Cinciano POGGIBONSI TUSCANY ITALY

The Cinciano estate has a commanding position above the Elsa Valley looking across to the medieval town of San Gimignano known for its towers – these were built in the 12th and 13th centuries as symbols of wealth and power as rival noble families tried to outdo each other. Cinciano, then, was a hamlet gifted to the Bishop of Florence in 1126, but its origins probably date to Roman times. Today it is privately owned by the Garrè family who have exquisitely restored the estate’s buildings and gardens. The 150-hectare estate has 24 hectares of vineyards on very steep and rocky inclines and 40 hectares of olive groves as well as a superb osteria and accommodation. Andrea Biagini makes wines which are understated rather than big and showy. They are great food wines that go well with typical Tuscan fare — beef, wild boar stews, herbs and tomato-based sauces — and which have good potential for long cellaring.

The warm 2019 vintage has produced a deeply coloured wine at Cinciano with black cherries, black pepper, treacle, figs and nutty aromas. On the palate, it is as smooth as velvet with flavours of violet and cooked fruits complemented by musky spices. Rich and concentrated, it has no hard edges at all and will be delicious to drink for some years.

A medium- to full-bodied wine with dried fruits, raisins, figs and treacle flavours. It has some grippy tannins and a long finish. Produced from plots on the estate 15-25 years old on stony Alberese soils with some clay. Vines face southwest with grapes picked in early October. It was matured 14 to 18 months in large Slavonian oak casks.

Camponi Riserva is produced from a plot of 40-year-old vines planted at very low density and producing very low yields. The 2017 has a mellow bouquet with cherries, menthol and blackberry aromas. It is smooth with a finelayered texture and firm acidity. It is medium to full bodied with finesse and great potential for aging. It comes in a wooden case.