SEOUL (February 2014)

FEBRUARY 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

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ISSN: 1599-9963

ISSUE NO. 127

BEETHOVEN SONATAS AT SAC

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KOREA'S TOP BANK, SHINHAN BANK P.7

FRIENDLY CARE AT IP&I DENTAL CLINIC P.37

GOOD INSA-DONG EATS AT KIMCHIGOL P.38

P12-13

GREAT VALENTINE DATES IN SEOUL INSPIRING YEOJU

P16-17

SEOUL'S HISTORIC EATERIES

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PHOTOGRAPHER

P28-29

LEE JEE YOUNG

CONTENTS NO. 127

10 SEOUL BASICS

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ISSN: 1599-9963

12 EXPLORING SEOUL

ISSUE NO. 127

Valentine’s Day in Seoul 14 SEOUL TRAVEL BITS 16 TRAVEL

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Yeoju

18 KOREA TRAVEL BITS 20 HISTORY WALKS

The Chang Myon House 21 SEOUL SUB—›URBAN

February 2014

Sinseol-dong Station 광고 문의 T R A V E L

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22 DINING & NIGHTLIFE

Eats and Sweets

M A P S

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Publisher Seoul Selection President Kim Hyung-geun (Hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor Felix Im, Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator/Writer Kim Hansol Art Director Jung Hyun-young Head Designer Yu Hye-joo Designer Cynthia Fernández Photographer Ryu Seunghoo Advertising & Sales Park Mina, Min Jae-won Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung

Seoul is for Lovers 28 INTERVIEW

Photographer Lee Jee Young •

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26 SHOPPING

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정기구독 안내

About the Cover Models Kim Da-hee and Chae Soo-min in Hongdae's Picasso Street. Coordinated by Shin Yesol.

30 GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN

Previews, listings, more

34 EXPAT COMMUNITY PAGE 39 MAPS & GUIDES

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@seoulselection T R A V E L

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Contributors Daniel Gray Merissa Quek Robert J. Fouser Violet Kim

| Deanne Nguyen | Subul Sunim | Charles Usher | Loren Cotter

Address 2nd flr., 43, Bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by Seoul Metropolitan Government & Seoul Selection Printed by (주) 이펙피앤피 (Tel 82-2-332-3584) All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise — without the written consent of the publishers.

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SUGGESTED

SEOUL ITINERARIES DAY 1

2 DAYS / 1 NIGHT E x p l o r e S e o u l ’s l o v e l y J o s e o n D y n a s t y Changdeokgung Palace [ Map 1 D2] Enjoy traditional food in Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] Take a stroll along the Hangang River at Seoul Forest.

Explore the multinational eats of the multicultural neighborhood of Itaewon [ Map 8 ] Party all night at a club in the bohemian Hongdae district [ Map 7 ] or red-hot Itaewon [ Map 8 ]

DAY 2 Stroll through quaint Bukchon [ Map 3 ] Try some Korean meat dishes at Maple Tree House [ Map 3 C1] Finish up with a bit of shopping in electric Myeongdong [ Map 4 ]

DAY 1

3 DAYS / 2 NIGHT Visit majestic Gyeongbokgung Palace

[ Map 1 B2] Enjoy a bowl of Korean noodles at Myoung-dong Kyoja [ Map 4 C3] in Myeong-dong.

Shop till you drop in Myeong-dong [ Map 4 ] Head to traditional Insa-dong [ Map 2 ] with its wonderful restaurants and teahouses.

Party like there’s no tomorrow in posh (and pricey) Cheongdam-dong [ Map 11 C2]

DAY 2 Greet the morning with a stroll through Seonyudo Park.

Head to atmospheric Samcheong-dong [ Map 3 ] for lunch.

Explore historic Bukchon [ Map 3 ] , including Simsimheon House [ Map 3 C2] Head to Itaewon [ Map 8 ] for some great international eats.

Shop for clothes all night at endlessly huge Dongdaemun [ Map 5 ]

DAY 3 Explore 5,000 years of history at the National Museum of Korea (see www.museum.go.kr).

Try some Korean kimchi stew at Gwanghwamunjip [ Map 1 B3] Finally, head downtown and stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream [ Map 1 C3, D3]

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W Seoul Woo Bar

Exploring seoul

VALENTINE’S DAY IN SEOUL Spending a romantic night out with someone you love Written by Violet Kim

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here’s not much to love about February. The holidays are over and you’ve already given up on your New Year’s resolutions. Luckily there is Valentine’s Day. Seoul may not immediately strike one as a city of love, but it’s not lacking in alternatives to sitting at home sipping hot toddy.

First Date On a day like Valentine’s Day, a visit to N Seoul Tower might feel a bit like a moonie wedding. You will be surrounded by hundreds of other couples doing the same thing.

But this iconic tower can make a good first date location, especially with cute, kitsch features like the fence affixed with love padlocks or the teddy bear museum.

The panoramic view of Seoul from the observatory is also worth seeing at least once, so it might as well be with your date.

For food, nearby Myeongdong has Merry Go Round Steak Kitchen, which has been attracting online buzz as an atmospheric date location.

Like many popular date spots it serves Western cuisine for Korean palates.

SEOUL Recommendation: W Seoul’s Woo Bar Nobody ever went wrong bringing a date to the W Seoul’s Woo Bar. Great music, even better views over the Hangang River, a truly encyclopedic menu of wines and spirits and googie-esque egg chairs—what’s not to like? The 18 meterlong bar is the longest in Korea. On Valentine’s Day (10pm to 4am), the bar will host the W Choco Party featuring chocolate, singles matching and music by international DJs. And remember—nothing says “I love you” like egg chairs.

T. 02-2022 0333 Exit 2, Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5)

Merry Go Round Steak Kitchen

T. 02-734-0222, www.nseoultower.co.kr T. 02-515-9141, www.merrygoroundsteakkitchen.com

Second Date Ice-skating is a good option for a second (or third or fourth) date, when the relationship is still young but you’ve already talked about your favorite foods. It doesn’t require too much skill, and falling will hopefully just endear you to your partner.

The Grand Hyatt Seoul has a spacious outdoor rink bordered by Christmas-style lights.

Valentine’s Day falls on a Friday this year, but the hotel offers special discounts for couples on the other days of the week: couples get 50% off on Mondays, and complimentary hot chocolate on Wednesdays.

The hotel also has multiple restaurants that serve cuisine from Korea and all over the world.

T. 02-797-1234, www.grandhyattseoul.co.kr Grand Hyatt Seoul Ice Rink

Youthful Date A Valentine’s Day date is a great excuse to try the Trick Eye Museum, a gallery of trompe l’oeil illusions. Many of the illusions are based on famous paintings, but the museum is better for photo ops than it is for art appreciation.

The surrounding neighborhood of Hongdae itself is also full of entertainment, home to dozens of small galleries, shops, bars and bookstores and varied enough to cater to a range of tastes.

You don’t have to be in college to enjoy a date here, but fair warning: you’ll be seeing a lot of matching couple looks and hand-holding youngsters, which might either make you feel really old or right at home.

Other youthful couple activities in the area include dog cafés and cat cafés. At these cafes you get to play with a variety of personable cats or dogs. It smells a bit more than just going for coffee, but offsetting that is the opportunity to bond over your mutual love of animals. 바우하우스 (Bow House)

T. 02-334 5152

Cat Attic

고양이 다락방 (Cat Attic)

T. 02-318-2123, www.godabang.com

Mature Date You’ve been dating a while, and you’ve done most of the couple stuff. If so, there’s nothing wrong with a movie for Valentine’s Day. And if you’d prefer to enjoy a quieter evening without dozens of other couples enjoying their quiet moments loudly next to you, skip the CGVs for the Silver Cinema.

The Silver Cinema screens old Hollywood classics and older Korean films, and provides discounted admission for moviegoers aged 55 and older.

Seoul Cinema next door has been around since the 1970s, and screens more recent films. It also offers the option of a non-verbal art performance, The Painters, which runs until February 28.

Afterwards you can grab drinks and nibbles at Top Cloud Grill & Café, on the 33rd floor of the Jongno Tower. Drinks are on the pricey side, but you can’t beat the ambiance, the view through the glass walls, and the generously spaced tables.

T. 02-2269-2700, www.seoulcinema.com T. 02-3672-4232, www.bravosilver.org T. 02-2198-3300, www.topcloud.co.kr

Art Date If you’re already familiar with artsy neighborhoods like Samcheong-dong, Cheongdam can be a decent place to gallery hop. The neighborhood may be better known for luxury fashion and wedding planners, but there are also places like the Mezzanine Gallery, with a permanent Dale Chihuly exhibition, SUN Contemporary, and the Nam June Paik Museum.

In keeping with the theme there is also Oroom Dining, a modern French restaurant that bills itself as an “art dining space,” with art work in the dining space.

T. 02-3448-5577, www.mezzgallery.co.kr T. 02-720-5789, www.suncontemporary.com T. 02-514-6072, http://cafe.daum.net/namjunepaikmuseum T. 02-518-6873, www.oroomdining.com

Nam June Paik Museum

Seoul Cinema

Jazz Bar Date If you’re single but don’t want to stay at home on Valentine’s Day, live jazz might be what you need. Despite what you might expect, live jazz bars are sometimes better enjoyed without a partner. Unless both parties are equally into it, there is the risk that one person will be bored while the other person is annoyed.

The neighborhood of Itaewon has All That Jazz. And Hongdae has Club Palm, where you can park yourself at the bar alone with relatively little awkwardness.

T. 02-795-5701, www.allthatjazz.kr T. 336-9016, www.clubpalm.co.kr

All That Jazz

Dining & nightlife

eats and sweets

SEOUL food columnist Daniel Gray shares his recommendations for Valentine's Day dining

Written by Daniel Gray

Valentine’s Day is slightly different in Korea: husbands and boyfriends are the recipients of chocolate gifts on this popular date day. Here are my suggestions for eats and sweets this month.

Apgujeong Rodeo Station area

Coreanos Kitchen

코리아노스 키친

While Mexi-Korean was a major US trend in 2011, it is just starting to make

Coreanos Kitchen 코리아노스 키친

waves in Korea. However, this didn’t stop Gene Cho, who decided to bring

T.02-547-4427 www.coreanoskitchen.com Hours: 11:30am—3 pm, 5:30— 10pm Tuesday through Thursday; open until 11 pm on Friday; 12:30—11 pm on Saturday; 2—10 pm on Sunday; closed Mondays Price: KRW 3,300 Apgujeong Rodeo Station 압구정 로데오역 (Bundang Line), Exit 5.

Take a right- you should see De Chocolate Cafe down the street.

Coreanos is right across from it.

his award winning food truck from Houston, Texas, to Apgujeong’s glitzy Rodeo Street. Although Coreanos has localized for the Korean market by adding more crunchy vegetables, less citrus juice, and a disclaimer about a “cilantro alert,” overall, it has retained the elements that made it a very well known and popular food truck in Houston.

The atmosphere has a vintage feel reminiscent of Andy Warhol, and the alternating brick and painted walls show photographs of accolades from the past such as a U.S. News Report that says, “America’s Best French Fries” and one from the Smithsonian.com which includes Coreanos on their list of best food trucks in America.

For drinks, they offer a range of draft beers, bottled beers, creative margaritas, mojitos and cocktails. Their signature Coreanos Coronita is a luscious and chilly margarita with a full upside-down Corona in it, and the fruity and sweet Reu-La-La is a greyhound with extra lime and a sugar rim.

The food is exciting, flavorful and filling. The Three Wise Fries has three different savory meats intertwined with a chipotle sour cream, salsa verde and a chili salsa. The sour kimchi and cooling sour cream on their nachos go perfectly with the charred bits of pork.

Their tacos are filling and attractively priced at only KRW 3,300. The Al Pastor Pork is my favorite; the roasted pineapple garnish is an inspired touch. The OG Galbi Burrito is a twister of Korean flavors that gyrate between caramelized kimchi, barbecued beef, earthy samjang sauce, and crunchy french-fries.

For dessert, try the Sulam’s Chocolate Cookie Pizza, a large cookie cooked in a pan topped with five scoops of ice cream and chocolate sauce.

The cookie is rich like fudge and even more delicious when the ice cream melts into it.

Anguk Station area

2046 Pan Steak

2046 팬 스테이크

Steak was one of the big trends last year and it doesn’t seem to be losing traction. One of the unique restaurants that started this trend was 2046 Pan Steak, a small restaurant in a basement off Gaedong street. The interior is Spartan. The main decorations are the smoke exhaust fans that hang from the ceiling. They hang higher than the ones in typical Korean barbecue restaurants and double as lamps. Even with such an army of exhaust fans, there is still a light haze around from all the sizzling steaks they serve. The concept here is simple: a steak is halfcooked in a sizzling cast iron pan and then brought to the table. The steak is served with fresh spinach and mushrooms. A polite server explained the process of how to eat the steak as he cut it up. The fresh spinach tossed in beef fat was savory and so were the garlic-topped mushrooms.

The steak was of decent quality, especially for the price of KRW 14,000. At 2046 Pan Steak, you can eat the steak plain or dip it in their signature steak sauce, which is like A1 but a tad sweeter, or their chili oil sauce. Their steak comes with a small side of rice, which is more of a symbolic gesture since Koreans need rice to complete a meal.

2046 Pan Steak 2046 팬 스테이크 T. 070-4042-9198 Hours: 11:30 am—3 pm, 5—11 pm Price: KRW 9,000—14,000 a person Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 2. Walk straight until you come to Jaedong Elementary school where you take a right, walk a block down and take a left and it's at the end of the block. The whole walk should take about 10-15 minutes.

Among their other dishes, the bacon Caesar salad is excellent, with crisp romaine, crunchy bacon and plenty of finely “micro-planed” parmesan cheese. The other popular dish is the Gorgonzola cream and meat pasta with chunks of beef in a cream sauce. This is also cooked and served in a pan. My pasta was cooked al dente, and they are very generous with the beef, which is tender and flavorful in the creamy sauce.

At the end of the meal, the restaurant gives each guest a mini-brownie served in a tiny cast iron pan: a sweet way to complete the meal.

Overall, a fun and creative dining experience that is almost perfect, although the place is a bit smoky. Also, it is a dry restaurant so they don’t serve beer or wine.

Shopping

Seoul is for Lovers E

Valentine’s Day Vindicated

Written by Deanne Nguyen

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here is a dark lining that surrounds Valentine’s Day in Seoul, and it’s not made of chocolate. It lurks alongside the gaggles of relationship hopefuls flocking to the Bangsan Baking Market for chocolate making supplies, ready to hand-craft their way into their sweetheart’s romantic history. It snickers at boyfriends making last minute reservations to Top Cloud, for its dinner with a view atop 33 floors. It rolls its eyes at girlfriends lining markets and shop windows for the best Omega look-alikes.

Yes, Valentine’s Day has fallen from its genuinely romantic origins and developed a ubiquitously commercial flavor. To take it seriously would be to fall into a trap laid out by marketing firms and subliminal guilt trips. Regardless, couples still follow its sonorous summons and Korea is at the head of the line.

Korea’s adoption of the Western holiday not only transferred the product placement and coupling frenzy, but also amplified them, especially in Seoul. Koreans, as well as much of East Asia, find every excuse to publicly display affection (materialistic or otherwise), so much so that Valentine’s Day’s reach extends well into March 14 as White Day. Ladies slave over handmade chocolates or gifts one month; gentlemen reciprocate by shelling out their hard earned cash the next. A fair trade.

Self Wine

Maison d e Parfum

Ceraworks

No pressure. Really.

The latest trend in Seoul, however, is not to place so much pressure on one gender for the February date. Couples now are co-creating date courses and experiences, rather than placing all their emotional eggs in one present-basket.

The most popular of these are the craft workshops, where couples can personalize themselves silly. It’s a charming alternative that speaks to the essence of valentines: our soul mates with whom we’ve shared our laughs, dreams and vulnerabilities, and whom we would like to continue smiling with. For the disenchanted Westerner, tired of the red and white, this just may be the key to finding the way back into (the day of) love.

Capturing love in the moment, is easier said than applied.

Insa-dong, however, makes it easy—almost too easy. At Ssamgie-gil Workshop, they have a variety of coupleoriented activities, such as pottery painting at Ceraworks.

Choose a ceramic base and splash on inside jokes, favorite TV characters, and caricatures to the brim.

For a ritzier take on crafts, Garosu-gil never disappoints.

Just opened in November 2013, the French perfumery Maison de Parfum allows customers to not only purchase delicately constructed scents, but also to design their own.

The entire staff is expertly trained to the keynote, making this experience a bit of a splurge, but what a way to remember how the morning with your lover smells: just the way you want.

Nearby, if you haven’t taken a couple’s portrait for 2014 yet, head over to Map Studio Photography in Nonhyeon for their Valentine’s Day special. The brand new studio headed by master make-up artisan Carolina Lee and feisty fun photographer Jessica Berggrun doesn’t do any old portrait, mind you: they do full-blown, breath-taking editorials, as if you were models for a new campaign. Bring your favorite outfits and accessories and watch yourselves become an entirely new twosome: Mad Men extras, candy ravers, or even corpses.

The New Year’s boredom bug is sure to be warded off with these creative portraits.

If modeling’s not your forté, Face Factory in Hongdae will turn any portrait into a pop art piece worthy of exhibition in your

Goings-on around town Cologne Philharmonic

PREVIEWs+

Seoul Arts Center, Concert Hall Feb. 15, 8 pm T. 02-599-5743, www.sac.or.kr KRW 50,000–230,000 Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

New York Philharmonic Seoul Arts Center, Concert Hall Feb. 6–7 KRW 50,000–320,000 T. 02-6303-1977 www.sac.or.kr Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Nambu

The New York Philharmonic Orchestra is returning to the Seoul stage after its historic inter-Korean performances in 2008 and 2009. Under the masterful baton of music director Alan Gilbert, the orchestra will collaborate with Korean pianist Kim Da-sol on Feb. 6 for a program charged with Beethoven’s “Piano Concerto in C minor Op. 37” and his opera “Fidelio.” Celebrated Japanese jazz pianist Makoto Ozone will collaborate with the orchestra the following day. The concert tour is organized by the Kumho Asiana Cultural Foundation.

The orchestra, also known as the Gurzenich Orchestra of Cologne or GurzenichCologne Philharmonic, was established in 1827. Since 1857, their concerts have been held in a concert hall named the Gurzenich, hence the orchestra’s name. Markus Stenz has served as principal director since 2003, with 2014 being the last year of his Gurzenich tenure. The Seoul program includes Mozart’s “Concerto for Clarinet and Orchestra,” R. Strauss’s “Eine Alpensinfonie” and a collaboration with clarinetist Sabine Meyer.

Dong-Hyek Lim Piano Recital Seoul Arts Center, Concert Hall Feb. 18, 8 pm T. 1577-5266, www.sac.or.kr KRW 30,000–100,000 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429

Lim studied with Arie Vardi at Hochschule fuer Musik in Hannover and Emanuel Ax at the Juilliard School. He entered the international spotlight after making his mark in three of the world’s top competitions: 2001 Queen Elisabeth, 2005 Chopin and 2007 Tchaikovsky. In 2001, at age 16 he became the youngest pianist to sign a contract with EMI Classics. His concert will feature Debussy’s “Clair de lune” from Suite bergamasque and Bach’s “Toccata, Adagio and Fugue in C Major BWV 564.”

ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS 3000 years of Beijing: a Journey of Acceptance and Tolerance Seoul Museum of History Thru Feb 9

[ Map 3 A2]

Science Show The Body War Memorial of Korea Thru Mar 2

Free T. 02-724-0114 www.museum.seoul.kr [ Map 1 A3]

Adults: KRW 12,000, Children: KRW 10,000 T. 070-7539-6916 www.scienceshow.co.kr [ Map 8 A3]

Incense Burner of Goryeo Dynasty National Museum of Korea Thru Feb 16

Cheonggyecheon Stream, 1930 Special Exhibition Hall, Cheong Gye Cheon Museum Thru Mar 3

Free T. 02-2077-9485 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Jongga, the Head Family of a Respected Clan National Folk Museum of Korea Thru Feb 17 T. 02-3704-3114 www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

Horse, a Vigorous Gallop National Folk Museum of Korea Thru Feb 17 T. 02-3704-3114 www.nfm.go.kr

Free T. 02-2286-3410 http://www.cgcm.go.kr/ Sangwangsimni Station 상왕십리역 (Line 2), Exit 2. Take maeul bus no.8 and get off at Sungdong Social Services Center.

Taoism in Korea: Deities and Immortals National Museum of Korea Thru Mar 12 T. 02-2077-9461 www.museum.go.kr Take the underpass at Ichon Station 이촌역 (Jungang Line, Line 4). [ Map 8 A3]

Classical music Korean Pops Orchestra Regular Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center, Feb 5 KRW 30,000–150,000 T. 02-581-5404 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Yiruma Concert ［Blind Film］

Sejong M Theater, Sejong Center for the Performing Arts Feb 7–9 KRW 60,000– 90,000 T. 02-530-0900 www.sejongpac.or.kr [ Map 1 B3]

Romantic Rachmaninoff Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center, Feb 14 KRW 10,000–70,000 T. 1588-1210 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Grand Prize Winners Gala Concert(Korea Opera Grand Prize)

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 16 KRW 100,000–250,000 T. 02-586-0116 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

CREDIA’s 20th anniversary [Beethoven Festival] Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center, Feb.17, 20, 21 KRW 20,000-50,000 T. 1577-5266 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The Healing Concert with 2.mov.

Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 19 TBA T. 02-3285-8808 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Emmanuel Pahud & Berlin Barock Solisten

Concert Hall,´ Seoul Arts Center, Feb 22 KRW 30,000–120,000

T. 02-580-1300 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Yulianna Asia Recital Tour Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center, Feb 23 KRW 35,000–75,000 T. 02-2658-3546 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Scottish Chamber Orchestra Concert Hall, Seongnam Arts Center Feb 23 KRW 40,000–200,000 T. 031-783-8000 www.snart.or.kr Imae Station 이매역 (Line Bundang), Exit 1

Hun-joung Lim Meets the Seoul Philharmonic Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Feb 26 KRW 10,000–70,000 T. 1588-1210 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Cosi fan Tutte Kepco Art Center Feb 27–Mar 1 KRW 30,000–120,000 T. 02-825-6208 www.kepco.co.kr/artcenter Yangjae Station 양재역 (Line 3), Exit 1. Walk 200m in the direction of Nambu Bus Terminal. Turn left along Kumkang Shoe MFG bldg. Walk 150m and turn left.

2014 Kumho Art Hall Rising Star Series #5 Kumho Art Hall Feb 27 KRW 9,000–40,000 T. 02-6303-1977 www.kumhoarthall.com [ Map 1 B3]

Korean music The National Chorus of Korea The 151st Regular Concert IBK Chamber Hall,Seoul Arts Center Feb 20 TBA T. 02-587-8111 http://www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부터미 널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Maps & guides39 Food/beverages Craftworks Taphouse Downtown

크래프트웍스 탭하우스 다운타운

Craftworks Taphouse & Bistro serves sophisticated yet unpretentious food and authentic craftbrewed beers in a warm, inviting atmosphere.

The stylish bistro began as a pub in Gyeongnidan in 2010, having boomed into its fourth location in the downtown Euljiro area recently. All their seven beers are 100 percent natural, and are never filtered or pasteurized. In particular, the Jirisan Moon Bear India Pale Ale, which is crafted from Centennial, Cascade and Chinook hops, is a strong seller. They also have plenty of other offerings, including organic and fair-trade coffees and a large selection of single malt scotches. www.craftworkstaphouse.com, T. 02-6031-0035 [ Map 4 D1].

Food/beverages bÄrlin

베어린

The upscale bistro bärlin serves up some of the best German cuisine in town. Indulge yourself in the German regional kitchen and drinking habits here. The menu provides some nice choices that may go between KRW 50,000–100,000 per person. Its interior is elegant and relaxed, with large black and white photographs of the Brandenburg Gate and the Oberbaum Bridge. If you are a big fan of German beer, they provide some of the best in Seoul. Their location is on the first floor of the Somerset Palace residence across the street from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

February

HOT SPOTS SEOUL’s PICKS OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

T. 02-722-5622, www.baerlin.co.kr [ Map 1 C2]

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Concierge

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Shopping

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컨시어지

CONCIERGE is a premium brand specializing in mobile, digital and IT devices and accessories, with a particular emphasis on mobile phones, tablets and cameras. There are 41 stores and new ICT device retail shops across the country. You can find all your favorite digital and mobile brands, including Apple, Google, Samsung, LG, Canon and Sony and experience them on the spot in a comfy, refined atmosphere.

In particular, CONCIERGE is a major Apple Premium Reseller in Korea.

Since its opening in 2011, CONCIERGE’s Sinchon branch has gone through vast changes in its product selection. Recently, the store managed to embrace the T world Wireless service brand of SK Telecom under the same roof, offering an integrated customer service for smart phone users. With colleges and schools kicking off a new academic year, CONCIERGE is holding its “Back to School” promotion throughout February to offer sweeping discounts on many hot sellers. www.concierge.co.kr, T. 02-6713-5555, 02-363-3599 [ Map 6 A1]

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Seoul’s old downtown

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Insa-dong A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

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Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

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크래프트 로담

Nestled in a tucked-away street of the Bukchon traditional village, Craft Lodam is a gallery-cum-store displaying a diverse collection of Korea’s traditional craft artworks. The shop is packed with handicrafts of embroidery and traditional mulberry paper art, articles colored with natural dyes, and metal ware and lacquer ware items. Established by a cooperative of master artisans, Craft Lodam is the brand name and marketing outlet for the items on sale here, all of which are created by the shareholders. It also serves as a communal space that allows for various joint efforts in design, manufacturing and marketing.

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Myeong-dong

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Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

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Yeouido The Manhattan of Seoul

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Sinchon / Ewha

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

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www.craftlodam.com, T. 02-722-1256 [ Map 3 B3].

Hangangjin Quickly turning itself into the trendiest spot in town

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Two of Seoul’s hippest college town areas

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

Shopping Craft Lodam

Gwanghwamun Area

Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond