Scratch Magazine January 2021

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Issue 213 Editor-in-chief Alex Fox alex.fox@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Deputy editor Kat Hill kat.hill@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jesswilkie17@yahoo.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

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Until next month,

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription?

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Contributors Dave Heffernan, Maddie Regan, Tina Beaumont-Goddard, Chantelle Vermont, Ria-Jaine Lincoln

Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer Warners Midlands PLC Printers Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Images courtesy of Purple Professional Shades shown are My French Bulldog, My Chihuahua, My Beagle, My Pug, My Yorkshire & My Pinscher from the MY collection.

Available via www.purpleprofessional.pt

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

COVER CREDITS This month’s front cover comes courtesy of Yulia Vasilevskaya and reveals her winning entry to the Gothic World 2020 nail poster competition.

Vasilevskaynai @vasilevskay_yulia

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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F I N D O U T W H Y W H AT ’ S I N S I D E M AT T E R S Make 2021 the year of discovery with Light Elegance, the award-winning brand who believe What’s Inside Matters. Formulated with the professional in mind, Light Elegance provides everything you need to safely perform natural nail manicures, overlays and extensions with ease.

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Contents JANUARY 2021

FEATURES 24 From Russia With Love…

Get to know the nail tech behind this month’s striking cover image that scooped a competition top spot

26 Pantone Colour Of The Year 2021 Discover why Pantone’s two colour picks for 2021 are set to influence nails, beauty & your salon setup

30 New Year, New Career

Scratch chats to individuals that have taken the leap into nail tekking owing to fallouts from the pandemic

36 The Feds Are Here

The newly launched Federation of Nail Professionals serves up insight on its plans & objectives for the nail sector

40 The Perfect Match

Ensure your UV/LED gel enhancement service goes the distance & uncover the clients most suited to the system

66

48

48 Trials & Triumphs In 12 Months

The team at Staffordshire Nail Academy reflects on a year of challenges, moves & benefits for nail pros

58 Workplace Safety: Practical Pointers From security to ventilation, posture & more – get clued up on points to note for a smooth, safe work life

72 The Science Of Cuticle Oil

Glean an insight into cuticle oil ingredients & why the product is an essential part of a nail service

84 Nail Neighbours

Can two nail businesses really work harmoniously in such close proximity? Scratch finds out…

26

REGULARS 10 18 20 34 46 50 52 54 64 66 68 70 78 82 88 94 96

Nail Nation The Hot List Nailscopes International Nail Spy Getting Down To Business Grow & Glow With Maddie Readers Gallery The Clawgasmic Effect Scratch Stats Strike A Pose Brand Watch Mindful Matters Access All Areas Beauty In Numbers Scratch Pads Nail Clippings Fingernails in Focus

Supplying UK Professionals since 1992

We create the chemistry, you make it

Beautiful!

Learn more about NSI at nsinails.co.uk or freephone

0800 881 8469

Nails by Bethany Denby using NSI Perfectly Pretty Powders

Share your creations #nsinails #nsiuk

@nsiukltd

@nsiuk

@nsiuk

Head office: NSI (UK) Ltd Unit 4 James Nasmyth Way Eccles Manchester M30 0SF e: salesinfo@nsinails.co.uk t: 01617882860 f: 01617882861

Nail NATION

business

news & views

By Team Scratch

Marian Newman BEM founds Federation of Nail Professionals to support the nail sector Nail industry and education advocate, Marian Newman BEM, and a board of industry peers, have launched The Federation of Nail Professionals (The FNP).

The not-for-profit organisation is focused on supporting and raising the standards of practice, education, knowledge and development for UK nail professionals.

The initial launch invites supporters to sign up free of charge to keep updated on news from The FNP, with the opportunity to become a member and gain a number of benefits – if they meet and uphold the Code of Ethics.

The FNP includes but is not limited to; students, newly qualified and existing nail professionals, educators, salon owners, brands and distribution partners.

Discover more on page 36 and visit www.the-fnp.com

NHBF warns of ‘devastating future’ without further financial support Research from industry body, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF), is warning of a bleak outlook for the hair and beauty industry if the government does not step up with additional financial support.

The survey was conducted to obtain information about the impact the ongoing coronavirus pandemic has had on businesses, speculating on what further support could be needed.

Almost two thirds (62%) could not be sure their business would survive until the end of the financial year, with 18% explicitly sure they would have to close while 1 in 8 business owners (13%) had already made redundancies as a result of the pandemic.

Richard Lambert, chief executive of the NHBF said: “The responses to the survey starkly show that the future of the hair and beauty sector is bleak without targeted help from the government.

Without this, we could be approaching the next financial year with boarded-up shop fronts, significant job losses and a major mental health and wellbeing crisis.

“As a client-facing, service-based sector, the hair and beauty industry has been hit hard by continued closures and lockdowns without the ability to adapt and generate income through other means, such as online sales etc.” www.nhbf.co.uk 10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAIL & BEAUTY PROS WANTED TO HELP SHAPE NATIONAL OCCUPATIONAL STANDARDS The Hair & Beauty Industry Authority (Habia) and Skills Active UK are inviting professionals in the hair, beauty, spa, aesthetics and nail sectors to support the review of the National Occupational Standards (NOS).

These standards are ‘statements of the standards of performance individuals must achieve when carrying out functions in the workplace, together with specifications of the underpinning knowledge and understanding.’

Draft standards have been shaped for each sector of the industry, which are available to view via habia.org. There are 12 files for the nail sector, including for application and maintenance of nail enhancements (natural finish), enhancing and maintaining nails using light cured gel and creating nail art designs.

Habia and Skills Active UK are inviting pros to read each standard and then complete a consultation survey by 7 January 2021 to help further develop each standard.

Visit www.habia.org tot have your say.

Jenny Sworder

VTCT appoints new chair & vice-chair for board of trustees

The Vocational Training Charitable Trust (VTCT), which offers vocational and technical qualifications across sectors including beauty Isabel Sutcliffe therapy, has appointed Jenny Sworder as chair and Isabel Sutcliffe as vice-chair of its board of trustees.

The board of trustees is responsible for the overall governance and leadership of the charity, its strategic direction and financial health.

The leadership and guidance received from the board of trustees allows the organisation to fulfil its charitable purposes, while providing qualifications and education resources, which support the challenges and opportunities faced by learners, educators and businesses.

Jenny Sworder was the previous vice-chair and has served seven years as a trustee of the board. She has been actively involved in the beauty and retail industry for over 20 years and takes over the role from Professor Dr Chris Laws and comments, “I am delighted to take forward the great work that Chris has done for VTCT over the past 10 years. During this time he has helped to steer VTCT to being the wonderful organisation it is today.

“I look forward to further building upon this and tackling the new challenges within vocational and technical education, ensuring that learners remain at the heart of what we do as a modern and progressive awarding organisation.” www.vtct.org.uk

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business

Nail NATION

THE BEAUTYCO CLUB LAUNCHES TO SUPPORT THE SECTOR Beauty entrepreneur, Jayd Linney, has launched The Beautyco Club to remove the fear of ‘reaching out’ to other businesses and competitors, and to help people come together to offer advice, motivation and guidance.

The concept arrived at the beginning of the second lockdown in England and was launched via Facebook. Jayd has 10 years’ experience running multiple successful businesses, including two award-winning nail bars, which were invited to open concessions in Topshop stores.

She is now using this knowledge to offer free business advice, as well as a private business mentoring service for club members looking to make an instant and targeted impact via their business.

“This isn’t something I would have given a second thought to before the pandemic as I’ve always preferred to stand in the background of my businesses,” Jayd comments. “However, the situation has made me re-evaluate everything and I decided I wanted to share the knowledge and skills I’ve gained, plus the mistakes along the way, with others to help boost their businesses.”

To join The Beautyco Club and to find out more about Jayd’s mentoring services, visit www.thebeautycoclub.co.uk

Olympia Beauty unveils virtual spring event With trade exhibitions postponed due to the pandemic, the organiser of leading autumn beauty event, Olympia Beauty, has gone online. A virtual event will be hosted 5-7 February, featuring product offers from a number of brands – all found in one place; at www.olympiabeauty.co.uk

Beauty group pens letter to uphold EU Cosmetics animal testing bans The world’s fourth-largest pure-play beauty group, Natura & Co, has joined PETA & Cruelty Free International to sign an open letter to decisionmakers in the European Union to uphold the EU animal cosmetics testing bans. These have served as a beacon of good practice around the globe, enabling consumers to make cruelty-free choices and speeding up the development of animal-free testing.

Requirements by EU authorities for cosmetics ingredients to again be tested on animals have dealt a devastating blow to the cosmetics testing and marketing bans following a series of regulatory decisions made by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), with support from the European Commission and ECHA’s Board of Appeal. As a result, the bans are at risk of being undermined by EU chemicals legislation.

Natura &Co, which includes Avon, Natura, The Body Shop and Aesop, is joining other leading beauty companies in backing the bans and urging consumers to show their support by shopping cruelty-free to demonstrate that buying beauty products that are free from animal testing is important to them.

In 2018, the European Parliament called for a worldwide ban on testing cosmetics on animals by 2023 and 84% of respondents to a recent global survey said they would not buy a cosmetics product if they knew it had been tested on animals.

UK prestige beauty market sees 38% increase in product sales Research by The NPD Group has revealed that online sales of beauty products have provided a welcome boost to the UK prestige beauty market.

This market includes skincare, body care, make-up, fragrance and men’s grooming, and reported sales of over £491 million from January 2020 to the end of October 2020 – an increase of 38% from the same period in 2019.

E-commerce accounted for 41% of total prestige beauty sales in the period from January 2020 to the end of October 2020, compared to 21% of total beauty sales in the same period in 2019.

Emma Fishwick, account manager for NPD UK Beauty explains, “Prestige beauty brands and online retailers were quick to respond to lockdown with many providing online incentives to purchase such as offering free delivery, gifts with purchase, price promotions, online tutorials and virtual ‘Try On Services’ to support shade matching from home.” www.npdgroup.co.uk

12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

pleasure

Nail NATION Capture nail tutorials & imagery hands-free with KB Glow Video & Photo Demo Station Award-winning nail tech, Katie Barnes, has added KB Glow™: Overhead Video & Photo Demo Station to the Katie Barnes Tool Range.

The multifunctional station facilitates overhead filming of tutorials and live streams and is ideal for nail and lash tutorials where you need all hands on the demo and an overhead view.

KB Glow™ has built in LED lights and white reflective panels, so you can use the station to take photographs of your work without shadow.

A USB connector features, alongside an add-on KB power bank, making the KB Glow™ station a portable solution for techs.

The station is compatible with a variety of filming and photography devices and includes two camera openings and an integrated tablet and secondary device stand. This allows the user to use multi-screen function when recording via screen mirroring or other applications. The top acts as a workstation tray to keep products and tools close by when working.

“Times have changed since the pandemic and many things have had to move online,” Katie comments. “Those that once taught face to face have had to move their teaching online but there is limited equipment to successfully offer this.

“I developed KB Glow™ during the first lockdown where overnight, my nail education business had to move to work from home and transfer online.

The product started off as a cardboard box and a coat hanger and has been through several alterations, and we soon realised that this could offer a perfect solution to the nail industry and fellow crafters and hobbyists.” The station is easy to assemble and disassemble in minutes, is solvent resistant and made from recycled Greencast plastic.

The KB Glow™: Overhead Video & Photo Demo Station is available via www.katiebarnesacademy.com

NSI adds three sparkly shades to Perfectly Pretty range Add a dazzling element to nail designs with three new additons to NSI’s Perfectly Pretty acrylic powder range. Razzle Dazzle, Disco Ball and Firecracker can be used for sculpting, in a tip & overlay enhancement or as a design powder.

Each 25g shade is £7.95 + VAT and available from www.nsinails.co.uk

HOOK TOOL ELIMINATES THE NEED TO TOUCH SHARED SURFACES A designer from the UAE has developed The Hook, a pocket-friendly gadget that alleviates the stress of touching the likes of door handles or lift buttons.

Mahsa Alikhany comments: “I designed the Hook with a dynamic leather shield that helps the user not only minimise the touching of surfaces, but in addition, allows them to place the hook next to their personal items in their bag or pocket without having to worry about sanitising it after it’s exposed to public places.”

The Hook’s leather cover opens and closes with a click and is then ready for use on pulling open doorknobs or pushing elevator buttons, ATM screens, touchscreens and hoisting up shopping bags, all while eliminating the need for washing or sanitising the hands in that given moment, when it may not be possible.

Available via www.liane-k.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Industry veteran, Liza Smith, has been awarded the CND™ International Educator of the Year 2020 title. Liza, a multi award-winning tech and salon owner, has been instrumental in providing support for techs and salon business throughout the coronavirus pandemic and continues to do so via her Facebook group, The Business Of Salons Academy.

S TA R S

The Scratch Stars Party (postponed from July 2020) has been rescheduled to Sunday 25 July 2021 at Proud, Embankment.

It recognises exceptional talent in the nail sector with a fun-filled event. www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars

For the full stories, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

AWARDS

Buttercups Uniforms is offering 20% off selected workwear styles throughout January. The discount is included on the popular High V Neck Tunic and Long Sleeve Tunic with Front Pockets, now available in linen-look fabric in black. www.buttercupsuniforms.com

Nail Safari education experience announces dates for 2021 The second Nail Safari event has been scheduled for Monday 15 – Friday 19 November 2021 and is open for bookings.

With such positive feedback from delegates who attended the original event hosted back in November 2019, it was decided a second event should take place. So, with a positive outlook for 2021, the organisers are forming, sculpting and shaping a schedule that is both creative and educationally nourishing.

The 2021 line up presents nine educators; Marian Newman, Jennie Nippard, Hazel Dixon, Tracey Lee, Mino Vo, Catriona Leith, Nataliya Al-Ta’ai, Charli Jepson and Pavan Dhanjal. Each will bring their own flavour, style and expertise to the classroom with subjects such as one stroke, fashion, sculpting, nail art ideas, henna art and some science all on the menu.

Homework will be set, challenges put forward and lots of fun and frolics will be enjoyed. The event will be hosted once more at Shepreth Wildlife Park, between Cambridge and Royston.

Register your interest and place your deposit to guarantee your place by emailing Jennie Nippard on nailsafariuk@yahoo.com

Keen to enhance your skills?

Pure Nails has announced three nail courses; Halo Acrylic Conversion course, EasiBuild Conversion course and Beginner Halo Gel Polish course. For more info, email purenails@totallypolishedtraining.co.uk

Nail artist & SNA Professional collaborate to develop 5 rich gel paints SNA Professional has collaborated with popular nail artist, Kirstan Hart, to launch HARTPASTE, a collection of five rich gel paints.

These gel paints can be used to create striking nail art looks with ease with the thick consistency and opaque quality of the formula. The gel paints can be used for full coverage looks, to ombré or to add decadent details.

The five metallic gel paste colours are Hematite (a grey/black), Silver, Gold, Bronze and Goldstone – a red hue.

The collection is £67.50 inc VAT and includes a by NAILHART glass palette and mixing knife. www.snaprofessional.co.uk

TOWNHOUSE NAIL SALON EXPANDS INTO HARRODS Scratch Stars Awards finalist, Townhouse, has grown its presence – expanding into Harrods with its stylish and sought-after nail treatments.

Townhouse Knightsbridge is offering the full range of the brand’s signature nail treatments on the 5th floor of the renowned London department store. Such treatments include manicures, pedicures, nail art and a range of Harrods-only exclusives.

Townhouse opened its flagship branch in Fitzrovia in 2018. Since then, it has featured on E4’s Made in Chelsea and collaborated with brands including Elemis, BirchBox and Chantecaille.

The Fitzrovia salon is a finalist in the Scratch Stars Awards 2020/21 for Nail Salon of the Year. www.mytownhouse.co.uk

Salon System expands core Gellux range with 5 shades Five fashion inspired gel polish shades have been added to the Salon System Gellux Core collection.

The Gellux formula assures long-lasting colour, up to 15 days wear and an ultra-high shine, glossy finish.

The five shades to join the collection are: • Stony Blue - dusky blue • Empowered - rose gold with glitter • Sparkling Plum - deep burgundy with glitter • Rosy Posy - a bright rose pink tone • Timeless Taupe - nude with a touch of lilac Each Gellux shade is £11.95 + VAT and available via wholesalers nationwide.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

DO YOU OWN A BRAND? To have your brand profiled at the event contact ian.archbold@olympiabeauty.co.uk or go to www.olympiabeauty.co.uk

Rates start from just ÂŁ149 + VAT

OLYMPIA

BEAUTY VIRTUAL EVENT SPRING ED IT ION 5-7 FEB 2021

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NEWPRODUCTS

‘

Purple Professional MY Collection £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt Featuring a mixture of creamy, matte and sparkly finishes, each of the six gel polishes in this collection is named after a dog breed. Standout shades are the burgundy glitter My French Bulldog and matte teal My Pug.

Indigo Nails Lab Lipstick 4 U Collection £7.40 inc VAT each www.indigo-nails.co.uk These four sophisticated tones of pink have been added to the Indigo Nails range of gel polish; serving up a hue to complement any skin tone. Each has a creamy texture and offers excellent coverage with great durability. Easy to apply, the shades cure in 30 seconds in the Indigo LED lamp.

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand HIVE Solutions Hand Cleanser NAF! Stuff Pink Grapefruit Hand Cream to your services

£8 + VAT/RRP £12 www.nafstuff.com Boost your retail game and help keep your client’s hands hydrated with this 50ml hand cream. Featuring a pink grapefruit scent, the hand cream absorbs quickly into skin.

Katie Barnes 2-Way Nail Files from £1.39 + VAT each www.katiebarnesacademy.com Award-winning tech, Katie Barnes, has added 150/180-grit and 240/240-grit files and a 220/280-grit buffer to her tool range. The files feature a precision ruler to measure enhancements with ease and deliver a large surface area, made from durable Japanese file paper.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

£2.67 + VAT each. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

This antibacterial cleanser is ideal for the salon and everyday use, with a 70% alcohol volume and fresh fragrance. Claiming to kill 99.99% of germs, the cleanser is also recommended for retail use.

Salon System Mavelash Easy Fan Pad £4.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Help create the perfect lash fan in seconds with this reusable silicone pad. Washable up to 20 times, the easy fan pad helps to speed up Russian and Hybrid lash techniques.

NEWPRODUCTS

Mavex Vegan Skincare Creams & Gels £POA www.mavex.uk Six therapeutic skincare products, all made in Switzerland, have been added to Mavex’s product portfolio. Ideal for use within a treatment or for retailing, the formulas are based on medicinal plants and herbs. The range features Arnica Gel, Calendula Cream, Cold Feet Cream, Tired Legs Cream, Intensive Repair Foot Cream and Honey Foot Cream.

Astonishing Nails Escape The Ordinary Collection £59.24 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk Four chic shades make up the latest Gelosophy gel polish collection from Astonishing Nails. Escape The Ordinary comprises pinky-red Cocktails & Pearls, cocoa Shaken Not Stirred, deep teal Not Red and sparkly gold Extraordinary (£14.81 + VAT each), with a free Base and Top Coat included when you buy the complete collection.

Pure Nails Halo Create Chrome Powders £4.95 + VAT each www.purenails.co & stockists The six chrome powders in the Halo Create nail art range are each packaged in an attractive diamond shaped jar and work with all Halo nail systems. Create eye-catching all-over looks or stun with feature nails.

Lecenté Winter Nail Art Foils £3.99 + VAT each www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk These five swirly nail art foils are perfect for a full coverage finish, using on feature nails or adding a touch of nail art. Not just for winter, these versatile designs will suit yearround nail looks and include the likes of Vintage Swirl and Canyon Swirl.

NSI Polish Pro Night At The Theater Collection £10 + VAT each www.nsinails.co.uk Are you a Primadonna?

Or do you love Bow Ties & Ballgowns? NSI presents its theatrical themed Polish Pro collection, featuring six gel polish shades named and inspired by such a night out.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

s o f e a c h si g n c ti ris te c ra a h c Im m e rs e in th e re s c o lo u r lo xp e Y E IL IE LL A sC o f th e zo d ia c , a o ti v e s & m o re … d ra w s, c a re e r m KEY QUALITIES

Capricorn is known as being the most down to earth and dependable of the zodiac signs. Loyal, funny and caring, Capricorns make amazing friends and offer both stability and reliability to the lives of others.

Ruled by Saturn, these features are amplified through the practicality and responsibility this planet brings to the sign.

A n d re a D e la n y (@ a _ is g a la xy 4 a n d re -i n sp ir e a ) u se s d to n e her ha s as a n d p a in b a se fo te d C a r p ri c o rn si g n s.

Capricorns have an eye for detail and are extremely organised. Moreover, this tenacious earth sign is exceptionally ambitious and determined to achieve, which isn’t always a challenge with its intelligence and diligence. Despite this intense ambition, Capricorns remain realistic about their capabilities while still pushing themselves to work as hard as they can for their goals.

The perseverance that Capricorns show complements their cool-headed nature and allows them to maintain the resilience they have to bounce back when things don’t go as planned. This sign is confident, hardworking and disciplined with a high level of self-control. However, Capricorns focus on both work and play, as they are also extremely fun to be around and have an amazing sense of humour.

CND Vinylux™ in Cap & Gown £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 Capricorns value success, www.sweetsquared.com recognition and respect.

Halo Gel Polish in Honesty £4.99 + VAT www.purenails.co

The Gel Bottle Inc Gel Polish in Infinity £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Light Elegance Glitter Gel in White Lace £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Ruled by Saturn, the Capricorn has natural leadership skills, and excels in leadership roles. This goes well with the organisational skills possessed

by Capricorns. The creative capabilities of Capricorn are often expressed through art, which is a perfect complement to their more serious side, whether at work or at home. Capricorns make amazing nail techs as nail art is a great way to let their artistic side flow freely. Taking a leadership role in their career is an amazing step for a Capricorn.

Instagra

Minimalistic and practical, this sign is best suited to versatile and reliable shades of black, white and grey. As an earth sign, strong and neutral shades of brown are also suited. Traditional shades of navy and khaki complement Capricorns nicely, with shades of blue representing the sign’s independence and loyalty.

m/dollyparton

COLOUR PICKS

STYLE FILE

Capricorns exude classic elegance.

They opt for an understated look while preserving a flawless energy.

A Capricorn knows exactly how to keep it classy while maintaining practicality, as this sign values comfort above all else. Inspired by vintage styles, a Capricorn can look back on old trends and reuse them in a modern context.

They have a look that is constantly evolving, and keep their style subtle, yet still individual. Stylish Capricorn celebrities include Kate Middleton, Dolly Parton, Zayn Malik, Timothée Chalamet, Dove Cameron, Mary J Blige and Michelle Obama.

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Capricorns are strict but fair with everyone in their lives, from friends to family and work colleagues. They set up expectations clearly, but are always as helpful as they possibly can be. Capricorns typically have lots of friends but have a ‘less is more’ approach with those who they allow into their inner circle – they are incredible judges of character, so they know immediately who they want in their lives. They never give up on friends and family no matter how tough the going gets.

Concentrated and resourceful, Capricorns are fully committed to the jobs they need to do both at work and home. Their dedication and perseverance take centre stage in the workplace. As an incredibly career focused sign, the Capricorn sets high standards for itself at work.

Capricorns thrive in jobs that push them to be the very best they can be – they need to be constantly pushing themselves beyond limits.

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The loyalty of a Capricorn is almost unmatched. This sign is trustworthy and caring and gives amazing advice. Despite the Capricorn’s independence, family is important and those born under the sign are keen to take on responsibilities in a domestic setting.

WORK & HOME HABITS

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PERSONAL & PROFESSIONAL RELATIONSHIPS

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22 December – 19 January

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Capricorn

Dolly Parton ma tches her lip co lour to her nails in this striking picture from her Instag ram account.

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COVERSTORY

From Russia with love…

Immerse in the tale behind this month’s front cover – a winning competition image by a talented Russian pro…

ALEX FOX REPORTS

M E E T THE C O V ER T E C H

Yulia Vasilevskaya is 40 years of age and lives in Novorossiysk, Krasnodar Territory, Russia, with her husband and 11-year-old daughter. A keen nail competitor, Yulia has been working in the nail industry for 15 years.

Vasilevskaynail @vasilevskay_yulia

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oining the nail industry in 2005 using the Alla Bella brand, cover tech, Yulia Vasilevskaya, was excited to learn the craft of nail styling. “My mum suggested I try a nail course and her idea was a perfect fit for me. I loved it from the start,” reflects Yulia. Now, 15 years on, Yulia rents a premises in which she educates those that want to attain nail master status.

She also further educates the masters in advanced techniques.

“I’m a huge fan of Alexandra Zhukova and I work using the cropping technique, for which she is renowned for. I’m an official educator for her brand since I met her at a nail exhibition in 2018. I was delighted and learned so many new things from her. She opened up the world of nail chemistry and science for me and I became aware of the varying viscosities of the gel system. It was at this event I also bought a huge pile of nail supplies and accessories. My world really did open up and catapulted my career to a whole new level.

“After that experience, I was so motivated that I began to work and study a lot. During my 15 years in this profession, I’ve taken many classes and watched the work of many nail professionals, which has really helped me develop my skills.”

A huge fan of the almond pipeshaped nail, Yulia admits to

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

loving a long, shiny nail finish with exquisite nail art. Aquarelle and marbling techniques are her current favourite, however she’s always looking for new products and techniques to stretch her abilities and artistry. “I always try new things, although there are some products I stay loyal to since they perform so well for my needs,” she explains. “I always work with Or’iginail Fast acrygels and SoloArt gels as these ranges have a medium viscosity and are transparent.

They offer excellent adhesion to natural nails and there is a great selection of camouflage gels.

This gel system is actually sold by my parents, who have a small shop selling nail supplies.”

Competition calling The journey from nail desk and academy in Russia to UK front cover feature was a happy diversion via an online nail competition last November. When quizzed about her competition career, Yulia cites, “I thought for a long time about participating in nail competitions, but to be honest I really doubted my abilities. I felt I’d not reached the required level and so kept putting it off.

“It was a strange twist of fate that eventually led me to enter the Gothic World 2020 poster competition. However, before that particular competition, I saw another one advertised that gave me a rush of ideas,” Yulia asserts. “At the very same time I was dwelling in possibilities, a girl emailed me interested in being a hand model for my students; since my students need models and the model gets gorgeous nails for free, it’s a great partnership that I promote.

“I looked at the photo of her nails and replied that I’d be back in touch with a date to attend. Strangely, a few days later I came across the same photo on my phone and decided I wanted to see the whole hand.

She then sent another photo. The hand was perfect for competition. Getting more intrigued, I asked for a photo of her face explaining that I was looking at her as a

COVERSTORY

Further examples of Yulia Vasilevskaya’s nail work.

“I’m a firm believer in following your dreams. Don’t be afraid to dream big.”

Yulia’s top education tips

model for hands and face. Well, low and behold, I was thrilled to find she was beautiful.

I really felt that fate had sent her to me and this was my chance to participate in a competition. I then sourced an excellent makeup artist and photographer and we set to work.”

“People of all professions dream of changing their lives. People change their career path for many reasons; maybe they’re not satisfied with their salary or they simply don’t like their job. I believe everyone deserves to receive satisfaction from their everyday life and work. So, when they come to me, I make sure that I help them to change their life for the better! I take this responsibility very seriously.

The final result “I sent the image to both my mentors, Alexandra Zhukova and Elena Shanskaya. They both approved of it and so I applied for the online 2020 International Festival Greece. I then waited. I was so very nervous and then shocked to find that I had won first place. Elena Shanskaya congratulated me and told me she was disappointed that I had not entered my work into the Gothic World online competition.

At this point I thought I had nothing to lose and so I submitted the image just 10 minutes before the registration closed. Thank goodness I did – it won first place. And then this happened next…Elena Shanskaya called me and said, ‘Drop everything! Alex Fox chose your poster for the cover of the January issue of Scratch magazine’. ’. I admit I was rendered speechless and overwhelmed by emotion. I never dreamed of a magazine cover. I thank fate for providing me such happy surprises and I do now believe that dreams really do come true!”

“Each of my courses begin with an introduction. I ask my students what led them to choosing to study with me and what attracted them to the nail profession. I also ask how they plan to get started after training; will they work from home or in a salon?

“My basic course lasts 10 days; not months or years. I feel in this time period they will discover if this profession is right for them or not. It will also set them up with the necessary skills to boldly start a career as a nail professional. In this profession there’s no boundaries to your development. You can become a master tech, an educator, work on fashion shows, present demonstrations, be a brand ambassador, a nail influencer, run your own salon or be an innovator of products; basically you get to choose how deep you go and in which direction.

“I’m a firm believer in following your dreams. Don’t be afraid to dream big. I never dreamed I’d be teaching nail masters and winning poster competitions, I dreamt of a schedule I could dictate and a great salary, only when I saw what my educators were achieving, their successes, did I start to dream bigger!”

Products used are available via www.solonail.ru @solo_nail @kramarenko1849 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

TRENDVISION

PANTONE

Colour Of The Year 2021 Global colour authority, Pantone, has picked Illuminating & Ultimate Gray as its shades for 2021. HELENA BIGGS explores what this means for nails & beauty…

C

hosen to convey a message of strength and hopefulness that’s both enduring and uplifting, Pantone has chosen Ultimate Gray and Illuminating as its Colour of the Year selection for 2021.

These two independent colours ‘come together to create an aspirational colour pairing, conjoining deeper feelings of thoughtfulness with the optimistic promise of a sunshine filled day.’

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Illuminating is described as ‘a bright and cheerful yellow sparkling with vivacity, a warming yellow shade imbued with solar power’, while Ultimate Gray is ‘emblematic of solid and dependable elements, which are everlasting and provide a firm foundation. Ultimate Gray quietly assures, encouraging feelings of composure, steadiness and resilience.’

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The spirited shades have been selected as people seek ways to fortify themselves with energy, clarity and hope to overcome the continuing uncertainty.

But what does this mean for nails and beauty?

For 22 years, Pantone’s Colour of the Year has influenced product development and

26 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including fashion, furnishings and beauty, as well as product packaging and design. Over 10 million designers and producers around the world rely on Pantone to help define, communicate and control colour decisions.

“The Pantone Colour of the Year reflects what is taking place in our global culture, expressing what people are looking for that colour can hope to answer,” reveals Laurie Pressman, VP of the Pantone Colour Institute.

“As society continues to recognise colour as a critical form of communication, and a way to symbolise thoughts and ideas, many designers and brands are embracing the language of colour to engage and connect.”

The Global Colour Institute suggests that Ultimate Gray and Illuminating do not have to be used in equal proportions. Either colour can take precedence whether for beauty, furnishings or packaging. “A mix of warm and cool tones, combining Ultimate Gray and Illuminating in hair or on nails makes a dramatic statement,” reveals a spokesperson from Pantone.

“Illuminating sparkles and shimmers when paired with Ultimate Gray in eye make-up.”

“The union of an enduring Ultimate Gray with the vibrant yellow Illuminating expresses a message of positivity supported by fortitude,” adds Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute.

“Practical and rock solid but at the same time warming and optimistic, this is a colour combination that gives us resilience and hope. We need to feel encouraged and uplifted; this is essential to the human spirit.” www.pantone.com /PantoneColor @pantone @pantone

TRENDVISION

wn e at Zoe Bro tones featur Calming grey Edinburgh. e, hin orp rst Nail Salon, Co Nails by At ara Nail Ba r

Turn to page 88 to read more about the salon!

7 Nails featuring The Gel Bottle Inc in Flashing Lights

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Grey and ye Beauty Loun e Th on ssi Obse Blackpool’s

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1 Light Elegance ButterCream in Hear Me Roar £15.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 2 Gelish Soak Off Gel Polish in Liquid Frost £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com 3 OPI Infinite Shine in Suzi Talks With Her Hands £6.80 + VAT/RRP £15 www.opiuk.com 4 :YOURS Element in Silver Stone £3.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 5. Purple Professional Gel Polish in Magic Mirror £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt 6 NSI Cocktail Glitter in Piña Colada £1.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk 7 INK iLac in Sleet i-192 £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com 8 Lecenté Marble Nail Art Foil £3.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk 9 Indigo Nails Lab Acrylic Paint in Warm Yellow £2.80 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 10 Halo Create Glitter Acrylic Powder in Cairo £6.95 + VAT www.purenails.co 11 The Gel Bottle Inc Gel Polish in Flashing Lights £14.95 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com 12 Salon System Gellux in Copacabana £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 27

CAREERFOCUS

NEW YEAR…

! r e e r a c new

r & c a ta p ul te d to c se nt e ym lo p m e a ke n up th e ts to in d iv id ua ls th a t Th e p a nd e m ic ha s sh ha c L AL D N RA E O HL C r p a th s. m a ny in to ne w c a re e th e p a st 12 m o nt hs … g in ur d r to c se il na e th ha ve o p te d to e nt e r With the Covid-19 pandemic changing life as we know it, many have had a chance to reflect on their career. The number of employments furloughed in the UK peaked at 8.9 million in May 2020, with a record 314,000 people losing their job in the three months to September.

Some individuals were left with no option but to retrain while others spent time reflecting on whether they were really

doing what they wanted to do in life – and if it was time to try something different.

Changing career at any point in your life can be daunting, but some have made the move into the nail sector and are thrilled about their new role. This year will see them develop their skills and build their nail experience. Scratch welcomes them into the nail community and uncovers a little about them…

JODY ZIMMERMAN Trained at: MNB Beauty Training Academy (@mnb_beauty_training_academy) Previous career: Musical theatre performer Reason for change: “My adventure into nails was definitely a decision that would have passed me by if it weren’t for Covid-19. I have always loved the beauty industry and been fascinated by artistic make-up, face paints and nails, however I never thought it was an industry that I would ever get the chance to delve into because I was aware that it takes time and practise. My time up until now has been completely devoted to being a performer, training and then working in the musical theatre industry. Thanks to lockdown and being out of work for months, I had a lot of time on my hands when the opportunity came up!”

Biggest challenge: “A big challenge for me is that I am very impatient. I like to be good at things straight away and so I’d beat myself up if my first set of nails wasn’t perfect and I still find this now as there’s always room for improvement. It is nice to see the gradual improvement since I started training though, so it’s true that there’s no shortcut. It just takes time and practise.”

Nail inspo: “I’m inspired by all the ladies I work with because I’m so new to this world and they’re all experts at what they do, making it look so easy.”

New Year’s resolution: “This year, I hope to get all of my skills up to scratch so I can start experimenting with nail art. I’m already using glitters and I can’t wait to get more creative with new designs and patterns in lots of different colours.” @jodylzimmerman

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CAREERFOCUS SAMANTHA HASTE Trained at: NSBi Gel Polish ‘Beauty Tribe’ Previous career: Business development manager in hospitality Reason for change: “I moved from Ipswich to St Albans for a new job and my contract got revoked once they were unable to pay my salary. Since I had already moved, this left me jobless during the pandemic and I was unable to pay my bills and rent. I started to look at the other career paths I could take. I used to love the thought of doing nails for a career as a teenager and so I began pursuing it and here I am!”

Biggest challenge: “Learning the prep work has been tough, as I only have myself to practise on currently. I’m very aware that I’d be much further along if I’d had models to train on.”

Nail inspo: “I follow @harrietwestmoreland on Instagram as I love her work, and I also follow @thehotblend, @jessmaynard_nails, @saskiafenwick, @nailartbyqueenie and @hardasnails.studio.”

New Year’s resolution: “To get qualified and finally work on my first client. I want to make more friends in the nail community, support other newbies out and build up a large client base. I looking forward to the day I open up a salon.” @nailsbysamh

TIFFANY JADE HALL Trained at: NTC-Nail Technician Courses Previous career: Working at a global DIY company Reason for change: “Being on furlough allowed me time to consider my options and start thinking about a career that suited me better and that I would enjoy. I have always been very creative, and have great attention to detail. Going to the salon for an hour to have my nails done was sanctuary for me after a long week in the office and visiting factories! Now, I want to be on the other side of that, to promote the importance of self-care for men and women and have beautiful nails by Tiffany everywhere.”

Biggest challenge: “My biggest challenge has been attracting new clients. With lockdown, it has been hard to build a wellrounded portfolio of designs and techniques on two sets of hands. I feel as though the key to selling my business is the different services I provide; everyone is different and will be attracted by seeing something that appeals to them. It’s important to me that I show a varied skillset, design portfolio and also diversity of skin types and nail lengths.

“I have been extremely lucky that I had my mum and my best friend with me during lockdown, so I was practising on them a lot.

Creating beautiful nail posts is key to attracting new clients as well as building a strong social media presence. Therefore, successfully promoting my business has been slowed down by not being allowed to trade due to the pandemic.”

Nail inspo: “I absolutely love Tom Bachik’s attention to detail in creating ‘perfect’, yet simple, manicures. I also love Elize Nails as her creativity with nail design is so beautiful and it’s always so pristine!”

New Year’s resolution: “As I am new to the industry, my goals are to keep building a loyal clientele, move to being a fulltime nail technician and feel like I am the best I can be at my key focus, natural nails, before I start focusing on anything new. I would love to hit 1,000 Instagram followers. I want to be ambitious, but also realistic. It is so easy to feel like you are ‘failing’ if you set targets too high to begin with and don’t reach.” @tiffanynailsuk

“Going to the salon for an hour to have my nails done was sanctuary for me after a long week in the office and visiting factories! Now, I want to be on the other side of that.” >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

CAREERFOCUS ANJIA KOSTKA Trained at: Stonebridge College – online Previous career: Catering manager Reason for change: “My career never allowed me to fulfil my potential, but the money was great so I stuck with it for a number of years. I was afraid to take risks because if I failed I wouldn’t have anything to fall back on. Being on furlough and then being made redundant actually gave me an opportunity to take a risk without worrying about my finances. I’m so happy I decided to go for it because I love what I do now!”

Biggest challenge: “The main challenge was getting enough clients to be able to sustain myself. Owing to the pandemic, many are worried about money and leaving the house. I was lucky enough to meet amazing clients and managed to build my client base almost solely on recommendations.”

Nail inspo: “I love the works of @tiffanyabigailebeauty, @thenailladylincoln, and @nailsbab but the first person that really inspired me with her work was @bhambnails.”

New Year’s resolution: “I would really like to learn how to sculpt L&P acrylic on forms.

I currently only work with gels but I have a lot of clients that like L&P nails and they don’t want to switch. I will continue to better myself as I think it’s important to stay relevant in this profession.” @manjianails

MEGAN EMILY ROSE MAYNE

SOPHIE RAM Trained with: Independent training company, Leicester Previous career: Sales

Trained with: The Gel Bottle – Natalie Beeley Previous career: Manager at a café Reason for change: “Before training as a nail technician, I was running a local café while raising my now 12 year-old son. In August 2019, I gave birth to twins and my maternity leave ended at the beginning of April, the start of the first lockdown. The café was closed due to government guidelines and I sadly wasn’t furloughed or able to return to my old position as a fulltime manager.

Reason for change: “I managed to secure a job in sales just before Covid-19 hit and sadly I lost that job as a result of the effects of the pandemic on the company.

I have always had a passion for nails and would do nail art on my friends. I was doing my own nails for about two years until I thought I could make a business out of it.”

“I’ve always been interested in starting a career within the beauty industry, and at 19 I qualified as a hairdresser before having my son. I’ve always had the ability to paint nails but it wasn’t until a friend told me I should get my qualification and take the leap into a new career as a nail tech, that I gave it a shot.”

Biggest challenge: “Starting my business during a pandemic has been very challenging. There are changes being made constantly throughout the UK regarding lockdowns and restrictions. As a result, I have financially suffered as I rely on my income through my nail business.

I have found it very difficult to build a client base as this is already tricky when any business starts out; however, Covid-19 has made it slower. Sometimes, this can be demotivating, but I never give up and just try my hardest; that’s all I can do.”

Nail inspo: “I am inspired by Natalie Beeley @nailgalnat – she’s a fantastic teacher and she made me feel confident enough to push myself. Harriet Westmoreland @harrietwestmoreland creates the perfect French and micro French tips and Meg of @gel.bymegan, brand ambassador for The Gel Bottle, serves up stunning natural nail manicures and has an aesthetically pleasing Instagram feed.”

New Year’s resolution: “I want to perfect my application so it is flawless and work on my nail prep – I’m awaiting a delivery from Navy Professional, I can’t wait to use its tools! I would also like to take a photography course so I can have clear photos of my work and tidy up my Instagram feed.” @meganmayne_nails

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Nail inspo: “I get a lot of inspiration from Instagram, and just some of the techs I admire are @isabelmaynails, @paintedbypops_, @iramshelton and @studioonenailartistry.”

New Year’s resolution: “I want to build a sustainable client base for tru L’avenir, invest in nail art training to learn some new skills and I would love to do an e-file course.

I would also like to have a diary fully booked with clients. I would love to work closer with some nail brands and get more recognition for my work on social media.” @trulavenir

CAREERFOCUS NINA NGUYEN Trained with: Abby Jay Nail Academy, Raeya Academy in Manchester and online Zoom courses with Magpie Beauty and Glitterbels.

Previous career: Florist Reason for change: “I used to work with flowers and part of my job was making arrangements for the likes of weddings, birthdays and funerals, so I have always been creative but never thought about doing nails! I was studying accountancy while working part-time in retail then had my second baby. During my maternity leave, I decided that I wanted to do nails and I booked my first course. It is one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. I finally feel like I’ve found my place!”

Biggest challenge: “Finding the confidence and courage to go self-employed during this hard time.”

Nail inspo: “For nail art, I follow @abigails_nails and I love the work of @nailsbyalicewhite as it looks so flawless. Also, @jessrosebeauty is lovely and her work is amazing!”

New Year’s resolution: “I want to do ELIM pedicure training with Re:New Beauty and nail art courses with Magpie Beauty. My career goals for 2021 are to build up a client base and do more training.” @nails_by_niinaa

CHELSEA CROCKER Trained with: The Gel Bottle – Hannah Reynolds Previous/present career: Psychology student Reason for training: “I’ve always loved doing my own nails and only ever used to use nail polish until I decided to have a manicure with gel polish after the first lockdown.

However, I really struggled to find a nail tech local to me that offered the type of nail art that I wanted. As a result of this, the thought of becoming a nail tech myself started playing on my mind.

This quickly transpired into me searching for training options, doing lots of research and choosing colours to start my collection.

Also, at this time it was clear that I would be attending and completing university work from home for the foreseeable future so I thought about being able to use my office as a multi-use space for my at-home nail salon, which would give me the flexibility I needed, as well as doing something I’ve always enjoyed.”

Biggest challenge: “Choosing gel polish colours to start my collection has been tough! I also need more self-belief that this is something I can actually achieve and be successful at. I was overwhelmed by the thought of everything having to be perfect for opening, but I have since chilled out

a bit and listened to those around me that support me and am confident that I can make my business a success.”

Nail inspo: “I have been inspired by the creative community I have found on Instagram. When I first considered the possibility of becoming a nail tech, I was looking to see what the ‘competition’ was like. However, I actually found a community full of highly inspirational and successful business owners, which has been so refreshing. I’ve come to realise they’re not my competition, but are more like long-distance work colleagues all with similar goals and aspirations to me. It is so inspiring to see the amazing work that has been and continues to be done on social media.”

New Year’s resolution: “As a new nail tech, I’d like to work on and improve my speed. My goal is to grow my clientele, as well as my Instagram so I am able to reach more people and not just attract new clients and maintain regular clients, but to inspire other nail techs and really become a part of the ever-growing community of nail techs online.” @chelsxonails

“I need more self-belief that this is something I can actually achieve and be successful at.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

NAILTALES



INTERNATIONAL

Nail Spy Scratch’s KAT HILL explores nail & beauty trends & news in I T A L Y …

In the spotlight…

Name: Laura Cervini Job title: Nail technician & educator at Onyx Academy Business name: Nails&Lashes di Laura Cervini Location: Trieste, Italy

My story I’ve worked in the industry for six years. When I first started my business, everyone was against my decision. At the time, I was attending university, so my family was expecting me to start my career in the field I had studied. However, I was pregnant and knew I needed a job that would work around my growing family and I made the best decision for me. Loving your work is not a blessing that everyone has!

Last year, I completed a teacher training programme at Onyx Academy in Milan and became an educator. There is nothing more satisfying than sharing your passion with someone else!

Nail styles In my local area, women of all ages love to have their nails manicured in a simple yet elegant way. I offer a variety of different systems: acrylic L&P, gel, acrylgel and soak off gel polish. My most popular service is soak off gel polish with nail art.

The baby boomer style is popular as it allows for a natural look. Red is the most requested colour throughout the year: it’s elegant and suits every client.

Differences I think that the nail industry in Italy is not that different to the UK. I believe being a nail technician is a job not yet fully recognised – even if it is carried out by a talented professional and our services are in demand more than ever.

However, looking at the work of UK nail technicians, I often see elaborate nail designs that are not requested in my location, except on special occasions.

Industry insider

Italy is home to one of the biggest beauty exhibitions – Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna. Dedicated to all sectors of the beauty industry, the exhibition has been running since 1967.

In 2019, the event saw more than 260,000 visitors from 154 countries attend, as well as over 3,000 exhibitors from 70 countries across 20 exhibition halls. The expo in 2020 was postponed and is set to take place 27-31 May 2021. www.cosmoprof.com

Brand spotlight:

FABY

Created to reflect its country’s trendsetting nature, Faby offers a diverse range of nail colours – as well as nailcare products.

With headquarters in Vercelli, the brand was established by the Viale family, with Fabiana Viale as the executive vice president. With the products now distributed in over 50 countries worldwide, the brand’s top sellers are the shade, Faby’s Red, and Microfiber, a soak-off gel with micro fibres.

DID YOU KNOW?

Iconic movie star, Sophia Loren, incorporates Italy’s famous export, olive oil, into her beauty regime.

It’s reported that her Mediterranean diet ensures at least two tablespoons of the oil are consumed every day. She also applies it to her skin routinely and even adds a couple of capfuls to a hot bath!

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instagram.com/sophialoren_real

“The Italian nail industry is very tied to fashion and Italian clients usually prefer to be classic in their choices,” explains Linda Cortissone, international sales & business development. www.fabynails.com

/nailsandlashesdilaurac @laura.cervini_nailsandlashes

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INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

THE FEDS ARE HERE The nail industry welcomes The Federation of Nail Professionals; launched to give the sector a voice & strive for better standards ALEX FOX REPORTS

T

he nail industry can breathe a sigh of relief as The Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP) has arrived and the wait for representation in the sector is over. It took a pandemic, but the wait was worth it. The year of 2020 was a game changing year for all as hygiene and health & safety standards in the salon were focused upon and salons stepped up their game. It was a mammoth task, but a national lockdown gave everyone a chance to work it out.

Firm friendship is a powerful force The lockdown also brought a closer, already tight-knit relationship to a deeper footing; that relationship being between Millie Kendall MBE and Marian Newman BEM. Millie, as chair for the British Beauty Council and Marian, as the go-to nail expert and intelligence gatherer via Madge’s Chat Show Facebook group, kept in daily correspondence during the initial lockdown, which began on 23 March.

Government rules, guidelines and goal posts for the beauty, hair, nail, tattoo and spa industries were in an ever-changing chaotic ballet that needed constant intellectual dissection before delivering to the anxious nail masses. Millie and Marian worked in tandem, getting information directly from government departments such as the Department for Business, Energy & Industrial Strategy (BEIS).

It became a full-time job for the pair and a lifeline for the sector.

This served up an embryonic idea which fertilised into an organisation. All that was needed was a board of willing experts, with time, passion and the industry intellect and focus required. Not a difficult hurdle for Marian to vault, since the board members were all known industry associates and Madge’s Chat Show maestros. With board members tied into the project, each was given an area of emphasis and much work and countless Zoom meetings ensued.

The soft launch materialised on Saturday 28 November, where nail professionals were invited to sign up as supporters and to undertake an industry census survey to collect and collate much-needed, never before accumulated, nail industry data.

FNP chair, Marian Newman, cites, “I’m delighted to be presenting The Federation of Nail Professionals to the nail industry. It’s the individuals, the wider industry sector and nail communities that must come together with courage, kindness, clarity and creativity.

“The effect and impact of regulation and licensing is questionable at this time. Yet, collectively, if we applaud, recognise and embrace high levels of learning and skills and those individuals that uphold high professional ethics, we can lead by example and show what is great about this industry.

Madge the maestro

“We must choose our battles wisely, as they can’t all be fought at once. The FNP, its members, supporters, collaborators and experts can be that voice, fight those battles and make the industry a better place now and in the future.”

As the year unfolded into deeper confusion, with multiple tiers, fournation initiatives, mini lockdowns and a quick summer virus-vacation, it became clear the ever-growing Madge’s Facebook group was fuelling a full-time focus that was leading towards a door marked – Federation! Marian assessed the landscape, read the signs, felt the industry atmosphere and knew it was time for the nail industry to take its place at the executive table – to get its recognition at government level and get representation from experts of its own.

The FNP offers membership packages, a strict code of ethics, resources, support, representation, think tanks and industry data.

In addition, it will serve up webinars, guidelines and a unique education network and path, as well as occupational standards and a register with star ratings of educators. Topical news and features will be presented as well as collaborations with industry authorities such as the British Beauty Council, Habia and BABTAC.

THE FNP VISION

The nail industry became a career route in its own right nearly two decades ago, when it separated from beauty in the regulated qualifications. However, as an industry, poor quality education has proliferated and you can become a ‘professional nail tech’ in a few hours. Non-compliant and, essentially, illegal products have also become acceptable.

The world has changed and is going to continue to change. Never more so has the nail industry needed a strong voice. The FNP will fight for standards, quality and celebrate the ‘best’. It will collaborate with the most powerful industry bodies in the sector and together, the collective voice will be powerful. Its approach is different. It has chosen its fights; ones that will make a difference. Its focus is on the professional nail industry only.

Many exciting projects are underway, all for the good of the industry and next year will see many official projects and initiatives born with the nail sector being represented at the highest level.

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INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

THE FNP BOARD – MEET THE FEDS Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Marian is a veteran of 30+ years who has worked in every aspect of the nail industry. She’s an author of seven textbooks including The Complete Nail Technician and sits on the advisory board of the British Beauty Council. She was awarded the British Empire Medal for ‘services to the industry during Covid-19’.

Jennie Nippard has over 22 years’ experience in the nail industry, with over 15 of those in the education sector.

Jennie owns Herts Academy of Beauty and is deputy head of education for Glitterbels, while also working as an international session nail artist.

“I’m so excited to be a founding director of The FNP. I’ve always known that our industry has been lacking in regulation, however when we went into lockdown, I truly realised how desperate the industry was for representation, guidance and a voice. I had conversations with Marian about what could be done to change this and how we could raise industry standards from within.

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies Sue has worked in the nail and beauty sectors for 18 years within trade association management, international competition management, is a judge and educator.

Sue is an award-winning salon owner, writer and a recognised industry advocate.

“As a teacher, I’m aware that great education is crucial to making a difference. So, I’m extremely happy that with Licence To Teach, the FNP will celebrate excellent educators who are passionate and aware of the huge responsibility that their position entails. We’re responsible for raising standards in the industry right from the grass roots level and together we can make a difference.”

“Having worked on a couple of association organisations previously, I’m blown away by what the FNP has achieved in the last few months and the initial support it’s already gained with our collaborators,” she comments. “This industry has been crying out for a voice for a long time.”

Director of education – Donna Clayton Donna has been in the industry for 22 years and helps salon owners to set up their training academies post completion of teaching qualifications. She coaches existing academies to reach their revenue and business goals. Standards are a huge driving force within her ethos and business.

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells Alexandra is an award-winning nail artist with nine years’ industry experience and a history of exemplary professional client services. Alex is also a Habia champion and session artist at London and NYFW.

“I’m extremely thankful for the opportunity to be part of an industry changing event,” she comments. “A good shake up is long overdue, and the industry is demanding a change on many levels from education right through to best practice and The FNP is up to the task. It has many projects well underway that will tackle industry-wide issues and finally give a voice to the nail industry at the highest level.”

“I’ve had some amazing opportunities in the nail industry, and I’m so happy and humbled to work with this incredible team and give something back. We all share the same drive to help lift the industry out of its current situation and I know there are many out there that share that passion; they just need a platform, which we believe the FNP will provide.

“I’ll be looking after memberships and will help everyone who shares our passion and wants to join us. The ongoing pandemic has made it even more visible where the gaps are in standards, confidence and education, and by forming the FNP we want to empower everyone working in the industry, no matter what level, to play their part in improving these critical areas.”

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg Peter Borg is an entrepreneur and founder of numerous businesses within retail, hospitality and e-comms. He’s owner of an award-winning salon, a growth strategy specialist and public speaker.

“The whole industry is in need of a voice, it needs to be understood and we need more exposure on how amazing, creative and talented everyone is. As a salon owner who prides himself in our salon standards and protocols, the lack of regulations across the industry is frustrating and collaboratively we will be pushing hard to create consistency throughout.”

“It’s the individuals, the wider industry sector and nail communities that must come together with courage, kindness, clarity and creativity.”

Marian Newman BEM

NEXT STEPS

Get to the FNP home page, sign up as a supporter, read the Code of Ethics, take the relevant industry census (home page), view the membership possibilities, support and join.

YOUR INDUSTRY NEEDS YOU…

A supporter membership is the perfect way to remain connected to the FNP. This membership is great for fans of nails who want to be first in line for information on behind-the-scenes developments and projects.

www.the-fnp.com #TheFedsAreHere /TheFNPUK

@the_fnp_

@the_fnp_ SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

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NAILSYSTEMSPOTLIGHT

The perfect

match

Uncover which clients should be indulging in your gel system & ensure their nail style goes the distance with products to meet their needs

O

ffering opportunities to strengthen, sculpt and enhance, the ‘traditional’ gel system is a popular choice for those seeking a hardwearing, long-lasting and glossy nail finish.

Proffering similar benefits to L&P but with added flexibility and a low odour, it boasts a multitude of uses: natural nails can be enhanced with an overlay to add strength, while clients seeking length can benefit from application with a tip or via sculpting with a form.

Gels are durable, retentive and ideal for clients with hard, brittle nails that require resilient protection. “Gel can withstand knocks, and if it were to break it is unlikely to cause trauma to the natural nail,” comments Tracy Nash of Vu Nail Systems. “As well as overlays and enhancements, gel is ideal for encapsulating glitter and pigments.”

“Hard gel is perfect for clients that have their hands in water regularly, such as hairdressers or those working in healthcare,” comments Kirsty Smitheman, Pure Nails educator.

“It’s ideal for clients with healthy nails or those that have oily nail plates. As the

product is odourless, it’s great for techs working in small spaces or on a mobile basis.”

If you struggle with mixing acrylic ratios, gel is likely the system to suit. What’s more, you don’t have the pressures of limited time before cure as you do with L&P – as the gel is malleable until you decide to cure in your system’s lamp.

“Every brand’s gel range has a different consistency, so it’s important to understand the properties that will work for you,” continues Kirsty. “You may find you like a gel that hardly self levels so you can create your nail structure more easily, or you may prefer a gel with a thinner viscosity so you are able to move it around more. A good brush will support your application. A flat gel brush will offer a crisp back wipe, whereas a rounded gel brush may make application near the cuticle easier.”

UV curable, with an increasing number of products being brought to market that are LED curable, the gel system is ideal for extreme or long styles, or those who seek enhancements for a special occasion due to the nature of the removal. They may not be as suited to clients that desire a new shade or style regularly; consider soft, soak off alternatives or gel polish instead.

Kirsty Smitheman

DID YOU KNOW? UV gels were originally derived from the dental industry where UV-cured materials are used to seal teeth.

However, these types of nail coatings have been specifically adapted for use in the nail industry.

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NAILSYSTEMSPOTLIGHT

THE SCIENCE FILES

Molecules link together to create a long chain called a polymer in the process of polymerisation. Likened to ‘a game of tag’ by esteemed scientist, Doug Schoon, the monomers pass their energy to their neighbour by attaching themselves to the tail of another monomer. This reaction Doug Schoon replicates and the long polymer chains only stop when there are no more monomers. Through this, these chains become knotted and unable to move.

To create a strong and flexible enhancement, the monomers often used by brands are cross-linkers. Joining head-to-tail and arm-to-arm, they create a net-like, three-dimensional structure.

For gel, the initiator for polymerisation is light emitted by UV or LED. A photo initiator in the resin reacts with wavelengths emitted via a lamp, converting it into the energy needed for the polymerisation process, resulting in the finished cure.

Gel gets its namesake’s texture from its monomers. Pre-joined into short chains called oligomers, these shorter chains mean the polymerisation process is sped up.

TOP TIP

Keep your gel products at room temperature and in a drawer – away from sunlight – to prevent them from curing.

Temperatures too hot or too cold can affect the viscosity of the gel and make it difficult to work with.

Image courtesy of Light Elegance Nail Products,

“All types of gel, including nail enhancements and all types of gel polish, are based on monomers and oligomers from the acrylic family,” explains Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Marian Newman Technician. “Mostly, these types of products rely on two types of acrylic; the acrylates and methacrylates. Acrylates are primarily used in UV-cure nail coatings, while methacrylates are primarily used in monomer and polymer systems, but also in more advanced gel systems.”

The importance of the lamp All UV/LED gel systems use the same chemistry to cure, but that does not mean they are the same. A helpful analogy to understand this was put forward by Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician who explained that while cakes are made and cooked in the same way, it doesn’t mean that all cakes are the same. There are many different ingredients that may be used to create many varieties of cakes and this is the same for gel formulas. As a result, this is why it is important to use the same brand for the gel and the lamp to ensure a proper cure – and limit effects such as shorter durability and risk of allergy.

When a UV/LED gel is subjected to UV/LED energy, the heat that is created must be controlled to prevent damage to the sensitive nail bed tissues. Often, when gels are poorly formulated, applied incorrectly or the wrong nail lamp is used, they can create a very strong heat (exothermic) release.

The effects of undercuring A proper cure cannot be seen or felt. Anything less than a 90% cure at this stage can easily result in a service breakdown and has a higher incidence of skin allergies due to unreacted ingredients, which will be in the dusts generated while filing or released into the solvents during removal at a later date.

The effects of overcuring The most immediate effect is often a sharp and intense heat felt in the nail bed, known as a heat spike. This is caused by UV/LED energy being too high and causing too rapid a cure, which releases too much heat in too short a period of time.

This can be painful and often frightening for the client. The nail bed can be burnt sufficiently to pull away from the nail plate.

This can result in separation of the nail plate from the nail bed which leaves the nail bed open to infection.

French ombré gel application courtesy of Purple Professional.

There is also the chance of getting a heat spike if a layer is applied too thickly. In general, gel application requires several thin layers, rather than one thick layer. Applying too thick a layer can cause the upper layers to overcure and leave the lower part of the applied layer undercured. Overcuring can also make the coating more difficult to remove.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 41

>>

available via www.sweetsquared.com

UV/LED gels are a two-part system. Even though they are premixed into a single component, they still require exposure to the proper wavelengths of UV/LED energy at the correct intensities and for the proper length of time.

NAILSYSTEMSPOTLIGHT

THE BIG BUILD Doing exactly as its name suggests, builder gels help to ‘build’ nail shape and add length owing to their high viscosity and strength. Recent years have seen the traditional builder gel formula make its way into a bottle with a handy brush to ease application.

Often used as a base for heavy handed clients, these gels can be used in the same way as the pot formula – to add strength or create enhancements with tips or via sculpting. Most builder gels – whether in pot or bottle-withbrush, are available in shades of peach and pink; ideal for creating a French finish or natural looking nail, as well as the versatile clear hue.

Karen Louise

“Builder gel in a bottle is amazing for someone wanting to add strength to the natural nail or support its growth,” comments Karen Louise, Salon System nail expert.

“It offers such a natural look but strong enough also to extend the nails either using a nail tip or sculpting. It’s better for nail pickers and biters as it adds more support to the natural nail.”

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Baby boomer nails with a touch of sparkle created by House 4 Ladies, Denmark, using the NSI Balance Gel System.

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15

1 Cuccio Brush-On Colour Builder Gel £11.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk 2 Nails by @fificrossnails using Madam Glam Soak Off Builder Gel Polish, available via www.madamglam.com 3 The Gel Bottle Inc Builder In A Bottle in Aurora £16.99 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com 4 Purple Professional Builder Gel in Glass Clear £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt 5 INK London iJel Hard Builder Gel in Clear from £8.33 inc VAT www.inknails.com 6 Salon System Gellux Builder Gel in Light Pink £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

7 En Vogue Simply Smooth Gel in Blush £POA www.envoguenails.com 8 Lecenté Create Builder Gel £15.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk 9 NSI Balance LED/UV Builder Gel in Blush from £12.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk 10 Light Elegance JimmyGel £19.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com 11 NSI Size 5 Touch Tip Kolinsky Brush £21.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk 12 Bio Sculpture Hard Gel £16.50 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk 13 Halo EasiBuild in Cover Up Pink from £7.99 inc VAT www.purenails.co 14 Indigo Nails Easy Shape Builder Gel in Light Rose £14 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk 15 Astonishing Nails 1-step Brush Builder Kit £95 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

NAILSYSTEMSPOTLIGHT

Sculpt While you can sculpt with builder gels, specific sculpting gels tend to lack self-levelling properties and boast a thicker viscosity than their builder counterparts, so are perfect for longer enhancements and extreme shapes.

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SPOTLIGHT ON… CND™ Brisa Gel CND™ education ambassador, Sarah Marr, reveals the clients best suited to Brisa Gel enhancements…

“Clients suiting a traditional gel system like CND™ Brisa usually require some flexibility from their enhancement Sarah Marr coating. They may have hard, brittle nails or just need a little extra strength in the form of an overlay.

CND™ Brisa™ Gel Sculpting Gel (42g) £55.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

“The advantage of CND™ Brisa Gel is its durability and resilience.

It also has the benefit of the acetone resistant Brisa Gloss Top Coat, which is amazing for a nail professional’s personal use.

“CND™ Brisa Gels are very versatile. They can be used for natural nail overlays, to fix a broken nail or to create beautiful natural or forever French enhancements. You can also create your own custom blends using pigments and glitters to tailor them to your client’s skin tone and preference.

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“The amazing thing about working with gel is that there’s no cure until you place the hand in the lamp, so you have plenty of time to perfect each nail. Be careful not to over work your product though, as this can cause bubbles and the product can become runny.

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CND Brisa™ Gloss Top Coat £22.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

“Clients with very weak or flexible nails would have more success with liquid & powder enhancements, but otherwise, the CND™ Brisa world is your oyster!”

CND™ ProSeries Gel Flat Square Brush #6 £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

CND™ Future Form Roll £35.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com This sturdy, mouldable form has been created to optimise the use of CND™ Brisa Gel and features a grid with guidelines to achieve your enhancement goals.

The client files 1 Bio Sculpture UV Sculpting Gel £16.50 + VAT www.renewbeauty.co.uk 2 En Vogue Simply Sculpt Gel £POA www.envoguenails.com Sculpt is a clear gel with a thick viscosity and is great for long nails end extreme lengths.

3 Purity UV Sculpting Gel in Clear £16.99 + VAT www.purenails.co

Tilly, a client of RJ Vu salon, Leigh-on-Sea, reveals why Vu Nails Hard Gel is her product of choice…

“I’ve experienced a number of different products on my nails, to the point where they weren’t in great condition. When I started going to RJ Vu salon in Leigh-on-Sea, the team told me that the products they use in the salon were formulated by Vu Shine One Phase UV them, and they selected the Vu Nails One Phase UV Hard Gel. Hard Gel £15 inc VAT

www.vunailsystems.com

“I had been an L&P acrylic lover for some time and wasn’t sure about changing to gel but I’m so glad it was recommended to me. My initial gel appointment was five years ago and I visit the salon every three weeks for gel enhancements.

“I volunteer at a dog grooming salon so my hands are in and out of water and my gel nails always withstand the work as well as my day to day life. I’m a heavy-handed person and not once have I had a damaged, chipped or broken nail. No tips, no acrylic; just Vu Nail Systems One Phase UV Gel on top of my natural nails.”

SPOTLIGHT ON… Gelish Hard Gel

Monika Kupien,‘ master educator at Georgie Smedley Group, shares the benefits of Gelish Hard Gel…

‘ Nails by Monika Kupien

Monika Kupien‘

“Gelish Hard Gel is easy to apply and easy to file, with no strong odour and unlimited play time to allow for perfect application. This medium viscosity gel is self-levelling, and holds a C-curve with the lightning quick cure of LED light.

“Gelish Hard Gel offers amazing adhesion to the natural nail and is available in a wide range of shades; from cover pinks to translucent pinks, whites and crystal clear.”

Gelish Size 6 Oval Gel Gelish LED Builder Gel in Clear £19.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Brush £17.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

>>

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NAILSYSTEMSPOTLIGHT

SPOTLIGHT ON… Light Elegance Gel

Light Elegance Lexy Line Fiber in Natural Pink (50g) £52.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Victoria Trafford, Light Elegance education ambassador, reveals her love of the brand’s gel offerings…

Victoria Trafford

Light Elegance offers Lexy Hard Gel, Color Gels, Glitter Gels, the JimmyGel Brush On Builder Gel and ButterCream.

“Light Elegance gels have a superb mix of strength and flexibility meaning there is something for everyone. Each of the gels has a different level of flexibility, meaning you can customise your service depending on your client’s nail type,” comments Victoria.

Light Elegance Lexy Line 1-Step Clear Gel (50g) £52.45 +VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Lexy Hard Gel is free of HEMA monomers and is made up of six hard gel products to give the nail professional complete control and creativity to achieve the desired nail result. One of the brand’s best-selling ranges, the Lexy Line can add structure, build and extend to create nail finishes that last over four weeks.

A variety of pink and white shades are available to suit every skin tone, with the choice of paint-on or sculpting viscosities. Lexy Line hard gels are best suited to clients that require extended wear, longer extensions or are simply committed to wearing gel nails all of the time.

“Light Elegance Fiber is perfect for sculpting out the extension edge for heavy-handed clients who just need a little bit more strength and structure.”

Light Elegance’s range of Color and Glitter hard gels are highly pigmented and feature over 200 shades with crème, glitter, shimmer and frost finishes. Four on-trend collections in both Color Gel and Glitter Gel are released each year. Packed with sparkle, the Glitter Light Elegance Foil Forms Gel retains its eye-catching effect until removal and can be (300 roll) £13.95 +VAT applied over the brand’s hard gel, acrylic or JimmyGel if desired. www.sweetsquared.com “Gel is incredibly versatile. Not only does it allow me to showcase my creativity, it cuts down my service time due to its viscosity. You can create long and short enhancements, natural nail overlays, nail art and encapsulate! It is important to maintain your gels to protect the integrity of the natural nail by rebalancing the structure. With Light Elegance, there is a gel for every nail type.”

Light Elegance It’s All About Me Glitter Gel Collection £88.95 + VAT (£18.95 + VAT each) www.sweetsquared.com

Light Elegance The Art Of Kissing ButterCream collection £76.45 + VAT (£15.45 + VAT each) www.sweetsquared.com

Light Elegance Bling Brush in #4 Oval £10.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

DID YOU KNOW…?

The ButterCream gels were launched in the summer of 2017 and offer smooth, effortless application. ButterCreams are easy to control and provide one-coat overlays. Ideal for creating detailed art designs, there are over 100 crème, glitter, shimmer and frost shades available in the ButterCreams range, with each jar performing up to 40 services.

ButterCreams can be applied over JimmyGel, Lexy Line hard gels or acrylic enhancements if desired. Agitate the product with your brush for fast, thin overlays, or apply straight from the jar for detailed artwork.

Troubleshooting: Breaks & lifts

“Do not apply too much product onto the nail, as when the layer of gel is thick, it can prevent a proper cure,” comments Youri Vaisse, owner at Madam Glam. “This softness can make nails break easily, so ensure you work in thin layers and build up as the colour permits.

“To prevent lifting, always make sure there is a tiny margin along the cuticle and sidewalls between the product and the skin and cap the Youri Vaisse free edge with each layer you apply. This provides a protective seal around the tip and sides of the nail where chipping and peeling usually begin.”

44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Light Elegance EA and three times Scratch Stars Awards winner, Jo Wickens, created this nail design using Light Elegance ButterCreams and Color Gels.

TOP TIP

Keep pots and bottles clean of excess product by wiping with cleanser to prevent lids from sticking and product from leaking.

Indigo Nails Cleaner £13 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk

NAILSYSTEMSPOTLIGHT

SPOTLIGHT ON… TGB Gel Pots Glean an insight into working with The Gel Bottle’s GelPots and learn more about their benefits…

The Gel Bottle’s GelPots offer a high viscosity (a thicker density), making them ideal for sculpting over TGB Forms for extending and shaping longer nails, over TGB Clear Tips for a tip & overlay service or an overlay for strength and surface smoothness on natural nails.

The TGB GelPot range contains no base or primer, although it is advised to use a layer of TGB Rubber Base on the nails before applying GelPot product.

The GelPots are designed for sculpting and when the TGB White GelPot us used in tandem with French tips, it affords a superior French finish. A more natural look can also be created when choosing one of its nude shades and finished with the TGB Extreme Shine Top Coat. TGB Clear GelPot is ideal for building clear extensions and can be used to create a ‘jelly/glass’ look by applying a TGB Glass Polish of your choice and TGB Extreme Shine Top Coat.

Sadie Jordan, nail expert & content creator for ‘ comments, The GelBottle Inc & Peacci “TGB GelPots are hard wearing and can create long durable extensions or for those with thin bendy nails, you can create an overlay on the natural nail to promote growth or just enhance the strength of their nail. It’s also great for Sadi Jordan clients with allergies or sensitivities to acrylic or even just ones who don’t like the smell of acrylic monomer.

“None of the TGB GelPots require primer or dehydrator and the formula is self-levelling. Try to avoid applying too much product in the cuticle and sidewall area of the nail for a less bulky and more natural-looking enhancement.” All TGB GelPots are file-off products, which can be removed by the TGB e-File or with a TGB 120/180 grit file or infill for regular clients.

TGB GelPots £22.99 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com

Troubleshooting: Bubbles “Common issues with hard gel can be air bubbles in the gel,” comments Kirsty Smitheman, Pure Nails educator. “Do not overwork gel or pat it as this will introduce air into the product and lead to cracks or stress points in the nail. Use a light touch with your brush and let the product level as much as possible.”

Another common issue with hard gel can be heat spikes.

“These can be quite painful and may put a client off having gel enhancements,” continues Kirsty. “To avoid this you must always use your brand’s recommended light as this will have been tested to use with the system. Using any other light may cause curing problems, undercuring, overcuring or heat spikes. Make sure you do not apply the gel too thick to get your nail shape done in one go.

As the chemical bonds are being formed there is an exothermic reaction; the more gel that is applied, the great the number of bonds being formed, running the risk of the heat spike.”

TOP TIP

‘ Klaudia Kalwasinska

“Work with gel calmly and smoothly and only apply the product needed in the manner you have been taught.

Don’t scrimp on nail prep and do not use gel if the client’s nail plate is damaged or filed too much.” ‘ Indigo Nails educators, Klaudia Kalwasinska & Katarzyna Wojtczak

Katarzyna Wojinczak

This green and gold vine design comes courtesy of @paiwaloves, a gel specialist.

She used Bio Sculpture Gel in Lyrics Of A Lily as a base colour with green and black gels for the vines and gold foil to finish.

TGB Brushes from £9 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com

The client files

Deanna Stemaschuk, En Vogue ambassador, shares why En Vogue gels were the perfect fit for an extension-seeking client…

Deanna Stemaschuk

“I’ve had a client for six years and when she first came to me, she told me that she was looking to get nail extensions. She revealed that gel nails rarely stayed on her and she would prefer L&P acrylic. I didn’t perform acrylic services at the time because the spa I was working at didn’t want the odours in the air. We decided to proceed with gel extensions.

“While I was able to get the gel to adhere to her nails with proper prep, she was having lifting issues as the system I originally used was very hard. The product was too firm for her thin nail plate so I moved on to using En Vogue gels. The flexible gels helped alleviate her lifting. The gel moved with her nail when she’d hit or bang them rather than staying too firm. I had finally found the perfect product for my thin nail plate client. She and I have been loyal fans of En Vogue gels ever since.” www.envoguenails.com

TOP TIP

“Common issues with gel involve rushing through prep and not prescribing the appropriate gel for your client’s nail type. I would always rather spend an extra five minutes on prep to ensure that I have an immaculate base before application,” comments Victoria Trafford, Light Elegance EA. “Using the right tools and having sufficient lighting certainly help with this.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

How to beat the January blues

NHBF chief director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries.

The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019.

With Tina Beaumont-Goddard as the chief director, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty salons. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-for-profit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

W

ith 2020 behind us, now is the time to make plans for your business in order to reap success in this new year.

We don’t underestimate the challenges ahead and we know from our industry surveys that many businesses are still unsure if they will survive past the end of the financial year in April. With that in mind, I would urge everyone in the industry to ensure they understand all the financial help that is still available across the four nations. For the most upto-date information, visit nhbf.co.uk/financial-support.

NHBF members who are struggling can call the membership team for help and information or the 24/7 legal team for in-depth advice.

This is a wonderfully creative and dedicated industry, and there are steps that salons can take to ensure they have the best possible chance to survive and thrive. Many of these are no cost or low-cost and some, including becoming a more sustainable business, could help to attract more clients, lower your outgoings and increase your profits.

Go green The New Year is traditionally quieter for salons after the Christmas rush, so is a good time to make an action plan for your business.

Choosing more sustainable ways to run your salon or business will not only save you money, for example in utility bills, but will also help attract new clients who are actively looking for more eco-friendly products and services.

www.nhbf.co.uk /nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

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Our top tips include: • Ask your local council for recycling info and advice.

• Choose products that come in biodegradable or recyclable packaging.

• Have clearly labelled recycling stations at strategic locations in your salon.

• Use biodegradable bags instead of plastic when selling retail products.

• Use biodegradable disposable towels.

• Switch to a green energy supplier.

• Use LED bulbs and lower your heating by 1°C.

The NHBF’s campaigning work includes fighting for eco-friendly products and services for our industry. Find out more about the campaign and how to implement more sustainable practises via our website.

Motivate your staff Even during normal times, the New Year can be a bit of a downer as the January blues set in.

Remotivate your staff so they’re ready to go for the year ahead. This will ensure they feel valued and will encourage loyalty to your salon business.

Consider: • Discounts on retail products.

• A regular ‘employee of the month’ competition.

• Friendly competition between team members, for example, highest retail sales and rebooking rates.

• Remembering staff birthdays with a high street or coffee shop voucher.

NHBF members can use special offers from NHBF Rewards to treat staff. The scheme is the latest way to help you save money through a range of offers and discounts online. Find out more: nhbf.co.uk/rewards If a senior team member leaves, consider an internal promotion as this demonstrates to everyone that progression is possible and that you reward hard work and achievement. NHBF members can download a free in-depth guide to managing staff performance via our website.

Training plans Another way to make positive plans for 2021 is to put a training schedule in place for your team.

Look out for low-cost options including both online training and in-house training. Don’t forget that staff members that have attended paid-for courses can then share their new knowledge and skills with the rest of the team.

If you’re worried about staff members leaving after their training, NHBF employment contracts (nhbf.co.uk/contracts), which are free for members to use, set out how much your employee will have to pay towards training if they resign during or shortly after a course you have paid for.

COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

Trials & Triumphs in

12 months Scratch catches up with the team at Staffordshire Nail Academy & reflects on its growth & challenges faced during a turbulent year for businesses CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

T

he coronavirus pandemic has presented a number of challenges to businesses across all sectors, particularly those new and eager to grow. When Scratch spoke to Hannah and Andy Garbett, founders of Staffordshire Nail Academy, a year ago, they were on the verge of moving to new premises and expanding their team. March 2020 saw them move into their new site – and then the first lockdown hit.

“After spending many years tucked away, we wanted to make a statement with our new premises,” Hannah comments. “The building does just that; it’s in an easy-to-find location on a main road and has great public transport amenities so is extremely accessible. However, it has been a massive challenge to move premises and keep the business alive while being forced into national lockdowns.”

Eager to thrive and make the most of the new premises, despite not being able to host customers and students, Hannah and Andy released the Quick Tips system and began to offer online training. “After working and training for another full coverage tips brand and listening to feedback, Andy and I felt that some changes needed to be made,” Hannah reveals.

“We considered price point, product availability and many other factors before we launched Quick Tips.”

The full cover enhancement system, available in a variety of tip shapes and lengths, allows techs to create a desired look at speed. It also offers a great base for nail art. “We launched Quick Tips at exactly the right time, as had we not, our business would not have survived the lockdown,” Hannah admits. “So many techs started using Quick Tips to create press-on nails for their clients. With the reduced speed per set, the training was also a massive contribution to our success because techs wanted to be prepared on their return to work to cut down contact time with clients, but to also create quality nails.”

Over 250 nail techs were trained to apply Quick Tips during lockdown on the SNA Full Cover Gel Extensions course. With the support of ABT, Hannah created an online course due to face-to-face training being impossible. The classes were held live via Zoom and educators explained and carried out live demonstrations on application, removal, tips and tricks for different nail types. Each educator assessed the tech while watching live.

Video tutorials for techs that have taken the course are also provided for future reference, along with continued product and technical support.

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The SNA premises

“We have quadrupled in size, meaning we can have a designated training area set up in a salon style to give students a more ‘real’ experience of working life,” Hannah reveals. “All desks are fully equipped with products and electrical devices to use on their training days. Our training days generally run Monday to Wednesday, enabling students to gain experience the rest of the week in our nail salon. The ground floor of the building is home to all the stock that trade professionals can purchase.

“We wanted the design of our academy to be fresh, bright and inviting. The right lighting when learning such an intricate craft is essential. With the majority of our building being glass fronted, we wanted to continue to bring the outside in, so we introduced flower walls and greenery to enhance our décor.”

The history…

Hannah and Andy Garbett founded Staffordshire Nail Academy in 2016 after they closed their salon, Flutterby’s, to focus on training and salon supplies. Hannah had spent the previous six years educating for a well-known brand, and as a result, had been given the opportunity to open a trade store for nail supplies in the Midlands.

“It was always in the back of my mind to be an ‘all under one roof’ style of business and offer techs in the area quality training and products,” reveals Hannah.

In 2018, the business became a limited company. The SNA team felt that customers needed more options than one brand could deliver, and so the portfolio expanded. SNA widened its scope to offer the Astonishing Nails and Nail Perfect brands.

Hannah and Andy have expanded further with a training academy that offers a variety of courses as well as distributing products for a wide number of brands.

COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

Meet Hannah & Andy Garbett Hannah is head of education at Staffordshire Nail Academy and is heavily involved in product development. She loves creating new education programmes and classes to keep nail techs up-to-date with what is current in the industry.

Andy is methodical and loves bringing product launches to life and developing the branding. Seeing something develop from an initial idea to then sitting on the shelf for purchase gives him a real buzz.

Andy and Hannah both take a keen interest on nail trends and what is sparking the interest of nail techs. They love sourcing new products from the brands they distribute while also developing their own.

Their roles in the business cover everything from cleaning the toilets, stocking shelves, picking and packing orders to educating, brand relations, designing and developing new products.

What’s next?

In 2021, the SNA team aims to continue to grow its portfolio of industry-loved products, and has some exciting new product launches from Astonishing Nails, Nail Perfect, Jacky M Amsterdam and SNA in the pipeline.

Staffordshire Nail Academy distributes products from the following brands: • Astonishing Nails • SNA Professional • Kiara Sky • Swarovski • Nail Perfect • MoYou London • Mundo • BCL Spa • Flexifinger • Glam and Glits Nail Design • Pro Impressions • SNA Professional - Pro Bits • Jacky M Amsterdam • Saeyang • Staffordshire Nail Academy Ltd - Training

After taking on board customer’s feedback, a new website has been launched; featuring an easier platform to use with the help of Online Marketing Surgery which has been currently running the SEO marketing.

Hannah and Andy will continue to grow their education team throughout the UK with like-minded team members delivering, in their words, ‘training with pride’.

Brand ambassadors

“By the end of January, we will be revealing a brand ambassador programme with a twist,” Hannah comments. “We feel that the roles of brand ambassadors need a shake up for 2021.

For more information about SNA’s training and salon supplies, visit www.snaprofessional.co.uk /staffordshirenailacademyuk @sna_nailacademy @sna_professional

“We are currently working through an immense amount of candidates who have applied to become part of our new brand ambassador uptake. At SNA, we always love to be a little bit different from the rest and tying in with our integrity ethos, we want this to be our main drive with this new venture. Applicants are working very hard behind the scenes as we speak, to bring a new and exciting spin of transparency to the industry.

Watch this space as our team of ambassadors will be revealed shortly.”

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

GROW & GLOW WITH

e i d d a M H i everyone! My name is Maddie Regan and I am so excited to have been asked to be a columnist for Scratch magazine for 2021.

I’m looking forward to sharing my insights into running a busy salon and inspiring you with stunning nail art – as well as sharing some business tips over the next 12 months.

I work at 81 Rose Garden in Newcastle-under-Lyme. It’s a familyowned business and a one-stop shop for hair, nails, beauty, tanning and aesthetics. It was founded by my mother, Jennifer Regan – an award-winning hairdresser turned interior designer who cleverly created our luxurious salon nearly four years ago.

Above all else, anyone visiting 81 Rose Garden is instantly hit by the elaborate interior décor. It’s nearly 3,000sq ft, with different spaces and experiences for nails, hair, tanning, beauty and aesthetics treatments. It’s a wonderland of florals, golds, marabou feathers and luxury velvet in one fabulous eclectic mix.

Having worked under business owners for many years, our main aim at 81 Rose Garden was to create a platform for other stylists and beauticians to be themselves and project their flair and individuality. This has resulted in the creation of an incredibly artistic and forward-thinking salon that has attracted both a loyal and broad mix of clients.

You could say that I started my career at the age of 15. I was still at school and practised

Talented salon tech, nail artist & educator, MADDIE REGAN, shares her advice on salon matters to help your business bloom… hair and nails mainly on friends and family.

By the age of 16, alongside studying for my A-Levels, I worked as a receptionist at a tanning salon, saving enough money to buy the equipment, furniture and accessories for my own nail business after first honing my craft at a local salon. Now, eight years on, I am more passionate about the business than ever before and I regularly share my knowledge at my nail academy events.

Concept & direction When we first came up with the concept of 81 Rose Garden, I was so excited that I threw myself into working seven days a week for the first nine months.

Once fully opened, I spent the next four months learning all aspects of the trade.

The business was a huge success and has continued to grow. We now have 16 people working for us at 81 Rose Garden. The team includes five hair stylists and one apprentice stylist, as well as five nail technicians and two brow technicians, one of whom is also trained in microblading and make-up services. We also have a lash technician and a qualified aesthetics practitioner.

For me, it is all about the nails – and at 81 Rose Garden, we have got it going on! Perfectly polished nails will instantly make an individual feel chic and confident. We pride ourselves on our professionalism, artistry and attention to detail, whether it is a lunch break mini manicure, a full mani-pedi experience or a show-stopping nail art creation, which is, of course, our forté!

It seems that we’ve become well known for our hand painted artwork and avant-garde designs, so 81 Rose Garden has become one of the top trending destinations for nail art aficionados in the local area.

If you are searching for a little inspiration, check out the nail looks on my Instagram page and look out for me here in the pages of Scratch, where I will be sharing my tips and nail know-how with you every month. I can’t wait!

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/81RoseGarden

Maddie x

@maddisonrosenails & @81rosegarden

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

Sparkles by name & nail design – get to know Lincs-based tech, JULIE BRYAN of Sparkles Julie, who shares her story & stylish creations

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Julie Bryan Age – 61 years Business name – Sparkles Julie Location – My home salon is in Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire Years in nails – Eight years Trained with – CND™ via Sweet Squared Fav products – I’m currently using Magpie Beauty, Nailchemy and Gelica Gel products. I love glitters from Magpie Beauty and Artiglio, a brand from the USA. Fav nail technique – I like using full coverage tips and enjoy creating artistic looks using chromes, foils and ombré techniques.

Career highlights – I have been blessed to be a part of a number of Fashion Week nail teams; the most memorable being in Paris as part of the Liza Smith Runway Team and for Nickie Rhodes-Hill at a Ralph & Russo show. I have worked alongside some amazing names in the industry and travelled to LA to work on the TV show, Botched. I now have my own London Fashion Week team and am so grateful for all the opportunities that this industry has given me.

Who do you admire in the industry?

I admire many techs; each for different reasons. These include Katie Barnes, Sheffield-based tech, @indiglownails and Amanda Byrne – as well as every tech that has fought and battled everything that the pandemic has thrown at us. Gigi Rouse has been my mentor and I’m sure I would have given up my career journey if it weren’t for her encouragement and support. /sparklesgrimsby

Fav nail designs – My clients love baby boomers and ombré styles and wearing any new products I invest in.

@juliebry2020 @sparklesjulie

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT …

H

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson.

With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following with her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry.

MEET JOUVAN Hey Scratch fam, I’m Jouvan Johnson, lovingly referred to as ‘the Clawgasmic husband’.

I’m a marketing professional that serves to help you grow your clientele effortlessly. I’m often behind the scenes, but look out for the popular ‘my boyfriend narrates’ nail art tutorials on the @Clawgasmic Instagram account.

See you there!

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appy New Year beautiful peeps! I can’t quite believe that I am writing my first article of the year as a columnist for Scratch. I’ve been a fan of the magazine since the beginning of my career in nails. This is such an honour and I’m so excited to share lots of nail art ideas with you all this year, as well as chat about business, social media, trends, brand building and so much more.

My name is Chantelle but you can call me Chan; not Chan like Jackie Chan but Chan as in ‘Shan’. My partner, Jouvan, and I built Clawgasmic and have been working hard to take things to the next level.

Clawgasmic is our positive little pocket on the internet for nail techs. It doesn’t matter if you are new to nails and at the very beginning of your journey, or have been in the industry forever; Clawgasmic has something for you all. We specialise in creating nail art looks to keep you inspired all year round. We also suggest products and tips to help you build and grow your brand, your social media presence, confidence and business.

Last year was a shocker and one of the most difficult for most businesses. I always feel like the New Year offers a fresh start and even though situations may be far from what we once knew, there are still so many things we can be grateful for and look forward to.

Focusing on what we can control rather than what we cannot is where we can find power and some positivity moving forward.

This year, you can make some big strides in the right direction for your business, you can grow, and you can take steps towards your dreams.

Here are my suggestions for ways to attract new clients to your business in 2021: • Focus on the clientele you already have.

This may feel a little contradictory but hear me out. If any of your existing clients are sitting at your nail desk in 2021, they have stuck by your side through a pandemic. The world effectively shut down and they have stayed loyal.

• Create an offer to help clients and your business at the same time. Print some ‘refer a friend’ cards and write your client’s name on the back of some of them. Suggest that if they give these cards to people they know and you gain bookings, both the client and their friend will receive 10% off their treatments.

This thanks the existing client and helps you to gain new ones.

• Collaborate with other local businesses such as hairdressers or lash technicians.

You could give them some business cards for their clients and they could create some for yours. Give each other a free treatment so you showcase the result to each others’ clientele. This way, more people see your work and can hear about your business.

• Set yourself a personal social media challenge for January. For example, each day interact with at least five possible clients, or post two new pictures a day instead of one. Remember that for social media to work for you, you must be ‘social’. The clue is in the name!

I’ll have more social media tips next month and am so looking forward to creating more articles for you this year. I wish you all so much success in your business and I’m here cheering you on all the way!

Love always,

Chan

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP-BY-STEP: FASHION-FORWARD FRENCH So January is here, and it’s likely that your clients may be all glittered out and ready for a refresh on the nail shades they were rocking before Christmas. Don’t worry – I’ve got you!

In January, I always end up recommending a neutral vibe to my clients and often add a monochrome or minimal art look. I feel like you can never go wrong with a neutral base and some micro art.

Last year, we saw a huge rise in the alternative French manicure and I’m a huge fan so I thought I’d show you how to create a super simple fashion-forward French manicure that we saw on many celebs late last year – but with a fresh, monochrome twist.

Step 1 Depending on your chosen system, apply base coat and a neutral base shade. Apply a matte top coat and cure. If you don’t own a matte top coat, lightly buff over your glossy top coat with a white block to mattify.

Step 2 Using white gel paint for nail art and a nail art brush, create one half of the outlined French; painting from mid-way down the nail round to the centre of the nail, and from the mid-way point to the centre of the nail. I use Magpie Beauty White Gel Paint as it has a thick consistency so I have greater control over the product and don’t need to flash cure. Cure when you are happy with the line work.

Step 3 Use the white gel paint and a nail art brush to paint a curve on the opposite side of the nail near the cuticle, to the middle of the nail. Cure.

Step 4 Mirror the lines created in Step 2 using black gel paint and cure.

7

2

Step 5 Mirror the line created in Step 3 using black gel paint and cure. I like the contrast of the glossy gel lines with a matte base but depending on preference, you could apply a glossy top coat or add a sheer chrome effect over the top.

3

4

5

TOP TIP

Consider this design in neon shades for the summer.

For a full nail art video tutorial of this look and to gain access to over 90 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

K I C K S TA R T YO U R CA R E E R O R B U I L D O N YO U R S K I L L S T H I S N E W Y E A R I N O U R C OV I D - S A F E T R A I N I N G V E N U E S W I T H F U L LY AC C R E D I T E D E D U CAT O R S

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“Even with COVID restrictions in place she was very helpful & gave me some very handy tips!”

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SAFETYMATTERS

WORKPLACE SAFETY: Practical pointers Nail your safety & security measures – whether in the salon or on the move – with top tips & expert advice KAT HILL REPORTS Owning a salon or a beauty business carries responsibility – and you have a duty of care to yourself, your employees and your clients. Health & safety protocols are crucial for both day-to-day practices and in case of emergencies.

Remember, if you are found to be negligent, it could have devastating consequences for you and your business.

“You must comply with health & safety legislation of the country of your salon,” says Salon System educator, Ruth Atkins. “These include following, adhering to and displaying the poster provided by the Health & Safety Executive (HSE) of The Health & Safety at Work Act 1974, The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations (COSSH) 2002 and The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2004.”

While there is nationwide legislation, there may also be rules more specific to your local area and even the treatments you carry out. “Also, ensure you have obtained any special licences or registration that your local authority insists on as these can change from area to area,” continues Ruth.

“You must also make sure you and your staff hold the relevant qualifications to carry out the relevant treatments.”

58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

C K L IS T ards at H A N D Y CdireHctE & stand or of quality …

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SAFETYMATTERS

PRACTICAL POINTER: Start with your workspace

FIRST AID

Under the Health & Safety Regulations Act, employers must ensure there is an ‘adequate and appropriate’ number of trained first aiders, as well as first aid supplies in the workplace.

While this will depend on your risk assessment, it is recommended by the HSE that workplaces with five to 50 employees should have at least one first aider with the correct qualifications.

“You’ll need to have at least one appointed person to be in charge of first aid arrangements,” agrees Caroline Larissey, director of quality & standards at the NHBF. “It’s also recommended that at least one person is trained in emergency first aid at work. You can find training courses run by the NHBF via our website. For beauty salons offering advanced treatments, a full first aid at work course is advisable.”

You should have a suitably stocked first aid kit. If you do not have a first aider, you should appoint a staff member to look after first aid arrangements, such as looking after the kit and the appointed person to call the emergency services.

Information about your first aid policy should be available to employees, too.

Keeping your desk tidy ensures your workspace is both safe for you and your clients, while ensuring you look professional.

After every appointment, put products away correctly.

Safely remove chemicals and disposal items from the area, too. Clean and sanitise your setup ready for your next appointment.

Mundo Multi Surface Disinfectant Wipes 200 Drum £7.95 + VAT Available from leading suppliers or via www.mundoproducts.co.uk

Salon Services Sanitiser Spray £3.99 + VAT. www.salon-services.com

DID YOU KNOW…?

The HSE website (www.hse.gov.uk) has downloadable risk assessment templates, along with lots of important information on your responsibilities.

PRACTICAL POINTER:

Disposal

“Check your products for hazardous ingredients and work with your staff so they all know how to store, use and dispose of them safely,” advises Salon System educator, Ruth Atkins. “Make sure they know which ones need to be kept locked up and which ones can’t be disposed of down a sink.”

Beauty Express First Aid Kit (1 Person) £8.39 + VAT www.salon-services.com

LIGHTING

Ensure your working environment has adequate task lighting. Your chosen lamp should emit stable, even and colour matched light. Consider a magnified option if you’re often working in fine detail to avoid eyestrain.

BSI Standard Complete First-Aid Kit £20.95 + VAT www.salonsdirect.com

Daylight Smart Lamp D20 £35 + VAT www.salon-services.com

“It is very important to retain the safety data sheet (SDS) for every single hazardous product in the salon,” explains Magpie Beauty educator & owner of Nicolette’s Nails, Nicolette Manesh.

“For example, if a client was to accidentally touch their eye and get chemicals in it, as a nail technician it is our duty to have the SDS either as a paper copy or saved on a device for easy access and advice.” >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59

SAFETYMATTERS

RISK ASSESSMENTS Hazel Dixon shares her expertise on risk assessments – what to consider, include and how to ensure your assessment is up to scratch.

“A risk assessment is the method used to identify hazards and risks that have the potential to cause harm, find ways to eliminate these or control them if they cannot be eliminated.

“Risk assessments are the responsibility of the employer or the owner of the business. If you are self-employed, it will be your responsibility. Larger businesses and salons may appoint a senior member of staff to do this on their behalf. It is recommended

by HSE that risk assessments are updated annually, however this should be done sooner if you change the layout of a room or introduce new products and equipment, for example.

“As nail professionals, we need to understand all the chemicals we use, how to store and correctly apply them, as well as the PPE that should be used and the precautions that should be taken to ensure we minimise any risks. For example, if flammable products such as monomer are not stored properly, they have the potential to be a fire hazard.

“There is a such a great emphasis on the application process in courses, often new technicians are not taught other aspects needed to be a good nail tech with safe working practices.

I feel that this lack of understanding has played a big part in the rise of allergies in our industry.”

What must be covered?

“Everything that has the potential to cause harm. I have listed some examples into categories – but this list is not exhaustive as every business will be slightly different.

“The best way to undertake this is to walk around your premises and list every detail of any potential risk in each room. If you

are unsure, there are specialist consultants that offer a risk assessment service.

• Products – monomers, primers, powders, gels and gel polishes, etc • Slips, trips and falls from trailing wires, spillages, etc • Poor posture when working – sitting upright with both feet on the floor, using a comfortable chair at the right height • Gas, electricity, water – shocks, fires, burns, carbon monoxide poisoning (have carbon monoxide detectors fitted, ensure all electrical items are PAT tested) • Dermatitis – ensuring correct PPE is worn when handling products • Legionella – relates to hot and cold-water supplies (ensure taps are used regularly so no water sits in the pipes) • Ventilation –there is specific guidance on this for nail bars (COSHH SR13 regulation) • First Aid – correct type of first aid box, including an eye wash station is available • Tools & equipment “There are five main steps to take when completing a risk assessment: 1. Identify the hazards 2. Determine who might be harmed and how 3. Evaluate the risks and decide on what’s needed to eliminate the risks or reduce them 4. Document your findings and implement the changes needed 5. Keep your risk assessment updated and review it regularly.”

PRACTICAL POINTER:

PRACTICAL POINTER:

Remember to take visual breaks during the process of an intricate treatment or when creating a detailed nail design. Look away for a moment; this will help prevent stress and strain by resting your eyes.

When you’re on your feet all day, it is important to consider your footwear choice while working – especially if you work in a standing position.

Protect your eyesight

EQUIPMENT Whether it’s something that is used daily, or the equipment needed in an emergency, it is important that items in your salon are regularly examined.

“Check all electrical appliances and equipment are running effectively, including fire alarms and fire extinguishers,” adds Ruth Atkins. “Have all equipment PAT tested annually once their guarantees have run out. Also check water against legionella protocols.”

“It is important to make sure that every electrical item is checked – even if you are mobile or work from home,” states Nicolette Manesh.

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Look after your feet

When selecting shoes or writing the staff uniform guide, avoid high heels or completely flat shoes. Instead, look for shoes with a good grip for slip resistance and good arch support. If your setup sees hard flooring, shockabsorbing insoles may help keep achy feet at bay.

SAFETYMATTERS PRACTICAL POINTER:

PRACTICAL POINTER:

Fire safety

Sitting pretty

You must have a clear plan of action in case of fire and have preventative measures in place.

This should include regular inspection of smoke detectors, fire extinguishers, and a clear evacuation plan and regular fire drills.

As you are seated in it for most of the day, your chair needs to offer the correct support for your back and legs. Ideally, it should be height adjustable with support to promote good posture.

It should also allow for movement with swivel motion and casters to ensure you’re not twisting or stretching unnecessarily.

Fire Extinguisher 2kg CO2 £31.95 + VAT www.salonsdirect.com

Fire Extinguisher 2L Foam £32.95 + VAT www.salonsdirect.com

DID YOU KNOW…?

“It’s a myth that the dust you see on your table after an appointment is the most dangerous,” explains Nicolette Manesh. “It’s true that these large dust particles can be annoying, but they won’t necessarily come into your breathing zone as they are too heavy.

“It’s the fine dust particles that are invisible to the human eye which are the most dangerous.

They float around the workspace in the air and you will be breathing them in. A high-powered dust extractor is important for all nail technicians. I use the SalonAir by Vodex system, which goes above and beyond the COSHH regulations for the UK.”

EXTRACTION Natasia-Louise James of Vodex Beauty Extraction shares her advice on why an extraction system is so essential and what should be taken into consideration when choosing one for your setup…

“Having an extraction system that works both correctly and efficiently will not only provide you with cleaner air by removing airborne dust and chemical vapours from your breathing zone, but should also help towards reducing fatigue and common health problems associated with beauty treatments, such as headaches, skin rashes, sore throats and coughs.

“Whether you work from home, own a salon space or rent, ventilation within your working environment should be a high priority regardless of Covid-19. Qualified professionals have a duty of care, not only to their clients but to themselves and employees as well.

“Ventilation should already be a part of your overall risk assessment and health & safety policy but knowing what is actually required based on UK COSHH HSE Legislation can be a minefield. Here are some helpful tips for adequate ventilation within a salon environment: 1. Look for these terms: Zone 1, At Source Extraction, LEV (Local Exhaust Ventilation) Extraction.

2. Open windows where possible, but general ventilation is not the same as LEV/At Source Extraction. This should be used in addition to general ventilation.

3. “I offer gel services, not acrylic.” It doesn’t matter what treatments you provide. At source systems are designed to remove both airborne dust and chemical vapours regardless.

4. ‘Dust collectors’ are not the same as At Source Extraction products. The filtration is usually not substantial enough to carry out the same job as extraction units/systems. They are designed to collect larger dust particles that fall, rather than airborne particles that you may otherwise inhale.

5. Look out for good quality filters. Usually H13 HEPA filters for dust and Carbon Filters for vapours. Note: Impregnated Carbon is not the same and will not remove vapours. H13 HEPA filters are very high grade, to work efficiently they must be completely sealed. They are also tested and are usually provided with the test certificate.

“With any purchase, there are always different points to consider – whether it’s price, product features, company brand, customer reviews, customer support and after care. Extraction systems are no different, but, because they are designed to do such an important job, you need to consider as many factors as you can before purchasing: • Don’t ever be pressured into making a purchase • Do your homework on both the company and the product • Compare the product with others available, but compare like for like, not for cheaper alternatives.

• Make sure the purchase is right for you and your working environment.”

If you would like any further information or advice, please email: beauty@vodex.co.uk.

VODEX SalonAIR with FileOWAY Desk Top Pod (Optional Upgrade) in Pink from £715 + VAT www.vodex.co.uk

VODEX SalonAIR 1001 Unit from £615 + VAT www.vodex.co.uk

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SAFETYMATTERS PRACTICAL POINTER:

Accessibility

Have you considered how accessible your setup is for all? As a business owner, you have a duty of care to make reasonable adjustments under The Equality Act. The Citizens Advice Bureau states: “The kind of adjustments which could be made include removing, changing or providing a way of avoiding the physical feature, where it’s reasonable to do so.”

New Scratch monthly column, Access All Areas, will examine different topics surrounding inclusivity and accessibility within the industry. Turn to page 78 to check out this month’s focus!

PRACTICAL POINTER:

Security measures

Invest in a number of security features.

Research the best option for your setup and gain quotes from a variety of security firms.

Measures could include rolling shutters, grilles, laminated glass, enhanced doors and both exterior and interior lighting.

“I believe security cameras in the salon are essential,” states Nicolette Manesh. “It not only protects the products but also protects yourself and your clients. If an issue was to arise, defending yourself or providing evidence will be easier with recordings.”

CASE STUDY: Salon security Loretta Walker, owner of The Nail & Beauty Lounge in Stourbridge, faced a living nightmare when burglars targeted her salon.

“Before work one day, I received a phone call from a neighbour, telling me the salon had been broken into and the door was wide open. When I arrived, I could see the glass door window had been smashed. Walking through the door, I could see the devastation the burglars had left.

TOP TIP: IT’S A DATE!

“Keep on top of the list of responsibilities by re-visiting them,” states Ruth Atkins. “Add a regular date to your diary so it becomes second nature to check and evaluate.”

“Firstly, I notified the police. I reported what had happened and received a crime number. Next, I complied a list of the stock and equipment that was missing. I then spoke to my insurance company, ABT. “ABT was fantastic as the claim was quickly sorted so I was able to get the new salon stock purchased. ABT took a lot of the stress away and made the claim straightforward.

“The locksmith helped me understand the difference between certain locks and lock mechanisms and advised me of the best lock to secure the property. The glass repair company came quickly to board the door up and measure for a new panel.

“My salon team phoned the clients to reschedule. The salon was back open and ready for business by early afternoon that day, even though we didn’t have all the products and equipment.

“Following this incident, salon security became my first priority and I decided to install cameras. After plenty of research, I found some reasonably priced options that linked to my phone and automatically record when it senses activity.

“Our reception laptop and client iPads were stolen, too. I was extremely worried about a client data breach, but when I spoke to the support team at Apple, it assured me that it could both lock and shutdown the devices. This meant they could not be used.

“Money was also taken: the tip box and some cash in the reception till.

Now, absolutely no money is left on the premises. Even when we are rushed or running late, we always make sure we remove any.” www.thenaillounge-stourbridge.co.uk

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2021 Indigo Planner £9.50 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk

PRACTICAL POINTER:

Know your policy Read the small print of your insurance policy.

Always check what measures you need to implement to ensure you’re adequately covered in event of an emergency, theft or criminal damage.

Unsure? Ask your provider.

SAFETYMATTERS

STAFF MATTERS

PRACTICAL POINTER:

Perfect your posture

Sharing is caring, so when it comes to health & safety it’s important to share information and responsibilities.

“Involve staff to highlight risks when it comes to a risk assessment,” advises Ruth Atkins. “Work as a team as health & safety is not just for management: it is a joint responsibility. It’s good practice to write the risk assessment down, but if you employ five staff or over then this is a legal requirement. If you employ anyone under the age of 18, you’ll need to do a separate risk assessment for them.”

“The law says you must provide health & safety training for your staff,” explains Caroline Larissey of the NHBF. “Employees must have training before they are exposed to any risk and you must record it has taken place. “‘Little and often’ is a good rule for ongoing health & safety training. This ensures health & safety stays at the forefront of your employees’ minds. Consider setting aside 15 minutes at every staff meeting to cover particular issues. The NHBF health & safety toolkit includes guidelines for employees and the self-employed working in salons, which can be used for induction and training.”

When sitting at your nail desk, try to remain in a neutral position.

You should sit at a 90-degree angle – not leaning backward or hunching forward. A backrest can provide support, too. Between appointments, try gentle stretches for you neck, hands, arms and back.

SAFETY BEYOND THE SALON While you are trained in how to look after your client in the salon, it’s important to spot the client who may be seeking help outside of it.

The Behind The Mask initiative was created to help beauty professionals recognise the signs of someone experiencing domestic abuse – whether they are a client or colleague.

“Behind The Mask offers professionals free access to online learning and resources,” reveals founder, Julie Knight. “This may help you to spot the signs that someone is experiencing domestic abuse and guide on how to respond in the best way. It’s not about intervening or interfering but knowing how you can truly help someone who may really need it.”

The online training course can be found at www.behindthemask.online

FREE ONLINE TRAINING BEHIND THE MASK

offers beauty professional’s FREE online training DOMESTIC ABUSE

could be physical, psychological, sexual, harassing, coercive or controlling YOU MAY NOTICE

injuries or changes in behavior or demeanor

HELPS YOU TO

spot the signs that someone may be experiencing domestic abuse

AND

how you could respond in the best way MANY WOMEN

tell us things that they wouldn’t say to anyone else

This may be one of the few opportunities they have to reach out for help, or be open to it SALONS ARE SEEN AS A SAFE SPACE

A listening ear and a kind word may change or save their life

3 SHORT VIDEOS IT TAKES 22 MINUTES TO DO SOMETHING AMAZING

1 in 4 women will experience it 2 are killed each week Visit our website to take your training

www.behindthemask.online SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

SOCIALSCENE

S T A T S

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros

ALL MADE UP

DID YOU KNOW…?

57% of mums do not treat themselves at all, according to Net Voucher Codes, as they focus any extra income on their families.

Results from a survey revealed that those who did treat themselves mostly spent money on beauty treatments such as hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and nails.

According to The NPD Group, e-commerce accounted for 41% of total prestige beauty sales from January to October 2020, compared to 21% within the same period in 2019.

SLIDING IN THE DMS

74% of hair and beauty businesses agree that instant messaging is a key feature of success post Covid-19, according to Yell. The same amount agree that they are optimistic for the year ahead.

Under the influence According to Cosmetify, 2020’s biggest beauty influencers are Huda Kattan, James Charles and Bretman Rock.

Instagram.c

om/paintby

jaz

GLOBAL BEAUTY FAVOURITES The world’s biggest beauty brands of 2020 have been named by Cosmetify as: 1. Huda Beauty 2. Anastasia Beverley Hills 3. MAC Cosmetics 4. The Body Shop 5. Florence by Mills

ENDING THE YEAR ON A HIGH

Our web feature detailing the end of lockdown restrictions for nail and beauty salons from 2 December was the most viewed post from the last six months.

Most loved...

Our repost of Jaz Moger’s rose quartz step-by-step on 27 March is our most loved post of 2020 on Instagram, amassing a whopping 14.5k likes!

hot stat!

Over 20 million Brits would like their shopping experience to require as little human interaction as possible, according to data from Ubamarket.

FOLLOW US! #showscratch www.scratchmagazine.co.uk 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

@scratchmagazine

SOLO BEAUTY WORKINGTON, CUMBRIA There’s nothing more rewarding than helping to achieve the vision and dreams of a successful business. Working with Amelia Wilson Interiors on the Solo Beauty project gave us the opportunity to showcase some of our finest furniture. Owner Kerry Hayston chose the REM Dream Pedispas, Florence Nail Bars and Futura Seating for her stunning Workington Beauty Salon.

T: 01282 619 977 E: SALES@REM.CO.UK W: WWW.REM.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

STRIKEAPOSE

Get a glimpse at the career story of the tech behind a gorgeous, Gothic inspired nail image…

MEET THE IST NAIL STYL

M

č THE TECH: Michaela Jancíková AGE: 33 years LOCATION: Ostrava, Czech Republic YEARS IN NAILS: 16 years /MichaelaJancikovaNailsWithLove @michaelamakelove

entored and inspired by Bojana Kostka, Michaela č Jancíková was so enchanted by the nail artist, that she became the distributor for the Kostka nail brand in the Czech Republic and three other countries in the region.

Having trained with an elite selection of nail stylists across Europe such as Vincenzo Russello, Leon Cabriales, Norka and Edina Albach as well as Bojana Kostka, Michaela has settled into her own nail breed of styling extreme shapes, but always with a hint of stiletto, as, “Stiletto takes the top spot in my heart,” she reveals. “Extreme forms will always have an undertone of stiletto in them.”

Starting out at beauty school in 2004, Michaela quickly realised that nail design was her future. “With nails, the effect is immediate; immediate results and gratification for both the client and the artist,” she notes.

With a ‘living in and being present in the moment’ outlook on life, Michaela is ardently pursuing her teaching role, with less time spent in the nail studio. “I love working with students and now I’m the distributor for Kostka Nail Systems in four countries, it means I’m really busy in this field and dedicated to the care and growth of the brand,” she enthuses. “I don’t tend to worry about the future. I live in the present and believe everything I need will somehow show itself as I need it. I live in gratitude and offer thanks to God for everything.”

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With a thirst to elevate nail fashion in the eyes of the world, Michaela strives to popularise nail design in the hope that fashion designers will further explore its potential when creating a look. “I’m so inspired by the work of Bojana Kostka in my nail design quest,” she highlights. “I love her creativity. Anna Ugryumova is on top of her game; I adore the nail art fashioned by Olga Shvaylikova and I really love Zrinka Vuksan Bolancha; she is my style of person and tech.”

Drawn in and through life by art per se, Michaela has grown up in and around an artistic community, with many friends careering through life with creative jobs.

This helps feed her thirst and desires and aids her own artistic journey. “Inspiration for me comes from looking at jewels; since nails are jewels, there’s an obvious correlation for me. I often search for art nouveau jewellery, since the wealth of styles, colour and detail spawns so many ideas for what I can design on the nails.”

Once an avid competitor on the international circuit, Michaela is a decorated nail tech with gold medals in stiletto and pink & whites, gold and silvers in nail art and posters and a more recent gold with the image opposite taken at the Gothic World 2020 cup.

“Inspiration for me comes from looking at jewels; since nails are jewels, there’s an obvious correlation for me.”

NAILINSPO

EDITOR’S PICK…

Scratch’s editor-inchief, Alex Fox, shares the reasons why she is so enamoured with Michaela’s nail work…

“While judging for the Gothic World 2020 online competition last November, I was arrested when I came across this image. It is a great example of how you can take a person’s breath away by showing them something that is different, unique and exciting yet fulfils the brief; exactly what a judge of a poster competition wants to see.

“Much like a siren calling, I felt her allure. This image pulled me right into the story. I felt the fantasy; I felt the pull and the drama. The nails, so dominating yet gentle, are elegantly carved with a faint nod to baroque styling and all of it swathed in orange light.

The model’s make-up is powerful, explicit; she’s a goddess, more than confident, she’s dominant and unrestrained. She means business and she’s beguiling.

“This image is unquestionably brought together with skill, an artistic eye with an edge and a unique perspective. The sensational directional lighting creates dramatic contours and floods the scene in varying levels, spawning strong highlights to further deepen and accentuate the lowlights. Utterly drawn to this style of nail imagery – I was further amazed when I found the model to be the nail tech herself. What a nail goddess!”

“I had just one week to prepare and create this poster,” comments Michaela.

“I was inspired by the Czech movie č č Kladivo na Carodejnice, an historical film about the inquisition. It’s a dark and sad story about the suffering of the so-called witches of the time. I projected this concept with dark make-up placing black circles under the eyes, inverted crosses on the nails, snakes, spiders, blood and a scary mask. To accentuate the burning of witches I enveloped the image in orange light to signify fire.

“I created all the accessories myself and sculpted the nails freestyle; so, each is unique, yet in a similar style. The nails were created entirely with the Kostka UV gel system.”

Photographer: Darina Kubíková Make-up & hair: Veronika Stará č Nail stylist & model: Michaela Jancíková

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 67

NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H Get to know the names behind brands that are attracting attention across the nail scene…

KATIE ASHE GEL POLISH Liverpool-based tech, Katie Ashe, has been working as a nail tech and beauty therapist for 13 years. “Back in 2016, I told my friends that I wanted to take a big step and launch my own range of gel polish,” she reveals. “After much research and planning, I put my name to a formula that I had been working with for five years. I perfected the look of the bottle, the logo and the nail shades and received the first delivery of Katie Ashe Gel Polish on 1 May 2018.”

The gel polish range features 122 highly pigmented shades with a creamy finish, a black and white gel paint for nail art, three builder bases, a base coat and non-wipe top coat, foil adhesive and cat’s eye effect gel polish. “I have recently launched Katie Ashe 180/180-grit files and baby pink branded KA Gel Polish hoodies,” Katie adds. “My aim is for KA Gel Polishes to be known and used worldwide by amazing nail technicians!”

Striking in look, the 15ml bottles feature a pretty silver crown lid and heart shape on the side to view the shade. “My cousin designed my logo and each shade is named after a song that brings back memories or is personal to me,” Katie reveals.

After a stint selling the products through Instagram, Katie launched her own website and saw sales begin to soar. She boasts customers from America and Australia and comments: “I love that I can bring happiness to other nail technicians and I am proud to have created such a stand-out bottle with reliable formula.

“I look forward to bringing out more shades, keeping my customers happy and attracting new ones from all over the world!” www.katieashegelpolish.co.uk

@katieashegelpolish

HOTPATCH

HotPatch founder & CEO, Yasin Alimam, describes the company as a ‘workspace marketplace’. Launched in March 2020, it connects those with space to spare (particularly in beauty and nails) with professionals who wish to rent it.

“In these uncertain and challenging times, HotPatch provides an ideal solution to an extremely agile workforce,” Yasin reveals. “We want to change the way people think about workspaces. We want to ‘Make Space Work’.”

The HotPatch team

Nails by HotPatch fan, @kontouredbykatie

The aim of the platform is to offer more choice with less fuss. HotPatch is a platform that allows all workspaces to be listed in one single place. It is free to list and free to join, user-friendly and transparent. “HotPatch is here to give increased independence and flexibility,” Yasin continues. “We want to grow a community built on quality of service and trust through our ratings and review system.”

Yasin was inspired to launch HotPatch after researching another business project and realising there would be excess space in the venue that needed to be filled to help with running costs. “I quickly recognised that there was no one single platform that offered a user-friendly approach to accessing workspaces. There had to be an easier way to list and rent a workspace (or ‘patch’), so that owners can monetise the workspace and users can easily search and access them.

Business owners can benefit from the HotPatch platform by listing their spaces to rent for free, communicate directly with potential users, and receive payment safely and securely through the platform. For nail techs seeking a space to rent, it is completely free to join and the platform offers multiple search and navigation tools that makes searching for a patch somewhat of a joy. “It’s time to let an idle space support an income,” Yasin reveals. “We ‘Make Space Work!’” www.hotpatch.com

/hotpatchmakespacework

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@hotpatch_

Amie of Rock Chic Beauty Salon, London, rented a space via HotPatch.

NAILSCENE NAILS IN THE HUDD Sister duo, Ashley and Olivia Witter, launched Nails In The Hudd in November 2020 with the by.OWA moisture oil. Ashley, who qualified in Nail Services in 2015 while teaching hairdressing, would practise nail art designs on Olivia and took the leap into full-time nail work in 2018 after carving out a nail art niche in her home town of Huddersfield.

“I had wanted to launch a cuticle oil for some time that I could use on my clients,” reveals Ashley, also known as @PaintedBeautyHQ on Instagram. “Olivia’s university course meant that she had an understanding of business and product merchandising and, as we are both creative, we decided to merge our skills and launch our first product – by.OWA.” The duo was keen to create a unisex ‘moisture oil’ and this initial product, by.OWA in No.28, upholds a musky scent. Its tag line is ‘Open, Squeeze, Drip, Rub’ for application and most sales so far have been through the brand’s Instagram page. “The support has been phenomenal so far,” Ashley beams.

“We had been planning the product since January 2020 but needed to do a lot of research and reading, and then Covid-19 hit and delayed the launch. However, we utilised our time in the pandemic well as I focused on building my @PaintedBeautyHQ following, developing my skills and hosting live Instagram classes.

Olivia developed her PhotoShop skills which has been vital for the packaging and marketing of by.OWA.” The packaging design is inspired by high end brands; minimal yet stylish.

“We both had the same vision for the bottles, but the branding work is Olivia’s forte,” reveals Ashley. “She has a keen eye for design and makes me run everything past her. I don’t dare post anything on our Instagram myself!

“We’re excited to launch more signature scents and hope to see our products retailed in salons, stores and showcased alongside top beauty brands. I love that Olivia and I have launched a brand together.

We are so proud of it and it’s great to know we can make our clients feel good with our product.” @nailsinthehudd

@PaintedBeautyHQ

DAKOTA NAIL PRODUCTS & EDUCATION Ellyse Ball has been practising nail art since the age of 13, and started her career in the sector at 16, working from a setup in her home. “As a nail technician, I try to come up with unique and innovative nail art designs and have a keen interest in modern trends and products,” she reveals. “After working a lot with water decals, I was inspired to create my own, and they grabbed a lot of attention on social media.

Dakota Nail Products & Education was born as I realised I could sell my decals online – and my nail art range expanded from there.”

Keen to create a one-stop shop for modern, fashionable and unique nail art products, Ellyse also launched cuticle oils with scents inspired by designer perfume brands. “It took some time to perfect each scent but I am really proud of the end results. It’s like having your favourite perfume applied at the end of a nail appointment,” Ellyse smiles. “My clients love them and they are very popular retail products.

“I have also added glitters, sequins, foils, flexi-tapes, stickers, leaf, chrome dusts, neon pigments and a range of accessories and tools to my product range. I only add a new product if it meets my three rules; it must be of high quality, good value and on-trend! I have spent a lot of time with different manufacturers and suppliers in order to discuss what I want to sell and test the quality of the newest products. Fashions change quickly and the most important thing is to keep up with or set new trends in the industry.”

Each order arrives in handmade packaging but Ellyse admits that it’s tough to juggle work as a nail tech and product provider. “I like to stay busy though, and I love a challenge,” she reveals. “I get such a buzz from seeing posts of amazing nail designs by my customers on Instagram using my products. In the future, I would like to expand the product range further and hopefully introduce some new product groups such as nail tech clothing and salon equipment. For now, however, I’m happy trying to establish the brand as a go-to website for nail art needs.” www.dakota-nailproductsandeducation.com Dakota Nail Products & Education @dakota_nailproducts_education SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69

Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

I

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness.

Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments that employees enjoy working in. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

’m so pleased to have been invited to write regularly as a columnist for Scratch. I have seen first-hand how the past 12 months have affected people within the nail industry and I want to do everything I can to try and help.

Without dwelling on it too much, we all know that 2020 was not fun. Having said this, it’s my personal ethos that there’s always a positive to take from any situation and something to learn, so this month, I’d like to focus on the good things.

My own story of 2020 is a crazy one. My wife Emma is a nail technician who works from our home in Cheshire. When it was announced last March that she would have to close up shop, despite her sadness, she knew it was for the best, and packed away her things thinking it would be for no longer than a few weeks.

Four months later, when it became clear that many in the beauty industry were being left behind in the opening up of the economy, she mentioned what I do for a living while attending an online beauty seminar, and suggested that I may be able to help anyone in the industry who was feeling stressed and helpless due to the situation.

Fast-forward to now, and I’ve been fortunate to have connected with many leading lights in the nail sector and been given the opportunity to help a great number of nail techs in their journey to feeling more positive.

While everyone has their own journey and story pertaining to 2020, I thought it would be nice to highlight some of the most common things that have made people feel grateful.

1. More time spent with family

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

@daveheffernanltd

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This is by far the most common answer and the one I think many people will relate to.

When we were banished to our homes for three and a half months last spring, we spent a lot more time with the people we live with.

While this caused stress for those with children of school age, it also allowed us to enjoy each other’s company and spend quality time together; time we don’t usually have.

2. Additional opportunities to learn Since many were unable to work physically, many educators in the sector took time to impart their professional knowledge, offering techs the opportunity to upskill and offer their clients even better services when able to work again.

3. A new outlook on professional life Many took time to reflect on the goals and aspirations they had for their careers when they first started out. This meant that they gained a greater appreciation for what they had achieved so far. While it’s always great to have ambition, it’s also vital that we learn the value of where we are now.

Although it may not have been the most positive year, it’s worth taking time to reflect on the things that you’ve gained, personally or professionally. I always tell people that the first step to feeling more positive is to learn to be content and grateful for the things we have, and allow those things to change us for the better.

I have a number of ‘life rules’, which I use to set my mind, and the minds of others, on a more positive route.

• Control the controllables Don’t worry about the things in life that you have no control over; instead focus your mind on the things that you do. What can you do to make a positive impact on your current situation?

• Seek the positive in every situation As humans, many of us are wired to go straight to the negative in any situation, making it very hard to move past the issue. If you seek out the positives, you’re automatically setting yourself on a better and more balanced platform to move forward.

• Seek the lesson to be learned Whenever anything doesn’t go to plan in life, there’s always a lesson that can be taken to ensure it doesn’t happen again.

As the saying goes, ‘There are no failures in life – just lessons’.

I’m looking forward to the opportunity of helping you find your positive story and I hope that reading this will be the first step on a journey to even greater success as you move through 2021.

INDUSTRYINSIGHT

The science of

Cuticle Oil Learn more about how & why oils are a musthave for aftercare & nail maintenance…

KAT HILL REPORTS

How it works

To examine how this nailcare product works, first you must look at its target: the nail plate and surrounding skin. “Oil and moisture can travel through the nail plate in both directions,” explains Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician Fourth Edition. “Secretions from the nail bed travel up from under the nail plate and help keep it flexible.

“Water and many other chemicals can travel down from the top of the nail plate as long as their chemical structure is small enough to work their way through the gaps created between the cells. Harsh chemicals, such as detergents and bleach, can strip away the oil and moisture from the upper layers and seep between the layers at the free edge where the bonds between the layer have broken.

“Nail oil on the other hand, when applied daily to the nail plate, can penetrate through the layers and fill up the space with a useful lubricant that will help keep the nail flexible and prevent unwanted chemicals from invading the nail plate.”

“Moisturisers are misunderstood,” explains Doug Schoon in Face-To-Face with Doug Schoon Volume II. “Contrary to what some may believe, oils can’t add any moisture to nails, skin or hair, 72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

but they can prevent ‘dryness’, so this causes some confusion. When moisturiser is added, that increases ‘water’ concentration inside nails, skin and hair.

Image courtesy of CND™ (Creative Nail Design, Inc)

I

t’s used to finish a nail treatment and offered to clients as homecare, but have you ever considered why a cuticle oil is so imperative? Or how it works? Whether it’s in the form of an oil, cream or balm, this care product plays a crucial role in a nail service.

“Oils by themselves can also increase the moisture content of nails and skin, but they do this in a different way than many understand. Oils coat the nail and skin with a thin film that forms a moisture resistant barrier. Some oils can penetrate and will create a barrier in the upper layers of the skin. Underneath this barrier, moisture can build up, thus raising the water content of nails or skin.”

The application of cuticle oil helps recover the lipids (or, natural skin fats under our epidermal layer) of the skin, as cosmetic chemist & president of CleanestiQ Labs, Vitaly Solomonov, explains. “The lipid content and the lipids’ structure are the essential factor of the skin barrier function.

This content can be compromised after using products such as cuticle removers, antiseptics and dehydrators.

“Oils coat the nail and skin with a thin film that forms a moisture resistant barrier.”

“The cuticle oils recover and sustain the lipids, and, even more importantly, the oils slow down the water evaporation, which is also professionally known as water loss. The latter ensures the normal level of moisturisation.

“Some components recover the lipid content and structures of the damaged membranes while another slows the most

precious component of the skin and nails: water. The additions that inhibit irritation are also used.”

While hand creams and balms help prevent dryness, using a product specifically created for the job will ensure optimum results. “Hand creams are great for skin, but they won’t be able to hydrate the nails as well,” explains Lucie Hall, LART UK educator.

INDUSTRYINSIGHT

Why use it?

Oiling the nail and surrounding skin can help promote healthy growth and create the optimum conditions for the natural nail, as well as keeping dry skin at bay.

“Recommended application is two or three times a day,” says INK London educator, Jayne Packenas. “However, this can vary if the client has dry, flaky nails or skin, and application could go up to several times a day. Dry skin around the nails could tempt the client to bite at it and move on to biting their nails. If there is no hard skin, there is nothing to bite.”

Regular use can also aid against adverse effects of day-to-day tasks, such as hand washing and the use of cleaning products.

“Nail oil, like the LEpro Cuticle Oil, used regularly will help negate the drying effects that household detergents, hand sanitisers and harsh chemicals have on our nails,” adds Susan McGirl, Light Elegance education ambassador.

Regular use of care products is also crucial to the longevity of your service. “By keeping the natural nail hydrated, it prevents the nail from shrinking and pulling away from the enhancement on the surface,” explains Danielle Walker, master educator at Georgie Smedley Group. “This will prevent the nail being susceptible to pathogens and service breakdown but ensures clients can go longer between each treatment without compromise.”

APPLICATION

A few drops of cuticle oil or small amount of balm can be applied to the nail area and surrounding skin, before being massaged in. “Rubbing the oil in will help stimulate nail growth by increasing the circulation,” advises Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert. “You should also look for a formula that isn’t too thick, so it can be easily absorbed, rather than just sit on top of the skin.”

“This absorption is best achieved where a synergistic blend of several oils has been used to create a formula that will deliver the best results,” agrees Anna Leach, Georgie Smedley Group educator.

“Good quality oil, if used properly, penetrates quickly and doesn’t leave a high shine for a long time after application,” says Vitaly Solomonov.

FOCUS ON: Use with systems Cuticle oil plays a major role in a nail treatment – not just upon completing the service, but also to maintain nails between appointments. Elissa Newton reveals how CND SolarOil™ is crucial to her services…

“With CND™ enhancements, especially liquid & powder services, we use CND™ SolarOil™ to plasticise the nails by buffing the oil into the enhancements, creating a level of protection. It is especially important to do this when the liquid & powder has not reached its maximum cure during the first 24 to 48 hours after initial application.

“With CND™ Vinylux™, SolarOil™ will help draw solvents out from the polish, aiding the drying time. For these manicures, the use of CND™ SolarSpeed Spray™ would also be advised.

CND SolarOil™ £5.25 + VAT/RRP £12.95 www.sweetsquared.com

“With CND Shellac™ treatments, SolarOil™ is formulated to travel through microscopic tiny tunnels within the Shellac™. This helps speed up the safe removal service and allows the natural nail to still benefit from the key ingredients.”

“The colder, winter months are infamous for adverse effects on skin, but often we forget that our nails tend to suffer some of the same effects, too”, says Daisy Kalnina, founder and CEO of The Gel Bottle Inc ‘ “Investing in a & Peacci. good cuticle oil can do wonders!”

“Despite the fear mongering marketing, if you see in the list of ingredients silicones or mineral oils, don’t avoid them,” advises Vitaly Solomonov. “They are a good addition to cuticle oils.”

“Scent plays an important part – your clients will surely appreciate a lovely smelling cuticle oil!” smiles Lucie Hall, LART UK educator.

“Also consider stocking mildly scented and unscented options for sensitive clients.”

“Ideally, as with any professional application, you should work within a complete system, as all the products will have been developed to work perfectly with each other,” says Light Elegance education ambassador, Susan McGirl.

“Oiling the nail and surrounding skin can help promote healthy growth and create the optimum conditions for the natural nail, as well as keeping dry skin at bay.” >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73

INDUSTRYINSIGHT

Coconut oil

INGREDIENTS TO LOOK FOR Here are just some of the key ingredients often found in cuticle oils and their properties…

“When looking at ingredients in a cuticle oil, you should be looking for anything that has been proven to help promote nail growth and prevent moisture loss,” explains brand ambassador for Pure Nails, Niamh Hartley. “Always check what ingredients are in the cuticle oil and research what benefits they have on the skin and nail.”

Extra virgin olive oil

Used for centuries as a topical treatment, the oil is extracted by the pressing of whole olives. “This oil contains something naturally in it called Oleocanthal,” explains Linda Nordstrom, CEO of Famous Names Products. “This is a natural anti-inflammatory.”

“This ingredient has a soothing, smoothing and moisturising effect,” adds Lucie Hall, LART UK educator.

“It provides the skin with unsaturated fatty acids, carotenoids, phytosterols and phospholipids.”

Jojoba

Jojoba is grown for the liquid wax, commonly called jojoba oil, in its seeds.

“Jojoba seed oil contains about 50% of liquid wax, which allows it to attract and hold water, as well as to create a protective film over the skin that traps in moisture,” explains Tammy Koslowski.

“Jojoba seed oil is a deeply penetrating natural oil that provides excellent moisturisation and conditioning,” adds Elissa Newton. “The oil acts like a carrier to increase the penetration of other ingredients.”

Wheat germ oil

A great emollient for the barrier function of skin, this oil is made by pressing either fresh coconut meat or copra, dried coconut meat.

Virgin coconut oil uses fresh meat, while refined coconut oil typically uses copra.

“Coconut oil is also packed full of good fats, which can help fight bacterial, viral, and fungal pathogens,” adds Tammy Koslowski, founder of NAF! Stuff.

Sunflower seed oil

This oil is derived from pressing the seeds of sunflower. “This oil is great as it can easily penetrate the skin due its small molecular structure,” explains Anna Leach, Georgie Smedley Group educator.

“Sunflower seed oil helps skin retain moisture,” adds NSI educator, Janine Hartley. “It is effective for dry skin and beneficial for those with oil overproduction.”

The formula is extracted from the germ of the wheat kernel. “It is high in vitamin E, an essential nutrient with antioxidant properties,” explains NSI educator, Janine Hartley.

Sweet almond oil

One of the most common ingredients, this natural oil is derived from pressed almonds and is regularly used as a carrier oil.

“Sweet almond oil acts as an emollient,” explains Anna Leach, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “It is a great ingredient but only when used in combination with other oils that have better penetrating abilities. By itself it would be quite ineffective, so a synergistic blend of several oils will deliver the best results.”

Candelilla wax

This wax is created from the leaves of a small shrub called Candelilla.

“In our Cuticle Butters, we use Candelilla wax,” explains Carrie Sleath, founder of OMY Nails. “While being a vegan substitute for beeswax, it also has so many hydrating qualities with no leftover greasy residue.

“This combination also creates the butter-like consistency, meaning our Butter Fingers products are easy and precise to apply, with no wastage.

The butter melts into your fingertips with body heat.”

Grapeseed oil

Also called grape oil, this oil is derived from the seeds of grapes and is a by-product of the winemaking industry.

“Grape seed oil has natural stores of antioxidants and skin-promoting compounds,” explains Janine Hartley.

“It helps to maintain healthy moisture levels in skin.”

Isopropyl Myristate

“Emollients like Isopropyl Myristate are great,” explains Vitaly Solomonov.

“It may sound scary, but it’s a useful components in skincare.”

“Isopropyl Myristate acts as a vehicle to carry other ingredients through the skin to do their work,” adds Tammy Koslowski.

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Avocado oil Vitamins

“Vitamin E is an antioxidant known to neutralise free radicals that are associated with the premature ageing of the skin,” states Elissa Newton.

“Vitamins C & E may help protect skin from sun damage,” states Janine Hartley.

“It is essential for the production of collagen, a protein that gives shape, strength and integrity to tissue.”

This oil is extracted from the pulp of the avocado. “Cold pressed avocado is rich in lipids and intensively moisturises,” explains Lucie Hall, LART UK educator. “It supports the natural regeneration of the epidermis and the oil contains a large amount of nutrients and active substances.”

“Avocado oil is packed full of skinreplenishing molecules that work on the skin’s surface to conserve moisture and prevent water loss that can lead to signs of dehydrated skin,” says Tammy Koslowski.

“Avocado oil is also high in vitamins A & E,” adds Linda Nordstrom.

INDUSTRYINSIGHT

FOCUS ON: Retailing Tammy Koslowski, creator of NAF! Stuff, reveals pointers to consider when retailing cuticle oils…

“It’s a great opportunity to advertise your retail offering because you’re applying a product that will have instant benefits in front of the client’s eyes. In NAF! Stuff’s case, oils are also a conversation-starting scent! As it’s the last thing you apply, it creates a great talking point; you can ensure your client knows that frequent application between appointments will keep their nails hydrated, chipping to a minimum and makes your job easier on the other end.

s k c i p t c u Prod

“It was super important that our formulas were NAF! Stuff has vegan and cruelty-free as well as nut and relaunched its Affiliate gluten-free to ensure that our products Programme, meaning nail were accessible. When retailing to & beauty businesses can offer your clients and using cuticle oil in retail-friendly products from the the salon, it’s important to choose a brand to clients. The professional brand that knows its products inside receives a unique discount code to out and has all the documentation for share, and with any sales, the pro formulas. It’s easy to say that a product then receives 10% commission. is vegan and cruelty-free, but if the Discover more at brand doesn’t have access to their whole www.nafstuff.com supply chain, it’s difficult to certify this.”

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NAF! Stuff Lavender 1.8ml Pen RRP £8 www.nafstuff.com 1 Pure Nails Prep It Cuticle Feed £7.99 + VAT www.purenails.co Available in both a brush-on format and as a dropper bottle, this oil features a fresh orange and mango fragrance to revitalise.

2 Indigo Nails Lab Keratin Shea Elixir in Raspberry Love £2.40 inc VAT www.indigo-nails.co.uk This elixir’s formula includes hydrolysed keratin and vitamin E, providing an ideal finish to any nail styling with its sweet scent.

3 Light Elegance LEpro Cuticle Oil £3.45 + VAT/RRP £7.95 www.sweetsquared.com This LEpro oil includes a blend of natural oils for use after every service.

4 INK London Fresh Cuticle Oil £2.08 + VAT www.inknails.com Ideal for daily application, this gently fragranced formula includes vitamins A, B, C, D, E, F and K, as well as omega 3, 6 and 9.

5 Navy Professional Cuticle Oil from £6.95 inc VAT www.navyprofessional.com This balm is enriched with rosehip oil, aloe vera extract and coconut oil.

It features Navy’s signature scent and is presented in a handy tin.

6 Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil £4.99 + VAT/RRP £11.99 www.gsgroupuk.com This care product features a blend of grapeseed oil, kukui nut oil, sesame and vitamin E. 7 LART Orange & Cinnamon Cuticle Oil £6.20 inc VAT www.lartnails.co.uk Olive, avocado and macadamia oils combine in this blend featuring a fruity scent that soothes.

8 Astonishing Nails Tea Tree Lemongrass Oil from £1.35 + VAT www.astonishing-nails.co.uk Offering quick absorption, this oil is formulated with lemongrass, sunflower seed oil, calendula flower oil, jojoba and vitamin E. 9 Purple Professional Nail Oil in Rose £POA www.purpleprofessional.pt This handy oil from Purple Professional’s Spa Line sees a delicate rose scent and brush for easy application.

10 Kaeso Scentsational Cuticle Oil Trio £5.30 + VAT/RRP £10.55 www.kaeso.co.uk Enriched with natural oils, this fragrant trio features the scents Ginger Fizz, Tropical Tango and Forest Fruits.

11 NSI Nurture Oil (12pk) £34.50 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk Blended with jojoba, soy, safflower, wheat germ and grapeseed oils, this oil was formulated to help prolong enhancements’ durability and flexibility.

12 The Edge Nails 3 Phase Nail Oil in Pink £2.95 + VAT www.edgenails.co.uk This oil is dispensed via a rollerball, allowing for easy application, even on the go.

13 Salon System Gellux Nail & Cuticle Oil £4.35 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

This non-greasy cuticle oil with natural almond oil is quickly absorbed and leaves a refreshing orange aroma. What’s more, it is also vegan friendly.

14 Famous Nails Dadi’Oil £14.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Blending avocado, jojoba and extra virgin olive oil, Dadi’Oil can be applied to the nail plate, underside and surrounding skin. ‘ Cuticle Oil £6 +VAT/RRP £10 www.thegelbottle.com 15 Peacci This formula is packed with vitamins A, B, D and E, as well as peach and almond oil to help provide hydration.

16 OPI Pro Spa Nail & Cuticle Oil-To-Go £5.35 + VAT/RRP £10.70 www.opiuk.com This pen contains a fast-absorbing gel formula ideal for clients on the move.

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INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

ACCESS ALL

areas We live in a right-handed world. This is born from 90% of the population being righthanded, while the other 10%, known as ‘southpaws’ or left-handed, must grin and bear it and adapt. For example, did you know that swiping a credit card or using a can opener can be an uncomfortable activity that right-handers take for granted?

With scissors being a difficult instrument for left-handers to brandish, this is just one uncomfortable aspect to navigate for left-handed nail professionals.

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ward-winning nail tech and educator, Katie Barnes, a left-hander herself, explains the challenges she’s faced. “It’s assumed that when working left-handed, it’s just the opposite way. The majority of the population and therefore products manufactured and working techniques are right-handed. Having to adapt to right-handed working ways and tools has trained a left-handed tech’s brain and hand to work in an unusual and uncomfortable manner.

“When learning, it’s not just about the hand; it’s about the hand, eye and brain coordination. Each left-handed tech works, writes and holds objects differently, meaning that just the opposite way does not work.

“When learning nails, I found it an issue when observing a righthanded educator, who assumed that I would just work the opposite way. It’s a different way of thinking, and methods need to be adapted in various ways to help left-handed techs achieve success. The difficulty in using many everyday items is likely part of the reason that left-handed individuals have acquired a reputation for awkwardness and clumsiness.”

Looking closely at which tech tools are the most tricky to wield, Katie advises, “Scissors are renowned for being problematic for left-handed users. The reason is due to the way the blades are aligned. Designed for right-handed users, when held in the right hand the bottom blade is on the left, allowing the user to have a full view of what is being cut. When you switch this to a left hand, the blade doesn’t change position, meaning the upper blade sits in the way FACT FILE of the left hand user’s view. This 13 August is view produces a International Left-Handers Day more effective and cleaner cut for a right-handed user, whereas a left-hander’s cutting action 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Scratch talks to lefthanded techs to gain a perspective on what challenges they face when working as a nail professional

may force the blades apart, reducing the effectiveness and often resulting in an uneven cut.

“A left-handed user has to hold right-handed scissors in an unnatural way to make the scissors cut, causing marks on the hand and eventually callouses. Add standard loop handles to the equation and it makes it extremely tricky for a lefthanded user to manage. This makes cutting more difficult and can result in problems arising in the work. All of this puts additional stress on a left-handed tech’s hands and wrists, something which is already an issue in the industry.”

TOOL TALK Compelled to address the lack of efficient tools for left-handed techs on the market, while also catering for all techs, Katie took to her drawing board and designed a series of madeto-measure nail tools, known as the Katie Barnes Tool Range.

She cites, “A tool has to be crafted for a left-handed user, by a left-handed individual to understand what is required for it to be beneficial. It not only needs to consider hand use, it has to account for the hand, eye and brain coordination.

“For years, I found that industry tools were missing something: they were too long; too clumpy; blunt or difficult to use, especially for left-handed users and so I had to tailor my tools to get the desired results. With this in mind, and following many requests, the Katie Barnes Tool Range was born. I wanted to create a range that I could be truly passionate about and know that the industry was getting the best possible solution at a reasonable price.

“Since I had first-hand experience of the issues lefthanded users were facing, it equipped me with the knowledge and experience to create a tool range truly suitable for left-handed techs. As well as

INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY JODIE TAYLOR Basildon, Essex Nail artist & educator for Nailchemy “I haven’t really found any difficulties working as a left-handed nail tech. I think being a leftie, people think I automatically need to have left-handed tools. Not this leftie, I’ve managed to work with many different tools over the years.

“I tried left-handed e-file bits a long time ago, but if I’m honest, I didn’t find any difference. Using my e-file with ordinary bits in reverse works perfectly for me. And even though I’m a leftie, I use cuticle scissors with my right hand; does that make me ambidextrous?

FACT FILE Left-handed people have the upper hand when it comes to one-onone sports like tennis, myself, a variety of expert left and rightboxing and pitching handed techs trialled my range before a baseball. launch to test the success and comfort for both users. While creating a range that was suitable for left-handed techs, I was aware that there are more right-handed users out there, so it was important to ensure the brand was inclusive to all, even the ambidextrous.

“My scissors were designed with the left-handed tech in mind.

Due to the pivot point, alignment and shape and size of the blades, vision is not affected for either right or left-handed users.

The spring handle allows for easy use, almost like a tweezer action, which is suitable and provides better comfort for both left and right-handed users.

“With cuticle pushers, cuticle knives and other such tools, the ‘knife’ side is designed in a direction suitable for right-handed users and cannot be adapted for left-hand use, due to having one blunt and one sharp side. When designing my cuticle tool, I ensured that both sides were of equal thickness and sharpness to allow the tool to be used in either direction with the same results.

“For left-handed techs starting out in the profession, I advise during training to remember to mirror image what your righthanded tutor is teaching. If you have it in your head to mirror it, you won’t end up as stressed. For example, with one stroke, instead of starting at the left and working towards the right, start right and work towards the left and put your e-file in reverse.” @jodietaylor_nailartist

SOFIA GUARDO Leith, Edinburgh Nail tech & brand founder “Since I started working in nails nine years ago, the most common problem I’ve found is losing clear vision of the client’s finger when using cutting tools. Specific left-handed tools would make a huge difference to my working life and make everything so much easier.

“Nail tech tables are mostly designed for right-handed professionals, as the right side of the table is left clear.

The only option I see is to build your own table, so the left side is empty and free for arm movements and for storage drawers. To deal with the tool challenges, I use Russian manicure drill bits, which prevent me using the cuticle nipper.”

@0ne_station “E-files are also a common issue among left-handed techs. When a machine is working in a direction opposite to how it was designed, the motor will never be as powerful, meaning that when working on reverse for left-handed techs, the power is not as effective as it is for right-handed technicians. Issues even arise with electrical items, cameras, desks etc, which are designed for right-hand use resulting in a left-handed user having to stretch and work in an uncomfortable manner. Left handed users tend to put up and adapt however, as this FACT FILE has always been standard, but it’s not until they Lefties are known as finally use something that truly benefits their ‘southpaws’, a term coined working ways, that they realise the issues they’ve been up against.” for left-hand boxers who lead

The Katie Barnes Tool Range is available via www.katiebarnesacademy.com /KatieBarnesAcademy @katiebnails

with the right hand. It’s also the name of a left-handed baseball pitcher and has become a term used for all left-handers.

@katiebarnesnailartist

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 79

INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY ASHLEY WITTER Huddersfield Nail tech & founder of Nails In The Hudd “When training in nails, it took me a bit of time to work out how to follow the tutor with my left hand, which did create an initial barrier to learning. Classes prominently cater for right-handed people, so I had to learn to do everything the right-handed way. This has fortunately worked out well for me, but I wouldn’t recommend struggling just to be the same as others.

“I’m now a qualified tutor and make it a priority to demonstrate for both left and right-handed students. My advice to struggling students is to just ask to be shown the left-handed positioning, don’t struggle in silence!” @PaintedBeautyHQ

AMY OLDALE Sheffield Award-winning nail & session artist “I’ve been a leftie for 44 years, and when I was young left-handed scissors didn’t exist, so I had to cut right-handed making me a little ambidextrous.

“During lockdown 2.0, I spent time trying to master form fitting. Switching scissors and forms around to customise the forms is really frustrating, so on my ‘to buy’ list is the Katie Barnes Form Scissors. The grip of the flex handle design makes it possible to use in my left hand. I do find the angled cuticle tools trickier to use, so often stick to straight edged ones. My desk is all right-handed, so I’m reaching over myself or twisting to get to products in the drawers!

“For a left-handed newbie, it may be helpful to find a lefthanded educator. I admit I’d love to work as a right-handed tech for a day, just to see how it feels and if there’s a big difference, as things can feel awkward the way I work.” @amy_oldale

@halo_nails

STEPHANIE CONNOLLY Bishops Stortford Mobile nail tech & BeautABILITY ambassador “Being left-handed, I find buffing the nail and the client’s position can be troubling at times.

I tend to move my chair quite a lot to help me get at all angles of the nail. Getting in the best position to use cuticle nippers can be a challenge because I feel like I can’t get into the right position with my hand to safely remove that bit of dead skin. Also, I can’t place my products on the left side of my nail desk, because I’ve knocked them over when filing or doing removals! So, I normally have my products on the right side, which means stretching over, which isn’t ideal, but it’s better than persistently knocking them over.

“I advise lefties to invest in a trolley for the essentials and place it on your left-hand side, so they’re not on the desk and you can’t knock them over with your elbow when filing. It also saves you having to reach over. Also move your position around to get the best view when doing a set of nails. I find this helps enormously.” @naileditnailsbysteph

SCARLETT SENTER Kings Lynn, Norfolk Award-winning nail artist & educator for Nailchemy “Being left-handed has certainly afforded its challenges. When learning nails I had to do everything backwards to the educator. I found nail art extremely difficult and had to ask them to repeat the steps. This made me feel out of place and it took me longer to learn the techniques.

However, I was determined to succeed.

“As an educator myself, I explain to my students that I’m lefthanded, so they know to do the opposite to what I’m showing them, although after struggling, I’ve taught myself many righthanded ways, so can show some in this manner. Katie Barnes’ Tool Range has really made a difference to the way I work.” @scarlett_senternailartist

FACT FILE Famous lefties include: Barack Obama, Bill Bryson, Lewis Carroll, Jean-Paul Gaultier, David Bowie, Spike Lee, Drew Barrymore, Kim Basinger, Leonardo da Vinci, Paul Klee, Morgan Freeman, Robert De Niro, Marilyn Monroe, Chewbacca, Jimi Hendrix, Albert Einstein, Joan of Arc, Aristotle, Bill Gates, Mozart, Winston Churchill & Prince William.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

NEW YEAR, NEW BUSINESS FOCUS

ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus.

A qualified nail tech, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge.

Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business.

After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

“As we start a new year, it is time to use all those skills and learnings from Covid-19 to improve your current business structure and processes.”

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he start of a new year is usually the time when people focus on their business and personal goals. Many speak of starting new diet and fitness regimes but I am also expecting to see a special focus on business targets, financial performance and profit level reviews – particularly after the consequences of the pandemic.

pandemic – but what does the new year have in store for your business?

It is not a surprise that many nail and beauty pros may have changed the course of their business; either offering other treatments, downsizing or working on e-commerce. Some may have decided to change career completely or look at other avenues such as teaching or running workshops as they pivoted during the

After working with businesses up and down the UK of all sizes, and through speaking with hundreds more via email or social media over the course of the pandemic, there are a number of things that should be considered moving forward. Ensure you’re prepared for any curveballs that may arise; forward-planning is key!

We all had the chance to spend more time at home last year to reconnect with family, ourselves and our peers on social media and build long-lasting relationships. But how can we use the lessons from last year to better ourselves as people and business owners today?

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

THE BUSINESS PLAN Points to consider for 2021

1

Would your business survive another lockdown?

This does not necessarily mean a pandemic or national lockdown but anything from ill health to an extended time off work due to other reasons. This applies to all businesses, big and small, start-ups and established businesses.

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How can you protect yourself and your income as a business owner?

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What does your cash flow look like both short term and long term?

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What are your business goals? This is one that I invite all business owners to question as no doubt the last 12 months have changed us all in one way or another and our goals may have shifted slightly. How good do you want to be? How successful do you want to be? How much money do you want to make?

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Do you have the right work/life balance?

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How can you streamline your business to reduce your stress levels and enjoy your role?

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Are your business or personal outgoings excessive? Think about the changes you can make and carefully manage any tax or loan repayments that will be coming up this year.

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Have you set up a private pension? Most directors and sole traders often neglect this important task and with savings heavily reduced during the pandemic, what does your future financial position look like?

Have you considered your exit strategy? An important question to ask at every stage of business, all business owners should have an idea of whether the business is built for sale or even inheritance. If it isn’t it may be worth thinking about this for the future.

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your business processes helping you to work 10 Are efficiently and how can you increase efficiency to increase profits? Automation is key, be it for booking appointments to managing your bookkeeping.

“By paying attention to the business plan, financial data and planning for the worst, you can improve the chances of success for you and your business this year.”

Often, the feedback I receive is that business owners are too busy in the business to think about most or all of the above and the last year has highlighted how much work there is to do to fully protect businesses and the wealth of the business owners.

As we start a new year, it is time to use all those skills and learnings from Covid-19 to improve your current business structure and processes. Not only will this help the business to recover but it will help you grow as a business owner.

The Telegraph reported last year that 20% of businesses fail in the first year and 60% fail by the third year. By paying attention to the business plan, financial data and planning for the worst, you can improve the chances of success for you and your business this year.

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly.

www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /riajaineaccounts

@ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty

Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83

NAIL Neighbours

TECHTALK

Can two separate nail businesses operating in such close proximity truly reside in harmony? Scratch finds out – and uncovers an exciting project for each founding pro

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ail technicians, Rachel Willis and Demi Mckenna, have more in common than the same career choice. Based next door to each other on Roman Road in Middlesbrough, they share a location and an opportunity; with each recently launching a product range with nail supplies company, NailOrder.

The Rachel Willis Nail Collection Rachel’s collection includes 10 drill bits, precision manicure scissors and sculpting foil. Soon to come is the Rachel Willis acrylic system.

Founded in October 1998 by nail technician, Tina Evans, NailOrder’s ethos has been to provide quality products at a fair price. By 2003, NailOrder had begun to supply essential everyday nail products to hundreds of technicians, salons, colleges and wholesalers. More recently, Tina’s focus turned to finding a gel polish brand that ticked all her boxes; great quality, safe, affordable and vegan-friendly. She began distributing Color Club gel polishes – as well as the brand’s nail lacquer and dip powder lines.

“Most of the colours across the range cannot be seen in their full beauty online or in the NailOrder catalogue, so I decided they need to be demonstrated by techs,” Tina reveals.

“I had been following the work of two nail artists local to me via Facebook and sent them some Color Club products. Both Rachel Willis and Demi Mckenna loved the Color Club range. I also saw their passion for nails and they reminded me of myself, 25 years ago when I was at the peak of my nail tech career.

“Rachel’s work is beautiful and I adore her competition nails and 3D art creations using acrylic and gel,” Tina continues. “I have watched her using her e-file safely and with absolute precision and felt that drill bits were missing from the NailOrder range. Therefore we have launched the Rachel Willis Nail Collection, including drill bits, drill, and an acrylic line.

“Demi loves bling and creates glitzy eye-catching nails. I realised that NailOrder’s nail art range could be extended and as Demi had always wanted her own range, we have been working together on the Juicy Gems Nail Art Collection.”

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An extreme nail by Rachel Willis using her acrylic range.

The Juicy Gems Nail Art Collection by Demi Mckenna

The collection so far features a variety of dazzling gold and crystal products, including a crown shaped brush holder glittered with diamantés, heart, square and leaf shaped gems for nails and a striking tear drop embellishment.

TECHTALK MEET RACHEL WILLIS

Rachel entered the nail industry in 2013 after completing a course with Essential Nails. Initially seeing the nail role as something she could do in her spare time, she quickly realised the hard work and skill involved and became passionate about the craft, eager to continue perfecting her skills.

She went on to complete a number of courses and gained a VTCT Level 3 diploma in Nail Technology. “I also travelled across Europe to achieve qualifications in the Russian manicure technique, nail art and extreme shapes – my favourite nail styles to create,” Rachel reveals.

Having always worked as a self-employed tech, Rachel started as a mobile nail tech before opening her first salon, Nookies, on Baker Street in Middlesbrough. After a few years, she opened her second salon, which featured a big training room. “At that time, I was working as a master educator for Brillbird, later rising to senior master educator and teaching VTCT qualifications and private courses,” Rachel continues. “After a few years, I had my second child and I struggled to fill both the mother and business owner role to the best of my ability, so I made the difficult decision to close Nookies and downsize my business.”

MEET DEMI MCKENNA

Demi’s interest in nails was apparent from a young age, when she adhered stickers to her fingertips and progressed to press-on nails. After leaving secondary school, she completed an NVQ Level 2 in Nail Technology at Middlesbrough College and began working from home. “I built up a small clientele, which rapidly grew and Juicy Beauty was born,” she reveals.

In 2015, almost six months after leaving college, Demi decided to look for a salon space after saving funds intently. Aged just 17, she found a site in Redcar and her dad stepped in to decorate, with Demi funding paint and supplies from her nail services. “I had three very successful years of business in Redcar and then decided to move to Middlesbrough,” Demi continues. “Since the move, my business has trebled in size and as many as nine members of staff can be found working at one time.”

In 2018, Rachel became a Scratch Stars finalist in two categories and began working under her own name on moving to a new salon premises on Roman Road. “The Rachel Willis nail studio is the perfect creative hub for my colleague, Emma Waites, and I. Within the space, I offer salon nails and courses for beginners and advanced techs.”

Style & substance

Juicy Beauty’s location, next to a row of shops and a primary school, allows for high footfall and the services have attracted a mixed clientele. “When Rachel and I came across each other, we got on really well and have been promoting each other’s services and product ranges ever since, as our styles are different,” Demi explains. “Requests from Juicy Beauty clients range from plain to long and shapely nails with plenty of art and glitz.

Style & substance

Rachel’s premises is bright and stylish, with bold Versace wallpaper on a feature wall and gold frames in which to display polishes. The exterior boasts grass and flower beds to welcome clients, who range from mid-twenties to in their 70’s. “I create such a variety of nail styles as each of my clients has an individual style,” Rachel reveals. “However, they all want the perfect nail look that lasts, and comfort in knowing that their natural nails are being cared for.

“My signature style involves bling and ombré looks and my clients are often inspired by celebrity nails, seeking bright shades. It’s great that my love for bling attracted the attention of Tina at NailOrder and I am so proud of my Juicy Gems Nail Art Collection. I look forward to creating more nail art products to amp up nail designs for pros worldwide.” /juicybeautyredcar

@juicy_beautyx

“I think my clients choose me because they appreciate the time I take to make sure their cuticles and nails are flawless and they also want high quality nail art. A lot of the nails I create have an artistic element to them, whether an extreme shape, one stroke flower painting or 4D acrylic nail art.

“Although I’m based so closely to Demi, our nail styles are very different so we don’t need to compete for clients. I specialise in freehand painting and adornments whereas Demi projects her art in the nail extension itself and adds plenty of sparkle.

“I’m excited to have launched my own brand with NailOrder and hope that the range continues to grow. A number of fellow pros have tested the drill bits and they’ve been a huge hit!” /rwawardnails

@rw_nail_master

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 85

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SCRATCHPADS

SCRATCH PADS All eyes on Atara Inspired by nature & exuding quality & style, take a step inside Atara Nail Bar, a sanctuary found on a busy south London high street HELENA BIGGS REPORTS

A ‘

tara’ is a biblical name meaning ‘crown’, and Atara Nail Bar is reigning supreme in South Croydon as a go-to destination for natural nailcare. Despite being forced to shut up shop just three weeks after opening due to the first coronavirus lockdown, the salon’s slick setup and concise but care-focused service menu are seeing its popularity soar.

Situated within commuting distance of central London, Atara is amidst a multi-cultural hub with a strong sense of community. It has been founded by Lhaki David, whose Christian faith has influenced more than just the salon’s name; playing a big part in helping her to stay positive throughout challenges brought on by the pandemic.

“Atara was born out of my passion for beauty and I was delighted 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

to open the premises on 29 February 2020, three months after acquiring the space,” Lhaki reveals. “My aim is to provide something very different to people living in Croydon – a salon that not only delivers a high quality service, but a social hub with a welcoming atmosphere, cocktails and coffee.”

Lhaki’s vision for Atara had been brewing for many years. She grew up in the Himalayan town of Kalimpong, nestled among India, Tibet and Nepal; a region in which a sense of community plays a huge part in everyday life. “Fun and hospitality combine to create spirited social hubs in the lively salons and cafés of these hillside towns and villages,” Lhaki reveals. “My memories of these happy environments spurred me on to create Atara – a place in which clients can laugh, relax and enjoy the experience given by friendly team members, who offer first-class treatments, drinks and unparalleled customer care.”

SCRATCHPADS Lhaki’s background in beauty extends to her childhood, when she chased her cousins and workers around the house with a bottle of nail polish. However, her parents didn’t acknowledge beauty as a profession, so she achieved a degree in politics from Delhi University. “When I moved to the UK in 1993, I enrolled on a manicure and pedicure course with City & Guilds, but I couldn’t pursue it while looking after my toddler, so I stalled my dream of opening a salon,” she reveals. “I decided to leave a career in the civil service to revisit my dream in 2015, and I enrolled at the London School of Beauty and Make-up.”

“I wanted the salon to have a friendly café vibe and chose a semi-industrial look. My branding is green and white, which symbolises the natural world.”

Upon graduation, Lhaki worked in high-end nail bars in central London to further hone her craft. “I wanted to launch a business with a unique sense of identity,” Lhaki continues. “I didn’t have a strong business acumen when starting out, but my sheer determination and ambition drove me to accomplish what I set out to do. However, two lockdowns have presented challenges for my small business.”

During the first lockdown last March, Lhaki experienced a rollercoaster of emotions, unsure if her new business could survive the impact. Navigating uncharted territory, she spent time researching and getting necessary precautions in place such as screen guards, thermometers, hand sanitisers and PPE, ready for reopening on 14 July 2020.

Service options Operating in a Covid-secure way with elements including temperature checks on arrival and additional cleaning, the team at Atara Nail Bar offers a concentrated menu for men and women. Lhaki oversees all treatments, runs the salon and makes the occasional cocktail while her three talented members of staff, Shanel, Narcisa and Plidy, provide nail services.

“We focus mainly on natural nailcare, as I feel that clients these days are more conscious about their nail health,” Lhaki reveals.

“Hands and feet are in constant use, so it’s important to take care of them – making them both look and feel good. The menu includes the 25-minute ‘Keep It Natural’ treatment, created with medical and food industry professionals in mind. This treatment is a full manicure or pedicure without nail painting – with pure coconut oil used in the soak before a hand massage.”

Also on the menu is the ‘Quick Change’ express treatment, the ‘Let’s Get Going’ full mani or pedi and the ‘Get Those Vibes Going’ treatment with mask and extended foot massage. All services have the option of a polish or gel polish finish with OPI or The Gel Bottle Inc products and glitter or a French finish if desired. Those under 10 years old can also enjoy a nail treat, with the 15-minute ‘Mini Munchkins’ service, and two treatment options have been specifically designed for men, launching due to popular demand.

“When we reopened the doors in July, all our clients said how happy it made them feel to see clean and professionally painted nails and toes,” Lhaki reveals. “We have a strong male client base and they often come after gym sessions for a pampering male pedicure.”

Salon style Lhaki was keen to attract a diverse audience, so chose a gender>> neutral décor. “I wanted the salon to have a friendly café vibe SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 89

SCRATCHPADS

and opted for a semi-industrial look,” she reveals. “My branding is green and white, which symbolises the natural world, which was important to me. I got ideas for the salon design from my travels, such as the suspended ceiling made from dark wood. I worked with a great team of very creative builders who helped to put my ideas together.”

The manicure area is set against an exposed brick wall from the Victorian era that was discovered during the renovation process and the team used recycled wood for the floors, bar and partition.

“The nail salon is open plan and all on one floor,” Lhaki reveals.

“There is a reception area and bar at the entrance, and beyond it are the manicure tables and pedicure platform.

“I feel that the combination of green and white hues offers senses of calm and serenity. I wanted Atara to have a café style vibe in which both men and women could enjoy treatments and have a drink. The natural styling reflects the natural focus of the nail menu.”

Attracting young professionals particularly, Lhaki partook in the ‘Treat Out To Help Out’ initiative after the first lockdown to engage even more clients, offering 20% off all treatments. The salon also offers loyalty cards and birthday deals and Lhaki has a view to focus on philanthrophy.

“I opened this salon when I turned 50, so I have gone into the business with my own set of values,” Lhaki reveals. “It’s unfortunate that my business was hit by the awful pandemic so soon into its launch but I am hopeful I will achieve what I set out to do. I have strong humanitarian drives and motivations and hope that Atara will one day give back to the community. I am hopeful – and look forward to – a positive year ahead.”

www.ataranailbar.co.uk /ataranailbar @AtaraNail 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@ataranailbar

*Some salon photos shown taken prior to lockdown & the implementation of Covid-secure measures.

SCRATCHPADS

“My aim is to provide something very different to people living in Croydon – a salon that not only delivers a high quality service, but a social hub with a welcoming atmosphere, cocktails and coffee.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 91

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

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Team Scratch is always seeking out the hottest nail trends and velvet nails are taking social media by storm! Velvet manicures feature a shimmery finish like the fabric presents. The look is created with a very finely milled glitter for a twotoned look. Check out some velvet nail styles that caught our eye...

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CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

MATCHING MANIS

Creativity in nail art is something never lacking and the Scratch team marvelled at this masterpiece by @younailedeat.

Instagram.co

94 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

With cleaning more necessary than ever before, it was only a matter of time before cleaning products found their way into nail art designs. Sophie Parkinson of Soph Builds Nails created an instantly recognisable Fairy Liquid nail art design with moving bubble that attracted a lot of attention on social media and in the UK press.

Check Sophie out on Instagram via @soph_builds_nails and scan here to see how she created the masterpiece

brity…

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Celebs brought their best and brightest beauty routines to the 2020 American Music Awards, but it was only actress, Megan Fox and boyfriend, rapper Machine Gun Kelly, who had a matching moment. The couple made their red carpet debut with coordinating minimal, geometric manicures and we are here for it! Brittney Boyce of Nails of LA created the look.

Singer, Billie Eilish partnered with Gucci to release a series of short videos – and her long red nails with Gucci logo by Tammy Taylor stole most of the focus!

SCRATCHMEDIA

s e l y t s l i a n b e l Ce We love seeing what nail styles celebrities are sporting and these designs by Michelle Humphrey using Magpie Beauty nail art products really caught our eye! The talented session stylist created holographic smilies for Rita Ora and nails with sparkly additions for Dua Lipa. Check out @nailsbymh on Instagram to see more of her work.

Trends to try in 2021

Image courtes

Instagram.com/officiallymcconaughey

y of YouTube:

Instagram.com/vanitypr ojectsmia

Kylie Jenner

1. Abstract organic shapes

2. Unique French manicures

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What was meant to be a wholesome YouTube video of a mother and her daughter baking Grinch-themed cupcakes drew a lot of controversy for child safety, as Kylie Jenner baked cupcakes with her daughter Stormi while sporting extremely long, sharp fingernails.

Viewers were concerned that her nails would harm Stormi – yet we all know that Kylie is no stranger to sporting a lengthy nail look.

3. Coffin nails

nnails om/raelondo

Singer, Michael Bublé, let his daughter treat him to a scarlet manicure and posted a pic on Instagram with the caption: ‘Daughter, friend and affordable nail technician.’

4. Natural nail tones

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The pandemic has meant that masks are now an essential part of our fashion focus and of course nail art now has to match! Here’s our pick of stylish nail techs from across the globe showing off their masks with matching manicures…

Instagram.c

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MATCHY MATCHY

om/nails.pr

oud

American actor, Matthew McConaughey has revealed his intense at-home manicure ritual, which takes 45 minutes.

The Oscar-winning star opened up about how he likes to sit and trim his fingernails as he finds it a very soothing process

DON’T BE A GRINCH

Instagra

Matthew McConaughey’s manicures

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 95

NAILDESIGNS

This striking dogtooth design funks up short fingertips and looks oh-so chic.

By @beautyspace_charlotte.

These fun and feminine enhancements

by Joanna Bandurska feature 3D elements in shades of pink.

London tech, @chariasnails, turns up the heat with a flaming effect that extends down the nail from the tip.

Fingernails ge in Put a twist on a classic design with CALLIE ILEY’S roundup of funky French-inspired fingertips

Focus

Rachel of @impactbeautybyrachel creates a thin blue glittery tip for this gorgeous wintry take on the classic design.

East London based mobile tech, @polishedbylolo, calls her fancy gold foil design the ‘double decker French’.

Doncaster’s @nailsbymelanie1 adds drama with length and a striking black and white marble effect.

French tips get a modern makeover with cow print and a touch of lilac, thanks to Swansea beauty pro, Iola Pallade.

Lucy McCarthy mirrors her white smile line mid-nail and creates shapely and dramatic black tips.

A chevron French style in a bold blue hue makes an impact, courtesy of TGB brand ambassador, @nailsbyheathere.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 96 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Entry & submissions close midnight 17.01.21 Your favourite nail competition is now online and you can enter until midnight on Sunday 17 January 2021! You’ve had the opportunity to compete in five Nailympia locations across the globe - now it’s time to compete from your home!

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If you’ve already entered you have until midnight on Sunday 17 January 2021 to submit your entries! Good luck!

In association with @nailympiacompetitions

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