SEOUL (May 2013) - PREVIEW

HANGANG D

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GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

MAY 2013

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ISSUE NO. 118

￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

Contents NO. 118

12 Exploring seoul

HANGANG D

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C H O N G FINE

Spring by the Hangang River

DINING

S P R I N G

SPRING

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G O

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S U N I M

IN

STYLE

S H O P P I N G

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

MAY 2013

T R AV E L

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CULTURE

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MAPS

ISSUE NO. 118

16 Seoul travel bits 18 Travel

Daegu 20 Korea travel bits 22

History walks

From Korea University to Kyung Hee University 24

Seoul stories

Jeon Tae-il Bridge ISSN: 1599-9963

May 2013

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Dining & nightlife

About the Cover Model Bianca van Ommen at riverside restaurant Paradise (p13)

Fine Dining in Style

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Talk of the town

Closed but Comfy

M A P S

No-haggle pricing 광고가는 정찰제입니다

Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

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광고 문의

Publisher Seoul Metropolitan Government Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator Ko Yeon-kyung Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Shin Eun-ji Designers Min So-young, Lee Bok-hyun, Yu Hye-joo Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Choi Goya Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Copy Editor Daisy Larios Translator David Carruth

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Shopping

Must-have Cosmetics for Springtime 32

To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 734-9567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

Interview

Translating the Heart of Seon 53

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Goings-on around town Previews, listings, more

Useful coupons 38

Expat community page 43

Maps & guides

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Seoul sub→urban

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QR codes with blue borders directly link to individual websites.

@seoulselection T R A V E L

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C U L T U R E

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M A P S

Contributors Monica Suk Daniel Gray Meagan Mastriani Robert J. Fouser

| Raimund Royer | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Daisy Larios

Address 2nd flr., 138-7 Hwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise —­without the written consent of the publishers.

SEOUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (book@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space.

Seoul Selection also offers a free online newsletter, SEOUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in Seoul.

For details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.

WHERE’S Where to purchase SEOUL 1. Seoul Selection’s off- and on-line bookshops (www.seoulselection.com) 2. Major bookstores such as Kyobo Book Centre, YP Books and Bandi & Luni’s Bookstore 3. The following US military bases: Yongsan, Osan, Camp Humphreys and Camp Casey

Where to pick up SEOUL for FREE 1. Branches of SEOUL magazine advertisers: Jaseng hospital of Korean Eastern Medicine, Nanta Theater, Korea International School, Shinhan Bank, W Hotel, SOMERSET PALACE, IP&I, Astoria Hotel, Baerlin, Dongguk University International Seon Center, New York Wholistic Care, UBA Breast Clinic, Hair & Joy Hair Salon, Zen Hair Salon, Tartine, Between, Suyedang, Etonne, Concierge, Korea House, Dragon Hill Spa, On the Border, Avenue JUNO 2. Tourist Information Centers in Seoul 3. Hotels & serviced residences: Chosun hotel, THE SHILLA SEOUL, JW Marriott Hotel Seoul, Seokyo Hotel, Intercontinental Hotels & Resorts, Park Hyatt, Imperial Palace Hotel, Banyan Tree, Ritzcarlton Seoul, Lotte City Hotel, Grand Intercontinental Hotel Seoul, Gogung Hotel, Best Western Primier Hotel Kukdo, Lexington Hotel, Hotel Riviera, Grand Ambassador Seoul, Ibis Seoul Ambassador hotel, Incheon Airport Hotel, Koreana Hotel, Hotel Sunbee, Prima Hotel, Hotel Sevilla Incheon Airport, Hillside, Marriott Residence, Vabien Seoul, Vabien Suite, Fraser Place Central Seoul, Fraser Suites, Co-op Residence, Seoul Residence, Oak Wood Premier Coex Center, Stanford Hotel, Koryo Hotel, Best Western Gangnam Hotel, Ellui Hotel, Travellers A Hostel, Fox Hotel 4. Major cafés: All Starbucks and Café Nescafé branches in Korea and major branches of Angel-in-us have copies you can read for free.

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Exploring seoul

Spring by the Hangang River 한강

A day following the lazy river at the heart of a workaholic city Written by Ben Jackson Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

A

fter spending its youth trickling and splashing through the mountains of Gangwon-do, the Hangang River enters Seoul as a fat, sedate, and middle-aged waterway, its lack of pace furthered by a variety of man-made interventions. Series of parks on each bank guide the Hangang through the city, punctuated by bridges, resorts, and marinas and linked by a network of walking and bicycle paths.

When the warm spring weather sets in, Seoulites hit the riverbanks with characteristic vigor, charging along the bike paths (you’ll even see the occasional chalk outline), power-walking off calories, skating, walking dogs, flying kites, eating, drinking and sleeping. Spending a day following the Hangang as it flows from east to west is a great way to discover Seoul from another angle while getting some hard-earned fresh air and exercise.

Ttukseom Resort 뚝섬유원지 Located on the north bank of the river, this spot is easily reached from Exits 2 and 3 of Ttukseom Resort Station 뚝섬유원지역 (Line 7), making it a good place to start a day’s journey. There’s plenty to do here, including hiring “duck boats” for a 40-minute jaunt on the river (KRW 15,000/23,000 for pedal-powered/automatic), waterskiing and windsurfing (call T. 02-1330 for information), or relaxing on the embankments with snacks from one of the nearby convenience stores. Also worth a look is the Jabeolle (J-Bug) cultural complex, a raised, tubular structure whose innards are comprised of a gallery, cafés, a restaurant, and a gift shop; it offers a great view across the river.

Seoul Forest 서울숲 A couple of kilometers west along the riverbank lies Seoul Forest, one of the capital’s major green areas. Designed with the aim of creating a local equivalent of New York’s Central Park, Seoul Forest is a combination of trees, lawns, gardens, greenhouses, a butterfly house, lakes, and more.

It even has a deer garden, with deer feeding opportunities on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons at 2pm and 3:30pm (reserve by calling T. 02-460-2987; Korean). There are cafés and convenience stores in the forest itself and a collection of restaurants and cafés on the lower floors of the two giant green apartment blocks nearby.

Jamsu Bridge 잠수대교 Another five kilometers west stands Seoul’s only “double deck” bridge: while Banpo Bridge carries most traffic above the river, like the Hangang’s other bridges, the Jamsu Bridge—directly beneath it—lies barely a few meters above the water level, making it an ideal point to cross the river from north to south along dedicated bicycle lanes (though crossing the river at other bridges is possible, too, thanks to various staircases, ramps, and elevators). On the way here, shortly after Seoul Forest and the mouth of Jungnangcheon Stream, is Mt. Eungbongsan, a favorite spot for photographers in search of the perfect shot of the cityscape.

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Yeouido Floating Stage

Yeouido 여의도 From the southern terminus of Jamsu Bridge, it’s a 6.5-kilometer journey west to the island of Yeouido. The journey takes in Banpo Hangang Park, as well as a possible short diversion to Seoul National Cemetery, a large complex containing the resting places of some of the country’s greatest heroes and most controversial figures.

Yeouido itself is full of things to see. Surrounded by bike trails, it is lined by Yeouido Hangang Park on the northern bank and Yeouido Saetgang Ecological Park to the southeast, a lush complex of wetlands, trees, and undergrowth crisscrossed with walking and bicycle paths as well as raised walkways and a very distinctive pedestrian bridge. Beyond Wonhyo Bridge are a couple of floating cruise terminals with a buffet restaurant, café, and fast food joint.

Further west, another large park crosses Yeouido at its center, and at its southern side stands IFC Mall, one of the newest additions to Seoul’s rapidly growing mall collection.

Drop in here for food or a coffee, or even to watch a film at the CGV multiplex cinema on Level 3. The western tip of Yeouido is home to Korea’s National Assembly building and Yeouiseoro, a curved street lined with cherry trees. It’s also the location

of Seoul Marina, which offers cruise yacht rides from KRW 15,000 per person, per hour. (Seoul Marina stated that this price may be amended in late April. Reservations must be made online at www.seoul-marina.com [Korean] at least three days in advance. Seats may be obtained, if still available, by those turning up on the day of without a reservation: departures are at 3pm, 5pm, 6:30pm, and 8pm on weekdays, with an extra 1pm sailing on weekends.)

PARADISE 파라다이스 By the northeastern bank floats Paradise, a restaurant serving fairly pricey Western-style dishes, alcoholic beverages, tea, and coffee. Paradise also has a collection of duck-shaped paddle boats, rowing boats, and motorboats for messing about on the water.

T. 02-447-3333 www.hankangwedding.co.kr (Korean)

Seoul Forest

Ttukseom Resort©Sungjin Kim

Jamsu Bridge

Goings-on around town GEORGES ROUSSE SOLO EXHIBITION: SPACE · FICTION · PICTURE

PREVIEWS+

Seoul Arts Center Thru May 25 KRW 5,000 T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5

CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL ENLIVENING METROPOLIS May 14–26

T. 02-712-4879

www.seoulspring.org

The Seoul Spring Festival of Chamber Music will be staged at various venues in the metropolis for two weeks beginning May 14.

Under the main theme “Far From Home,” each daily program differs in genres, styles, and collaborative structures as well as in their subjects. From this year, Korea Foundation participates as the main sponsor of the festival.

The opening day session, featuring Dvorak and other notable composers under the daily theme “Globetrotters,” will take place at Sejong Chamber Hall. Other daily themes include “Once Upon a Time,” “European Expats,” “Vienna Spring” and “American Dream.”

The Family Concert–East & West program on May 17 is going to be a crossover extravaganza that will bring together Western classical music and Korean performing arts representing its folk, aristocratic, and court traditions.

In particular, K’Culture Company, created by a group of reform-minded young talents of traditional music, will share the limelight with farmers’ percussion maestro Kim Duk-soo. The venue is the Seoul Arts Center’s Concert Hall.

Admission is KRW 20,000.

On May 19, an outdoor stage will be set up at Deoksugung Palace as Korean Symphony Orchestra collaborates with famed Swedish pianist Peter Jablonski and Chinese cellist Jian Wang for the Palace Concert program. Korean diva Kim Soo-jeong will render a selection of Giuseppe Verdi’s aria scores. The palace program is open to the public.

The May 26 concert, titled Wanderer Odyssey, will wrap up the entire festival, presenting hallmark works by Mozart, Brahms, Carl Maria von Weber, and other composers who crisscrossed the world in search of their musical essentials. For details, visit www.seoulspring.org.

ENGLISH BOOKING

An ongoing exhibition highlights French photographer/installation artist Georges Rousse. Prepared in time for the Seoul Arts Center’s 25th anniversary, the show is divided into three sections: his latest works devoted to SAC themes, some of his signature works, and a group of his conceptual drawings and photographs. Rousse takes his inspiration from a site’s architectonic quality and the light he finds there and creates a mise-en-scene. Rousse is unmistakably a photographer, but he is simultaneously a painter, sculptor, and architect.

GODS KITCHEN WITH MARK RONSON Walkerhill Theater Exit 2

May 11, 10pm–5am

KRW 55,000

T. 010-3360-7846

Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5),

British-American musician Mark Ronson is holding his first Korea concert on May 11. Ronson’s second album Version won him a Brit Award for Best British Male Artist in 2008. He was also nominated for a 2007 Grammy Award for Producer of the Year. As a producer, Ronson has worked with Jay-Z, Lily Allen, Robbie Williams, Christina Aguilera, Amy Winehouse, Ol’ Dirty Bastard, and Duran Duran. In 2010, Ronson was given a vocal track to a song titled “Lovely Way”, sung by Michael Jackson, to produce for Jackson’s posthumous album Michael.

JASON MRAZ—LIVE IN SEOUL T Subsidiary Stadium, Jamsil Sports Complex May 17, 6:30pm Standing R: KRW 132,000, Standing S/Seat: KRW 110,000 T. 02-332-3277 Jamsil Sports Complex Station 잠실운동장역 (Line 2), Exit 6

Grammy-winning singer-songwriter Jason Mraz will return to Korea for a Seoul concert on May 17 and join forces with rising pop sensations from Korea and Britain. Mraz achieved major commercial success with his second album Mr. A-Z in 2005. His third album, We Sing. We Dance, We Steal Things, became a commercial success worldwide, peaking in the top ten of many international charts. In 2010, Mraz received a Grammy Award in Best Male Pop Vocal Performance with “Make It Mine.” His guest performers will include Korean band Idiotape, Roy Kim, and Joe Brooks.

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global T http://ticket.yes24.com/Home/PerfFN/PerfListFN.aspx

MUSEUMS Art Across America National Museum of Korea Thru May 19 KRW 12,000 T. 02-2077-9000 / www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

The Peranakan World— Cross-cultural Art from Singapore and the Straits National Museum of Korea Thru May 19 Free T. 02-2077-9000 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Onjo, Foundation of Baekje Seoul Baekje Museum Thru May 26 Free T. 02-2152-5811 http://baekjemuseum.seoul.go.kr Mongchontoseong Station 몽천토성역 (Line 8), Exit 1 or Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3.

Cheongnyangni Cheong Gye Cheon Museum Apr 25–Jul 21 Free T. 02-2286-3406 / www.cgcm.go.kr [ Map 5 D1]

CLASSICAL MUSIC 2013 International Piano Festival: The Pianist Sejong Center for the Performing Arts May 1–3 KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 010-5507-7799 www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

Martha Argerich & Mischa Maisky Duo Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 6, 8pm KRW 60,000–220,000 T. 1577-5266 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Szalai Hungarian Gypsy Band IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center

May 12, 8pm KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-3463-2466 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Seoul International Music Festival 2013 IBK Chamber Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 14–30 T. 02-585-0137 www.simf2013.com Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Yuri Bashmet & Moscow Solosits Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center May 29, 8pm KRW 40,000—140,000 T. 02-599-5743 / www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

DANCE T Tango Musical ‘Tanguera’ LG Arts Center

Apr 25–May 8 KRW 50,000–130,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 5 B3]

Korean National Ballet—Giselle Chungmu Art Hall May 2–5

Ansan Street Arts Festival Ansan Culture Square, Gyeonggi-do May 3–5

KRW 20,000–80,000 T. 02-2230-6601 / www.kballet.org [ Map 5 D2]

MUSICALS Umoja—The Spirit of Togetherness Chungmu Art Hall May 14–26 KRW 50,000–130,000 T. 02-548-4480 www.seoularts.co.kr [ Map 5 D2]

Musical Gala Concert: Time in Fantasy Sejong Center for the Performing Arts May 20, 8pm KRW 40,000–200,000 T. 02-2650-7481

THEATER

T. 031-481-4030 www.ansanfest.com Gojan Station 고잔역 & Jungang Station 중앙역 (Line 4), Exit 1

Drawing Show Children’s Day Special Uniqlo AX May 4–5 KRW 25,000 T. 02-3445-9697 / www.uniqlo-ax.com Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2

T Uijeongbu International Music Theatre Festvial Uijeongbu Arts Center and other venues in Uijeongbu-si, Gyeonggi-do May 4–19 T. 031-828-5892 / www.umtf.or.kr Uijeongbu Station, Line 1. Take a cab at the westward exit.

Lee Eun Kyul— Just Magic Concert Vista Hall, Sheraton Grande Walkerhill May 5, 2pm & 5pm KRW 77,000 T. 02-455-5000 Take shuttle bus at Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 4 (in the direction of Gangbyeon Stn.)

CONCERTS T Kraftwerk Dome Stage, Jamsil Stadium West Parking Lot Apr 27, 9pm KRW 110,000 T. 02-332-3277 Jamsil Sports Complex 잠실운동장역 (Line 2)

Dream Concert 2013 (w/ Girls’ Generation, SHINee, KARA) Seoul World Cup Stadium May 11, 6:30pm KRW 5,000 Tickets: dreamconcert.oilbankcard. com T. 02-786-7637 / dreamconcert.kr World Cup Stadium Station 월드컵경기장역 (Line 6), Exit 2

NEWS

DISCOUNT

INSA-DONG OFFERS CONCERT SERIES A regular concert program of Korean traditional music has launched in Insadong, offering a much-needed opportunity to appreciate Korea’s performing arts in the mostly fine art district.

Sponsored by the Jongno-gu District Office, the Insa-dong Moonlight Hanok Korean Traditional Music Concert will be held at the Insa-dong Promotion Center on the first and third Fridays of the month at 7pm. Hanok means Korea’s traditional roof-tiled houses.

The one-hour show features traditional songs and dances of Korea as well as tea ceremonies, with simultaneous translation service in English, Japanese, and Chinese provided for each act. Following its successful debut on April 12, the concert program will return on May 3 and 17. Admission is KRW 20,000.

The Insa-dong Promotion Center (T. 02-737-7890, www.hiinsa.com), built in traditional hanok style, opened its doors in October 2006 within the compound of a private residence of a Joseon Dynasty prince.

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Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical Jesus Christ Superstar has returned to Korean stage, featuring some of the nation’s top vocal acts. Famed rocker Yoon Do-hyun performs as Judas. The musical is loosely based on the Gospels’ accounts of the last week of Jesus’ life, beginning with the preparation for the arrival of Jesus and his disciples in Jerusalem and ending with the crucifixion. A large part of the plot focuses on the character of Judas, who is depicted as a tragic figure dissatisfied with the direction in which Jesus steers his disciples.

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Olympic Park Soccer Stadium, Olympic Park May 4, 7pm Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

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American hip-hop heavyweight Snoop Dogg, who has sold over 170 million albums worldwide throughout his 20-year career, is coming to Seoul for his first Korea concert on May 4. Korean hip-hop girl group 2NE1 will share the stage as a guest performer. Snoop's debut album Doggystyle was released in 1993, topping on both the Billboard 200 and Billboard Hot R&B/ Hip-Hop Songs charts. His second album Tha Doggfather was certified double platinum in 1997. Under the pseudonym Snoop Lion, the rapper released a new reggae single, “La La La,” in 2012.

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T Television—Live in Seoul (w/ Chang Kiha and the Faces) Blue Square May 12, 6pm R: KRW 88,000, S: KRW 77,000 T. 1544-1591 / www.bluesquare.kr Hangangjin Station 한강진역 (Line 6).

Take the passage between Exit 2 & 3. [ Map 8 F2]

The Tiger Lillies—The Rime of the Ancient Mariner LG Arts Center May 11–12, 5pm R: KRW 80,000, S: KRW 60,000, A: KRW 40,000 T. 02-2005-0114 / www.lgart.com [ Map 9 C2]

Keith Jarrett, Gary Peacock, Jack Dejohnette 30th Anniversary Trio Concert Sejong Center for the Performing Arts May 19, 7pm KRW 60,000–220,000 T. 02-2187-6222 / www.keithjarrett.kr [ Map 1 B3]

T T Ultra Korea 2013 (w/ Armin van Buuren, Avicii, Carl Cox) Seoul Olympic Stadium Complex

Jun 14–15 3-day pass: KRW 160,000, 1-day pass: KRW 110,000 www.umfkorea.com Jamsil Sports Complex 잠실운동장역 (Line 2) T Muse Incity (w/ Lenka, Lisa Hannigan) 88 Jandi Madang, Olympic Park Jun 15 KRW 132,000 T. 02-3141-3488 http://muse-incity.com Olympic Park Station 올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

2013 Jisan World Rock Festival (w/ Jamiroquai) Jisan Forest Resort, Icheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Aug 2–4 T. 02-644-1200 www.jisanworldrockfestival.com Take a bus from Dong Seoul Bus Terminal to Icheon. Transfer to bus no.

12 and get off at Jisan Mart.

T 2013 Ansan Valley Rock Festival (w/ Cure, NIN, Foals, The XX, Yellowcard) Daebu Sea Breeze Theme Park, Ansan-si, Gyeonggi-do Jul 26–28

3-day pass: KRW 260,000 T. 1588-0688 www.valleyrockfestival.com Ansan Station 안산역 (Line 4), Exit 1 or Jungang Station 중앙역 (Line 4), Exit 1.

Transfer to bus no. 123.

KRW 10,000 T. 02-580-3300 / gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to maeul bus No. Seocho 12 or green bus No. 4429.

2013 Incheon Pentaport Rock Festival (w/ Fall Out Boy, Blood Red Shoes, Story Of The Year) Incheon Songdo Aug 2–4

National Orchestra of Korea– The Sinawi Project National Theater of Korea May 31, 8pm

3-day pass: KRW 165,000 T. 02-3775-1588 www.pentaportrock.com International Business District Station 국제업무지구역 (Incheon Line)

Super!Sonic 2013 Olympic Park Aug 14–16 T. 02-6002-7577 (ext. 8) supersonic.pmc@gmail.com www.supersonickorea.com Olympic Park Station a올림픽공원역 (Line 5), Exit 3

KOREAN MUSIC Gonggam! Youth Gugak National Gugak Center May 21–24

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T World Beat VINARI VINARI Theater, Cine Core Thru Jul 31

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KRW 40,000–60,000 www.worldbeatvinari.com [ Map 2 D4]

KOREAN DANCE Dance Meets Percussion Arts BEAT National Gugak Center May 17–18 T. 010-5349-6082 / gugak.go.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to

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5%

BUSINESS TYPE: CULINARY TOURS & COOKING CLASSES 10% discount

Maps & guides Map 1 GWANGHWAMUN AREA

The Gwanghwamun area, named for the landmark gate that marks the entrance of historic Gyeongbokgung Palace, is Seoul’s “old” downtown and where you’ll find Seoul’s enchanting royal palaces as well as other historical and cultural sites, such as Insa-dong, Bukchon, and Jeong-dong.

TIP A

Lost?

If you’re lost, seek out a nearby Tourist Information Center (marked on our Maps & Guides) or one of the helpful tourist information guides, easily recognized by their red uniforms with an “i” of them.

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C

D

Cheongwadae (Office of the President)

Samcheong-dong

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METRO Line 1

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Line 8

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Line 2

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Line 9

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Line 3

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Bundang Line

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Line 4

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Jungang Line

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Line 5

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Airport Railroad

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Line 6

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Gyeongui Line

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Line 7

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Sinbundang Line

Tongin Market Seochon

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum

s all W

1

Tosokchon

Sajik Park

Gyeongbokgung Stn.

Sungkok Art Museum

IP&I www.ipidc.co.kr C2 02-735-1135 Change your smile in a single day

M

Dongnimmun Stn.

3 3

Independence Gate

Cinema Jeong-dong (Music Show Wedding) 6

National Art Museum, Deoksugung

Insa-dong Jogyesa Temple Nagwon Arcade

4 Shinhan Bank

Vabien Suites

Danseongsa M M

Jongno 3-ga Stn.

Cheonggyecheon Stream

Seoul Global Center

City Hall

Jeong-dong

Seodaemun Stn. M

Deoksugung Palace

Euljiro 3-ga Stn. M

MM

Euljiro 1-ga Stn.

Seoul Plaza City Hall Stn.

Seoul Museum of Art

6

M

Neungna Bapsang

Cheongjinok / The.Me

The British Embassy

CHONGDONG THEATER (MISO)

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Jongmyo Shrine

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Jongno Tower Tapgol Park Kumho Art Hall Gwanghwamun Stn. M M Jonggak Stn. Ilmin TomaTillo Dongwha Duty YP Books Museum Free Shop Cine Cube of Art Cine Core Seoul City Tour Bus Cheonggye Plaza

4

4

Kyobo Book Centre

Indie Space

Gyeonghuigung Palace

Delicious Japanese shabu shabu and sukiyaki hot pot dishes made using only the finest quality, freshest ingredients

Music Show Wedding B3 02-736-8289

Embassy of the United States

Gwanghwamunjip 5 Ilpumdang

Seoul Museum of History

The first branch in Korea exclusively for international residents

Ilpumdang B3 02-733-4949

Ssamziegil

KT Olleh Square

Secure and comfortable accommodation with inspiring views of Gyeongbokgung. www.somerset.com

www.shinhan.com Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center

Anguk Stn.

Gwanghwamun Square

Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

Authentic German cuisine in the heart of Seoul

Farmers Barn

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National Museum of Korean Contemporary History

Changdeokgung Palace

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Somerset 1 Palace Seoul 2

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New York Wholistic Care

Bärlin C2 02-722-5622

Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center B3 02-773-3131

Bukchon Art Hall National Palace Museum of Korea (Gogungddurak) Seoul Selection Bookshop Gwanghwamun

Hwanghakjeong (Archery Practice Site)

2

Changgyeonggung Palace

Jeongdok Public Library Gyeongbokgung Palace

s es

2

Somerset Palace Seoul C2 02-6730-8888

Bukchon Hanok Village

National Folk Museum

tr or lF ou Se

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M M

Myungbo Art Hall

The Plaza

Myeong-dong

Ohyangjokbal

Bringing together some of Korea’s top musical talent, Music Show Wedding is a comic tale told in the universal language— music.

Restaurants & Bars

EXPLORING GWANGHWAMUN Royal palaces

10:00 am

The Gwanghwamun area’s biggest attractions are its royal palaces. Located right at the end of Gwanghwamun Square B2, Gyeongbokgung Palace B2 is the most monumental and probably the easiest to visit and explore. To experience the epitome of Korean traditional architecture, though, head to Changdeokgung Palace D2 , with its spectacular, UNESCO-registered gardens, the most beautiful in Korea.

Lunch Plan A Insa-dong/Bukchon

01:00 pm 02:00pm

Many international visitors head to Insa-

dong (see Map 2 ), a bustling neighborhood of galleries, workshops, antique stores, teahouses and Korean restaurants. For a truly memorable experience, though, spend your afternoon exploring the quaint alleyways of the Bukchon neighborhood (see Map 3 ), home to Seoul’s largest collection of Korean-style hanok homes.

Shops

Museums & Galleries

Gwanghwamun Square

Hotels

07:30 pm

In the evening, stop by Gwanghwamun Square B2 , which is lit up at night. The area around the square is one of Seoul’s most interesting, with palaces, museums, performing arts venues and shops.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Plan B Jeong-dong

02:00pm

Another neighborhood worth exploring is Jeong-dong B4, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, where you’ll find lovely old churches, schools and diplomatic compounds.

Also part of Jeong-dong is fascinating Deoksugung Palace B4, with its eclectic Korean and Western architecture.

Dinner

05:30 pm

TomaTillo C3 (T. 02-734-9225) An outstanding Cali-Mex restaurant with branches here and in Itaewon and Gangnam.

Farmers Barn D2 (T. 02-743-9233) Top-of-the-line handmade hamburgers with organic ingredients for a fresh taste.

Gwanghwamunjip B3 (T. 02-739-7737) One of the most famous kimchi stew (gimchi jjigae) restaurants in the area.

Ohyangjokbal B4 (T. 02-753-4755)

Clubs & Theaters

Etc.

Coupon Affiliates

Some of the best jokbal (boiled pig’s trotters) in Seoul. Comes with rice-cake soup, too! Near Seoul City Hall.

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo Map 2, A3 (T. 02-738-1769) Barbecue-broiled eel and pork chitterlings in a retro interior. Near Jonggak Station (Line 1).

The.Me C3 (T. 02-2075-6611) They don’t serve many side dishes here, but the Korean beef they serve is top-rate. On the third floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Cheongjinok C3 (T. 02-735-1690) They’ve been doing haejangguk (Korean hangover soup) since 1937. First floor of Le Meilleur Jongno Town.

Tosokchon B2 (T. 02-737-7444) Seoul’s best-known purveyor of samgyetang (ginseng-chicken soup). Always full. Not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

45 Map 2 INSA-DONG

Once known (for reasons unknown) as “Mary’s Alley,” Insa-dong started off as an alley of antique dealers and is now one one of Seoul’s major centers of Korean traditional art and culture.

A

B

C

tn.

uk S

Ang

Bukchon

Doriking

1

2

Chon

Ma Vie

Korea Pass The Korea Tourism Organization offers Korea Pass, a prepaid card that offers not only plenty of benefits at tourism-related sites, but can also be used as a transportation card.

See www.koreapass.or.kr for details.

Soo-Woon-HoeKwan

Sagwanamu

Miss Lee Café Gana Art Space

TIP

D

Unhyeongung Royal Residence

Cheondogyo Central Temple

The Moon Bird Thinks of the Moon Only

METRO

Ikseon-dong

Tobang Min's Club Sin Yetchatjip

2

Jogyesa Temple (Central Buddhist Museum)

Balwoo Gongyang (5F)

OSULLOC Gallery Artside

Kyung-in Museum of Fine Art (Dawon) Ssamzigil

Insa Art Center Mokin Gallery

1

Gyo-dong Elementary School

Crown Hotel

Sudo Pharmacy

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Line 1

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Line 8

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Line 2

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Line 9

M

Line 3

M

Bundang Line

M

Line 4

M

Jungang Line

M

Line 5

M

Airport Railroad

M

Line 6

M

Gyeongui Line

M

Line 7

M

Sinbundang Line

Sanchon Dubu Maeul

Dolsilnai

Fraser Suites

Toetmarujip Doenjang Yesul 3 Jilkyungyee

Sun Gallery Gong Art Space

3

Center Mark Hotel

La Mer gil a hw Tae

Hanuso

Tea Museum

Dolsilnai

VOOK's Gallery

Ma Vie B1 02-722-2775

3

Jilkyungyee C2 02-734-5934

Nami Island Culture Tour Information

If you want to know about Korea's distinctive culture, try on an outfit

by Jilkyungyee. You'll feel it from head to toe.

Naminsa Open Theater 4

Seung Dong Presbyterian Church

Experience culture through cuisine...

Ongo Food Communication D2 02-3466-1607

Experience culture through cuisine...

Jongno Tower (Top Cloud 33F)

Tapgol Park

Insa-dong Culture Plaza

Bandi & Luni's IT'S SKIN

You can arrange a stay at a Buddhist temple.

2

Elegant and distinctive handmade accessories that stand out from the usual high street crowd - but at affordable prices.

Sihwadam

4

Templestay Information Center A2 02-2031-2000

IT'S SKIN

Seoul Art Center

Gongpyeong-dong Kkomjangeo

Tteuran Nagwon Arcade (4F, Cinematheque / Seoul Art Cinema)

National Souvenir Center

g on n a-d tio Ins rsec e Int

Hotel SunBee

Hotel Aventree Jongno

Beoldeok Kalguksu/ Nolboo Budaejjigae & Cheolpangui

1

Yetchatjip (2F)

Tongin Store

Haejeong Hospital

4 O'NGO

Park Yeong-suk Yo

YMCA

We are a culinary school and culinary tour company that offers Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours in English or Japanese. Through our tours and cooking classes you will experience the real, local flavors of Seoul and you will gain an insider’s perspective to Korean culture. Private and group classes and tours are available.

Golbal Stores

Restaurants & Bars

Shops

ongofood@ongofood.com

6

Galleries tour

10:00 am

Insa-dong is comprised of one main street and the alleyways that branch off from it.

Along the main street you’ll find most of Insa-dong’s galleries and shops, while the restaurants and teahouses can be found in the alleyways. Major galleries to check out are the Kyung-in Museum of Art C2 (lovely teahouse here, too), Insa Art Center B2, Kong Gallery B3, VOOK’s Gallery C3 (great if you like books) and the fascinating Mokin Gallery B3, dedicated to Korean totemism.

Lunch

Hotels

Clubs & Theaters

In an alley just off the main street is historic Seung Dong Presbyterian Church C3 (1902), and in another is the grand, Art Nouveau central temple of Cheondogyo C1 (1921), an indigenous Korean faith. Near Insa-dong are Unhyeonggung Palace D1 , a gorgeous 19th century Korean villa well worth exploring, and Tapgol Park D4, Seoul’s first Westernstyle park.

Nagwon Arcade

04:00pm

Nagwon Arcade D2 is Asia’s largest collection of musical instrument shops. The nearby restaurants are cheap but good.

Etc.

Coupon Affiliates

A neighborhood with a neighborhood, Ssamzigil B2 is a culture and shopping complex comprised of four floors of stores, restaurants and workshops. It’s home to about 70 shops in all. Recommended ones include Galpi (books), Sky Lake (cosmetics made with Korean traditional herbs), Chinjeolhan Hyeonja-ssi (Korean cuisine/ broiled fish) and Bukchon Sonmandu (Korean dumplings). In the basement there is also a branch of Gogung, the famed Jeonju bibimbap restaurant.

RECOMMENDED EATERIES Specializing in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine

Dinner

05:30 pm

Ssamzigil

07:00 pm

dance performances in the evening.

Min’s Club C1 (T. 02-733-2966) Fusion is the name of the game here, both in terms of the architecture (a fusion hanok from the 1930s) and the cuisine (fusion dishes mixing Korean and Western flavors).

Toetmaru Doenjang Yesul C2 (T. 02-739-5683) Run by poet/photographer Park Jung-sik, this lively place specializes in gang doenjang, a very thick, rich soy bean paste stew.

Dubu Maeul C2 (T. 02-735-9996)

Balwoogongyang A2 (T. 02-2031-2081)

12:30 pm

02:00pm Exploring Insa-dong’s past Insa-dong has its fair share of history, too.

Jump D4 02-722-3995 Comic Martial Arts Performance

Museums & Galleries

EXPLORING INSA-DONG

ongofood@ongofood.com

6

(JUMP)

Bosingak Belfry

Seoul Global Center (5F)

— Contact us — tel. 02.3466.1607 www.ongofood.com

— Contact us — tel. 02.3466.1607 www.ongofood.com

KT Global Store

Cine Core YP Books

KT Global Store C4 02-733-0267

Need a cell phone, or help with the one you've got? Knowledgeale and friendly English speaking representatives at the KT Global Stores are here to help.

5

Jonggak Stn.

We are a culinary school and culinary tour company that offers Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours in English or Japanese. Through our tours and cooking classes you will experience the real, local flavors of Seoul and you will gain an insider’s perspective to Korean culture. Private and group classes and tours are available.

5

Kumkang

Jewelry Market

Cooking Classes & Culinary Tours

Sanchon C2 (T. 02-735-0312) Run by a Buddhist monk and expert in Korean Buddhist cuisine, this famed eatery does great vegetarian cuisine, with Korean traditional

The taste of Korean traditional homemade tofu and pungent, healthy cheonggukjang soybean stew.

Top Cloud B4 (T. 02-2230-3001) Located at the top of the distinctive Jongno Tower, this Western restaurant is better known for its outstanding views.