Seoulites enjoy the charms of Seoullo 7017.

Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon hailed the success of the project, saying that Seoullo 7017 is “reviving citizens and neighborhoods, reviving the economy, representing the new model of Seoul urban regeneration.” While this may ring true for the new store and restaurant owners that have benefited from the path, there are many who have suffered equally.

in a new way, to prioritize mobility over traffic and to bring life to an area so commonly associated with cement and cars. The decision was also a significant shift from a focus on productivity and efficiency to one of community and open space.

Seoul Mayor Park Won-soon hailed the success of the project, saying that Seoullo 7017 is “reviving citizens and neighborhoods, reviving the economy, representing the new model of Seoul urban regeneration.” While this may ring true for the new store and restaurant owners that have benefited from the path, there are many who have suffered equally. In his recent Korea Exposé piece, Ben Jackson, a Seoul-based journalist, noted the toll that the project has taken on local communities including rising rents, negative impacts on local businesses and even pollution from redirected traffic. Communities on both sides of the overpass have traditionally relied on each other for work, with sewing shops in Mallidong to the west supporting the work of vendors in Namdameun Market to the east. Additionally, shop owners and residents that live north of the overpass near Yeomcheongyo Bridge, have been the unfortunate recipient of redirected traffic. Jackson said that “residents strongly feel that it was wrong of Seoul City to close the overpass without providing alternative routes.”

Despite Seoullo 7017 being the most notable and highly publicized project in the area, the neighborhood surrounding Seoul Station is experiencing wide sweeping changes in general, due in large part to revitalization efforts by both the local and national government.

In 2007, the old Seoul Station building — which had been designated as a historical site in 1981 and lost its functionality when the KTX station was built — began restoration under the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. It reopened in 2011 as a cultural space housing a coffee shop, exhibitions, restaurants and a barber shop. Commercial buildings, stores and restaurants have sprouted up in the neighborhoods surrounding the

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station, bringing transnational chain stores to a place once known for its vibrant local community and mom and pop storefronts.

Seventy-five bus lines and nearly 400,000 people pass through the Seoul Station area every day. But it is the local residents and business owners who are most affected by the upcoming changes. Many have disapproved of the project, protesting the impact of gentrification, arguing that they would lose their businesses and criticizing the project for putting money into an urban eyesore while covering a problem with a nice exterior.

Green and concrete Dutch architect and urban planner, Winny Mass of MVRDV Architects, won the 2015 design competition of the overpass project through his “Seoul Arboretum” design. According to MVRDV, “Many viaducts and pedestrian overpasses in Asian cities are purely functional elements, but due to the scale of the Seoul Station Overpass which was built for vehicle traffic, an opportunity exists to create a unique public space in the heart of Seoul.” One of Mass’ aims was to make the space as green as possible, with Korean plants arranged by their order in the Korean alphabet and a vision for an urban nursery that grows plants for the city. Mass also considered one of Seoul’s most challenging urban dilemmas in his design: pollution. The overpasses’ location, 17 meters above another road, is even more prone to pollution as well as noise from traffic. In order to minimize these frustrating aspects of urban life, the architect added design and architectural elements to the sides of the overpass which reduce the amount of pollution that rises from the road and diminish the clamorous sounds of cars and busses.

However, since its opening, the overpass has been criticized for its excessive concrete and inability to fulfill its hyped-up promise of green space. Large concrete planters crowd the concrete path which lead to concrete

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© Yonhap News

© Yonhap News Seoullo 7017 may provide insight for other redevelopment projects in the city.

© Yonhap News Postcards promote Seollo 7017 and nearby historical sites.

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Special Feature

As part of the project, 17 pedestrian walkways have also been built that lead to iconic locations around the city. But will the path actually encourage more pedestrians and turn Seoul into a walking city?

stairs and sidewalks. Visitors can be overwhelmed by the crowds, heat and lack of natural space. Shaded umbrellalike structures have been included in the design, and there are some small fountains, but it remains to be seen whether the 24,000 plants will grow large enough to truly create an urban garden.

A walking city?

Seoullo 7017 feature stores, restaurants, a street stage, and exhibitions, welcoming the public as a destination to spend their time. However, according to Yoon Yul Gyu from the Regeneration Planning Division of the Seoul Metropolitan Government, “This elevated road is a path for pedestrians, so the overall concept is more of a path than a park.”

As part of the project, 17 pedestrian walkways have also been built that lead to iconic locations around the city including Namsan and Myeongdong. But will the path actually encourage more pedestrians and turn Seoul into a walking city? Ben Jackson commented on the purpose of the project, noting that rather than a giant infrastructure project, “small adjustments or a better, more widespread urban walking scheme” may have fulfilled the goal of encouraging more pedestrians.

Nonetheless, the enormous feat of the project is undeniable. Nikola Medimorec, mobility expert and coauthor of Kojects, a website dedicated to urban development and transport in Korea, commented that despite criticisms, “any project that turns traffic lanes into a public green space is a success.” The USD 52 million investment (40 percent of which went to earthquake-proofing the structure) is expected to become both a major tourist attraction and road for everyday use. “Seoullo 7017 adds another must-see attraction for visitors,” Medimorec said. “As many tourists are from Asian countries that are still in the phase of growing motorization, hopefully they will take the idea of public green spaces back home and demand high-quality walking environments in their cities.”

Crowds mark the opening of Seoullo 7017.

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© Robert Koehler Seoullo 7017 adds to Seoul’s night scenery.

Urban regeneration across Seoul The Seoul Station revitalization is not the only project of its kind in the city. Particularly in the last ten years, the Seoul Metropolitan Government (SMG) has prioritized efforts to renew historical areas, invest in revitalization projects, build greener and more open spaces, and create a more connected city. In 2015, SMG announced 27 areas where it would invest revitalization efforts, including Mapo, Seocheon, Haebangchon and Namsan.

The stated guiding philosophy of these initiatives is to put humans at the center of the city and to locally customize approaches to urban planning while maintaining existing traditions. “Urban regeneration … is a reinterpretation of already existing history, culture and human resources” said Jin Hee-sun, Director of the Urban Regeneration Office in Seoul. Yongsan Park, which will eventually take the place of the current United States military base near Neoksapyeong and Ichon stations, has been conceived as a mega park of over 243 hectares.

Nakwon Shopping Center, part of the first generation of mixed use buildings in Seoul and known for its music and instrument stores, will also undergo a renewal. The city has made efforts to combat the controversy and risks of

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such projects through rent control policies, city-purchased buildings and community development initiatives.

But there is no sign that rising rents and increasing disposable income will stop. The forces of gentrification may be difficult to combat, risking the loss of unique communities and their history.

A city for people In the 1970s and 80s in Seoul, industrialization, efficiency and uniformity was the strategy of Korean development, leading to the giant apartment complexes and mass infrastructure that are iconic of Seoul’s skyline today.

But a shift in the city’s approach to urban development has begun: one that values rebirth over demolition and tailored solutions over standardized strategies. However, the greatest challenge still remains: ensuring that the people of the city remain at the center. The question that only history will tell is whether the path of redevelopment will exclude the citizens who have made Seoul what it is today. But if one thing is certain, it is that Seoul is constantly changing, a reality that is symbolized in the giant overpass turned park that is Seoullo 7017 — not just another High Line.

Special Feature

© Robert Koehler

VISITING SEOULLO 7017 Written by Robert Koehler Fancy a stroll? No matter what you think of Seoullo 7017 as an act of public policy, the city’s newest landmark does offer a fresh and rather pleasant space in which to stretch your legs. Though the park is worth a visit on its own merits, the pedestrian overpass also provides an opportunity to explore some interesting and under-appreciated neighborhoods. Here are some tips to get you started.

Public art Designed by Rotterdam-based architecture house MVRDV, Seoullo 7017 is itself one giant piece of public art.

At its western entrance is Malli-dong Plaza with its “Yuseul: Malli-dong Reflecting Seoul,” a round sunken space covered with super-reflective stainless steel louvers. With 2,800 steps, it looks like an amphitheater, as which it sometimes functions.

Another piece of public art is environmental artist Hwang Ji-hae’s “Shoes Tree.” The work, which has been likened to a “waterfall of shoes,” is made of over 30,000 worn-out shoes. Flower seeds have been planted in each shoe. The piece, a tribute to the old handmade shoe shops atop the nearby Yeomcheongyo Bridge, has already generated controversy, with some critics deriding it as an eyesore. SEOUL, on the other hand, will leave the art criticism to you, the dear reader.

Namdaemun Market As one of Korea’s most popular tourist destinations, Namdaemun Market didn’t really need another reason to visit. That said, Seoullo 7017 offers an excuse to get re-acquainted with the city’s largest traditional market. This writer is particularly keen on two alleys: one lined with restaurants serving braised scabbard fish, or galchi jorim, and the other with shops serving homemade noodles, or kalguksu.

If you’re looking for something really oldschool, Eunho Siktang (T. 02-753-3263) has been serving oxtail soup, or kkori gomtang,

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for over eight decades.

Yeomcheongyo Handmade Shoe Street Passing over the train tracks leading into Seoul Station, the Yeomcheongyo Bridge is home to a row of old handmade shoe shops, some of which go back to the time of the Korean War. The alley’s once thriving artisans continue to produce high-quality footwear in the face of intense competition from cheaper imports from China and elsewhere. While visiting, drop into Café Moon (T. 02-393-3624). The delightfully vintage coffeeshop is the very definition of a hidden gem.

Culture Station Seoul 284 One of Seoul’s grandest pieces of colonial architecture, Culture Station Seoul 284, a.k.a. old Seoul Station, was completed in 1925. The imposing structure, capped by a beautiful Byzantine dome, served as Seoul’s main train station until 2004. It’s now an art museum and cultural space. It is hosting “The Clock of the Time Traveler,” a series of screenings of films related to time and time travel. Among the films being shown are the “Back to the Future” trilogy, “Midnight in Paris,”“Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind,”“Groundhog Day” and “Interstellar.”

This writer would be amiss if he didn’t mention that two of his favorite films, “Blade Runner” and the anime version of “Ghost in the Shell,” are on the program, too.

Church, Seoul’s oldest surviving Catholic church is still better known by its former name, Yakhyeon Catholic Church. The picturesque Gothic and Romanesque church, completed in 1892, sits atop a wooded hill overlooking the Namdaemun area. The church, which was restored following a 1998 fire, and its surroundings offer a tranquil refuge from the city below.

Not far from the church is VERY KITCHEN (T. 02-312-0205). Run by star designer Joon Oh and housed in a century-old stone building, the trendy “kitchen lab” prepares dishes based on street foods from around the world.

Malli-dong Malli-dong is a gritty, working class neighborhood to the west of Seoul Station.

Low-rise homes and apartments climb the hills; roads run through the passes below.

Urban redevelopment and gentrification may reshape the district in the years ahead. The Malli Market is a good place to experience the neighborhood’s vibe.

Hidden in one of the market’s alleyways is Seongwoo Barbershop, a fascinating piece of the city’s history. Founded in 1927, the shop has been cutting hair the oldfashioned way for three generations. The place looks on the verge of collapsing, with broken windows held together by tape.

The vintage charm, however, draws its loyal clientele, which includes politicians and business leaders.

Yakhyeon Catholic Church Officially named Jungnim-dong Catholic

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서울의 밤

City at Night Seoul has plenty of places to enjoy the nighttime cityscape Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

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Seen from the “photo island” of Mt. Namsan, downtown Seoul is a forest of concrete, steel and light.

Exploring Seoul

Cities are creatures of the night.

No matter how beautiful a city may be during normal working hours, a skyline comes alive only after the sun dips below the horizon. Every city has its places to take in the nightscape. Hong Kong has Victoria Peak, New York has Rockefeller Center.

Surrounded by mountains, Seoul is blessed with an abundance of excellent overlooks to take in the city’s inspiring nighttime cityscape. We introduce four vantage points located in the heart of the city.

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When it is lit up at night, historical Gyeongbokgung Palace is one of Seoul’s most beautiful sights.

National Museum of Korean Contemporary History: eye over Gyeongbokgung The National Museum of Korean Contemporary History is located in the former Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism building in Gwanghwamun, just across from the landmark Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Opened in 2012, the museum’s exhibits shed light on Korea’s dramatic and sometimes tragic modern history, from the opening of the country at the end of the 19th century to the prosperity of the present day, with pride of place given to the Korean War and the nation’s post-war economic development and democratization.

In addition to its permanent exhibits, the museum also hosts regular special exhibits, lectures and other educational events.

In addition to its role as a repository of modern

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Korean history, the museum also functions as an observatory over the Gwanghwamun area in general and historical Gyeongbokgung Palace in particular.

Located on the eighth floor, the museum’s roof garden is usually open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, however, it is open until 9 p.m., allowing visitors to take in the old downtown area’s inspiring nighttime scenery.

The best time to visit National Museum of Korean Contemporary History’s roof garden is when Gyeongbokgung Palace is lit up at night.

Gyeongbokgung and Changgyeonggung palaces host regular “moonlight walking tours” during the spring, summer and autumn months. These special events, which usually last a week or two at a time, let visitors experience the charms of Seoul’s old royal residences

Exploring Seoul

under the light of the moon. It’s an opportunity that shouldn’t be missed.

For photographers, the moonlight tours offer an opportunity to capture the nocturnal beauty of the palace, one of the city’s most iconic sites. As the sun sets over Mt. Inwangsan and the sky turns violet, the wood halls and stone walls of Gyeongbokgung come alive in the warmth of the spotlights. Traffic races in front of Gwanghwamun Gate, the historical entrance to the palace, the old portal’s eaves glowing green, gold and red. In the distance, the outlines of Mt. Bugaksan and Mt. Inwangsan compliment the curved roofs of the palace’s grand halls below.

If you’re photographing Gyeongbokgung at night from the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History, bring both a wide-angle lens — the palace

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complex is quite expansive — and something with a bit of zoom to capture the details. During periods when the palace is open at night, the museum’s rooftop is popular with local photographers, so arrive early if you’d like to place your tripod in a prime spot.

Walk 250 meters from Gwanghwamun Station (Line 5), Exit 2. The museum is right next to the U.S. embassy.

T. 02-3703-9200 www.much.go.kr

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Seen from the south side of Mt. Namsan, low-rise Haebangchon and the high-rise city beyond present a sharp contrast.

22 N Seoul Tower is one of the city’s most iconic structures.

Exploring Seoul

The sun sets over Seoul.

Mt. Namsan: one mountain, many views While many spots in Seoul offer dramatic night views over the city, nowhere offers as many options as Mt. Namsan.

Standing 262 meters in the heart of the city, Mt. Namsan once marked the southern limits of Korea’s old royal capital in the days of the Joseon Dynasty. Today, it is one of Seoul’s most widely recognized scenic spots and one of its most popular tourist destinations. According to a 2015 report by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the mountain was the fourth most visited place in the city by foreign tourists, behind Myeong-dong, Dongdaemun Market and the royal palaces.

Standing in the middle of the metropolis, Mt. Namsan offers captivating views in virtually all directions. Dropping KRW 10,000 for a ticket, many visitors head straight for the indoor observatory deck of the landmark N Seoul Tower. To be sure, the views are jaw-dropping, weather cooperating, but a sunset seen through glass is not the same as one seen under the open sky. This is where Namsan’s outdoor observation decks shine.

Throughout the mountain are several wooden observation decks, called “photo islands,” which offer spectacular, sweeping vistas over the city. One of the best ones is located a short walk below the Namsan cable car’s upper terminus. Overlooking Myeong-dong, the deck provides views over downtown’s urban forest, its skyscrapers bathed in fluorescent and LED light.

While overgrown trees block the view a bit, what you can see between the trees is more than enough.

On the south side of Mt. Namsan, on the road connecting N Seoul Tower and the National Theater

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of Korea, are two wooden observation decks. The one closer to N Seoul Tower is, by far, the better of the two. From here, you can enjoy panoramic vistas over Yongsan, the Hangang River and Yeouido. On a clear day, you can see as far as World Cup Stadium. It’s also a good place to photograph N Seoul Tower itself.

At night, the orange lights of Haebangchon, an old, low-rise hilltop neighborhood just below the mountain, provide a surreal contrast with the yellows and greens of the skyscrapers beyond. The other observation deck, closer to the National Theater of Korea, looks out over Hannam-dong towards Gangnam.

You can enjoy yet another pleasant nighttime view at Baekbeom Plaza, near Namsan Library and the An Jung-geun Memorial Hall. A stretch of Seoul’s old city wall snakes its way down the mountain from the plaza to Sungnyemun and Namdaemun Market. Lit up at night, the historical wall contrasts sharply with the futuristic skyscrapers beyond, a microcosm of Seoul’s defining tension between old and new.

The lower terminus of Mt. Namsan’s cable car is a 10-minute walk from Myeong-dong Station (Line 4), Exit 3 Cable car: KRW 6,000 one-way. KRW 8,500 round-trip. T. 02-753-2403 Buses to N Seoul Tower depart from in front of the Daehan Cinema, near Chungmuro Station (Lines 3, 4), Exit 2 or Dongguk University Station (Line 3), Exit 6.

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The lights of Seoul looks like something out of sci-fi film.

Mt. Ansan: Seoul’s best cityscape?

With its unobstructed views of downtown, Mt. Namsan, Bukhansan National Park, the Hangang River and the city beyond, the peak of Seodaemun’s Mt. Ansan is arguably the best vantage point in Seoul. It may also be one of the least known. While within easy walking distance of Yonsei University and Seodaemun Prison History Museum, Mt. Ansan is not as accessible as the other locations mentioned here.

Getting to the vantage point requires a hike to the top of the 300-meter-high mountain. The 30-minute walk along mostly gentle, well-maintained trails won’t trigger traumatic memories of scaling Annapurna, but it’s not the simple bus, taxi or cable car ride needed to reach the other viewpoints in this article, either.

The peak of Mt. Ansan is crowned by an old beacon fire station, or bonghwadae. The Joseon Dynasty maintained a national system of beacon fire stations to warn the capital of impending threats. While Mt. Ansan’s beacon fire station, a reconstruction, no longer functions,

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it does function as an excellent observatory. For the photographically minded, the stone station also provides a nice, stable platform on which to put your tripod.

Begin your hike in the late afternoon, when there is still plenty of light to illuminate the path. When you reach the beacon fire station, just sit back with a thermos of coffee and wait for the show to begin. As the sky turns violet to blue to eventually black, the city below awakens, transforming into an ocean of artificial light. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Jamsil, the landmark Lotte World Tower rising out of the distance like a rocket on its launch pad. On hazy days, the lights diffuse, bathing the city in a ghostly fog of fluorescent and LED luminescence.

With its sweeping, 180-degree views of Seoul, Mt. Ansan is a good spot to take stunning panoramic photos of the city. You’ll want to bring a lens that lets you zoom into the city, especially the area around Mt. Namsan.

Besides nightscapes, Mt. Ansan is also one of Seoul’s best sunrise spots in winter, when the sun rises directly

Exploring Seoul

over downtown Seoul.

While lights illuminate much of the path to the peak, the section at the very top is dark, so be sure to bring a flashlight for the hike down the mountain. During the day, the mountain is a popular park for local residents and students from the nearby universities. A network of easy hiking paths, the Ansan Jarak-gil, rings the mountain’s waist. When the weather is good, these paths — really a system of wooden decks — are an oasis of green in the heart of the concrete jungle. You’ll get some good views, too.

Mt. Ansan’s access points include Seodaemun Prison History Museum, Bongwonsa Temple, Yonsei University, Seodaemun-gu Office, Muakjae Station and Hongje Station. Of these, Bongwonsa Temple and Seodaemun Prison History Museum are probably the easiest.

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The old signal fire station is a good spot to take in the city.

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The old city wall snakes down Mt. Naksan.

Naksan Park: Shimmering dragon in the moonlight In the days of the Joseon Dynasty, Mt. Naksan was one of the four guardian mountains of Seoul, along with Mt. Bugaksan, Mt. Inwangsan and Mt. Namsan.

The mountain got its name, which translates as “camel mountain,” because the massif was said to resemble a camel’s back. The peak, which marked the eastern limit of the city, was already a popular scenic spot in the Joseon era, when local aristocrats built villas on its slopes. Seoul’s old city wall, which protected the city from attack, ran along the entirety of the mountain’s ridge line.

Today, Mt. Naksan is a popular leisure spot for local residents and tourists. Overlooking the Daehak-ro district, a lively neighborhood of theaters, cafes and restaurants, the mountain is crowned by Naksan Park, a green space with views of downtown Seoul, Dongdaemun, the hilltop neighborhood of Changsindong and Mt. Namsan. Many locals come here to do a bit of exercise and get some fresh air. It’s a very pleasant spot, especially in summer, when you can sit back and enjoy the cool breeze.

Mt. Naksan’s real draw, however, is its preserved section of the old city wall. The Naksan segment

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The old city wall is lined by walking paths.

runs from the landmark Heunginjimun Gate, a.k.a.

Dongdaemun, to Hyehwamun Gate. Its granite wall, which snakes along the entire ridge, is lined by easy walking paths. Architectural lights illuminate the historical wall at night. Under the moonlight, it looks like a shimmering dragon, slithering through the undulating landscape. The beautiful spot frequently appears in TV dramas and films.

While Naksan Park provides excellent views at night, so does Ihwa-dong Village, a hilltop community on the

Exploring Seoul

mountain’s western slope. Originally a working class neighborhood, Ihwa-dong has gentrified due to its many colorful murals, the result of a public art project that was either a raging success or a bane on the locals, depending on who you ask. Its alleys are now filled with workshops, museums and cafés as well as homes, although many of the businesses close at night out of respect for the locals.

Nevertheless, its an interesting place to walk around at night. One spot in the village that is popular with nightscape photographers is the so-called “Ihwa-dong P-turn,” a p-shaped twist in the road that lends itself to long-exposure photography when cars pass through — a 30-second exposure usually suffices.

Naksan Park is just a 10-minute walk from Hyehwa Station (Line 4), Exit 2.

You can also take Bus 03 from Dongdaemun Station (Line 1), Exit 5

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1. National Museum of Korean Contemporary History 2. Mt. Namsan 3. Mt. Ansan 4. Naksan Park

Photographers enjoy Ihwa-dong Village’s p-turn.

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While his little family rests in the open sun, the writer searches for the right angle in Seosan’s highland ranches.

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Exploring Seoul

서해안 오토바이 여행

On the Open Road A photographer discovers western Korea’s unique beauty by motorcycle Written and photographed by Robert Michael Evans

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Visitors bustle along the vibrant boardwalk at Wolmido Park.

“The open road still softly calls…” This short quote from Carl Sagan is a mantra that I find myself repeating in my daily life in Seoul. Even with its abundance of pleasures, life in the iron jungle occasionally demands a temporary escape. With a precious holiday upon us, it was time. Most of the locals were still sleeping when we — my fiancée, our chihuahua Gatsby and I — loaded our luggage onto the back of my trusty Hyosung Mirage motorcycle to depart on our next adventure: a three day ride down Korea’s western coast.

Pit stops in Incheon, Wolmido and Soraepogu Our first destination was to Incheon harbor in the

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hope of stumbling across scenic boats left stranded by the low tide. Instead, we were greeted by vast swathes of coastline dominated by a seemingly infinite supply of cargo ships. It’s an ominous industrial zone that maintains Seoul’s insatiable demand for importing and exporting products; it’s also a place that makes you feel as if you shouldn’t be there. We kept riding along the coast in an attempt to salvage the beginning of our trip when we came across Wolmido Island. A boardwalk running along the coastline was lined with shops selling every sort of edible treat imaginable. Restaurants, cafés and food stands buzzed with families enjoying the pleasantries of a fresh spring day, while Wolmido

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Patience is key when traveling with a photographer.

Theme Park rides loomed off in the distance. It seemed like a great place for a fun family outing. It was time to get back on the road.

You know you’re getting close to Sorae Ecological Park when the horizon starts to clear out, giving you the feeling that you’re starting to break free from Seoul’s grasp. In the past, the area was a large salt farm, but local authorities have since transformed it into an ecological zone, providing an opportunity for the natural environment to revitalize itself. Although the muddy landscape at first seems barren, it comes to life when armies of crabs scatter for refuge as your shadow passes over. While a few families were enjoying

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You know you’re getting close to Sorae Ecological Park when the horizon starts to clear out, giving you the feeling that you’re starting to break free from Seoul’s grasp.

picnics, a large groups of cyclists were having a gimbap break in the shade. A short walk into a field, behind the mudflats, you can find this destination’s main allure.

Three windmills stand tall and isolated, providing an

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The sun sets on the rocky coast of Daebudo.

excellent location to snap an iconic picture.

The Sihwa Seawall: a traveler’s bliss With every road trip out of Seoul, there is always a pinnacle moment when I’m swept away by pure bliss and freedom. This time, the dopamine hit came in the form of the Sihwa Seawall. The Sihwa Seawall is 10 kilometers of accessible awesomeness connecting Oido to Daebudo. A sharp, salty sea breeze engulfs the two narrow lanes of traffic, which are flanked on both sides by the sea. Many travelers pull off to the side of the road for some ocean-side fishing. Even the unprepared can join in on an attempt to catch lunch by stopping at the numerous trucks that rent out rods and bait.

Once off the seawall and into Daebudo, we made a beeline for the closest coast. Smooth asphalt roads gave way to dirt, which in turn gave way to chunky gravel, making it difficult to navigate on our top-heavy, two-wheeled vehicle. Soon enough, a quaint area of the rocky coast revealed itself. With a bed-and-breakfast acquired, we walked down for an oceanside dinner as the sun began sinking below the horizon. Enjoying a romantic dinner by the seaside was a welcome chance,

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even with our little pooch begging from scraps. The shores of Daebudo are packed with clams, muscles, oysters and other shelled delights. As seafood is at its best when close to the source, seafood soup, or haemulguk, was the obvious choice for our dinner.

Tranquil views give way to eerie coasts Waking up the next morning, we headed south through the towns of Hwaseong, Danjin and Seosan. Our next destination was Ganwolam Hermitage. Ganwolam is special because of its location. At high tide, the temple, sealed off from the land, temporarily becomes an island. At low tide, the water recedes to reveal a land bridge, allowing visitors to access the temple and enjoy the historical location. Taking in the sea breeze from the hermitage builds an intense cultural and historical connection to Korea’s past. It’s easy to close your eyes and imagine monks getting swept away in spiritual tranquility by the watery isolation.

Leaving Ganwolam, we rode west towards Taean’s Mallipo Beach. About two kilometers from the beach, we ran into a mist so ominously dense it was if it had come straight from the pages of a Stephen King

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Visitors can enjoy a sunset stroll along the Daebudo coast or a chance at catching dinner.

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33 The windmills of Sorae Ecological Park stand proud in isolation.

The Sinduri Coastal Dunes offer a unique escape.

novel. Though turning back was an appealing option, we trudged forward. Mallipo slowly began to reveal itself, one building at a time. The sea hid behind the mist, even as the crashing waves roared. The mist shrouded the storefronts and restaurants, making for a surreal, even eerie evening walk. With no shortage of restaurants in Mallipo, we popped into one and opted for the a seafood stew, or haemuljiggae. The thick and spicy red broth perfectly complimented the fresh seafood.

Sand dunes and grassy hills The next morning, we awoke to crystal clear skies and a beautiful view of the coastline. Packing quickly, we headed to our next destination, the sand dunes of Sindori. The dunes are a short ride from Mallipo Beach, smack in the middle of Taean’s coastline. As Korea’s only large sand dunes, they produce a singular, visually arresting landscape. Follow the pre-routed trails through the dunes to view the formations — preserve Mist covers Mallipo Beach.

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Spicy and delicious haemulguk is a requirement for a coastal dinner.

Daebudo’s ocean side huts offer cozy refuge to enjoy a sunset and meal with friends.

the environment by staying on the paths provided.

After a quick pit stop at the mechanic, we departed for our last location, the highland ranches of Seosan.

The highland ranches comprise a visual landmark you can find southeast of Seosan, along a stretch of National Road 647. The undulating grassy hills, marked by small roads that meander through them, offer an enjoyable break from the typical countryside landscape of rice paddies and thick foliage. If you are riding through the area, it’s worth a peak.

With that, we completed our checklist of locations and started our journey back to Seoul to once again begin daydreaming of future adventures on the road.

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Dreaming Will Never Get Old SEOUL speaks with the artist and curator behind the Daelim Museum’s new ‘The Selby House’ exhibition Written and photographed by Diana Park

Selby in Seoul? Drums roll. Glass breaks. Jaws drop. The unlikely combination deserves an award for unexpected chemistry, but also makes perfect sense. The works of a colorful, maximalist American artistphotographer in the vibrant, fast-paced city of Seoul — why not?

The Daelim Museum is hosting Todd Selby’s first solo show, “The Selby House,” through Oct. 29. The exhibition explores Selby’s fantastical world through four stories of photographs, illustrations and large-scale installations.

Todd Selby is a photographer and illustrator known for his delightful documentation of the living and working spaces of some of the most influential — and some of the most under-the-radar — creatives around the world. “The Selby House” is divided into six sections that reveal Todd Selby both as an artist and as a man.

After shaking hands with Selby the Photographer and Illustrator, we take in his signature documentation photos from his books “The Selby is In Your Place,” “Edible Selby,” and “Fashionable Selby.”

As we move upwards, the exhibition unpacks Selby’s personal, intimate side — a side unknown to most of the world

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— in the most colorful, in-your-face, jam-packed way possible. We travel with him to Los Angeles and San Francisco, take a look around his home and studio, and end up at the fragment of his childhood dream. He is no longer just a distant artist, but a fellow neighbor and friend. We’re pulled so close to the world of Todd Selby that the colors bleed into us. Selby sums it up perfectly. “It’s my opportunity to invite you into my home, my world.”

Daelim Museum’s exhibitions have always been refreshing and relevant.

With the vision to “bring art in the everyday,” the institution is committed to push the boundaries of how art and artists are viewed. Ahn Ju-hui, the chief curator of the exhibition, remarks, “We hope to introduce artists who are not bound by one single medium, but express through many mediums. We thought Selby would be great to introduce as a new type of artist, and we reached out.”

Working against the conventional norms The moving force behind Selby’s multimedia work has always been people. He says, “I’ve always been fascinated with people, so my work has always been

about people. When you visit someone’s home, you can learn so much about them, and that’s the root of my work.”

He shares a memory that started it all.

“At school, there was a guy who would sit during recess and draw Garfield the Cat over and over again,” he recalls. “To me, he was the coolest. I didn’t care for the athletes and cheerleaders — but was always for the artist and the outcast. My work continues to be a celebration of the outsider, creator and artist.”

Ahn attributed Selby’s enthusiasm for people as one of main factors of an enjoyable working process. “In the beginning stages, we put a lot of time and effort into establishing an understanding between the artist and the museum. Bridging the gaps takes a long time and can be strenuous,” she says.

“Selby, being an active communicator, figured out the personality of our institution and audience during his first visit to Korea. These steps helped so much with communication for the rest of the project.”

The preparation, which took nearly two years, included up to 50 emails a day, installation mock-ups, business trips and how-to-install videos personally made by Selby himself. Ahn marveled

Interview

Todd Selby is a photographer and illustrator known for his delightful documentation of the living and working spaces of some of the most influential creatives around the world.

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38 Curator Ahn Ju-hui has helped realize Selby’s vision to Seoul.

Interview I

“Selby the Traveler” illustrates Selby’s trips between Los Angeles and New York.

at Selby’s unending bank of ideas. “He has the drive and potential to create anything. He didn’t just throw ideas, but followed through with content quality,” she explains. “For example, when we gave feedback about a specific illustration piece, he would send back a complete new piece of work. He invested an enormous amount of passion and energy, and we learned a lot as well.”

Ahn commented how this attitude may challenge the mindset of some.

She observes, “Koreans tend to hesitate before doing something. They think, ‘can I do this well?’ Even children hesitate when drawing instead of just going for it! Selby’s work shows the value of expressing yourself, and his life shows how art can be a resource to express emotions and share thoughts to others.” She adds, “His free, confident attitude will inspire Korean audiences, especially adults like myself. A belief that I can do anything. If I make something, it can be art.”

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Up close and personal It’s not every day that you get to intimately meet a person through their artwork. The “Selby the Neighbor” section, however, does that. By entering Selby’s uncensored personal space, we also learn about his personhood.

The museum suggested the idea for the section, believing that a Korean audience would want to know about Selby the Person. What better way than by showing his space? Ahn did have concerns though. She explains, “Placing a replica of an artist studio in a museum is not very interesting, so we combined fictional and real elements to make the space most Selby as possible.”

The result was not an imitation of his Los Angeles home, but a merging of spaces he lived in his childhood, college years, 1990s to now. “By the way, I don’t live in a house like this,” Selby says, laughing. His wife is a minimalist and their home is the perfect array of clean and white, except for his cluttered, messy

studio. Ahn adds, “Though his actual room is not maximalist, this section was a way for him to express himself outside of his home.”

Laughs, replicas and imitations aside, Selby want the audience to express itself freely by experiencing this space.

“I hope you will learn a thing or two through seeing my space,” he says. “I also hope seeing a messy environment in a museum space will inspire and encourage the artistic and even messy people out there.”

Dreams in working progress The Selby House is a portal encompassing the past, present and future dreams of the artist, curator and viewers.

For the show, Selby broadened his artistic boundaries to produce the projects he always wanted to do. He says, “I try not to limited myself or put myself in a box. I’m not bound by medium and can freely move between

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“Selby the Dreamer” is a colorful jungle inspired by his childhood dream.

“Selby the Neighbor” gives an intimate look of Selby’s room and studio.

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Interview

To the viewers living in a competition- and pressure-filled society, Selby provides a delightful yet challenging insight into the world of a person who does not stop at the impossible.

mediums. That’s an advantage of not being an expert. I try to stay to true to myself as a creator, but also constantly change, evolve and challenge myself and must give credit to the museum for encouraging me to do so. There is so much work here I haven’t done before, like the illustration resin frames in ‘Selby the Storyteller’ and the jungle room with over 200 sculptures in ‘Selby the Dreamer’.”

The 3D reinterpretation of his largely 2D body of work was truly phenomenal.

It was the result of active communication and support. Ahn explains, “The artist’s role is to throw out ideas, and the museum helps the artist bring his vision to life. It was risky since we couldn’t see some of the pieces in person until they were shipped to us. But we had trust knowing that we know our space the best and he knows his work the best. In the end, we felt satisfaction from turning his dreams into reality.”

Ahn also talked about her favorite section: “I loved the jungle room the most. I loved that he revived a journal entry he wrote as a 13-year-old as someone who is now in his 40s. As an adult in my 30s, I gained inspiration and hope — and though it may seem cheesy,

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he did see his dream come true in that room.”

The public’s response to the show has been overwhelmingly positive. “People really enjoy it and love the bright energy of the exhibition. I realize that if I work with joy, people will feel it as well,” she says. “My role as a curator is to be the messenger of the artist’s work to the audience. I’m content when the artist is satisfied with the results and the public responds well to our intentions. That’s my fuel to continue what I do.”

The true engine of this show may be reflected in the artist’s personal philosophy. Selby says, “I believe that creative expression is something we can all do without professional training. As someone who’s taught myself, I would like to encourage the viewers to go and make art yourselves.” He adds that this is only the beginning of his journey with Korea. “My hope is that this show will introduce my work to Korea, so I can return many times and build a network in Seoul and do interesting work. I’m excited for the future I have here.”

The Selby House is more than an art exhibition, especially in a place like Korea. To the viewers living in a competition- and pressure-filled

society, Selby provides a delightful yet challenging insight into the world of a person who does not stop at the impossible. He is unconventional and successful. He did not live by the books, but became successful by staying true to himself.

Having drunk in the exhibit in its entirety, I left the museum inspired not just by what I had seen, but also from the awakening of my inner child with her dreams and visions. Poet Langston Hughes once said, “Hold fast to your dreams, for without them life is a broken-winged bird that cannot fly.”

Selby will continue dreaming. Ahn will continue to dream, too, by bringing the visions of her artists to reality.

Daelim Museum 21, Jahamun-ro 4-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul T.02-720-0667 www.daelimmuseum.org/eng/ index.do

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A City in the Making Written and photographed by Diana Park

The narrative of Seoul is no longer linear, but intricately complex and continuously changing. With a thriving expat community and a growing number of Koreans with overseas experience, the city is more diverse than ever.

SEOUL is more than a resource for tourist spots or cultural events in the city. We are a platform for its people. No matter our background or beliefs, we are intertwined as Seoulites. Our presence in Seoul, at this time, puts us together. In this new section, Seoul Stories, the people of Seoul share with us their experiences and their feelings about the city.

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Seoul Stories

How long have you lived in Seoul? All my life. Over 30 years.

What do you do? I work full-time at an environmental equipment company. I run a café at night.

Value of Connection

Lee Sang Han is an office worker by day and café owner by night. He fosters a life of adventure and intentional connection in Seoul.

You have a ”strange” name (the pronunciation of his name, Lee Sang Han, is the same as the Korean word for “strange”). What does it mean?

My grandfather named me. In Chinese characters, “Sang” means together and “Han” means wings. He wanted me to become a person who gets along well with people.

When and why did you start a café?

I opened it last year. It’s a three-story café with an interior inspired by my love of broken-down cars. I’m not into the minimalist look of so many cafes here. I feel more at home in the dirt and grit of a garage. I wanted to create an accessible space for people to come and enjoy each other’s company.

Tell me about the people of Seoul.

People are so busy here. They know how to talk about themselves, but lack the ability to carry on a conversation. They’re also attuned to trends, but lack substance and depth.

Foreigners don’t mind checking out the

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café without buying anything. On the other hand, most Koreans find spontaneous interactions uncomfortable. When I explain the different options we have, people are more interested in what Naver blogs say.

I missed the times when we shared jeong (the Korean word for affection). People still show little acts of kindness on the outskirts of the city, but it’s hard to see here. A neighbor near the café made extra kimchi pancakes and dropped it off the other day.

We need more of that in Seoul.

What do you do in your spare time? I love traveling. I’ve traveled to 40 or 50 countries. I love meeting new people in new environments. I never eat Korean food abroad and prefer to stay in guesthouses instead of hotels. I gained so much independence as well as the ability to connect with almost anyone.

Any projects on your mind? I want to write a book about Portland. I met the friendliest people in all of America there.

Also, the food culture is vibrant with many up-and-coming chefs. I still keep in touch with people I met there and want to write about local picks of the city.

What’s your end goal? I just want to enjoy life to the fullest. Money is important, but it’s secondary to me.

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Ready for Something New South African content creator Joni Els shares about her six years living in Seoul.

Joni Els planned to be in Korea for just a year, but ended up staying for six. After briefly teaching, she took part in the entire creative spectrum in Seoul, from engaging in collaborative art projects with locals and expats and participating in the #livingoffthewall documentary series with Vans to working at a corporate ad agency. Now, six years later, she is back to where she began, ready to enter into new territory while following the compass of her curiosity and love for people.

Tell us about yourself. My name is Joni Els. I’m a multimedia content creator.

How did you come to Korea? I’m from South Africa and I’ve always been interested in what’s outside my world. My university friends were teaching in Korea, and it sounded so different from anything I’ve experienced.

The process of coming here was random and fast. I was overworked in the film industry in South Africa and wanted to rediscover the love in my work. I woke up one day thinking, “I need to go somewhere!” Two months later, I arrived in Korea.

What were your first few months in Korea like? For the first few months, I lived on ramen while teaching. I wanted

to save enough to become a one-woman production show. I eventually got my own equipment and started collaborating with people. From then on, it was a chain effect of one project after another. Passion surely has a way of getting you to the right resources! Within a year, I was working two full-time jobs. I taught from nine to six and I grabbed my equipment for a shoot and edited until 4 a.m.

Tell us about your creative projects. In 2012, I was part of the Seoul Urban Project, or SUP. It was a collaborative urban art movement made up of local artists in Seoul, headed by artist Junkhouse. We chose redeveloping neighborhoods and created multi-disciplinary projects. We documented the work — and few months later, it was gone. That was the beauty of it!

www.joniels.com

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Seoul Stories

How was working with Vans? In 2014, I was about to leave Korea. I had packed my bags and bought a ticket to India.

Then I got a phone call from Vans. They were working with directors in different countries to document people living off the wall. They had a hard time looking for a female director in Korea until they found out about me.

I dropped everything and took the opportunity. I wanted an all-women crew, but it was so difficult to find people.

90 percent of the crew was men; that’s the reality of the Korean film industry.

Regardless, I had the most incredible summer going to interviews, meeting people and exploring Seoul.

How was the transition from exciting hands-on collaborative projects to the corporate life in Korea? After Vans, I started working at a Korean ad agency. It

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www.joniels.com

www.joniels.com

I also participated in a music collective called the Loose Union. It was formed by expats who saw a gap in indie and independent music due to the heavy focus on K-pop. We performed shows, made albums, in-studio recordings and guerrilla music videos. People eventually moved on and even left the country, but the project was so inspirational and we still keep in touch.

Seoul feels like a growing, breathing, living organism. I like how it’s constantly changing and evolving.

was radically different from how I’ve worked with Koreans in the past five years, and I was shocked by the reality of corporate culture I’ve only heard or read about. All in all, it was a great learning experience and I made friends I’ll keep in touch with.

has been the biggest takeaway. It’s easy to put yourself out there with a support system, but much harder to build yourself up in a space with nothing. Everyone has something to contribute and you have to add your voice to the mix!

Now you’re leaving Korea. What led to your decision? Seoul feels like a growing, breathing, living organism. I like how it’s constantly changing and evolving. But I’m not growing with this city anymore.

Working at an office has left me out of touch and I miss the hustle of my early years here.

I’m moving to Ethiopia in a few weeks. I’ll be working multiple production jobs, but will be more aligned with what I need to do — and again, in a new city.

Do you see a difference in how Koreans view or interact with foreigners from when you first got here and now? Most of my experience has been positive with incredible encounters with kind people.

I felt like I was part of this community, especially with the older generation.

Moments like walking down the street with people shoving apple slices in my mouth!

I was surprised though by how so many young people study English here but have never spoken to a foreigner. I sense fear and apprehension. When Koreans feel like they can’t speak perfect English, they just don’t.

I get similar responses when I try to speak Korean. I think patience and understanding will help to take the extra step. I hope that multicultural influences like foreign teachers will cultivate positive change.

How has Korea changed you? For better or worst? Definitely for the better!

I planned to stay for a year but ended up staying for six. There were moments when I wanted to leave, but Korea always opened opportunities aligned with my passions. I owe so much to Korea and the people it attracts — and I hope I’ve given something back.

I come from a multicultural country and love connecting with people with diverse backgrounds. Making sincere connections with people who are different than me

Do you have any end goals? Experience and inspiration moves me forward. People’s experiences are rooted in the places. My life will be all about seeking for the new inspiration to expand my horizons.

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A Social Guesthouse Located in the charming Seochon neighborhood, Vine blends the traditional, the modern and the artistic Written and photographed by Romain John

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In this time of presidential renewal, SEOUL invites you to discover Vine, a traditional guesthouse near the presidential mansion, Cheong Wa Dae. Literally situated just one alleyway away from Cheong Wa Dae, Vine is located in the Seochon district, a historical neighborhood west of Gyeongbokgung Palace. With their many Hanok homes, Seochon and Bukchon may seem like siblings separated by Gyeongbokgung Palace. Bukchon, however, is almost overrun with tourists, while Seochon has managed to remain more authentic. The narrow alleys here are populated by a mix of new cafÊs, old restaurants with good reputations, Hanok homes and modern buildings. Vine is located in one of those picturesque alleys. In fact, that’s what makes a stay here so special.

Staying true to the Hanok Kim Minha and her mother manage two Hanok houses in Seochon; they are both renovated to comfortably accommodate guests, but have meticulously preserved their Hanok identities. Both homes are over

Accommodation

a hundred years old. The wood and stone are full of stories. Kim was born in Bukchon, but later moved to Seochon as tourism transformed her former home into something other than the haven of peace it used to be.

Since she grew up in a Hanok herself, she knows what makes them special. She also knows how to make them be special for you.

If you come in the right season, she will even give you grapes from the eponymous vine she planted in the garden. You can also appreciate the art in the houses.

With a degree in art and currently completing her

masters in aesthetic philosophy, Kim can also answer any questions you may have on those subjects. She can also recommends exhibitions to further your experience of Korean art.

Hanok houses are social constructions, so your host has paid close attention to organizing her common areas so that you can share your discoveries during your stay in Seoul.

If you are looking for a convivial place with authentic local charm, check out Vine guesthouse and let yourself be carried away by the spirit of the space.

68-3, Jahamun-ro, Jongno-gu Contact info: Kim Minha T. 010-8870-5439, vinehousekr@naver.com www.vineguesthouse.com, blog.naver.com/vinehousekr

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Truly Amazing Steven Park’s Amazing Brewing Company makes craft brews for a crafty neighborhood Written by Jennifer Flinn Photographed by Henry Kim

Nearly all of Steven Park’s stories have two versions: There’s a clear, official story he tells with the confident air of a master brewer and successful businessman, and the follow up “real” version, delivered with a rakish grin and a good-natured chuckle. Relaxing into a lounge chair outside the converted factory that houses the brewery and bar, the stories flow out of the head brewer like beer from one of the Amazing Brewing Company’s wall of taps.

How did Park become one of Korea’s foremost brewmasters in the first place? “Ok, so here’s the official story: I like to make stuff. I wanted to make something,” he begins earnestly, then cracks a smile. “Honestly, there was this girl. There’s always a girl, and she wanted a particular beer that wasn’t available here in Korea, so I decided to make it for her.” Park’s enthusiasm for beer making outlasted the relationship, taking him from home brewing in the dorms at KAIST while working on his MBA to winning nationwide competitions in the span of just a few months, and eventually to a partnership at the head of one of Seoul’s most celebrated brew pubs. He’s collected accolades for his stouts, admiration for his sours and prizes since he first started throwing his home brews in the ring.

The Amazing Brewing Company is barely more than a year old, but already has become a center for beer aficionados despite being the smallest commercial brewery in Korea. Founded by Park and certified cicerone “TK” Kim, the brewery started in a converted factory from 1959 in the up-and-coming Seongsu-dong area, a warren of factories and workshops interspersed with hip coffee shops, restaurants and boutiques.

“Officially, we decided to open in Seongsu-dong because it’s such a crafty area. Everyone makes stuff here,” says Park. “But the real story is we started here because were were brewing in TK’s garage. He lives nearby and it makes it easy to manage, and we have good memories of being here.”

Amazing Brewing Company 어메이징브루잉컴퍼니 4, Seongsuil-ro 4-gil, Seongdong-gu

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02-465-5208

Handcrafted beers, handcrafted space The brewery and the neighborhood certainly suit each other, combining a quirky, easy-going vibe with a little grit. Park is especially proud to have designed virtually everything himself, and the hands-on ethos carries over

Dining

into everything on hand. “All the equipment and design is made by us.”

This handcrafting of the space and equipment has an added, secret benefit. The entire operation can be broken down in a few hours and moved, with equipment built for mobility. “We can move everything in eight hours — that’s how long it took to set up the brewery equipment when we moved in,” Park adds. The whole process of getting the brewery up and running took only a few months. It’s a key part of their approach to being a “nanobrewery” where the small scale rules the day, and where every bit of equipment, every ingredient and every bit of labor matters. The love carries over into a hands-on approach for the crafting of beer that larger operations can’t manage.

“We’re more like a big home-brewing set-up than a normal brewery, so we have to be innovative. Most breweries don’t, but here, everything is done by hand,” Park gestures to the gleaming equipment. “We don’t even have any agitators, so we do all our mixing by hand.”

The handcrafting and attention pays off in an astonishingly huge range of beers for such a small operation. Stouts with a seductive coffee nose, bright and fruity yuja ale, clean and refreshing lagers, and the bracing tang of sours can be called forth from the dozens

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of taps in the pub and matched with bar foods ranging from traditional favorites like onion rings and steaks to more gourmet fare like hazelnut crostini with maple cream cheese and bacon or even corn ice cream.

Park’s not above taking a little time in the kitchen, either, or rolling out the barbecue in the courtyard. As the weather gets hot, he has some solid advice for finding the right drink to cool off with: “Something like an ale with light alcohol, low hops and some fruit is good for summer. You want something easy to keep drinking with your friends, a kind of ‘table beer.’ But Korean food is more spicy, saltier, so a lager works. For summer, I suggest a sour — they’re good for thirst quenching. Saisons are good, too.” But Park emphasizes that the most important elements of a good summer drink are the company you keep and the atmosphere.

Park’s philosophy toward brewing is simple and straightforward. “Making beer is making a recipe. If you can cook, if you can wash dishes, you can make it, but you have to understand the ingredients and techniques.

You have to be able to expect the outcome.” The payoff is in interesting, exciting beer, but also the simple pleasure of a job well done.

“I just want to do what I’m good at and brew a lot of different beers.”

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Burger Special Written by Cynthia Yoo

The city’s full of delicious burger joints, each with their distinctive styles. Pair them with a calorie-laden milkshake or a cool pint of ale, the choice is yours.

Itaewon the Burger

Notice the name. It’s not a burger in Itaewon. It’s the burger in Itaewon. It’s all about making the best burger in town. To do that, the shop makes its patties every morning from choice-grade US beef. The patties are grilled over charcoal made from coconut palm shells. This lends a subtle charcoal flavor to the juicy patties. The burgers are made with whole meal buns baked daily from the acclaimed bakeshop,

이태원더버거 22, Noksapyeong-daero 32-gil, Yongsan-gu 02-797-8940 @itaewontheburger www.facebook.com/itaewontheburger/

the richness of the meat patty and cheese.

But Firebell is also known for its simple classic burgers: the Rookie, a classic cheeseburger, and Dr. Leo, stacked up with bacon and cheese. These burgers highlight the quality of the patties, toppings and buns. If you’re in the mood for something different, try the new Beverly Hills burger, with bacon chips, grilled mushrooms, swiss cheese and truffle mayo. Pair whatever burger with a side of the perfectly-done fries. And if you’re not counting calories, order the Nutella milkshake to round out the perfect burger set.

Firebell is a small but stylish burger joint tucked away in the hagwon alleyways of Daechi-dong. Locals say that the red and white interior with its fire-station motif helps to get your appetite going, and so do the smells from the grills in the open kitchen. Firebell burgers never fail to satisfy your burger cravings. It’s famous for their spicy burgers like the Call 911 and Havana.

Koreans believe the spiciness balances out

13, Seolleung-ro 72-gil, Gangnam-gu 02-6489-0041 @firebellburger www.facebook.com/FIREBELLBURGER/

© Henry Kim

© Henry Kim

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© Romain John

© Romain John

Firebell 파이어벨

The Velo, famous for its long-fermented breads made with only natural starters.

To top it off, the burgers are served with house-made sauces, using various herbs and spices to enhance the flavors of the patties and toppings.

The difficulty is in choosing which of the burgers to try at a sitting. Popular choices include the Big Double Burger or the BBQ Bacon Cheese Burger. Feeling a little adventurous? The Cherry Cream Cheese Burger might be the answer. In line with current burger trends, the shop is pushing its burgers with avocado like the Avocadict Burger and the Lettuce Avocado Burger.

There’s also a good menu of sides like cajun fries and buffalo wings. And don’t forget the shakes and craft beers.

Dining

Burger Bang 버거뱅 29, Changdeokgung-gil, Jongno-gu 02-765-5213 @burger_bang www.facebook.com/burgerbang156/

© Romain John

© Romain John

Gilbert’s Burger & Fries

They know how to grill up a mean American-style burger with its juicy patty and fresh toppings. The meat patties are made daily from freshly ground beef. The kitchen uses a mix of different beef cuts to make the patties juicy and firm. The popular Mr. President burger is topped with cheddar cheese, bacon, romaine lettuce, tomato, onions and a dill pickle.

Folks love the sides as well. Some say the sweet potato fries are the best in town. But for others, the onion rings are hard to beat.

And of course there’s a delectable array of diet-busting milkshakes, beers and sodas available. A tip for folks looking to lower their calorie count: there’s a junior version of the Gilbert burger.

The restaurant’s green neon signs point customers into its half-basement location in Garosugil. Many cafés and dessert shops have come and gone in the area, but Gilbert’s Burger has proven its mettle.

Customers love the hip and laid-back atmosphere, but Gilbert’s popularity rests on the consistent quality of the burgers they serve.

길버트 버거 앤 프라이즈 47, Dosan-daero 15-gil, Gangnam-gu 02-546-5453 www.facebook.com/gilbertsburger/

© Henry Kim

© Henry Kim

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the American Chili Burger. The delicious balsamic dressing is made in-house and so are the sparkling fruit ades, including the popular grapefruit ade.

The cherry on top is the location of the restaurant. A lovely view of the Changdeokgung Palace area is the perfect accompaniment to the food and drinks.

And as the owner is the owner of an architectural firm, there’s great care put into the interior and design elements.

In many ways, Burger Bang is a surprise, a surprises to the senses. Make sure to go during late afternoon and enjoy a sundowner with your burger.

There’s attention to detail at Burger Bang.

The Bukchon burger joint bakes its brioche buns each morning using high quality Italian flour, Caputo. The meat patties are made from beef finely minced twice daily and are not seasoned too much in order to bring out their flavors. Their signature The Burger Bang is made with cheddar cheese, onion, bacon, tomato and spinach. If you’re in the mood for something more spicy, try

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Post-Hipster Hangouts Step off the beaten path to discover enclaves of Seoul’s underground Written by Marta Allina Photographed by Robert Michael Evans

In the 1940s, the word “hipster” meant “someone who likes hot jazz”–which at the time was almost unspeakably avant-garde. Since then, the exact trends associated with “the hipster” have changed and changed again, as have the locations where the so-called hipsters gathered. Combing the wildness out of hipster hangouts never works for long.

Even today, the true rebels are still running out to open up shop somewhere new. This month we set out on a mission to discover the next generation of alternative: Seoul’s own post-hipsters at the four hangouts below.

Café Ruloorala 한잔의 룰루랄라 The owner of Ruloorala (think the gurgling noise a baby makes when it tries to sing) is pretty much the quintessence of Hongdae’s modern post-hipster. His venue is its kingdom, full of illogical contradictions.

It’s a coffee shop but it’s a bar, it’s a comic book place but it holds live concerts. And on top of it all, it looks like your older brother’s super cool but slightly scruffy bedroom. You can spend a rainy afternoon with a latte, working on your freelance projects, or a night of heavy drinking, listening to dude on a guitar singing very politically incorrect lyrics. It’s deservedly well-loved by the older generation of the indie scene: a bit like Jebidabang before it got annoyingly famous after that IU surprise concert. Also, we endorse the curry udong served there. It made us very happy.

83, Hongik-ro 6-gil, Mapo-gu 02-337-9887 | 12 PM - 2 AM

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Nightlife

Archive Bomm 아카이브 봄

Channel 1969 채널1969 This hole-in-the-wall coffee shop by day and live music venue by night is not new on the indie scene: until recently, it was a staple of the now-gentrified Hapjeong café street. But last month it moved to hip Yeonnam, and we cannot help but notice some upgrades. Bigger space for dancing, a better sound system to rock our world and a much more diverse menu, combined with its good ol’ anti-establishment atmosphere, make us want to put on our red socks and swing the night away to celebrity acts from The Barberettes and Kim Ildu to more off-the-charts Tiger Disco or gender-bender SsingSsing.

Once upon a time a group of very young artists — musicians, painters, performers, art critics, poets, chefs and skateboarders — decided that the then-current artistic community didn’t suit their creative needs. So they all pitched in to make their own community, beginning the saga of Archive Bomm. Currently, Bomm is located in Hyochang, near Seoul Station, an area undergoing major urbanistic change. The space can be best described as a Japanese ogre, or Soho onions: it has many, many layers.

Gallery, live-music hall, music video scene, fashion outlet, one-table restaurant plus a coffee shop/bar/DJ booth on the first floor. It’s a truly creative haven for anyone who dares to think outside the social norms.

24 Baekbeomro-77-gil, Yongsan-gu 7 PM - last guest (closed on Mondays)

35, Yeonhui-ro, Mapo-gu | 010-5581-1112 12 PM - 3 AM

Strange Fruit 스트레인지 프룻 Eve wasn’t being a silly goose when she took the bite of the forbidden apple: Girl was out for the adventure and she got it and then some. If you are willing to follow her footsteps, head for a dingy-looking dive bar called “Strange Fruit.” It doesn’t have a stage and yet it hosts some of the best indie acts in Seoul, fueled with cheap whiskey shots and beer and endless collections of CDs that would make any music enthusiast eat his hat and cry. What’s even more enchanting is that you never know what musicians will be playing on the given night.

Jazz, heavy metal, glam rock, girl punk? The place has seen it all. So don’t be shy! Bite into some Strange Fruit of your own.

64, Wausan-ro 29-gil, Mapo-gu 7 PM - 1 AM

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Scrubbing Up Nicely We interview Yann Cavaille of Pute Deluxe on rooftop parties, Seoul’s nightlife scene and Itaewon’s brand-new club, Soap.

Written by Rhiannon Shepherd

© Soap

Yann Cavaille has been a fixture in Seoul’s nightlife on and off for the past seven years. He first came to Korea in 2010, to travel, and ended up playing at “every kind of venue here you can imagine.” He now is one of the masterminds behind the event planningslash-DJ crew Pute Deluxe, as well as part of the team behind Itaewon’s new It Spot, Soap.

The opening of Soap was a natural progression for Cavaille, his longtime

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DJ partner Julian Quintart, and their crew. Having spent years playing as a DJ collective across Korea and Asia, the group launched a series of rooftop parties in Seoul in the summer of 2014. The parties have since garnered somewhat of a reputation among partygoers on the peninsula, with attending artists including Hoody, Starro and Jay Park.

“We had 1,800 people at a rooftop party, at one point,” says Cavaille. “And a lot of them went on to an after-party at

a nearby venue.”

“Being part of the opening of a new club this year just seemed like the natural thing to do. We already had a following, and we knew the local scene well.”

The past few years have been tough for the superclubs of Seoul, due in part to the tendency of young clubbers to expect free entry, and the general detachment of wealthy club owners to the real demands of the local industry. As a result, Seoul’s dancefloors — once some of the largest

Nightlife

Magazine

“We bring in artists whose music we like.

Ones that we want to see play, and that make us happy.”

In perhaps an unintentional hat-tip to musical longevity, Soap is on the site where once stood Club Moon Night: one of Korea’s first ever dance clubs and hot spot of Itaewon from the mid-1980s to mid-1990s. Moon Night was renowned for being a melting pot of the era’s dancing and singing talents, including Seo Taiji and R.ef.

Cavaille and his team hope to channel some of this iconic musical backstory, as the club offers patrons an eclectic yet high-caliber mix of global hip-hop, house and electronic music. Acts playing at Soap since its opening this past March have included Josh Pan, Full Crate, Tennyson and DJ Falcon.

Although it’s not always easy

© Soap

Photo by Robert Koehler

and most impressive in the world — have drastically shrunk, replaced by expansive VIP table sections in a last-ditch attempt to bring in revenue.

“Seoul’s club scene is not what it was back in 2012,” says Cavaille. “But that’s slowly changing again, thanks in part to places like Cakeshop.” Pute Deluxe are a staple behind the decks at Cakeshop, one of Itaewon’s longest-running underground clubs and a venue which has stoutly refused to bow to demands for endless guest lists. Soap as a club has followed suit.

“Of course at the beginning, when we were brand new, we invited people,” says Cavaille. “But on the whole, we expect attendees to pay to experience good music.”

“We don’t book artists only to bring people through the door,” he continues.

accommodating his partner’s increasingly busy celebrity schedule — Quintart was a regular guest on the now infamous “Non Summit” television show — Cavaille admits there have been benefits for the club.

“Julian’s popularity has definitely brought new customers through the door,” he says. “Although they didn’t come for the music, in a positive way this has actually allowed more people to discover the scene.”

Is Cavaille tempted to follow in his friend’s footsteps? “I’m not the face of Soap,” he laughs. “That’s not my job. I’ll stick to DJing.”

The month of June sees guest sets at Soap by Chambray, Mike Gao and Classixx. For a full schedule, visit the club website www.soapseoul.com or follow Soap on Instagram @soapseoul.

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Underneath It All Areum Park is changing the way Korean women think about lingerie, one well-fitting bra at a time Written by Rhiannon Shepherd

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© Lingerie Taxte

Photo by Robert Koehler

“You know when you just feel confident, because you know you’ve got amazing lingerie on?” smiles Areum Park, designer and CEO of Lingerie Taxte, “That’s the feeling I want women to have when they wear my designs.”

Now 28, Busan-native Park made the move to Seoul eight years ago. Although she majored in PR, Park decided to switch to textiles post-graduation and began studying at one of only two lingerie-design academies in the city.

“The first time as an adult I bought myself some underwear that made me feel great, I knew that this is what I wanted to create.”

Park’s interest in women’s fashion started through a blog she kept in her early twenties. “I wrote about many things to do with womens’ lifestyle,” she says, “From clothing, to self-image, to issues about ‘plus-

Order via the blog blog.naver.com/taxtetaster or via email taxtetaster@naver.com Follow Park on Instagram @taxtetaster

sizing’ in Korea.”

“Korean lingerie often comes as a set,” Areum explains.

“But how often are we women actually the same size on the top and the bottom?”

“It’s almost impossible to find commercially produced underwear that really fits our bodies. We’re made to think that we’re the ones shaped strangely, when actually it’s not the case at all.”

Park designs all of her items at her home-cum-studio space in Itaewon, before creating a sample to give to local manufacturers. Simple yet undeniably beautiful, they’re the kind of pieces you’ll want to keep all to yourself.

“Comfort and confidence are the most important to me,” says Park, explaining her preference for Tencel; an environmentally friendly, sustainable fabric that is super soft on the skin. She also places the labels on the outside of her designs.

Shopping

© Lingerie Taxte

It’s been two years since Park launched Taxte. Although she gains inspiration from luxury European brands like La Perla, as well as vintage underwear, Park says she wants her pieces to remain as accessible as possible.

“I want many women to be able to buy and enjoy my designs. Even if made to order, I’m not interested in hiking my prices.”

“I want wearers to feel comfortable in their own skin,” she says. “No matter their size, I want women to look at themselves and think, ‘Hey, I’m also beautiful.’”

Taxte bras are priced at KRW 38,000, and panties KRW 16,000 – 19,000. Sizes available range from A to D cup/80 – 110. Bespoke sizes are also available.

Top 5 Fashion Trends You Will Undoubtedly See This Spring Written and Photographed by Nailah @nerd_n_niceclothes

Spring is here and style is in the air. Here are the top five styles you can’t miss this season. No really, you won’t miss these!

They’re everywhere right now!

1. The floral dress

I don’t think it’s possible to walk two blocks in Seoul this spring without seeing someone in a calf-length floral dress. It’s the one piece to have this season. Floral dresses embody the feeling of spring, with vibrant patterns and flowing skirts mimicking an oh-so-cool breeze blowing through your hair.

2. Frayed raw-hem jeans

Irregular length, tattered hems because neat hems are for squares ... or circles in this case (because leg openings are circular. Get it? Bad joke?). These jeans pair well with pretty much any kind of shoe, so the trend is bound to stick around until fall, when you can pair them with a cute ankle bootie, too.

3. The slip dress/slip top

Showing a lot of skin above the waist is more of a no-no in Korea. But not to

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worry, layering is super-in right now.

Layer a solid basic under a slip dress to complete a chic, early 2000s look. Don’t feel like wearing a dress? Then a blouse version can be equally as chic!

4. Exaggerated sleeves

Big flouncy sleeves are in and designers like The Studio K know this! Long gone are the days when too-long sleeves were

rolled up to the elbow; now it’s a fashion statement for your sleeves to cascade beyond your wrists.

5. Irregular button-up blouses

I’ve seen basic blouses this year turned into high fashion by simply skewing them off-shoulder or sporting them backwards.

Whichever you choose, make sure to wear it with confidence!

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Cinema

Cinematic Glass Ceiling?

Male-dominated films remain prominent in local industry Written by Jason Bechervaise

© NEW

© Showbox

© CJ Entertainment

“The Merciless”

“The Prison”

“The Villainess”

Though there are a number of revered female directors and influential producers such as Shim Jae-myung (“JSA”) and Oh Jung-wan (“A Bittersweet Life”), the Korean film industry continues to suffer from gender inequality, both on screen and behind the camera. Film is a maledominated industry, both in Korea and overseas.

I am immensely fond of Korean actors, including the likes of Song Kang-ho and Choi Min-sik, who can transform a scene.

Actresses have a central place in Korean cinema, too, however, illustrated by their success on the festival circuit in securing acting awards. Jeon Do-yeon, Moon So-ri, Kang Soo-yeon and Kim Min-hee are such examples. Yet, it tends to be the male stars that often have a bigger box office draw, and hence the reliance on male personas to pull in viewers.

between the two leading characters, played by Jo In-Sung and Jung Woo-sung, that take center stage, leaving the actress Kim Ah-joong to the sidelines. In “The Prison,” female characters are largely non-existent, being largely set in a male prison and thus firmly focussed on the chemistry between the two leads played

by Han Suk-kyu and Kim Rae-won. “The Merciless,” also partly set in a prison, stars actress Jeon Hye-jin in a more interesting role as a senior detective, but is overshadowed by the bromance between the characters played by Sol Kyung-gu and Im Si-wan.

Similarly, despite the casting of Shim Eun-kyung, Moon So-ri, Ra Mi-ran and Ryoo Hye-young, it is the dynamics at play between the Seoul mayor, played by Choi Min-sik, and his campaign manager and lawmaker, played by Kwak Do-won, that dominate the film’s narrative. It is a shame because the supporting actresses have much to offer, and in many ways are more interesting than their male co-stars.

“V.I.P.,” “Night of 7 Years” and Ryoo Seung-wan’s blockbuster colonial era-set “Battleship Island.” There are notable exceptions, however. Jung Byoung-gil’s “The Villainess,” which bowed in Cannes last month, stars Kim Ok-bin as an assassin who becomes involved with two men. It hits screens in June. Also released in June is Bong Joon-ho’s “Okja,” which stars the 13-year-old Ahn Seo-hyun, alongside a giant animal and an A-list cast including Tilda Swinton. Bong himself is a box office draw, but it underscores how he is keen to feature both male and female actors in sizable roles going up against industry norms.

If one looks at Korea’s younger acting talent, it is actresses that tend to stand out. Yes, there are plenty of male stars such as Kim Soo-hyun and Song Joongki, but it is the female talent, in my view, that show greater potential. Park So-dam, Jeong Ha-dam, Kim Tae-ri and Kim Goeun are such examples. Both audiences and the industry need to come together to ensure they are given the screen time they deserve.

Not a great year for women in film This year, a host of films such as “The King,” “The Prison,” “The Mayor” and “The Merciless” feature male leads while female roles are largely left at the fringes, often with little in the way of autonomy.

In “The King,” it is the relationship

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Give women the screen time they deserve This is set to continue with films such as

Arts & Entertainment

TV

Citizen Producers ‘Produce 101’ sets records by leaving the decisions to the audience Written by SEOUL staff

© Mnet

Television talent shows are nothing new.

As “American Idol,” “Britain’s Got Talent” and Korea’s very own “Superstar K” have amply demonstrated, the right combination of judges, audience participation, performing talent and production value can be ratings gold. It’s human drama at its rawest.

Now in its second season, “Produce 101,” Mnet’s hit singing survival show, is topping charts. It has topped CJ E&M and Nielsen Korea’s Content Power Index, a benchmark that judges the popularity of programming based on the media and social media buzz surrounding it, for six weeks straight, making it, in theory, the most popular show in the country. Internet users have viewed clips from the second season posted on YouTube, Kakao TV, Naver TV and elsewhere over 230 million times, setting a record.

“Produce 101” follows a format familiar to fans of the survival genre. Some 101 trainees – women during the first season, men in the second – from several dozen Korean entertainment companies compete to be selected to a newly created boy band.

Just 11 slots are available. Once composed,

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the new band will debut under CJ E&M’s record label.

What sets “Produce 101” apart, however, is it’s complete reliance on the audience. While conventional talent shows commonly employ scoring systems that depend on scores from the judges and votes from the audience. “Produce 101,” on the other hand, has no judges. The audience are, quite literally, the producers.

They decide everything, from the new band’s members, of course, to its name and songs. Established stars like pop singer BoA and support staff participate, but as mentors, trainers and messengers, not as decision makers. The first season produced the girl band I.O.I., which disbanded in January, but not before winning the Best New Artist award at the Melon Asian Music Awards and the Rookie Artist of the Year award at the Golden Disk Awards.

K-pop from the inside out By making you, the audience, the producers, “Produce 101” aims to reveal the blood, sweat and tears that go into making a K-pop star. “Countless pop groups debut over the course of a year, but

only two or three of them receive public recognition,” explains the production team. “We wish to capture the trainees’ hard work to realize their dreams of becoming the top pop star in the country, or even a global pop star, regardless of the size of their entertainment company.”

To be sure, audiences get to see the effort, energy and determination required to become a pop star. At the same time, it has also shed light on less savory aspects of society. Lookism has reared its ugly head, so to speak, with good lookingbut-less talented contestants doing better and more homely contestants taking criticism, particularly online. The show has also given audiences a front-row seat to the country’s hyper-competitive society. Trainees transform from happy, confident individuals to quivering messes before our very eyes. The show’s focus on rankings doesn’t help. The Korea Times quotes a local Internet user, “The level of competition-bound pressure has increased from the first season. I am worried about the trainees who will only become obsessed with the rankings and numbers in the end.”

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Music

Born In New York, Made In Seoul Korea’s first foreign boy band, EXP EDITION, debuts Written by Kristina Manente

© IMMABB Co., Ltd

When I walk in to interview K-pop group EXP EDITION, they are having a Korean lesson; notebooks are out, notes scrawled, and a patient Korean teacher was commending them for their work.

Immediately my preconceived notions of the all-foreign boy band had been shattered. It was a very pleasant surprise.

Consisting of members Šime, Frankie, Hunter and Koki, EXP EDITION started as a thesis project at Columbia University.

Now, however, it’s taken a life of its own and gone beyond the “what ifs” of making a non-Korean KPOP boy band and into something far more serious.

Arriving in Seoul last August, they started training immediately, and they did it Korean style – dance practice, vocal lessons, Korean lessons and more.

They lived in dormitories and pulled the infamous eighteen hour days of idol trainees. For months they did this under the radar, finally debuting their efforts over half a year later with their first single,

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the feel-good “Feels Like This,” to a very curious Korean audience. “This girl just did a double-take and she’s was just so… intrigued and confused.” Croatian born Šime recalls (Hunter and Frankie are American, Koki is Japanese-American).

There’s a boyish enthusiasm to EXP EDITION one can’t help but find attractive. As they talk about their experiences so far here in Seoul, I found myself admiring their journey. They count themselves lucky, knowing that they are getting opportunities that other rookie groups don’t get. Now, they’re performing on the same stages as EXID, Monsta X and Pristin. They say it’s been a humbling experience, and the idols are “some of the kindest, most supportive people.”

The media attention has been enormous for EXP EDITION, though not all of it has been positive.

They explain that most of the negative feedback has, in fact, been from international K-pop fans. “[The Koreans]

have been very welcoming to us.” Šime explains. And the statement holds up.

The comments on their Naver video from Korean netizens are overwhelmingly positive and encouraging. Even on YouTube, commenters are starting to sway; if anything, it’s started a conversation.

Hunter claims that’s a good thing: “It’s a testimony to the Korean industry... it’s now such a huge global community.”

They all came into K-pop in different ways. Šime watched Korean horror movies back in Croatia, Hunter sang in noraebang in Koreatown in New York, Frankie danced to K-pop songs at Broadway Dance Center, and Koki was introduced by BIGBANG’s “Haru Haru.”

When asked why they’re doing this, they give an answer of conviction. They’re serious about this. “I loved everything I was doing, everything I was learning.” Šime says of when they first started out, “We approach this very seriously; we left our lives behind in the States.”

Plenty of groups have Chinese, Thai, Japanese and Indonesian members. Where does EXP EDITION fit in? Where do nonAsians fit in? “Fans write to us now about how inspired they are,” Hunter explains.

“How they always wanted to be a K-pop star but felt they never could because of their ethnicity. Now they feel they can.”

“Don’t put boundaries on music.” He adds. Words to think on. They might change some minds yet and make their mark on K-pop history.

Find EXP EDITION at www.youtube.com/EXPEDITIONTV cafe.daum.net/EXP-EDITION www.instagram.com/expedition.official www.facebook.com/expedition.immabb

Arts & Entertainment

Books

Third Person Random Bae Suah’s ‘Nowhere to Be Found’ is a study in ennui and social tension Written by Charles Montgomery

How a reader reacts to Bae Suah’s novelette “Nowhere to Be Found” can likely be guessed by how they react to passages like, “Cheolsu, I will eat your chicken when that day comes. I will gladly become your toilet. When I can, for once in my life, for a brief moment, become ardently pure.” (p.

80; All citations are from the Kindle Edition.) The passage is representative of Bae writing “hot,” something she does to insert comments, comparisons and contrasts to the longer “cold” passages she uses to portray the bleakness of modern Korean life, particularly for young women. By using long, slow, chilly buildups to painful explosions, Bae draws a picture of unbearable social strain suffered by those who feel set adrift by Korean society. Long periods of ennui or low level discomfort are punctuated by sudden, violent outbursts that seldom bring a real climax or conclusion to anything; instead they are merely mile-markers on the way to the next cycle.

Bae makes this endless oscillation fascinating by a form of repetition in which words and symbols do not always hold meaning across instances. In the chicken/toilet outburst, for instance, Bae reimagines a previous scene by altering the meanings of its words and re-casting a previous physical incarnation of a cooked chicken and a latrine into a bitter and sudden symbolic lament of her position. Bae’s narrator, who is predictably nameless, fits neatly into a recent category of female narrator, the alienated observer who can only break through to deeper feeling through violence, be it psychic, physical or sexual.

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These narrators feel trapped in modern Korean society – bounded on all sides by expectations, but seeing no advantage, and perhaps no way, to fulfilling them.

While these themes have also been explored in Bae’s “Highway With Green Apples,” Kim Aeran’s “Christmas Specials,” and Kim Mi-Wol’s “Guide to Seoul Cave,” in this work they are imbued with a particular tension that is ensnaring.

Aside from ennui, a repeating motif is the cold. In the epic scene that leads up to the narrator’s outburst to Cheolsu, her “boyfriend” in the military about whom she is predictably chilly, she suffers through an epic journey featuring a frigid landscape, a freezing latrine and a chicken cooked by Cheolsu’s mother that slowly transforms into a “chicken carcass looking like the body of a woman frozen to death in Siberia.” (p. 63).

This cycle of grayness and eruption is not the worst fate that Bae can conjure up. The unnamed narrator’s final comment is her bleakest as, in a moment of self-erasure, she claims to have escaped the wheel, concluding, “And that is how I became an absolutely meaningless thing and survived time” (p. 103).

Nowhere to Be Found is translated by Sora Kim-Russell, who does a fine job.

As a writer, she naturally writes graceful prose. When Kim-Russell translates, “Time pushes away that which is intended, rejects that which is rejected, forgets that which is sung about, and is filled with that which it turns its eyes from” (p. 93), the rhythm and parallel structure may well be determined from the original text, but they also sparkle in English.

© Amazon

“Nowhere to Be Found” can be found in paperback and on Kindle. If a reader likes this work, “Highway with Green Apples,” “A Greater Music” and “Recitation” are currently available, with “North Station” hitting bookstores at the end of this year.

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Concerts, Festivals and More VOGUE: LIKE A PAINTING Hangaram Art Museum, Seoul Arts Center Jun. 24-Oct. 7 TBA T. 02-332-8011 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역(Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

“Vogue: Like a Painting” explores anew the relationship between fashion photography and classic painting through carefully selected images from renowned fashion magazine Vogue’s archive. Some of the world’s top fashion photographers, including Steven Meisel, Peter Lindbergh and Paolo Roversi, find inspiration in the works of the masters of the past, including the Spanish Golden Age, Flemish portraits and impressionist landscapes.

It’s an opportunity to look at the art of the past in a very modern way. © Camilla Akrans

© Sangwoo Ko

STORYTELLING STREET PERFORMANCE AT CHEONGGYECHEON: “FLY, ISHIMI”

#SELFIE - THE PEOPLE WHO TAKE PICTURE BY THEMSELVES

Every Weekend of June 3rd - July 16th , 2017 | Gwangtong Bridge of Cheonggyecheon | T. 120

Thru Aug. 4 | Savina Museum of Contemporary Art Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 1), Exit 3 | KRW 5,000 | T. 02-736-4371

Theatre Company SaniNeomeo brings its modern rendition of the traditional puppet play “Fly, Ishimi” to the Cheonggyecheon Stream, delighting audiences with free weekend performances. “Fly Ishimi” hits on the environmental issues that plagued the Cheonggyecheon throughout its history. The performance is part of Seoul City’s “Seoul Time Traveler” program, a series of storytelling performances that aim to give people a better sense of the city’s history. Theatre Company SaniNeomeo infuses traditional dramatic arts with modern elements.

In the past, we searched for self in self-portraits, diaries and autobiographies. Nowadays, we reveal ourselves through mobile media, including through the ubiquitous “selfie.” In this show, we look at the work of 10 artists, including Koh Sang-woo, Kim GaRam and Amalia Ulman. The multi-media exhibit examines the selfie phenomenon through analysis of objective data, explores the artists’ spaces, looks at the relationship between seeing and showing, and more. It also experiments with some new approaches, including 3D selfies using 3D scanners and printers.

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Previews

© Jacques Henri Latigue

JACQUES HENRI LARTIGUE: LA BELLE FRANCE Thru Aug. 15 | KT&G Sangsang Madang | Not far from Hongik University Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 9 | KRW 12,000 | T. 02-330-6200

“Jacques Henri Lartigue: La Belle France” is the fourth show in KT&G Sangsang Madang’s series on master artists of the 20th century. With the cooperation of the La Donation Jacques Henri Lartigue and Galerie Alain Gutharc and sponsorship of the French Embassy in Korea, the exhibit looks at 20th century France through the lens of one of history’s greatest photographers. As the title of the exhibit suggests, the show provides a window into the beautiful France of old – the lush scenery, the lives of the rich and trendy, the beautiful, carefree women – in black and white, Autochrome and vintage prints.

SEOUL DRUM FESTIVAL 2017 Gyeonghuigung Palace Jun. 2-3 Free www.seouldrum.go.kr Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 7 or 8

Seoul Drum Festival 2017 will feature some of the world’s top percussion artists, including KJ Sawka, one of the hottest electronic drummers; Milos Meier, a rock drumming sensation; Luke Holland, a superstar in the global drumming community; and Robert Searight, an influential Grammy Award-winning artist and producer.

Korean drummer Lee Sang-min, Choi Hyun-jin Band, B-boy team Drifterz Crew and special guest DJ KOO will also take the stage. Some of the participants will be hosting master classes as well. The citizen drum contest, “The Drummer,” will provide a space for citizens to show off their drumming skills this year.

Magazine

© Michiel Hendryckx

PHILIPPE HERREWEGHE & THE ORCHESTRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Jun. 17 | Seoul Arts Center | Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429. | KRW 40,000-180,000 | T. 1577-5266

The Orchestre des Champs-Elysees specializes in music written from the mid-18th century to the early 20th century, played on period instruments. In this performance, the orchestra will perform Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5 in C minor and Symphony No. 7 in A Major. Principle director Philippe Herreweghe is the recipient of many European awards. The Guardian wrote about the orchestra, “The orchestra has developed into a beautifully blended body of musicians, ideal for Herreweghe’s meticulously researched interpretations.”

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MUSICAL MATA HARI Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Jun. 16-Aug. 6 KRW 50,000-140,000 T. 02-399-1000 Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 5), Exit 1 or 8

Ock Joo-hyun, Cha Ji-yeon, Um Ki-jun and Leo lead a star-studded cast in this return performance of the hit 2016 musical. Featuring a book by Ivan Mechell, lyrics by Jack Murphy and music by Frank Wildhorn, Mata Hari tells the story of the eponymous Dutch dancer, courtesan and all-round femme fatale, who was executed by the French as a German spy during World War I. It focuses on her relationships with two French officers and the tragic consequences that resulted from them. The production, a fusion of Korean and Broadway talent, features spectacular set designs, including lavish recreations of Paris’s Moulin Rouge.

ORIGINAL MUSICAL, CHICAGO

TEA WORLD FESTIVAL 2017

Thru Jul. 23 | BLUE SQUARE Samsung Electronics Hall | Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6), Exit 2 or 3 | KRW 40,000-140,000 | T. 1544-1555

Jun. 8-11 | COEX, Hall C | Samseong Station 삼성역 (Line 2), Exit 5 or 6 KRW 5,000 | www.teanews.com

Terra C. Macleod, Dylis Croman, Roz Ryan and the rest of the original cast of “Chicago” return to Korea. Set in the roaring “jazz hot” ’20s, Chicago tells the story of two rival vaudevillian murderesses locked up in Cook County Jail. Nightclub star Velma’s serving time for killing her husband and sister after finding the two in bed together. Driven chorus girl Roxie’s been tossed in the joint for bumping off the lover she’s been cheating on her husband with. Velma enlists the help of prison matron Mama Morton and slickest lawyer Billy Flynn, who turn Velma’s incarceration into a murder-of-the-week media frenzy.

But Roxie’s got some of her own tricks up her sleeve…

The Tea World Festival promotes tea drinking and the tea industry in a nation where coffee is king. First held in 2003, it is the largest tea expo in the country – all your favorite tea producing regions in Korea will be there. Among the products on display are tea wares and instruments, including ceramics, tea pots and tablecloths; items made with green tea, including medicines and cosmetics; and, of course, tea itself, in its green, oolong and black varieties.

Tea-related music, art and literature will be on display, too.

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Previews

「SHINHAN Global S Bank」

Mobile-based Overseas Remittance Event Easier Financial Transactions in Korea!

More Convenient Overseas Remittance!

Event Period

April 10, 2017 - July 31, 2017

EVENT 1

Global S Bank Overseas Remittance Try-out Event Event Details Save on transaction fees!

During this event period, no fees will be charged for overseas remittance or transactions which are less than $2,000 USD via Global S Bank App! * Purpose of remittance : Salary remittance by international customers Telegram charge and MoneyGram fees still to be charged

EVENT 2

HUNMINJEONGEUM AND NANJUNG ILGI: LOOK, AGAIN

Lucky Draw Event for Customers Using Mobile Overseas Remittance Enjoy convenient and easy overseas remittance with your native language service and a chance to be the winner of our the event!

Announcement August 21, 2017

Dongdaemun Design Plaza Thru Oct. 22 KRW 10,000 T. 1644-1328 Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station 동대문역사문화공원역 (Line 2, 4, 5), Exit 1

This is the world’s first exhibition with two UNESCO Memories of the World, Hunminjeongeum Haeryebon and Nanjung Ilgi. It has been planned based on the structure of Gwanghwamun Square, where the statues of two important figures of Korean history reside.

Gwanghwamun Square is an important place that has borne witness to major events throughout Korean history, where the voices of the people still reverberate.

It is also where two statutes of great Korean figures diligently safeguard the country’s history: King Sejong and Admiral Yi Sun-sin. Koreans have grown up listening to stories about these two men, but many are surprised to find that they actually know very little about them. We only remember them in association with abstract concepts, such as a “sage king,” “great hero,” “creation” and “victory.”

Event Details All customers using our overseas remittance service via 「Global S Bank」 will automatically qualify for the event Gift 1st prize – Round trip flight ticket to one’s home country (1 million KRW for 1 customer)

2nd prize – Gift Card (300,000 KRW for 5 customers) 3rd prize – Gift Certificate (50,000 KRW for 10 customers) • For flight ticket, the winner can choose between travel vouchers of Hana Tour or Mode Tour.

• Gift cards will be gift cards of Shinhan Card.

• For gift certificates, the winner can choose between Home Plus and E-Mart gift certificates.

•List of winner will be posted on website of Shinhan Bank. (www.shinhan.com) •Taxes and duties from the gift of the lucky draw event will be paid by the bank.

•For more information, visit the website or contact branch of the bank.

•If it is not possible to confirm your identity or process gift delivery and taxes and duties payment, due to incorrect contact information, the prize you win may be cancelled.

Foreign Language Call Center Magazine

1577-8380

[Overseas]

+82-2-3449-8380

[OPEN] Monday ~ Friday / 9am ~ 6pm

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Expat Buzz SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: GWANAKSAN! STUNNING NIGHT HIKE! Jun. 1 Mt. Gwanaksan, Seoul

SEOUL SKETCH

Heading to the Hagwon Illustrated and written by Louis Barnard

Mt. Gwanaksan is good to get great views of the Gangnam area. Come and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and stunning view with crisp, refreshing air.

KRW 5,000 for first-time participants www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: INDIGO DYE WORKSHOP Jun. 1 Near Anguk Station Participate in this hands-on workshop and finish with an indigodyed handkerchief, scarf or t-shirt.

Using tying and folding techniques you can obtain a pattern or create a free form tie-dye effect. You will dip your piece into a dye bath to create blue shades ranging from the deepest night blue to a soft subtle light blue. And no worries, gloves are provided so you won’t dye your hands blue!

KRW 10,000 handkerchief, KRW 30,000 T-shirt, KRW 35,000 silk scarf (SIWA members only) siwapage.com

RASKB: A WALK THROUGH YONGSAN: THE COMPLICATIONS OF URBAN RENEWAL Jun. 3 Yongsan area, Seoul We will walk all the way around the empty Yongsan Railyard, the site of the failed Yongsan Dream Hub project, and visit numerous urban renewal sites along the way.

KRW 20,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

BASS: HANGANG ECO PARK SEONYUDO ISLAND Jun. 3 Seonyudo Park Join the British Association of Seoul for a trip to the historical and scenic Seonyudo Park in the Hangang River.

Free (BASS members only) www.britishseoul.com

It’s 5 p.m. on a Friday afternoon in Samcheong-dong. A group of tired and weary schoolboys gather at a patbingsu café in their frazzled brown uniforms to share a dessert. When the large bowl of shaved ice mixed with fruit, ice cream, chocolate and red beans arrives, moods are lifted as the boys celebrate with excited cheers.

Spoons are quickly passed around, and witless chatter is met with happy slurps from the dessert bowl. After a while, one boy checks his phone and points at the time. There is a rush to finish the last remnants of the sweet, gooey mixture and a sigh when the empty bowl is taken back to the kitchen. With grunts and sluggish movements, they get up, harness themselves with their heavy backpacks, and head towards their hagwon to continue their studies for the day.

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SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: MT. GODAESAN, CLOSEST MOUNTAIN TO NORTH KOREA AND HANTANGANG RIVER RAFTING Jun. 3 Yeoncheon, Gyeonggi-do We will have a very interesting and exciting hiking trip to the mountain

Expat Buzz

that is closest to North Korea, from which summit one can command a rare bird’s-eye view of the other side of the DMZ. KRW 28,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA SOCIAL: SPRING LUNCH 2017 Jun. 7 Zest restaurant at Conrad Seoul Say farewell for the summer at SIWA’s annual Spring lunch at the Zest restaurant at Conrad Seoul.

Enjoy friends, food, wine and great raffle prizes.

Current SIWA Members will enjoy the buffet for KRW 65,000 (regular value KRW 75,000). Non-members pay a KRW 10,000 surcharge to go toward the SIWA Welfare Fund. siwapage.com

RASKB: A MERE SCRAP OF PAPER: THE 1882 KOREAN-AMERICAN TREATY, SYNGMAN RHEE, AND THE DIVISION OF KOREA Jun. 7 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace David P. Fields, a Fulbright scholar at Yonsei University, will explain how Syngman Rhee used the obscure 1882 Korean-American Treaty to transform Korea into a place a symbolic importance to Americans at two critical junctions, the debate over the Versailles Treaty in 1919 and the summer of 1945 when the Allies were constructing a new world order in the wake of World War II. Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: MT. BUGAKSAN, KIM SINJO TRAIL Jun. 8 Seoul We will start to walk along the Seoul Fortress and walk along the so-called Kim Sin-jo Trail. This trail passes through surprisingly deep forest, so it is calm and silent, as if it were somewhere outside of Seoul.

KRW 5,000 for first-time participants www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: JOSEON ROYAL TOMBS AND RITUALS Jun. 10 Seonjeongneung, Gangnam Tour Seonjeongneung, a tranquil, park-like setting in Gangnam.

The royal tombs of Joseon King Seongjong, Queen Jeonghyun and King Joongjong are located here.

Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members siwapage.com

BASS: SEONJEONGNEUNG ROYAL TOMB AND JONGMYOJAERAEK

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DANCE ILMOO Jun. 10 Seonjeongneung Our friends at the Korea Heritage Society have very kindly invited BASS members to participate in three cultural excursions during 2017. The second excursion will be to Seonjeongreung Royal Tomb and will include a Concert of the Jongmyojaeraek dance Ilmoo.

Free (BASS members only) www.britishseoul.com

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: SWEET SUMMER DELIGHT

THE SEOUL EXPAT GLOBAL MEETUP GROUP: Jun. 10 Mungyeong, Gyeongsangbuk-do Have you heard of Mungyeong in Gyeongsangbuk-do? It’s a city for adventurous travelers. Let’s go hiking, enjoy the stunning mountain scenery, and visit famous K-drama filming locations. You can also choose to visit Omija (Five Different Flavor Berries) Winery.

KRW 40,700 www.meetup.com/globalexpats

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: CANOEING & HIKING, CHUNCHEON DAKGALBI, SOYANG LAKE FERRY, CHEONGPYEONGSA TEMPLE Jun. 10 Chuncheon, Gangwon-do We will go on a daytrip of peaceful canoeing and hiking in Chuncheon.

KRW 45,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: LOTTE WORLD AQUARIUM Jun. 15 The aquarium is fun for all ages! This is something easy to do indoors all year round despite all the weather changes in Seoul. The Lotte World Aquarium is the largest indoor aquarium in Korea, housing 55,000 different marine forms of 650 different species.

Adult KRW 29,000, Teenager KRW 27,000, Child KRW 25,000 siwapage.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: MYSTERIOUS ULLEUNG­DO ISLAND, DOKDO ISLAND Jun. 16 Uleungdo, Gyeongsangbukdo We will take you to Ulleungdo, a most exotic island with a Jurassic Park atmosphere and crystal clear, turquoise water.

KRW 235,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

SIWA: HIKING TO SEUNGGASA IN BUKHANSAN Jun. 16 Bukhansan National Park

Lobby Lounge Bar, located on the 41st floor of the Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel, is presenting a new dessert promotion, “Sweet Summer Delight,” which combines summer fruits with artistic desserts, from May 13 to Aug. 31.

Enjoy a combination of sweet desserts, made with fresh summer fruits, and snacks such as rice balls and tteokbokki, unlimited for two hours with coffee or tea at Lobby Lounge Bar this summer. During this promotion, guests can also dive into a mini-bingsu, one of Korea’s most loved summer desserts, by customizing toppings including watermelons, pineapples, red beans, injeolmi and condensed milk and also make their own bingsu. Dessert items served at “Sweet Summer Delight” include passion fruit white chocolate cake, tropical tartlet, rainbow train cake, apple jelly with lime mousse, bumble bee honey mousse with blueberry, rose panna cotta decorated with dragon fruit, kiwi and strawberry, cherry and pistachio cream cranberry pound cake, tropical rainbow jelly, snacks and bingsu. The welcome drink “Mangorange” will delight mouths before starting the dessert buffet, and guests can choose from coffee, tea or tea cocktail.

“Sweet Summer Delight” is available on weekends and public holidays at the Lobby Lounge Bar on the 41st floor, and the price is KRW 29,700 (inclusive of tax).

Seeing the temple involves climbing past the steep road, up several stone stairways. It is worth the exertion. The nearly 5-meter Goryeo Dynasty sitting Buddha carving is spectacular, as are the views of Seoul from here. After we enjoy the views, 20 more minutes of hiking will take us near the historic Bibong Peak. We will continue up to that peak or you can rest there.

Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members siwapage.com

RASKB: A WALK THROUGH LOWER SEOCHON: TONGUIDONG TO SAJIKDAN Jun. 17

Yongsan area, Seoul In this excursion, we will explore part of the Seochon (West Village) neighborhood of Seoul that sits between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Mt. Inwangsan.

KRW 20,000 for members, KRW 25,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

SEOUL HIKING NATURE GROUP: ACHIMGARI Jun. 24 Achimgari, Gangwon-do We will hike Achimgari, an untouched valley deep inside Gangwon-do. “Achim” means morning and only in the morning does the sun shine upon this valley because it is so deep. Hence, this valley and its waters are amazingly clear.

KRW 32,000 www.meetup.com/ seoulhikingnaturegroup

RASKB: RE-VISITING THE 1937 DEPORTATION OF ETHNIC KOREANS TO CENTRAL ASIA: 80 YEARS OF SURVIVAL AND PROSPERING THROUGH THE ORDEAL Jun. 27 Second floor Residents’ Lounge, Somerset Palace Beijing-based researcher and documentary storyteller Victoria Kim, author of “Lost and Found in Uzbekistan: The Korean Story,” will discuss the changing narrative of the 1937 deportation and focus on

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MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON

MILLENNIUM SEOUL HILTON: SPOTLIGHT ON FILIPINO CUISINE AT CAFÉ 395

Millennium Seoul Hilton’s flagship buffet and all-daydining restaurant, Café 395, will feature the cuisine of the Philippines prepared by Filipina celebrity chef Michelle Adrilliana. This special showcase will be held from June 8 to the 13, so don’t hesitate to try out how exciting and delicious Filipino cuisine can be.

In addition to Café 395’s extensive buffet, Filipino favorites will also be featured to tickle your taste buds and

introduce you to the sunny archipelago’s tasty foods.

Guest chef Michelle Adrilliana is renowned in the Philippines for her culinary prowess. Not only is she a chef and restaurant consultant, Chef Adrilliana also acts a brand ambassador and Filipino cuisine advocate.

Prior to visiting Seoul for this event, Chef Adrilliana has been in Guangzhou in China, Sydney in Australia, and Doha in Qatar promoting the cuisine of her home country.

Though not as well-known as its Asian counterparts, the cuisine of the Philippines has many influences from Malaysia, Spain, China and India because of its many years of colonization as well as its strategic location in the Asian-Pacific Rim, making the cuisine as varied as it is delicious. Like in most Asian countries, rice is the staple of the Filipino diet, which is accompanied by boldly flavored dishes.

Café 395 introduced the market to table concept to buffet fine dining. Utilizing only the freshest premium ingredients in various action stations located throughout the restaurant, Café 395 welcomes diners to a vibrant dining experience that delivers vibrant foods prepared just the way you want.

Café 395’s buffet is priced at KRW 94,000 per person for lunch and KRW 99,000 for dinner.

For reservations or enquiries, please call Café 395 at (02) 317-3062. Prices quoted above are already inclusive of tax and service.

the process of re-definition of the Korean identity currently taking place across Central Asia.

Free for members, KRW 10,000 for non-members www.raskb.com

RASKB: VISIT TO BAEKDUSAN, DANDONG AND SHENYANG Jun. 30-Jul. 5 Northern China The RASKB will explore northern China, including the sacred volcano Mt. Baekdusan and its beautiful crate lake, the border town of Dandong and the old Manchu capital of Shenyang.

KRW 1,359,000 www.raskb.com –––––––––––––––––––––––––– REGULAR EVENTS ––––––––––––––––––––––––––

SEOUL TOASTMASTERS Every Thursday 7:15pm Jongno We won’t teach you to make great toast. But if you want to learn to speak in front of people and get over your fear of public speaking, consider Seoul Toastmasters.

Jonggak Station (Line 1) Exit 10, TOZ study center KRW 6,000 for all attendees www.seoultm.org

LEARN CERAMICS WITH SARAH’ MICS

Want to learn the art of ceramics?

Ceramic designer and former Emirates flight attendant Sarah Kang offers a full range of classes for adults and children, including introductory workshops, in English.

Basic classes include the “wheel and hand-building” class and kids pottery class. Regular classes meet once or twice a week, while oneday classes are held every Saturday.

You will learn the skills to produce your own functional or artistic ceramics. Reservation required.

KRW 70,000 (one-day class) T. 010-9515-3180

DUTCH COFFEE MAKER 탐앤탐스 더 칼립소 더치커피 메이커

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Expat Buzz

SEOUL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY

The Seoul Shakespeare Company is the city’s only English-language theater company devoted entirely to performing Shakespeare’s works.

See their website for audition and show information. www.seoulshakespearecompany. org

THEATRE AMOEBA

Theatre Amoeba is an international physical theater project created in 2002. Amoeba’s ambition is to create, educate and exchange through intercultural performances and rigorous workshops around the planet. www.theatreamoeba.org

SELF-STUDY KOREAN CLASSES Every Tuesday at 4 PM You Are Here Café Bring your Korean books and any questions you may have to this café in Hongdae every Tuesday. A teacher from talktomeinkorean. com will be present to provide free assistance as you practice your fluency and ask questions. Talk to Me in Korean suggests that you RSVP before attending, as space is limited.

Free Hongik University Station 홍대입구역 (Line 2), Exit 3 www.talktomeinkorean.com

WEDNESDAY COMEDY NIGHT Every Wednesday Tony’s Aussie Bar and Bistro Ever thought about taking your humor to the next level and trying stand-up? Tony’s Bar has a supportive and encouraging crowd that makes it the perfect atmosphere to give performing a try. With its limited space and comedian fan base, Tony’s is always filled with people who know what it feels like to try to make a room of people laugh.

Free www.facebook.com/pages/TonysAussie-Bar-Bistro/

Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 1

MAGPIE BREWERY CLASSES Offered monthly Magpie Brew Co. in Gyeongnidan and Hongdae Learn how to brew your own beer while acquiring some history and insight into what makes this beverage so tasty. Participants can choose to take just one introductory class or take the fullmonth course, which includes four classes.

KRW 50,000-180,000 www.magpiebrewing.com

MAKGEOLLI MAMAS & PAPAS Regular monthly meetings Throughout Seoul Makgeolli Mamas & Papas seeks to build a community for those interested in Korea’s makgeolli culture. This means home-brewing resources, bar information and regular meetings. mmpkorea.wordpress.com

BREW POTLUCK Every first Saturday Seoul Homebrew, Itaewon An opportunity for brewers in Korea to share some beer and chat about brewing. Let the Seoul Homebrew Club know if you are interested in attending. Bring two or three bottles of your own brew to share.

Free www.seoulhomebrew.com Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 4

TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS SATURDAYS Saturdays at 4 p.m.

National Gugak Center Each month, the National Gugak Center will present a collection of shows that display the beauty and

diversity of Korean performing arts.

Concerts will specifically feature dance and/or music, with a total of 50 performances this year. www.visitseoul.net KRW 10,000 Nambu Terminal Station 남부터미널 역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to bus No. 4429 and get off at National Gugak Center.

VOLUNTEERING AT ANGEL HOUSE First Saturday of the month, 1:30-7 p.m.

Angel House Angel House is a home for disabled individuals in need of round-theclock care. The facility depends on the help of volunteers, and a monthly program is in place to allow people to help out just by giving up an afternoon of their month.

KRW 10,000 for donation (and a meal) Meeting point: Yeonsinnae Station 연신내역 ( (Line 3 or 6), Exit 3

WORDSMITHS Every second Sunday of the month, 6-9 p.m.

JSA/DMZ COMBINED TOUR Every Tuesday to Friday DMZ, near North Korea This journey takes you closer to North Korea than most people will ever get. On the trip you will visit the JSA security force camp, Peace House, Freedom House, the Military Armistice Commission building, the Bridge of No Return and the site of the ax-murder incident at Panmungak, as well as the Third Infiltration Tunnel, Dorasan Observatory, Dorasan Train Station and Imjingak.

KRW 93,000 www.adventurekorea.com Euljiro 1-ga Station 을지로입구역 (Line 2), Exit 1

BULL & BARREL OPEN MIC Thursdays, 9 p.m.

Bull & Barrel, Itaewon The organizers invite the audience to enjoy the musings of “Seoul’s best talent” at the regular event hosted by DJ iDub. Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 1

Southside Parlor, Yongsan Check out Wordsmiths, where spoken word and live music collide.

Wordsmiths is the only event in Seoul that focuses on spoken-word poetry.

Free www.facebook.com/ SouthsideParlor Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2

ITAEWON JAM NIGHT Every Thursday Livewire, Itaewon A weekly live jam session that anyone can get involved in. Sign up on the Facebook page to book a slot for your act.

Free www.facebook.com/ itaewonjamnight Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3

Want to increase your confidence at speech-giving? Or learn the correct way to toast? Join the Itaewon Toastmasters to practice speaking in public and to listen to the words of others.

Free for first-timers, KRW 2,000 for regular members www.itaewontm.org Samgakji Station 삼각지역 (Line 4 or 6), Exit 10

CAPOEIRA CLASSES Weekday evenings Jongno Training in the Afro-Brazilian art of Capoeira can create a healthy and active lifestyle. Although the sport is described as challenging, its mix of philosophy, dancing, fighting, culture, music and acrobatics makes participating worthwhile.

KRW 150,000 one-month trial membership T: 010.9090.9183, www.cdoseoul. com/ Jonggak Station 종각역 (Line 1), Exit 9

PHILLIES PUB QUIZ Every Wednesday, 9 p.m.

Phillies, Haebangchon

REGULAR LIFE DRAWING CLASSES Fridays, 7:30-9:30 p.m.

Saturdays, 6-8 p.m.

Jankura Artspace Tips and basic instruction can be provided for anyone in need, but this is mostly an open session for people to practice drawing and painting from the life model. Most nights are nude, but they also have special costumed drawing sessions, which are a lot of fun.

KRW 10,000 T. 010-6227-4244, jankuraseoul.com Itaewon Station 이태원역 (Line 6), Exit 3

ITAEWON TOASTMASTERS Every Sunday

Samgakji

Get ready to win one of a variety of prizes at Phillies’ weekly pub quiz in the expat village of HBC. Quizmasters vary to keep things interesting.

Free Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2

GET FUNKED Every Friday, 9 p.m.

Fix Bar, Haebangchon A brand new funk, soul and oldschool dance party at cozy bar Fix in Haebangchon.

Noksapyeong Station 녹사평역 (Line 6), Exit 2

SATURDAY MEDITATION SESSIONS Every Saturday,

‘Hair in its Natural State’

Quno Hair

served as Art Director at London’s renowned Rush Salon and nominated by the Guardian for ‘Best Hairdresser’ EXPAT BUZZ Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm.

Magic Straight & Treatment Highlight &Lowlight...etc English Spoken

Gangnam/ Apgujeong Branch 02-549-0335 www.qunohair.com www.hairandjoy.com

HAIR & JOY

3F, 168-3, Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul

Lotte Cinema (8F) UNIQLO (1F)

coco bruni About Me

NH Bank

Exit 8, Hongik Stn., Line 2

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For more info, call Johnny 69

Phone : 02-363-4253 Mobile : 010-5586-0243

PIERRE CIGAR

RHYTHM AND COMPOSURE Cigar importer Pierre Cohen-Aknine extols the virtue of the leaf

“Cigars are one of the few things that you can bring into your life that give you a rhythm, a tempo. It makes you dedicate time to smoke, it makes you arrange your day to give you that sort of time. It obliges you to connect with things you that like.

You’re not overwhelmed by your work.”

Pierre Cohen-Aknine, the president of Pierre Ltd., Korea’s exclusive importer of products from Habanos S.A., sits at his desk, blue smoke spiraling towards the ceiling from the cigar in his hand. Pierre, who introduced Korea to Cuban cigars in 1994, clearly loves what he’s selling. “It’s a gentleman’s product,” he says. “The product is very exquisite, if you know how it’s made and the possibility of making a bad cigar.

Dealing with the blend, dealing with leaves … everything in the chain, from putting the seeds into the ground in August to

harvesting and making the cigar with three fermentations, plus nurturing, blending, everything can go wrong. Aging liquor is way easier.”

To give Seoul’s cigar aficionados a space of their own, Pierre opened Seoul Cigar Club on the southern slopes of Mt. Namsan in 2002. What started out as a simple office grew into a place for lovers of the leaf to come and enjoy a good smoke, complete with a walk-in humidor, plush seating and Cuban art on the walls. Visitors can choose from 35 Habanos S.A. brands, including legendary brands Cohiba, Montecristo and Romeo y Julieta. With nothing but a tiny logo to mark the spot, it’s speakeasy-esque in its discretion and comfort.

Pierre came to Korea in 1981 with the French national service, working at the French embassy. With a flair for business –

10:30 a.m.-noon

7 p.m.

Eundeok Cultural Center

Mapo District

Join the One Circle Community for their free weekly meditation sessions.

T. 010-2744-4308 Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 3

Give time, not money, to charity by volunteer teaching English with Giving Back Korea to underprivileged children. Sign up on the Facebook group to arrange your first class. www.facebook.com/groups/ givingbackkorea Mapo-gu Office Station 마포구청역 (Line 6), Exit 8

GIVING BACK: WEDNESDAY VOLUNTEER TEACHING Every Wednesday,

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Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

STAND UP SEOUL First Thursday of every month, 9 p.m.

Rocky Mountain Tavern Korea’s first and longest-running English-speaking comedy room with Korea’s funniest expats! www.facebook.com/groups/ standupseoul, standupseoul@ gmail.com

SEOUL INTERNATIONAL HIKERS CLUB

“I love business as art,” he says – he soon got into Korea’s burgeoning textile industry. By 1989, he was exporting USD 37 million in clothing with 100 brands. “I was working 25 hours a day, but I loved it.”

In the early 1990s, with changing business conditions creating problems for textile exporters, Pierre switched to imports.

Jumping into duty free, he soon found himself representing 20 brands, including Hugo Boss. In 1994, he met representatives of Habanos S.A. during a meeting of duty free insiders in Cannes. They needed a Korea representative. I’d never smoked in my life.

I introduced myself, and they said yes.”

Pierre worked hard to acquaint himself with the product. Taking up cigar smoking, he began visiting Cuba to learn more about cigar production. In Korea, he introduced cigars first to hotels, and later to restaurants.

He took a very hands-on approach to marketing, riding his sample-laden motorcycle from place to place to make connections and broaden distribution.

Pierre says cigars fit all personality types.

“If you’re loner, it’s a great companion while you work on your computer, read a book or watch TV,” he says. “If you are a social smoker, it cools you down. Before entering into war, Bismark would first meet with the ambassador of the opposing country. If he accepted a cigar, war could be avoided.

Cigar gives composure. You think twice before you say something.”

www.pierrecigar.com

Sports and fitness events take place in and around Seoul usually every Saturday, sometimes Sundays.

Participants pay for their own meal. sihclub@gmail.com

KOREAN CALLIGRAPHY CLASS FOR FOREIGNERS Mondays, 10:00-noon; Tuesdays, 7-9 p.m.

Soo-Woon-Hoe-Kwan near

Insa-dong Learn how to handwrite beautifully with the Korean Calligraphy Class.

The group welcomes international residents.

KRW 10,000 moon4510@naver.com –––––––––––––––––––––––––– NEWS ––––––––––––––––––––––––––

CINE IN KOREA

Expat Buzz

If you want to take a trip to the cinema but are worried about turning up and the show being sold out, use Cine in Korea, a very reputable website, to book your tickets. www.cineinkorea.com/movie/ index.php

YNOT TAKEOUT

Live in Itaewon, Haebangchon, Gyeongnidan, Hannam-dong or Banpo, or on the Yongsan Army Base? Love foreign food but are too lazy to leave your apartment?

Ynot Takeout is here to help. The start-up has 10 drivers so far and is working on expanding to deliver local international cuisine straight to your door. www.ynot-takeout. com

AUTOMATED FREE BICYCLE RENTAL

Yongsan District Office has an automated free bicycle rental facility equipped with 20 bikes in the first basement area of the building near the entrance to the Yongsan Community Health Clinic.

The bikes can be rented for free by Yongsan-gu residents.

T. 02-2199-7750 global.seoul.go.kr/itaewon

USEFUL WEBSITES FOR EXPATS

Know someone who is on their way to live in Seoul? Recommend to them The Arrival Store, a one-stop online shop that sells everything needed to start a life in Korea, from duvets to smartphones.

If they order today, they can pay for their goods up to 60 days after their arrival date. www.thearrivalstore. com The Beautiful Store is a social enterprise that sells old, donated clothing to raise money for charity.

If you have anything to give away, please fill in a form on their website, www.beautifulstore.

The blogs My Seoul Searching (myseoulsearching.com), My Destination Seoul (www. mydestination.com/seoul) and Trazy (www.trazy.com) give up-

KOREAN BUZZ WORD

WOLGEUP LOGOUT 월급 로그아웃 The instantly vanishing salary symbolizes workers’ frustrations Written by Diana Park

Korean office life is notorious for its long working hours and tense workplace environment. Employment portal Job Korea conducted a survey of 1,051 Korean workers on work-related buzz words of 2016. Wolgeup logout, which translates as “monthly pay logout,” ranked first with 28.9 percent of the votes.

Wolgeup logout defines the phenomenon of your monthly payment “logging out” of your bank account as soon as it comes in. After paying rent, insurance and credit card bills, you have very little money left.

The word, which has been circulating for over half a decade, reflects the dire realities of contemporary working life, in which workers often find they are unable to enjoy the fruits of their labor. It’s little wonder that many employees suffer depression or attempt suicide.

Many Korean TV series offer commentary on office life. Earlier this year, the KBS sitcom “Good Manager” featured an accountant, Kim Seong-ryong, who became a manager at his company. Though he first intended to embezzle money, he ends up fighting with authority for his workers’ rights. The office comedy was a surprise hit, with audiences taking a particular shine to Kim. Workers experienced vicarious satisfaction watching Kim boldly say things they couldn’t possibly say in real life because of the hierarchical office culture. The show enjoyed consistently high ratings during its run. It did so well perhaps because Kim gave voice to the anger and frustration of millions of workers, who must put up with injustices both slight and grave on a nearly daily basis.

to-date, inspirational advice on traveling and enjoying Korea and its culture.

For the latest in art on the Peninsula, we like Blouin ArtInfo for their great modern art coverage. enkr.blouinartinfo.com Angloinfo Seoul, an extensive directory, is a great resource for

expats living in Seoul due to its listing of basic, useful info and simple, easy-to-read design. seoul. angloinfo.com WWOOF, the worldwide agency that organizes work placements on organic farms, has launched an organic food delivery service with varied packages available. All food

“Brighten your Smile, Brighten your Life” International Prosthodontics & Implants Dental Clinic.

is local and affordable, and the choices change on a regular basis. wwoofcsa.com/products/ Waygook.org is useful for English teachers living in Seoul as a space for sharing lesson plans but is also vital for its non-teaching message boards full of Korea-based knowledge from people living on

the peninsula.

Find indie music events: Try searching on Indistreet (indistreet. com/en/korea/), Do Indie (www. doindie.co.kr) or the Korea Gig Guide (www.koreagigguide.com) for listings of local venues, concerts and bands in the underground music scene in Seoul.

CERECTM is a cutting edge CAD/

CAM system for providing all-ceramic restorations in a single visit. Patients receive custom, hand-crafted inlays, veneers, crowns & bridges in our clinic.

Cerec Doctor : One-visit IP&I is a name you can trust.

Dr. Paik, Sung ki

dentistry. Over 6,000 restorations since 2005. Korea’s leading Cerec specialist.

Serving our patients with customized, doctor’s hand-crafted restorations.

DDS, MSD, Ph. D Member of American Prosthodontic Society

Magazine Somerset Palace Seoul, Suite #306, 2gil 7 Yulgok-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-140 KOREA Telephone: 82(2)735-1135 Toll free: 080-735-1135 E-mail: ipidc@hotmail.com On the web: www.ipidc.co.kr

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SEOUL

NETWORK

IMPERIAL PALACE SEOUL HOTEL: CHINESE RESTAURANT CHEONSAN RENEWAL CAFE TTEURAN Cafe Tteuran is the first hanok teahouse in the historic Ikseon-dong area, an increasingly popular neighborhood of old Korean-style homes. It serves medicinal teas made from the best ingredients and excellent red bean porridge and patbingsu made with the finest Korean red beans. Be sure to check out its lovely courtyard garden.

166-76 Ikseon-dong, Jongno-gu T. 02-745-7420, @cafe_innergarden (Instagram)

The Imperial Palace Seoul Hotel’s Chinese restaurant, Cheonsan, celebrates its grand opening on May 10 after its renewal. The Chinese restaurant Cheonsan has been a favorite for 22 years since its opening in 1995. Its renovated interior is a marriage of traditional Chinese culture and modern Western ambiance.

You can see the chefs cooking in the open kitchen as soon as you enter Cheonsan. You can taste authentic Cantonese, Sichuan and Beijing cuisines with worldclass Chinese liquor selections. There are private rooms for two to 40 people and bar tables to cater to solo diners.

GANGNAM-UC RIVERSIDE (GNUCR): ENGLISH, KOREAN, CHINESE CLASSES Study English in the heart of Gangnam and earn University of California credit and transcripts! Or brush up on your Korean with GNUCR’s Korean classes from Seoul National University. If Chinese is more your thing, GNUCR’s got that, too. Join the more than 20,000 students who have studied at GNUCR since the school’s opening in 2001. www.gnucr.kr | Gangnam-gu Office Station

강남구청역, Exit 1 | info@gnucr.net | Kakao: @gnucr

| 02-546-3260

The price for lunch course is KRW 100,000 and the dinner course is KRW 150,000 (inclusive of tax and service charges).

SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL: TRIPLE COOL SUMMER PACKAGE

SHERATON GRAND INCHEON HOTEL: BEYOND THE CLASS PACKAGE The Sheraton Grand Incheon Hotel presents the Beyond The CLASS Package to provide a memorable stay as a gift to all guests. The package consists of a relaxing stay at an Executive Suite, where you can enjoy the majestic landscape of Central Park; Club benefits, including breakfast at the Club lounge; and more. The package also includes a driving opportunity along the famous Songdo Coastal Road in the luxury Jaguar XJ, the motor brand also known as England’s pride.

The package, available thru Jun. 30, is priced at KRW 220,000 from Sunday to Friday and KRW 280,000 on Saturdays, exclusive of service charge and V.A.T. For more information, call 032-835-1004.

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GLOBAL DIASPORA MULTICULTURAL COACHING NETWORK Our organization provides professional counseling and coaching services to help and support personal growth and happiness. Also, we have programs to train professional counselors and coaches. We have counselors who are proficient in more than one language. Counselors have earned advanced professional degrees in various mental health fields.

Appointments can be made by calling 070-40403081 or by e-mailing globaldiasporamn@gmail.com. www.globaldiaspora.or.kr

Experience a relaxing summer break at the Sheraton Seoul D Cube City Hotel with the “Triple Cool Summer Package.” Enjoy a perfect start to the day with the “Feast” buffet restaurant; then take a dip in the pool on the 27th floor, ideal for a family swim. When checking into the hotel, guests will receive a complimentary gift of Dr Bronner’s liquid soap collection, a renowned organic lifestyle brand, including Cherry Blossom, Peppermint and Baby Unscented Pure-Castile Liquid Soap. These are great to use on your face, body and hair, and also good for adult and children’s sensitive skin.

The package is available from Jun. 1 to Aug. 31, and the price starts from KRW 230,000 (Exclusive of 10% tax).

Seoul Network