Tantalising Tantallon Castle

by Scott Aitken

Set high on a cliff edge, in the shadow of the legendary Bass Rock, the ruined medieval fortress of Tantallon Castle still exudes an air of menace, power and influence.

If its crumbling walls could talk this former home of the Red Douglas dynasty would tell tales of bloody battles, illicit affairs, treasonous plots, political skulduggery and international intrigue.

It was built sometime in the middle of the 14th century by William, 1st Earl of Douglas. His grandfather, Sir William the Hardy, fought with William Wallace against the English and died a prisoner in the Tower of London. His uncle, Sir James Douglas, sided with Robert The Bruce and earned the nicknames ‘Black Douglas’ from the English and ‘The Good Sir James’ among the Scots.

It’s therefore no surprise that when England went to war with France, in what became known as The Hundred Years War, the 1st Earl of Douglas fought for the French. When he returned from the war he killed his godfather, Sir William Douglas of Liddesdale, and took over as head of the House of Douglas before being created Earl of Douglas in 1358.

He also went on to have an affair with his sister-in-law, Margaret Stewart, 4th Countess of Angus, who bore him an illegitimate son called George who later inherited the castle and his mother’s title to become the Earl of Angus and the start of the family line known as the Red Douglases.

Over the years the family sided with and against the Scottish monarch as they schemed and plotted their way to even greater riches and build upon their existing power base. The result was sometimes a success but more often a disaster as the castle was put under siege several times over the years.

The castle’s last military adventure happened in the 17th century when Oliver Cromwell’s army defeated a Scottish force at Dunbar and laid siege to Tantallon Castle. For 12 days the Royalist defenders inside the fortress were bombarded by cannons until they were finally forced to surrender, but only after securing a promise of mercy in recognition of their bravery. The castle had been severely damaged in the siege and was never again repaired or inhabited.

The ruins were sold in 1699 to Sir Hew Dalrymple, the President of the Court of Session, to settle gambling debts run up by James Douglas, 2nd Marquess of Douglas and the 12th Earl of Angus, and pretty much left to decay.

In 1924 the castle remains were handed over to the UK Government and it is now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland, listed as a Scheduled Ancient Monument and renowned as the last medieval curtain wall castle built in the country.

A little more than three miles from North Berwick the castle is unique and well worth a visit by anyone holidaying in, or passing through, the area. The south-east, north-east, and north-west sides are naturally defended by steep sea cliffs while to the south-west a massive red sandstone curtain wall defends the last approach.

There is no doubt that in its heyday Tantallon must have been an impressive fortress. Even as a ruin it is an enchanting place to visit. History seems to seep from every pore and ghosts still wander the crumbling halls and galleries.