Dark history of Dunstaffnage Castle

Situated around three miles outside of Oban lies the remains of one of Scotland’s oldest and most formidable stone castles, dating back to the 13th century.

Dunstaffnage Castle and Chapel, on the outskirts of the village of Dunbeg, sits on a raised rocky outcrop at the mouth of Loch Etive. It is surrounded on three sides by the sea and provides commanding views across the Firth of Lorn, the Sound of Mull and the approach to the Great Glen.

It has always been a major strategic location for anyone looking to control a key route from Argyll into the heart of Scotland - and that’s precisely why the McDougalls built it. For most of the 13th century they were the most powerful clan in Argyll.

Initially constructed as a simple quadrangular structure, with thick high walls and few openings to provide ideal security and defence, the castle has been altered and expanded considerably over the centuries.

Throughout the ages Dunstaffnage and surrounding area has played an important role in Scottish history. Even before foundations of the current castle were laid there is believed to have been a fort on the site. It was here that the Stone of Destiny, carried to Scotland by Scota - a daughter of an Egyptian Pharaoh, is to have been kept until it was moved to Scone by King Kenneth MacAlpin in the 9th century.

In the 14th century the MacDougalls were supporters of the Balliol claim to the Scottish throne, a decision which put them on a collision course with Robert The Bruce. During the Wars of Independence Bruce defeated Clan MacDougall at the Battle of the Pass of Brander in 1308 and took control of Dunstaffnage.

The King gave control of the castle to the Campbells. They held on to it for a number of years before John of Lorn, head of the MacDougalls, was granted back the lands by King David II in 1358.

However, sometime around 1470 the castle passed into the hands of the 1st Earl of Argyll and once again became an important stronghold for Clan Campbell who owned and operated a string of similar fortifications across the region.

As a military garrison the castle played a significant role in the civil wars of the 17th century when, between 1644 and 1647, it was a major military arsenal and supply base. It was besieged by Montrose's army in 1644 and used as a garrison for Cromwell’s troops from 1652 to 1660.

In 1685 the castle was set on fire by royalist troops during Argyll's Rising in 1685 against the Catholic James VII and during the Jacobite risings of 1715 and 1745 it was occupied by Hanoverian troops sent to pacify the Highlands.

The castle was even used as a jail for political prisoners, including the legendary heroine Flora MacDonald. She was detained there briefly on the way to London for questioning over her part in helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape the country, disguised as her maid Betty Burke, following the Jacobite defeat at Culloden.

Now partially ruined the castle and nearby chapel are classed as Scheduled Ancient Monuments and have been in the care of Historic Scotland since 1958.

Each year thousands of visitors make the journey to Dunstaffnage. Some go for the scenery and others for the history but a small number are more interested in the ghost.

Known as "Ell-maid of Dunstaffnage", she is described as a heavy footed lady dressed in green whose appearances are said to herald either tidings of great joy or sadness.