Scratch Magazine April 2023

SPRING 2023

SHADE SENSE COLLECTION A breath of fresh colour

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

Introducing the 2023 Spring collection from CND™ : SHADE SENSE. This soft, optimistic palette brings together the conceptual & soothing world of ASMR and colour, combining texture and sensorial elements to create beautiful spring manicures and pedicures.

Available in both CND™ SHELLAC™ Brand Gel Polish and CND™ VINYLUX™ Long Wear Polish.

Discover more about CND™.

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Nineteen years of... ®

Issue 240 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Copywriter Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327

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COVER CREDITS Image courtesy of OPI, featuring shades from the Me, Myself & OPI collection, available via www.trade.opiuk.com

Images courtesy of Glitterbels

Shades shown are from the Unbelievabel Gel Pastel Collection.

/OPINailsUK

Available via www.glitterbels.com

@opinailsuk

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2023 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

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Contents APRIL 2023

FEATURES 18 26 40 48 50 54

Express Yourself With OPI

Recreate this month’s stunning cover nails & suss out upcoming trends with a helping hand from OPI

Egg-cel At Easter Nail Art

Crack out your nail art tools & indulge in Easter nail design inspo & seasonal products

The French Evolution

Perfect the classic French mani & explore ways to funk it up – whichever nail system you choose to use

Allergy Aware

Scratch marks Allergy Awareness Week with advice on handling & preventing reactions in the nail space

Art Class

40

Follow Louella Belle educators on a ‘three-day training journey with Artistic Nail Design in London

The World’s Star Nail Artist: Meet The Top 21!

Revealed: the 21 talent pros who’ll be battling it out in a global nail art competition in a bid to win a cash prize

60 68 72 78 84 90

Fashion-Forward Fingertips

Check out the nail styles that stormed the autumn/winter 2023 runways at Fashion Weeks worldwide

Tipping Point

Should clients tip their nail tech for treatments? Nail pros explore both sides of the coin

A Stand-Out Paint Job

Nail tech, Andy Rumford, shares a striking painted addition to his salon that complements his creative handiwork

Career Kickstart

Introducing Couture Careers: an initiative to support a deserving individual’s journey into the nail industry

Conversation Corner

Prevent oversharing & heighten your professionalism with advice on setting boundaries for client chats

Your Guide To Nailympia Competitions

Get the lowdown on the entry process & history of the globally renowned Nailympia competition organisation

26

60

72

REGULARS

10 20 22 32 34 36 52 58 64 66 70 76 80 82 88 96 98

Nail Nation The Scratch Scoop The Hot List The Cosmetic Climate Calendar Girl Making Moves With Mino Vo How To Boss Your Salon The Halo Effect Through The Keyhole Product Spotlight The Mobile Club The Client Files Readers Gallery Scratch Stats Tech For Techs Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

Nail NATION

business

news & views

Beauty & wellbeing apprenticeships launch under Gerrard International partnership

Beauty Therapy T Levels postponed until 2024 The Department of Education has announced that the T Levels in Hairdressing, Barbering and Beauty Therapy will be postponed from September 2023 until September 2024.

The two-year courses, undertaken after GCSEs, offer students practical and knowledge-based learning at a school or college. In addition, students undertake an industry placement of at least 315 hours (45 days).

The postponement comes after the Department, Institute for Apprenticeships & Technical Education, Ofqual and relevant awarding bodies decided that more time was needed to consult with employers and sector bodies to ensure a successful launch.

The decision has been welcomed by the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF). Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of quality & standards, comments: “We need more time as a sector to introduce the T Levels to employers, so that they understand that they will provide a broad education offering across the sector, not a replacement for the NVQ. “Salon owners need to be educated about T Levels, the breadth of education that will be covered, and the requirements of hosting a student on a work placement.

We look forward to working closely with the Department of Education over the next year to ensure the successful launch of T Levels in 2024.” www.gov.uk / www.nhbf.co.uk

Nail and beauty distributor & education provider, Gerrard International, has partnered with Armonia Training Academy, to help beauty businesses fill recruitment and skill gaps with minimal investment and time.

Under the partnership, two apprenticeship courses have launched: the Wellbeing & Holistic Apprenticeship and Beauty Professional Apprenticeship, helping to raise awareness of the value apprentices bring to the beauty workplace, and save time and expense spent on training new recruits.

Armonia Training Academy is founded and directed by Diane Hey, who has over 34 years’ experience as a therapist, employer & educator, and is a passionate advocate for standards, development and education.

Supporting businesses throughout the entire process, the academy checks delegates’ eligibility and presents them to businesses for interview, before they are trained in Gerrard International treatment brands and partner products. A fifth of their learning takes place off the job and 80% is handson experience. On completion, the apprentice receives a government-approved qualification. Funding is accessed via levy or non-levy apprenticeship funding.

For more information about the courses, email academy@gerrardinternational.com or to book, email careers@armonia.co.uk

Olympia Beauty event moves to ExCel Following 18 years of events at Olympia exhibition centre, London, Olympia Beauty is relocating to ExCel to run alongside Salon International on 15 & 16 October 2023.

The move comes after a long-term agreement was met between Olympia Beauty founders, Scott Derbyshire and Ian Archbold, and Mark Moloney, MD of the Professional Beauty Group, the new owner of Olympia Beauty.

Scratch magazine, co-founded by Scott Derbyshire, will continue to support the event and stage the flagship Nailympia competition. The event will now have the full backing of the Professional Beauty Group. www.olympiabeauty.co.uk

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

business

Nail NATION Spring Budget: NHBF reacts to Chancellor’s measures

Chancellor of the Exchequer, Jeremy Hunt, presented his Spring Budget 2023 to Parliament last month. He commented: “In the Autumn Statement 2022, the government took the difficult decisions needed on tax and spending to restore economic stability, support public services, and lay the foundation for long-term growth.

“The government is building on this foundation, with a plan to halve inflation, grow the economy and get debt falling.”

Key points from the Budget include: • An enhanced credit for small and medium-sized businesses if they spend 40% or more of their total expenditure on research and development.

These businesses can claim credit of £27 for every £100 spent.

• The energy price guarantee will remain at £2,500 until July 2023.

• An extension of the 5p cut in fuel duty for a year, with fuel duty frozen for the next 12 months.

• A new apprenticeship, called a ‘returnership’, will be created for those aged 50+ wanting to return to work.

Commenting on the announcement, Richard Lambert, chief executive of the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF), said: “It can’t be a ‘growth Budget’ with no action on the VAT threshold, which is acting as a strong disincentive for growth for small and micro sector businesses.

“As a result of exponential increases in energy and business costs, some employers are now tragically being forced to let apprentices go because the numbers simply don’t add up anymore.

“While the investment zones, support for childcare and ‘returnerships’ may benefit some in the sector, there is little to offer immediate relief to businesses locked into extortionate energy contracts. We call on the government and Ofgem to facilitate urgent talks with suppliers, to at least allow business contract payments over a longer period of time.”

Timely introduces mental health training for beauty therapists & hairdressers Timely business management software has partnered with Tom Chapman, founder of wellbeing awareness organisation, Lions Barber Collective, to develop a mental health training masterclass. The two-hour virtual training course will take beauty and hair professionals through four pillars of awareness; Recognise, Ask, Listen and Help, to support clients facing mental health struggles.

Designed not to diagnose, advise or prescribe, but instead create a safer, more understanding environment in the salon, this initiative has been led

by EverCommerce’s head of strategic partnerships for Timely, Tamara Reid. It marks Timely’s incorporation of educational certification into its product offering. Reid comments: “At Timely, we’re passionate about helping hair and beauty therapists to provide an exceptional client experience. If we can empower professionals to do that through continual learning on topics like mental health, leadership and communication, we know we’re giving back to the industry in the best way possible.

“Professionals working in the hair and beauty industry are in an incredibly privileged position of trust and intimacy. With Tom Chapman as a facilitator on this masterclass, guiding learners through these often sensitive conversations, we’re excited to be able to offer this much-needed content.”

Tom Chapman adds: “72% of those who take their life have had no contact with mental health services in the 12 months before they die, but have probably had a haircut or beauty treatment.

The hair, barbering and beauty Tom Chapman industry infrastructure is incredible – but we don’t want to turn these pros into doctors or therapists. The idea is that we can bridge the gap between the communities we serve and the resources available.”

Access the training masterclass via www.gettimely.com/mental-health-masterclass

Image courtesy of Bara Hoyle (@baraandbeauty)

SANITISER SPRAY LAUNCHES FOR HANDS & NAIL TOOLS Labology 3, founded by clinical nutritionist & former holistic clinic owner, Kay Ali, has unveiled a hygiene water spray; The Super Antibacterial Sanitiser Spray. Alcohol-free, Kay explains: “This all-purpose cleansing water offers gentle yet effective hygiene measures for hands, grooming tools and more. There is no need to rinse, and it eliminates 99.99% of viruses on skin, tools, surfaces and fabrics to a standard compliant with the Biocidal Products Regulation.” The 65ml spray, ideal for mobile pros and workstations, is available in packs of two, three, six or 16, priced from £16.99 inc VAT (two-pack). A 250ml size is also available. www.labology3.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Skincare brand, Australian Bodycare, has announced distribution partnerships with both Salons Direct and London-based Chris & Sons. The brand’s goal in recent years has been to expand the UK reach of its pro and retail products, which feature Australian tea tree oil. www.trade.australianbodycare.com 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The team at Dr. PAWPAW, provider of multi-use beauty and skincare products, has donated $2,500 to the USA arm of charity, Save The Children. The brand created a 25ml Shimmer Balm featuring the charity’s logo and donated 50¢ from each sale via US retail partner, Ulta Beauty, to support the education needs of children in rural America. www.drpawpaw.com

Sarah Hartley, founder of social media marketing company, Blossom Tree Social, has launched a Facebook group for solo entrepreneurs and small business owners. The group is designed to ignite supportive conversations online, and faceto-face networking opportunities will follow. Join the group by scanning here

NO CHIP NO WEAR NO WAIT

Gorgeous GLOSSY COLOUR From trend-led seasonal collections to stunning timeless shades, Gellux Gel Polishes are a must-have for every nail kit.

Available at your wholesaler now.

#Gellux

www.salonsystem.com

@salonsystem

pleasure

Nail NATION The Hair & Beauty Charity heads to Ibiza for bike ride Gerrard International founder recognised in OK! magazine Susan Gerrard, founder of Gerrard International and the Mii Cosmetics brand, has been recognised and interviewed by OK! magazine, alongside three other inspirational ‘beauty bosses’.

The interview, available in print and online, coincided with a limited edition ‘Female Founders Edit’ of the OK! Beauty Box, which featured Mii Cosmetics’ Feature Length Lash Lover.

When quizzed by OK! about why she set up her own brand, Susan comments: “Having been a manicurist for many years, I brought nail brand, Jessica, into the UK from America and it revolutionised the market. Before then, manicures were only done at the hairdressers: never beauty salons. After that success, I decided to found my own make-up and nail brand, so I could be master of my own destiny and deliver what I knew women wanted.” www.gerrardinternational.com

The Hair & Beauty Charity’s annual charity bike ride will be held in Ibiza, 26-30 September 2023, and is open to cycling enthusiasts.

A place costs £600, with a minimum fundraising donation of £300. Hosted by Victor Pajak of Headquarters Hair Salon in Surrey, the funds generated from the event will enable the charity to continue providing a financial lifeline to struggling industry professionals and their families.

Pajak comments: “We’re delighted to be taking the Hair & Beauty Charity bike ride to a new location for 2023. Ibiza will provide us with the perfect backdrop and route for both experienced cyclists and novices. The Hair & Beauty Charity does a fantastic job of supporting our industry and helping those most in need, so I’d encourage all of our industry friends and supporters to sign up.”

The cost includes half board accommodation at the Azuline Pacific Hotel in the centre of San Antonio, group airport transfers and use of a carbon road bike. Flights and travel insurance are not included.

For more information and to sign up, visit www.hairandbeautycharity.org

Embrace comfort & practicality with wipeable nail pillow Majestic Towels has unveiled the Wipeable Memory Foam Nail Pillow; a compact pillow designed for use on manicure stations of all sizes. Using an innovative memory foam open cell structure to conform to the contours of the hands and wrists, the pillow suits daily use for mobile, salon or spa-based techs. Available in white and steel grey, the product is soft, wipeable and suitable for use with antibacterial cleaners. It features Fresh™ technology to eliminate odours caused by yeast, fungus and bacteria.

The Wipeable Memory Foam Nail Pillow is £17.75 + VAT, available via www.majestictowels.co.uk

Winners revealed in FNP & PB nail competition The Federation of Nail Professionals hosted the nail competitions at industry event, Professional Beauty, 5-6 March, with 170 competition seats taken across eight core categories for students and professionals. Competition directors, Jacqui and Sean O’Sullivan, administered and judged the event, which welcomed categories including UV Gel Polish, Manicure and Shape Of Your Art. Scan here for the results

EVOLVE BRUSH TECHNIQUES WITH L’OMNI MANICURE TOOL Following the success of its ergonomic nail prep brush, Manicure Project has unveiled the L’Omni model. Due to its universal fit, the brush is ideal for educators, as students can pick one up and practice correct brushing techniques without needing to establish a fit size beforehand, as with the La Brush collection.

Manicure Project’s patented ergonomic brush designs are lightweight, with a clean aesthetic.

They can be rotated when and however needed, so that the tech’s wrist can remain in a neutral posture and be protected from repetitive strain injury.

Soft and compact bristles are suited to precision work and repetitive use on sensitive cuticles.

The L’Omni and La Brush collections are available via www.manicureproject.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES The International Veuve Clicquot Barometer on Women In Entrepreneurship , which surveyed 34,000 adults across the globe about their views on entrepreneurism, found that the UK has one of the larger entrepreneurship gender gaps, with 47% of women believing that building a business is riskier for a woman than for a man (versus 46% in 2021 and 42% in 2019).

14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Saks hair and beauty teams and customers have fundraised £200,000 for The Eve Appeal, which raises awareness and funds for life-saving research into five gynaecological cancers.

Salon teams embraced activities including a Wing Walk at 140mph, a 12k ‘Total Warrior’ obstacle run, and fielding a team to join The Eve Appeal’s Walk To Remember, trekking 26 miles along Hadrian’s Wall. www.saks.co.uk

Researchers at the University of East Anglia have developed technology that turns water and oilbased beauty products into paper-like discs, removing up to 98% of water content until they are rehydrated with a drop of water. www.uea.ac.uk/research

DATES FOR THE DIARY

SALON SYSTEM REWARDS EXPERTS WITH WELLNESS EVENT Lash, wax and nail product provider, Salon System, hosted a wellness event for its professional beauty experts, in recognition of their hard work and brand support. The day involved a relaxing sound bath held by @TheSoundTherapist to help the experts learn switching off techniques, followed by a lunch and discussions surrounding industry trends and how wellness practices can be incorporated into treatment offerings.

“Beauty professionals are renowned for caring for others through the treatments they provide and time they give, so we thought this would be an ideal opportunity to encourage our experts to take time out for themselves, relax and switch off. The sound bath was the perfect choice,” shares Kathy Holroyd, marketing director at Salon System. “It was helpful to hear from our experts about how they are working, what is happening in their business, and how wellness actions are supporting their lives. It was a wonderful, relaxing day with a great team of people.” www.salonsystem.com

Celebrity manicurist announces Nailpreneur online business course winner New York-based celebrity manicurist, Julie Kandalec, has announced the first winner of The Maya Nailpreneur Scholarship, an eight-week online business course to turn nail pros into ‘Nailpreneurs’.

The scholarship supports students who are interested in growing their careers, and helps aspiring nail professionals to level up their business and entrepreneurial skills within the competitive nail industry.

The scholarship will be awarded annually to one licenced nail artist or student, who demonstrates a passion for the industry and a strong commitment to their education. It will cover the full cost of tuition for the programme, with two runner-ups receiving money towards the cost of tuition.

Applicants went through a series of challenges in order to qualify, including creating a nail art look for a celebrity to wear at the Grammys and a written assignment on their career journey and why they’d benefit from the programme.

Sara Lewis (@sarandipity_nails) from Bethel, Connecticut, scooped the grand prize. She comments: “When I saw that Julie was offering The Maya Nailpreneur Scholarship, I knew I had to apply. The process was fun, if challenging, and I’m so thrilled to have won! This course will give me the skillset to expand my business and level up my career as a nail technician. I cannot thank Julie enough for this amazing opportunity.” @julieknailsnyc & @julieknailacademy

Nail & beauty distribution company, Louella Belle, has launched rewards programme, Louella Loyalty, offering vouchers in exchange for points accumulated from purchases, following on social media, attending training and more. www.louellabelle.co.uk/rewards

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LY 23 JU

Wellness brand, The Massage Company, has opened its first specialist massage centre in the north of England.

Founders, Charlie Thompson and Elliot Walker, opened the first massage centre offering highquality massage to the mainstream in Camberley, Surrey in March 2016, and the new Altrincham premises marks the duo’s eighth location. www.massagecompany.co.uk

Multi-award-winning salon brand, Townhouse, has opened in two further locations, bringing the total number of Townhouse salons in London and the southeast to 12. Townhouse Victoria, near Victoria station, London, opened on 14 March, and Townhouse Guildford, situated in the Tunsgate Quarter, Surrey, opened on 7 March. www.mytownhouse.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

HM-15344 © 2022 Nail Alliance - North America, Inc.

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® are pleased to announce the launch of the new Pure Beauty collection. With its dynamic range of subdued pastels balanced by popping spring hues, Pure Beauty takes you to a place where the loveliness of nature is at the tips of your fingers.

TEST THE WATERS

MODEL IS WEARING: RADIANT RENEWAL

LEAF IT ALL BEHIND

MALVA

RADIANT RENEWAL

AVAILABLE AT

gsgroupuk.com Georgie Smedley Group Phone: 01708 465900 www.gsgroupuk.com | Email: info@gsgroupuk.com

BED OF PETALS

PRETTY SIMPLE

COVERSTORY

Express yourself with Command attention by recreating the striking nail style on this month’s front cover & ensure it goes the distance with top tips & product picks The free and happy nature of the spring/summer season affords an excellent opportunity for self-expression, and OPI is helping to nail this ethos with its latest colour collection, Me, Myself & OPI. “Nail colour offers an easy and versatile way to express your personality,” comments Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI cofounder & brand ambassador. “With Me, Myself & OPI, we’re inviting wearers to join us in the metaverse – or as we say, colourverse – where we can be whoever we want to be. The only limit is your imagination.”

The 12 hues in the range feature a combination of Suzi Weiss-Fischmann punchy brights and pretty pastels, available in GelColor, Nail Lacquer and Infinite Shine formulas, with selected shades also available in Powder Perfection. The versatility of the hues is shown across the brand’s campaign imagery, which features nailcare fans from all walks of life, who each express their personality through their nail colour and style.

Our front cover star exudes the joy that comes from freedom of self-expression. Happy, smiley and engaging, the nails feature the sunny yellow pastel shade, Blinded

By The Ring Light, from the Me, Myself & OPI range.

“With warm, welcoming shades in a range of crème, shimmer and pearl hues, this collection encourages consumers to have fun with colour,” comments Jill Bartoshevich, OPI global director of colour equity.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

THE DIAMOND EFFECT

Does your client seek length or added strength to showcase their chosen artistry or nail shade?

Build and sculpt a strong, durable and high-shine nail finish with OPI’s Diamond Gel. The odourless, file-off hard gel system is also ideal for overlays, providing the perfect foundation for nail colour services that need an extra boost. It features a Base Gel, five Builder+ Diamond Gel shades, Clear Diamond Gel and Gloss Top Sealer, and leaves a natural-feeling, weightless finish with a glass-like shine.

Interested in training?

Diamond Gel training is available nationwide at OPI’s regional education centres. A Diamond Gel bundle is also available, featuring the Base Gel and Gloss Top Sealer, as well as four Builder+ Gel shades and the Clear Diamond Gel, a marketing material package and one free day of OPI education, for £279.48 + VAT. Visit www.opieducationuk.com to find out more.

COVERSTORY

1

Q&A: Belinda Price, OPI UK&I education & capability manager I PREDICT…

“Expect requests for cut outs, piercings, embellishments and fun elements on longer, square-shaped nails this season.

On shorter nails, we will see pastel shades used to bring a fairytale world to life; I’m thinking clouds on pink nails, sweets, ice cream, rainbows and art that brings clients joy!”

I ♥ DIAMOND GEL BECAUSE…

2

“Diamond Gel is a versatile product that I use to sculpt, overlay and build. It’s very easy to use at speed, looks beautiful and offers three weeks’ wear between infills. In my salon, the Diamond Gel system has worked brilliantly for clients that suffer from lifting.”

MY TOP TIP FOR WORKING WITH DIAMOND GEL IS…

“As with all hard gels, you may wish to flash cure between applications. When stirring the pot, try to gently fold, rather than stir it rapidly, which can cause bubbles to form in the gel.”

GET THE COVER LOOK!

WHAT I ♥ ABOUT THE ME, MYSELF & OPI COLLECTION…

Step 1 Prep the nails for gel polish application and apply one coat of OPI GelColor Stay Strong or Stay Classic Base Coat. Cure for 30 seconds, then apply two coats of OPI GelColor in Bubble Bath, curing between each coat for 30 seconds in the OPI lamp.

3

Step 2 Create a French-style tip using OPI GelColor in Blinded By The Ring Light. Cure for 30 seconds and repeat this step for even coverage.

MY FAVE SHADE IN THE COLLECTION IS…

Step 3 Apply a coat of OPI GelColor Stay Shiny Top Coat and cure for 30 seconds. Remove the gel residue with OPI’s N.A.S 99 and an Expert Touch Nail Wipe. Apply OPI Powder Perfection Base Coat where the crystals are to be placed and, using a crystal applicator, place crystals on the nail and allow to dry.

To finish, apply cuticle oil to each nail and massage in.

You will need: OPI GelColor Stay Classic Base Coat £19.90 + VAT

OPI GelColor in Bubble Bath and Blinded By The Ring Light £19.90 + VAT each

“I think we all need to invest in ourselves and make more ‘me time’. I love this message in the collection, which is fun, relaxed and has 12 beautiful shades.

There is something for everyone in an OPI collection but for me, I’d wear every one of these beauties!”

“This month, it’s Incognito Mode, but ask me again next month and I’ll have picked another!”

“There is something for everyone in an OPI collection.”

OPI Stay Shiny Top Coat £19.90 + VAT

TOP TIP

To extend wear of the embellishments, buff the shine from where you are going to apply them before adhering, and apply GelColor Stay Shiny Top Coat around the perimeter.

OPI Multi-sized Clear Crystals £51.40 + VAT OPI N.A.S 99 Cleansing Solution (450ml) £32.20 + VAT

OPI products are available via www.trade.opiuk.com /opinailsuk @opinailsuk @opinailsuk @opiproducts

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

In the

MAIL...

Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

A trio of skincare products landed in our postbag: +serumology’s Squalane Professional Facial Serum to hydrate skin and balance the complexion, +maskology’s Hyaluronic Acid Professional Facial Sheet Mask to soothe, and the +maskology Retinol+ Vitamin C Professional Under Eye Mask, designed to brighten tired or ageing eyes and improve the appearance of pigmentation.

Available via leading wholesalers.

What we’re wearing...

Managing editor, Helena, visited Rebecca Ellis of @beautyby__beck for a spring-friendly mani on a pink iridescent builder gel base, complete with pastel dots and floral nail art.

Aimee Louise Searle of Truly Beauty, Tonbridge, tended to Chloe’s nails, using Glitterbels products to create a nude design with white marbling and speckles of glitter.

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Fellow news & featur es writer, Rebecca, headed to The Queen’s Hotel in Ne wport, Wales, for the launch event of the Love Your Journ ey gel polish collec tion from Home of Nail Art (HONA). Split into an educational schedule and party, the day saw Chantelle Vermont of Cla wgasmic share positive ways to use social media , and beauty business coach, Za ara Kin g, ser ve d up gu ida nc e for an un sto pp ab le mi nd set . They joined HO NA ambassador, Sacha Wilkinson, Lou isa Mallet of That’s Ha ndy, and Lorna Malkin of Lorna Marie Nails, for a panel dis cussion on how to grow a nail business in 2023. The venue was later reopened, decked out with a 360-deg ree video booth, photo props and mu sical entertainment for the party.

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Michael Hens co-founder,

NEWPRODUCTS

Glitterbels Rainbow Hearts £6.45 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Funk up spring/summer manis with these fun rainbow hearts; ideal for encapsulating in gel or L&P acrylic.

The 15g pot features chunky hearts in shades of blue, pink, orange, green, yellow and lilac for a mix and match mani, or choose a single hue to add a sweet accent to a design.

Jessica Custom Colour Art Haus Box Set £33 + VAT/RRP £66 www.gerrardinternational.com Drawing inspiration from Jessica’s favourite artistic influences, the six Custom Colour shades in the Art Haus collection have been matched to 2023’s trending hues. Eternal Sunshine is a light yellow crème, Tree Of Life is a soft sage green, and Seraphine adds a delicate touch with a white iridescent pearl finish. The shades are available individually (£5.50 + VAT/RRP £11) and in GELeration for £17.75 + VAT each.

List THE HOT

+Maskology Thermotherapy Professional Heated Eye Mask £1.95 + VAT. Available at wholesalers nationwide.

Add a relaxing element to a beauty treatment and help clients experience a moment of calm with this handy single-use eye mask, that’s also ideal for retailing. It gently heats over the eye area when worn and features the soothing scent of chamomile. Ideal for tired, strained eyes, clients should wear the mask for 20 minutes.

22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

CND Shellac™ Shade Sense Collection £89.70 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Soft hues designed to evoke a state of serenity make up CND™’s spring nail colour collection, Shade Sense. Available in both Shellac™ (£14.95 + VAT) and Vinylux™ (£5.95 + VAT) formulas, the six hues include Mint & Meditation, a shimmering mint pastel; Quartz Correct, a peachy pale pink, and Seeing Citrine, a sparkling mellow yellow.

HIVE Solutions Lychee & Raspberry Drizzle Manicure & Pedicure Soak £4.75 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Cleanse and soothe fatigued hands and feet with this nonfoaming soak, which features the vibrant fragrance of lychee and raspberry. Packed with antioxidants, the soak includes tea tree oil and is designed to be a cost-effective solution for salons; for use in both manicure and pedicure treatments.

NEWPRODUCTS

Lecenté Iridescent Flakes – The Spec-tacular Collection £14.99 + VAT each www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk Elevate spring nail designs and create magical, eye-catching finishes with these three iridescent nail art flakes from Lecenté. Choose from Fairy Wings, Mermaid Tail and Unicorn Horn, which turn powder-like when applied to Lecenté Layer It or the inhibition layer of gel polish.

Entity New Beginnings Collection £10.95 + VAT each www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk Liven up manicures with the sophisticated shades in Entity’s New Beginnings collection; available in both Colour Couture Soak Off Gel Polish and Lacquer formulas, to suit different desired wear times.

Clients can choose from six hues, including the minty Go Green and dazzling Dancing Jewels.

Yoshi Blue Jeans Collection £5.95 inc VAT each www.nailslaundry.co.uk Colour nails blue-tiful with a choice of nine shades from the Yoshi Blue Jeans gel polish collection. The 6ml hues, which include ocean blue Mom Jeans and purple-toned Athletic Fit, are highly pigmented with a creamy, medium/thick consistency. Sandwich two coats of colour between the Yoshi Base Coat and Top Coat for a long-lasting finish.

Save 10% with code SCRATCH23 Lyco’Pedi Professional Collection £70 + VAT www.lyconuk.com Step up your footcare game with Lyco’Pedi’s full kit of pedi products to rejuvenate and re-energise tired feet. A soak, lotion, sugar scrub, hydrating mask, callus remover, smoothing cream and pedi paddle feature in a handy carry bag, and the products include the hydrating properties of hyaluronic acid and shea butter.

INK London iLac Diamond Collection £66 inc VAT www.inknails.com Dazzle clients with the pretty gel polish hues in the iLac Diamond Collection; six shades with densely packed sparkle. Pink Sunrise (i-248) is perfect for holiday mani/ pedis, while Darya-L-Nur (i-245) and The Pink Star (i-244) are softer pink hues that are suited to spring and wedding manis.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

COLOR BUILDER

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

CONFIDENCE IN A BOTTLE

Discover more on the CND™ PLEXIGEL™ Shades.

sweetsquared.com 03 3 3 0 0 0 70 0 0

SEASONALNAILINSPO

Egg-cel at Easter In need of some cracking Easterthemed nail inspo?

Explore REBECCA HITCHON’S pick of seasonal designs & products

t r a l i na From simple nail finishes to detailed character art, the possibilities for Easter nail design are endless, so consider splitting your nail art offerings into levels to aid your clients’ decision-making processes. Sorting by complexity, time and cost not only creates clarity for clients, but helps you prepare for each appointment.

Levels often range from one (simple, speedy nail art) to three (most complex).

Here, we share Easter nail art inspiration for each of these categories, and provide product picks to help you satisfy your clients’ topical mani requests.

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Nailchemy Dotting Nail Art Tools (3pk) £9.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

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Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Onyx £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

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Lecenté Create Gel Polish in Bunny from the Spec-tacular Collection £11.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

/byjaex

Level 1

leigh

Mini Egg madness

This matte style by @bysaraleigh perfectly replicates the finish of Mini Eggs,

Gelish Art Form Gel in Essential White £9.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.salon-services.com

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in Dreamboat £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Eternal Sunshine £5.50 + VAT/RRP £11 www.gerrardinternational.com

Black and gold dots feature on the base of this multi-coloured French design by @byjaex, creating a speckled effect.

STEP-BY-STEP: Egg-cellent Creme Egg nails Lecenté’s head of education, Theresa Foddering (aka The NailDresser), shares how to create a simple but effective nail look using a Creme Egg wrapper.

Step 1 Apply one coat of Lecenté Create Gel Polish in Carnaby and cure.

Step 2 Apply a coat of Lecenté Create Foil Gel and cure.

Step 3 Place a Creme Egg wrapper onto the nail and press to adhere. Trim any excess wrapper and tailor the back edge.

Step 4 Trim, allowing a small free margin, and file off any overhang. File in a downward motion: not back and forth. Apply your chosen top coat, ensuring all edges are entirely sealed and that the wrapper is encapsulated.

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Lecenté products are available via www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk

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SEASONALNAILINSPO

Delicious designs

Speckled shapes

Level 2

OPI GelColor in Clear Your Cash £19.90 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Entity Color Couture Soak Off Gel Polish in Naturally Blue-tiful £10.95 + VAT www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk

Halo Gel Polish Chocolate Box Collection £15.50 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Salon System Gellux Gel Polish in Beach You To It £11.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

The GelBottle Inc in Chocolate £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Lecenté creator, Kirsty McGeoch, is behind this speckled swirl style. The design took approximately one hour and 15 minutes to create, and had a charge of £37.

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en Vogue lac it! Gel Polish in Utopia £POA www.envoguenails.eu

naileditbeauty

CND ShellacTM in Seeing Citrine £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Enchanté £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

Spring florals and Mini Egg speckling are a perfect match, as demonstrated by @naileditbeauty.

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A glossy chocolate hue and ‘dripping’ feature nail make for a mouth-watering style, by @crystalnails_ag.

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Mint Tint Gel Polish in Caramel £11.99 + VAT www.minttint.co.uk

Matte and glossy finishes mix in this chocolate French tip look, courtesy of @nailsxmina.

Negative space hearts and abstract shapes feature alongside multi-coloured speckled nail finishes, courtesy of @charlottehennessynails.

HONA Fan Brush £7.50 + VAT www.homeofnailart.com

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SEASONAL SEASONALNAILINSPO

Lecenté Chrome Nail Powder in Glass Slipper £14.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk

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Trend alert!

STEP-BY-STEP: Some-bunny to love

One of this season’s most sought-after styles, chrome elements can elevate Easter nail looks. An ideal way to keep clients’ fingertips timely and trending, there are numerous ways to incorporate the finish into Easter designs.

Instagra

Artistic Chrome Pen in Pink Opal £6.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Bunnies outlined in silver chrome make for an enchanting nail style, courtesy of @moni_wien92.

OPI Infinite Shine Lacquer in I Mica Be Dreaming £7.90 + VAT/RRP £15.95 www.trade.opiuk.com

Magpie Beauty brand partner, Rachel Mansfield, breaks down six steps to paint a bunny on nails.

Step 1 Mix Magpie Gel Paints in Yellow, Brown and White to create a nude hue. Use this to paint a stretched oval shape for the bunny’s face and two ovals for its feet. Cure.

Step 2 Paint the bunny’s body in a triangle shape using the custom hue, and cure. Use the shade to paint the bunny’s ears, adding a slight curve at the top. Cure.

Step 3 Mix Magpie Gel Paint in White and Neon Pink to create a light pink shade. Using the colour and a dotting tool, add three little dots and one big dot to the bunny’s feet, a heart to its chest, a flat oval shape to create the nose, and the inner parts of its ears. Cure.

Step 4 Use Magpie Gel Paint in Black to outline the shape and details of the bunny, and cure.

Step 5 Using the bigger end of your dotting tool and the Black shade, create one eye and using the smaller end, create the other eye. Paint the bunny’s mouth and eyebrows using the hue. Cure.

Step 6 Apply Magpie Velvet Top Matte Top Coat and cure.

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The GelBottle Inc Studio GelTM in Mirror Chrome £13 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

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ditnailsbys

NailKind Nail Polish in Miami Peach £8.95 inc VAT www.nailkind.com

Home of Nail Art ambassador, @naileditnailsbysteph, creates an Easter scene across nails, adding chrome details to a bunny, chick and eggs.

Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Bekki Woolnough, uses a rainbow of glittering hues as a backdrop to bunny nail art.

Magpie Beauty products are available via www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Dazzling digits CND VinyluxTM in Mint & Meditation £5.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Yoshi UV Hybrid Gel in Flare Jean £POA www.nailslaundry.co.uk

INK London iLac Gel Polish in i-208 (Esther) £10 + VAT www.inknails.com

Halo Gel Polish Sparkle Top Coat £5.95 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

Halo VIP, Shelley Lewis, brings the Easter spirit to nails through glittering ombré colour. “If you’re not satisfied with the finish of an ombré nail design, adding a sparkly top coat will help the colours appear more blended,” she shares.

Light Elegance Glitter Gel in Yummy Gummy £21 inc VAT www.lightelegance.com Tonal glitter bunny ears feature in this pretty in pink design by INK London ambassador, Holly Morris-Last. The design took 90 minutes to create, and the pro charged her client £45.

28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Entity Color Couture Soak Off Gel Polish in Dancing Jewels £10.95 + VAT www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk

SEASONALNAILINSPO

Elaborate art

HD Pro Nails brand ambassador, Gemma Dawson, shares how she brought this 3D bunny character to life on nails.

Level 3

NSI Tech Gel in Reminisce £10.50 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk Artistic Colour Gloss in Bride £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

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Salon System Gellux Gel Polish in Are You Shore £11.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Gelish Soak-off Gel Polish in Leaf It All Behind £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.salon-services.com

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STEP-BY-STEP: An ear-resistible style

Salon System nail expert, Julie-Anne Larivière, uses Gellux gel polishes to paint a basket brimming with Easter eggs on each nail.

Reanne Nash of Nash Nails & Brows paints Thumper across nails, using Vu Nail Systems Gel-ato Gel Polish colours.

The design took 90 minutes to complete, and the pro added £10 to her standard gel polish treatment price for the nail art.

Vu Gel-ato Gel Polishes £10 inc VAT each www.vunailsystems.com

Textured tips

Light Elegance ButterCream in Lollipop £17 inc VAT www.lightelegance.com

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A 3D hatching chick and glossy egg with bunny ears featured in this design by Indigo educator, Dominika Satro.

Glitterbels Coloured Acrylic in Honey £8.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Award-winning nail artist, Scarlett Senter, uses a variety of finishes in this bunny-themed design. The style took 25 minutes to create, and she would charge a client £60 for it.

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@natmugnailartist creates a bunny and lamb on nail tips using the Crystal Parade Crystal Mix in Springtime Sparkle, available as a pack of 150 for £6.50 + VAT/RRP £7.80 via www.crystalparade.co.uk

INK London Nail Art Liner Brush (4pk) £10 + VAT www.inknails.com

Step 1 Apply your chosen base colour and cure. Using a spatula, apply a medium-sized ball of HD Pro Plastilin 3D Gel in Nude to the bottom half of the nail. Use the HD Pro 3D Art Brush and Prep It! Prep Solution to flatten out the gel, creating a slightly wonky pancake shape.

Cure. In the top half of the nail, apply two smaller beads of the gel with the spatula, flattening them into ear shapes using the brush. Use the belly of the brush to apply pressure to the centre of the ear shapes to create dimension. Cure.

Step 2 With the spatula, apply two small beads of the Nude Plastilin Gel at the bottom of the pancake shape, pressing them into round cheek shapes using the brush. Push a chosen number of fine illusion cord pieces into them to create whiskers, then cure.

Step 3 Take a small bead of the Nude Plastilin Gel with the spatula and apply above the centre of the cheeks. Work the gel into a nose shape using the brush. Add two small beads of HD Pro Plastilin 3D Gel in Black to create the eyes and cure. Use a dotting tool to pick up smaller amounts of gel for the eyes.

Step 4 Using the spatula, apply a bead of the Nude Plastilin Gel for the bunny’s body. Flatten with your brush and use a silicone tool to press tiny fur lines into the shape. Cure.

Step 5 With the spatula, add a small bead of HD Pro Plastilin 3D Gel in a colour of your choice to the neck of the bunny, and push into a bow tie shape using your brush. I chose to match the base by using the Teal shade. I also added HD Pro Plastilin 3D Gel in Pink inside the bunny’s ears for a cute touch. Cure.

Step 6 Paint your bunny. I used HD Pro Colour It! Gel Colour in Crystal Orange.

Apply a coat of HD Pro Matt It! No Wipe Matte Top Coat and cure. I added detail using HD Pro’s Art Gels in Casper (white) and Dusky Green, applying them using the brand’s Precision Art Brush.

Each nail tells a different story in this detailed 3D style by @karenannenailart, featuring Easter emblems and a loveable bunny gonk.

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HD Pro Nails products are available via www.hazeldixonnails.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

NEW NEW BUILDER BUILDER GEL GEL SHADES SHADES

INDUSTRYINSIDER

Cosmetic THE

Climate The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) evaluates cosmetic safety information in the public sphere

BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD

Head of scientific services at The CTPA

MAKING SENSE OF THE SCIENCE: WHY IS THERE SO MUCH COMPETING INFORMATION ABOUT COSMETIC SAFETY?

C

highly effective and safe, as every ingredient must be. For example, why retinol is great for boosting the removal of dead skin cells and reducing fine lines, how aluminiumbased deodorants stop sweat and the associated effects that no-one wants, or why hyaluronic acid is brilliant at locking in moisture for smooth, hydrated skin.

osmetics play a fundamental role in the lives of the vast majority of people. It is difficult to think of any other products that serve so many different purposes, and to which we have such a strong personal and emotional connection. Cosmetics help us maintain a basic level of hygiene, express our identity, boost our confidence and evoke memories.

They also provide talented professionals with a creative job and an essential livelihood.

It is no surprise then that there is so much information communicated about cosmetics, whether by journalists, bloggers, friends, brands or health professionals. We share our space so intimately with these products and so can become passionate about seeking the next big trend, sharing tips with others, finding out which product gives the best result for us, and understanding how these cosmetics work.

Information overload

However, negative and misleading messages are also prevalent. This unfortunately includes information from some brands, used to gain a marketing advantage by implying that their products are safer than others on the market.

Clean beauty is a good A great example is the ‘free from’ example of a marketing tool claim, which is typically misleading because that is not backed up by any by claiming that a product is free from substance. Words associated with substances such as parabens, sulfates or ‘clean beauty’ products include artificial ingredients, it implies that those ingredients are harmful or undesirable. ‘non-toxic’ and ‘safe’, which are legal Parabens are safe and effective requirements of all cosmetics anyway. preservatives that protect products from ‘Sustainable’ and ‘eco-friendly’ are harmful bacteria and have a completely further examples – but what do these undeserved reputation. Sulfates are present terms actually mean? Environmental in most shampoos as effective cleansing claims should always be specific agents and, when used at the concentrations and clearly explain the product’s needed in a shampoo, have cleansing rather environmental credentials. than drying properties for the hair. There is no

One of the challenges created by the sheer quantity of information surrounding cosmetics is knowing which information is reliable, especially when the information relates to safety. There are many brands and influencers sharing positive messages about ingredients and technologies that are 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

safety difference between an artificial and natural version of an ingredient – in fact, there is no difference whatsoever, as they are chemically identical!

INDUSTRYINSIDER

As can be seen from examples such as ‘no parabens’, sadly if a message is repeated often enough, however untrue, people will start to believe it. As commented by Sam Farmer, current president of the Society for Cosmetic Scientists, in a blog for CTPA: “It’s also really hard to break that cycle, because that message is often more interesting than the fact of the matter.”

Another example of improving transparency is the EcoBeautyScore Consortium. or in some cases, on the brand’s website.

Beauty companies who have All cosmetic ingredient names in the UK and signed up to the project will all EU follow a standard format called INCI use the same method to score the (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic environmental impact of their Ingredients). Although the primary purpose of this system is to ensure that people with products, so that consumers can a diagnosed allergy have clarity on which use this information to decide substance they need to avoid, in this case it which cosmetics to buy. helps to simplify the process of searching for Ecobeautyscore.com

When investigating whether information you are reading is trustworthy, you might want to consider whether any references or sources are given. Also think about the credentials of the person behind the information, and whether they have anything to gain (for example, financially) for providing you with a certain opinion.

information, because it means that the same word will always be used to describe a specific substance.

COSMILE also answers important and topical questions about cosmetic and personal care products. For example, it explains why cosmetic ingredients do not disrupt the endocrine system, the animal testing ban, and why some people can unfortunately experience an allergic reaction to cosmetic ingredients.

The organisation behind COSMILE is Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care association, supported by a number of cosmetic and personal care associations across Europe, including CTPA. COSMILE is currently available in 14 languages, with more to follow.

Something to smile about – cosmetic ingredient information from COSMILE If you have seen a chemical name on a product’s ingredient list, or heard about an ingredient and want to know what it is and why it’s in your product, COSMILE Europe can help. Cosmileeurope.eu holds facts about almost 30,000 cosmetic ingredients; for example, what an ingredient does, whether it is natural or man-made, which product categories it can be found in, why people are talking about it and the science behind its safety.

To find this information, it is possible to search the COSMILE website using the name shown on the ingredient list on the product label,

A transparent future COSMILE is a great example of transparency in the beauty industry.

Although ingredients have been shown on a list on product labels for decades, COSMILE has taken a step forward by explaining what these ingredients do and why they are necessary.

Transparency and more information-sharing are demands that are here to stay, and it is important that brands are able to connect with us as their consumers and demonstrate that they share our values. www.ctpa.org.uk

@TheCTPA

@thectpa

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

DIARYDATES

CALENDAR

GIRL

CALLIE ILEY helps you put a spring in your clients’ steps this month by marking notable dates with treats for hands & feet

APRIL

Nailscopes Those born in April fall under the Aries or Taurus star signs, and are encouraged to take time out to prioritise self-care this month. April also serves up plenty of inspiration to ignite creativity.

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April Fools’ Day

Prepare for pranks and jokes on April Fools’ Day with quirky nail styles. Share out-of-theordinary designs on social media to engage clients and attract attention, and choose unusual embellishments for a playful finish.

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Easter Sunday

A rabbit and spring florals feature on this nail design by Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Jessica Prout (@theprouts), using Gelish.

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Consider brewing hot water with DIRTEA Tremella Mushroom Powder (RRP £49.99) for clients to enjoy during their treatments. The polysaccharides in the formula can help improve skin tone and strengthen hair and nails.

Available via www.dirteaworld.com

World Art Day

Celebrate art and creativity on World Art Day, by pulling out nail art brushes from your kit and letting your imagination run wild!

Lecenté Create Glitter Gel Polish in Speckled Egg £11.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

Honour the mushroom today with fungi-themed nail styles to suit the occasion.

34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Glitterbels Gel Art Brush Set (5pk) £26.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Day of the Mushroom

International Children’s Book Day

International Children’s Book Day celebrates children’s literature and promotes the importance of encouraging children to read.

Consider sharing book-inspired designs to mark the occasion.

@allurehair_nails takes inspiration from children’s picture book, The Gruffalo.

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From speckled egg styles and Creme Egg wrappers to bunnies and chicks, Easter offers a wealth of artistic nail opportunities.

In search of Easter nail inspo and products?

Turn to page 26.

Mushroom fairy houses feature in this style by by @byjasminsuto.

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Can you vitamin-C what @marichichi_nails has added to these enhancements? Orange peel makes for a bold look!

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@nailzbyvee completes this mix and match manicure with the Aries constellation.

The St. George’s Cross with a fun dotty twist, by @ellyaalishwright.

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Saint George’s Day

Observed annually for hundreds of years, Saint George’s Day serves up the chance to offer red and white nail designs, inspired by Saint George’s Cross.

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NSI Polish Pro in Blanca £10 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

CND Vinylux™ in Love Letter £5.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

MAKING MOVES WITH

o V o n i M Immerse in competition tips & nail tales from master nail stylist, MINO VO…

E ABOUT MINO VO Mino Vo is ‘The Avant-Garde Nail Artist’, a multi award-winning nail aficionado with over 60 competition titles under his belt. An international educator, he travels the world teaching nail services and extreme shapes, and has developed a variety of nail tools to support his work and that of fellow nail pros. Mino runs a salon and academy in north London.

My newest nail shape, Mexico, was inspired by a trip to Mexico last year. The shape is based on the sun, and I created it after visiting the sun pyramid in Mexico City.

How to prepare for a nail competition

ntering competitions requires a lot of planning and preparation. Training is key to competition success, however alongside this, you need to garner knowledge and experience. Consider training with past competition champions. Spend time looking at the websites and social media accounts of past winners, explore their styles and read reviews from their students before you choose who to train with. Each educator can teach different skills, so you will never stop learning.

It is a good idea to practice under various conditions, such as diverse temperatures and time constraints. Pack different products in your kit in case you need to adjust your technique to suit, such as liquids and powders that set at different speeds for L&P competitions. In locations such as London or Canada, the temperature will be cold, so you should practice at lower temperatures. However, sometimes there may be a surprise. When I competed at Nailympia Orlando, I expected the temperature to be warm, but there was powerful air conditioning in the competition arena. Be prepared for any eventuality.

Models

Your model will also play a huge role in your success. Choose a model with beautiful hands, long nail beds and a positive attitude.

It’s very hard to find a model that you have a good connection with, who also has beautiful nails. My model is based in Germany!

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If possible, line up more than one model for each competition, especially if you are entering multiple categories. This way, you won’t be rushing to re-prep your model’s nails between competitions. Your model should be someone you know – not someone you meet for the first time on the competition floor. I have had friends that travelled from London to Mexico to compete, and their models from Mexico failed to attend.

Kit

Invest in good quality products when you compete, and be familiar with their use. Previous competitors will likely share their product knowledge if you reach out to them. When competing in multiple categories in one competition, I create a kit for each category to save time.

It is a good idea to carry an extra kit, because accidents happen all the time. When I travelled to Nailympia Canada, my glue gel was destroyed in my luggage, so now I always pack extra products for competitions.

When competing, I tend to feel most nervous during the first category of the event. At Nailympia London, I decided to step away from the first category (Gel Manicure) but watched and viewed the other competitors. During this time, my nerves disappeared and my temperament calmed before the next category.

I try to compete in as many competitions as possible throughout the year, to keep me focused and help me improve on all areas of my work.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Out & about

I hosted Monika Urantowka’s art class in London; two days of portrait painting and one of animal painting. It was so much fun to immerse in Monika’s techniques, and the amazing Kirsty Meakin joined the class.

I also tended to the nails of singer, Renée Downer, from London-based girl group, FLO, for the Brit Awards.

The group won the 2023 Brit Award for Rising Star.

Hosting a three-day class with Monika Urantowka.

Mino with singer, Renée Downer.

A steampunk angel wing nail by Mariana Costirco, using a variety of mediums.

Team talk

Mariana Costirco

Mariana Costirco attended my first Avant-Garde course in London. I recognised her talent and ability to quickly absorb knowledge from the moment I met her. When I was looking for staff members last summer for the salon, Mariana applied and we have been working together ever since.

Coming up...

I will be hosting a class with my mentor, and reigning Nailympia Global Champion, Olena Özman. She will be teaching my team to perfect pink & white nails, and offering training in the gothic almond nail style. After her class, I will begin preparation for my world tour, which starts in the USA with stops in Chicago, LA and Houston.

Nails by Mino following a class with Olena Özman.

Her nail skill and creativity has reached new levels in the last year. She competed in my team at Nailympia London 2022 and won seven medals. We are training together for this year’s competitions, and Mariana is one of the most creative students in the team. She always pushes herself to make something new and exciting, and loves working with both L&P and gel systems.

My student, Alex Stefani, created this nail design during my AvantGarde seminar in Greece.

She was inspired by singer, Ozzy Osbourne. I love this nail because it is so precisely created.

“Your model will play a huge role in your success. Choose a model with beautiful hands, long nail beds and a positive attitude.

It’s very hard to find a model that you have a good connection with, who also has beautiful nails.”

www.minovolondon.uk /miakonomo /minovolondon @minovolondon @minovolondon

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NAILINSPO

The French Instagram.com/aniakesiaknails

evolution Perfect the classic French & explore ways to mix it up with tutorials & inspo for each nail system CALLIE ILEY REPORTS

NSI advocate, Hayley Shepley of @hayleyajshepley_mcr, shows the classic French some love, adding a tiny heart to the design. It’s an ideal wedding day look!

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With a natural-coloured base allowing for subtle regrowth and endless colour and design possibilities, French tips are an ever-popular choice with clients. This versatile nail style allows for a clean and chic enhancement of the natural nail, and can be altered to suit shape, colour and design preferences.

Nail artist & Glasgow-based salon owner, @aniakesiaknails, uses pastel tones on tips to add a springtime twist to almond-shaped enhancements.

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Proving its popularity, with #frenchnails boasting 1.2 billion views on TikTok and 5.6 million posts on Instagram, this truly timeless nail style shows no signs of fading: instead, it is evolving with trends and seasons.

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Derby pro, @_tonikbeauty_, adds foil to this bold French style, using products from CJP Nail Systems.

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Nailchemy #2 Mini 3D Acrylic Professional Nail Art Brush £18.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

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Sculpt long-lasting, shapely nail styles using the L&P system, which affords opportunities for coloured tips and encapsulation of nail art products, to mix up the traditional French.

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With spring/summer styles in full swing, searches for micro-French nails have soared by 235% on Pinterest in recent months. Add pastel hues to micro-French manis for spring designs, or reach for bolder, summery shades as warmer months approach.

NSI Attraction Acrylic Powder in Rose Blush £11.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk In

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Blackburn-based nail artist, @nails_by_cjh, shares a softer take on the French with this baby boomer design.

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Halo Create Acrylic Powder in Oslo £3.09 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

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Glitterbels Glittered Acrylic in Hot Crush £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

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Pure Nails educator, Nicole Dowling of Love My Beauty, shares a spring-friendly lilac and glitter French design. Turn to page 58 for a step-by-step!

NSI advocate, Jemma Harnett of @jemz_nailz_, mixes up the classic French smile line with a shapely twist, using NSI Attraction Acrylic Powder in Rose Blush to perfect the base.

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The classic French gets a twist courtesy of Glitterbels co-founder, Annabel Maginnis, who uses Glitterbels glitter and shimmer acrylic powder shades, including Hot Crush, Pink Crush and Summer Crush.

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LACQUER

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CND Vinylux™ in Live, Love, Lavender £5.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.sweetsquared.com

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A popular choice for pedicures, perfect your French-style lacquer nails with detailer brushes and a steady hand.

Switch up shades at the tip for special occasion nails.

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Chicago nail stylist, @lacquerdiary3.14, adds sparkle to this French style using nail lacquer.

Nail artist & CND™ education ambassador, Tamara Di Lullo (@tamaradilullo), swaps traditional pink and white French shades for white and gold, and adds houndstooth styling for a striking finish.

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Lacquer in Enchanté £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com Morgan Taylor Do Look Buff Nail Lacquer £5.50 + VAT/RRP £10.95 www.louellabelle.co.uk

Peacci‘ Nail Lacquer in Daisy £7.20 + VAT/RRP £10 www.thegelbottle.com

Glitterbels Rainbow Fine Detailer Brushes (Set of 3) £15 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Artistic Colour Revolution in Mystic Mint £5.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk oli

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Step 1: Apply your chosen base colour.

Step 2: Place three dots in a triangle shape as indicated, to serve as a guide.

Step 3: Use a striper brush to paint two lines to join up the dots.

Step 4: Paint a horizontal line across the nail, creating an upside-down letter A. Step 5: Draw the smile line and curve the ‘corners’ of the letter A to round off the shape.

Step 6: Fill in and refine the smile line until you’re happy with the overall look.

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OPI Nail Lacquer in Big Bow Energy £6.50 + VAT/RRP £14.30 www.trade.opiuk.com

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NSI Secrets HD Detailer Brush £13.35 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

Magpie Beauty brand partner, Kelly Scothorn of @asprettyas_nailsbykelly, shows how to perfect a French tip.

These pretty in pink French nails by Aleksandra of @xglitzandpolishx are perfect for parties and festivals. The nail stylist used OPI Nail Lacquer shades, Big Bow Energy and Confetti Ready.

Jessica Custom Colour in Seraphine £5.50 + VAT/RRP £11 www.gerrardinternational.com

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ACRYGEL

Work at your own pace and create glossy, long-lasting nail finishes with acrygel products, before decorating the enhancements with chosen shades and designs.

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Kelly Scothorn created this design using Magpie Beauty’s Perfect Poly Acrygel, offsetting the soft pastel tips with bold black dots.

Q By Better Nails educator, Monika Walaszczyk of @q_by_monika.walaszczyk, serves up this sleek classic French, using Q Better Nails Dual Force Acrygel in the shades Charming and Stunning White.

Q Better Nails Dual Force Acrygel in Stunning White £28 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk

“Some of my clients like to wear an alternative French, because they can express their creativity at the nail tip, while maintaining the benefits of a natural-looking base.”

Magpie Beauty Perfect Poly Acrygel in Sweet Peach £21.50 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Inst

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Dominika Satro of @dominikasatro_indigoeducator used the Indigo Nails Gelastic system to craft these enhancements with colourful tips.

Panama-based manicurist, @elynailstudiopty, combines the milky nails trend with a classic French look.

“Changing the placement of your smile line can elongate or shorten the look of French nails. For instance, if your client has short nail beds, you can use an opaque colour with a thinner French tip to make the nails appear longer.”

Claire Howard, Lecenté educator & owner of Claire Howard Nail Artist & Educator, Norwich Montreal-based Polygel tech, @glitzbybritz, exchanges the classic white French tip for a sophisticated black, finishing the design with a small crystal.

Julia Nessa Dual AcrylicGel in Milky £15.50 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk

“Many of my clients love what we call a ‘mixed-up French tip’. They like that a natural base means that regrowth is less visible, and enjoy choosing a design for the tip of the nails so they look fresher for longer.”

Sophie Donaldson, Lecenté creator & owner of Sophie’s Cosy Corner, Kent

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This bold design by Nailchemy brand ambassador & educator, Helen Clayton of @helen.clayton_nail.artist, was created with Nailchemy Aura Acrylic-Gel. She topped off the look with bright, hand-painted artistry.

Anna Goronska of @q_by_annagoronska adds glitter for a twist on the classic French.

“Sheer colours are popular for French-style nails, as they create a more natural look compared to solid colours.”

Giorgia Cappella, training & education manager at The GelBottle Inc

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Nailchemy Aura Acrylic-Gel in Bright White £14.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

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Build and shape a hardwearing yet flexible French style with a glossy finish using gel, and top off your designs with versatile gel paints.

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The GelBottle Inc Studio Gel in Mirror Chrome £13 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Lena Kurach of @qbetternails.pl uses Q Better Nails’ Art UniQ Gel in White to finish this peachy French.

Annabel Maginnis (@nails_by_annabel_m) used a range of pink and red hues from the Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel range to create this love-ly look, featuring hearts near the smile line.

@novabeautybyabbie adds a trendy chrome touch to this French design, using The GelBottle Inc’s Studio Gel in Mirror Chrome.

Q Better Nails Art UniQ in White £10.50 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk Magpie Beauty Nail Art Brush Striper £10.95 www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Kelly Scothorn uses Magpie Beauty Gel Paints, including Red, Neon Pink and Neon Purple, to achieve this multi-coloured alternative French style.

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in It’s A Fling £9.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

“Perfecting the shape for different nail lengths takes practice, but is also dependent on the client’s preference. I always recommend starting off thin and building upon your shape, while regularly checking that your client is happy with the length.”

Magpie Beauty Gel Paint in Neon Purple £6.95 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

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NSI Tech Gel in Deeply Devoted £10.50 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

@kaitlynjaystudio uses Home Of Nail Art’s Detail Paint in White to enhance this chic, classic style.

Lecenté ambassador, @nailsbynicolaxx, adds a fun, abstract twist to the tip of this nail style.

Home Of Nail Art Detail Paint in White £12.50 inc VAT www.homeofnailart.com

Light Elegance ButterCreams in Bon Bon and Candy Jar £16 inc VAT each www.lightelegance.com

This ice cream nail tip is perfect for summer, and features hues traditionally associated with the French, but with a seasonal nail art twist. Hope Jung (@hopejungnails) created the style using Light Elegance Buttercreams in Bon Bon, Totally Taffy, Minty Fresh and Candy Jar.

Jemma Harnett showcases a striking negative space French design, created using NSI Tech Gel in Deeply Devoted.

“Choosing the right cover shade for your client’s skin tone is not always easy. Most techs will have a go-to French base, however, this won’t work for all clients. For darker skin tones, you want to avoid pale, grey tones and instead, opt for warmer caramel nudes. Medium and olive skin tones best suit warm beige shades and should avoid overly pink bases, whereas lighter tones are best complemented by pale or pink bases.”

Giorgia Cappella

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THE DIP SYSTEM

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Entity Dip Or Buff in French White and Midriffs & Mini Skirts £14.95 + VAT each www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk

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Offering a speedy way to create an overlay, dip containers support uniform smile lines across all fingertips.

Sara Kostanjevec of @nailonails embellishes this French and ombré nail style with eye-catching jewels and bright blue hues.

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PRODUCT PICK!

Create a French smile line quickly and easily by using a French Dip container with your client’s chosen dip power shade.

Texas-based salon, Urban Nail Bar, adds a classy gold twist to these French tips, created using the dip powder method.

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Laura Gremaud (@cocktails_n_nails) shares a sparkling French, created using Artistic Perfect Dip in Natural Pink and Dazzling Daydream.

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Gelish Dip System French Dip Container £9.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

Artistic Perfect Dip Dish £9.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Boston-based nail technician, @nailsbyarely, maintains a classic look with this pink & white French style.

“Choosing a suitable base shade based on skin tone is important, as this is what makes up the majority of a French nail. To ensure my clients have the right shade for their skin tone, I’ve put my base colours on clear swatch sticks, so they can easily choose which colour is best.”

Artistic Perfect Dip Powders £7.95 + VAT each www.louellabelle.co.uk

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OPI Powder Perfection Colour Powder in Bubble Bath £22.40 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

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Florida-based tech, @la_patry_nails, serves up this soft French look, created using OPI Powder Perfection Colour Powder in Don’t Bossa Nova Me Around.

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OPI Powder Perfection Colour Powder in Don’t Bossa Nova Me Around £22.40 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Gelish Dip N Brush in Pretty Simple £19.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com / www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk / www.salon-services.com

This punchy pink French style by @christinas_place’s is a perfect holiday mani.

NAILINSPO

GEL POLISH

Pull out your spring/summer gel polish shades and get creative! Serve up colourful tips or patterned additions to your French-style nails for fun, seasonal looks that last up to three weeks.

Pastel micro-French nails by Manchesterbased luxury manicurist, @lucyatluxe, using products from Magpie Beauty.

Owner of Pinky’s Nails and Beauty (@pinkysnailsandbeauty), Jenny Bennett, serves up this classic French using NSI Polish Pro shades, Pink Cashmere and Blanca.

NSI Polish Pro Gel Polish in Pink Cashmere £10 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk Ins

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Annabel Maginnis serves up this unique take on French nails, using a range of gel polishes to achieve the patterned look.

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Glitterbels Hema-Free Gel Polish in Irresistible £7.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

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This standout style by @meganflanneryyy uses a bold hue for the French base, creating a cool, contrasting look.

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CND Shellac™ in Mint & Meditation £15.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

“If your client seeks an on-trend micro-French, use an opaque base to cover the natural smile line, enabling you to place the micro-French without any sign of the natural free edge.”

Halo Gel Polish in Bluebell £5.95 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

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“One of my favourite bases for a French design is Lecenté Create Gel Polish in Juliet. It has a tiny bit of sparkle, and my clients adore it,” says Sophie Donaldson.

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A soft, ombré French by en Vogue educator, Casey-Leigh Boucher of @abrushofperfectioncaseyleigh, created using lac It! shades in Angel Wings and Cloud 9.

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manager at Nailspa, completes this bold red French with glitter, using OPI GelColor shades Big Apple Red and Go Big or Go Chrome.

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Gel Polish in Angel Wings £POA www.envoguenails.eu

Lecenté Create Glitter Gel Polish in Juliet £11.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk Ins

OPI GelColor in Big Apple Red £19.90 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com Lucy Price, OPI nail tech & salon

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Malva £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com www.gelishmorgantayloruk.com www.salon-services.com

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Charlotte Knight of @nailchark uses Bio Sculpture Gel Polishes in Whitney and Anthea to add sparkle to the classic French.

Artistic Colour Gloss in Watch Me £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Yoshi Gel Polish in Mom Jeans £5.95 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk

“I’ve seen a huge increase in alternative French designs that involve different nail art techniques to add depth. Consider including hearts for Valentine’s Day, butterflies in the summer and snowflakes in the winter to spice up a French nail style.”

Giorgia Cappella

Salon System Gellux Gel Polish in Shellarious £11.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Entity Color Couture Gel Polish in Sway My Way £10.95 + VAT www.thebeautybossacademy.co.uk

TOP TIP

Lecenté Nail Art Detailer Brush (D3) £12.49 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

“My top tip for creating a French manicure is to find a brush that will allow for precision. I favour a striping brush for French manicures on longer nails. For shorter nails with a less angled French, I use the Lecenté D3 Detailer Brush.”

Claire Howard SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

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WHAT’S INSIDE MATTERS

Join the UK Family!

HEALTHMATTERS

ALLERGY

Aware

Scratch marks Allergy Awareness Week (24-30 April) with expert comment on allergies & how to handle & prevent reactions in the nail space REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

Allergy Awareness Week can serve as a reminder to refresh your knowledge of allergy risks and issues in the nail sector.

Here, we’ve sourced expert comment to help you recognise an allergic reaction, handle a situation with care if an allergy presents itself, and prevent adverse reactions in your working environment.

What is an allergy?

An allergy is the immune system’s response to a substance, and can affect each person differently. Reactions can be immediate or delayed, sometimes not showing until 24 to 72 hours after contact with the allergen. “All chemicals are potentially harmful, but the dividing line between a safe and harmful chemical is often the quantity of it. This dividing line varies from person to person,” explains Marian Newman in The Complete Nail Technician: Fourth Edition.

“One individual may become sensitive to a particular ingredient in a product after two uses; another may take years before a reaction occurs, if one occurs at all.”

Marian Newman

“Allergies can develop at any stage of life, including if someone has been exposed to that same substance many times before,” reiterates Caroline Rainsford, head of scientific services at the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA). “Genetics play a part; for example, allergies often run in families, but each family member will not Caroline Rainsford necessarily be allergic to the same substance.

“The immune system’s response to an allergen can be classified into four different types of reaction, however type one is thought to be the most common,” Caroline continues.

“This reaction will occur quickly after exposure to the allergen; for example, as a rash, itching, runny nose, or difficulty breathing in the case of very severe allergic reactions.”

Other signs of a reaction include redness, swelling, bumpy or blistered skin, dry and flaky skin, tight and shiny skin, and onycholysis (nails lifting from the nail bed).

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Allergic vs. irritant reactions Not all reactions to cosmetic products are allergic ones. In fact, irritant reactions are the most common form of reaction, but unlike allergies, irritations are temporary and can be a one-off occurrence. Allergic reactions are a permanent condition, with symptoms that can vary in severity over time.

Caroline gives the example of an irritant reaction for a nail pro as being exposed to repeated or large amounts of weaker irritants, such as detergents, soaps, or even water from regular hand washing. Once the irritant has been removed from contact with the skin, the reaction, which often presents itself as redness, itching and discomfort, is likely to resolve rapidly, she explains.

Marian notes that the same is true when removing an allergen from contact with the skin, however the permanent nature of allergic reactions is what makes them most different to irritant reactions. “There may be other symptoms related to an allergy, such as breathing problems, headaches, tiredness and nausea,” she adds. “Also, an irritation on the skin is always localised. Allergies, on the other hand, may be localised to the area where the allergen came into contact, but not necessarily.”

“Consultations gather vital information about a client before their nail service and play an important role in preventing allergic reactions, as they allow you to learn if the client has experienced any reactions in the past that may affect the treatment.”

HEALTHMATTERS

How to handle a reaction Techs “In the case of a technician developing an unusual symptom: the most common being an itchy rash on the hands or fingers, they must stop using their products or start wearing gloves,” comments Marian. Quick action is key to prevent symptoms continuing, the condition worsening and heightened risk of infection. If the reaction doesn’t dissapear within a few days or gets worse, medical advice should be sought.

Clients “In the case of a client developing signs of an allergy, all products must be removed immediately. Once removed, the condition may disappear, and if the client is willing, a different system could be tried, which may be successful,” states Marian.

Again, a quick response is vital, even if the reaction occurs when you are not present, and recommend the client seeks medical advice if the condition doesn’t improve. Remember, if you are not medically qualified, you should not diagnose or treat a client if they require medical attention.

Prevention pointers Consultation Consultations gather vital information about a client before their nail service and play an important role in preventing allergic reactions, as they allow you to learn if the client has experienced any reactions in the past that may affect the treatment. Ensure this is something you ask about within your consultation, and use this as an opportunity to make the client aware of the risks of allergies.

“If you or your client has a diagnosed allergy, it is important to check the ingredients of the products you use, to make sure they don’t contain the allergen,” says Caroline.

“All cosmetic products sold in the UK and EU must have full ingredient labelling on their packaging, using an internationally standardised naming system, which means that the same name will be used for each ingredient across the UK and EU.”

During the appointment “Nail products are designed for the nail, therefore keep them off the skin,” stresses Marian.

To do this, she notes that you should: • Not touch the skin with your brush. “If you find this difficult when applying a monomer and polymer overlay, use a smaller brush,” she suggests.

• Not wipe your brush on the towel your hand is resting on.

• Work from the smallest nail to the largest when removing the sticky inhibition layer, wiping the nail away from the cuticle area towards the free edge.

• Ensure the inhibition layer is fully removed, as any that remains will fall into your hand as you shape the overlay.

Caroline adds that wearing appropriate gloves is key to preventing unreacted product touching the skin, as is taking extra care when removing them.

“Adverse skin reactions are easy to avoid: one way is by ensuring nail coatings are properly cured,” comments nail scientist, Doug Schoon. “When nail coatings are improperly cured, the risk of allergic sensitivity for both the nail professional and client increases. Daily contact with filings/dusts from undercured nail coatings can lead to skin irritation or allergic reactions.

“Use the proper procedures and/or equipment needed to prevent undercuring,” he continues. This involves following the manufacturer’s instructions on which lamp to use with your chosen nail system and maintaining this lamp, changing the bulb for a high-quality replacement at specified times.

Doug Schoon

For more information on preventing allergies in the nail space, read the CTPA’s Guideline on Artificially Enhanced Nails and Minimising the Risk of Allergy, by scanning here

DID YOU KNOW?

“Just because a product hardens, it doesn’t mean it is properly cured,” shares Doug Schoon.

“Artificial nail coatings will harden when they are only 50% cured.

This means a nail coating might be only halfway cured and the nail technician may mistakenly believe it is fully and properly cured.”

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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

class

Go behind-the-scenes at a three-day Artistic Nail Design educator event & explore the learnings of the team who’ll be supporting students across the UK…

BY SUZANNE CLAYTON Interim head of education & brand development manager at Louella Belle

Covid-19 had prevented in-person Artistic Nail Design education for three years, but November 2022 saw it return with such great success, that another event followed last month for new brand educators at the ExCel exhibition centre, London.

Suzanne & Sandy Borges

To gain a role on the education team at Louella Belle (UK distributor of Artistic Nail Design), the educators must immerse in initial training across all systems. Sandy Borges, global head of education for the brand, jetted over from the US to lead the event for six Louella Belle educators. In my role as Louella Belle’s interim head of education, I assisted Sandy, and we were excited to ignite further passion for the brand and fine-tune techniques.

THE TEAM

The educators participating in the event were: Claire Harris Clare Hooson Michelle Brookes Jade Gellen Rachel Harrison Laura Smith

50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

THEORY FOCUS

The process for educators is intense, and commenced with three days of online theory training. This covered the brand story, as well as chemistry, colour theory and a demonstration of teaching styles, which offered a great way for new brand educators to gain an understanding of how to structure a class and support students.

Sandy served up slideshows for the core learning areas, and I added any points specific to the UK market. I also answered questions related to allergies and product ingredients. The final day of theory training enhanced product knowledge and offered product demos with the addition of nail art ideas.

A week after the online theory training, educators sat an online exam, which has 100 questions to answer in 90 minutes based on the chemistry and product knowledge learned. A 75% minimum pass rate is needed, and the score each educator achieves in the exam determines their Artistic educator level. In my training last year, I received a 90% pass, which led me to gain principle Artistic educator status; the third highest of six levels.

A few weeks passed before we headed to ExCel to meet Sandy and immerse in three days of practical training and assessments.

PRACTICAL TRAINING DAY TWO

DAY ONE

The educators arrived with slightly nervous dispositions, as assessments began on each system in the Artistic Nail Design portfolio. The morning saw educators tasked with working on each other to a specific brief for each nail, to a time limit. The nails were then scored individually.

The afternoon welcomed demos with Artistic’s upcoming Brush-On Builder Gel and L&P system, with time to practice application and receive feedback.

We closed the day with a team dinner in Canary Wharf, which allowed the educators to get to know one another better.

The sun shone over London for the first day of training and as the educators arrived, they were welcomed with training kits filled with Artistic Nail Design products, as well as an LED Cure Box, notepad and training manual. Some upcoming products also featured, much to their excitement.

The day started with a recap on thorough nail prep and Artistic Colour Gloss application, as well as application of one of my favourite systems – Artistic Gel-On Extensions. The delegates were also the first in the UK to try out Artistic’s Rubber Base Gel and gel paints, and were given feedback by Sandy ahead of an assessment.

The day finished with a social media challenge, and the group was divided into teams to create an Instagram Reel of the first day of training.

DAY THREE

The final day of training kicked off with more demos: this time with Artistic’s Putty system, and then Perfect Dip, before assessments took place in the afternoon. We ended the day watching the Reels that were created on day one and offering social media feedback and tips. An existing Louella Belle educator, Sharon Baker, stopped by to meet the team and catch up with Sandy.

NEXT STEPS The delegates formed great bonds throughout the training event, and it was great to support Sandy and watch the educators grow in skill. I feel very fortunate to work with a team of genuinely nice people, who want to offer thorough education to students, and each team member will soon receive their assessment scores, feedback and educator level.

Sandy and I are used to communicating over Zoom and via WhatsApp about Artistic education, so I enjoyed getting to know her better in person and focusing on how to grow the education team and brand. I’m already looking forward to the next education event!

For more information about Artistic Nail Design products and training, visit www.louellabelle.co.uk /LouellaBelle @louellabelle SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Hair & beauty business coach, MADDI COOK, shares top tips to elevate your offerings & enhance your profits

5 WAYS TO GROW YOUR NAIL BUSINESS ONLINE

About Maddi

Maddi Cook is the owner of Boss Your Salon, which helps empower hair and beauty pros to price perfectly, set boundaries and grow without burnout. She strives to ‘put more money into the pockets of the hair and beauty industry’ and believes that business growth is for everyone.

Maddi has worked with over 15,000 hair and beauty pros, on her mission to change how the industry values itself. She believes that money is an amplifier; meaning that more money allows workers to do great things: for themselves, their family and their community.

“By sharing your knowledge and expertise, you’ll attract a loyal following of people who trust your advice and may eventually become paying clients, or refer other people who will.” www.bossyoursalon.com /bossyoursalon @bossyoursalon 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

H

ey there, nail boss! Are you looking to grow the profile of your nail business online, but don’t have lots of spare cash to throw at things like paid ads?

Don’t worry, I’ve got some tips to help you get bums on seats, on a budget.

The number one thing to keep in mind when you’re marketing, is that you need to understand your ‘rockstar client’. Don’t try and speak to anyone and everyone, as you will end up with vague content that doesn’t target anyone in particular.

Think of the type of person you’d love to book an appointment with you, and imagine you’re speaking directly to them, whenever you’re showing up online.

1. Leverage the power of social media

The clue is in the name; it’s called ‘social’ media, not ‘post and ghost’. Reply to comments, engage with your followers, and use the tools the platforms give you – from engagement stickers and polls in your Instagram story, to video replies to comments in TikTok. Use your platforms to create hype around your business, by sharing what you’ve been working on or new services or training, and don’t forget to bring your clients and followers along for the journey.

It doesn’t all have to be about business, though.

People buy from people, so don’t be afraid to share more about you. I share my love for Crocs a lot, and now I get sent every Croc-related meme going, meaning I get more opportunities to engage and build relationships with my followers.

2. Make sure you’re Google -able

To reach clients who are looking for their next favourite nail tech online, it may be time to build a website if you don’t have one already. But it’s not enough to just have a website – you need to make sure that people can find it. Use search engine optimisation (SEO) techniques to make sure that your website appears at the top of search lists.

Use relevant keywords on your website, thinking of the clients’ words – not yours! For example, if your clients would say ‘nail extensions’ but you’d call them ‘nail enhancements’, use the former to have a better chance of being seen. Make sure your website is mobile-friendly and loads quickly.

3. Create educational content

This is a great way to position yourself as the go-to expert in your field and attract new clients.

Write blog posts, film YouTube tutorials, or put together some simple social media posts that share tips and advice. For example, you could create a video tutorial on how to build a nailcare routine into your day, or write a blog post about the best cuticle oils, or how to prevent nail breaks. By sharing your knowledge and expertise, you’ll attract a loyal following of people who trust your advice and may eventually become paying clients, or refer other people who will.

4. Offer rockstar-level customer service

Make sure that every client who walks through your door feels welcomed and appreciated.

Take the time to listen to their needs and concerns, and provide personalised recommendations that are tailored to their specific issues or desires. Go the extra mile by including a luxurious hand massage or a mini aftercare pack. Just make sure these are factored into your pricing! If you’re stuck, check out my pricing calculator at www.bossyoursalon.com/bossyourprofits.

Make it easy to leave reviews on your website or social media profiles by using automated emails or having a QR code at your nail station, and respond to both positive and negative feedback.

This way, you’ll attract more business through word of mouth recommendations, as well as from people who’ve read your glowing reviews online.

5. Collaborate with other local businesses Think about other businesses that serve the same type of clients, but aren’t in direct competition with you, and suggest ways to collaborate to help each other grow. You could team up with a local florist to offer a special occasion package, or collaborate with a nail brand to offer a discount on their products to your clients. This way, you get in front of each other’s audiences and both benefit.

Maddi x

#MeMyselfAndOPI ©2023 OPI • CALL 02039 015892 OR VISIT TRADE.OPIUK.COM .

SHOP NOW AT

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

MEET THE TOP 21!

Check out the shortlisted pros in the first World's Star Nail Artist competition & explore their 'out of this world' entry submissions...

I

n an overwhelming display of talent and enthusiasm for their craft, nail pros worldwide embraced a creative challenge and entered The World’s Star Nail Artist, a new competition for 2023 brought to the industry by Scratch.

The mission is clear: to recognise and reward global nail artists, push the boundaries of design, and offer a launchpad for further career opportunities.

NOEMI RESSZER Switzerland

From 1-28 February, nail artists were invited to submit a competition entry via the Scratch website. The entry form requested five images of their favourite nail creations, a video presentation about their love for artistry, and a task.

This task challenged pros to create an 'out of this world' design on one nail, featuring The World Star Nail Artist's signature gold star. The Scratch judging committee then had the daunting task of shortlisting the entrants.

Check out the 21 nail artists through to the next stage and their eye-catching task creations...

MONIKA KUPIEN UK 54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

DANA CECIL USA

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

DANIELLE BRINDLEY UK

TAN ADAMS UK

ERIN PASCHKE USA

CORINNA BALL UK

SARAH FONTAINE Canada

MARIJA DENIZ Denmark

NATHAN TAYLOR UK >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

LAIYING YIU China KAMILA BOROWIEC UK

ELIZAVETA BEKKER UK

NIXXI ROSE UK

VELICHKA YANCHEVA UK

SARAH KAY ABBOTT UK

LOI VAN NGUYEN UK

56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION FROUKJE GROENENDIJK The Netherlands

MELISSA WHIFFEN Canada

KATY POTTLE UK

GEMMA DAWSON UK

WHAT HAPPENS NEXT? A preliminary nail art task for these 21 talented pros will be set on 3 April, to be completed by 14 April. The submissions will be posted on the Scratch website and judged, resulting in eliminations. A group of up to 12 semi-finalists will then be unveiled.

These semi-finalists will compete in fortnightly nail art challenges from 1 May, which can be followed online, via Scratch's website and social media platforms. Eliminations will take place after each round - but the competition doesn't have to stop for eliminated nail stylists, as they will have the chance to re-enter via a series of exciting wild card challenges.

At the end of the challenge period on 7 July, a final three will remain. They will be required to submit one final artistic challenge, which will be judged and subject to public votes online to determine a winner.

The final three will be transported to London for the Scratch Stars Party on Sunday 23 July, at which the winner will be announced. The prize package is a trophy, £1000's in cash, cover and column in Scratch magazine, the title of The World’s Star Nail Artist 2023 and so much more!

scratchmagazine.co.uk/wsna POWERED BY:

#WorldsStarNailArtist PLATINUM SPONSOR: SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The ABOUT NICOLE

Nicole has been working as a nail technician for over 18 years. For the past 15 years, she has been running her business, Love My Beauty, from a rented beauty room inside her local hairdressing salon in Newcastle, offering nail and beauty treatments.

Nicole has worked as an educator for Pure Nails since 2019, and loves sharing her knowledge with students. /lovemybeauty

effect Pure Nails educator, NICOLE DOWLING, shares how to create a sparkly alternative French design using Halo’s L&P acrylic system…

1

2

Step 1 Prep the nails for enhancement application and apply Halo Mega Bond Primer. If you are new to L&P application, consider drawing the smile lines onto the nails using pencil as a guide.

Step 2 Apply a bead of Halo L&P in Cover Pink up to the smile line, using the tip of the application brush to make the smile line crisp. Ensure this bead is thick enough to allow your file to push up against it.

3

4

@nicoledowling94 Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat £9.99 + VAT

Step 3 Add a bead of Cover Pink to the base of the nail, near the cuticle area, and blend into the first bead. Ensure it is flush against the cuticle area and the sidewalls are slightly thicker around the smile line.

Step 4 This is the step where you will make the smile line crisp through filing. For ease, use a hand file with a high grit to file around the sides of the nail to refine the shape.

5 Halo Create Glitter in #BePretty £1.69 + VAT

6

Step 6 Before the coloured acrylic sets, tap Halo Create Glitter in #BePretty around the smile line using an acrylic brush.

Halo Mega Bond Primer £9.40 + VAT

Halo Create Acrylic Powder in Oslo £3.09 + VAT

Halo Acrylic Powder in Cover Pink (165g) £30.75 + VAT

Step 5 Apply a thin layer of Halo Create Acrylic Powder in Oslo up to the wall of the smile line, ensuring it is thin and doesn’t overlap the smile.

7

8

Step 7 Cover the smile line and tip using Halo Acrylic Powder in Clear. When the product has cured, refine using an 80-grit file. Buff the entire nail with a Halo Elite Buffer.

Step 8 Apply Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat and cure to finish.

Halo products are available via www.purenails.co.uk and associated stockists. /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk @purenailsuk

58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@purenailsuk

www.nailslaundry.co.uk ALL YOU NEED TO GLORIFY YOUR NAILS.

nails.laundry NailsLaundry

TRENDREPORT

N O I FASH Instagram.com/nichillsnails

LONDON

Naked half moon nails with a scarlet hue complemented the make-up at David Koma. Nails were led by Marian Newman.

Abstract nails for Ahluwalia, led by Ama Quashie (@amaquashie), using shades from the Pleasing nail polish brand.

CND Vinylux™ in Brimstone £5.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

The nails for 16Arlington were led by Sylvie Macmillan (@sylviemacmillan.nails) using CND™ products. She comments: “The vibe was sexy, with a tiny splash of weird. We wanted different opacities and finishes for contrast, and kept nails short. We opted for the sheer All Frothed Up shade, which tied in well with the sheer garments in the collection, combined with a subtle hint of mint. CND™’s Brimstone is a beige that looks great on everyone and offers opaque coverage. For a metallic finish, we picked Divine Diamond, which also reflects the mint tones perfectly, and Powerful Hematite which is jewel-like.”

60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Shimmering shades were seen alongside black and gold on the fingertips of models at Harris Reed. Simone Cummings (@simmy_nailsandbeauty) and her team used hues including CND Vinylux™ in Black Pool and Brimstone with gold leaf and chunky glitters.

CND Vinylux™ in Black Pool £5.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Instagram.com/the.fingersofgod

Instagram.com/amaquashie

Take a peek at nail styles that rocked the autumn/winter 2023 runways in London, Paris & New York

Nail artist, Liia Zotova (@the.fingersofgod), adorned nails for Frolov models with chains and gems for bold, striking looks.

Glitterbels Hema-Free Gel Polish in Glitter Ice £7.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Dark, glossy nails and hints of silver sparkle featured at Julien Macdonald, courtesy of the Glitterbels team. Shades including Glitterbels Hema-Free Gel Polish in Glitter Ice were used.

“Julien picked out a classy, half and half nail,” explains Glitterbels photographer & content creator, Ebony Shepherd. “He paired this look with the darker designs in his collection, and the team created the runway looks in advance, on around 300 press-on nail tips.”

D R A W FOR TRENDREPORT

Instagram.com/sylviemacmillan.nails

s p i t r f inge

Instagram.com/sylviemacmillan.nails

The nail looks for Asai were created by Sylvie Macmillan Jessica Custom Colour shades in and her team, who were Sunset Boulevard & Just Married inspired by Chinese ceramics, £5.50 + VAT/RRP £11 each lacquer techniques and Asai’s www.gerrardinternational.com iconic Hot Wok fabrics.

Image courtesy of Linkedin.com

Instagram.com/anhhhoang_

White and black French tips adorned the nails of female models for the Edward Crutchley show, led by Marie-Louise Coster (@mlcnailartist) using Jessica Custom Colour shades Just Married, Chalk White and Sunset Boulevard, with Jessica’s Brilliance Top Coat to finish.

Pointed nails with a quirky black ombré effect were showcased at Chet Lo, courtesy of session nail artist, @yuikaaanails.

Instagram.com/sylviemacmillan.nails

Instagram.com/yuikaaanails

Bronze tones dominated at Mark Fast, courtesy of lead nail tech, Sammy MacDonald (@s.a.m.m.y.m.a.c) and her team, using OPI products.

Silver, chrome-style nails shone at Ancuta Sarca, courtesy of Anh Hoang (@anhhhoang_).

Dark toes at Burberry contrasted with mustard and purple tones in the collection.

The nails were led by Sylvie Macmillan.

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61

Instagram.com/laurenmichellepires

PARIS CND PlexiGel™ Builder £19.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Liia Zotova led the nails for DIDU at Paris Fashion Week, using CND™ products. She comments: “The collection featured a lot of fluidity, so we wanted to recreate that in the nails. Imagine you create a beautiful extension on a form, and then don’t file the edges, so the shape is unfinished. I used CND PlexiGel™ to create the texture of the nails, applying with the brush to create more built up areas, to mimic the look of water flowing.”

‘Blackened and bloodied nails’ were the brief for Alexander McQueen AW23, led by Ama Quashie. The dark nail styles contrasted with the glamour of the fashion collection.

62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Instagram.com/sylviemacmillan.nails

Instagram.com/amaquashie

Instagram.com/amaquashie

London-based manicurist, Lauren Michelle Pires (@laurenmichellepires), keyed the nails for Off-White, creating ‘off-kilter chrome bar nails’ for the lunar-themed show.

Sylvie Macmillan and her team of nine assistants created avant-garde lace looks for Mugler’s show, complementing the grit and glamour of the design house’s autumn/winter 2023 collection.

CND Vinylux™ in Negligee £5.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

A French manicure fit the ethos of the Nina Ricci collection, which was feminine and focused on showing natural beauty in its authenticity.

“We used the CND Vinylux™ shades Beau, Negligee and Nude Knickers to mimic a natural tone on the models’ nails,” comments nail stylist, Simone Cummings. “With the use of the CND Vinylux™ 2-in-1 applicator in Cream Puff, we altered the brushes to mimic a striper brush, which allowed us to create a quick French nail application with minimal clean up.”

.

TRENDREPORT

TRENDREPORT

Instagram.com/jinsoon

Bold, bright ‘American snack nails’ featured on the Alice + Olivia runway, courtesy of Jin Soon Choi (@jinsoon) and her team. The nail stylist used hues from her JINsoon nail lacquer range, with custommade nail art stickers, to create the playful looks.

Juan Alvear (@byjuanalvear) led the nail styles for design house, Dion, at NYFW, commenting: “Dion’s collection feels transformational – like a snake shedding skin. When creating the nail looks, we wanted something that felt almost reptilian, yet in theme with Dion’s minimalist and chic designs.

“The uniform CND™ colour chosen was White Wedding, which is super on-trend and complements the designer’s vision perfectly for this season. The hero armadillo sets display a scaled texture and visual feel, but also look like a natural extension of the models’ hands.”

Instagram.com/naominailsnyc

Instagram.com/nailsbymei

NYC-based nail stylist, Mei Kawajiri of @nailsbymei, led the nail looks for Alexander Wang’s ‘Cupid’s Door’-themed AW23 collection. A red glow was cast over the runway, and Mei and her team channelled this shade onto toes, visible under sheer tights. The fingernail styles were natural-looking, with lacquer shades custom-mixed.

The Blonds has partnered with CND™ for a number of seasons, to create standout looks for its fashion showcases. “The sets for The Blonds this season were inspired by Valley of the Dolls, glitz and glamour,” comments lead nail stylist, Juan Alvear. “We had a lot of rhinestone moments; crystals stacked on crystals, as well as a play on the classic French by doing a CND™ Black Pool velvet tip on different coloured bases, such as Satin Pajamas, Aura, Love Fizz and Blue Moon, which were also framed with rhinestones.”

Instagram.com/naominailsnyc

Instagram.com/jinsoon

NEW YORK

Sword nails with jagged edges stunned against tartans, houndstooth and studs at the PRISCAVera showcase, courtesy of Naomi Yasuda (@naominailsnyc).

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Polish It Up MCR

Location: Manchester

Working under the brand name, Polish It Up MCR, Jess Walford’s priority is to provide a personalised, one-to-one experience for her clients. She divides her time between working at a local beauty premises, La Belle, and from a studio room in a tanning salon. The studio is decorated in calming and neutral tones, with natural wood accents to assert a relaxing environment in which clients can enjoy L&P acrylic and gel enhancements, manis, pedis, builder gel services and nail art.

Jess was already attending college when she decided to pursue a Level 2 nail qualification at an evening college, quickly discovering a passion and talent for the craft. She undertook an apprenticeship, completing a Level 3 nail qualification at La Belle, and continued to develop her skills through a range of courses. Jess has been offering nail services for nine years.

The nail pro’s creativity extends from fingertips to salon styling, as she created floral decorations for her premises around her logo and throughout the space. “My favourite part of the salon is my beauty bed,” Jess explains. “I find multiple uses for it by folding it up into a chair to use for pedicures, so the client’s feet are higher up, which makes the service more comfortable for us both.”

Jess has plans to expand her business with a setup in her garden. “I’ve recently bought my first house, and have always dreamed of being able to build a garden nail studio,” she reveals. “I’m very lucky to say that many of my clients have been coming to me for years and have become friends, which makes my salon a lovely place in which to work.” /PolishItUpMCR

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

@polish_it_up_mcr

Bambu

Location: Stoke-On-Trent

At the age of 14, Andrea Martin undertook work experience at a salon and fell in love with the beauty industry. She committed to a Saturday job as soon as she was able, commenting: “I had no idea that cleaning out a coffee machine and changing Barbicide would be the foundation of my career. I learned the importance of attention to detail during that Saturday job, from folding towels to building relationships with colleagues and clients.”

Andrea attained a nail qualification when she finished school, and furthered her training to offer spray tans, ear piercing, lash extensions, HD Brow services and Elemis treatments. She currently offers L&P acrylic and gel services, as well as luxury pedicures. “Nail art has always been a specialty of mine, which is why many of my clients booked their initial appointment with me,” Andrea shares.

“My salon is somewhere clients can visit to feel good, chat, shake off any stress, and leave with a smile. I want every client to feel comfortable with no negative energy.”

The salon’s décor is simple, fresh and clutter-free. “Many clients comment on how bright and welcoming Bambu is, and how it has a cosy touch and is in a lovely community, where locals walk past and wave daily,” Andrea smiles. /bambubeauty53 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@_bambu_53

SPEAK LOUD

HEART BRAKER

GOT MY ATTENTION

RADIATE MY LOVE

CUT TO THE CHASE

SHE’S A SPARK PLUG

WATCH ME

TORQUE IT!

ON TO THE NEXT GREASE MONKEY

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ArtisticNailDesign.com PROFESSIONAL FORMULAS | PROFESSIONAL RESULTS™ MODEL IS WEARING SHE’S A SPARK PLUG

© Artistic Nail Design • Nail Alliance - Artistic, Inc., Missouri USA • HM-6584

0333 000 2100 +44(0)20 8238 6300 info@louellabelle.co.uk www.louellabelle.co.uk

facebook.com/louellabelle @louella_belle linkedin.com/company/louella-belle

pinterest.com/louellabelleuk instagram.com/louellabelle

7 success PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Enhance your pedi game & re-energise tired feet with Lyco’Pedi, the latest addition to the Lycon professional product portfolio

Behind the Lycon brand is an internationally acclaimed beauty therapist, devoted to quality, results-driven cosmetics. Lydia Jordane established the company in Australia in 1978, one year after her industry journey began, and developed a range of skincare and waxing products under the influence of her father, a cosmetic chemist. She marked 40 years in the trade with the launch of the Lycon Lyco’Pedi Professional Pedicure System in 2017.

“Lycon wanted to present a solution for salons and spas offering footcare treatments that was crafted with clients in mind; delivering relaxation and rejuvenation for tired feet,” comments a spokesperson for the brand. “The revitalising aromas of lemon tea tree and peppermint will help transform the atmosphere of a salon into a place of tranquillity.”

Seven products make up the range, including a soak, mask and smoothing cream, with formulations including hyaluronic acid, fruit AHAs and shea butter for hydration, plus marine collagen, pro-vitamin B5, vitamin E and aloe vera to soothe. Lyco’Pedi products are available individually in a variety of sizes for professional and retail use, and in convenient kits for the therapist or client. The Professional Kit (£70 + VAT) features all seven products in standard salon sizes, while the Mini Kit (£26.50 + VAT/RRP £52.99) includes mini sizes of the Refreshing Soak, Massage Lotion, Sugar Scrub, Hydrating Mask and Smoothing Cream in a carry bag.

“The collection helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, minimise free radical damage and invigorate the skin’s appearance and feel, delivering completely refreshed feet,” the Lycon spokesperson continues. Many of the products can be used in manicure services, too.

Anastasia Jolley, founder of The Retreats, a beauty, skincare and wellness venue in Cambridge, elevated the salon’s footcare services with Lyco’Pedi after being impressed with Lycon’s wax products. “At The Retreats, we only use brands and products that I truly believe in,” she comments. “Pedicures are one of the most popular treatments in the salon, so using products that deliver great results is essential.

After using Lycon’s wax range for many years, I was attracted to the Anastasia Jolley Lyco’Pedi product range.

“When a pedicure client arrives at The Retreats, they are given a warm welcome and shown to a dual pedi area, where they can enjoy a hot drink or cucumber-infused water during their treatment. I have very high standards and love the quality and scent of the Lyco’Pedi range, and my clients leave the salon with smooth, refreshed feet. Happy clients make for a happy salon owner!”

66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Image courtesy of The Retreats, Cambridge

STEPS TO

EXCLUSIVE OFFER!

Scratch readers can save 10% on Lyco’Pedi products by using code SCRATCH23 at www.lyconuk.com

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Meet the products

1

REFRESHING SOAK

This purifying foot bath gently and effectively cleanses the feet, leaving them feeling soft and revitalised.

It features lemon tea tree and peppermint essential oils to refresh feet and fight odour, marine collagen to hydrate, and pro-vitamin B5, vitamin E and aloe vera help to soothe and moisturise. Only a small amount is needed, especially when used in a hydro foot bath.

Available in 50ml, 500ml & 2.5L sizes. The 500ml size is £10 + VAT/RRP £20.

2

SUGAR SCRUB

Effectively exfoliate and remove dead skin cells with this oilfree scrub. The formula helps banish calluses and dry rough skin to reveal brighter, silky-smooth feet. Sugar crystals feature for natural exfoliation.

Available in 65g, 520g & 2.5kg sizes.

The 520g size is £15 + VAT/RRP £30.

3

Soften and remove hard, callused skin and cuticle build-up with this non-drip formula. Potassium hydroxide features to gently soften calluses, making them easy to buff.

Available in 100ml & 500ml sizes. The 100ml size is £10.60 + VAT.

PEDI PADDLE

MASSAGE LOTION

Pro-vitamin B5, vitamin E, sweet almond oil and jojoba oil work in harmony to hydrate and smooth dry skin. Ideal for a deluxe foot and leg massage, this lotion leaves a silky-smooth finish and is non-greasy.

Available in 50ml, 500ml & 2.5L sizes.

The 500ml size is £13 + VAT/RRP £26.

7 6

Step 1: Soak feet Dissolve the Lyco’Pedi Refreshing Soak in a foot bath of warm water, and allow feet to soak for a few minutes. Place both feet onto a towel and dry well.

Note: If using a hydro bath, use very little Refreshing Soak to avoid excess bubbling.

Step 3: Buff Buff calluses with the Lyco’Pedi Paddle.

Step 4: Scrub Exfoliate feet and legs with the Lyco’Pedi Sugar Scrub and a small amount of water. Wash both feet and cuticles well and towel dry.

Step 5: Prep & smooth Repeat any steps on problem areas if required, and prep and clean the nails.

Ergonomically designed, the Lyco’Pedi Paddle has coarse and fine sides to remove dead skin build-up. The paddle can be used on wet or dry skin and can be retailed for client maintenance at home.

The Pedi Paddle is £7 + VAT and replacement sandpaper (30pk) is £9.50 + VAT.

5

Prior to the pedi service, conduct a thorough consultation and check for damage, broken skin or contra-indications. If safe to proceed, sanitise the feet and shape and file the nails as desired.

Step 2: Callus & cuticle treatment Apply Lyco’Pedi Callus & Cuticle Remover directly onto hard skin, or compress onto areas with a dry tissue. Leave for 3-5 minutes, or longer for thickly callused skin. While it works, apply Lyco’Pedi Callus & Cuticle Remover to cuticles for 30 seconds to soften and remove.

CALLUS & CUTICLE REMOVER

4

STEP-BY-STEP: The Signature Lyco’Pedi Treatment

HYDRATING MASK

This rich yet fresh crème-gel is enriched with marine collagen and hyaluronic acid to rapidly hydrate, moisturise and revive tired feet. The clay-free mask wipes away easily, and doesn’t leave a greasy or powdery residue.

It features shea butter for additional hydration and skin barrier repair.

Available in 40ml, 400ml & 2L sizes. The 400ml size is £13 + VAT/RRP £26.

SMOOTHING CREAM

The Lyco’Pedi Smoothing Cream is a treat for feet, containing a hydrating blend of ingredients to rapidly replenish and moisturise.

Shea butter soothes and helps improve skin barrier function, while alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) naturally exfoliate and soften hard skin and calluses.

Available in 75ml, 250ml & 2.5L sizes. The 250ml size is £13 + VAT/RRP £26.

Step 6: Massage Apply the Lyco’Pedi Massage Lotion to feet and legs, massaging each for 3-4 minutes.

Wipe away residue with a wet, hot towel.

Step 7: Hydrate Apply the Lyco’Pedi Hydrating Mask to feet and legs, and wrap each in dry, warm towels or heated booties. Leave for a minimum of 5 minutes.

TREATMENT UPGRADE! If desired, incorporate the Lyco’Pedi Thermal Paraffin Mask into the treatment by applying a small amount of Hydrating Mask, massaging it into feet and legs, and then applying the Paraffin Mask.

Leave for a minimum of 5 minutes, then remove and wipe feet clean with a wet, hot towel.

Step 8: Smooth Massage the soothing and rejuvenating Lyco’Pedi Smoothing Cream into feet and legs.

Step 9: Nailcare Ensure nails are clear of product residue, and proceed with the desired nail service. www.lyconuk.com @lyconuk

/LyconWaxUK @lyconuk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 67

BUSINESSMATTERS

Tipping

POINT

Nail pros share their stance on taking tips from clients: whether they do it, how they promote it & their feelings about the concept

SARAH ROBERTS

Lecenté educator & owner of Sarah Roberts Nail Studio & Academy, Maidstone, Kent. /slrnailartist

@slrnailartist

“Tipping is a very personal choice, so I feel that a client should never feel pressured to tip. It’s a lovely compliment to receive a tip, but it’s simply not in the nature of some clients, and no tip does not necessarily mean that the client is dissatisfied with their treatment. If you run your own business, it’s important to ensure that your treatment price is set high enough that you don’t need to rely on tips. That way, whether your client chooses to tip or not, your costs and time are covered.

“Tips may be appropriate when a professional has gone above and beyond to ensure client satisfaction. That might mean working late, accommodating a client last minute, or going out of your way to ensure they have a perfect experience for a special occasion. Some clients prefer to tip seasonally rather than year-round, so will offer a large tip at Christmas, for example. Additionally, salon juniors often value tips.

“Discussing tips can be uncomfortable for both parties. To avoid this, you could have a prompt on your card machine that asks the client if they wish to add a tip. Some machines will allow you to offer pre-set options, such as 10%, 15% or 20%. This can be accepted or declined discreetly by the client and works well to avoid any embarrassment.”

“If you run your own business, it’s important to ensure that your treatment price is set high enough that you don’t need to rely on tips. That way, whether your client chooses to tip or not, your costs and time are covered.”

Sarah Roberts 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

RUTH MUNRO

Magpie Beauty educator & owner of Little Blank Spaces, Inverness, Scotland. /littleblankspaces @littleblankspaces

“I think that clients should tip their nail technician if they believe the service deserves it. We are in the habit of tipping in the hospitality industry, and for services such as taxis, so I believe that there should be tips for personal care service providers. Nail techs often go above and beyond with clients. If a technician has worked late to squeeze a client in before a special occasion, bought a certain product to give the client a design they have requested, or simply just given a great service, I think the tech is deserving of a tip.

“When my clients book an appointment with me, they have the option to add a £5 tip at checkout. This makes it easy for my clients to tip me for their service if they want to, and means I don’t need to approach the subject with them.”

BUSINESSMATTERS

ILEX WOOD

Glitterbels educator & owner of The Nail Gallery, Bawtry, Doncaster. @ilexwood_nails @thenailgallery_bawtry

“Receiving a tip from a client is a nice, welcome bonus, but I do not think it is something we should expect, as we are providing a service for a specified cost. If you feel you deserve more for the treatments you provide, you need to increase your prices.

“If you’ve gone above your service expectations, a tip is something you’ll appreciate, but I believe techs should be doing this anyway, regardless of whether there is a bonus at the end. The price value for your services and for delivering excellent standards should be built into your pricing format, as a client does not just pay for the treatment.

Their payment goes far beyond that, so you should be charging accordingly.

“I don’t think you should ever have a conversation with your client regarding tipping, as you may lose the client, embarrass yourself or the client, or create an uncomfortable situation or atmosphere. Having a treatment is a luxury for some clients, and I feel in my business that it would be unfair and discriminatory to expect more than what I charge.”

JODIE RICHARDS

Owner of Beauty Haven by Jodie, Caerphilly, Wales. /beautyhaven.byjodie @beautyhaven_byjodie

JAZ MOGER

Salon System nail expert & owner of Paint by Jaz, Battle, East Sussex. /paintbyjaz

“Personally, I would never expect to be tipped, purely because I mainly do the job for myself – it’s my passion!

I also think that my prices are ample for clients to spend on my services in my area.

“I don’t expect my clients to tip, as my prices are constructed to ensure profit without one. If someone does tip, it’s a bonus and I’m extremely grateful. Some of my clients will occasionally ask me if I’d like a coffee brought into the salon, which is a lovely treat. All clients receive the same service whether they tip or not, but I do remember the ones who tip.

“There are a few situations where I would appreciate the recognition for my efforts through a tip, although I wouldn’t expect it.

For example, a lady who had never visited my salon before, messaged me at 11pm asking for help. She had been to another salon for her wedding nails and was very unhappy with them, but was flying abroad for her wedding two days later.

I got up early to be at work for 6am, in order to fix them for her.

As a bride-to-be myself, I empathised and the client was so grateful. She did tip me, but I didn’t expect it! It was nice that my efforts were appreciated.

“If you rely on tips to make profit, ensure you always give an outstanding service. Make your clients feel special by remembering small personal details they have told you, whether these are about their lives, how they like their nails shaped, or the colours they like or dislike. Little touches like this may make a client more inclined to tip you.”

“I would never directly ask for a tip, but I am considering adding a tip jar to the reception desk in my salon. If appropriate, I don’t see any issue with techs explaining how much effort they put into their work, and the passion and love they have for it. The cost of products, overheads and the time things take can also be a conversation that will spark food for thought with clients.”

@paintbyjaz

“Receiving a tip from a client is a nice, welcome bonus, but I do not think it is something we should expect, as we are providing a service for a specified cost. If you feel you deserve more for the treatments you provide, you need to increase your prices.”

Ilex Wood SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

THE

mobile CLUB

Award-winning mobile nailist, CLARE WOODCOCK, shares top tips for making a success out of working on the move…

ABOUT CLARE WOODCOCK

Clare Woodcock is founder of The Nail Club, a mobile beauty business based in Sunbury upon Thames, Surrey.

She began her nail industry journey in 2017, following 20 years in the music and entertainment sector as a senior PR manager and event producer. Clare trained with Gelish and has since expanded her nail and beauty knowledge with Bio Sculpture, Nouveau Lashes and HD Brows. She was awarded gold at the British Hair & Beauty Awards 2021 for Mobile Therapist of the Year, and scooped the Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year title in 2022. Clare also works as director of communications for the Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP).

W

How to manage risks as a mobile pro

hoops; a red gel polish has spilled over a client’s beige carpet. It happens – but are you prepared for incidents like this when working in a client’s home?

When I was first starting out, I spilled acetone during an appointment, which seeped through my towel onto the client’s table, damaging its coating. There was nothing I could do apart from apologise and offer to have the table repaired. Luckily, the client wasn’t too distressed about the spill as it wasn’t on her favourite table, but I’ll never forget how the situation made me feel.

Another time, my nail cleanser containing isopropyl alcohol spilled onto my towel, causing it to stick to and melt a client’s plastic table underneath. It was a temporary table so wasn’t a huge issue, but another client may not have been so understanding.

In response to these incidents, I reassessed my work methods and ditched using a towel, opting for protective mats. I now cover my entire working area with large desk mats (in my brand colours, of course) to protect any surface I work on in a client’s home.

You may decide to take your own table to appointments instead, but be mindful not to knock anything or cause strain when carrying it.

Make sure you have public liability insurance that covers you and your clients for any damage to their home. Having insurance is mandatory in any beauty business, especially as members of the public are involved.

As a mobile pro, you need to consider a wide variety of potential risks – not only to your client’s property but also to them, yourself and anyone else present at the appointment. Draw up a risk assessment to help you evaluate your processes, ensuring that you are doing everything in your power to minimise potential accidents and harm. That way, should you need to raise an insurance claim, or if a client decides to sue you, you have evidence that you enforce clear health & safety protocols to the best of your ability.

70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Points to consider:

• Cables & electrical equipment: are they new and within their guarantee period? If not, they may need to be PAT tested.

• Trip hazards: be careful not to tangle yourself in cables, and be conscious of where you place your equipment.

• Product spills: ensure that you have protective coverings and place liquid products on these.

• Children & pets: keep your bags zipped up if children or pets are present, to avoid your valuables or chemical-based products getting into the wrong hands or paws. Clients are usually adept at protecting their little ones or fur babies, but it is always better to be safe than sorry! You might want to consider setting boundaries before clients’ appointments, listing these on your website or social media platforms in FAQs or booking information sections.

If you are working from a particularly small space, don’t get all your equipment out at once. I pack things in my bag as I finish using them to ensure a clean working space, which minimises the risk of spills. I also clear rubbish into nappy sacks as I work, as these can be tied up at the end of a service and disposed of safely in a client’s bin. Consider keeping bottles in a container or holder during appointments, so you’re less likely to knock them over.

You need to imagine every possible scenario where chaos might ensue, and make sure you are one step ahead. Accidents happen, so watch that pot of glitter and its potential to create a beautiful but irritating mess!

Until next month,

Clare

www.thenailclub.uk /thenailclublondon @thenailclublondon

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TECHTALK

A STAND-OUT P Brockhill-based nail pro, Andrew Rumford, is on a mission to make a statement.

Here, he reveals how he showcases his sunny personality through nail art & an unusual salon styling concept CALLIE ILEY REPORTS

A

ndrew Rumford (Andy) of Andy’s Nails has amassed an impressive following of over 100,000 fans on TikTok, owing to his extreme nail styling skills and colourful, eye-catching artistry.

He’s always been a creative individual, but happened upon the nail industry by chance after missing the signup deadline for a hairdressing course. “The college offered me a place to train in nails, and as soon as I started, I realised I had found my passion. I love the skill and creativity that nail styling affords.”

After completing an NVQ, Andy worked for Nails Inc, perfecting the nails of clients including The Only Way Is Essex star, Jess Wright. Andy then went on to work at various salons across Birmingham and Cannock, before he decided to move closer to home, setting up a nail space in the summerhouse in his garden in Brockhill, Redditch.

“Andy’s love for colour extends from fingertips to his salon décor, and it was his mission to showcase his bright personality and creativity throughout the space.”

72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

In January, Andy made the decision to move the business into his garage, converting half of the space into a salon.

“It felt like the right time, as I already had a client base and an up-and-running business. The summerhouse was expensive to heat, as I had to use an electric fan heater. It was also small and compact, with minimal wall space to showcase my vast array of nail colours.

“The garage offers more space and allows me to tend to two clients at a time, as it features a double desk, so I can soak off the nails of one client as I finish art on another. It’s warmer, as it has a radiator, and is much brighter than the summerhouse, as the door is made from glass and I’ve had a window installed. Making the move into my garage also meant I could redecorate, offering clients a trendy, modern salon space.”

PAINT JOB

TECHTALK

“My signature nail style is a long coffin or stiletto nail shape with a bright, airbrushed finish – which may be why I was drawn to a spray-painted mural.”

The vision Andy’s love for colour extends from fingertips to his salon décor, and it was his mission to showcase his bright personality and creativity throughout the space. “I am a creative, bubbly and outgoing person, and I love bold, bright and unusual nail styles,” he shares. “I wanted my salon to be a calm space for treatments, but I knew I needed a splash of bold colour to match my personality.”

Andrew Mills

On noticing a design by graffiti artist, Andrew Mills of Graffiti By Title, at a salon in Birmingham, Andy approached him to commission a wall mural for his garage. Andy began

to conceptualise the design, knowing he wanted bold colours used to complement his nail creations.

“The inspiration for the mural came from a black and white image of a lady with red lips and nails that I found online,” Andy shares. “I didn’t like aspects of it, so I worked with Andrew to alter some facial features such as the eyes, and we added colour.

Andrew sent over some colour change ideas, which I loved, and set to work.”

Idea to inception “Once the design was agreed upon, Andy and I chose a day for me to create the mural,” shares Andrew, who has been painting murals for the last 38 years and became a full-time professional mural artist 15 years ago. “The bright and colourful colour scheme matches Andy’s >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73

TECHTALK

nail work, and I created and manipulated my drawing to fit the space.”

Andrew worked with spray paint, which he admits can be a difficult medium to use.

“Sometimes, things are just too challenging to paint, especially if there are lots of details or the space isn’t large enough,” he reveals. “Scaling a design up is the most stressful part of creating a mural, as there are several ways to do it and I have to use a different method depending on each space.

“I always enjoy working with my clients, taking ideas or images they may have seen and liked, and turning their vision into a reality. Having a feature wall creates a talking point and is great for social media advertising. Every piece I create is bespoke to my client’s requirements and is a fantastic alternative to standard wall decorations, like wallpaper. Generally, the murals are fun to create – even when there are challenges,” he laughs.

Andrew has been involved in street art since it exploded onto the global scene throughout the 80s and 90s. “I’ve seen it evolve, I am a part of it, and it is a part of me,” he shares. “Every day, if I’m not out somewhere physically painting, I’m at home drawing and designing, or thinking about my next project.”

The mural

The garage during its renovation.

74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A colourful mural by Andrew Mills for a project in Warwickshire, 2019.

Andrew’s artwork offers a huge source of creative inspiration for Andy, which he taps into at the nail desk. “It inspires me to create bespoke and colourful nail styles,

TECHTALK

“I am a creative, bubbly and outgoing person, and I love bold, bright and unusual nail styles. I wanted my salon to be a calm space for treatments, but I knew I needed a splash of bold colour to match my personality.” and it’s a talking point amongst clients, who often snap pictures of it on their visit. Many love that it is different, modern and Instagrammable.”

Andy’s advice to other techs considering a standout piece of art in their salon is to conduct a lot of research into the best artist and design for them. “A good artist can change elements of designs that you find to fit your requirements. A mural is an amazing investment and will last for many years.”

Andy’s bold mural is complemented by a vast selection of nail colours and glitters, which are neatly displayed behind his crisp, white nail desk. Within his premises, he offers gel polish, hard gel, L&P acrylic and Après Gel-X enhancements. “My signature nail style is a long coffin or stiletto nail shape with a bright, airbrushed finish – which may be why I was drawn to a spraypainted mural,” he smiles.

Follow Andy Rumford: /cabello.nails.79 @andys_nails_uk

@Andynailsuk

Follow Andrew Mills: /graffitibytitle @titlegraffiti www.graffitibytitle.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 75

The Client FILES TECH-NIQUE

Cater to the specific needs of nail clients with a variety of conditions with expert tips & advice...

WHO: Blind or visually impaired clients According to the NHS, mor e than two m living with sigh illion people in t loss, with 3 the UK are 40,000 of as blind or pa these people rtially sighted. re gistered Vision loss is important to a spectrum an be mindful th d it is at each client level of assist will require th ance in the na ei r own il space. Whe appointment, n they arrive ask if there is at their anything you needs. Be de can do to su scriptive with pport their your product massage or to se le ction and offe uch-friendly el r a hand ement to elev ate the treatm ent.

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• In ho t w ea th to fin d m y we bs r clients unders he ot d an am . te on e si th is at rm th pe esocial.com e s ur tre • Ens ocial the owner’ www.blossom @blossomtrees e dog without id ocia l gu es e tre th m t sso pe /blo to or

guide How to be ly d o g -f r i e n d

TECH TALK:

Laura Peat, Lecenté educator “During my time in the nail industry, I have welcomed a Laura Peat number of visually impaired clients who enjoy receiving a ma nicure,” shares Laura Peat. “They love knowin g that their nails look beautiful, but also en joy the company an d chat that comes with each appointment.

“M y sal on lay ou t is qu ite spa cio us, an d as soo n as my clie nt arr ive s, I ask the m to wa it in the sea ting are a or go stra igh t thr ou gh to the tre atm en t roo m if I am rea dy. I ask the m if the y wo uld like ass ista nc e, an d if so, I gu ide the wa y to the ir ch air. Als o, as I do wit h all my clie nts , I ask if I ca n tak e the ir ba g an d co at.

“One of my clients ha s poor sight but can still make out slight sha dows, so she always requests a shimmer or glitter nail finish, which she can enjoy .”

76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILS BRAILLE MY d Bra ille My Iris Avenue, launche

London salon, a 1. The initiative allows Nails in October 202 be to e rd or phras client to choose a wo ng nail art methods. usi ils na ir the to d adde tionwide are invited na s pro Salons and nail d upon signing up, will to join the initiative an ils kit that contains Na receive a Braille My rm the service. rfo pe ed ed ne everything rt of ing salons who are pa Iris Avenue is encourag y an m fro te 10% of profit the initiative to dona braille manicure to the Royal National Institute of Blind People. Salons that get involved will also be added to a salon finder that clients can use to find their nearest Braille My Nails pro. Currently, 24 salons are part of the initiative. d order a kit, To find out more an .com/braillemynails ue ven risa w.i ww visit

Junior Sterli ng of Sterli ng Vision has launched a way for clients to add bra ille to their nails, using the b raille alphabet a nd numbe rs in a sticker form . The com plete braille alpha bet is availa ble for £8.99 in c VAT. Email sterlingvisio n04@yaho o.co.uk to place an order.

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PROFESSIONAL PIERCING SERVICES BUILT ON TRUST AND EXPERTISE Studex offers FREE Training with the purchase of a starter kit, FREE Marketing assets and access to our Media Hub Contact us today to find out more STUDEX UK LTD. | studex@studexuk.co.uk | 01733 232350 | www.studexuk.com

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INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

Career

kickstart Introducing Couture Careers: a mentorship programme from Nail Couture Lincoln that supports the nail goals of deserving individuals REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

Chosen candidate for the programme, Elle Reidy, carrying out a practical assessment.

F

or many of the techs we speak to, working on nails is what they describe as their ‘dream career’, and one they were fortunate enough to embark on with support from friends, family and peers. However, not all individuals who aspire to be nail professionals are fortunate enough to have the opportunities available, or a support network, to make their dreams a reality.

“Our main aim Elle was chosen at the Couture Careers open in February, which gave Nicola a chance is for the chosen day to get to know the programme’s candidates, and for them to experience a taster day. For candidate, Elle, the next six months or so, Elle will receive to gain full-time mentoring and one-to-one accredited training in gel manicure, nail art and employment, either enhancement systems, with a full kit provided in a salon or as a for these treatments. “As with all our students, support doesn’t finish when Elle walks out of the self-employed pro, door,” adds Nicola. “We will also be educating giving her financial her on registering for self assessment, price setting professional boundaries stability in a job andstructure, the importance of continual professional she loves.” development, as well as organising work experience

“I’ve worked hard throughout my career, but thanks to the support of others, I’ve been able to embrace opportunities as they have arisen,” explains Nicola Sawyer, founder Nicola Sawyer of Nail Couture Lincoln, an independent training academy & UK distributor for brands including the company’s own Colour Couture Gel Polish. “Some people don’t have the privilege of support from others, particularly young adults leaving the care system, and due to a lack of funding, there’s very little financial support available for vocational courses.”

Nicola was crowned champion of the NAILS Next Top Nail Artist competition in Orlando last year, at which there was a presentation from non-profit organisation, Beauty Changes Lives.

The charity supports beauty professionals throughout their career journey; from finding the right school to scholarships, mentorship and entrepreneurial grants, and Nicola was inspired to make a difference on home turf. “I listened to peoples’ stories about how the charity had helped them and relayed them to my partner, Paul. We agreed that it would be wonderful to give an individual, who may struggle to fund their training and professional materials, the opportunity to kickstart their nail career,” she explains.

78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Working closely with children’s charity, Barnado’s, the concept became a reality this year and Couture Careers launched. “The charity, which supports young adults leaving care, is very close to my heart, as my father spent time in the care system while growing up,” shares Nicola. “Jo and Jean from Barnardo’s have been amazing, organising meeting rooms, drumming up interest in the programme and supporting our chosen candidate, Elle Reidy.”

for her in one of our Colour Couture specialist salons.

“Our main aim is for Elle to gain full-time employment, either in a salon or as a self-employed pro, giving her financial stability in a job she loves,” continues Nicola. But the business owner’s goals don’t end there, with plans to run Couture Careers annually and to offer this mentorship to more aspiring nail techs each year, through a partnership with Beauty Changes Lives. www.nailcouturelincoln.co.uk /nailcouturelincoln @nailcouturelincoln

INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

Elle and a fellow candidate at the Couture Careers open day.

Elle on completion of the Gel Polish Application training course.

Meet Elle Reidy

“Our chosen candidate for the 2023 Couture Careers programme, Elle Reidy, is 17 years-old and has a passion for all things beauty. She has already qualified in other treatments, which demonstrated to us her commitment to take her beauty career further,” shares Nicola.

Scratch learns what the programme means to Elle...

How did you get involved with Couture Careers?

“I was told about the Couture Careers programme by Jean, my care worker at Barnado’s. I’ve always had an interest in nails and beauty, so was excited by the opportunity.”

How did it feel to be chosen for the programme?

“I was over the moon to be chosen. I hope that Couture Careers will open lots of doors for me, and give me the opportunity to work for myself or as part of a salon team in a role I love.”

A gel polish style created by Elle.

Tell us about your love for beauty...

“I love making others feel good about themselves, and I know that people feel more confident when they’ve had a nail treatment.”

What are your hopes for your career?

“I hope to run my own beauty business. After speaking to Nicola, I’ve learned more about the global nail industry and hope that I can compete and travel to be a part of it.”

“Some people don’t have the privilege of support from others, particularly young adults leaving the care system, and due to a lack of funding, there’s very little financial support available for vocational courses.”

Candidates at the programme’s open day.

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

Salon System nail expert, CAROLINE ROBERTS, shares her favourite nail products, techniques & colourful creations

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Caroline Roberts Business name – Nail Fairy Location – Shropshire Years in nails – I decided to switch up my career from that of a hairdresser and barber to work on nails in November 2007. I have been self-employed ever since, and after working in a salon for many years, I plucked up the courage to start my own business as a nail technician working from home in 2014.

Trained with – I initially trained in manicure, pedicure and L&P acrylic enhancements with Beautiful Nails Ltd, Telford. I have since completed gel polish training with IBD via Grafton International, and E-file training with Blossom Academy and Lucy Pastorelli.

Favourite products – I love working with Salon System’s Gellux Builder Gel and Gel Polish range. The brand’s products offer a sleek high shine and the brush in each bottle is a curved shape, which allows me to get close to the cuticle area for a picture-perfect finish.

I also use the Lucy Pastorelli E-file and bits for nail prep, and HONA (Home of Nail Art) Art Gels, which are highly pigmented with a medium viscosity; ideal for painting smile lines and intricate details.

Favourite nail technique – I use a combination of an E-file and Glossify’s

150/150-grit nail file to achieve a smooth finish before and after applying builder gel and gel polish, and to prevent bulk.

Favourite nail design – Animal print is always popular with my clients and I love creating it. I also enjoy painting floral nail designs and perfecting a coloured French. Abstract styles are in demand and are fun to create, too, and I’m looking forward to creating seasonal nail styles with Salon System’s Seas The Day spring/summer Gellux collection.

Career ambition & vision – I want to maintain the success of my business and happiness of my clients. I also aspire to work at London Fashion Week, prepping the nails of models for the runway.

Who do you admire in the nail industry?

There are so many nail techs that I admire, but the work of Chantelle Vermont (@clawgasmic) stands out for me.

I came across her Instagram profile during lockdown and her work is incredible. She hosts plenty of inspirational live streams and is so friendly, helpful and supportive.

I also admire the work of @__ abigails_nails__, @rosemarienailartist, @rebekahxpritchard, @lee_beauty_studio, @lindseysbeautylounge1, @honeybunnybeauty, @bylucyalana_x and @byleah.x. They have each supported my career and encouraged me to stay strong, positive and to believe in myself. @xnailfairyx

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SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros…

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om/holliebed

sbeauty

S T A T S CUTBACKS FOR COSTS

Haircuts are the first professional beauty service British women would cut back on if money was tight, followed by hair colouring, gel manicures and acrylic nail services. Beauty Daily by Clarins surveyed 2,000 women to garner the results, which also found that 92% of respondents would consider more affordable options, before removing products and services completely from their beauty routines.

WORK IT OUT

The busiest day of the week for nail pros is Thursday, according to Scratch’s Nail Industry Survey 2022. A quarter (25.4%) of 800+ respondents revealed that Thursday is most popular with clients, followed by Monday (20%) and Saturday (19.3%).

Most loved...

This dreamy unicorn-style design by @holliebedsbeauty (inspired by @tipsnflickss) scooped over 1,000 likes when we reposted it on our Insta feed. It features an array of pastel shades, topped with a shimmering chrome effect.

A report by business insight provider, Gartner, has found that when customers feel valued during customer service interactions, the likelihood of repurchasing is 82%.

What’s more, the probability of positive word-of-mouth recommendations stands at 97%, demonstrating that the pre- and postshopping experience directly impacts customer satisfaction, fosters brand trust, and motivates customers to re-engage with the business.

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showcases a micro French with a black tip on short nails.

HOT STAT

The data team at the BBC has shared that beauty salons and tattoo parlours have prospered on high streets, while the number of banks and department stores has fallen. London showed a 6.5% increase in beauty services, with Great Britain showing a 5.9% increase, from 2020 to 2022. /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

@scratchmagazine

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Service with a smile

Millennials and Gen Z are trading in long, coffin-shaped nails for short, French manicures, according to the Pinterest Predicts report 2023 – and searches for ‘micro French nails’ have increased on the picture sharing platform by 235%.

Turn to page 40 for classic and London-based nail artist, Julia Diogo (@paintedbyjools), alternative French nail inspo!

paintedbyjools

OOH LA LA!

PARTY VENUE ANNOUNCED The Scratch Stars Party 2023 will take place at: THE UNDERGLOBE 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, London, SE1 9DT

Sunday 23 July 2023 7pm – 12.30am Enjoy complimentary drinks & entertainment, & see who shines in the Scratch Stars Awards & The World’s Star Nail Artist competitions!

JOIN THE FACEBOOK EVENT TO BE NOTIFIED WHEN TICKETS GO ON SALE

bit.ly/scratchstars scratchmag

scratchmagazine

scratch.magazine

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THE SCRATCH STARS AWARDS IS SPONSORED BY:

THE WORLD’S STAR NAIL ARTIST COMPETITION IS SPONSORED BY:

BUSINESSMATTERS

CONVERSATION Are you or your clients guilty of oversharing, or of all-too casual conversations in the nail space? CHLOE RANDALL explores how to perfect the line of professionalism in-person, on the phone & online

corner F

or many clients, an enjoyable element of a nail appointment is chatting to the technician and catching up in a comfortable setting. Many pros also consider this a perk of their job. However, such a relaxed environment may lead to conversations becoming more personal, with the lines of professionalism blurred.

The consequences of this could potentially be very awkward. You may be privy to information that weighs on your mind, or another client may overhear your discussions and feel uncomfortable – or share details of it with others. While it’s great to maintain a friendly relationship with clients, creating too personal a rapport could lead them to taking advantage.

If a ‘friendship’ is established, they may feel they can cancel on you last minute or arrive late – and the disposition you’ve established may prevent you from enforcing your policies.

Stick to general topics at the nail desk and move any conversations with personal elements along quickly. Establishing conversational boundaries will ensure a comfortable experience for all.

Here, Scratch explores ways to address clients, topics for chat, subjects to avoid and everything in between…

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BUSINESSMATTERS

BEFORE THE APPOINTMENT…

First impressions count, and your manner in person, over the phone or via social media sets the tone for the relationship between you and your client.

You never get a second chance to make a first impression, so make it count.

Phone talk

For clients who ring to book an appointment or have a query, keep a professional, polite and friendly tone. This is the gateway to the booking – so if you answer mid school-run with a rushed tone rather than politely and attentively, for example, it could be the difference between the appointment being booked or not.

Liz McKeon

“Nail and beauty professionals should answer the phone quickly, accurately and professionally and be friendly at all times,” advises Liz McKeon, salon business expert.

“They should ensure all of the client’s questions are answered adequately and that the booking process is clear, smooth and straightforward. If you are unsure how to answer a client’s question, never ask them to phone back, as this can result in the loss of a potential client and it doesn’t show professionalism.

“Answer questions and solve problems promptly, with a friendly tone, and converse using the client’s name during the conversation. Showing interest will create an impression of warmth, concern and trust, as well as attention to detail. If you were a client phoning for the first time, how impressed would you be with the response?

“When speaking with a new client on the phone, be mindful that they may not know the terminology used in regard to your nail services, for example, ‘Builder In A Bottle’,” adds Ilex Wood, Glitterbels educator & owner of The Nail Gallery, Bawtry. “Pros know what that is, but a client may not, so discuss treatments as though you are talking to somebody who has never had their nails done.

TOP TIP

Set up an automated response for messages on social media, to keep potential and existing clients informed if there could be a waiting time to respond. If potential clients have to wait too long for a reply, they may look elsewhere.

Scan here for a step-by-step guide to setting up automated responses

Ilex Wood

“Explaining the purpose of the product and nail type suitability will not only help the right treatment to be selected, but will manage expectations and prevent a potentially awkward situation when the client arrives for their appointment.”

The correct address

Sam Marshall

“It is really important that you do not assume the client’s gender from the tone of their voice when they call,” advises Sam Marshall, salon owner, Habia advisor & inclusivity awareness educator. “They may book in as Claire, but have a deep voice that sounds typically masculine. This is why asking for pronouns can be a great option if you are uncertain about someone’s gender. To confirm you have heard the client correctly, consider asking for their title.

“The easiest way to collect pronouns is to add a custom field to your digital booking system, or simply to ask a client if they would like to share their pronouns at the time of booking. Add a field to any manual forms that they fill in when they arrive for their appointment.

“The pronouns the client provides will help you know how to address them, but it’s easiest to ask their preference. You need to be mindful that if someone uses multiple pronouns, the correct thing to do would be to ask them which they would prefer for you to use. If a client uses pronouns that may be different to the gender they were assigned at birth, it is important that the rest of the team is aware. Education is key, so consider investing in gender awareness training.”

Sam founded Be Trans Aware, a training programme focused on inclusivity and awareness surrounding the gender, sex and identity spectrum. Delivered both virtually and face-to-face, there is a course tailored specifically to salon teams.

Find out more and sign up by visiting www.betransaware.co.uk

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Social style “Calling a client by their name when discussing appointments or services via social media ensures a courteous, personal touch,” comments Ilex Wood.

However, she stresses that it’s important to leave the personalisms there. “If you can’t fit the client in for an appointment, there is no need to explain why or apologise, as this leaves you open to negotiation or further chat.

“Explain that you are unavailable at that time and offer available times. I would also hesitate to add kisses or heart emojis at the end of messages, unless you know the client on a more personal level.

“I think we should be lenient regarding the way the client first messages, too. Sometimes, texts can come across as rude or abrupt, and there could be many reasons for this, so understanding – to a point – is key. In my 12 years in industry, I have found that some people, who have been abrupt at the initial consultation, have become some of my most regular and much-loved clients.”

“There is a fine line between being relaxed with your client and opening a channel of communication where they feel too comfortable,” adds Giorgia Cappella, training & education manager at The GelBottle Inc. “It’s important to strike the right balance Giorgia Cappella of professionalism that makes your clients remember that you are running a business, without making them feel uncomfortable or anxious to message you.

“While it’s fine to remain relaxed, always remember that you are speaking to paying clients, not a friend, so address them appropriately and in the way you wish to be spoken to by a service provider.”

“Employing someone who can answer messages quickly and efficiently, ideally within one hour of them coming through, will make an excellent impression on the client,” adds Liz McKeon. “Always reply positively and with a degree of transparency. Many clients search on social media for salons to visit, so it’s now more important than ever to create a fantastic first impression when clients visit or contact you through your social media page..

“Use tools such as Instagram Stories to provide quick answers to clients. For example, create a Story Highlight with your pricing, details on how to book and frequently asked questions. This way, clients may not need to contact you and will be able to receive an answer instantly.”

TOP TIP

“This industry can be hard work, as clients can be demanding and frustrations may be expressed online,” says Giorgia Cappella. “I have witnessed negative posts on social media at times, where a technician wants to address a situation publicly to their clients, such a reinforcing a deposit or cancellation policy. However, these can often come across as passive aggressive and can make clients feel quite uncomfortable. If there is ever an issue to be raised, a calm discussion with a client can work better than a public airing.”

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DURING THE APPOINTMENT…

Once you’ve secured the appointment and the client is at the nail desk, you can concentrate on creating a memorable and purposeful experience. Experts share advice on how to ensure you have the right balance of conversation for a successful appointment…

TOPIC CHECKLIST Consider the following conversation topics to focus on and avoid with clients…

üCurrent nail trends

üFashion trends for nail inspiration & events to üHolidays look forward to ü Pets

üMusic & podcasts üFilms üTV programmes

üRestaurant recommendations üHobbies üWeekend plans üProfession üTreatment goals üPast treatment history üTreatment preferences üLifestyle üWeather Children (if led by the client) ü üCelebrities üAftercare for the treatment

û Religion û Politics

û Sex & relationships û Money û Crime û Other clients û Personal issues û Health û Race û Current affairs

BUSINESSMATTERS

Stay on topic “Maintaining professional boundaries at all times is important for your business success, and to protect your professional status,” shares Elissa Newton, Lecenté educator. “Often, professionals can over-share and then feel vulnerable when they get to know a client. Also, if a client wishes Elissa Newton to offload, be an ear to listen and do not offer advice on personal matters: only on nailcare.

“Being over-friendly can create a sense of over-familiarity, where both parties can lose respect for each other.

Always maintain a professional, friendly ambience for a smooth-running appointment.”

Jess Hinds

“I am mindful and respectful of every client’s opinion and situation,” adds Jess Hinds, INK London educator. “If you strongly disagree with a client’s point of view, which could cause tension, try to respond light-heartedly or from a neutral perspective and move the conversation on.

Stay silent For some clients, you may find that they are seeking a silent appointment, in order to relax and immerse in their own thoughts. Ask each client what they would prefer at the consultation stage.

“If you’ve asked a couple of questions and aren’t getting much response, feel free to stay quiet and ask questions that are relevant to the treatment,” adds Sam Marshall. “Another great tool to use in conversation is to match the volume and pace that your client speaks at, as this will be a great way to relate to them.”

Greetings CHECKLIST

“Working alongside people that know you well, and who can interject by changing the topic, can avoid awkwardness, too.”

“Good morning/afternoon, this is (salon name). How can I help you today?”

“Hi (insert name), thank you for reaching out! (Proceed to answer question).”

“Good morning/afternoon, how can I help you today?”

Stay professional Having an open chat with your client and getting to know them on a personal level may seem like an enjoyable option, but breaking these boundaries and becoming overfamiliar could damage your business in the long run. “Talking too much during appointments may lead to running over time, which can result in inconvenienced clients,” advises Elissa Newton.

“The most common mistake I’ve seen, is techs spending the duration of the appointment talking about themselves, when it’s the client they should be focused on,” adds Sarah Roberts, Lecenté educator. “Clients come to the salon for a bit of ‘me time’, and not to hear about their tech’s life or problems. If subjected to this, it can feel as though the client is not the tech’s priority, which is bad for business. There is little incentive to return somewhere that doesn’t seem to value your custom!”

Sarah Roberts

“Techs can prevent boundaries being broken by using formal language, and avoiding talking about their personal life,” comments Ruth Munro, Magpie Beauty educator. “If clients become too friendly with technicians, they may end up taking advantage and not respecting the tech’s policies and boundaries.”

“Once you cross that line, it is almost impossible to bring the boundaries back,” says Ilex Wood. “Clients will start to expect more and more from Ruth Munro you and may potentially challenge your prices, cancel last minute or want more than they have booked in for, which can put you in an uncomfortable situation.”

Liz McKeon adds: “Being overly casual can result in you coming across as rude to potential new clients. For existing clients, they may feel less inclined to tell you if they are unhappy with the service as they don’t want to upset your feelings, but this may in turn lead to a damaged relationship and them not returning.

“However, you do not want to be so professional that you sound dull, old-fashioned and almost robotic. The key is to have a happy balance and combine a friendly and professional approach.”

Retail revenue When your client is at the nail desk, you have their full attention and there is no a better time to try and upsell. Educate them on the benefits of the treatment they are having, anything additional you would recommend for them, aftercare advice and showcase your retail offering.

“You should also discuss client concerns,” suggests Liz McKeon.

“For example, should a client have nails that break easily, you may want to talk to them about how they can avoid this with the use of cuticle oils, or through a builder product on their nails.

“By doing this, you are not only listening to the client’s needs, building trust and providing the client with a fantastic service that will have them returning time and time again, but you can also upsell and generate extra revenue.”

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Tech for TECH-NOLOGY

Techs

REBECCA HITCHON gets the scoop on high-tech launches, decodes hot topics & sources tech-savvy tips for your business

Online retailing & your nail business Are you a retailing aficionado, or does the word instil fear? There can be misconceptions that retailing requires you to transform into a salesperson plucked straight from a TV shopping channel – but it is, in fact, much simpler.

Selling products that you trust and know will work for your clients is key, and the process can be enhanced through online systems.

Why retail?

While the extra income is a great incentive, retailing is another way to support the needs of clients, who are the backbone of your business.

“A full service involves suggesting a Susan Routledge homecare regime to keep the hands and nails of clients looking amazing,” explains salon & spa business consultant, Susan Routledge. “Each client needs to be a walking advert for your business, and a monthly client coming for a onehour treatment has 729 hours without your care.”

“If your website is where new and existing clients learn about your work and book services, it will make a great destination for online retailing.”

Why online?

If you feel intimidated by retailing, taking it online might seem like a huge hurdle to overcome. But by taking a leap, you could reap a number of benefits – and your clients will value anything that Adrian Thompson aids convenience. “Businesses make the mistake of thinking this is about technology.

It’s about people, what engages them and how they behave.

People increasingly expect technology to enhance their retailing experience,” comments Adrian Thompson, founder of imageHOLDERS, manufacturer of bespoke, interactive digital kiosks. “The retailers that succeed are those that find a balance between humans and technology.”

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What to retail Consider which products will address your clients’ issues, but also be exclusive enough for them to buy from you.

Online technology accommodates a popular bespoke retail item: e-gift cards.

With the right tech implemented into your website or through an external site, these can be customised to offer different monetary amounts, services, recipients and be scheduled for future sending. Another unique item is product hampers, put together with your clients in mind – such as self-care, natural nail, gel polish aftercare and seasonal nailcare kits.

Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year 2022 & columnist, Clare Woodcock, uses Square to manage the retailing of e-gift cards.

Where to sell

In theory, the more places you retail, the higher your sales – but it’s important to know your client base and the platforms they prefer to buy from. Clients will follow your work and gain nail inspiration through social media, so incorporating retail into these could suit them. For Facebook and Instagram, ensure your profile is a business account to be able to create a shop, which can then be linked across your content, such as homecare advice graphics or videos of the products used in a treatment. TikTok also has a retailing feature, however it currently appears to be more suited to large-scale e-commerce.

If your website is where new and existing clients learn about your work and book your services, it will make a great destination for online retailing. To make this a reality, your site’s hosting provider needs to be able to support and be secure for online retailing.

External websites offer ease in that there’s less work for you, but be aware that fees will be charged for each sale.

Finally, don’t forget to market your online retail offerings, such as through social media and email. You could even use incentives initially to entice clients into visiting your online store, such as deals on retail items or services when they buy from you.

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

YOUR GUIDE TO...

Are you keen to elevate your profile & try your hand at competing?

Scratch serves up the lowdown on globally renowned competition organisation, Nailympia

ALEX FOX

Global director, Nailympia Competitions & co-founder, Scratch magazine

“As a proud member of the nail industry for the past 25 years, I’ve been blessed with the best seat in the house to watch it grow and flourish. In my roles as an editor and organiser of Nailympia Competitions, I’ve seen first-hand the power of community, working together, education and product innovation.

Competition is a powerful tool and this industry has borne the fruit of this endeavour most intensely and effectively.

“The nail industry is teeming with remarkable people. From the artisan to the teacher, the inventive to the genius: the passion, drive, expression and vision that I’ve witnessed has always been my driving force. Nailympia is so much more than an arena. It’s a theatre, a stage, a circus and a retreat.

“During its 19 years, Nailympia has showcased the talents of nail techs all over the world, from venues in the UK, Australia, Estonia, USA, Canada, Germany and Mexico, and brought like-minded pros together to build on their careers and skills.

It’s helped pilot relationships, connections and growth, both personally and professionally.

“The nail industry can be a lonely place for many, but the competition arena’s ethos is being together and belonging.

It’s about regeneration, and it’s emotional, too.

Confidence is built, career trajectories changed, success is realised and wisdom accrued. Most of all, Nailympia is a friendly place. The expert judges work together to support and grow its presence, to bolster and comfort competitors, and to bring a huge positive energy cloud over all proceedings.

“Don’t deliberate, actuate. There is a Nailympia near you!”

THE STORY SO FAR…

Nailympia was born from The Nail Olympics USA, a competition established in 2001 in Las Vegas. Set up by three organisations, (IBD run by Lee Tomlinson, Dianne D’Agnolo and James Johnson of Too Much Fun, and David Daniel and Danny Haile of EzFlow), the concept behind this new competition was simple – to be non-biased and nonproduct led. In order to create a fair playing field for all, these three nail brands made it clear that competitors could use any system or brand and would be categorised by relevant divisions pertaining to their skill and expertise. These divisions were to be kept anonymous during each competition and judging, so that each competitor, regardless of skill level, was judged the same.

Only after judging were the competitors grouped and ranked in their own and correct division. This original ethos remains the same today.

“The growth of Nailympia Competition s is testament to the flourishing global nail sector, and the professionals within it that seek to better their skillset, raise industry standards and be part of something amazing. “ Scratch magazine is dedicated to championing talent and supporting industry growth, and through its partnership with Nailympia Competitions , it will continue to raise the profile of nail talent and techniques.”

Scott Derbyshire, CEO & publisher of Scratch magazine

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ETHOS

Nailympia’s reputation is based on it being run by an organisation and individuals that are non-product biased. Its growth and popularity across the world is a direct result of its mission to bring in key industry figures and experts to judge.

The judging panel is an international mix of industry experts who have amassed experience, knowledge and a reputation in their respective countries. Each judging panel has its regular judges for stability and flow, while also bringing in new and fresh experts each year to ensure Nailympia remains unbiased while evolving.

This annual competition has become a mecca for nailists seeking international recognition and industry accolades.

The competition began with six categories and now boasts between 10 and 17, depending on the location. Over the years, some categories have been eliminated and new ones have taken their place. These changes have been dictated by industry trends. Each Nailympia competition across the world offers the categories most relevant to its industry.

Nails by @andreea_nails Make-up by @makeupby_shoshi Model: @llamaalar

KEY KEY DATES DATES Nailympia Competitions is hosted in seven locations for 2023-2024, in partnership with Scratch magazine:

31 March-2 April: Nailympia Germany 2-3 April: Nailympia Anaheim 5-6 June: Nailympia Orlando 1-2 October: Nailympia San Antonio 8-9 October: Nailympia Columbus 15-16 October: Nailympia London TBA: Nailympia Mexico

WHY COMPETE?

Competing will stretch and fine-tune nail skills, providing a place to extend and explore creativity.

It is where a nail tech can shed salon life and show the world their artistic potential and ability.

Competitions challenge techs to step into a new place, to think and deliver their artistry in new ways through industry acknowledgement.

Many become industry experts and mentors, and their salon business benefits as their marketing reflects this element. If an award is won, it helps techs to extend their menu and raise their prices. It can also open many other doors in the nail industry that they may not have considered, such as being a brand ambassador or educator, designing posters, editorial shoots, advertising campaigns and being part of a Fashion Week team.

For nail professionals that want to explore their own creative avenue, it’s a great way to challenge themselves, and they get to see what ideas and innovations are being used around the world by other techs. They also get to network and can grow their salon business by marketing the fact they are competing. A medal can help them enhance their menu and raise their prices.

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

DIVISIONS Division 1 – Novice (no educators) Students and professional nail technicians that have never participated in any recognised nail competition anywhere in the world. (No educators/trainers to enter this category.)

NB: Nailympia will accept entrants in Division 1 providing they have not entered more than two national nail competitions in the preceding 12 months before entering any Nailympia.

Division 2 – Apprentice (educator entry level) Students and professional nail technicians that have competed, but never won a recognised competition anywhere in the world, however have placed up to 2nd position. All educators must use this as entry level unless they enter the masters – Division 3.

Division 3 – Master Any competitor that has won a world title, placed first in a recognised nail competition of any type, or is ranked as a Top Competitor.

CATEGORIES

Each location chooses the most relevant categories for its nail culture. These will include qualifying competitions for trophies and take into account whether it’s a two or three-day Nailympia event.

Some of the competitions are hosted live at the arena, some are hand-in at the event, and others are offline email photo entries.

Visit www.nailympia.com to view each location’s individual schedule, requirements and rules.

MEET THE HOSTS Meet the Nailympia hosts & their locations across the globe…

Alex Fox

Nailympia London, Nailympia Orlando & Nailympia Columbus “I have been running nail competitions since January 2003 and have found them to be an incredible source of energy. I’ve loved watching people come into this industry, begin competing and then grow and become champions. I’ve also then worked alongside them in their next role as a judge.

“I’ve met incredible people and loved every moment of building the Nailympia competition brand into the beast that it is today. I’m thrilled that it holds its head up high on the global stage and is loved and respected all over the world. It’s my passion and delight to provide this platform to the nail world and to watch those who participate get such rewards from it.”

Stefanie Lore

Nailympia Germany “Nailympia’s concept always served me well, back when I was a competitor. After many national championships, I dared to register for London and not only did I get to know many new colleagues, but I was able to learn a lot as a nail designer through discussions and observation. The more I participated, the better my performance became. Being judged by so many experts at an international level gave me new motivation to keep training to attain more points at the next competition.”

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Dafne Fernández

Nailympia Mexico & Nailympia Brazil “Competitions are necessary in order to build and grow as a nail professional. This activity sets high standards and challenges that a competitor must work through in order to participate. As each element of competition tests the tech, abilities are realised and then stretched, skills and creativity are raised, and the nail professional finds their purpose as success is enjoyed.”

Hemi Park

Nailympia Anaheim & Nailympia San Antonio “My first competition experience changed my entire career path. When I got my licence, I had no one around me; no friends, no mentors and no further education opportunities.

I flew myself to a small education event where I submitted my very first nail art entry, and I came home with a medal and lists of friends and mentors. That hype continued through other competitions, which I see as a form of continued education. They have pushed my personal limits, given so much motivation and courage, and widened my perspective and network.

“I want everyone to feel and breathe the high energy of the competition arena and experience personal and professional growth. The walls of nail competitions felt so high when I first started competing, so I want to be a welcoming hand to those willing to try it.

I want nail brands to recognise the high standard of competitors we see, so we can reform into a truly professional-driven industry.”

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

THE GLOBAL CHAMPIONS

Meet the four winners of the Nailympia Global Cup, 2017-2022…

2017 MADELENE WOLF – Sweden “Believe in yourself! It’s OK if you don’t place. Find out where your skills were lacking and work on that aspect until the next competition. From that stance, you can only get better. Do not see the other people in the competition arena as enemies; they are your friends!”

Madelene Wolf Naildesign @madelenewolf_naildesign www.madelenewolf.com

2018

TROPHY CRITERIA

• Nailympia Global Cup The global winner is calculated by the scores from Stiletto, L&P Acrylic Sculpture & Gel Tip & Overlay; three highly technical and challenging competitions undertaken in all active locations.

This trophy is awarded in London.

• Nailympia European Cup The European winner is calculated by scores taken from Stiletto, Joy of Nails, Salon Nails & Reality Nails. The active locations for this cup are Germany and the UK. It is awarded in London.

• Nailympia Premiere Cup *NEW for 2023!

Competitors must compete at three of the four USA locations. This winner is calculated by scores taken from L&P Acrylic Sculpture, Joy of Nails, Salon Nails, Mixed Media & Reality Nails.

• The Americas Cup *NEW for 2023!

Competitors must enter Nailympia Mexico or Nailympia Brazil and one Premiere location during 2023. The Americas winner is calculated by scores taken from Stiletto, Joy Of Nails, Salon Nails & Reality Nails.

• Individual Top Scorer Competitors must enter three or more categories to qualify. Gel Polish Manicure, Runway Nails & Photographic are not included.

• Winner of Winners There is one Winner of Winners per division, per location. The three highest scores from qualifying competitions are entered and tallied. Scores from Runway Nails, Dip System, Gel Polish Manicure, Fantasy Complete Look, Mixed Media Boxed Art, Reality Nails & Photographic are not included.

• Art Winner of Winners This winner must have won one of the qualifying competitions to enter, and entered at least two; Runway Nails, The Joy of Nails, Reality Nails, Mixed Media Boxed Art & Fantasy Complete.

• Top Country Tech (optional) You must be a citizen, resident or working in the location to qualify for this trophy. Qualifying competitions are L&P Acrylic Tip & Overlay, UV/LED Tip & Overlay, L&P Sculpture, UV/LED Gel Sculpture, Salon Nails, Fantasy Complete Look, Mixed Media, Stiletto Nails & The Joy of Nails.

• Team Trophy (optional) A team is made up of 3-6 people. At every relevant competition, the team’s three highest scores are taken (not per competitor across the competitions). Not included are Gel Polish Manicure, Runway Nails, Reality Nails & Photographic scores.

LENA KURACH – Poland “Competing, and most importantly winning, has helped me prove to my students that they learn from the best and thanks to their trust, they’ve become leaders and award-winning competitors themselves. Since my victories, my students are mainly nail educators who desire to improve their skills. My achievements, and success in preparing other stylists for their own career and competitions, has given me so much confidence that I’ve created my own brand, Better Nails, and my own product line, Q by Better Nails.” /lena.kurach @qbetternails.pl www.qbetternails.pl

2019 JOANNA BANDURSKA – Poland “I take part in international nail styling championships as often as possible. I enter to prove to myself that I’m in the right place, and to show that anything and everything is possible if you want it badly enough. Thanks to my achievements, I feel sensational in my role as an educator and am able to teach students how to style nails correctly, from the basics right up to advanced skills, and prepare them for international championships. My goal is continuous development and mentoring the next pearls and masters in the fabulous world of nail styling.” /indigobyjoannabandurska @joanna_bandurska www.bandurska.com

2022 OLENA ÖEZMAN – Germany “I invest a lot of time and effort in upgrading my skills, and I feel my mission is now to help others be better and benefit from my knowledge. My experiences of salon work, as a competitor and educator, have helped me to make an innovative learning programme. I understand that to teach takes more than just an ability to make nice nails. It is a responsibility and dedication – it is the intention of giving all you know to make someone’s way to success easier and better!” /olenaoezman.nailacademy @olena_oezman www.nailacademy-online.com

For more information about Nailympia and competing, visit www.nailympia.com /Nailympia @nailympiacompetitions SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 93

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

We

CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

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kimnails

We’ve spotted nail pros matching finger fashions to floral blossoms with rose-coloured finishes. Ideal for a subtle spring/summer look, check out our pick of styles from across social media…

TALON-TED TRIBUTES

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Nail stylist, @nailsbydiem, created a futuristic nail look for Kim Kardashian, for the photo shoot celebrating her Skims swim collection. The nail tech used Candy Coat shades, Au Naturel and Maisie, to create the look.

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Rapper, A$AP Rocky, who has been dating singer, Rihanna, since 2020, was in the audience cheering her on during her Oscars performance. He paid homage to her Best Original Song nomination with a hand-painted nail design by Kim Truong (@kimkimnails), featuring dollar bills, the American flag and an Oscar.

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CELEB MANI SPOT!

NYC-based nail artist, Mei Kawajiri (aka @nailsbymei), tended to the nails of hair stylist and Queer Eye star, Jonathan Van Ness. She created an alternative French style featuring tips in various pastel shades, and shared a selfie on Instagram with the TV personality, commenting that seeing Jonathan makes her happy.

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SCRATCHMEDIA

ALL ABOUT THE AMERICAN MANICURE

We’ve all heard of the classic French manicure, but what is the American manicure? The look negates a curved smile line, instead showcasing a straight line between pink and white, which is then blended for an ombré effect. It’s ideal for clients who seek a twist on the traditional French that maintains a natural look.

BACKSTREET BOY MANI

Backstreet Boy and founder of Ava Dean nail polish, AJ McLean, took to Instagram ahead of the band’s concert in Singapore to show off a striking hot pink manicure.

Let’s go to the Oscars!

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American actress, Laverne Cox, stunned in a blue gown with a nail look to complement. Nail artist, Eri Ishizu, used Après Nail Gel-X Sculpted Stiletto Tips in Medium, topped with Après Nail Gel Polish in Forgotten Film No.3 and Lagoon Five.228 at the tip.

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The 95th Academy Awards (the ‘Oscars’) saw celebrities don glamorous attire and flock to the Dolby Theatre at Ovation Hollywood, to honour films released in 2022. Here are some of our favourite nail looks from the Champagne-coloured carpet…

Best Actress nominee, Michelle Williams, sported Chanel’s Ballerina shade with a silver micro-French tip, courtesy of celebrity manicurist, Tom Bachik.

Jessica Chastain Jessica Chastain, who presented the Best Actor award to Brendan Fraser for The Whale, wore The GelBottle Inc’s Builder In A Bottle #018 with TGB shades, Jet Black Dawn Sterling (aka and Vogue. Celebrity nail artist @nailglam) tended to & educator, Julie Kandalec, the nails of Don’t Worry created the Darling actress, Florence nail look Pugh, creating an and used ombré look with TGB Extreme glittering embellishments.

Shine Top Coat and TGB cuticle The GelBottle Inc Builder In oil to finish.

A Bottle #018 £16.99 + VAT

Florence Pugh

www.thegelbottle.com

The GelBottle Inc in Jet Black £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97

NAILDESIGNS

US nail stylist, @_nailsxnycole, showcases a liquid metal and negative space design on Aprés Nail Medium Stiletto Gel-X Extensions.

Liquid silver styling spills across these nail tips, created by Welsh nail artist, @nailsbylucygreenman.

Nail tips get a molten makeover, courtesy of @evieglows using TGB’s BIAB #19 and HONA’s Silver Chrome pigment.

Fingernails in Embrace the molten metal effect with 3D styles & cool chrome nail finishes…

Focus

This stand-out style by @kouturenails showcases French-style tips in textured liquid chrome.

Warwickshire tech, @llmnailsandbeauty, adds colour to a chrome design, creating a shimmering look on short nails.

Dripping chrome details feature on these stilettoshaped enhancements by @aleens_nail_studio, making for an eye-catching finish.

Danish pro, @nailsbymasha_, uses CND PlexiGelTM over natural nails, topped with a Clear PlexiGelTM, Black Shellac™ and chrome powder mix.

@hernailz_ turns up the heat with an edgy, textured molten metal style on long, square-shaped nails.

Full cover chrome with molten-style swirls make up this striking nail look by south east London pro, @nailss.by.caro.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Nailympia London has moved to ExCel London on 15-16 October 2023!

REGISTRATION IS NOW OPEN!

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See Nailympia in 2023 at...

Nailympia ®

COMPETITION

GERMANY 2023

2 - 3 April 2023 | Anaheim CA

31 Mar - 2 Apr 2023 | Beauty Düsseldorf

5-6 June 2023 | Premiere Orlando

1 - 2 October 2023 | San Antonio TX

8 - 9 October 2023 | Columbus OH

15 - 16 October 2023 | ExCel London

In association with @nailympiacompetitions

@nailympia

@nailympia