Rabbits: An Illustrated Guide to Care and Behavior

Adorable and fluffy with short tails, rabbits are fascinating creatures.

There’s something about them that makes them unique, especially when having one to own.

Rabbits

Hop in through this guide book with full illustrations, An Illustrated Guide to Care and Behavior noteworthy facts, and great information on the care and behavior of rabbits.

Ä€ja Cenon

Rabbits An Illustrated Guide to Care and Behavior

Aja Cenon

Copyright © 2020 by Aja Cenon Illustrations by Aja Cenon 1st Edition Blurb Publications

Dedicated to the beloved bunny family: Willoby, Vanellope, Lola, and Yuki.

Table of Contents Section 1 Introduction to Rabbits ● Introduction ● A Brief Rabbit History ● A Comparison of Wild & Domesticated Rabbits ● Chart: Wild Rabbits vs. Domesticated Rabbits ● Breeds ● Chart: Popular Rabbit Breeds ● Test: How well do you know your pet rabbit?

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Section 2 How to Care for a Pet Rabbit 31 33 34 37 38 39 41 42 43

Location Is Important Bunny Proof Your Home Infographic: Elements To Be Cautious in a Household Supply a Dietary Staple Basic Training Habits Tips/Tricks: How to Lift Your Rabbit Correctly Grooming Tasks Infographic: Regular Grooming Care Manage a Daily Routine

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Section 3 Understanding a Rabbit’s Behavior Every Rabbit Is Different ● Guidelines for Building a Bond ● 48 Chart: Recognizing Body language & Action Patterns ● 51 Tips/Tricks: How to Make You Rabbit Happy ● 46 47

Section 4 The Importance to Rabbit’s Health & Hygiene ● A Healthy Diet vs. an Unhealthy Diet ● Beware of Health Issues ● The Benefits of Spaying/Neutering

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Section 5 Living Arrangements for a Happy Rabbit ● ● ● ● ●

Settling Living Arrangements Indoor vs. Outdoor Rabbit The Differences Between Free Roamed & Caged Test: Are Rabbits Right for Me? Conclusion

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Section 1

Section 1: Introduction to Rabbits Introduction Rabbits are fascinating creatures. They’re adorable, small, and fluffy with short tails. But there’s something unique about them, especially when having one to own!

The goal of this guide is to show how and why rabbits make wonderful pets. The guide is full of fun illustrations, noteworthy facts, and great information on the care and behavior of rabbits. At the end of this guide, you’ll want to consider choosing a rabbit as your own next best friend.

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A Brief Rabbit History Discovered from the western Mediterranean, the European Rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) were brought to Great Britain by the Normans for meat and fur seen as a major economic asset during the 12th century. Kept as “warrens”, a special walled enclosure to hold rabbit colonies and their burrows, a “warrener” would carefully look after them providing food and protection from predators. A sort of similar routine to today’s pet owners. Even monks raised rabbits in monasteries during Lent in the Middle Ages. Widely spread throughout Great Britain and Ireland, European Rabbits can be found nearly anywhere hidden in burrows from a wide variety of coat colors and size by the middle of the 16th century.

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A Comparison of Wild & Domesticated Rabbits Wild and domestic rabbits can be often confused, especially having similar physical characteristics. Just like dogs and wolves or pigs and boars, each animal are distant relatives living within the same families. However, they each have entirely different genes and living habitats.

Both wild and domestic rabbits are considered as members of the Lagomorpha order, of which they’re both considered as the Leporidae families consisting of 87 species. The average lifespan of a wild rabbit is between 2-4 years. For domestic rabbits, their lifespan can be an average of 10-14 year based on the proper care and the right living conditions indoors. Within their first years of life, about 90% of wild rabbits die early. Wild rabbits became a major agricultural pest beginning in the 19th century as new agricultural technology arose which resulted in damage to landowner’s property and estates.

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Between the physical characteristics, wild rabbits have a common short length brown fur known as “agouti’’ coloring which allows them to blend in within their surroundings. They can also be found in a midnight black coat seen on European wild rabbits. Their tails are commonly small, white and fluffy like the American Cottontail. Their body size ranges from small to medium that can be up to 15 inches (40cm) and weighing 2.6 to 4.4 lbs. (1.2 -2kg); the males being on the heavier side compared to females. Domestic Rabbits come in a full range of different colors in coats with long or short length fur and eye colors such as blue, brown, or ruby.

Their ears can be either upright or down, sizing from small to large, and weighing to 2.5 to 22 lbs. (1.1-1.35kg).

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For their living environment, different wild rabbits can live either in burrows (warrens) or above ground level. Domestic rabbits are usually an indoor animal living comfortably alongside humans, but they do inherit a wild rabbit’s nature for digging. However, domestic rabbits depend on human assistance for their food, warmth, and shelter. They also adjust their sleeping schedule to a human’s schedule. Domestic rabbits can sleep up to 8.4 hours a day while wild rabbits sleep less than that.

Behavior of both species are similar in that they are cautious when encountering a human. Oftentimes they’ll run away out of fear as if a predator were amongst them. Domestic rabbits can also be wary at first, but over time they’re capable of accepting human contact that can develop into a close bond between them and their human caretaker.

Wild rabbits and hares are sometimes confused as being the same since the two species look similar far away. Also, jack rabbits are still different from hares. Despite being from the same family of wild rabbits, hares and jack rabbits aren’t able to breed with each other.

Wild Rabbits 45 mph in speed Live to 2-3 years “Agouti” coloring & black Short length fur Brown-eyed Up-right ears Small to medium size up to 15.75”(40cm) Weighting 2.6 to 4.4 lbs. (1.2 -2kg)

Domestic Rabbits 30 mph in speed Live to 10-14 years Full range of different colors Long or short length fur Different eye colors (blue-eyed, brown-eyed, ruby-eyed) Upright & floppy ears Different ranges of small to large sizes Weighing to 2.5 to 22 lbs. (1.1-1.35kg)

Breeds The Industrial Revolution breeding amongst rabbits began. Rabbits became domesticated and homes were built and settled from being farm-raised to indoor or outdoor enclosures at a house. As of today, The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) identifies 48 special rabbit types since January 2016 and the British Rabbit Council (BRC) identifies over 60 breeds since August 2014.

The following next pages introduce the ten most popular rabbit breeds within the United States and U.K.. That’s important to get to know when considering what best suits you as a caretaker or your interest in rabbits.

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Ten Most Popular Rabbit Breeds Note: all of these breeds are suitable as wonderful pets for adults and children.

1) Lionhead Rabbit – A small rabbit that’s recognizable by its long mane fur around its head which resembles an appearance of a lion’s mane. The Lionhead can have a double, single, or no mane. They believed to be a genetic mutation from crossing a Belgian Dwarf and a Swiss Fox. They are increasingly popular as of today as both pets and show animals.

● Head: wide and bold with a slight roundness between the eyes, but not round from all directions ● Ears: upright, not touching, rounded at tips with heavy wool more than halfway up ear length ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue-grey, and ruby ● Body: short, well-rounded, balanced to body, and legs are medium in length ● Weight: Minimum of 1.10 lbs.(1.49kg) to 3.75 lbs. (1.7kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: strong mane wool fur, medium soft density with texture that’s full and thick enough making the mane stand out. Transition wool allowed on the flanks. Fur length on head is about 4” long (10cm) and around the body is at least 2” long (5.08cm) ● Color: REW (pure white with ruby eyes), TORT (black, blue, chocolate, or lilac), and more variety of solid and broken patterns that matches with eye colors ● Temperament: calm and friendly

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2) Flemish Giant – A large rabbit that’s known to be one of the oldest and largest breeds of rabbit in existence as well as believed to be the descendants of the Stone European Patagonian rabbits. Imported from England to the United States, the Flemish Giant was not accepted by the ARBA until 1924.

They’re very calm & intelligent and highly popular in the show circuits.

● Head: large, bold, and well-shaped ● Ears: 6” long, upright with a heavy ear base ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue-grey, and ruby ● Body: large, but firm and balanced to body, arched shoulder blades peaking at the hips and rounding off the tail, long & strong legs, broad fore, and hind quarters ● Weight: Minimum of 6.5 lbs. (2.9kg) to 14 lbs. (6.35kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: full, short in length and rollback, shiny, and dense ● Color: sandy, fawn, REW, black, steel, light grey, and blue ● Temperament: calm and friendly

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3) Holland Lop – A small, compact rabbit with lopped ears. Originally created from the Netherlands by Adriann de Cock in order to have the results of a miniature French Lop. By doing so, breeding the French Lop with the Netherland Dwarf together, adding in the blood of the English Lop as a result. The Holland Lop isvery popular for having a sweet temperament which makes a favorite breed to own.

● Head: massive, broad with a well-defined crown at the back ● Ears: lopped, downward, teaspoon shaped lying behind the eyes ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue-grey, blue, and ruby ● Body: small, short stocky body, well-balanced, straight and short length legs ● Weight: Minimum 2 lbs. (0.907kg) to 4 lbs. (1.81kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: short length, dense, glossy, smooth, and rollback ● Color: a variety of solid and broken patterns that matches with eye colors ● Temperament: sweet and does well with children

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4) Continental Giant – Also known as Conti’s for short are a large rabbit breed that was purposely given for show purposes relating to the Giant breeds such as the Germans, Belgians, Spanish, and more. The Continental Giant’s lineage includes origins from multiple different countries. They are the dependent type, thriving best when they’ve gotten a lot of personal human interaction. However, oftentimes due to their large size, their lifespan is short having only 5 years. ● Head: big, well-developed cheeks, and bright wide-open eyes ● Ears: thick, large, upright, and well-covered and rounded ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, and ruby ● Body: large, giant body length that’s a minimum of 26” (65cm), broad, powerful with round hindquarters, straight and strong legs and feet ● Weight: Minimum of 12.4 lbs. (5.5kg) to 15.8 lbs. (7.16kg) and up ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: medium length with visible guard hairs, rollback, thick, and shiny ● Color: black, dark and light steel, yellow, chinchilla, opal, and red and chestnut agouti, REW, and BEW (pure white with blue eyes) ● Temperament: calm and friendly

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5) Netherland Dwarf – A small rabbit that is known to be one of the smallest breeds of domestic rabbits in existence. Their small structure size were the result of crossbreeding from the Polish Rabbit and wild rabbits in the Netherlands. At times, they can be skittish and are stubborn in nature with a high level of energy. But, they can become calmer and more gentle in nature if handled regularly. The Netherland Dwarf have become one of the most popular pets that have a wide spread of coat colors. ● Head: large, bold, rounded face, and broad forehead ● Ears: very small that’s 2” long (5.5cm), upright, higher on their heads, and commonly referred to as a “baby-ish look” ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, blue-grey, and ruby ● Body: small and short, well-balanced and compact, head is disproportionate and big with the size of their rounded bodies, and short length legs ● Weight: Minimum of 2.5 lbs. (1.1kg) to 3.5 lbs. (1.5kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: short length, dense, soft, and shiny ● Color: a wide variety of broken and solid patterns that matches with eye colors ● Temperament: calm, friendly, and stubborn

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6) Dutch Rabbit – A small to medium rabbit which are descendants of the Petite Brabancon originating from the Brabant region of Flanders. The Petit Brabancon were bred in the 19th century for meat production. When they appeared in Britain in the 1830’s, the best of those rabbits were selected for their white markings leading to what we now know as the Dutch Rabbit or “the fancy rabbit”.

● Head: broad with full cheeks, inverted “V” design of white fur over the nose ● Ears: semi-short in length, stocky, and upright ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, and blue-grey ● Body: small/medium, well-balanced to body size, short, and strong legs ● Weight: Minimum of 3 lbs. (1.36kg) to 4 lbs. (1.81kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: thick, dense, and variety of different markings and coat colors ● Color: black, blue, chocolate, yellow, tort, steel grey, and brown and pale grey ● Temperament: gentle and calm

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7) English Lop – A large rabbit, these are one of the first rabbit breeds that were developed in the 1900’s for exhibition. It is well known for its distinguishable long lop-ears. The ear length is due to the hotter climate of the Algiers, as these ears not only were used for hearing, but also as a way to regulate body temperature. The English Lop was also a rising popular house pet during the Victorian Era.

● Head: medium sized with full cheeks leading to a wide muzzle, and short neck ● Ears: thick, long, lopped, 21”-32” in length from tip to tip, fully grown at 4 months of age ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, and blue-gray ● Body: large, firm, long resembling a mandolin, arched hips from back of the shoulders, and medium length feet and legs ● Weight: Minimum of 9.5 lbs (4.30kg) and up ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: smooth, short, silky, medium length, fly-back, butterfly, eye circles, dark ears with blanket-pattern on the body, white elbow spots on feet and legs ● Color: color groups are agouti, self, broken, shaded,wide-band, and ticked ● Temperament: calm, friendly, and lazy

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8) French Lop – A large rabbit that was crossed between an English Lop and the Butterfly, which resembles a Flemish Giant. Introduced to the UK in the 1930s and imported to the United States during the 1970s, the French Lop continues to increase in popularity. They are very sociable and intelligent making them excellent pets.

● Head: well-shaped, overall defined, wide crown, and slight curve from ear base to the nose ● Ears: strong, lopped, thick 5-8”medium length that hangs below the jawline ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, and blue-gray ● Body: heavy, large, short length in feet and legs, semi arched that's wellmuscled, and broad ● Weight: Minimum of 11 lbs. (4.98kg) and up ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: short, thick, dense, 1.25” long (3.175cm), and rollback ● Color: nose marking, dark eye circles, and colored ears in a variety of solid and broken patterns ● Temperament: sociable, intelligent, and friendly

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9) Mini Rex – A small rabbit that is recognized for its velvety undercoat fur. The rabbit came to existence in France around 1900 and was soon known to the ARBA in 1929. It adopted its extremely soft fur from the genes of the Netherland dwarf in purpose of creating a breed with the Rex patterned coat that’s small in size.

● Head: close to the shoulder ● Ears: semi-short in length, thick, and upright ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, and blue-gray ● Body: short length in feet and legs, small, and well-balanced ● Weight: average of 5 lbs. (2.26kg) to 9 lbs. (4.08kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: soft, plush, velvety feeling, full, dense, 5/8 inches (1.27cm) long ● Color: a variety of broken and solid patterns that matches with eye colors ● Temperament: calm and stubborn

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10) Polish Rabbit – A small rabbit that is believed to have originated from Belgium during the 1600s from crossing the Dutch and the Himalayan breeds. In previous decades, they were larger in size, but as of now, the Polish Rabbit is known to be one of the smallest rabbit breeds in existence even though they do not carry any dwarf genes.

● Head: oval shaped, set low and not high on shoulder, and around cheeks ● Ears: semi-short in length, well-furred, upright, and resting against each other ● Eye color: brown, dark brown, blue, and ruby ● Body: long, built frame, small, short, and thin length in feet and legs ● Weight: Minimum of 2.5 lbs. (1.13kg) to 3.8 lbs. (1.587kg) max ● Tail: straight ● Fur & Coat: soft, smooth, short in length, thick, shiny, and fly-back ● Color: a variety of solid and broken patterns that matches with eye colors ● Temperament: gentle, friendly, and timid

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Test: How well do you know your pet rabbit?

Here are a few open-ended questions for those owners who have one to see how well you know your pet rabbit! There are no correct answers. This is a chance for you to look for in things you didn’t notice beforehand.

1. What kind of personality does your rabbit have?

2. What is your rabbit’s favorite hiding place?

3. What toys does your rabbit enjoy playing with?

4. Do you know the birthday of your rabbit?

5. How well does your rabbit interact with other pets or people?

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Section 2: How to Care for a Rabbit Location Is Important A rabbit needs a comfortable home to live in when keeping it safe and secure from its environment, whether a rabbit is kept indoors or outdoors. A space should be dedicated to the rabbit for playtime and sleep. When placed in a small cage, rabbits are deprived of their much needed physical activities. A rabbit should be given at least 4 hours a day. For a caretaker, after work or school, the rabbit should be allowed to get out to get its daily exercise.

Rabbits are prey animals and when they are placed outdoors, they are subject to predatory animals. If a rabbit is to be an outdoor pet, their enclosure should be secure to prevent any unwanted animals from getting to the cage. It is recommended for rabbits to be watched over when they are outside in their rabbit enclosure in the event that they are able to escape and put themselves in harm’s way.

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Bunny Proof Your Home Open electrical wires could be dangerous to rabbits. Standard household receptacles supply 120 volts which is fatal for both humans and rabbits. All wires should be secured and inaccessible to pet rabbits. Wall baseboards should be gated since rabbits will chew on anything they can get their mouths on. Providing a closed in play pin or large enclosed area can give a space for the rabbit to run around and get exercise deterring them from chewing on the wall baseboard.

Loose carpeting can easily be dogged at and ruined as well as stained if the rabbit is not properly litter trained. Furniture is recommended to have a base that can not be chewed. Materials like metal tend to be strong and last longer. But materials like wood or plastic can easily be chewed and ruined.

Having access to cardboards or hay can help pre-occupy rabbits from chewing on household furniture. Rabbits also like to get under small crawling spaces in between furniture and can be hard to get them out once they go in. Eliminate these small spaces so they won’t dig, get trapped or stuck, misbehave, chew on wires behind furniture, or cause a ruckus.

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Infographic: Elements to be Cautious in a Household Here are some examples that demonstrate what could happen and what can be done when a rabbit is out and exploring an owner’s home.

Doors Cause: rabbits can get stuck and injured Resolve: be cautious when opening and closing doors

Table & chairs Result: rabbits could easily slide off and chew floor legs (if wooden) Resolve: don’t leave them unattended

Plastic Result: rabbits consuming it can lead digestive problems and blockage Resolve: Beware what they are nibbling at and have it outreached from them

Smooth floor surfaces Result: rabbits can potentially get hurt from sliding and slipping Resolve: laid out carpet or mat space when they are free-roaming

Electrical wires/cords Result: if the rabbit chews on it, it can cause electrical shock Resolve: cover it up or hide it under the carpet/baseboard

Other animals Result: animals can potentially cause each other stress and discomfort that could lead to fights Resolve: be cautious with supervision or don’t have them close in contact

Plants Result: plant has potential in being poisonous for rabbits Resolve: remove and relocate plants away from rabbits

Cleaning Products Result: products has potential in being poisonous for rabbits Resolve: remove and relocate products away from rabbits

People Result: rabbits could get caught between your legs and has potential in being stepped on Resolve: beware and be careful when moving around when a rabbit is out

Supply a Dietary Staple Hay is essential for a rabbit’s digestive system and should always be available.

A rabbit’s teeth grow very rapidly, roughly a centimeter per month. This means that they have to keep wearing their teeth down by chewing on hay, greens, and twigs. This helps prevent dental problems in the future. Hay is not fattening and can be eaten all of the time. Chewing hay can also be a healthful activity when they are bored. The rabbit’s special digestive system is made to handle a diet consisting of plants low in nutrient value and high in crude fiber. Rabbits eat small amounts of food up to 80 times per day. Rabbits at a young age need to be provided with alfalfa hay while older rabbits should be provided with timothy or meadow hay. Pellets could also be given also, but should not be substituted for hay. Rabbits always need a clean supply of drinking water. It is recommended that the water is given in a pet dish and not in a hanging water dispenser. Water is best served cool but not ice cold. Fresh herbs and vegetables are suitable for rabbits and are also a part of their dietary staple. Specific foods for rabbits are discussed more in depth within Section 4.

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Basic Training Habits Training a rabbit should be part of every caretaker’s duties. Like any pet owner, training your pet is essential. Especially if you’re having it inside of your house.

Litter training is one of the first things a caretaker should do. All rabbits should have access to a litter box. Putting small amounts of hay in the litter box with bedding at the bottom gives them a chance to eat and pee in their litter box. If this process continues, they could sniff their pee and know where to relieve themselves. An alternative, but not advised to all owners, is having the rabbit use puppy pads rather than using a litter box. Training a rabbit is difficult as they are not like dogs and could possibly chew on their puppy pad. They tend to have a stubborn attitude.

But with a lot of patience, you’ll gain trust and love from your rabbit.

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Tips & Tricks: How to Lift Your Rabbit Correctly

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When lifting a rabbit, they are held by the butt and the stomach. One hand should be under their butt and the other hand should be grasping their stomach. When grabbing them, reach with the right hand and pull them close at the stomach against your chest. Then, support their butt with your left hand. Rabbits should not be cradled like a baby as this runs the risk to put the rabbit in shock or hypnotize it.

Usually when this happens, rabbits start to close their eyes. Precaution should be taken so that this doesn’t happen.

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Grooming Tasks Just like cats, rabbits often groom themselves. However, a rabbit needs daily assistance in caring for their coat in order to keep them clean and healthy, regardless if your rabbit has a long or short coat of fur. Rabbits can shed, form knots, and kinks all year-round adjusting to the seasonal weather outdoors, but when rabbits constantly groom themselves as well as other rabbits it can lead to bad conditions like gastrointestinal obstruction.

Owners can help groom their rabbits by wiping the ear with a cloth or tissue, examining their teeth for discoloration, matted fur in their private area; sometimes their poop gets caught in their fur between the legs. Check toenails as well as trim them down when they get too long.

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Infographic: Regular Grooming Care

Fur brushing

Nail clipping Ear cleaning

Eye checking

Teeth checking

Health exams

Manage a Daily Routine A daily routine is essential to properly care for a rabbit in order for them to be happy and healthy. Like taking care of a child or a house, time and attention needs to be dedicated every day because it’s important to prioritize giving the rabbit the care it needs including its regular maintenance in grooming. Although they are pets, our pets are considered as a family member and must be taken care of as such. So, it’s advised for an owner to stick with a manageable routine!

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Section 3

Section 3: Understanding a Rabbit’s Behavior Every Rabbit Is Different Rabbits have a gentle and quiet nature, but every rabbit is different with their own unique personalities which will show more as they grow closer to the caretaker.

Breed of the rabbit can have an effect on their personality. Although rabbits have their own unique personality, they still share the same common trait of their wild heritage. Some rabbits may show more affection than others. Some rabbits may be more timid than others. These personalities can all change depending on the bond between the caretaker and the rabbit. Later, more will be discussed behind a rabbit’s behavior and what it all means.

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Guidelines for Building a Bond While this may not apply to all rabbits since they all have their own distinct personalities, with time and patience the rabbit will soon grow to love it’s caretaker. For example, being able to play with the rabbit everyday in a closedin area where it’s only the owner and the rabbit is a good start having your rabbit acknowledge who you are as their owner. It should be noted that when this is done, it is done at ground level as this is where they are most comfortable as opposed to being held up in the air. This way, it helps having all of the rabbit’s attention towards the caretaker. By doing this, it helps the rabbit become familiar with the caretaker’s presence. Feeding the rabbit with food given from the hand is one way to form a bond and show that you pose no threat to the rabbit. Over time, this helps to overcome the timidness of a rabbit. Petting them also shows care and love.

This can be used as a greeting to the rabbit to show signs of affection.

Talking to the rabbit gives them positive reinforcement to feel secure as well as familiarize the rabbit with the owner’s voice.

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Recognizing Body Language & Action Patterns

Binkying ― a dramatic leap that expresses excitement and happiness.

While leaping in mid air, rabbits would twist their bodies and kick out their feet. Often before a binky happens they’ll do a lap run a couple of times in circles or even do it in a sudden burst of enjoyment.

The Bunny 500 ― is a term where a rabbit is running all around at full speed. This also happens when a rabbit does binkies out of high excitement.

Flopping ― this happens when the rabbit is satisfied. A rabbit will turn its head a few times before rolling over and flopping on its side completely.

Buzzing/Honking ― sounds that show excitement and sexual attraction.

A rabbit will circle around while displaying honking/buzzing when in contact to another rabbit as well.

Licking ― this will happen when a rabbit is being affectionate. This is often shown when a pair of rabbits are grooming each other creating a close bond between one another.

Thumping ― a movement where a rabbit senses danger or discomfort. It can also be a way to alert other rabbits to watch out.

Purring/Teeth Grinding ― a sign that signifies discomfort or pain as well as enjoyment. If a rabbit is grinding due to pain, the sound appears louder as their teeth grinding becomes apparent more frequently than opposed to grinding softly.

Growling ― a sign that reveals when a rabbit is angry or stressed out. This often happens when stepping into their territory and sending the caretaker a sign to back off.

Screaming ― this may only happen when a rabbit is in severe pain or dying.

Immediately seek veterinary assistance if this happens.

Kicking ― a movement where a rabbit is displeased displaying their feet up in the air and kicking as they hop away.

Chinning ― a movement or sign that represents marking their territory as well as stating that its “mine”. This is displayed by rubbing their chin against an object which contains special scent glands.

Nose Bonking/Nudging ― a sign of greeting or investigation. However, this can indicate bossiness from the rabbit. This can indicate bossiness from the rabbit stating that there’s something “in the way” or wanting to grab the caretaker’s attention.

Nipping ― this can also happen in order to get attention. Sometimes when rabbits nip it can be displayed out of aggression. A strategy to mitigate this from happening is to shriek everytime this happens and the habit will lessen over time.

Digging ― a movement where the rabbit seeks recognition.

Tips & Tricks: How to Make Your Rabbit Happy Making a rabbit happy can be achieved by a combination of many things. For instance, providing them with a chew toy such as cardboard, natural paper, assorted straw and sisal balls, or twigs could give a fun activity for them. Giving them their daily exercise can also keep them happy and healthy. It is also essential to give the rabbits love and attention by playing with them and petting them. Doing this also helps to form a bond between a rabbit and it’s caretaker.

Occasionally giving healthy treats is also a way to keep a rabbit happy such as bananas, blueberries, and carrots. Lastly, having a rabbit companion is great for a rabbit to have someone else to play with when the owner is not around.

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Section 4: The Importance to Rabbit’s Health & Hygiene A Healthy Diet vs. Unhealthy Diet Having a healthy diet consists of a variety of fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, grasses, and leaves. These sources of food are beneficial to a well balanced and natural diet in the long run since rabbits have a sensitive digestive system. As mentioned before previously, hay is an important dietary staple. Hay contains a good amount of fiber content that’s non-fattening and helps rabbits with gastrointestinal problems.

However, alpha hay is best given to baby rabbits only while overtime should be switched out to regular grass hay, preferably timothy hay. Suitable examples of fresh foods to be given to rabbits recommends: 33 53

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● Vegetables with greens: celeriac, carrots, celery, fennel, turnip, jerusalem artichoke, broccoli, and dark, leafy lettuce ● Vegetables/tubers: zucchini, parship, squash, chicory, and parsley root ● Leaves: corn, beans, soybeans, and peas ● Small amounts of other vegetables: chinese, red, and green cabbage varieties, peeled cucumbers, unstemmed peppers and swiss chard, red tomatoes, asparagus, corn kernels, and beef tops ● Herbs: dill, borage, chamomile, basil, chervil, watercress, lemon balm, lovage, parsley, yarrow, and oregano ● Small amounts of fruits and berries: apple, blueberry, raspberry, banana, strawberry, pear, and honeydew melon ● Wild plants: strawberry leaves, grass, common plantain, English plantain, coltsfoot, bindweed, daisy, dandelion greens, orache, vetch, and chickweed ● Flowers: leaves of sunflowers and calendula ● Pellets: consisting of dried vegetables, herbs, and grasses While a rabbit can consume a vast variety of fresh and natural produce, some of these foods can be dangerous, unhealthy, and never should be given. Even if it contains high calories, it can lead a rabbit to have digestive and dental problems. Unsuitable examples of fresh foods that aren’t recommended to rabbits: ● Never offered vegetables: eggplants, radishes, soybeans, avocado, leeks, ornamental gourds, onions, legumes, spinach, and rhubarb ● Poisonous foods: raw beans, green tomatoes, tomato leaves, and raw potatoes and potato leaves ● Unhealthy treats: cookies, chocolate, candy, milk, moldy hay, and overall human foods Rabbits

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Beware of Health Issues As a pet owner be aware that just like dogs and cats, rabbits can end up having health issues during their lifetime. Owner awareness is key to a happy healthy rabbit. Here are a few issues to take note of: ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Watering eyes Discolored urine Soggy poop No appetite Excessive drinking Drinking less Lack of activity

Rabbit Illnesses: ● Digestive parasites irritate the digestive system which can cause diarrhea resulting in dehydration ● Skin parasites such as fly larvae found in fur as well as fleas eat rabbit flesh. ● Cancer ● Ear and eye infections ● Urine infections ● Molar spurs

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Section 4

The Benef i ts of Spaying/Neutering Spaying/Neutering a rabbit can change a rabbit’s behavior for the better. For example, they could become more tamed and calmer rather than being destructive.

However, they will never lose their curiosity for the world. It also makes it easier for the caretaker to better manage them like litter training and building a relationship.

Another benefit is that they could live a healthier and longer life. It helps decrease risk of cancer and infections to their urinary tract. It also prevents them from spraying their urine and having babies.

Spaying and Neutering should be done at an early age. For “bucks” or male rabbits should be 3-5 months old enough to be neutered and for “does” or female rabbits should be 4-6 months old enough to be spayed. But rabbits reaching 5-6 years old are too old to have the procedure. Due to this, and for younger rabbits that aren’t at least 3 or 4 months old, have a higher risk for complications in getting the procedure done. In order to have a safe and successful experience for getting a rabbit spayed/neutered, the caretaker must find an experienced veterinarian that has had experience working with rabbits. It is advised for all caretakers to discuss with a qualified veterinarian that will help them better understand what will be happening to a rabbit during the procedure and allow them to ask questions about the post-care process afterwards. However, if the rabbit was adopted from a shelter or rescue center, the procedure may have been already done prior to owning the pet. All caretakers should make sure to ask in order to verify whether the procedure was done.

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Section 5

Section 5: Living Arrangements for a Happy Rabbit Settling Living Arrangements Finding where to keep a rabbit can be a difficult task. When caretakers don’t have living arrangements with lots of space, sacrificing one area to keep a rabbit can be hard. Rabbits are nocturnal animals which means they are very active at night. Taking this into consideration, your rabbit’s living space should be a safe and secure environment. Also, a space where the rabbit can’t do any damage to baseboards, floors, and walls.

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Indoor vs. Outdoor Rabbit Rabbits kept indoors have a chance to have a closer bond with their owners.

An indoor environment provides a constant source of warmth in the winter and cooler comfortable temperature during the summer. Rabbits living in an outside structure like a barn or weather-proof hutch allows your pet to roam freely as well as permits ample space for food and play time. However, outdoor rabbits are exposed to weather conditions, feas and predators. It can be harsh for a rabbit so it requires constant supervision and your pet should be brought indoors in extreme temperatures.

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Section 5

The Differences Between Free Roamed & Caged A caged rabbit has limited space for exercise, is at risk of being unhappy and consequently developing health issues. It would be up to the caregiver when the rabbit is allowed out of its cage and for how long. Free roam allows rabbits to go in and out of their house without restriction. More space for exercise is beneficial for a pet. Having a space for them to hop around and run could be approximately the size of a small bedroom or extend to 36”x 24” in room size, especially for larger rabbits kept indoors. For free roam rabbits, their enclosure needs to be secure so that they don’t escape. So by placing or setting up a gate or play-pen helps prevent escaping or getting into future mischief.

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Test: Are Rabbits Right for Me? Take this questionnaire to find out if rabbits are the pet for you! Pull out a sheet of paper and record your answers and compare them to the end to find out if you’re ready to own a rabbit.

1. Can you spend hours of your day taking care of your pet? (Yes/No) 2. Are you willing to provide space in your home for raising a rabbit? (Yes/No) 3. Are you prepared to bunny-proof your home to prevent damages from chewing? (Yes/No) 4. Are you a patient person or not? (Yes/No) 5. Are you willing to give your rabbit exercise everyday? (Yes/No) 6. Are you committed to keep a rabbit for a long time (more than 4 years)?

(Yes/No) 7. Are you ready for the responsibility of taking care of a rabbit? (Yes/No) 8. Do you believe you can manage your time between your lifestyle as well as managing your rabbit’s lifestyle? (Yes/No) 9. Do you think that you can be up to date in grooming and keeping your rabbit healthy and clean everyday? (Yes/No) 10. Can you dedicate time to train your rabbit? (Yes/No)

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Section 5

Answers: 1. Yes. It is recommended for rabbits to have at least 4 hours of exercise time.

2. Yes. Rabbits need adequate space. A gated enclosure or section of a room should be dedicated for the rabbit that has a good amount of space for a rabbit to hop around in.

3. Yes. Rabbits tend to be mischievous so blocking out certain areas of your home prevents future destruction as well as preventing rabbits from being in harm’s way.

4. Yes. Patience is key when dealing with any pet as an owner.

5. Yes. It is essential that a rabbit has exercise in order to keep your pet active.

6. Yes. Oftentimes, owner’s don’t understand the commitment of taking care of a rabbit and end up giving away their rabbits after a short period of time.

7. Yes. Before deciding to take care of a rabbit, the caretaker should be ready for the responsibilities associated with pet ownership.

8. Yes. An owner shouldn’t have to jeopardize their pet’s well-being due to their lifestyle.

9. Yes. Routine maintenance and hygiene are essential to taking care of a rabbit.

Keeping up to date with things like trimming long haired rabbits’ fur and nail trimming should be kept up with.

10. Yes. Rabbits need litter training as well as require time to train your rabbits on other matters. Training is needed with any pet in order to accommodate your lifestyle.

If the overwhelming majority of answers are yes, then this indicates the characteristics of a good rabbit owner. There are still many other things to be conscientious of within this book. A good rabbit caretaker should continue to keep a good working knowledge of their specific rabbit as well as know what makes the rabbit unique in order to best care for it.

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Conclusion The six sections in this guide provided the essential aspects of being a rabbit owner. Each section filled with lively illustrations, has tips and tricks, infographics, charts, and facts exploring the why and how of being a rabbit caregiver. As you become familiar with the different breeds of rabbits, you may find yourself wondering why it took so long to ignite your love of rabbits!

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Section 5

Bibliography 1. Carlson, Lorelei. “The Difference Between Wild & Domestic Rabbits!” YouTube.

September 8, 2018. Accessed October 20, 2020. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSVFq-SE4vg 2. “How many breeds of rabbits are there.” Rabbit Producers Association. April 23, 2017. Accessed October 20, 2020. https://www.rabbitproducersassociation.com/how-many-breeds-of-rabbitsare-there/ 3. My House Rabbit. Accessed October 20, 2020. https://myhouserabbit. com/ 4. “Rabbit Breeds from A to Z.” RabbitPedia. 2019. Accessed October 20, 2020. https://rabbitpedia.com/rabbit-breeds/ 5. “Rabbit History Facts - How Rabbits Have Evolved.” Animal Corner. (n.d.).

Accessed October 20, 2020. https://animalcorner.org/rabbit-history/ 6. “Species - Rabbit.” The Mammal Society. (n.d.). Accessed October 20, 2020. https://www.mammal.org.uk/species-hub/full-species-hub/discovermammals/species-rabbit 7. Wegler, Monika. My Dwarf Rabbit. New York: Barron’s Educational Series, Inc., 2006.

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