Issuu

LONG BEFORE HIDDEN COCKTAIL BARS BECAME A HOSPITALITY OBSESSION, THE THAXTON WAS QUIETLY SETTING THE SPEAKEASY STANDARD IN ST. LOUIS

S T . L O U I S ’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A R Y A U T H O R I T Y // S A U C E M A G A Z I N E . C O M // S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 6

1 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3

SEP TEMBER 2026 • VOLUME 26, ISSUE 9 OWNER & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

Lucas Farrell

OWNER & CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Kyle Stevens EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lauren Healey DIRECTOR OF ADVERTISING Kelli Jones CREATIVE DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Haimanti Germain Emily Bellenbaum, Julia Fallert Emily Bellenbaum, Kiana Fleming, Riley Hansen, Lauren Healey, Tony Rehagen, Salem Prestien

Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.

COCK TAILS ARE NO AFTERTHOUGHT AT THE THA X TON SPE AKE ASY IN DOWNTOWN ST. LOUIS. LE ARN MORE ON P. 13. // PHOTO BY JULIA FALLERT

TO PLACE ADVERTISEMENTS IN SAUCE MAGAZINE, contact the advertising department at sales@saucemagazine.com. The entire contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright 2026 by STL Bucket List, LLC. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the expressed written permission of the Publisher, Sauce Magazine, 7302 Piccadilly Ave., Maplewood, MO 63143. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, STL Bucket List, LLC. While the information has

4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits. Sauce is available free of charge. Additional copies of the current issue may be purchased for $1.00 plus postage, payable in advance to the Sauce Magazine office at 7302 Piccadilly Ave., Maplewood, MO 63143. Sauce may be distributed only by Sauce authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of Sauce, take more than one copy of Sauce's monthly issue.

September 2026

S E P TE M B E R 2 026

contents editors’ picks 8 DRINK THIS

Hazy IPA at Narrow Gauge Brewing Co.

by Tony Rehagen

features 12 IF YOU KNOW, YOU KNOW

The Thaxton speakeasy reveals itself to those who know where to look

by Lauren Healey 20 LAGER TOWN

St. Louis is reaching for lagers again

by Tony Rehagen 25 CHEF SPOTLIGHT

Mike Johnson of Sugarfire Smoke House

by Kiana Fleming 26 BEYOND THE BOTTLE

The MO Wine Couple has tasted their way through every Missouri winery

by Salem Prestien 32 STATE OF THE SPIRIT

What makes Missouri whiskey unique

by Emily Bellenbaum

last bite 36 STUFF TO DO THIS SEPTEMBER by Riley Hansen

COVER DETAILS

STI LL 6 30’S O R I G I NAL STI LL . LE AR N MO R E O N P. 32 . // PH OTO BY EM I LY BE LLE N BAUM

September 2026

The region’s original speakeasy, The Thaxton, is still undiscovered by many locals in downtown St. Louis. Learn more on p. 13. // photos by Julia Fallert

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

P H OTO C O U R T ES Y O F N A R ROW GAU G E B R E W I N G C O.

E D I T O R S ’ P I C K S

September 2026

DRINK THIS An underappreciated trait of good beer is the nose – hitting your nostrils just before the foam, awakening the brain to liquid bliss ahead. Aroma accounts for 80% of what we experience as taste. The IPA masters at Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. triple-dry-hop this limitededition brew, released about four times a year, to unleash the intense hop citrus and pine without adding bitterness. The result is a smooth juice bomb that exemplifies the appeal of the Hazy IPA. Named Up Up Down Down Left Right Left Right B A after the cheat sequence in the Nintendo game Contra and colloquially known as “Konomi Code,” it’s an easy hack for maximum flavor. 1545 N. Hwy. 67, Florissant, narrowgaugestl.shop saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9

10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11

PHOTO COURTESY OF WORTH THE SQ UEEZE JUICERY

12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

Long before hidden cocktail bars became one of hospitality’s biggest trends, The Thaxton speakeasy was already operating beneath one of downtown St. Louis’ most remarkable historic buildings. What began as an early nod to Prohibition-era secrecy has evolved into a nearly 20-year-old destination, where an unassuming alley entrance leads to a dimly lit underground lounge and an elegant event space upstairs, all quietly revealing themselves to those who know where to look.

September 2026

BY LAUREN HEALEY PHOTOS BY JULIA FALLERT

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

idden bars are hardly a novelty anymore. Walk into enough cocktail lounges these days and you’ll eventually be asked to slip through a bookshelf, duck behind a freezer door or memorize a password before someone lets you inside. But back in 2007, when The Thaxton opened beneath downtown St. Louis’ historic Eastman Kodak Building, none of that had become the blueprint. There wasn’t a modern speakeasy playbook yet. Craft cocktails were still finding their footing and “hidden bar” wasn’t a phrase plastered across social media. The Thaxton simply got there first. Nearly two decades later, the downtown destination still feels like a genuine discovery, not because it’s trying to be mysterious for the sake of it, but because it actually is. Finding it is half the adventure. The entrance is tucked away in an alley off Olive Street, easy enough to miss if you don’t know exactly where you’re headed. From there, guests wind through the historic building, down a series of stairs and into a sprawling basement lounge that seems to reveal itself a little at a time. It’s darker than most bars in town. Low lighting washes over the tables, leaving the cement walls in shadow while vintage furnishings give the room an old-world richness that feels anything but contrived.

14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

The Thaxton owner Kimberly Pitliangas

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15

Unlike many modern speakeasies that squeeze guests into tiny hidden rooms, The Thaxton opens up once you’re inside. The ceilings are high, the seating is generous and there’s enough space to settle in for an evening instead of rushing through a round or two. It feels exclusive without feeling crowded. “We are a very chill, very swanky, fully seated downtown underground cocktail lounge,” owner Kimberly Pitliangas said. “The experience is meant to feel as if you have discovered and gained access to a very special and unique space. It feels exclusive, but in truth all with proper etiquette are welcomed.” That feeling starts long before the cocktails arrive. The building itself has one of downtown’s more fascinating histories. Constructed in 1927 as a prototype retail store for Eastman Kodak, it was intended to become one of 100 identical buildings across the country before the Great Depression changed those plans. Only five were ever built and the

16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

St. Louis location is the lone survivor. The painstaking restoration of the building began in 2002, preserving original architectural details that now define both the upstairs event venue and the lounge below. While many people know The Thaxton as one of the city’s most beautiful wedding and event spaces, complete with soaring ceilings, dramatic windows and ornate historic details, fewer realize there’s an entirely different experience waiting downstairs. “When the idea of opening a lounge in the lower level came about, it made sense to play off the history of the building and make it a speakeasy,” Pitliangas said. “Mind you, this was well before the craft cocktail revolution and current speakeasy craze.” The timing wasn’t accidental. The building opened during Prohibition, when actual speakeasies illegally served alcohol behind closed doors. Long before hidden cocktail bars became fashionable again, The Thaxton embraced that history.

September 2026

Visitors from outside the city, on the other hand, have embraced it for years. “I am incredibly proud to have contributed to St. Louis tourism for so many years,” Pitliangas said. “I love being a positive representation of our city, providing an exceptional experience to guests and giving them a reason to return.” It’s also a reminder that downtown St. Louis still rewards curiosity. Beyond the ballgames and major attractions are places like The Thaxton that have quietly built loyal followings for years, tucked behind historic facades and hidden just enough that finding them feels like an accomplishment. The cocktails are no mere supporting act, and The Thaxton has never been interested in flashy smokefilled presentations or elaborate bar theatrics. Instead, the focus is on balanced drinks made with thoughtful ingredients. “We are less about the show of creation than offering a well balanced and thoughtful drink,” Pitliangas said. “We want you to sit back, relax and enjoy the overall sensory experience of the space.” The Blueberry Sage French 75 has become one of the lounge’s signature cocktails, adding fresh blueberry and sage to the sparkling classic. The Razz Ma Tazz combines gin, raspberry syrup, lemon and bitters with Greek yogurt, an unusual addition that gives the cocktail an unexpectedly silky texture. Its nonalcoholic counterpart, the Razz NO Tazz, delivers the same experience using NA spirits. The Frida Kahlo layers reposado tequila with lime, blackberry, cassis, orange blossom water and jalapeño syrup for a cocktail that’s bright, balanced and just spicy enough. The menu continues to evolve through collaboration among the staff, who draw inspiration from herbs, spices, produce and lesser-known spirits rather than whatever trend happens to be dominating social media.

The password remains part of the ritual today, posted weekly on the lounge’s Instagram page in all caps. It isn’t a gimmick so much as a tradition, one that quietly reminds guests they’re about to step into a place that’s remained remarkably consistent while the rest of the cocktail world has chased the next big thing. That’s been especially true as speakeasies have exploded in popularity over the last decade. New concepts continue to pop up around St. Louis, each putting its own spin on secrecy and surprise. Yet even among that crowded field, The Thaxton remains one of the city’s hardest-to-find destinations, the kind of place you excitedly text to a friend after your first visit because you’re convinced you’ve uncovered something they somehow haven’t. Ironically, Pitliangas says that’s still true for many locals. “After 18 years of business in St. Louis, we are still largely undiscovered by locals,” she said. “I am looking to change that.”

September 2026

“Vintage vibe and superior service always comes first,” Pitliangas said. Looking ahead, she’s excited to expand the lounge’s temperance menu, which includes both low- and no-ABV cocktails, borrowing language from the Prohibition era while experimenting with ingredients like turmeric and beet powder. The Thaxton opens to the public Thursday through Saturday when it isn’t reserved for private events, with weekly hours and the current password posted on Instagram. For a city that now has no shortage of hidden bars, The Thaxton remains refreshingly authentic. It never had to reinvent itself to fit the speakeasy craze because it helped define what that experience could be in the first place. Sometimes the original is still the one worth searching for. 1009 Olive St., St. Louis, thaxtonspeakeasy.com

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

or the past two decades, there have been two types of St. Louis beer drinkers: the staunch, old-school Anheuser-Busch backer and the upstart craft beer connoisseur. The former put their faith in mass quantities of easy-drinking, lighter American lager; the latter rebel against the straw-colored stuff in search of more flavor from fruity sours, boozy barrel-aged stouts, and hop-packed IPAs. But if you’ve dropped by your local brewery or bar lately, you may have noticed some Venn overlap of these two drinking circles. For instance, you and a friend can walk into Blue Jay Brewing Co. and order a pitcher of Change Up, a crisp, clean American lager. Your crew can meet at a sports bar and share an iced bucket of Zwickel Light bottles from Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. or swing through Total Wine and pick up a 12-pack of 12-ounce cans of 4 Hands City Wide Light Lager. Even at Busch Stadium, you can choose between a plastic cup of Bud Select or that of a Brewligans Lager from 2nd Shift Brewing. St. Louis, the city shaped by AB, is once again a lager town. For decades, lager in STL was a given. “I grew up learning to drink Budweiser,” said Jay Thompson, brewer who with his wife, Nicole, opened Blue Jay Brewing in Midtown in 2023. “My friends, my family, my family’s friends all drank Bud. Growing up, everyone knew someone who worked at Anheuser-Busch. And they gave a lot of free beer to their employees. As a kid you find it. AB made a huge impact on the city and its drinking culture.” Thompson left for 20 years training to brew and whipping up Germanstyle lagers for brewpub chain Gordon Biersch in California. When he returned to St. Louis in 2011, he encountered a beer scene he barely recognized. The craft beer revolution of the 2000s was only just beginning to seize the city, with the likes of 4 Hands, Civil Life, and Perennial all joining Schlafly that year. Like most independent brewers nationwide, these upstarts specialized in big, flavorful beers like stouts, English-style ales, and IPAs. The exception was Urban Chestnut (UCBC), also launched in 2011, cofounded by Florian Kuplent, a German-born master brewer and former AB brewmaster. Thompson found a home at UCBC, helping produce flagship Zwickel, a wildly popular classic Bavarian lager. “I don’t think they were specifically looking to be the one thing for everybody,” said Thompson. “But they hit the nail on the head with Zwickel: Germanstyle, light, but unfiltered so there was a bit more flavor.” Even so, as the decade wore on other STL breweries brought attention to the city as a world-class wellspring of BA stouts and wild ales (Side Project) and American and New England-style IPAs (Modern and Narrow Gauge). Enthusiasts from around the country would come for the latest releases from Perennial and Side Project or connect with locals online to facilitate bottle trades. It wasn’t until the 2020s and the pandemic that the city started to drift back toward a taste for lagers.

20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

PHOTO COURTESY OF LIT TLE L AGER

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

First, there was a gradual national trend of younger drinkers looking for functional drinking sessions with less alcohol and fewer calories. This saw the rise in alcoholic seltzers, but also helped lighter lagers, whose ABV was sometimes less than half that of IPAs or stouts. Then came the pandemic, when even the most discerning drinkers felt the pinch of tough economic times and limited public drinking spaces. “Bars shut down, breweries started doing pickup,” said Manny Negron, who witnessed the swing in tastes firsthand in retail shifts at now-closed bottle shop Craft Beer Cellar and then Schnucks, before opening his own bar, Little Lager, in 2023. “People leaned into grocery store beer and away from craft. They could fill their fridge with 30-packs of Busch, Stag or Pabst without destroying their wallet.” When quarantine lifted and hop heads emerged, their palates had changed. Demand led some STL prestige craft brewers to apply their considerable skills to lagers, which are generally considered harder to make because there is nowhere to hide flaws. Side Project put out cans of Maplewood’s Best rice lager (a play on Milwaukee’s Best) and Millpond released Old Millstadt light lager. UCBC doubled down on Zwickel with Zwickel Light, packaged in 12-ounce cans and long-neck bottles designed specifically to replicate the look and feel of Bud Light. The gates were open for breweries to branch out into adjacent sub-styles like Mexican lagers, Italian and Czech Pilsners, German Helles, and darker offerings like Vienna lagers, Czech dark lagers, Schwarzbiers, Bocks and smokey Rauchbiers. Entire lager-centric breweries Blue Jay and Great Heart Brewing opened, along with Negron’s Little Lager, featuring Czech-style side pours. Negron even thinks that this embrace of lagers among local brewers has led to once-adamant craft drinkers lowering their guard a bit when it comes to the macro brews. “Now that their heroes are making lagers, they are more willing to go into dive bars and drink Budweiser,” he said. Thompson acknowledges the growth of craft lager in his hometown. But he also said that local craft culture’s readiness in adapting back to pitchers, buckets, bottles, 12-packs, and even actual Buds shows that lager has been in our DNA all along.

PHOTO COURTESY OF BLUE JAY BREWING

“St. Louis has long been a lager town,” he said. “And while I can’t foresee the future, I think it will always be a lager town.”

22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

PA RT N E R CO N T E N T

Chef Spotlight: Mike Johnson

o f Su gar f i r e Sm o ke H o u se

BY K I A N A F L E M I N G

elebrated as one of St. Louis’ best barbecue destinations, Sugarfire Smoke House has built a reputation for pushing the boundaries of traditional barbecue. At the helm is chef and co-owner Mike Johnson, who, alongside founders Charlie and Carolyn Downs, has helped grow the brand from a single restaurant into multiple locations across Missouri and Colorado. Long before Sugarfire became a barbecue powerhouse, it all began with a simple joke. “My business partner, Carolyn Downs, was baking pastries and pies at Cyrano’s, and we always joked about opening a concept centered on barbecue and pies,” Johnson said. “She was the sugar, and I’m the fire.” That idea became reality when the trio opened the flagship Sugarfire location in Olivette, Missouri, in 2012, combining sweet and savory flavors under one roof. What began as a playful idea quickly evolved into a one-of-a-kind restaurant that blended barbecue with house-made pies and desserts. Guests can fill a paperlined tray with smokehouse classics like brisket, pulled pork, ribs and smoked turkey. The menu is rounded out with daily sides, including creamed spinach, which rivals steakhouse quality, alongside Southern comfort classics like jambalaya. Every sauce is made in-house, and the pies and milkshakes are prepared from scratch. More than a decade later, that winning formula has helped make Sugarfire one of

the region’s most recognizable restaurant brands. A St. Louis native, Johnson discovered his passion for the restaurant industry and cooking at an early age. Because his parents rarely cooked at home, he quickly found his way around the kitchen. At 16, he landed his first restaurant job at the finedining establishment Al Baker’s, starting where many chefs do. “Like all good restaurant folks, I started in the dish pit,” he said. “I was drawn to the fast pace and the people. I never loved the idea of a traditional work or school environment. Hospitality has always felt more my speed.” His culinary journey eventually led him to New Orleans, Louisiana, where he worked under renowned chef Emeril Lagasse at his acclaimed Creole restaurant, Emeril’s. “Learning to cook in his kitchen, in such a great food city, really set me on my path,” Johnson said. During his time there, Johnson was introduced to influential chefs, including American chef and restaurateur Charlie Trotter of Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, whose commitment to excellence had a lasting impact on his career. He also credits Belgian Master Chef Daniel Joly of Mirabelle Restaurant in Beaver Creek, Colorado, as one of his most important culinary mentors. Outside the kitchen, Charlie and Carolyn Downs have helped guide Johnson’s growth as a business owner and leader, offering mentorship

and support throughout his journey. Those influences continue to shape the Sugarfire experience. “Our team comes from diverse culinary backgrounds, so you’ll see fine-dining techniques show up in our specials,” Johnson said. “We take the best traditions of barbecue cities across the country and create something that’s uniquely Sugarfire. Our menu has a little bit of everything for everybody, and we’ve never stopped having fun.” Johnson’s favorite menu item is The Big Muddy, a towering sandwich piled high with smoked jalapeño-cheddar sausage, beef brisket, lettuce, pickles, Alabama White barbecue sauce and Sugarfire’s signature St. Louie Sweet sauce.

His passion for cooking continues to fuel his work. He draws inspiration from traveling the world, experiencing distinct cultures, cuisines and cooking traditions along the way. Johnson continues to compete in global live-fire barbecue competitions, most notably in South America. Those experiences inspire innovative ideas and flavors that often find their way onto Sugarfire’s menu. His greatest motivation, however, is his family. “My kids keep me motivated and the desire to explore. There’s always a new opportunity around the corner, and this industry keeps me on my toes,” he said. “St. Louis is such a great food city, and I’m excited for the rest of the world to see what we’ve built here.”

FOODSERVICE

2204 N. Broadway • St. Louis, MO 63102 • 314.231.8400 • 800.472.3673

Visit Our Showroom or checkout our website FORDSTL.COM September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCOT T AND TONYA ROMBACH

26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

BEYOND THE BOTTLE AFTER TASTING THEIR WAY THROUGH EVERY MISSOURI WINERY, THE ROMBACHS FOUND A WINE CULTURE BUILT AS MUCH ON COMMUNITY AS WHAT’S IN THE GLASS BY SALEM PRESTIEN Scott and Tonya Rombach liked wine and had weekends. Several years and every Missouri winery later, they will tell you the wine was never really the point. The people were. Every owner, every winemaker, every staff member who poured and talked and shared more than was required. What struck the Rombachs was not just the warmth but the lack of competition underneath it. Wineries here encourage guests to visit their neighbors. They celebrate each other’s harvests. In an industry that could easily turn territorial, Missouri wine country largely hasn’t. They started as sweet wine drinkers, the sweeter the better, Tonya will tell you, and somewhere along the way their palates quietly mutinied. Scott became a dry red devotee. Tonya gravitates toward dry whites and sparkling, especially in warmer months. They now notice the difference between French and American Oak. None of that was the plan. The best advice they

September 2026

ever received came from a visit to Temecula, California, where someone told them that learning to appreciate wine is like training for a marathon. You don’t love everything on day one. You keep tasting, learning, training your palate. The wine taught them, one tasting at a time. What Missouri does that deserves more attention, they’ll say, is refuse to be somewhere else. The assumption that this is sweet wine country and nothing more collapses fast on a first visit. Missouri has four American Viticultural Areas, and the first AVA ever established in the United States was right here, in Augusta, predating Napa Valley. A state grape, the Norton, has a history longer than most people realize. Dry reds, whites, rosés, pétnats, sparkling wines made by people who are not trying to out-Napa Napa. That, the Rombachs argue, is the whole point. Missouri’s greatest strength is being authentically Missouri. Their Golden Cork Awards grew from a simple question they

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

started asking each other on every drive home: would we come back? Not whether the wine scored well or the view was pretty. Would they come back. The wineries that earned an immediate yes were the ones where every guest, first visit or 50th, was welcomed with the same warmth. Not because the Rombachs were recognized. Because that is simply who those places are. They get asked often what comes next, now that Missouri is complete. The list, they say, only got longer. Oregon, New York, Idaho, Montana. France, eventually. Italy, Germany, Portugal, New Zealand. Every region with its own personality, every bottle with its own story. The through line stays the same: find the places people overlook, taste the wines nobody expected, and tell the truth about what they found. That was always the whole idea. Missouri was just the first chapter. It turns out that was enough to change everything about how they drink, travel and see. Follow along their journey on their Instagram: @mo_wine_couple.

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29

30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31

HOW MISSOURI’S GRAIN, OAK AND FOUR SEASONS SHAPE ITS BOURBON

Missouri’s white oak trees develop a dense, tight grain that’s prized for making durable, leak-resistant barrels. In fact, distilleries and wineries all over the world use Missouri white oak barrels. But the barrels don’t work alone; the environment matters just as much. Thinking about those barrels sent me back to my own glass. I poured a dram of Pinckney Bend’s Stout Cask 100 Proof Whiskey and settled onto my patio in Missouri’s sticky summer heat. Listening to “Whiskey Drinking Woman” by Nazareth and sipping a stout cask whiskey that had spent years aging through these same seasons, I couldn’t help but wonder how much our weather influences bourbon.

32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

As the seasons change, so does the whiskey inside the barrel. The summer heat pushes the spirit deeper into the oak staves, while winter cold draws it back out, carrying with it vanilla, caramel, spice and color. Over years of aging, that cycle helps develop the whiskey’s final character. Once the liquid goes into a barrel, no distiller can control what happens next. Nature takes over. That unpredictability is part of what makes whiskey making such an act of faith. You mash the grain, distill the spirit, fill the barrel, then wait years to discover whether or not you’ve created something extraordinary. Along the way, every barrel gives up a little of itself to evaporation – a phenomenon distillers call the “angel’s share.” While that lost whiskey can never be recovered, time and evaporation help shape and concentrate the whiskey that remains. A willingness to trust the process is something I saw firsthand at the award-winning distillery StilL 630 in downtown St. Louis. These guys are experts at messing around and finding out. I took a tour led by their brand ambassador Doug, who explained the distilling process with the enthusiasm of someone who genuinely loves answering questions. Doug guided us through the former Hardee’s building, past the gleaming stills and bubbling mash tanks, before leading us to a non-air-conditioned, earthy-smelling room lined with aging barrels.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF LIT TLE L AGER

To get some inspiration, I started my tasting journey at Barrel Blends Wine and Spirits in Valley Park. When I told them I was researching what makes Missouri bourbon unique, several staff members pointed me toward Ben Holladay Bourbon. I didn’t know the first thing about what separated a good bourbon from a great one, so I took them up on their recommendation. I sampled the 6-year Soft Red Wheat and the 8-year One Barrel 1856 Original. The single barrel was my clear favorite. It delivered a bold oak flavor that didn’t overpower the sweeter notes of caramel and vanilla. That pronounced oak character made me wonder where those flavors actually came from. The answer, I discovered, begins with the barrel.

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33

34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

Those casks represented experiments, milestones, and memories – from the whiskey that StilL 630 owner Dave Weglarz filled on each of his children’s birthdays (to be opened when they turn 21) to customer-owned barrels and experimental batches Doug admitted might taste incredible – or terrible. Every barrel carried its own story, and eventually, those stories became part of the whiskey. Looking around that barrel room, it became obvious why StilL 630 cared so much about protecting Missouri bourbon. They weren’t simply following the law – they had helped write it. When I asked Doug what makes September 2026

Missouri bourbon unique, he didn’t hesitate. He walked me straight over to a large sign hanging near the entrance. This sign laid out the details of Bill #266, an effort led by Dave back in 2019. The same language appears on the back of their Missouri Straight Bourbon Whiskey bottle. “Bill #266 was proudly passed into law ensuring that each batch must use 100% Missouri grown corn, and be mashed, fermented, and distilled in Missouri, then aged in new Missouri oak barrels.” To conclude our tour at StilL 630, we headed

to the bar where Amy poured us some some samples – from the raw Due Process Whiskey celebrating Doug’s time in the police force, to the “out of this world smooth” limited edition 1969 moon landing bourbon created as part of a series to honor America’s 250th birthday. After weeks of tasting and asking questions, I realized there wasn’t one answer to what sets Missouri bourbon apart. Missouri bourbon isn’t defined by a single ingredient or production method. It’s the combination of local grain, Missouri white oak, four distinct seasons, and the people determined to keep every step of the process in-state.

The day after the distillery tour, I found myself back on my patio with the bottle of StilL 630’s Missouri Straight Bourbon Whiskey I’d brought home. This time, though, I wasn’t just tasting bourbon. I could picture the Missouri corn, the Ozark white oak, the years spent expanding and contracting through hot summers and cold winters, and the people who fought to make sure “Missouri bourbon” actually meant something. The oak seemed deeper, the caramel richer, and every sip carried a little more meaning than it had the day before. The bourbon in my glass hadn’t changed – but the way I tasted it had.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

stuff to do

SEPTEMBER C O U R T ES Y O F G R E AT F O R ES T PA R K BA L LO O N R AC E

BY RILEY HANSEN

Cowboy Night Market

Wednesdays at 5 p.m. – Indo, 1641 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, indo-stl.com Grilled Thai food on the patio anyone? Chef Nick Bognar’s new pop-up is taking over the Indo patio Wednesdays through October. He’s testing out new ideas for his next restaurant, Khao Soi Cowboy, opening in 2027. The Cowboy Night Market menu is designed to encourage spontaneous restaurant plans without stress on your wallet. The patio will be walk-in only, and alongside Indo’s full menu, guests can order Bognar’s take on Thai recipes like the refreshing salad, som tum watermelon, or satay gai, a marinated chicken with spicy peanut sauce. Bognar will be grilling everything to order, right there on the patio.

Hard-Pressed Cider Fest and AppleFest

Sept. 5 and throughout September. Eckert’s Farm, 951 S. Green Mount Road, Belleville, 800.745.0513, eckerts.com September 5 kicks off a lot of fun at Eckert’s. From 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., they’ll be hosting the Hard-Pressed Cider Fest, where guests can sample more than 40 hard ciders, craft beers and specialty cocktails while enjoying live music, local artisan vendors, lawn games and food from the Cider Shed and local food trucks. The festival will also feature a Dunk the Deputy fundraiser benefiting BackStoppers, plus VIP admission and a limited Brunch & Brews add-on. Tickets are available online. For fun for the whole family, AppleFest kicks off the same day and runs every Saturday

36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

and Sunday in September from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The event features pick-your-own apples, wagon and pony rides, farm animals, children’s activities and live entertainment. Guests can also enjoy seasonal favorites, including caramel apples, cider donuts, fresh apple cider, kettle corn and homemade pies. More information is available online.

Opening Day at Eckert’s Millstadt Farm

Sept. 5 – 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., 2719 Eckert Orchard Lane, Millstadt, 618.233.0513, eckerts.com Not to be outdone, Eckert’s Millstadt Farm is holding opening day on Sept. 5. Families can enjoy pig races, pumpkin cannon shows, carnival rides, a jumping pillow, farm animals and pick-your-own apples, along with seasonal food and sweet treats. Starting the next weekend, the farm will also offer haunted hayrides and private bonfire rentals on select Friday and Saturday nights. More information is available online.

Japanese Festival

Sept. 5-7 – Missouri Botanical Garden, 4344 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.577.5100, missouribotanicalgarden.org The Japanese Festival has been a staple at the Missouri Botanical Garden for almost 50 years. Visitors will be able to enjoy sumo wrestling demonstrations, taiko drum performances and tours of the secluded Teahouse Island. This year, the garden has added new food and beverage vendors, including Fuko Matcha and Coffee, a drink cart

serving Thai and Japanese-inspired beverages, as well as Buzz’s Hawaiian Grill, which serves Japanese and Hawaiian fusion. Festival tickets start at $20 for adults with discounts available for children and garden members.

Blazed & Infused: Master of the Munchies Sept. 6 – 1-6 p.m., HandleBar, 4127 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, stlpotchefs.com

No one does infused food competitions like STL’s Pot Chef, and they’re back Labor Day weekend. Tickets range from $25-$109, allowing guests to customize their experience. All tickets include vendor access and a raffle ticket, but the Taster Pass includes tasting samples, and the VIP experience comes with goodie bags, tasting samples, live competition voting and more. Hourly raffles feature prizes like Cardinals tickets, Old Vienna merchandise, and other giveaways. The first 125 attendees will receive a free bag of Red Hot Riplets, courtesy of Old Vienna. They’ll also have fun 420-themed games and a 420 Photo Booth for guests to enjoy throughout the event.

Food Truck Friday

Sept 11 – 4-8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, St. Louis, saucemagazine.com There’s only one Food Truck Friday in September, and after that, only one more in 2026. Time is ticking if you haven’t joined thousands of St. Louisans for live music, local vendors and access to some of the city’s best food, all in one spot. The days will start getting shorter soon, but September 2026

STUFF TO DO

summer isn’t over yet. One Way Traffic Trio will provide the tunes for this event.

Grant’s Farm Oktoberfest

Sept. 11-13 & 18-20 – Grant’s Farm, 7385 Grant Road, St. Louis, 314.843.1700, grantsfarm.com

E C K E R T ' S M I L L S TA DT B O N F I R E // C O U R T ES Y O F E C K E R T ' S

Grant’s Farm is celebrating its German heritage with a festive Oktoberfest celebration. All the fun is included in a free general admission ticket, including live German music and dancing, the Tiergarten, a Deer Park ride and animal exhibits. Traditional German food is available for purchase, along with commemorative steins full of German or American beer for 21+ guests. Check out grantsfarm.com/plan-your-visit/oktoberfest/ for the full lineup of musicians.

City Nights: Oktoberfest

Sept. 18 – 7-11 p.m., City Museum, 750 N. 16th St., St. Louis, 314.231.2489, citymuseum.org

Great Forest Park Balloon Race

Sept. 18-19 – Emerson Central Fields, 5265 Wells Drive, St. Louis, greatforestparkballoonrace.com The oldest and largest free hot air balloon event takes place in Forest Park every year. In 2026, the fun is back beginning at 5 p.m. on Sept. 18. The festivities include a live DJ, food trucks and games before the balloons begin to glow at 6:45. The night ends with fireworks. Sept. 19 is race day: The fields open at 1 p.m. for more fun, but the main event is the race. Opening ceremonies begin at 3 p.m. before the hot air balloons take to the sky at 4:30. Check out the website for details about parking and lists of vendors.

Ferguson Foodies Festival

Sept. 19, 2-8 p.m., Plaza 501, 501 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, Facebook: Ferguson Foodies Festival The Ferguson Foodies Festival centers on food, culture and community. This free event has live entertainment and more than 30 vendors including food and local makers. The organizer, Chef Curtis McCann, has designed this welcoming, high-energy event with families in mind. The festival was created to bring people to Downtown Ferguson while promoting local businesses. Food vendors include Good News Brewing Company, Chillax Tap & Co. and Coy B Que. September 2026

Heroes Among Us

Pawpaw Festival

2026 marks the 25th anniversary of 9/11, and Eckert’s Millstadt Farm is thanking the local heroes who keep us safe every day, such as first responders, military members and veterans. The corn maze will officially open, and active and retired firefighters, police officers, EMS personnel, dispatchers, military members and veterans will receive complimentary admission with valid ID. Saturday’s activities include a Touch-A-Truck event from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., featuring emergency vehicles and local first responders, while a Hometown Heroes Wall will recognize community members throughout the weekend. Eckert’s will also donate $1 from every paid admission to BackStoppers. More information is available on the Eckert’s website.

Every year, the Paw Paw Lions Club hosts the Pawpaw Festival, celebrating North America’s largest tree fruit. The fruit is famed for its unique texture and flavor, almost like a custard. The event proves just how versatile the fruit is, with pawpaw beer, ice cream and cheesecake, as well as free tastings and fruits and trees for sale. They’ll also have live music, vendors, tram tours and a Kids Corner. Paw Paw, Illinois, may have less than 900 residents, but the festival draws over 5,000 people from as far away as France.

Sept. 19-20 – Eckert’s Farm, 2719 Eckert Orch Lane, Millstadt, 618.233.0513, eckerts.com

Death Becomes Her: Dinner and a Movie Sept. 26 – 6:30-10 p.m., Sister Cities Cajun, 3550 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.605.3684, stltenaciouseats.com Tenacious Eats and Sister Cities Cajun are partnering to celebrate “Death Becomes Her” before the Broadway show heads to the Fabulous Fox Theatre. Tenacious Eats will serve five courses and five cocktails themed to the movie starring Goldie Hawn and Meryl Streep. Dishes include the “Sweet Bird of Youth,” a lemon verbena and fresh lime mascarpone cream twinkie served with a Champagne cocktail. The interactive event features surprise performances, giveaways and a chance to win tickets to the Fox Theatre. Tickets are $135 if purchased in advance and $165 the day of the event. The feast takes place at Sister Cities Cajun.

Sept. 26 – 10 a.m., Paw Paw Veterans Park, 314 Chapman St., Paw Paw, Illinois, pawpawfest.org

denotes a sauce-sponsored event M I N I PAW PAW MUS E UM // P H OTO BY GA I L W I L E Y T H OMP S O N

This 21+ event celebrates all things fall. Tickets are $30 and include admission to City Museum all day long, and beginning at 7 p.m., the entire museum is adults only. That includes slides, ramps and outdoor areas. Enjoy live music by German band ÜberCool. Pretzels, brats and German potato salad will be available for purchase, plus seasonal beers such as 2nd Shift’s Oktoberfest, Third Wheel’s “It’s a Banger” Festbier, Bluewood’s Awwtoberfest, Narrow Gauge’s Third of the Way to Marz, Maplewood’s Festbier and 4 Hands’ Oktoberfest and Pumpkin Ale. Art City will be onsite, leading keepsake collages. Tickets are on sale in advance and day of the event.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

September 2026

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39