tajadas con queso at fritanga nicaraguan cuisine
August 2024
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AUGUST 2024 • VOLUME 24, ISSUE 8 Chris Keating Amy Hyde Jessica Rogen Iain Shaw Evan Sult Lauren Healey Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Lauren Healey, Izaiah Johnson, Meera Nagarajan, Christina Musgrave, Mabel Suen, Michelle Volansky CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexa Beattie, Lauren Healey, Ileana Martinez, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky DIRECTORS OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Rachel Hoppman, Elizabeth Rowland OWNER & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER PUBLISHER EDITOR AT LARGE MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR DIGITAL EDITOR DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.
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editors’ picks
26 FIRST LOOK
9 EAT THIS
by iain shaw
The cachapas at Amaizing Arepa Bar
by lauren healey 13 HIT LIST 3 new places to try this month
by lauren healey, iain shaw and michelle volansky
Brasas
30 YOUR GUIDE TO CENTRAL AMERICAN CUISINE by ileana martinez
last bite 47 LANDMARK Venice Cafe
COVER DETAILS ¡VIVA SAZÓN! Tajadas con queso at Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine. Learn more on p. 30. PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by alexa beattie 52 STUFF TO DO THIS AUGUST by michelle volansky
42 ’QUE TIPS Local barbecue spots to heat up your summer
by alexa beattie
17 DRINK THIS Herbarium’s sparkling herbal teas
by iain shaw 19 IN THE KNOW Swade Cannabis’ Best Buds dinner series
by lauren healey 22 CHEF TOUR Chef Melanie Hye Jin Meyer’s favorite restaurants
by alexa beattie
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
fritanga nicaraguan cuisine owner orlando hidalgo
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Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.
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Eat This
Arepas may be the obvious choice at a restaurant called Amaizing Arepa Bar, but it’s the cachapas that have consistently stolen our hearts since the Venezuelan restaurant opened in downtown St. Louis at the beginning of the year. The massive sweet corn pancakes envelop chewy, toothsome mozzarella, and they’re topped with salty feta (a stand-in for Venezuela’s queso llanero) and a generous drizzle of nata (Venezuelan-style milk cream) plus your choice of meat. We favor pork with the cachapas, but the chicken, beef and pork belly are all worthy options; vegetarians can opt for plantains instead of meat. Pay an extra $1.50 to upgrade your filling from mozzarella to the queso de mano, a soft white cheese typical of Venezuelan cuisine.
PHOTO BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE
500 N. 14th St., St. Louis, 407.218.9629, Facebook: amaizingarepabar
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PHOTO BY R.J. HARTBECK
hit list
3 new places to try this month
an assortment of baked treats at damn fine hand pies
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this page, clockwise, from left: damn fine hand pies co-owner madeline hissong; sandwiches and sliders at burger 809; the limited-time thai chicken fajita nachos at burger 809
DAMN FINE HAND PIES This popular Tower Grove Farmers’ Market bakery now has a corner of Shaw to call its own, and they make it count. It’s a cute little space, with a chessboard floor, a few leather stools to perch on by the window and a patio with candystriped umbrellas and colorful chairs. The menu of baked-in-house items offers so much more than the eponymous pastries, but those pies are blessed with a crust so memorably rich and flaky that you won’t want to skip them. The hand pies offered change regularly, but we enjoyed a recent grilled summer veggie option with grilled yellow summer squash, zucchini, Marconi peppers, red onion, mozzarella and basil. The brown butter apple fritter is a decadent treat, oozing with diced appleand-cinnamon filling. Sourdough brioche doughnuts and the market-favorite cake doughnuts only amplify the temptation. The Damn Fine BLT was our pick of the sandwiches, a brioche sandwich filled with thick bacon, fresh and flavorful tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and the shop’s creamy signature aioli. 4000 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, Instagram: @damnfinehandpies
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BURGER 809 Burger 809’s new location has reinvigorated the Terrace View space at Citygarden in downtown St. Louis. The classic slider is pretty much a perfect, albeit plain, burger with plenty of gooey cheese and a flavorful patty. We’re also into the Hi Thai chicken slider, which is made with chicken breast basted with sweetand-spicy Thai sauce and served atop a bed of coleslaw and pickles. Don’t be fooled by the term “slider” here – while the portion sizes may not be the gargantuan servings we’re used to here in the States, these so-called sliders are a reasonably sized meal for one person. We also really enjoyed the Thai chicken fajita nachos, which this time paired that sweet-and-spicy Thai chicken with creamy cheese sauce and fresh veggies. However, this dish is set to leave the menu at the end of Burger 809’s soft opening phase, so visit before Aug. 9 if you want to try them. 808 Chestnut St., St. Louis, burger809.com
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DAMN FINE HAND PIES PHOTO BY R.J. HARTBECK; BURGER 809 PHOTOS BY LAUREN HEALEY; MEAD HALL PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
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MEAD HALL Mead Hall, the newest outpost of owner and veteran homebrewer Mike Fuson, specializes in – you guessed it – mead. With roots that may date back to Africa over 20,000 years ago, the honey-based beverage is possibly the oldest fermented drink in history. Fuson’s clean, not-too-sweet meads are perfumed with wonderful things such as raspberries and blackberries, orange blossom, cherry and chipotle. Ordering a flight is a must, specifically the samplers of their beautifully unique whiskey and port-barrel-aged meads. The 3,000-square-foot tasting room’s decor is clean and simple with communal seating at heavy wood tables, string lights glowing overhead and a bold, bright mural featuring their bear mascot warming up the space. 2236 1st Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 314.780.6090, drinkmeadhall.com
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Although some of summer’s most fun moments are those accompanied by a frosty, foamy lager, a chilled glass of wine or a frozen margarita, it’s good form to have a few go-to nonalcoholic drinks in your rotation. Sugary sodas have their place, but their cloying nature can become tiresome. In contrast, Herbarium’s line of sparkling herbal teas, brewed with botanicals from Flourish Farmstead, are light and refreshing. The bubbles are restrained, making themselves known but never dominating the party. We especially liked the ginger-roselle tea, with the roselle (a member of the hibiscus family) giving the drink a distinct shade of pink and a hint of tartness. That’s balanced by the ginger’s mild spice, but everything here is in balance. The lavender-lemongrass flavor offers a solid alternative option, but why not have both? With no alcohol and only 40 calories per 12-ounce can, you can afford to have a second. drinkherbarium.com August 2024 August 2024
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IN THE KNOW THE NEW FRONTIERS OF CANNABIS-INFUSED DINING BY L AU REN H EALEY With the legalization of recreational marijuana in Missouri, the prevalence of edible cannabis is growing rapidly. Now, thanks to Missouri’s pioneering dispensaries and chefs around town, edibles are no longer limited to candies and sodas, with infused dishes and full meals increasingly available. A few months ago, local dispensary Swade Cannabis launched Best Buds, a series of infused dinners held in collaboration with some of St. Louis’ favorite local restaurants and chefs. The infusions are created via a new product called “Stiribles,” an unflavored, watersoluble THC powder from the High Five Edibles brand manufactured by Teal Labs. The series’ initial run of dates concluded in July with a dinner headed up by James Beard Award-nominated chef Nick Bognar at Indo: Tickets for the event sold out within one day. Bognar said getting on board with the trend was a no-brainer for him and his team. “To me, it’s very exciting for dining in general,” he said. “There’s a huge and growing group of people who don’t drink at all, including a lot of us at the restaurant, so this adds an extra layer of inclusion and allows them to enjoy a fun social interaction that’s not centered around drinking.” Bognar infused two sauces for his dinner: nikiri, a slow-cooked soy glaze; and a mango sweet chile sauce. Accompanying various dishes, each sauce included 5 milligrams of THC per serving, allowing guests a choose-your-own-adventure of sorts in regards to just how high they could get. However, plenty of non-infused food and drink options were also offered, helping diners stay within their limits. Current laws state that no alcohol can be served in tandem with cannabis-infused food and drink, further ensuring intoxication doesn’t get out of hand. “Everyone can have a great time, get to bed early and go to work the next day and not be hungover at all,” Bognar said, adding he would love to make dinners like these a regular occurrence. El Molino del Sureste hosted an earlier installment in the Best Buds series, and co-owner Jeff Henry said he is open to similar collaborations in the future. “The event was well-attended and guests left happy, although I’m sure they arrived a little unsure of what to expect,” he said. “We tried to set a vibe that meshed well with the concept, selecting music and lighting that accentuated the pleasant buzz provided by the infusion.”
PHOTOS BY BUCKET LIST CREATIVE
While no specific plans have been announced for future Best Buds dinners, the team at Swade Cannabis intends to continue the cannabis dining trend in some way. And they’re not alone. In addition to the Best Buds series, The Chartreuse Dinner Club has been leading the charge for cannabis-infused fine dining in a more private setting, in chef Aliya Waldman’s home in downtown St. Louis. Bookings for her dinners can be made via DM on Instagram or by email. Swade Cannabis, swadecannabis.com The Chartreuse Dinner Club, Instagram: @thechartreusedinnerclub August 2024 August 2024
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Akar
“Chef Bernie Lee is so talented. He’s always creating new items, adding different things to the menu. And everything is so beautiful.” 7641 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.553.9914, akarstl.com
Eat DuckBill
“I like this place because they run their shop like I do – inside a bar [at Platypus]. Great fried chicken and fried tofu nuggets. My favorite thing to do on Mondays when we close early is
take some of my food there for the crew and then do a bit of karaoke.” 4501 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.799.0662, Instagram: @eatduckbill
La Patisserie Chouquette
“You can taste the passion in absolutely everything [chef-owner] Simone Faure makes. Her croissants, her macarons. ... Plus, this is a woman who works her ass off.” 1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com
INDO PHOTO COURTESY OF INDO; MELANIE HYE JIN MEYER PHOTO BY NEETA SATAM; WUDON PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN
wudon
chef tour WITH MELANIE HYE JIN MEYER It’s a rollicking ride through Melanie Hye Jin Meyer’s list of favorite restaurants. Like the flavors at her micro-eatery Tiny Chef (located inside The Silver Ballroom in Bevo Mill), Meyer’s dining tastes are also varied – beautifully influenced both by her Korean heritage and her many friends in the local restaurant industry. Meyer grew up in Missouri, the adopted child of white parents, and found her Korean birth family much later on. “For a long time, I didn’t cook Korean food because I didn’t feel Korean enough,” she said. “I felt like a fraud.” Thankfully, times have changed. In the five short years since Tiny Chef opened, Meyer has made a name for herself in this discerning epicurean city. And in doing so, she’s defeated imposter syndrome comprehensively. While talking about her favorite St. Louis restaurants, Meyer couldn’t help but mention Tiny Chef. “Am I allowed to say myself?” she said. “It’s just that I’m proud of what I do, and I want to share.” Aside from her own place, then, here are some of the St. Louis restaurants that inspire Meyer most. – Alexa Beattie
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Taberu
“This is not a restaurant, but a sushi business run by Heidi Skye Hamamura. Not only is her sushi completely gorgeous, but it takes so much time to make. She’s booked out months in advance. Be sure to message her!” taberustl.com
Brasserie by Niche
“Oh, God. A St. Louis classic.” 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com
Indo
“Love it. Love it. You need to charge what you are worth, and everything is worth it for this talent. I say get everything!” 1641D Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.9333, indo-stl.com
SOUP DUMPLINGS STL PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN; EAT DUCKBILL PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Wudon Korean BBQ Restaurant
“Wudon has a small menu, but it hits every time. It really smacks.”
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1261 Castillons Arcade Plaza, Creve Coeur, 314.628.1010, wudonkorean-bbq.weeblyte.com
Blissfully Popped Popcorn
“I love popcorn so much that I’ve been known to buy it at the movie theater and take it straight home without even seeing the movie. The butter! The salt! Blissfully Popped is a small, woman-owned business, and I love how [Janee Cawthon] does it.” 7318 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.495.5782, blissfullypopped.com
Soup Dumplings STL
“This is a small menu, but don’t be fooled by small menus. Everything is homemade, everything is delicious and everything requires hours and hours of prep.” 8110 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.445.4605, Facebook: Soup Dumplings STL
from top: eat duckbill and soup dumplings stl
Mai Lee
“Qui Tran is kind of like the Asian community’s undisclosed big brother, always there to help out. He’s amazing. My favorite is his
Vietnamese pancake (banh xeo), which you wrap in lettuce. I love anything wrapped in lettuce. Give me anything in lettuce.” 8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835,
maileestl.com
La Catrina
“This family-run business has one of my favorites: Catrina’s Alambre is your choice of meat with peppers and onions and queso. Tortillas on the side.” 5220 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3357, lacatrinastl.com
Sushi Hana
“This is sushi run by a Korean family. It’s a No. 1 spot, and has a Korean menu as well.” 8809 Gravois Road, Affton, 314.257.9079, sushihanamo.com
China Bistro
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tea, Chinese tea, Korean skincare, and also this: China Bistro. Go there to shop, splurge on skin products and then have some mapo tofu with fish and chile sauce. But don’t forget the skin products; Korean skincare goes hard!” Inside Pan-Asia Supermarket, 14246 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.220.3144
Joo Joo Restaurant & Karaoke
“Joo Joo also hits. Its menu is more extensive and it has a private karaoke room. Eat dinner, sing with a friend.” 12937 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.469.1999, joojoo.us
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First Look Brasas
BY I A I N S H AW
Building on the Peruvian rotisserie chicken concept chef-owner Andrew Cisneros first work-shopped at Original J’s Tex-Mex and Barbecue and later during a series of pop-ups, Brasas has now opened in the former 12oh7 Herban Eatery space in the Delmar Loop. The restaurant’s specialty is Cisneros’ take on traditional Peruvian pollo a la brasa, served with a selection of sides and sauces, with the menu also offering a few hits from Jalea and other Peruvian dishes.
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Brasas’ interior is comfortable and casual in comparison with some of the city’s more refined restaurants, but it’s a nice place to get your fingers dirty eating rotisserie chicken and dipping yuca fries gleefully into the delicious array of sauces offered here. The art displayed on the walls provides clues about the Brasas experience before you even see a menu. Photography and paintings featuring Peruvian sporting and cultural references sit alongside assorted poultry-related art and advertising prints (including the large
Brasas logo piece facing the bar). Like so much of what Cisneros (a 2021 Sauce Ones to Watch honoree) does at his other restaurants – Jalea in St. Charles, and the Sanguchitos by Brasas kitchen inside Perennial Artisan Ales’ South City brewpub – Brasas’ signature pollo a la brasa offers an elevated perspective on a traditional Peruvian favorite. The chicken is brined for two hours, then marinated for anywhere from 13 to 16 hours. The marinade includes lime
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juice, beer, panca paste (a guajillo dried pepper paste), mirasol paste (a dried yellow pepper paste) and assorted herbs and spices including rosemary, oregano, cumin and fresh black pepper. There’s more to the marinade, but “those are the main ingredients that you actually taste in the chicken,” said Cisneros. After marinating, the birds spend about two-and-a-half hours cooking low-andslow on the rotisserie. “We can do about 35 chickens in two-and-a-half hours,” Cisneros said. Most of the hard work is done on a gas rotisserie, but the chicken is finished over Japanese charcoal on one of two large yakitori grills. Diners can order quarter-, half- or whole chickens, with the option of adding one side or two. The sides include rotisserie potatoes cooked in chicken drippings, crispy steak fries with delicious roccoto pepper fry sauce, puree de papa (mashed potatoes with Boursin cheese), Peruvian bean stew, maduros (sweet plantains) and more. Whatever side you choose, your chicken will come accompanied by three spectacular sauces: the huancaina (pepper cheese sauce), the roccoto, and the cilantroinfused aji verde.
PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN
When Sauce named Jalea our No. 2 Best New Restaurant of 2022, we identified the restaurant’s sauces as among its biggest assets, and Cisneros seems intent on repeating that feat at Brasas. Brasas’ menu also includes a number of items that are either fixtures at Jalea, or which have been rotated through the menu at the St. Charles restaurant. There’s the essential ceviche in leche de tigre (“tiger’s milk”) marinade, with the option of carretillero (fried pieces of calamari and/or shrimp) added on top; aji amarillo chicken “curry”; grilled pork belly with garlic rice; and chaufa aeropuerto, Peruvian fried rice with
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pork belly, rib-eye, shrimp, egg omelet, sesame, Nikkei sauce and Passenger chile crisp. The menu also includes additions like the smoked wings, which use a punchy, complex dry rub, and papa rellena, a potato croquette stuffed with a flavorsome beef stew filling. Brasas opened with four signature cocktails, as well as beers including Waska, the Peruvian-style lager brewed with heirloom quinoa that Perennial Artisan Ales created in collaboration with Cisneros. Cisneros said the cocktail selection will be added to as time goes on, supplementing drinks like the pisco sour, the Chilcano (pisco, ginger ale, lime and bitters) and cocktails rich with fresh fruit, including the Watermelon Firecracker (tequila, watermelon and lime) and the strawberry-flavored Gin and Berry Smash. The approximately 1,100-square-foot restaurant seats 21 diners, with five tables and seven spots at the bar. Table reservations are available on Tock, while the bar is reserved for walk-in customers. Cisneros said he plans to add two patio tables in front of the restaurant in the near future, which will increase the capacity by another four diners. The rise of what Cisneros describes as a “young scene” of Latin American restaurants in the United States – Argentinian steakhouses, Brazilian steakhouses, Colombian concepts and much more – is something he’s encouraged by, and he identifies with these restaurants: locally owned and original while also being authentic and true to themselves. “For us, that’s awesome,” he said. “We’re doing Peruvian food our way, but respecting traditions and being original to ourselves.” 6138 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.256.1937, brasas-stl.com
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Your Guide to
Central
American
Cuisine
These St. Louis restaurants know their tajadas from their baleadas
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or several years and many election cycles, we’ve heard Latino
communities in the United States described as “a mosaic, not a monolith.” What better way to celebrate these rich cultures than through the regional cuisines that contribute to their diversity? The food of Central America, for example, has evolved over centuries into a unique blend of its Indigenous, African and Spanish roots. Central America’s simple and soulful meals, built on gentle flavors, offer a comforting contrast to the often fiery fare of its northern neighbor, Mexico. Here, we highlight three St. Louis restaurants that serve the soul-satisfying flavors of two Central American countries, Honduras and Nicaragua, and pick out a few dishes brimming with fresh ingredients and a home-cooked feel.
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pollo con tajadas at sabor k-tracho
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jolman and kelin nuñez at sabor k-tracho
Pollo con tajadas & sopa de mariscos
Sabor K-Tracho With its brightly colored mural across one wall, Spanish-language improv broadcast across three TV screens, and charming parakeet figurines suspended from the ceiling, it’s hard not to smile walking into Sabor K-Tracho (pronounced “Catracho,” an affectionate nickname for a Honduran person). In March 2023, the Nuñez family — made up of brothers Jolman, Edgardo and Ever Nuñez and two of their spouses, Kelin and Rachel — opened this Honduran restaurant in Maryland Heights. This is the family’s second restaurant, having had success at sister restaurant Sueño Latino on Cherokee Street. One of their crown jewels is the pollo con tajadas
(literally, “chicken with slices”), a staple Honduran dish beloved across the country. At K-Tracho, juicy fried chicken — your choice of leg or breast — takes center stage dressed in a tangy mayo-ketchup sauce and light tomato sauce. Nestled beneath lies a bed of tajadas, golden-fried slices of green bananas, which are tender and cushiony against the chicken’s crunchy exterior. A vibrant slaw of cabbage, pickled red onion, beets and chismol (a condiment similar to pico de gallo) adds a burst of much-needed freshness and ties the elements together.
wait. Be prepared for the enormous serving size — seriously, this thing is a giant. A treasure trove of nourishing ingredients awaits beneath the creamy coconut and seafood broth: crab, tilapia, mussels and perfectly tender shrimp, all swimming alongside starchy companions like yuca, plantain and corn. A squeeze of lime and a spoonful of rice soaked in the flavorful broth completes a food experience that will transport you straight to a Honduran beach. Leave yourself with leftovers to take home — you’ll definitely want them!
Sabor K-Tracho doesn’t stop there. For seafood lovers, the restaurant’s Sunday special, the sopa de mariscos con coco, is worth the week-long
2286 McKelvey Road, Maryland Heights, 314.787.7440, saborktrachorestaurantmo.com
Baleadas & pupusas
Merendero Las Catrachitas When we last featured Merendero Las Catrachitas, a Honduran restaurant in Princeton Heights, we focused on how its daily rotation of hearty soups can warm you on your coldest days. However, its menu features plenty of options that can be enjoyed year-round. In its simplest form, baleada sencilla, the iconic baleada consists of a large, fluffy housemade flour tortilla that envelops creamy refried beans, Honduran sour cream and crumbled white cheese. For added decadence, you may opt to include scrambled eggs and additional proteins like beef or chicken.
Merendero Las Catrachitas also serves pupusas, a griddled flatbread of corn masa stuffed with a variety of fillings, such as Oaxacan cheese, refried red beans, or loroco (a type of edible flower bud). They are most often recognized as a staple of El Salvador, with the nation declaring the pupusa its national dish and having a specific day to celebrate it. However, just as corn is revered across Central America, so too are versions of the pupusa, and Honduran chefs in St. Louis execute them phenomenally. The pupusa revuelta at Merendero Las Catrachitas is filled with cheese, beans and
chicharrón (pork that is rendered, crisped, then ground) and grilled on a comal. One of our favorite parts of a pupusa is when the cheese has oozed onto the blistering comal and turned crisp. Be sure to wash down the salt and fattiness with horchata de morro, Central America’s more complex, nutty and chocolatey version of the refreshment.
5639 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.391.9192, Facebook: Merendero Las Catrachitas
baleadas at sabor k-tracho
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churrasco nica at fritanga nicaraguan cuisine
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Canoa de maduro & churrasco Nica
Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine This Nicaraguan restaurant in Fox Park has truly become a St. Louis institution. Owner Orlando Hidalgo opened Fritanga in 2007, and his deep passion for serving the dishes of his upbringing has helped him foster genuine connections with clientele along the way. One such dish, the canoa de maduro (literally, “plantain canoe”), is a sweet, ripened plantain overflowing with your choice of beef, pork or chicken and topped with melted mozzarella cheese. It illustrates the pairing of ripe plantains with savory elements that is well-loved in Nicaragua and throughout the Caribbean. But those newer to this flavor combination needn’t be apprehensive; the harmonious blend of sweet, tart and savory is sure to win you over – especially when served with beef. Accompanied by sides of chileno (a smoky pickled onion and carrot salsa) and housemade garlicky chimichurri, this dish is comfort food at its finest. We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the churrasco Nica. Skirt steak is chargrilled and topped with the same vibrant chimichurri, having reached tender perfection thanks to its citrus marinade. It’s no wonder this dish has earned the top spot on the list of chef’s specials. Add a side of gallo pinto (red beans and rice) and yuca al mojo de ajo (boiled cassava root with garlic) and you’re well on your way to a traditional feast that tastes like it was prepared by a doting abuelita.
2208 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.7777, fritangastl.com
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JASON ISBELL AND THE 400 UNIT PLUS SHEMEKIA COPELAND
thursday, august 8
TURNPIKE TROUBADOURS PLUS AMERICAN AQUARIUM, TYLER HALVERSON
thursday, august 15
STL JAZZ FEST
MARSHMELLO
PLUS FLOSSTRADAMUS, VIPERACTIVE, iDROPPA
friday, august 9 AGES 16+
PAPER AIRPLANE REQUEST TOUR
BEN FOLDS PLUS LINDSEY KRAFT
sunday, august 18
STL JAZZ FEST
NIGHT 1 FEAT. GREGORY PORTER, THE COMEDY OF ALONZO BODDEN, ERIC MARIENTHAL BAND FEAT. NIKI HARIS
ERIC MARIENTHAL BAND FEAT. MINDI ABAIR
friday, august 23
saturday, august 24
BRONCO PLUS MOJADO
SUNDAY, august 25
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NIGHT 2 FEAT. BRIAN CULBERTSON, THE COMEDY OF ALONZO BODDEN,
HOWARD JONES & ABC
PLUS HAIRCUT ONE HUNDRED
MONDAY, august 26
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’QUE TIPS by Alexa Beattie
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local barbecue spots we’re excited about this summer Hot sun, sizzling grills and saucy fingers: It’s barbecue season, folks, an area St. Louis excels in. We’re picky here about our ‘que which, traditionally, isn’t dry-rubbed and smoked, but grilled then sauced. This means – believe it or not – our city, per capita, is said to get through more barbecue sauce than anywhere else in the country. Isn’t that a notch in our (tightening) belt? Here, then, are a few recently opened and forthcoming options — both saucy and smoky — to tuck your bibs in for.
Fourth City Barbecue
Anyone who’s in the mood for some brisket-smothered fries, raise your hands. Can it get any more delicious than this, or is there a more glorious twist on meat-and-potatoes dining? Located on Cherokee Street in Fortune Teller Bar, this scratch-made, all-wood craft barbecue tells it like it is: There’s nothing like white oak or hickory smoke to flavor meat. The sad thing is, the aforementioned meat and potatoes is not on the regular menu (no, you can’t have it every day), but it is one of the specials which change weekly. The mainstays here are things like barbecue meat platters, sandwiches on Damn Fine Hand Pies buns, and sides like small salads and cornbread with hot honey butter. Slabs of brisket smoke for 12 hours, rest for another 12, and result in succulent meat with just the right amount of juicy fat.
PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
Although Darnell Banks has yet to operate his business from a brick-and-mortar, he is becoming known across the city for some pretty excellent barbecue. With his trailer, he has catered events large and small, from the Saint Louis Zoo’s Zoofari to backyard cookouts. Banks and his wife Brukelle launched DeeBeeQue’s in 2019. He is best known, he said, for chicken wings, rib tips, potato salad and his fromscratch, tomato-based sauce. “I’m a blend of smoking and grilling,” Banks said, adding that he’s been told his pulled pork is some of the best around. deebeequestl.com
Expat BBQ
Out in Fairview Heights and O’Fallon, Illinois, it’s all about fish, chicken and barbecue. Opened earlier this year, Smoke & Kettle is the latest concept from pitmaster David Sandusky of Belleville’s Beast Craft BBQ Co. Here, Sandusky is concentrating on beasts of sea and field, specifically battered cod, shrimp and cornbread-crusted catfish; perhaps even some snoots. But there’s a surprise element to all of this, because Sandusky says he’s not quite ready to divulge the specific details of his menu. Know that you’re in good hands, with a chef whose reputation for quality barbecue precedes him, and make the trip.
The latest concept from Niche Food Group is aiming to open its split-level space at City Foundry STL by midAugust. Executive chef Sam Nawrocki explained the concept as being “like culinary Mad Libs.” This (sort of ) means Expat will offer an avant-garde take on barbecue by combining flavors and techniques from around the world. “Think of it as a pitmaster cooking barbecue in someone else’s pantry,” Nawrocki said. If this results in the kind of creative artistry that can come of “making do with what you have,” then we are pretty excited about all this. Nawrocki threw out a few examples: A Midwestern barbecue sauce becomes far more interesting by switching out molasses for black bean paste, and a rack of ribs becomes 1,000 times more delicious by adding Chinese five-spice to its rub. Yeah, I think we’re getting it. “Food naturally evolves with travel,” Nawrocki said. “Authenticity is a moving target.”
Multiple locations, smokeandkettle.com
3730 Foundry Way, St. Louis, expatstl.com
2635 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.669.6505, fourthcitybbq.com
Smoke & Kettle
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DeeBeeQue Barbeque & Catering
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
VENICE CAFE
PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
BY A L E X A B E AT T I E
Ask anyone in town about Venice Cafe and chances are their eyes get really wide. Or, if they’ve known this Benton Park bar a long time, they may smile a warm but faintly sympathetic smile. It’s like you’ve mentioned an old, mutual friend who, like Peter Pan on a tremendous quantity of ’shrooms, has never grown up. On the other hand, any attempt to describe the place to a newcomer tends to fail dismally. But, on the off-chance that you’ve never been, we’re going to try.
It’s a wonder, at this point, that there’s any room to sit down, or even get inside Venice Cafe. Owner Jeff Lockheed has been decorating this space ever since he bought the Pestalozzi Street property as his residence in 1978. He and his friend, artist Paul Cuba (who died in 2002) opened Venice Cafe in 1988. “We didn’t know what we were doing,” Lockheed said. That clearly isn’t true. With an art degree and a resume as colorful as the walls and floors around him (he was both a teacher and a flight attendant for a time), he has – bit by tiny bit – created an
institution. He credits his parents for his wacko, kaleidoscopic eclecticism: “They were very straight and I didn’t express myself much at home. So when I left, I took off,” Lockheed explained. He admits he doesn’t stick to the rules. Yes, you can make a boat into a patio bar. Yes, you can suspend a pair of plastic legs from a ceiling. You can mosaic a wall with kitschy ashtrays or even trim it with “a thousand” cigarette (or doobie) lighters. Somewhere in here there’s a costume-wearing tortoise called Big Tiny.
Somewhere there’s a Doric column topped with bunnies, a few Virgin Marys and (if I’m not mistaken) a palm-sized Maria von Trapp. Cow skulls and bird skulls are recurring themes, and so are tailors’ dummies, each stuck with a pirate’s chestworth of buttons and gems. “I’m an alley shopper,” Lockheed said. “I add stuff all the time, often in such small ways people don’t even know they’re not seeing it.” Naturally, this slightly renegade party atmosphere has attracted a diverse crowd over the years. But the mood is a little
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more demure now than it has been in the past. “We’ve had our share of drunken idiots,” Lockheed said. “We were always this weird place in the city that people needed to check out.” For the first eight years, he had to employ a guard. Contributing in large part to Lockheed’s “private Idaho” are the open mic nights and the live hipster rock. The bar is, and always has been, cash only. It’s important to note that much of the real art here – in particular, the human forms carved from limestone and other
materials – is Lockheed’s own work. It’s hard at times not to feel like it’s a bit of a shame this more serious beauty is lost in the shuffle. But if we remember the essential, symbiotic relationships between play and creativity, and creativity and joy, we begin to understand that a trip to Venice Cafe is much more than a wacky night out on the town. It is – more importantly – a peep inside an artist’s mind, and a glimpse of its potential. 1903 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, 314.772.5594, thevenicecafe.com
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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O
AUGUST
PHOTO OF FESTIVAL OF NATIONS BY ALEX FISH; FRANKIE MARTIN'S GARDEN COURTESY FRANKIE MARTIN’S; SEOUL TACO COURTESY OF SEOUL TACO
BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
Grub & Groove at Francis Park
Aug. 10 – 2 to 10:30 p.m., Francis Park, Eichelberger Street & Donovan Avenue, St. Louis, Facebook: Grub and Groove Enjoy food, drink, kids activities and music all day long at this neighborhood festival. Proceeds go to the South City Improvement Corporation nonprofit and are returned to the community surrounding Francis Park. Free admission.
5372 St. Charles Street, Cottleville, 636.244.2420, frankiemartinsgarden.com Celebrate the start of the school year at Frankie Martin’s Garden with food trucks, live music and lots of activities for the kids, including a bubble bus, inflatables, face painting, balloon animals and more. Tickets available online.
Parties on the Plaza rocks the 10,000-square-foot green space in the center of Westport Plaza on the third Thursday of each month through October. This month, enjoy live music from Danger Party while playing yard games and sipping cold drinks at the bar. Free admission.
Blues at the Arch Festival Blues Brunch
Amari Blind Tasting Master Class
Aug. 16 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Like tough choices? Tower Grove Park offers bites and sips from local food trucks on select Fridays this summer through early fall. More than 20 of our favorite trucks will be there and, luckily, you can’t go wrong with any of them. Free admission.
End of Summer Bash at Frankie Martin’s Garden
Parties on the Plaza
Aug. 11 – 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., 612North, 612 N. Second St., St. Louis, 612north.com Wrap up the Blues at the Arch Festival with an upscale brunch buffet set to live blues music with a picturesque riverfront view of the St. Louis Arch. A portion of all sales will be donated to the Gateway Arch Park Foundation. Tickets available online.
Aug. 11 – 1 to 4 p.m., Frankie Martin’s Garden,
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Aug. 11 – 2 to 4:30 p.m., The Gin Room, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.3411, natashasginroom.com Join the cocktail experts at The Gin Room on South Grand for a master class like no other ever hosted in St. Louis. Industry folks and consumers alike have the opportunity to revisit some of their favorites and be exposed to new herbal liqueurs. Tickets available online.
Aug. 15 – 4:30 to 7:30 p.m., Westport Plaza, 111 W. Port Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights, westportstl.com
Sauce Food Truck Friday
Crush Festival at St. James Winery
Aug. 17 – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., St. James Winery, 540 State Route B, St. James, 800.280.9463, stjameswinery.com Take the short drive down to St. James Winery for their
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annual celebration of Missouri grape harvest season. Bring the whole family and compete in an old-fashioned grape stomp out, tour the cellars, and tap your toes to live music in the beautifully landscaped wine and beer garden. Free admission.
Beer Choir at Das Bevo
Aug. 17 – 7 p.m., Das Bevo, 4749 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.832.2251, dasbevo.com Beer Choir is a social singing experience that is open to all — no talent required. Grab a beer, grab a bite and participate in hilarious drinking songs and games in the biergarten. Free admission.
Meat Bingo at Alpha Brewing Co.
Aug. 22 – 7 p.m., Alpha Brewing Co., 4310 Fyler Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.2337, alphabrewingcompany.com Play Meat Bingo every last Thursday of the month at Alpha Brewing Co. for your chance to win meats from Kenrick’s. Sheets are $1 for two cards per round and players can play
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as many sheets at once as they like. Free admission.
Festival of Nations
Aug. 24 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Aug. 25 – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4257 Northeast Drive, St. Louis, festofnations.com St. Louis is home to people with roots spanning the globe. Festival of Nations celebrates the city’s cultural diversity by featuring music, art and flavors from around the world. Come stay a while and absorb the live performances, exhibitions and, of course, the food. Free admission.
Sip’n Serve Drag Brunch
Aug. 24 – noon, City Winery, 3730 Foundry Way, Suite 158, St. Louis, 314.678.5060, citywinery.com/st-louis The August edition of City Winery’s monthly drag brunch takes you on a musical time warp. Local hosts Moxie Contin-Rose and Lucy Couture guide guests on a musical tour through the decades while the mimosas stay flowing. Tickets available online.
Paws 4 Pints
Aug. 24 – noon to 3 p.m., Budweiser Brew House, 601 Clark Ave., Unit 101, St. Louis, 314.241.5575, stlballparkvillage.com Bring your four-legged friends to this Ballpark Village happy hour featuring adoptable dogs from Stray Rescue of St. Louis, discounted drink specials, local dog bakeries and vendors, and more. Free admission.
Alton Food Truck Festival
Aug. 24 – 4 to 8 p.m., 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 618.463.3580, altonriverfrontamphitheater.com Missed Sauce Food Truck Friday in Tower Grove Park or just want some more food truck action? Hop across the river to the Alton Amphitheater, where a fabulous lineup of food trucks from around the region converge. Free admission.
denotes a sauce-sponsored event
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