Discover Scotland Issue 52

Marking 275 years after Culloden

Cooking Scotland’s other national dish

Big attractions of the wee county

Keeping folklore traditions alive

Lifting the curtain on theatrical history

Myth and legend of Loch Assynt p1

April 2021

This month’s Discover Scotland multimedia magazine has been brought to you by: Sponsors In memory of Francis Kelbie (1933 - 2021) Loch Lomond Seaplanes Turin Castle Wendy Kinnear Stewart Adams David Matthews

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Click Here Photos by Vinny Keenan

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Keep the flag flying As Covid-19 continues to seriously impact Scotland’s vital tourism sector this magazine is doing its best to help those businesses hit hardest by a downfall in visitors.

Our monthly, multi-media digital magazine, with readers in more than 120 countries, has always been, and will continue to be, FREE to read and share.

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Donate Here Photos by Vinny Keenan

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History

Travel

An hour that changed the world

Seeing the sights of Clackmannanshire

History

Activities

Dunottar Castle and its bloody past

Winter exploration by bike

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Broadcast

Travel

Party the weekend away with Runrig

The beauty of Loch Assynt

History

Travel

Honouring African American freedom campaigners

Dark attractions of Tomnahurich

Broadcast

History

Scotland’s real life mermaid

Righting a wrong of empire

Supernatural

Shop

A tale of fairies and magic

Showcasing talent from the Isles

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History

Environment

Saving a piece of history for the nation

Conserving iconic species

Folklore

Property

Charitable aims to preserve Scottish folklore

Suggestions for an ideal home

Contributors

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An actor’s life for me…

Scott Kyle lifts the curtain on a theatrical icon

Skailg: A wee livener with…

Tom Morton on the perils of bad whisky

Chef in a kilt…

Gordon Howe on the creation of Scotland’s national soup

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Musical Discoveries Tom Morton presents some more Scottish musical talent

Highland hospitality with… Hunting antiques with…

Jo de Sylva on a return to Roo Irvine on the trail of ‘normal’ dragons

Cover image: Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Port Appin and Loch Linnhe

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Contacts General Enquiries info@discoverscotlandmagazine.com Discover Scotland is an independent magazine published by Discover Scotland Ltd. The monthly digital title provides an international audience of readers with comprehensive coverage of modern day Scotland, its people, achievements, culture, history and customs.

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History

ixty minutes that changed history

T

he ghosts of Culloden cast a long shadow. Down through the centuries and across the world the harrowing events of 16 April, 1746 still reverberate in the residual memory and communities of many Scots and their descendants.

Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Culloden battlefield

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Among set piece European battles of the time, the final stand of Prince Charles Edward Stuart’s Jacobite army on the outskirts of Inverness, was hardly epic. It was all over in less than 60 minutes.

It was the bloody aftermath and systematic attempt to destroy the Highland way of life, Gaelic

culture and the spirit of a people that has left such a bitter taste.

The short, but incredible brutal battle took place on the boggy moorland of Drummossie about two miles from the Highland capital of Inverness.

Bonnie Prince Charlie by John Pettie Photo Royal Collection Trust PD-Art

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The Jacobite army took to the field seriously under strength and outnumbered. Exhausted and hungry, after an abandoned attempt to launch a night attack on the sleeping government troops, they were in no condition

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to take part in a pitched battle against a larger, better equipped and rested modern army.

However, despite disagreements between leading Jacobite leaders as to the best place to stand their

ground, the battle began about 1pm with an opening salvo from the Jacobite cannon.

Almost immediately the bigger government artillery returned fire, causing severe damage to

the lines of Jacobite infantry awaiting the order to advance.

Previous battles, such as Falkirk, had demonstrated the power of a fearsome Highland charge but this time the well-trained government troops were ready for it.

The Battle of Culloden by David Morier, 1746 Photo Royal Collection Trust PD-Art

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As the British artillery switched to canister shot, peppering the advancing Jacobites with lethal shrapnel to decimate their ranks, the redcoats stood their ground and repelled the Highlanders with successive volleys of musket fire and the point of a bayonet.

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Neither side showed any mercy and the hand-to-hand fighting was bloody in the extreme.

Little more than 40 minutes after the first shots had been fired the battle was lost and the surviving Highlanders fled the

field. Witnesses to the slaughter described the moor as being awash with blood. Around 2,000 Jacobites had been killed or wounded compared to around 200 government troops.

Any rebels left injured on the battlefield were denied medical treatment. Instead, they were clubbed, bayoneted or shot dead on the spot and left unburied while British cavalry hunted down and killed those who had fled to the hills.

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland A gravestone listing members of clans MacGillvray, Maclean, Maclachlan and The Atholl Highlanders who fell at the Battle of Culloden

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For days afterwards the Government forces, consisting of both Scots and English troops, hunted down rebels and anyone else they suspected of being Jacobite sympathisers. Innocent civilians were murdered without compassion. Men were shot or

Rebel Hunting after Culloden by John Seymour Lucas National Gallery PD-Art

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hanged in the streets of Inverness, women were raped and children slaughtered.

Anyone, whether they had taken part in the rebellion or not, were killed for just wearing Highland dress and people were

flogged for speaking Gaelic. A few “lucky” survivors were taken prisoner and sent to London but their treatment was no better.

Conditions on one prison ship were so bad that when it reached its destination just 49 out of 157

prisoners on board were left alive.

Others, who somehow managed to survive imprisonment were transported to the West Indies and other British colonies as slave labour.

Photo by Chris Light CC BY-SA 4.0 Culloden display at the Frazier History Museum, Louisville, KY

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The Duke of Cumberland, who was feted as a hero by the British establishment, claimed his savage reprisals were justified because the rebels had issued an order shortly before the battle that ‘no quarter’ should be given by the Jacobites to the government troops. Subsequent research has suggested no such order was issued and written documents claiming to back up Cumberland’s claims were forgeries.

Duke of Cumberland by Joshua Reynolds PD-Art

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Throughout the Highlands the traditional way of life was systematically oppressed. Clan chiefs, who had supported the Jacobites, had their properties confiscated and their tenants were forced from the land.

In 1746 the Act of Proscription made it illegal for Highlanders to own weapons, dress in Highland clothes, play the bagpipes or speak Gaelic. The only exceptions being that soldiers in the British army could still wear the kilt.

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland Visitor Centre at Culloden Battlefield

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The genocidal policy quickly took its toll as thousands of Scots left the country they loved, either voluntarily or under duress, to flee persecution and seek safety in the USA, Canada and elsewhere, taking many of their traditions and stories with them.

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The Battle of Culloden was fought for one hour on one day three centuries ago but the repercussions continue to send ripples through the collective consciousness of a nation and diaspora that stretches around the world.

This year, to mark the 275th anniversary of the battle that impacted Scottish, European and global history, the National Trust for Scotland is commemorating the landmark event with a series of online experiences starting on Saturday 17 April.

Working with historians, archaeologists and local partners, the Gaelic Society of Inverness and XpoNorth, the Trust has created a thought-provoking programme to share the latest research and to promote the protection of the battlefield.

Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Stone marking mass grave of Clan Mackintosh at Culloden

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Between 11am and noon the Gaelic Society of Inverness and the National Trust for Scotland will commemorate the anniversary with an address from the Chief of the Gaelic Society, Martin MacGregor, and a new poem in Gaelic by Maoilios Caimbeul.

Throughout the day, from 11am, a series of online talks will explore the battle, its legacy, the main characters and the continued preservation and protection of the site.

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland Old Leanach Cottage is believed to be the only remaining building from around the time of the battle in 1746.

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Details of all the events and how to book free tickets can be found at https://www.nts.org.uk/ stories/culloden-275

In normal times, free from coronavirus restrictions, Culloden remains one of the most explored historic sites in the country, attracting thousands of people each year from around the world.

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland Jacobite Memorial Cairn at Culloden

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The moor on which the battle was fought has changed little over the years and, for many visitors, it is both a fascinating and melancholy experience.

The purpose built visitor centre, close to the site of the battle,

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provides a detailed explanation of the Jacobite cause, the battle itself and the bloody aftermath.

Visitors can also view the memorial cairn, erected in 1881 to the fallen Jacobites and wander among the headstones that mark

the mass graves of the various Highland clans. There is also the thatched cottage of Leanach.

Although built around 15 years after the battle it stand on the same spot as a previous turfwalled cottage used as a field hospital for wounded government troops.

As new technology develops, such as the latest Lidar (light detection and ranging) analysis equipment, along with fresh academic research, more secrets of the battle are revealed for future generations to better understand what happened that day 275 years ago and its lasting impact on the modern world.

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland Memorial cairn marking the scene of the Battle of Culloden on moorland that has changed little since 1746

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Photo by Guy Phillips

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Travel

Wowed by the Wee County

by Tracey Macintosh

D

espite being Scotland’s smallest county Clackmannanshire offers a great range of activities and sights to explore.

There are numerous golf courses, an impressive network of cycle paths, a trail of Andy Scott sculptures and various independent shops, cafes, restaurants and accommodation options, as well as the retail outlet village, Sterling Mills.

Clackmannanshire also punches well above its weight in the fight to attract visitors. The wee county has a great array of natural sights to enjoy with lots to discover.

Here’s a brief guide to six of the best:

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Dumyat The Ochil hills provide a scenic backdrop to the ‘wee county’.

Comprised of volcanic rock from the Lower Devonian Period, the Ochil hills runs from Firth of Tay to Stirling, providing an amazing scenic backdrop to the ‘wee county’.

Ben Cleugh at 721 metres is the highest of the Ochils, however Dumyat, at 418 metres is a really accessible climb offering great views over the Forth Valley and the nearby National Wallace Monument.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Wallace Monument as seen from Dumyat

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The remains of an ancient Hill Fort can be found on Dumyat’s Western summit. The translation of Dumyat is hill fort (Dun) of the

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Maeatae, the tribe thought to have occupied the fort during the Roman occupation of Britain.

On the eastern summit is a memorial to the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders, the Regiment who were based at

Stirling Castle, which is also clearly visible from the top. A cairn with a beacon on top marks the spot.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Views of the Wallace Monument as seen from Dumyat at the western end of the main range of the Ochil hills

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A children’s adventure book, ‘Light on Dumyat’, was written by Rennie McOwan and published in 1980. The Community centre

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at Menstrie, one of the county’s quaint villages that sit along the foot of Dumyat, has a quote from the book on its outside wall which

looks out to Dumyat: “There in the distance the Ochils lay, greenly, on the horizon. At the far end, the cone-shaped peak

of Dumyat was clear against the sky”. It perfectly describes the view just outside the community centre.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Views of the River Forth as is snakes eastward towards Grangemouth from the summit at Dumyat

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A rewarding two to three hour walk, with some challenging inclines, Dumyat offers fantastic

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views over Clackmannanshire and beyond and can be accessed from Menstrie Glen or Sheriffmuir.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Dumyat beacon and memorials dedicated to the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders

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Gartmorn Dam Part of the area’s rich industrial heritage, Gartmorn Dam is thought to be Scotland’s oldest reservoir and was created in the

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early 18th century to help power the machinery to drain the coal mines of John Erskine, 6th Earl of Mar.

The water power afforded by the dam helped drive Alloa’s industrial development, which also included the famous glassworks

as well as distilling, brewing and spinning, all historically prominent industries in the area.

Photo by Damian Shields / VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire Gartmorn Dam

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Situated between Alloa and Coalsnaughton, Gartmorn Dam is now a country park and nature reserve and - as home

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to a selection wild fowl, both migratory and all year round - it is a site of scientific interest.

There are a number of routes available throughout the area which are well used by walkers, cyclists and horses.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields

Gartmorn Dam is a peaceful retreat

Gartmorn Dam is great for people walking, cycling, horse riding or picnicing

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The main route around the Dam is about three miles and features some carved wooden posts and

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information boards referencing the area’s industrial past.

The former visitor centre is now home to a coffee shop, Dam Good Coffee, offering sit in and take out food and drinks.

Picnic benches and car parking areas make this a visitor friendly experience.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Beautiful countryside surrounds Gartmorn Dam

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Devon Wetlands A second nature reserve in the wee county is the Black Devon Wetlands Reserve, redeveloped

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and managed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB).

The reserve lies south east of Alloa and was previously the site of an aeroplane factory and mine workings.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Black Devon Wetlands nature reserve

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Today the mix of wet and dry grasslands with pools of water attract a variety of wildfowl.

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The RSPB continues to develop the site and has added a board walk, paths and a viewing screen to help visitors view the wildlife

with a minimum of disturbance.

The viewing screen, designed by Civic Architects with Astrid Jaekel, features striking metal work

showing 12 different species of bird that can be found at the site over the course of a year.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields In winter the Black Devon Wetlands nature reserve is home to many different ducks and flocks of songbirds

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A number of walkways and further developments such as a wildflower meadow, a pond dipping platform and additional willow screening, with much of

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the work completed by local volunteers and school groups, has improved the reserve for both visitors and wildlife alike.

The RSPB also run a number of family days and events to engage visitors at the reserve and will continue to develop the site

to provide great views on the growing variety of wildlife in the area.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Black Devon Wetlands nature reserve is ideal for new birdwatchers

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Alva Glen Alva is another of the picturesque villages situated along the foot of the Ochil Hills that are collectively known as ‘The Hillfoots Villages’ due to the spectacular backdrop of the Ochils.

A central feature of the village is Alva Glen, a spectacular gorge with a range of routes and waterfalls to enjoy.

During the industrial expansion of the 19th century, Alva was home to no less than nine different textile mills, all powered by water from the burn within Alva Glen.

Photo by Alan Campbell CC BY-SA 2.5 Alva from the front slope of Myreton Hill

The Alva Glen Heritage Trust, a community organisation set up to restore and regenerate the glen, has helped create a number of safe paths and information boards as well as planting shrubs and trees and removing invasive plant species. The area is now a haven for wildflowers, trees and wildlife.

The lower part of the glen comprises a series of paths within mature woodland while the

Photo by Chris Wimbush CC BY-SA 2.0 Alva Glen

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upper part of the glen leads on to the Ochils and provides more challenging walks with spectacular views down the glen and across to the River Forth.

On one of the main routes up into the lower part of Alva Glen there is a figure of a prehistoric man on a rocky ledge. Alva was once home to a number of rock quarries, as well as mineral and silver mines.

While working in these quarries a local man, James Murdoch, uncovered a pre-historic human skeleton, not far from where the figure now sits. A few days later James was killed by a falling stone slab very close to where the body was found. The tragedy immediately gave birth to a local legend that he had been cursed after disturbing the burial place.

Alva Glen is also home to the Alva Illuminations, a biennial event revived by Alva Glen Heritage Trust which sees the glen illuminated and animated by bright lights and performances for an evening, showing the glen in yet another view.

Photo by Gary Buchan CC BY-SA 2.0 One Of The Alva Glen Waterfalls

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Dollar Glen and Castle Campbell The pretty village of Dollar gives its name to the impressive Dollar

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Glen, another stunning gorge filled with cascading waterfalls.

The National Trust for Scotland own and maintain the glen and have installed a number of

walkways and handrails to allow safe enjoyment of the glen.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Castle Campbell is a forbidding fortress high above Dollar Glen

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Castle Campbell, previously known as Castle Gloom, sits majestically within Dollar Glen.

The Castle’s original tower dates

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from the 15th century and was the first Campbell stronghold in Central Scotland.

John Knox is thought to have preached from Castle Campbell to a large congregation in 1556.

The pulpit that bears his name, a

rocky outcrop overlooking much of the glen, can still be visited today in the grounds of Castle Campbell.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Castle Campbell

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Mary Queen of Scots was also a visitor to the castle when she stayed for three days in January 1563.

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Dollar Glen provides a mix of restful mature woodland and exhilarating views along with

the option to go higher into the Ochils – a great walk complete with heritage and stunning vistas.

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Dollar Glen offers exhilarating walks, deep gorges, cascading waterfalls and an abundance of plants and wildlife

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Japanese Garden On the outskirts of Dollar, the Japanese Garden at Cowden brings an Eastern twist to this beautiful corner of central Scotland.

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Created by intrepid explorer Ella Christie, who was inspired by the Japanese gardens she encountered on one of her many trips, it was designed by female

horticulturist Taki Handa. She was employed by Ella to re-create the peace and tranquility of the

Japanese style gardens in the grounds of Cowden Castle.

Photo by Sara Stewart Japanese garden

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Between 1908 and 1925 the garden matured under the regular supervision of Professor Suzuki,

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a renowned expert in the art of Japanese gardens.

Photo by Sara Stewart

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Professor Suzuki called the garden ‘the best garden in the Western World’ and it was regularly opened to the public.

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When Ella died in 1949 the garden was left in trust for her great nephew. Sadly, after 1955

the garden was no longer opened for visiting and went into decline.

Photo by Sara Stewart

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Since 2014 the garden has been lovingly restored and is once again open to visitors. A stunningly tranquil oriental

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styled space, with the addition of extensive woodland walks, it is a wonderful place to spend a serene hour or two.

Photo by Sara Stewart

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Culture

An actor’s life for me with… Scott Kyle

hadows of the past H

of generations of often hard to please Glaswegians.

The Britannia Panopticon is the world’s oldest surviving music hall.

It is where some of the greatest names of stage and screen from the late 19th and early 20th century honed their craft in front

Every day thousands of people pass by the building at 113-117 Trongate but few ever look up.

If they did, they would see a beautifully ornate facade adorned with cherubs, carved swags and Grecian decorations, providing a tantalising glimpse of the wonders within.

idden in plain sight, on one of the oldest streets in Glasgow above an amusement arcade, lies a magnificent entertainment palace of an age long since past.

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Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0 Inside the Britannia Panopticon Music Hall

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Designed by renowned Glasgow architects Thomas Gildard and Robert MacFarlane the foundations of the imposing granite building, that was to become The Britannia Music Hall, were laid in 1857 and the theatre opened its doors to the public on Christmas Day 1859.

Over the years the lease on the building changed hands several times but perhaps the man who made the biggest impact was entrepreneur and impresario A.E Pickard, a consummate showman in the mould of PT Barnum.

It was he who changed the name to the Britannia Panopticon, a word that derives from the Greek ‘Pan’ meaning “everything” and ‘Opti’ meaning “to see”, and he meant it!

Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0 The facade of the Britannia Music Hall

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Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0

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Pickard added a waxworks on the upper floor and excavated the basement to create an indoor zoo as he extended the Panopticon’s assortment of attractions. At one time, in addition to the regular variety performances, audiences were treated to frequent animal exhibitions, freak shows, amateur

Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0

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nights, boxing matches and other sporting events, a rooftop carnival and even a cinematograph making it one of the first cinema venues in Scotland.

Unfortunately, as musical halls and live theatre venues fell out of fashion the Britannia Panopticon

Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0

closed as an entertainment venue in 1938.

For much of the rest of the 20th century it was used as a warehouse which, in retrospect, has turned out to be a blessing of sorts as much of the original interior has remained intact.

Looking up at the beautifully carved ceiling of the wooden auditorium and the horseshoe balcony, which together with the stalls could have accommodated up to 2,500 people, is like travelling back in time.

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It is fascinating to think of the thousands of entertainers who have performed on this stage. It was here, in 1906, that a nervous 16-year-old Arthur Stanley Jefferson took to the boards in his father’s best suit, cut down to size, and made an audience laugh for the first time. It was a turning point in his life and show business history. He went on to change his name to Stan Laurel and become world famous as one half of the duo Laurel and Hardy.

Stan Laurel, the comic genius who made his debut at the Britannia

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Stan Laurel plaque at the Britannia Music Hall

Other great names to have graced the hallowed hall include a young acrobat called Archie Leach, who went on to become Hollywood heartthrob Cary Grant, and early superstar Sir Harry Lauder.

Lauder become the highest-paid performer in the world with his music hall act dressed as the stereotypical Scotsman in tartan regalia singing “Roamin’ in the Gloamin”, “A Wee Deoch-anDoris”, “I Love a Lassie” and other hits. A shrewd businessman he quickly recognised the potential of the gramophone and became the first person to ever sell a million records.

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The Panopticon was one of many theatres around the country that provided a circuit for touring entertainers and attracted big names such as Dan Leno, Vesta Tilly, Marie Loftus, Walford Bodie and Jack Buchanan.

Dan Leno is probably the most famous English music hall comedian and actor of the late Victorian era. A favourite Dan Leno

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entertainer of Charles Dickens he was best known for his music hall act and pantomime roles as a dame.

Immensely popular during the 1880s and 1890s, he was one of the highest-paid comedians in the world due to his talent for finding fun in life’s most mundane subjects.

Dan Leno as the Railway Guard

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Vesta Tilley as herself (left) and in drag (right)

Vesta Tilly, whose real name was Matilda Powles, was another big star to tread the boards of the Panopticon. She was one of the best-known male impersonators of her age, often dressing as a dandy or fop to perform favourite songs of the day such as ‘Burlingtom Bertie’.

By the 1890s she was England’s highest earning woman and during the 1912 Royal Command Performance embarrassed Queen Mary by wearing trousers on stage.

Song sheet for Burlington Bertie, one of Vesta Tilley’s most popular songs.

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During the First World War she toured the country singing patriotic songs dressed as a soldier to encourage young men in the audience to volunteer for the military. One of her biggest

hits at the time was “We Don’t Want to Lose You but We Think You Ought to Go” and she was credited with being one of the government’s best recruiting ‘sergeants’ .

An early publicity photo for Vesta Tilley

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Another female performer, who was particularly popular among Panopticon audiences, was local girl done good, Marie Loftus.

Born in Glasgow in 1857 she became one of the top music hall stars of the Victorian era in a career that spanned more than 30 years.

Considered a world class entertainer, often billed as “The Marie Loftus in costume around 1897

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Sarah Bernhardt of the Music Halls”, she enjoyed successful tours of the USA and South Africa earning the huge sum of more than £100 a week.

However, she never forgot her roots and did a lot for charitable causes in Glasgow. In 1894, during a stint at the Panopticon, she bought 150 pairs of boots for the poorest children in the city.

Marie Loftus in 1896

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Walford Bodie, the ‘Most Remarkable Man on Earth’

Another act which attracted big crowds was Aberdeen-born Walford Bodie. A flamboyant showman, who billed himself as the ‘Most Remarkable Man on Earth’. He was a hypnotist, ventriloquist and magician.

He would tour the music hall circuit with an ‘electric chair’ which he used to shock members of the audience with static electricity.

Despite appearances to the contrary there was never any danger but it made him one of

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Comedian Harry Champion was a big draw

the highest paid entertainers in the world, and an inspiration for both Harry Houdini and Charlie Chaplin.

Character actor Jack Buchanan, the Helensburgh-born Scot who found fame playing quintessential English gentlemen, also learned some of his stage craft at the Panopticon before finding fame on London’s West End stage and in Hollywood, starring in movies such as ‘The Band Wagon’.

Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0 Britannia timeline

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Today, the Panopticon is so much more than a relic of the past. It is a working museum, paying homage to the entertainment and social history of Glasgow.

Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0

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The Panopticon Trust, a charity set up to conserve the category A-listed building, carries on the theatre tradition with regular variety style performances to

raise money for the ongoing preservation of the theatre and its magnificent legacy.

While many similar buildings have long since been torn down or redeveloped, the 162-year-old

Britannia Panopticon has been left largely untouched. During the conservation work thousands of artefacts have been retrieved from under the seats and among the dust and debris, which paint a picture of life in an era long gone.

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Support

Photo by Keith Edkins CC BY-SA 2.0 The Britannia today

Newspaper clippings, graffiti, early 20th century trade union pamphlets, old tram tickets, cigarette packets, wedding rings made from Victorian copper pennies, turn-of-the-century film posters and hand-bills have all been reclaimed and catalogued.

Many of these items are on permanent display inside the theatre which (in normal times) also has a program of events,

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from silent film showings and comedy nights to old time music hall performances and sing alongs to raise funds.

The Britannia Panopticon is a rare and precious part of Scottish and world show business history.

It is well worth a visit for anyone coming to Glasgow as it deserves all the support it can get https:// www.britanniapanopticon.org/ support

Photo by Stinglehammer CC BY-SA 4.0 The Britannia today is a living museum

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Food & Beverage

Skailg: A wee livener with… Tom Morton

Mouthfuls of regret I

’m not saying that my wife’s home-made wine is bad. I’m just slightly nervous about it. After all, that demijohn had been lurking under a pile of rubbish in the shed for oh, four years. And while the contents were crystal clear, the fermentation lock, or part of it, was black with indescribable fungal toxins.

Nevertheless, I poured some of it into a jam jar. It looked all right. It

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smelled like…well. It didn’t reek of death. So I sipped. Maybe a teaspoonful.

The hangover lasted days.

Who knows what had happened to that liquid? Parsnip or rhubarb originally, it was hard to tell. Now, though. Now it was pleasantly sweet with an astringent edge.

It just laid waste to your entire metabolism.

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“This would be good,” said Susan thoughtfully, “in a punch, at a party.”

“If you wanted the kind of party where the police were called in the first 15 minutes,” I replied. “Sink?”

“Sink,” she replied. and thus the vines treasure of the past was disposed of. Once we’d recovered.

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There are reservoirs, entire lochs of bad whisky out there in the world of comestible spirits.

And sometimes said badness leaks into the glass that’s sitting right in front of you or worse, your guests. Is there anything more embarrassing than - a seal having been cracked on a proudly obtained and rare bottle - a convivial slurping results in grimaces and appalled spitting?

This happened to me a while ago. These days I try to curate my consumption a little more carefully. I was being hospitable to a pal, Fred. There was no confusion, despite the several glasses of wine previously partaken. We were mutually astonished.

“Ooft. That’s a bit rough.” This from Fred.

“Ooft. That’s a bit off.” This from me, violently assaulted by tastes of baby sick (butyric acid, sign of faulty, infected wort, way back at the brewing stage prior to distillation) and the chainsaw edge of a clashing combination of, in this case, malts.

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I’m not going to name the brand. Suffice to say that this was an expensive, limited edition ‘blended malt’ (which would once have been marketed as ‘pure malt’) and I immediately contacted the maker, who agreed to replace the bottle.

Things became somewhat tricker, however, when circumstances led to me tasting the ‘bad’ dram in the company of said company owner, who couldn’t, he said, find anything wrong with it. So we opened another, identical 75cl.

To me, it smelled and tasted the same, bad. To him, it smelled and tasted the same: good.

It’s at times like these that you begin to doubt various things:

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your nose, your tastebuds, your sanity. There had been no other complaints, I was told. It was selling well. I tried again. Awful.

And yet I knew the company and the people who put this together were highly experienced in the industry and I had enjoyed, indeed loved many of the whiskies they’d previous brought to market.

I think there are two important aspects to this. One is that some limited edition whiskies will never be opened, let alone drunk.

They’re aimed at and stored away by collectors, racked, rotated, held to the light and hoarded for investment purposes. I’ve always hated this aspect of the

whisky industry, though it’s evergrowing and of great economic importance to many companies. I believe whiskies are for drinking.

Appreciating, loving, treating with respect and even adulation, yes, but not for just storing away and looking at. There’s a madness there, and not just the lunacy of the obsessive (always male) spirit-miser. Some of those ‘rare’ whiskies you find on auction sites are undoubtedly fake, in that the contents are not those indicated by the label. It’s an easy con, and very few of those £7000 bottles are going to be opened and checked, as removal of the closure will devalue the item enormously.

The other is that while sure, there’s no accounting for personal taste, and for everyone who loves a Lagavulin there will be another who hates it and will die for (but not because of ) a Glenlivet, whisky is alcoholic. Very alcoholic.

Sometimes, in the case of cask strength releases, undrinkable without water, unless you want to dissolve your denture or rip the surface from your palate (and I know people who thrive on that sort of thing). From 40 per cent to almost 60, there is a reason for the alcohol, and this may surprise you: whisky is a potent mood-altering substance, and is designed to be so. In other words, it gets you drunk.

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Or mildly inebriated. Whatever, when it comes to discerning the subtle attributes of a particular expression, whisky cleverly defuses its own qualities. The more you drink over the years, the more experienced you will become at working out what is a good and bad whisky. Maybe. But the more you drink at a session, the less able you will be to tell what’s good or bad. Or indeed, to stand up.

a modern version of Islay Mist for around £30 a bottle, but I haven’t tasted it for years. It is, and always has been promoted as a blend rich in Islay malts, especially Laphroaig. The brand used to be owned by D Johnston, who also owned the Laphroaig distillery on Islay. Bottles from that era, up to the 1970s, can command huge sums - an eight-year-old Islay Mist from 1970 is currently available online for a cool £450.

Best, in other words, to drink what you like. It’s finding out what you’ll like that’s the issue, and this is where pubs come in. However, can you trust a three-quarters empty bottle of whisky that’s been standing behind a bar for a couple of years? That would be an ecumenical matter.

And it was that vintage I spotted. I pointed. “Make it a large one.”

Am I going to recommend a bad whisky to you this month? No. But I will tell you a story. I was out for a drink in a local hostelry which had just changed hands, and I was pursuing the gantry for a decent dram. I noticed that, mounted with an optic and lurking upside down like a threat or a promise, was a bottle of very old (or a very old bottle) of the legendary Islay Mist blend. Now, you can still buy

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I sniffed the glass. It seemed a little…odd. I sipped. It was like being assaulted by a combination of toilet cleaner and Ribena. With a hint of Buckfast.

And in fact, that’s what it could have been. Because it turned out that during valuation of the premises and stock, all the empty or half empty bottles of spirits had been filled up with a mixture of whatever was to hand, and vaguely alcoholic. If my wife’s home made wine had been available, I’m sure it would have been used.

Fortunately for us all, it wasn’t.

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History

omantic ruin with a bloody past

by Scott Aitken

S

at high above the cliffs, overlooking the historic fishing village of Stonehaven and surrounding coastline, Dunnottar Castle has created a sense of wonder and awe for centuries.

The castle, its name derived from the Gaelic Dùn Fhoithear, meaning ‘fort on the shelving slope’, is now largely a ruin but was once a strategically important medieval fortress.

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Many of what remains there today dates from the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries, although there is evidence the site was fortified in the early Middle Ages or before.

The castle is spread over more than three acres and is surrounded by steep cliffs that drop to the North Sea some 160 feet below. Access to the fortress is by an easily defended steep path along a narrow strip of land that joins the headland to the mainland.

Photo by Mariusz Matuszewski CC BY-SA 4.0 Remains of the old smithy at Dunnottar Castle

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Possibly the earliest written reference to the site can be found in the Annals of Ulster

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which record two sieges of “Dún Foither” in 681 and 694.

The Scottish Chronicle also mentions the castle as the spot where King Donald II of Scotland,

the first ruler to be called King of Alba was killed in a battle with Viking raiders in 900.

Photo by B. A. Watson CC BY 2.0 Dunnottar Castle

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Over the years Dunnottar’s role in Scottish history has been both prominent and bloody.

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In 1297, during the Wars of Independence, Scottish troops under the command of William Wallace captured the castle from and occupying garrison.

Photo by Bewahrerderwerte CC BY-SA 4.0

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Unfortunately the Scots were in no mood to take prisoners and when the English barricaded themselves inside the church for

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refuge Wallace ordered his troops to burn it down, with the enemy inside, and destroy the castle.

It was also here that the Scottish Crown jewels, known as the Honours of Scotland, were hidden

from Oliver Cromwell’s invading army in the 17th century.

Photo by Bex-Lemon CC BY-SA 4.0

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During the Wars of the Three Kingdoms William Keith, 7th Earl Marischal, initially supported the Covenanters but later switched Photo by Dirtsc CC BY-SA 4.0

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sides, even leading a troop of royalist cavalry at the Battle of Preston in 1648.

After Charles I was executed Keith was one of a number of loyalists who gave their support to his

exiled son Charles II, who was proclaimed king, when he landed in Scotland in June 1650.

Photo by Bewahrerderwerte CC BY-SA 4.0

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During his brief return to Scotland Charles II is known to have visited Dunnottar in July 1650. His presence in Scotland so incensed Oliver Cromwell that he led an army north.

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The result was the bloody battle of Dunbar which ended in a heavy defeat for the royalist cause and many of the Scots who survived the battle were transported into slavery.

Photo by Dirtsc CC BY-SA 4.0

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With Cromwell’s troops occupying large swathes of the country Scotland’s crown jewels were

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smuggled into Dunottar castle in sacks of wool to keep them from falling into enemy hands.

When the castle was besieged

by Crowmwell’s men the Honours were again moved secretly to another hiding place, just before the garrison was forced

to surrender, after eight months, when the parliamentarians brought up enough artillery to pound the castle into submission.

Photo by Bewahrerderwerte CC BY-SA 4.0

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In 1685 122 men and 45 women Covenanters locked imprisoned in a vault where many died of disease or hunger. Several were

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killed trying to escape and the survivors were transported as slaves to the colonies where most soon died from fever.

Once the proud property of the Keith family they held onto the castle for around 200 years until

the last Earl Marischal forfeited his titles and lands by taking part in the 1715 Jacobite rebellion.

Photo by Mariusz Matuszewski CC BY-SA 4.0

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George Keith, 10th Earl Marischal, took part in the Battle of Sheriffmuir but ultimately lost his lands when the Jacobite cause collapsed. He was forced to

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flee to mainland Europe where he found a new life as French ambassador for Frederick the Great of Prussia.

Over the years successive Scottish monarchs have walked these lands including, James IV in 1504, Mary, Queen of Scots, in 1562 and

1564. James VI stayed for 10 days in 1580. King James came again on 17 April 1589.

Photo by Bewahrerderwerte CC BY-SA 4.0

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The fortress has been used as a garrison, prison, refuge and seat of power by various factions throughout history and borne witness to many decisive moments in Scotland’s colourful past.

Photo by Mariusz Matuszewski CC BY-SA 4.0

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Today, it is a scheduled monument and probably one of the most photographed castles in Scotland. A romantic ruin that teases visitors with secrets of the past and brooding impregnability it is a ‘must-see’ destination for anyone visiting the North-east of Scotland.

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Food & Beverage

Chef in a kilt with… Gordon Howe

Hearty soup with a taste of history I

t is hardly surprising that a country with its own national animal, flower, dish, bard and drink should also have its own soup.

The heart warming, stomach filling, tastebud tingling dish that is Cock-a-leekie is as synonymous with Scotland as whisky and tartan, even though it shares some of its origins with France.

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Initially a French dish made with chicken and onions the soup found its way to Scotland sometime in the late 16th century when the onions were replaced with leeks.

The Auld Alliance on a plate is first mentioned as a written recipe in 1598 although the name Cocka-Leekie was not used until the 18th century.

Photo by Gordon Howe

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Chicken, leeks, carrot, rice or barley and sometimes prunes make up this delicacy which has many variants. A hearty institutional culinary dish packed with flavours and textures full of goodness.

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For this month’s recipe I have removed the rice/barley from my version to make it the little bit lighter and included extra chunky chicken for increased protein. But add a little to suit your own taste, if you wish.

Cock-a-leekie is a perfect soup for this time of the year and beyond and it is so simple to make anyone can try and enjoy.

For those who prefer, there are also vegetarian versions of the soup available, often involving mixed vegetables, chicken flavour substitutes and/or prunes.

Photo by Gordon Howe

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Recipe Serves six. Approximately 910 kcal per portion

Ingredients 1 - 1.2 to 1.4 kg fresh whole chicken 8/9 medium leeks, well-washed, cut to 1 inch chunks 4/5 medium carrots, peeled and grated Salt, to taste Ground black pepper, to taste Small bunch chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

Photo by Gordon Howe

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Photo by Gordon Howe

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Photo by Gordon Howe

Method Wash and prepare the vegetables as per the ingredient list: Put the whole chicken and 1/3 of the chopped leeks in a large pan and cover with cold water.

Replace the pan lid, simmer gently for one hour, until the chicken is falling from the bone.

The time may vary depending on the freshness and size of the chicken.

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Once cooked, remove the pan from the heat, transfer the chicken to a large plate; cover lightly and set aside to cool. Note: refrigerate the chicken if your not finishing making the soup but wait until it has cooled off completely.

Strain the broth into another pan and add the remaining ingredients. After 10 to 15 minutes, add the grated carrots with the rest of the chopped leeks. Continue cooking for 30 minutes uncovered.

Taste the broth and then season to taste (If the soup doesn’t have a strong enough flavour) Reduce the stock, (with lid off) further to your taste.

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Photo by Gordon Howe

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Photo by Gordon Howe

Cut up the whole chicken and then chop or tear some of the meat into pieces.

Portion the chopped chicken into bowls, pour over the broth and

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vegetables, sprinkle with chopped flat leaf parsley.

Serve with some crusty bread or crispy Scottish morning rolls with butter.

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Activities

ce day for a bike ride

by Paul Watson

I

t may seem odd that as we head towards spring and, hopefully, a sunny summer visitors are being encouraged to prepare for a winter adventure in Scotland.

World record breaking cyclists Mark Beaumont and Markus Stitz want to get people on their bikes next time there is snow and ice to experience the joys of winter cycling.

A new movie, Explore Your Boundaries, aims to showcase the joys of cycling in a snow covered wonderland around Scotland’s capital city.

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Photo by Markus Stitz

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Filmed earlier this year on a newly created gravel bike route, which follows the local authority boundary of the City of Edinburgh and additional locations close to the Scottish Capital, the

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short documentary highlights the beauty and challenges of exploring places on two wheels in conditions usually associated with skiing and sledging.

Photo by Markus Stitz

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Markus Stitz, the first person to ride a single-speed bicycle around the world, and Mark Beaumont, the Guinness World

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Record holder for the fastest circumnavigation in 78 days and 14 hours, are both Edinburgh residents.

Photo by Markus Stitz

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Teaming up to film ‘Explore your Boundaries’ was inspired by encouraging people to see familiar and local areas in

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unfamiliar ways, showing how great adventures can happen from your own front door.

“When you ride somewhere in perfect conditions, define that as the summer and the sun is shining, it’s a totally different

thing than the grit and the resolve that it takes to then go there in the depth of winter,” said Mark Beaumont.

Photo by Markus Stitz

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“I often think as a cyclist that there are a number of motivations. People want to do exercise and want to feel healthy,

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but for me there’s also the other side, which is just the sheer experience of exploring places and those memories. And that’s

not necessarily about wellbeing in terms of fitness. As much as I can sit indoors and do circuits or get

your miles in on the turbo, I can’t feed the soul in the same way unless I actually get out and ride.”

Photo by Markus Stitz

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When the second lockdown was announced in Scotland in the end of 2020 the two cyclists created a collection of routes, named ‘Explore your Boundaries’,

ranging from 30 to 315 miles (48 to 505 km), using the boundaries of Scottish local authorities as guidance.

Photo by Markus Stitz

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The idea for the film was born when both rode the Edinburgh city boundary on 2 January, completing 68 miles (110 km) in

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about 10 hours and documenting the journey with stills and video footage.

With Scotland’s Capital mostly covered in snow from Christmas until the mid of February, Markus

used the opportunity to capture the winter landscapes.

Photo by Markus Stitz

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“The last time I remember experiencing that much snow in Edinburgh was in 2010, shortly before I rode from Edinburgh to

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Germany. That journey introduced me to the joys of cycling in winter,” said Markus.

“Since then I love going out there and enjoying the elements, and this winter proved to be a perfect

opportunity for that, and sharing the elation in a new film.”

Photo by Markus Stitz

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While cycling in winter can be at times challenging, for both it is highly rewarding.

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“There’s definitely a kid inside me that loves ending up in quite tricky places and just creating those memories through big night rides, or being out in the snow.

It’s about having fun with that concept of a bike ride, not just

thinking I’m going out to get fit or I’m going out to train. It’s about trying to explore familiar places which are quite close to home, but you’re joining them up. And that’s when the best adventures happen,” said Mark.

Photo by Markus Stitz

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Photo by Markus Stitz

The routes mapped out by the two cyclists are free to download on Bikepacking Scotland’s website.

Watch Here

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www.house-of-art.uk

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Broadcast

Music to quicken the pulse Listen Here

Photo by Mark Lewney CC BY 3.0 Gulf of Corryvreckan

by Scott Aitken

S

trong enough for Cailleach Bheur, the goddess of winter and fiercest of the Highland storm kelpies, to wash her plaid and usher in the change of season from autumn to winter Corryvreckan occupies a special place in Gaelic culture.

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Derived from the Gaelic Coire Bhreacain, meaning cauldron of the speckled seas, the Gulf of Corryvreckan is a narrow strait between the islands of Jura and Scarba where strong currents and a unique underwater landscape conspire to create the third largest whirlpool in the world.

with Tom Morton

Music to accompany reading Discover Scotland www.discoverscotlandmagazine.com 1) Wolfstone - Tall Ships 2) Battlefield Band - The Shipyard Apprentice 3) Waterboys - Church Not Made With Hands 4) Rod Stewart - Superstar 5) Joe McAlinden - 209 6) Teenage Fanclub - The Sun Won’t Shine on Me 7) King Creosote - Something to Believe In 8) Orange Juice - Simply Thrilled Honey 9) Anna Massie - Dad’s Landrover 10) William Jackson - Corryvreckan

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Tides of up to 8.5 knots and waves of up to 30ft in height create a natural phenomenon, the roaring sound of which can be heard up to 10 miles away, that is so dangerous that ships are warned to avoid the area unless they have expert local knowledge.

The currents are so strong only minke whales and porpoises swim in the fast-moving waters and only the most resilient plants and corals thrive on the seabed.

Photo by Walter Baxter CC BY-SA 2.0 The Corryvreckan Whirlpool

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For centuries the waters of Corryvreckan have featured in legend, folklore and history. It was here in 1820 that the world’s first passenger paddleship the PS Comet was lost due to the strong currents and, in 1947, writer

George Orwell almost drowned after being shipwrecked while on holiday in the area. At the time the author was working on his classic novel 1984, the first draft of which he completed three months after his brush with death.

Photo by Doc Searls CC BY-SA 2.0 The Gulf of Corryvreckan

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It is no surprise that numerous stories, poems and songs have been written about the place. The hauntingly stirring Corryvreckan

by Cambuslang born composer William Jackson is just one of the tracks in the latest episode of Musical Discoveries, presented

by Tom Morton exclusively for Discover Scotland magazine.

Photo by Michael Lucan CC-BY 3.0 Battlefield Band

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Photo by Ralf Schulze CC BY 2.0 Wolfstone

Other artists in this month’s show include Wolfstone and Battlefield Band with songs of that reflect on Scotland’s proud industrial past such as Tall Ships and The Shipyard Apprentice, the story of which we revealed in issue 46.

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There are also performances from Waterboys, Rod Stewart, Joe McAlinden, Teenage Fanclub, King Creosote, Orange Juice and Anna Massie.

Photo by Helge Øverås CC BY 2.5 Rod Stewart

Photo by Michig CC BY-SA 3.0 Teenage Fanclub

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Some of the tracks in the show performed by the selected artists can be found on various albums including:

The Producers’ Choice Battlefield Band

Buy

When we were the new boys Rod Stewart

Buy

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With Love From Scotland King Creosote

Buy

Glad Company Anna Massie

Buy

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Broadcast

Celebrating unrig

T

here can hardly be a Scot or friend of Scotland anywhere in the world who hasn’t attended a party or dance where Loch Lomond by the iconic band Runrig has not ended an evening of fantastic entertainment.

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Now, for the first time ever on television, music lovers can watch a full version of ‘The Last Dance’ concert film which captures the band’s own farewell performances at Stirling Castle.

Photo by Andrew King Runrig - The Last Dance

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The show is due to airs on BBC ALBA for the first time this month as part of a special weekend

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of programmes celebrating the talent and achievements of Runrig.

The sell-out gigs in August 2018 were filmed live in front of 50,000 fans by Glasgow based digital

entertainment company Blazing Griffin.

Photo by Andrew King Runrig - The Last Dance

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This exclusive programme on BBC ALBA will show the full three hours of concert which was filmed

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at the iconic and historic location of Stirling Castle.

Formed in 1973 on the Isle of Skye, Runrig’s rise to fame in the 1970’s and 80’s as Scotland’s most

successful folk and rock band culminated in a career spanning 45 years.

Photo by Matt Liengie Runrig, The Story 2016

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They produced 14 studio albums and took Gaelic music from the village halls of the Highlands to arenas across the world including Canada and New York. They held sold-out concerts at some of the world’s most prestigious venues such as New York’s Times Square, London’s Royal Albert Hall and Edinburgh Castle.

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Runrig - The Last Dance also features performances by some other well-known and talented Scottish musical guests including Julie Fowlis, Duncan Chisholm, Laura McGhee, Gary Innes, Dave Towers and the Glasgow Gaelic Islay Choir.

Donnie Munro, Runrig’s lead singer from 1974 to 1997, joins the band on stage during the show much to the delight of fans.

Photo by Andrew King Runrig - The Last Dance

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“It’s the love of performing that kept the group going for over 45 years. Our farewell performance brought all this to a close – a shared, visceral experience that will stay with me forever. In many ways, our bond with the fans

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has been our success and this film illustrates this throughout,” said Runrig founding member Rory Macdonald who lives in Sutherland in the Scottish Highlands.

His brother Calum from RossShire, added: “During these uncertain times it may be hard to feel connected with the communities we love most. We hope that the Runrig community

and our fans will feel a sense of togetherness when they watch our farewell concert on BBC ALBA and that it will help raise the spirits.”

Photo by Andrew King Runrig - The Last Dance

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Runrig -The Last Dance is on BBC ALBA on Saturday, April 3 at 8pm.

“We’re so pleased to see the full three-hour concert film released on BBC ALBA, it’s the perfect platform to reach out to Runrig’s local fans. I was delighted to work on this production, it captures the magic of the band and provides the tribute the band was looking

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to give to their fans. It’s an incredibly uplifting and lively concert film, I just know that Runrig fans are going to love this,” said Steven Little, The Last Dance concert film producer at Blazing Griffin.

Air an Oir, a classic programme from the BBC ALBA archive which looks at the roots of Runrig’s musical influences will also be shown on BBC ALBA on Friday, April 2 at 9pm and an

archive concert Runrig – City of Lights will air on Sunday, April 4 at 9pm. All programmes will also be available on the BBC iPlayer for 30 days after they air.

Photo by Andrew King Runrig - The Last Dance

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“BBC ALBA is delighted to have a weekend of Runrig content to offer our audiences with the jewel in the crown being the full The Final Dance concert,” said Margaret Cameron, Channel Editor at MG ALBA. *Discover Scotland multimedia magazine is an Amazon Associate and therefore earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through relevant links in this article.

Buy

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Travel

Amazing Loch Assynt

by Scott Aitken

L

och Assynt lies in the heart of Sutherland, five miles from Lochinver amid one of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in Scotland, and is shrouded in history, myth and legend.

Sandwiched between the peaks of Canisp, Quinag and Beinn Uidhe this freshwater loch, which covers an area six miles long and a mile wide, has been at the centre of clan politics for centuries.

Renowned for its excellent fishing stocks of trout, sea-trout, and salmon the loch is a major beauty spot attraction for visitors who come to soak in the natural splendour of the area and its fascinating history.

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Photo by VisitScotland / Richard Elliot Assynt Loch Assynt, Ardvreck Castle and Quinag viewed from Inchnadamph

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Located on a small promontory encroaching into the dark waters stands the romantic ruins of Ardvreck Castle, visible from the

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A837 road which follows the North shore of the loch from the village of Inchnadamph.

Built around 1590 by the MacLeods of Assynt, as an imposing show of power and strength, the rectangular keep

used to stand four storeys tall, bristling with gun ports and other formidable defences.

Photo by Paul Hermans CC BY-SA 3.0 Ardvreck Castle

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Notoriously, Ardvreck Castle is where Royalist hero James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose sought refuge after the Battle of Carbisdale in 1650.

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It is said he was welcomed by MacLeod, Laird of Assynt but then betrayed and handed over to the Covenanter forces for a £25,000 reward.

Montrose was subsequently taken to Edinburgh and executed. His body was then dismembered and

put on public display as a warning to others.

Photo by VisitScotland / Kenny Lam Ardvreck Castle on Loch Assynt

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Over the years the occupants of Ardvreck have been forced to defend themselves more than once against rival clans, eventually losing the castle to

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the Mackenzies who attacked and captured the fortress in 1672, gaining control of the surrounding Assynt lands at the same time.

Around half a century later the Mackenzies built a more modern manor house in 1726, a few minutes walk from the castle.

Calda House, which is named after the burn which flows alongside it, was the site of much merriment as the family were renowned for lavish parties, which took a toll on their fortune.

Photo by Paul Hermans CC BY-SA 3.0

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Unfortunately the house was destroyed by fire in 1737 under dubious circumstances. Before the house could be rebuilt the clan lost the land when it

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was confiscated by the British government as punishment for their support of the Jacobite rising in 1745.

The house was later sold to the Earl of Sutherland in 1758 but never rebuilt after a further arson attack in 1760 by the MacRaes damaged it beyond repair.

Like most ruined castles and big houses in Scotland both buildings are said to be haunted.

Photo by Paul Hermans CC BY-SA 3.0 Sheep relaxing by Loch Assynt in the shadow of Ardvreck Castle

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The ghost of woman is said to appear to unsuspecting visitors in the rubble of Calda House while there have also been reports of strange lights coming from the

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building in the middle of the night.

Over at Ardvreck, a mysterious man dressed in grey, thought

to be executed Marquis of Montrose, wanders the castle angry at his betrayal.

The most famous legend to surround the castle involves the spirit of a young girl, the daughter of the clan chief.

Photo by Paul Hermans CC BY-SA 3.0

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It is said that in an attempt to save his lands and power MacLeod promised his daughter, Eimhir, to the devil as a bride. Horrified at

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the thought the poor girl jumped to her death from the top of the castle and drowned in the loch.

Centuries later people claim to have seen a sobbing apparition of a woman walking the beach near the castle. The sound of her wailing is said to fill those who hear it with overwhelming sorrow.

Another version of the story suggests that rather than dying the girl hid in a cave beneath the loch where she transformed into the mermaid of Assynt or a shapeshifting Selkie.

Photo by Little Dwangs CC BY-SA 4.0 Loch Assynt from Inchnadamph

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The devil was apparently so enraged at having lost his promised bride that he tried to obliterate MacLeod’s kingdom by raining down giant rocks from the skies. The resulting barrage of space junk created huge craters and threw up a giant cloud of debris which formed the surrounding mountain peaks.

As with all legends there is a kernel of truth. While the myth

Photo by Vincent PD

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was an excellent way for local people to make sense of the unique features of the landscape, subsequent scientific research has revealed the area was indeed struck by a massive object from space around 1.2 billion years ago. It was so big it would have melted rocks and thrown up an enormous cloud of debris, completely altering the landscape for good.

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History

xamining the struggle for liberty

by Scott Aitken

T

he lifelong fight for social justice by African American freedom fighters, some of whom campaigned in Scotland and across the British isles, is to be celebrated and explored by a new online learning resource.

The National Library of Scotland has launched “Struggles for Liberty: African American Revolutionaries in the Atlantic World” to share the stories and achievements of these brave men and women of the 19th century.

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Struggles for Liberty takes its name from the phrase ‘struggles in the cause of liberty’, written by Lewis Henry Douglass, the eldest son of Frederick Douglass, about the tireless, heroic antislavery and social justice activism of his mother, Anna Murray Douglass.

The resource is structured by theme: the ‘Story of the Slave’; the History of Black Abolition; the US Civil War; African American activists in Scotland; and the Anna Murray and Frederick Douglass

Family. It also includes interactive maps and downloadable learning activities for teachers, including activities mapped to the Curriculum for Excellence.

“Struggles for Liberty brings together library and archive collections to tell the stories of 19th-century African American activists through their own words,” said Dora Petherbridge, Curator of US and Commonwealth Collections.

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Douglass Frontispiece My Bondage and My Freedom

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“Containing extracts of the autobiographies, histories, narratives, speeches, letters and essays of anti-slavery campaigners and social justice activists, we hope this resource gives insight into the repeatedly silenced story of enslaved people.

“To the day he died Frederick Douglass, abolitionist, human rights activist and author, was immovable in his lifelong conviction: ‘nothing of justice, liberty, or humanity can come to us except through tears and blood’. Struggles for Liberty tells of the great individual and collective accomplishments of Frederick Douglass and other Black activists such as Ellen Craft and Moses Roper, who travelled Britain and Ireland in the 19th

century fighting white supremacy and campaigning for the abolition of slavery.”

Dr Walter O. Evans, who in 2018 loaned items to the Library for the first ever public display of his Frederick Douglass family collection, said he was delighted to be working with the Library once again.

“I was very pleased to loan my Anna Murray and Frederick Douglass Family Collection to the National Library of Scotland.

I have very fond memories of my times in Edinburgh and was delighted that the first public exhibition of the collection was in Scotland, a country that was so very important to Frederick Douglass,” he said.

Photo: Frederick Douglass National Historic Site Anna Murray Douglass

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“Scotland played a crucial role in Douglass’s life, placing him on an international stage and helping to forge his word-renowned activism as an antislavery freedom-fighter and social justice campaigner as well as an inspirational author, orator, and philosopher.

“I am impressed with the Struggles for Liberty online learning resource, complete with its wide variety of historic

Photo: NLS image Running a Thousand Miles for Freedom by Ellen Craft and William Craft, 1860

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materials and curriculum-specific learning activities. I understand the importance of access to source materials and believe that Struggles for Liberty will serve as an indispensable and easily accessible resource for students, teachers, and for those looking to learn more about the Douglass family and other 19thcentury African American freedom fighters.”

Photo: NLS Josiah and Nancy Henson, Glasgow, 1877

Struggles for Liberty features writings authored by prominent African American reformers, freedom fighters and campaigners including Frederick Douglass (1818–1895), Maria W. Stewart (1803–1879), Nathaniel Turner (1800–1831), Sojourner Truth (1797–1883), David Walker (1796–

1830) and Ida B. Wells-Barnett (1862–1931). Their histories are told through books, letters, photographs and other original documents held at the National Library, in the Walter O. Evans Collection (now at Yale), and in other US library and archive collections.

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The resource was created in collaboration with collector Dr Walter O. Evans, and academic partners in the US and the UK, particularly with the Arts & Humanities Research Councilfunded, University of Edinburgh project, Our Bondage and Our Freedom. The resource is available on the National Library of Scotland’s website.

Website

Dr Walter O. Evans

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Travel

Magic, mystery and mortality

by Jo de Sylva

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emeteries are fascinating places. Perhaps it’s the reminder of our own mortality or the stories of the people who populate these final resting places, but few come with as much history and mystery than Tomnahurich in Inverness.

Tomnahurich Hill stands to the south of the Highland capital on the A82 as you leave the city. At 67 metres high and 500 metres long the mound can’t be missed on an otherwise flat area of land, behind which flows the Caledonian Canal.

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Officially an esker it is a rarity in geological terms. It was formed within ice walled tunnels by streams that flowed under the glaciers. When the ice melted the remaining deposits of sand and gravel formed a ridge which is now Tomnahurich Hill.

Today it is covered in a plethora of native and exotic species of tree, including maple, oak, birch, beech, cedar and, of course, yew.

Photo by © Andrew Paterson/SHPA

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Yew trees are believed to have been brought to Scotland by the Celts from Spain as far back as 570 AD and have been known to live for more than 2,000 years.

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For centuries they have been associated with death, resurrection, and the supernatural.

They were often planted in cemeteries and graveyards so the roots could hold the dead in the graves.

It is therefore no surprise there are so many on Tomnahurich Hill which, due to its shape, has been known by a number of names over the years including, the Hill of the Yew, The Hill of The Boat and the Hill of the Fairies.

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For centuries the hill has been associated with fairy legends and tales of unwitting humans who fell foul of their magical tricks adorn local folklore.

Due to its prime location, overlooking the city of Inverness and surrounding lands, the place was regularly used to dish out local justice earning a reputation as the Hill of the Court.

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As a place from which to look out for approaching danger it was also given the name of Watch Hill. In a country with a history as bloody as Scotland’s having an eye on potential trouble and a back up plan was always a good idea.

Legend has it that the giant Fingal sleeps deep within the hill of Tomnahurich with his army. He is said to be chained to the ceiling of an underground cavern but if any mortal strikes the chain three times he and his army will rise in defence of Scotland.

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A similar emergency service is also said to be offered by another legendary figure at rest beneath the hill. Thomas the Rhymer, a 13th century seer and lover of the

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Fairie Queen, will when the time is right rise from the grave with his army to come to the aid of Scotland.

Interestingly, Thomas is not the only person with the gift of second sight to be associated with Tomnahurich. Scotland’s most

famous fortune teller, Coinneach Odhar, alias the Brahn Seer, was the personal seer of the 3rd Earl of Seaforth, Kenneth Mackenzie.

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His job was to predict the future and one of his most famous visions was that “one day ships will sail round the back of Tomnahurich Hill”.

It must have seemed a ludicrous thing to say in the 16th century at a time when the hill was far from any water source. However, in the 19th century Thomas Telford built the Caledonian Canal and now

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boats do indeed pass by the hill as they head north east to join the Moray Firth.

Over the years the hill has played its part in history. In 1653, Oliver Cromwell stripped the trees that stood on Tomnahurich to build his citadel in Inverness to house a garrison of 1,000 men used to try and pacify the Highlands.

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However, it wasn’t until the 19th century that the hill found a new use as a burial ground for the people of Inverness.

In 1863, at a time when inner city graveyards were reaching capacity and there was a fashion for custom made cemeteries,

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the Tomnahurich Cemetery Company announced “the hill of Tomnahurich presents opportunities rarely to be met with, and may unquestionably be made one of the most impressive cemeteries in this or any other country”.

Since then the hill has become the last resting place for many interesting characters, none more so than Ambrose Salvona, the great-great-grandfather of country singer Dean Owens.

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Ambrose was a circus entertainer who is thought to have come to the UK from Italy in the 19th century with a dancing bear. An incredibly colourful personality Ambrose was a much loved character in Inverness. His death notice states that a procession across town took him to his final resting place where he was “buried by friends”.

Today his grave is marked by a simple gravestone which bears the most unlikely inscription for a resident of Inverness - a part of the world not known for anything more fierce than a Highland Cow - “In Loving Memory of Ambrose Salvona. Lion Tamer. Died at Inverness 13th October 1917.

Aged 88 years.”

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Broadcast

Exploring Scotland with a ‘real’ mermaid

by Paul Watson

A

new television series produced for BBC ALBA follows the adventures of a ‘real life’ mermaid on the Isle of Lewis as she indulges in her lifelong passion of swimming in the sea.

The four-part series Miann na Maighdinn-mara/Mermaid Tales offers the ultimate escapism as viewers join Kate Macleod (24) as she discovers hidden treasures in the beautiful turquoise seas on her own doorstep, in her homeland of Uig.

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Brave Kate isn’t put off by the cold and often swims in the sea in winter, wearing her monofin which is like one giant flipper. She also has several of her own Arielstyle tails, custom-made in Hawaii to fit over her Monofin.

Kate was raised in the Outer Hebrides by boat company owner dad Murray and mum Janet, along with brother Seumas. Her love of outdoor swimming began when she was a young girl taking part in the family’s own version of the New Year’s Day Loony Dook.

Kate Macleod, mermaid

Kate Macleod, mermaid

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“When Kate started swimming in the sea it would be too cold for everyone else but she would just keep going, she’d spend the whole afternoon in there then come out freezing,” said Janet.

“On holiday she’d spend all her time on the swimming pool, and she wouldn’t just swim, she would be underwater.”

Kate Macleod as herself

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In the series Kate explores the west coast of Lewis, and nearby smaller islands, by boat with her dad in this series and talks to knowledgeable locals about the fascinating history on her own doorstep.

“I have such a strong bond with the sea and Uig. I think a lot of islanders feel the same. There’s something so special about the islands and Scotland as a whole,” said Kate.

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“I feel so privileged to live in this part of the world, at the edge of the sea, and in the water. When I was young, I felt that if our sea was warmer I would never leave it, I’d just be a mermaid for the rest of my life!”

In episode one, Kate visits the beautiful island of Little Bernera where she kayaks with seals, before swimming in crystal clear waters around the island.

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In episode two, she witnesses a pod of dolphins in Loch Roag, visits the island of Vuia Mhor where she learns about its former inhabitants, and on hearing the 200-year-old story about a boy who used to swim a great distance to see his sweetheart, Kate decides to recreate this amazing feat.

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In episode three, Kate looks on as her brother Seumas tests out his speedboat. She also learns about a 19th century shipwreck and has an overnight adventure with her cousin and her dog on the island of Pabbay.

In episode four, Kate conquers her fear of deep water and explores swimming in some of the deepest parts of the surrounding waters, visits a deserted village with a history going back thousands of years and makes an amazing discovery at the bottom of a loch before trying out her new mermaid tail for the first time.

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The series has been created by Stornoway based MacTV and is available on BBC iPlayer.

“Mermaid Tales offers a glimpse of another world, it’s full of fantastic wildlife and impressive scenery on the west coast of the stunning Isle of Lewis,” said Seumas Mactaggart, head of production & executive producer on this series.

Watch Here

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“This is filmed from the perspective of a young woman who has a strong interest in the natural environment and who is extremely proud of her maritime heritage. It is truly escapist, and such a tonic in these difficult times.“

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History

ighting a wrong

by Scott Aitken

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he University of Aberdeen has become the first institution to return a Benin bronze – a sculpture looted by British soldiers in Nigeria in one of the most notorious examples of the pillaging of cultural treasures associated with 19th century European colonial expansion.

Thousands of metal and ivory sculptures and carvings were looted by British forces in 1897 during the destruction of Benin City in present-day Nigeria by a British military expedition.

Many of the soldiers and administrators involved sold Benin objects to museums or private collectors. Others were later given as gifts to museums or sold at auction or by art dealers.

Photos courtesy of University of Aberdeen

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Over the last 40 years there have been growing calls for the return of such items, which have become symbols of injustice.

A number of museums have been discussing the Benin bronzes in their collections and are supporting the creation of the Edo Museum of West African Art in Benin City to display the returned items under agreements wrought by all parties.

The University of Aberdeen instigated a conversation through Professor Bankole Sodipo, Professor of Law in

Babcock University, Nigeria with the National Commission for Museums and Monuments of Nigeria through its Legal Adviser, Babatunde Adebiyi, the Edo State Government through the then Attorney-General and Commissioner for Justice, Professor Yinka Omorogbe and the Royal Court of the Oba of Benin through Prince Professor Gregory Akenzua in 2020.

The Nigerian Federal Government gave its backing through the Federal Ministry of Information and Culture and its Minister, Alhaji Lai Mohammed.

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This conversation has now led to the University of Aberdeen becoming the first institution to agree to the full repatriation from a museum of a Benin bronze.

The bronze sculpture depicting an Oba (king) of Benin was acquired by the University in 1957 at an auction and is considered a superb example of Benin Late Period Art. Benin City was the centre of a powerful and long-lasting kingdom in West Africa of the Edo people, renowned for its tradition of high-quality metalworking from at least the 17th century.

The expansion of British trade and colonial control in the later 19th century brought it into conflict with the kingdom of Benin, ultimately leading, in 1897, to the city being attacked and destroyed by a British military expedition, the “Benin Punitive Expedition”, with many inhabitants killed.

The royal palace was burned and looted, and the Oba, Ovonramwen Nogbaisi, exiled.

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Neil Curtis with the Benin Bronze

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The thousands of religious and cultural treasures seized have become known as the Benin bronzes.

“The University of Aberdeen has previously agreed to repatriate sacred items and ancestral remains to Canada, Australia and New Zealand, and has a procedure that considers requests in consultation with claimants,” said Neil Curtis, Head of Museums and Special Collections.

“An ongoing review of the collections identified the Head of an Oba as having been acquired in a way that we now consider to have been extremely immoral, so we took a proactive approach to identify the appropriate people to discuss what to do.”

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An expert panel, including academic specialists and curators, as well as representatives of the University Court, the Hunterian Museum in the University of Glasgow and the Nigerian claimants, discussed the proposal in detail and unanimously recommended its return to Nigeria. The University’s governing body also supported the unconditional return of the Benin bronze to Nigeria.

“I welcome the decision of the University of Aberdeen Court to support the return of the Benin bronze. This is in line with our values as an international, inclusive university and our foundational purpose of being open to all and dedicated to the pursuit of truth in the service of others,” said Professor George Boyne, Principal and Vice-Chancellor of the University of Aberdeen.

“It would not have been right to have retained an item of such great cultural importance that was acquired in such reprehensible circumstances. We therefore decided that an unconditional return is the most appropriate action we can take, and are grateful for the close collaboration with our partners in Nigeria.”

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The University is now making practical arrangements for the return of the Head of an Oba, and collaborating in organising a celebratory event to mark its return home.

“The reaching out by the University of Aberdeen and eventual release of the priceless antiquity is a step in the right direction. Other holders of Nigerian antiquity ought to emulate this to bring fairness to the burning issue of repatriation,” said Alhaji Lai Mohammed, the Minister of Information and Culture of Nigeria.

His words were echoed by the Director-General of the National Commission for Museums and Monuments, Professor Abba Issa Tijani who added: “The world looks forward to further release of other purloined Nigerian antiquities to the Nigerian nation.

Not just Benin bronzes, but the Ife, Nok, Esie, Owo and other Nigerian ancient arts.

“We welcome collaborations and agreements of all sorts. We love the fact that others cherish these great art-works. International travelling exhibitions of these art-works is part of what we offer the world”.

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The proposed Edo Museum of West African Art being championed by Godwin Obaseki, the current Governor of Edo State in Nigeria where the ancient kingdom of Benin falls. This modern museum will be part of an unprecedented cultural hub that will include this museum and other cultural heritage infrastructure including the Oba’s Palace.

independent trust, The Legacy Restoration Trust, established by the Edo State Governement in collaboration with the National Commission for Museums and Monuments, and the Royal Benin Palace. This cultural hub is designed by the eminent architect, Sir David Adjaye. This Benin bronze being returned will ultimately be housed in this proposed museum.

It is being executed through the establishment of an

The Governor of Edo State stated:

“I am looking forward to working with the Legacy Restoration Trust, the National Commission for Museums and Monuments, the Royal Palace and the University of Aberdeen to ensure that this object is returned safely and securely, and eventually housed in the Edo Museum of West African Art.”

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2nd April 2022

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Travel

Highland hospitality with… Jo de Sylva, Chair of Visit Inverness Loch Ness

Walking back to happiness A

s we head towards the end of, what we hope will be, the final lockdown it’s perhaps time to reflect on the changes to ourselves during these times.

The one thing about these strange time is that almost everyone has had more time to reflect on our place in the world and what we would like our lives to look like moving forward.

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I’ve certainly taken more time to explore what is on my doorstep with most of us taking more walks than ever before.

Walking, especially with our own company, gives us time to think and reflect.

One of my regular walks along the River Ness has become something I can do almost with my eyes closed.

Photo by Rory Boyd

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To begin with I marvelled at the architecture along the river, the town houses and hotels, and the markers like the Three Graces (definitely in the wrong order) and various benches and memorials that I had never noticed before.

As my walks became more intuitive I began to find my self slipping into an almost mediative state. I could walk from the Castle to the bouncy bridge and not have taken in anything along the route.

The walks on our doorstep here in the Highlands are to places people can only dream of. The mountains, rivers and waterfalls can take your breath away, and being next to nature, is something that can restore even the most troubled soul.

If you’re not familiar with the walks in the Highlands there is a fantastic Facebook group called ‘Highland Walks”, set up by Cecilia Grigor, where locals have taken time during lockdown to photograph and log their walks, giving details of difficulty and

duration. The lovely thing is that there is always local tips and guidance in the comments section for each walk.

Walking, for me has become a joy during these strange times.

Something that previously was a way to get from A to B has become a time to rest my mind from the uncertainty we’ve all been facing. To get away from the constant bombardment of news and media channel. A time to rest my brain and remember what’s important.

So, where have my reflections taken me? It’s made me realise that the most important things in life are not the material goods, but true connections to places, nature and friends, and while the easing of lockdown means that I may not manage as many walks.

The one thing I am very much looking forward to is adding the element of friends to those walks.

We have a year worth of catching up to do so it may be a very long walk.

Photo by Kirsty Mackay

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History

Antique Hunting with… Roo Irvine

Magically marvellous L

egend and magic play and important role in cultures around the world it is therefore no surprise that many antiques are often adorned with mythical beasts with special powers.

China, one of the oldest civilisations in the world with over 4,000 years of history, it is bursting at the seams with intoxicating imagery, tantalising tales, and sumptuous symbolism. China lives

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and breathes its traditions and the world of antiques is where you will find these tales brought to life.

Scottish mythology is equally as fascinating but with of a more pagan undertone. It deals with elements of nature and the land rather than colourful, flamboyant characters. Our folklore is rich with ghosts, witches, kelpies and Celtic goddesses.

Photo by Shizhao CC BY-SA 2.5

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Similar to a movie, where everything happens for a reason, every motif, image and colour on an oriental antique is intentional.

Decoratively they are beautiful but the elements within summon power, good health, financial success and even matrimonial happiness. The mythological creatures take us to other realms our minds can’t comprehend.

One of the most familiar character, representing the ultimate enlightenment, is Hotei.

It is based on a Chinese Zen Monk from around 1,000 years ago. His infectious smile and large stomach earned him the nickname, the laughing Buddha.

This character is incredibly auspicious and said to bring good luck to anyone who rubs his belly!

Photo Nobody60 CC BY-SA 3.0 Hotei sitting circa 1899

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Almost as familiar is the image of the dragon. Heavily featured in television and movies we could be forgiven for forgetting they don’t exist.

Photo by Gary Todd CC0 1.0 Jin bronze dragon

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According to a medieval compendium of beasts, both real and mythical, there are 25 species of dragon. Even our own beloved

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Nessie, has been described as a dragon although others have compared her to a giant eel or dinosaur.

A classic movie depiction of Nessie

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‘Wyverns’, otherwise known as the Welsh dragon, is another mixspecies of mythical beasts. It has the talons of an eagle combined with the characteristics of a lion and a goat.

Welsh dragon

However, if you really want a to see a concoction of beats in a single body look no further than the Chinese dragon. You’d be hard pressed to identify the nine animals that makes a single creature.

A sinewy, weaving beast, it features the horns of a deer, a camel’s head, eyes of the devil, the neck of a snake, the abdomen of a large cockle, carp scales, the claws of an eagle, the paws of a tiger and ears of an ox.

Sometimes it even clutches the flaming pearl of wisdom.

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Photo by Shizhao CC BY-SA 1.0 Nine dragon screen

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The dragon has become the ultimate symbol of China, intertwined within the culture and beliefs. The Chinese people consider themselves “descendants of the dragons.

Historically, emperors slept on ‘dragon beds’, sat on ‘dragon seats’ for a throne and wore ceremonial ‘dragon’s robes’.

Photo Walters Art Museum CC BY-SA 3.0 Chinese jar with three Fu-Dogs

Photo by Gary Todd CC0 1.0 Qing dragon robe

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Unlike the largely negative western view of dragons the Chinese believe them to be noble, divine, heroic and benevolent. They are truly loved and worshipped and adorn many antiques, including vases, tables, screens and sculptures.

Because the dragon symbolises the emperor it is one of the most sought after and desired motifs on any Chinese porcelain. Often it sits alongside the alluring Phoenix. He brings male prowess and she brings her beauty and benevolence.

A satyr, griffin and an arimaspus on a vase from Eretria PD

Photo by Gary Todd CC0 1.0 Dragon tea pot from the Republic of China

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For protection the charismatic Fu Dogs are supposed to guard buildings from harmful people or spiritual influences.

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In Japan the rich red resin used in lacquer is made from ‘dragons’ blood’.The dragons blood tree, found near Yemen bleeds red

when cut and this forms the basis of the ruby red lacquer used in ‘Japanning’.

Photo by Rod Waddington CC BY-SA 2.0 A Dragon Blood Tree

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In Scotland we have portrayed the wonder of the dragon perfectly in a country-dance that harks back to the medieval practice of putting illustrations of dragons and seamonsters on unchartered areas on maps. It became the most fantastical warning for unexplored territories. The dance “There be Dragons” tells the story in with a thoroughly Scottish flavour.

Antiques depicting dragons are a symbol of the importance of story telling among our ancestors who used objects to bring the mystical, magical and marvellous to life. As a result some stories can never be forgotten and some never end.

Photo by Caseman PD A Chinese dragon

Photo by Gary Todd CC0 1.0 Ming pottery dragon

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Supernatural Scotland

The dark side of the fairy folk

by Graeme Johncock

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n Scottish folklore, the fairy people aren’t always kind or helpful. In fact, the majority of stories are scarily dark and Scots were keen to guard themselves against these creatures. The following story from the Western Highlands shares one of the fairies favourite tricks along with how you can overcome them.

A blacksmith and his teenage son worked together in their forge every day until out of nowhere, the son fell mysteriously ill. He was bedridden and even though Photo by Graeme Johncock The Hermitage Woodland

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Photo by Graeme Johncock Faskally Woods

he still had a ravenous appetite, the boy just kept getting weaker and weaker. After a few days with no signs of recovery, the smith was distraught at the thought of losing his son.

News reached the forge that a wise, old traveller had arrived in the village and the smith wasted no time in seeking his advice.

The traveller told him that it

wasn’t his son lying in that bed but a fairy changeling! The fairies were known to steal children away to their kingdom and leave an identical fairy imposter as a replacement. To be sure it wasn’t his son, the smith was to pour water into dozens of empty eggshells and carefully carry them into the bedroom as if they were incredibly heavy before arranging them on the floor.

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As the smith carried out the instructions, the figure in the bed burst out laughing and cried “in all my 800 years I’ve never seen anything as strange as that!” Now certain that this was a changeling, the smith picked the figure up and threw him into the fire where the fairy shot up and away through the chimney.

The smith wasn’t going to stop there, he wanted his child back so returned to the wise man for more advice. He was to go to a nearby hill that very night where the entrance to the fairy kingdom would be open. All he had to bring with him was a bible, a little knife and a cockerel.

As the smith approached the hill, he saw a shine of light and the sound of music coming from a hole in the hillside that wasn’t usually there. Before passing into the fairy kingdom, he stabbed the knife into the ground to stop the hole from closing. Then with the bible as protection he could walk among the onlooking fairies until he found his son slaving away over a forge. The smith demanded that the fairies let him and his son leave together but the gathered crowd all burst out laughing.

Photo by Graeme Johncock Falls of Falloch

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The sound of all that laughing woke up the cockerel which started crowing over and over.

The fairies couldn’t stand the sound so they practically threw the father and son back outside.

The smith grabbed his knife on the way out and the hillside suddenly went dark and quiet behind them.

The story doesn’t end there though. Once the boy had recovered from his ordeal, he saw his father struggling to forge a sword that would be impressive

Photo by Graeme Johncock Schiehallion

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Photo by Graeme Johncock Fairy Pools

enough for an important laird.

With a sigh he told his father to step aside and in no time at all he had crafted the most elegant blade they had ever seen. The boy had picked up a few tricks during his time in the fairy kingdom and his brave father was more glad than ever to have him back.

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While fairies might have been worth avoiding, they still live on in our place names through the Gaelic word Sìth or Sìdh, pronounced “shee”. So if you’re out searching for fairies then have a walk around Schiehallion, Glen Shee or even the magical Fairy Pools of Skye.

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Shop

haring the spirit of the isles A

new online gallery celebrating the unique creativity and imagination that inspires artisan makers on Scotland’s Islands has been launched onto the global stage.

Their unique work captures the spiritual stimulation of where they live, immersed in breath-taking beauty and the intensity of nature and silent tranquillity.

The Isles – Scotland’s Secret Shop, showcases the hand-made crafts of dozens of independent and individual weavers; wood turners; carvers; embroiderers; jewellery makers; painters; glass turners and perfumiers, bringing their work together for a worldwide audience for the first time.

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While thousands of visitors fulfil their aspiration to be swathed and invigorated in the aura of the Islands each year, many thousands more can only dream of doing so. The Isles brings a freshness, fragrance, atmosphere and essence direct to their homes wherever they may be around the world.

Shop

“Each piece is individually crafted and reflects the characteristics of the Island where it was conceived,” said Josephine Swinhoe, from Edinburgh, who has brought all the makers together on the site at https:// theisles.shop Sarah Kay Arts - Beach set

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Jean Burrian design

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“Scots around the world are immensely proud of their heritage, but they can’t all go to the Islands to choose something to capture that emotion. Now they can achieve that through supporting our supremely talented craftsmen and women who explore their imaginations to produce wonderful pieces imbued with a uniquely Islands aura.”

“We have makers from The Shetlands, Orkney and Skye. The range of items is suitably priced for small appreciative gifts or more major purchases, so we hope to have something that will appeal to everyone who has a love of the Isles”.

Jean Tulloch, from Ronaldsay in The Orkneys, has been making her knitted items for more than 30 years, having been taught by her Grandmother and Mother and inheriting her Auntie’s knitting machine.

“My first items were hats, scarfs and mitts and now my favourite would be a jumper or cardigan with the Burrian Cross pattern, made from the rare an protected North Ronaldsay sheep wool. The Burrian Cross design was found on a brooch here,” said Jean.

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Handcrafted scarf

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“Most often a design comes into my head, often as I look out of my window across the fields to the ships lying at anchor. Island life gives you a sense of peace and calm, the views are lovely – but change dramatically with the seasons.”

By contrast Sarah Kay, who lives at Scalloway on The Shetlands, began making the range of items she sells just five years ago. She works in glass, resin and metal.

“As a child I spent a lot of time in the joinery shed of my Great

Uncle. I treasured the items he made me. I began experimenting with mosaic pieces, keen to use recycled materials and to use my sea glass collection,” she said.

“On Shetland we’re spoilt with the beautiful night sky; deserted beaches, wildlife, wild weather and intent light. My designs are heavily influenced by all of that.

I’ve only ever lived on Shetland and from my workshop have the most fantastic sea view of Scalloway Castle and the islands beyond.”

An inspirational view

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Over the last year or more Covid restrictions have produced heightened bursts of creativity on the islands but decreased the inhabitants’ contact with the visitors who are so important to them.

It is hoped the new online gallery will introduce a wider audience to the talents of the residents and hopefully allow people from around the world them to share the atmosphere of these unique

Ronaldsay sheep wool is famous for its quality

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and special places through the work of the islanders.

“Each piece comes with its own unique story of The Isles, which seems so far away from the online world. However, in a world where online interaction has become so significant, we think the time is right to reach out to global audiences and look forward to attracting new friends and growing the extended family of The Isles,” said Josephine.

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History

Historic artefact saved for the nation

by Scott Aitken

A

n important seal matrix used by an illegitimate son of King James V of Scotland, and half brother of Mary, Queen of Scots, to authenticate documents and close letters has been saved for the nation.

The 16th century artefact belonged to James Stewart, the eldest son among nine illegitimate children fathered by King James V, and dates back to the 1540s.

The seal matrix indicates Stewart’s position as Commendator of Melrose and Kelso Abbeys, bestowed on him by his father, the King.

King James V of Scotland (1512-1542)

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“This is an important addition to our collection and we are delighted to have saved it for the nation,” said Dr Anna Groundwater, Principal Curator, Renaissance and Early Modern History at National Museums Scotland.

“It has a direct connection to the Royal Stewart dynasty and moreover shows how King James V was prepared to give status and financial security to his illegitimate offspring, while also protecting his regional interests. This object has not been seen in public since 1901, so we’re very pleased to bring it into the National Collection where we will be able to put it on display in due course.”

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James Stewart’s position as Commendator of the Abbeys of both Kelso and Melrose in the Scottish Borders during the 1540s and 50s gave him significant status in the Borders region.

As commendator, he exerted his authority not only over the lands and income of both these affluent

Photo: Lyon & Turnbull The James Stewart, Commendator of Melrose seal matrix

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abbeys but was also responsible for local defence.

King James, in placing one of his illegitimate sons in this dual role, promoted and financed his son’s life, and protected the King’s interest in the areas

under his son’s control. This was crucial given that at this time, the Scottish Borders were particularly vulnerable due to Anglo-Scottish hostilities in the wars of the Rough Wooing, and the minority of the young Mary, Queen of Scots.

The seal matrix was purchased

by National Museums Scotland for £6,250 through Edinburgh auctioneers Lyon & Turnbull and will be added to the Scottish History and Archaeology collections at the museum.

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While various early Scottish seals - personal, royal and burgh - do survive, the vast majority are within institutional collections.

Either residing within their

Photo: Lyon & Turnbull

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original corporation, institution, or museum collections, rarely do any pre-1700 Scottish seals appear on the open market let alone from the mid-16th century.

“To rediscover and present this important seal to collectors and institutions alike has been a great pleasure, more so now that it will form part of the collection of The National Museum of Scotland, said Colin Fraser Consultant Specialist at auctioneers Lyon & Turnbull.

“To see such early relics of the nation’s history is rare, and to be part of their story a privilege.”

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Environment

ild things, we think we love you!

by Helen Lloyd

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cotland is home to hundreds of species that need special protection, whether they be beast, bird or bug. Some are easy to spot while others are well hidden, and many rely on human intervention to survive and thrive.

Forestry and Land Scotland (FLS), which manages almost 30 per cent of Scotland’s woodlands is preserving habitats that provide safe haven for many of Scotland’s most iconic wildlife.

Some, like the red squirrel, pine marten and capercaillie prefer Scots pine forests for food and shelter but more elusive species: dragonflies, beetles and freshwater mussels, depend on

good management of the many other diverse landscapes that make up the FLS portfolio.

Fortunately Scotland has peatlands, coastal wetlands, alpine climates, lochs and mountains to maintain diversity, even as modern management practices work to overcome the habitat destruction of previous centuries.

Across Scotland private and public land managers are putting in place schemes to remove invasive non-native species, restore ancient woodlands and marshes, and expand and connect woodlands to create better spaces for more species to thrive.

Photo courtesy of Colin Leslie Capercaillie

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Among the projects being supported by Forestry and Land Scotland is the preservation of the iconic capercaillie.

The largest grouse in the world, measuring between 60-87cms, is one of Scotland’s rarest birds.

It was extinct in Scotland by the 1700s and although reintroduced in the 1800s there are probably fewer than 1000 capercaillie left in the country, with forests managed

by FLS among the most important remaining sites.

Caledonian pinewoods are great habitats for capercaillie, but they are perfectly happy in plantations that are managed for timber production.

During mating season the males gather to perform in a lek, dancing and parading to entice female birds. Sadly, capercaillie hens now produce far fewer chicks than they once did.

Local factors such as disturbance and predation may have an impact, but evidence suggests that changing weather patterns are the main problem. Cold and rainy periods in June are more frequent and this is when the chicks are small and vulnerable. Climate predictions warn Scottish summers will be wetter, but warmer, so there is much uncertainty about how this will affect this amazing bird.

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Another project aims to protect the Scottish crossbill. This little finch is the country’s only endemic bird species.

Typically, it breeds in native Scots pine but can also be found in plantations of other conifer when Scots pine coning is poor.

The Gaelic name for a crossbill is ‘cam ghob’ (literally ‘squinty

Photo by FLS Scottish Crossbill

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beaked’) and it’s this distinctive feature which enables the adult bird to open conifer cones and extract their nutritious seeds. The males are a dark brick-red and some people maintain that the bird’s call has a distinctive Scottish accent! There are crossbills in the pinewoods and conifer forests of Sutherland, Moray, Banff and down into lower Deeside.

Living along side the birds are wood ants. Like others of their species they have a curious relationship with aphids. The ants ‘milk’ aphids for a sweet secretion called ‘honeydew’ – and this can be up to 90 per cent of the ants’ diet. In return, aphids gain protection from predators.

In Scottish forests, these little red and black ants can live in 100,000 strong colonies , where they predate upon caterpillars of species such as the sawfly (Neodiprion sertifer) and pine looper moth (Bupalus piniaria)

that eat Scots pine needles. Their nests can be more than a metre high and covered in pine needles with one side flatter to expose more surface area to catch the sun.

Wood ant nests are also home to worms which are tolerated as they help to keep mould and fungus under control. FLS’s ecologists mapping the spread of wood ant colonies in managed woodlands have discovered that thinning operations allow ants to colonise wider areas and increase the number of nests.

Photo courtesy of Colin Leslie Wood Ant

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Photo by FLS Osprey

Another big bird benefiting from human help is the majestic osprey.

Breeding pairs will return annually to the same nests sometimes flying more than 5000km to do so.

Known elsewhere as the ‘fish hawk’, is a clue to how Scotland’s lochs, rivers and estuaries provide a plentiful source of their preferred food. When diving to catch a fish, the osprey can reach speeds of almost 125 km/h.

There’s fossil evidence that ospreys were living in Scotland as

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the glaciers melted away, some 12,000 years ago. They became extinct in 1916, largely due to egg and skin collectors, but they started breeding here again in 1954.

There has been a steady increase in breeding success in Scotland from two pairs in 1967 to 150 pairs in 2000, and approximately 250 in 2018. Even so, the total population is probably less than 1,500 birds.

Similarly, the goshawk, which is about the size of a buzzard and has bright orange eyes and a distinctive white eyebrow, is making a return to Scotland.

The bird’s broad wings and long tail enable it to hunt at high speed, weaving in and out of trees, and its long legs and talons can catch its prey in flight.

Among the stands of Scots pine, Sitka spruce and larch – including

woodlands planted for timber production – goshawks are thriving. FLS takes care to record nest sites, and adjusts felling activities to ensure the goshawks’ safety. In some areas, ‘natural reserves’ are retained especially for goshawks.

Where once they were persecuted to extinction, there are now an estimated 100 breeding pairs in Scotland.

Photo by RSPB Northern Goshawk

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Perhaps one of the most fondly recognisable creatures in Scotland’s woodlands are red squirrels.

These little charmers are a delightful find on any forest walk, red squirrels with their natural ability to entertain with their acrobatic skills and tolerance of human proximity.

Despite living in some of Scotland’s coldest regions they do not hibernate so collect as much food as they can through summer and autumn to see them through the cold months.

Red squirrels can jump up to eight times the height of their bodies, the equivalent of an adult human jumping over 10m high! One of their greatest threats is from the grey squirrel, a much larger animal with a far more varied diet, which is making determined inroads into traditional red squirrel territory.

Photo courtesy of Colin Leslie Red Squirrel

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Despite is name the common scoter is extremely rare. It breeds on freshwater lochs but spend a large proportion of their lives at sea. Thera are most at home along coastlines and easiest to spot when sea watching.

There are around 50 pairs that breed in small lochs in the northwest of Scotland, especially in the flow country of Caithness and Sutherland.

They are among the most vocal of waterfowl. Groups can often be located by the constant mellow, plaintive whistling sound of the males. They dive to feed, and while submerged the wings are partially opened in order to stabilise themselves as they “fly” to search for food on the bottom.

A group of scoters is known as a “mooter” or “scooter” of scoters.

Photo by RSPB Common Scoter

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One of the rarest species in Scotland is the pine hoverfly.

Although it used to thrive in pinewoods across the country it can now only be found at one or two sites. The main reason for the hoverfly’s decline is a lack of suitable habitat for its larvae, which develop and feed in the water that collects in rot-holes in Scots pine stumps. The trouble is that they prefer stumps that are more than 40cm wide – and there

Photo by NatureScot Hoverfly

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just aren’t enough of this size in Scotland’s forests today.

FLS is now working with partners to try to create substitute habitats, created by drilling a hole in a pine stump, replacing the sawdust into the hole, adding some extra bark and then adding water. The resultant ‘organic soup’ is proving successful although the hoverfly population is far from being firmly established.

Small, undeniably fierce and very elusive the pine marten was once nearly extinct in Scotland but has benefited in recent years from the expansion of forestry.

Fast and agile treetop hunters who leap from tree to tree in pursuit of squirrels, these solitary animals are well camouflaged but have a shrill cat-like call which often announces their presence.

Photo courtesy of Colin Leslie Pine Marten

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Photo by NatureScot Freshwater Mussel

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A species for which Scotland has an international responsibility is the freshwater pearl mussel, one of the most critically endangered molluscs on the planet.

Sedimentation, nutrient enrichment, pollution and even pearl fishing have all combined to threaten this key species but looking after the riparian zone (the narrow strip of trees and vegetation on the banks of watercourses) is one way of protecting their habitat.

Freshwater pearl mussels can filter up to 50 litres of water a day and depend upon migratory Atlantic salmon and trout, and resident brown trout, to support the larval stages of their lifecycle. They latch onto gill filaments of these fish and grow until they detach themselves the following spring.

They need to land in clean sand or gravel in order to grow.

Freshwater pearl mussels can live to well over 100 years old and are found in fast-flowing, unpolluted rivers and streams. The pearls that some individuals occasionally produce are highly prized and rare – and have contributed to the species’ decline.

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Folklore

ew telling of old tales A

new organisation launched to protect and preserve Scotland’s ancient folklore aims to reach a new generation using technology of the 21st century.

Merlin’s Craig image by Linley Barba (http://www.linleybarba.com/)

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Folklore Scotland wants to makes tales of the past from across the country much more accessible to a global audience using a multimedia approach to story telling.

It was officially founded in July 2020 as a registered charity by folklore enthusiasts Rebecca Brown and David White. They were concerned that many of the ancient tales they had grown up with were being lost or forgotten.

Initially the two young entrepreneurs wanted to create a story telling travel app to encourage people to get out into the countryside to engage with their local folklore.

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“Most people today have smart phones and games are all the rage so it seemed obvious we should tap into new technology and encourage people to use their screens to get out and about,” said Rebecca.

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It was while working on their app on the elevator acceleration course in Dundee, which is Dundee University’s entrepreneur centre, that they realised there wasn’t any kind of central body in Scotland to promote folklore.

“There are things like the Scottish Storytelling Centre in Edinburgh and the Elphinstone Institute in Aberdeen but there wasn’t really something that brought them all together along the lines of organisations such as Historic Scotland or Natural Heritage,” said Rebecca.

“That’s when we decided to create something. We started with a website populated with a body of folklore tales that people can go in and read and it evolved from there.”

Watch Here

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Through their research they realised a lot of folk tales found in books are often written in Scots which meant they were not as accessible as they could be to a lot of people.

“It is important to keep Scots alive but, in turn, to keep the folklore alive we realised we had to adapt to the 21st century and reach a non Scots speaking audience.

That’s when we began producing podcasts that reach more people and spark interest.”

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Listen Here

The podcasts, published every two weeks, bring new life to old stories while at the same

time exploring their origins and evolution. The next one is due to be released on April 12.

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Cailleach image by Linley Barba (http://www.linleybarba.com/)

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Past episodes include a look at the winter solstice and its implications for stone circles, reincarnation and the role of plants and nature in folklore. The hosts have also explored the role of Cailleach, the winter queen in the story of Angus and Bride.

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Assipattle and the Stoor Worm image by Linley Barba (http://www.linleybarba.com/)

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Other episodes detail the epic Orcadian tale of Assipattle and the Mester Stoor Worm; Loch Garve and the mystical Kelpie’s Chimney; the popularity of ghostly white ladies; and all things Rabbie Burns.

Although the charity is still very much in its infancy it has attracted the attention of people from across the country and further afield, many of whom have been keen to volunteer their help.

Whether it’s writing stories for the website, helping with the podcast. creating artwork or just helping to promote the charity all efforts are welcome.

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“Folklore has so many important lessons to tell that are still relevant today,” said Rebecca.

“It was the main way our ancestors relayed lessons and morals to each other and I think story telling is still so relevant.

It is also an intrinsic part of our culture. It says so much about who we are and where we’ve come from.”

Some of the stories found in Scotland are similar to those in other cultures, many expressing the same moral tones or life lessons.

“There is definitely a lot of overlap with other countries,” said Rebecca. “Scotland shares a lot of folklore with Ireland while up in Orkney and the Shetland Islands there is a definite Norse influence.

However, I always feel there is something of a more grittier character to Scottish folklore that you don’t find elsewhere.”

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Thomas The Rhymer image by Linley Barba (http://www.linleybarba.com/)

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Living Scotland

Glamour, luxury, history and practicality

by Scott Aitken

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n elegant Victorian villa which once belonged to legendary singer songwriter Gerry Rafferty has gone on the market for offers over £475,000.

Eaglestone, a B-listed house in the conservation area of Strathpeffer, was built around 1860 and has a striking design with a continuous open fronted

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veranda around the house, curved gable ends and a pleasing symmetry, set in just over an acre of grounds.

The house retains many original features throughout including one curved wall in each of the reception rooms, cornicing and open fires.

Eaglestone lounge

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There is a traditional former coach house in the grounds, currently used as garaging, workshops and storage, but planning consent and listed building consent had been secured previously by Gerry Rafferty for conversion to a two-bedroom cottage with conservatory and recording studio.

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Eaglestone was once owned by Gerry Rafferty

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The house comes with three reception rooms and five bedrooms and gardens extending to around 1.07 acres, including an area of raised decking, lawns, hedging and specimen trees.

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Eaglestone home gym

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The property lies in a peaceful setting on the edge of the village, sheltered by the mature woodland that fringes its boundaries.

Eaglestone kitchen

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Strathpeffer is situated in Rossshire, 19 miles from Inverness and 26 miles from Inverness Airport.

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Alternatively, for less than the price of studio flat in London, would be home owners looking a little grandeur can buy a luxurious apartment in a private rural setting on the Carlung Estate, North Ayrshire.

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Carlung House

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The grounds of Carlung House

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On the market for offers over £305,000 the four-bedroom apartment spans the entire top floor of Carlung House, a magnificent Manor house set in beautiful wooded grounds.

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Built of Northumberland stone with sandstone dressings the B-listed property retains many original features including the attractive lead lined windows.

“4 Carlung House offers the opportunity to enjoy a wonderful rural lifestyle amid splendid grounds,” said Fiona Fulton of selling agents Galbraith.

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Carlung House apartment kitchen

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“The apartment provides superb accommodation in a magnificent and historic property. The location is also excellent, being about a mile to the beach at West Kilbride yet within easy reach of Glasgow and the central belt.”

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Carlung House lounge area

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Entering from the imposing communal hallway, a stairway gives access to the spacious and well-appointed first-floor flat, with every room enjoying beautiful views over the mature communal grounds and to the hills above Portencross.

Carlung House bedroom

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The property is situated about one mile from West Kilbride and the nearby A737 provides rapid access to Glasgow International Airport and the M8 into Glasgow City Centre.

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Further north Logierait House in Pitlochry, Perthshire is on the market for offers over £625,000 with great estate agents Galbraith.

Logierait House

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Dating back to the early 1700s this stone built former Manse of Logierait Church has two reception rooms, five bedrooms and frontage onto the River Tay with fishing rights.

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Lounge

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Hallway

The three storey property has a wealth of period features, including sash and case windows with predominantly working shutters, fireplaces, cornicing and panelled doors.

The impressive staircase hall in the centre of the house, with doors leading to the two principal south-facing reception rooms with wood burning stoves, creates a bit of a wow factor on entering the property.

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The breakfasting kitchen lies to the rear of the house and is very much the heart of the house with Aga, a former Victorian range being a delightful feature and open plan to the garden room, giving a light and airy dining area.

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Kitchen

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View from Logierait House

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Bedroom

The bedrooms lie over the first and second floors. The principal bedroom, with en-suite bathroom, enjoys a double aspect and beautiful south-facing views.

There are two further bedrooms on the first floor serviced by two bathrooms, together with a walk-in-linen cupboard, with the second floor providing two further bedrooms and a bathroom.

Outside, the property sits amid 1.27 acres of attractive gardens down to the jetty and river bank where there is an abundance of visiting wildlife, including red squirrels, otters, beavers, ospreys, pine martin and a range of water fowl including whooper swans, ducks and kingfishers.

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Anyone over 55 looking to downsize to a new, purpose built retirement property Juniper Residential, the new ageexclusive living brand of the Cruden Group, has two new developments in Scone and Kinross.

Artist’s impression of Earlsgate exterior

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Comprising 92 properties these developments mark the first of several in the pipeline for the new company and will go some way to address retirement housing needs.

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The Earlsgate development, located in Scone at the site of the former Wheel Inn, comprises a mix of 51 stylish one and twobedroom apartments, with superb facilities for socialising, including three communal lounges, landscaped gardens and a hotelstyle guest suite for visitors.

Artists’s impression of Muirwood Gardens

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In Kinross, Muirwood Gardens is a 41-unit development on the site of the former Windlestrae Hotel that will comprise a mix of 33 contemporary bungalows and villas, plus 8 cottage flats.

The development also features a communal resident’s club lounge and luxury guest suite for visitors.

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The first of Juniper’s new homes are anticipated to be complete by Summer 2021.

One-bed apartments at Scone will cost from £165,000, with two-bed apartment from £240,000.

Two-bed bungalows at Kinross will cost from £255,000, with threebed villas from £295,000.

Kitchen-dining area

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“These are exciting developments for Scone and Kinross, with a great appeal for those looking to enjoy their retirement here,” said Hazel Davies, Juniper’s Sales & Marketing Director.

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“The benefits of moving into an age exclusive community are numerous, particularly with regards to the sense of wellness and community afforded by the vibrant social life on offer. Here residents can participate in activities such as organised walking groups, film nights and yoga classes, to name but a few.

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“The developments also provide a peace of mind that is proving very attractive to prospective buyers who are reassured by the latest security features and fewer home and garden maintenance demands.”

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