Hebridean Winter by Scott Mackenzie

Hebridean Winter

By Scott MacKenzie

Photo: Scott MacKenzie

“The winter months on An t-Eilean Sgitheanach, or, the Isle of Skye as many will know it, offer the visitor an island usually shrouded in mist which gives the isle its other descriptive name of Eilean a’ Cheò, the Isle of mist. Low light, and muted colours often give the winter photographer a sense of a primeval landscape should they find themselves in remote glen or corrie. To those of us that live and are part of the management of this environment, this is just another winter to prepare for and work through. My role here at Fearann Eilean Iarmain will see me working my way through our annual hind cull, often with guests who are keen to experience stalking one of Scotland’s most iconic animals during one of the most challenging times of year. Damp, chilly, mountain top blasts of freshness filling your lungs, it was those wintry days on Skye that drew me in. I arrived on Skye some fourteen years ago with my wife, Michelle, and our first-born Ciara, barely three years old. I have been the Head Gamekeeper Stalker at Fearann Eilean Iarmain for ten of those fourteen years and over that time our family has grown adding another three girls to our brood, twins Ishbel & Orla and Meusaidh, our youngest. Our girls, along with Michelle, have all been very much involved in my work: from making packed lunches for stalking guests to dragging a beast off the hill, it is a normal life for them. Reminiscing back to a time of unsteady legs clothed in an all-in-one rain suit with Peppa Pig wellington boots washing down the dog kennels to talking them through their first greallach of a beast we had stalked together, in my thirty years in Gamekeeping, these are my fondest memories of my family growing up on Skye. The Estate of Fearann Eilean Iarmain extends through Sleat and Strath, a particularly beautiful region of south Skye. Historically forming part of the fiefdom of the Lord of the Isles, Fearann Eilean Iarmain “the lands of Diarmaids isle” was acquired by Sir Iain Noble more than forty-five years ago. Sir Iain’s pioneering initiatives in restoring the ancient woodland habitat of Sleat led to the estate establishing one of the first long-term programs of native woodland regeneration in Scotland. Now Lucilla, Lady Noble, is committed to continuing Sir Iain’s legacy in the careful management of the environment to ensure the future sustainability of this unique part of Skye for future generations.

Photo : Stewart Dawber

The estate, like much of Skye, is steeped in history and folklore, from the old man of Storr in the North, a series of rock stacks said to be the fingers of a buried giant, to the Kelpie (water horse) of Loch nan Dubhrachan who had a “penchant” for children and pretty young maidens. During the winter months, sitting on the high slopes glassing the hillsides for hinds often makes me wonder who before me may of lain in this same spot brooding over there approach to a group of deer, the ancestors to the ones I’m watching right now? It stirs the mind to the stories of Fingal, an Ossianic warrior of the Fèinne. It is said Fingal made a visit to Skye and conducted a great deer drive which took place in Strath in the south part of the island, and at which six thousand deer were slain. The venison from these beasts would be cooked in a great cauldron sat upon three large standing stones, two of which are still standing near the township of Kensalyre further north. Six thousand deer! I can just imagine the look of horror on the faces of those Scottish government agencies who create deer legislation in Scotland. Scotland’s deer are facing challenging times just now and misconceptions as to how we manage our deer are often rife in the consciousness of Scotland’s general public.

This has always motivated me to think up new ventures to create an income stream for the estate and establish an educational aspect for our visitors hosted by those who are a part of its environmental management. In 2019, I came up with the simulated stalking experience. The concept is simple, six stalks set in the same landscape as the real thing, the only difference, our quarry is made of Hardox 500 steel. As part of the many outdoor activities Fearann Eilean Iarmain offers, the simulated stalking is promoted to those who have not hunted or fired a rifle before, many of these are our guests from the estate’s two Hotels, Hotel Eilean Iarmain and The Inn @ Àird a’ Bhàsair. Each stalk is designed to give a different challenge, downhill shooting, ethical safe shots, and distance. The setup replicates the same challenges you face in a real deer stalking situation. It offers the opportunity to discuss traditional deer management between stalks with your guests and challenge pre-conceived ideas they may have had about the role of a traditional deer manager and the work involved in keeping Scotland’s deer on the hill for all future generations to enjoy. The winter is often described as the “lean months”, but on Skye we are able to have a bountiful harvest of winter Woodcock. Thousands of migrating Woodcock visit the west coast of Scotland and the Hebridean islands off it, usually traveling on the light of a November full moon they hail from Russia and Scandinavia staying on Skye for a time before heading further west or heading further down the west coast. A Fearann Eilean Iarmain walked-up woodcock day will see a gang of excited dogs gracing the beating line, from Wirehaired Pointers to the ginger blur of a Cocker Spaniel dancing through the thick stunted Hebridean Downy Birch cover. Shouts of “LEFT”, “RIGHT” draws one’s attention only to hear the familiar sound of wing feathers breaking through that thick birch cover in the opposite direction. That familiar sound serves to sharpen the mind and filter out the alien sound of distant gun fire and the piercing blasts of a dog whistle. Mind focused you continue, suddenly, and still very much taken by surprise, Coileach-Coille breaks cover. You shoulder your gun, you pick up on your quarry, the clay shooting instructors words running through your mind from the refresher day at the local clay ground, you swing through, you fire! The head of a Cocker spaniel pops up from the now fallen throngs of the golden bracken and looks on in the direction of your shot. Both man and dog watch in awe as this, the most ultimate of game birds, continues its journey through the backdrop of the Hebridean landscape. Such is the challenge of walked up woodcock shooting. Our emphasis is on the experience of the day, the magnificence of the Hebridean scenery, the hot venison casserole lunch served in our Bothy and the challenge of the sport, not the size of the bag. A good dram from our very own Gaelic whiskies sat aside a roaring fire in the gun room is a befitting end to a day in pursuit to this, the most charming of sporting birds.” Visit: scottmackenzie-skyegamekeeper.co.uk

Photo: James Sherlock

Creative Countryside

By Jade Cruickshank

“On this dreich evening I find myself pondering the journey life has taken me on so far. Growing up in the city in an urban centric family, I wasn’t exposed to much of the countryside and what it had to offer. The only glimpses I had were family trips to areas in Royal Deeside where beautiful scenic routes often led us to pockets of untamed wilderness with an abundance of wildlife and thought-provoking adventure. The thrill of these new experiences never left me and there was always an urge to be in that environment. After meeting my husband at a young age, we soon bought and moved into a beautiful little cottage (a doer-upper) it was perfect, then along came our two children. It wasn’t until shortly after our second child was born that we decided to sell up and buy a bigger home as it was rather cramped with two children and two (Newfoundland) dogs. We found the perfect home nestled on the edge of the Cairngorms National Park with the very underappreciated River Don only a stone’s throw away. We are surrounded by productive farmland, well-managed grouse moors and pockets of natural forest. By this point, my husband had a passion for country sports and with our new and ever-growing network, that only intensified.

I found myself intrigued by the stories he brought home. We found our feet (and technique) with the clay shooters, then the game scene beckoned us. After I had a few walkedup and driven game shoots under my belt it was time for me to explore the stalking world (hubby hadn’t done it yet so I would have one up on him). I had arranged for my first stalk on Findrack Estate in Aberdeenshire, and it was there I harvested my first roe deer, and what a day of education it was for me. Happenstance led me to an encounter with the estate’s Head Gardener. As a green fingered girl myself (after acquiring an interest through necessity whilst developing our first cottage garden) the connection was made and the offer of ad hoc gardening work on the estate was happily accepted. I have been able to gain practical skills and build confidence in areas I never imagined: operating light tractors and reversing trailers with aplomb (even if I do say so myself) and various other machinery. Never one to be afraid of maintaining my curves I used to share my home bake creations with the team at Findrack. This led to an invitation to develop and make my own the new role of Head of Hospitality on this burgeoning estate. I still very much enjoy and continue my gardening duties regularly but that is of course the Head Gardener’s raison d’etre. Having the free reign to make the hospitality my own allowed me to channel my creative energy. The estate owner, along with the rest of the team, has been incredibly supportive and encouraging. The synergy between the two roles ensures I can harvest and use what we grow – literally estate to plate. From the selection of fruit and vegetables to the abundance of game meat, it’s a cook’s dream and gives the Findrack team an opportunity to present some of their best produce to local and international guests. Having the opportunity to see the full life cycle and growing some of it myself from seed to occasionally harvesting some of the meat, and often butchering it too, is most rewarding. The role is varied - gardener, butcher, cook, general facilitator. I have also had the opportunity to unleash my artistic side. In the background around three or four years ago, I developed a habit of doodling to give myself headspace. After randomly sketching a hare with my daughter’s school pencil, it caught my husband’s attention. One thing led to another and I took on my first commission. The outcome of that, inspired by my surroundings, I created a small collection of wildlife prints. I was invited to retail these through a local gallery (Country Frames Gallery), and my portfolio was displayed to shooting guests. I was asked to create the ‘Findrack Pheasant’ which Findrack Sporting now use on the cover of the game cards and the framed original adorns the guest cottage. I had a home in the countryside, a position and creative licence on a sporting estate and a husband who encouraged every avenue I wished to explore, a very different destination to what I had originally envisaged for myself. I have grown significantly as a person and have never looked back.

I enjoy long walks with the family, and one of my favourite places in Scotland is Glen Earnan. It has an interesting history and a possible but distant family connection. The poignant story of Margaret Cruickshank – ‘Lass o’ the Lecht.’ A servant from a house at the foot of the Lecht at Allargue, she perished in a blizzard in February of 1860 at only 18 years of age whilst returning from a visit to Tomintoul. There is still a Cairn (completely unmarked sadly) on the banks of the River Earnan (Earnan Water) near Edinglassie, Strathdon, that marks the spot where her body was found months later when the thaw came. Tragically, she was almost home but having a choice of two small rivers to follow, one of which she knew would lead her safely home, in a presumably weakening state she made the wrong choice on that cold, dark and stormy night. She is interred in Corgaff cemetery. It’s one of those lost Glens where not much has changed since The Clearances. There is an energy in Glen Earnan, and I often ponder the undiscovered places where I may be able to make a connection to the landscape, its story and the signs of lives once lived. My most recent visit was in Autumn as I find that is often the best time to experience the surroundings given nature’s gradual transition to a slower pace. It appears to help making a link from the modern pace of life back to the past. After a long week as a Mum, wearing my work hats and having family adventures in the glens, I find it cathartic coming home to a bowl of homemade, home grown, tattie and leek soup. Sometimes the simple things are all you need.” Visit: www.findracksporting.com

Argyll & Bute Clay Company

Joe Croot along with Andy McMaster’s Family (from Argyll Vintners) have joined forces to bring the ultimate clay pigeon shooting experience using superior Huntmans equipment.

Clay pigeon shooting coaching

We provide a range of options from individual shotgun training sessions for the novice through to coaching sessions for the experienced gun.

Simulated clay days

Our simulated clay days are a great way to get your eye in ready for the game season or experience a similar day without the expense of a game day. Clay days are fantastic for team building work events or for hen/stag parties. We can host you at our group accommodation property Rosscairn in Dunoon, which can sleep up to 22 people. We regularly host days from two sites in Argyll, Glen Strivern Estate & the prestigious Drimsynie Estate with Argyll Holidays.

ARGYLL & BUTE • • CLAY C OMPANY

Fully mobile - we’ll come to you

Our equipment is completely mobile so can even bring our events to your property, a great way to raise money for charities.

Contact us www.crootscountrystore.com

Croot’s country store

As a Family owned business, Joe & Susie Croot have been serving Dunoon, and Argyll & Bute for a several years through their gun shop ‘The Armoury’.

“We have recently expanded The Armoury into Croot’s Country Store Dunoon, and are based at The Holy Loch Marina. Croot’s Country Store will enhance the local communities shopping experience by providing everyone a place to visit and shop. You can depend on us for a friendly and personal service. We field test all the products we sell and can give you honest advice about them.”

Opening Hours

7 days of the week, from 10am - 2pm with ample free parking at the Holy Loch Marina.

Whether you are looking for clothing, wellies, pet supplies, country products and gifts, call in today Holy loch Marina, Sandbank, Dunoon PA23 8FE

Contact us www.crootscountrystore.com

By Andrew Dunn

“Scotland has something for everyone, at all times of year”

“I love to travel around Scotland. It’s a love that started as a child. I was fortunate that my parents had a car when I was growing up, and they had a passion for Scottish History. We would often jump into the car of a weekend, the cassette tape would go on, and off we would go on our adventures. Willie Nelson was a favourite of my Dad’s. ‘On the road again, going places that I’ve never been, seeing things that I may never see again, and I can’t wait to get on the road again.’ How appropriate, and how fitting that memory feels now. Those places that we’d never been to previously would include the historic and iconic buildings in our beautiful towns and cities; Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle, Dunfermline Abbey, Arbroath Abbey, Bannockburn, Glasgow Cathedral, Linlithgow Palace, Holyrood Palace……… The list goes on. Yes, I’ve seen them all again, and again, and again, but I still get excited when I jump in the car with my own family and travel to places in Scotland that I’ve never been before. Of course, now we have mobile phones and tablets, and other hi-tech distractions in the car (no cassette players though!). Of course, with children there is the inevitable ‘are we there yet.’ To which I nostalgically reply, ‘just look out the window, enjoy the scenery and we’ll get there when we get there.’ I used to love sitting in the car, looking out the window, admiring the scenery and watching the world go by. Seeing things that I may never see again. And the scenery in Scotland still never ceases to take my breath away. From the beauty of the rolling hills in the Borders, to the lush woodlands of the Trossachs, to the remote, rugged and hostile landscapes of Sutherland, to the awesome beauty of Glencoe, and the ancient golf courses of Fife, every corner you turn reveals something ever more beautiful, ever more spectacular, ever more stunning. Look closely enough and you might spot a red stag, a golden eagle, the occasional dolphin, or even a monster, nestling amongst the beauty. Recently, I’ve boarded the ferry to the mystical, spiritual island of Iona, and flown from Glasgow to land on the stunning airport beach in Barra. A trip to the Hebrides is a must when exploring Scotland, our own remote island heaven of white beaches and clear blue waters. Most of my time at work is spent in my office in Glasgow, but my job takes me to see customers all over Scotland, during all seasons. I enjoy going to meet people in cities, towns and remote areas alike. How fortuitous that travelling for work can still feel like an adventure and gives me the freedom and the opportunity to experience new places. Scotland has something for everyone, at all times of year, and it is the most wonderful, beautiful, natural playground. The greatest of great outdoors, sitting on our doorstep and waiting to be explored.” Andrew Dunn is the Sales Manager, Scotland & North England, Stephens and George Print Group - Printers of Scotland in Four Seasons Magazine.