November 2016

save room for

DESSERT

from left, strawberry shortcake, matchachocolate cookie and salted caramel gelato pops from porano pasta, p. 26

GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS (FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER)

SNACK

HOT SAUCE

ATTACK

B L I N G

P. 36

P. 33

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

November 2016

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

T U R K E Y D AY C U

B A

N

P. 25 FREE, NOVEMBER 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1

2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3

N O V E M B E R 2 016 • VO LUM E 16, ISSU E 11 What do you do with leftover Thanksgiving turkey?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL ASSOCIATE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Definitely some sort of pie - a Thanksgiving leftovers turkey pot pie, or maybe a shepherd’s pie

FACT CHECKERS ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2016 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Anything involving Tiffany Leong massive amounts of Catherine Klene cranberry sauce Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Dave Moore, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt Berkley, Olivia Dansky, Isabella Espinoza, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Tiffany Leong, Marianne Moore, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie Pearson, Daniel Puma, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Stacy Schultz, Lauren Schumacker, Amrita Song Kristin Schultz, Lauren Schumacker Allyson Mace I like to throw Jill George, Angie Rosenberg it into a hash, omelets, soups or Jill George even a plate of Amy Hyde nachos.

Amy Hyde Elizabeth Bruchhauser, Olivia Dansky, Isabella Espinoza, Brianna Velarde

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2.50 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME__________________________________________________________ STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________ CITY_______________________________ STATE ______ ZIP______________

SEND A $30 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau

4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

•

St. Louis, MO 63103 November 2016

contents NOVEMBER 2016

editors' picks

dine & drink

7

19

EAT THIS

A SEAT AT THE BAR

Strawberry Mousseline at La Bonne Bouchée

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by heather hughes

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera and ted and jamie kilgore

9

HIT LIST 3 new places to try this month

by heather hughes and meera nagarajan

REVIEWS

21

ELIXIR Pressed to impress

by lauren schumacker 22

VEGETIZE IT Pumpkin pie

11

NEW AND NOTABLE Kounter Kulture

by michael renner 14

by kellie hynes 25

MAKE THIS Turkey Cuban

by dee ryan

LUNCH RUSH Pizzeoli

LAST COURSE

by andrew barrett 17

NIGHTLIFE Ryder’s Tavern

by matt berkley

38

a smattering of kounter kulture dishes p. 11

STUFF TO DO by olivia dansky and isabella espinoza 40

WHAT I DO Mark "Garlic" Brown

by heather hughes

Features 26

SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT by stacy schultz

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER TO SEE THE GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS. Dad can only wear so many ties, but no one will forget the time dinner featured black truffles and foie gras. Ditch the expensive gifts this year and give your family an extravagant meal instead. See p. 16 for all the recipes, bottles and tips you need for a big, rich holiday.

Cover photo by Carmen Troesser

33

SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT The Willy Wonka-like gelato pops from Porano Pasta are much more than a sweet menu obligation.

Learn more about these and other inspired desserts created by local pastry chefs on p. 26.

HOT SAUCE BLING

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

by daniel puma

CORRECTION Correction: In the October 2016 issue, we incorrectly stated Scott McKinney staged in Manresa's kitchen on p. 14. He staged in the front of house under beverage director and sommelier Jeff Bareilles. We regret the error. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

St. Louis chefs turn up the heat with sambal

36

SNACK ATTACK by sauce staff

November 2016

COVER DETAILS

6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

editors' picks

EAT THIS

A slice of STRAWBERRY MOUSSELINE CAKE from LA BONNE BOUCHÉE is the sweet taste of sunshine we’re savoring as winter looms. Layers of classic yellow cake, fluffy vanilla mousse and sliced strawberries are iced in a silky smooth white buttercream, ringed with slivered toasted almonds and topped with a chocolate-dipped PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

strawberry. It’s a rich treat that’s light and fresh as a summer breeze.

12344 OLIVE BLVD., CREVE COEUR, 314.576.6606, LABONNEBOUCHEE.COM

November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

hit list

Vietnam Style on the east end of The Loop may confuse at first glance, but you’ll only be disappointed if you intend to shop for clothes. Start with the Vietnamese spring rolls, packed with veggies, rice noodles, pork and shrimp or grilled beef – and don’t be shy with the bright, savory peanut dipping sauce. The Bò Né Original Vietnamese Sizzling Steak is a great introduction to Vietnamese flavors, with a sweet and garlicky seasoning that complements rather than overpowers the filet mignon, along with a sunny side up egg. If you only get one thing, make it a noodle soup – the Pho Filet Mignon Bo Vien features thin, curling slices of tender beef, meatballs and rice noodles in a rich, mile-deep beef broth. The classic pho ga comes with generous amounts of shredded chicken and rice noodles in a lightertasting broth good enough to pour into a thermos and drink all day long.

VIETNAM STYLE STEAK & MORE

3 new restaurants to try this month

veggie breakfast tacos at egg egg

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

tomato soup at wicked greenz

Egg has expanded EGG from its weekend brunch popup beginnings, taking over Spare No Rib’s original space on Gravois Avenue for good. (Have no fear; Spare No Rib moved to a new home at 3701 S. Jefferson Ave.) Try the cornbread Benedict with a choice of smoked pork belly or spinach and avocado stacked on sweet, crumbly cornbread, topped with two gently poached eggs and a deluge of hollandaise or the generous asada wrap, packed with succulent steak, fries and just the right amount of cheese sauce. The chakchouka, a stewed vegetable dish with baked eggs, is a hearty yet healthy choice, or go south of the border with robust breakfast tacos filled with veggies, carne asada, chorizo or carnitas with house-made salsas.

Sip a brunch cocktail like the sweet and floral Sidi Bou Spritz made with hop vodka, jasmine and elderflower liqueurs and fresh orange juice.

2200 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.202.8224, breakfastcamefirst.com

November 2016

6100 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.405.8438, Facebook: Vietnam Style

Wicked Greenz WICKED GREENZ is serving up healthy, quick meals for the lunch and dinner crowds in Clayton. The veggiefocused menu offers 13 greens-based dishes that can be served “bowled” as a salad or “rolled” as a wrap. Try the Mexicali, a mix of salad greens, black beans, red onion, corn, cilantro and pico de gallo with charred tomato vinaigrette. The classic Caesar features Asiago cheese, basil and a sharp Parmesan-peppercorn Caesar dressing.

But the stars of the menu are the soups: The smoked chicken gumbo is spicy and complex with chunks of chicken, andouille and kielbasa in a dark, rich broth served atop a mound of white rice.

Get the garlicky, slightly sweet tomato soup, which is topped with cheese and crunchy croutons reminiscent of a deconstructed grilled cheese.

16 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.727.2772, wickedgreenz.com

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9

10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

shrimp and pork gyoza at kounter kulture

new and notable Kounter Kulture

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Y

ou usually don’t hear calls of “Yes, chef” or “Coming up, chef” when waiting for dinner to-go, but inside Kounter Kulture, the new carryout eatery in South City’s Lindenwood Park neighborhood, it sounds like you’ve stepped into a fine-dining kitchen. I made this mental note while standing around the storefront operation, snacking on an amusebouche of creamy grits cooked in coconut milk topped with a vinaigrette, a few peanuts and pleasantly hot diced Fresno chiles. Which led to my second observation: You usually don’t expect an amuse-bouche while cooling your heels for a meal to be eaten at home.

n e w a n d n o t a b l e KO U N T E R K U LT U R E p . 1 1 / l u n c h r u s h P I Z Z E O L I p . 1 4 / n i g h t l i f e R Y D E R ' S TAV E R N p . 1 7 November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11

12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

chef mike miller

smoked onions, a crunchy daikon radishcarrot-jalapeno slaw and a fermented chile-mustard sauce that could replace all memory and desire of your favorite barbecue sandwich. How the tofu bun could remind one of a Filet-O-Fish sandwich, but that would be an insulting comparison given just how delicious the slab of fresh local tofu was, deep-fried to a golden crisp with sesame cabbage and pickles adding just the right amount of crunchy texture, and Kewpie mayonnaise and Bull-dog sauce (both house-made versions of Japanese brands) providing a brilliant flavor combination.

When I reveal my favorite dishes of the year, count on the togarashi-spiced, Southern-meetsAsian catfish po’boy steamed bun to appear near the top of the list. Fried to an even darker hue and a crunchier crunch than the tofu, the fish lost none of its natural succulence. I watched a cook pull it from the fryer and sprinkle it with togarashi (a chile-sesame spice mixture) before dousing it with a creamy shishito pepper and cherry tomato remoulade. Through it all there was the taste of fresh catfish, plucking a banjo behind the fried coating and spice.

Gyudon braised missouri beef knuckle rice bowl

Kounter Kulture co-owners Christine Meyer and chef Mike Miller are known for their wildly popular Kitchen Kulture popup events and Saturday stands at Tower Grove Farmers Market (that cheesy, crazy delicious griddled breakfast sandwich!).

Like other nomadic food purveyors who have established a brick-and-mortar presence (Seoul Taco and Guerrilla Street Food come to mind), Meyer and Miller’s permanent base allows them the literal and creative space to offer a more varied menu on a more regular basis.

And what a menu it is. Drawing inspiration principally from Japan, Korea,

AT A GLANCE Kounter Kulture

November 2016

Vietnam and Thailand, Meyer and Miller procure mostly local ingredients for a small but mighty rotating selection of what is essentially Asian snack foods to take home: thick spring rolls stuffed with greens, crunchy cucumber and sweet mango accompanied by a zingy carrot-ginger dipping sauce; little fried gyoza fattened with crispy shrimp and pork, glistening with a sweet tsume sauce; steamed buns loaded with roasted pork, tofu or fried catfish.

I HAD HEARD ABOUT THOSE BUNS – how the pork bun was like a pulled pork sandwich, made far more interesting with

Where 3825 Watson Road, St. Louis, 314.781.4344, kounter kulturestl.com

Also count on seeing the okonomiyaki pancake somewhere on that list. More the size and heft a Chicago deep-dish pizza, the okonomiyaki (literally, “grilled to one’s liking”) looked like what would happen if a frittata,

Don’t Miss Dishes Togarashi catfish steamed bun, okonomiyaki pancake

Vibe Tiny, carryout-only spot with friendly staff and music pleasant to wait around to

pancake and pizza had a threesome.

The basic version consists of shredded cabbage loosely held together with a batter of eggs and flour to which you can add bacon, squid or, as I did, wild mushrooms. Topped with a lattice-work of more Kewpie mayonnaise and tangy Bull-dog sauce, it was slid into a pizza box, sliced into fourths and sent home with little cups of bonito flakes and furikake, a seasoning blend of sesame seeds, seaweed, sugar and salt, adding even more pungent savory punches.

Last month, I said gyudon is the kind of simple comfort food you want after a crazy day at work. Kounter Kulture’s version was no less comforting: a generous portion of Missouri beef braised in soydashi broth served in a bowl of seasoned rice and topped with shredded cabbage, slow-cooked egg and togarashi for layers of sweet, salty and smoky flavors. The Korean BBQ Chicken Rice Bowl was all about the last of heirloom tomato season, chunks of avocado and the cilantro-lime crema dressing. Even topped with fried chow mein noodles, it was more Mexican than Asian.

THE GREEN CURRY NOODLES WITH SUMMER VEGETABLES AND FRIED TOFU was like opening a box of classic color crayons: verdant green of basil and parsley, red and orange cherry tomatoes, the white of bean sprouts. When tossed with the thick, creamy sauce – house-made curry paste mixed with coconut milk and fish sauce – I thought of fettuccine.

When Pint Size Bakery moved north on Watson Road to bigger digs, Meyer and Miller took over the quaint space that has always looked like a drive-in, even back when it was a Cecil Whittaker’s Pizza joint. Inside, the kitchen is in full, immediate view of the walk-up counter.

There are a few bistro tables and chairs outside, but for the next few months you’ll want to hover inside, where it sounds like a real restaurant.

Entree Prices $6 to $17

When Tue. to Sat. – 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

reviews LUNCH RUSH

Lunch Rush PIZZEOLI

BY ANDREW BARRETT | PHOTOS BY DAVE MOORE

Walking into Pizzeoli, you’re met with the warm aroma of dough cooking in the adorable wood-fire oven and the warm greetings of chef-owner Scott Sandler. Lunch usually isn’t busy, which means service is prompt, and your pie arrives fast – baked at more than 800 degrees, it only takes a few minutes.

Making vegan and vegetarian Neapolitan pizzas of this caliber requires a lot of practice and attention to detail. Fresh ingredients aren’t just a hook here, and soft, but not-too-soft dough is made daily and hand-stretched to order.

owner scott sandler

mushrooms. The subtly flavorful red sauce doesn’t feel the need to announce itself, but is there to work with the team. The fun selection of mushrooms like cremini, shiitake and yellow trumpet gave a satisfying texture made all the better by the crust. I’m normally a heathen who leaves a pile of tough crusts behind, but I found myself gobbling up every last crumb of these tender pies.

VEGAN’S DELIGHT Layered with a cauliflower and carrot “cheese” sauce that has a pleasing orange hue, the pizza is topped with vegan Parmesan, mushrooms, grape tomatoes and vegan sausage, and seasoned with garlic, oregano, black pepper and olive oil. The taste was that of a refined Totino’s frozen pizza, and I mean that in the best possible way. It reminded me of comfy evenings on the couch.

THE FUNGHI WITH RED SAUCE The Funghi features Pizzeoli’s house-made mozzarella accompanied by thyme, oregano and, of course,

you can enjoy a slice next to Pizzeoli’s cozy oven. Each chewy bite scratches a hardto-reach pizza itch in St. Louis.

THE NEW YORKER The New Yorker lives up to its big city roots. Fontina, fontinella and Parmesan melt together atop the same tomato sauce, seasoned

14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

with garlic, oregano and olive oil. It’s the wood-fired brother to greasy, folded up street-vendor slices. Instead of dodging sad knock-off mascots in Times Square,

HOUSE SALAD Pizzas are almost the only thing on the menu, but don’t overlook the lone house salad. Bright, fresh greens punctuated by grape tomatoes and Parmesan cheese are tossed with a light balsamic dressing. Perfect in its simplicity and execution, the timeless salad was a refreshing dish that went well with hot pizza.

THE DOWNSIDE This can end up being a spendy lunch once you throw in a Mexican Coke and a salad. The quality is worth it, but this isn’t the place to grab a cheap slice on the go (despite their willingness to box up pizzas).

Pizzeoli Wood Fired Pizza Napoletana 1928 S. 12th St., St. Louis, 314.449.1111, pizzeoli.com

November 2016

November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15

16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

nightlife

reviews

Ryder’s Tavern

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

down with tall pints foaming with a dozen or so draft options dominated by local breweries such as Urban Chestnut, Schlafly and nearby Civil Life. Bottles and cans of easy drinkers like Lone Star, Magners Irish Cider, 4 Hands Ryder’s tavern City Wide and a score of 4123 Chippewa St., St. others are also available.

Louis, 314.899.9343,

ORDER IT: Ryder’s Tavern

Facebook: Ryder’s Tavern

The food at Ryder’s is a pleasure worth planning your visit around. The bar’s kitchen only pushes out a few exceptional items with the “keep it simple stupid” method deftly applied.

The rotating menu features the fantastic single- or double-stack burger and fries on Friday nights, $2 crunchy or soft tacos and $4 margaritas on Tuesdays, a variety of pizzas to accompany trivia night on Wednesdays and assorted brunch options on Sundays alongside a sea of bloody marys and mimosas.

F

riday nights at Ryder’s Tavern, everyone wants the burger.

Thick, charred double stacks of beef oozing with American cheese sit on a delectable little premix spread of lettuce, mayo, onion and relish that you don’t ask for, but fall in love with anyway. Unceremoniously wrapped in paper, it may not be the prettiest dish you’ve ever seen, but it’s one of the most simply indulgent, wow-didn’t-that-justhit-the-spot bar food experiences our city has to offer.

Way too clean and updated to qualify as a dive bar, Ryder’s is a neighborhood watering hole popular with bar industry folk, young professionals and blue collar-types who make the Tower Grove and South Grand area their regular stomping ground. The T-shirt-andNovember 2016

jeans crowd comes to chat at dark wood tables, relax on the patio and puff on Camel Lights. They drink, play darts and don’t miss flat-screen TVs, which are thankfully absent. A steady mix of old Motown tracks is pumped in at a nice volume – meaning you can happily lose yourself in it or conversation without shouting over the noise.

The smooth tunes and laid-back vibe are complemented by bartenders who mix up a variety of classic cocktails served stiff enough to put an Uber on standby. They don’t have much of a formal cocktail list, but they don’t need one. Efficient staff members are quick to recommend their own takes on classics like Old-Fashioneds and Manhattans.

The whiskey of choice for both is likely Bulleit. Cocktails like these are washed

The small space, formerly inhabited by the underground favorite Bleeding Deacon, has the look of a hard-ridden old-timer spiffed up and back in fighting shape. The slick, multicolored tongueand-groove wood floors have a bright, almost marble shine, and the walls are decorated with a scattering of kitschy vintage beer signs and random posters of sensational pulp novels. The old jukebox was busted on several of my visits. The back of the bar houses a pair of wellused dartboards and a bright green pool table, all of which can be enjoyed for free. A handful of wrought-iron tables and chairs are scattered on the popular back patio, sporting ashtrays that have seen some serious use.

Located on an industrial section of Chippewa on the southern fringe of Tower Grove, Ryder’s is hardly a seeand-be-seen hotspot – unless you want to be seen halfway through a gorgeously greasy burger and a tall pint of High Life. It’s an old-school haunt that looks like it, with nothing fancy or fussy. But with a stellar bar stocked with good hooch and a cozy little kitchen turning out standout fare, it’s the perfect corner retreat.

Order Ryder’s simply indulgent burger on Fridays.

Swimming with Bulleit rye whiskey, the OldFashioned is a dangerously drinkable little monster.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

dine

& drink beers with fall flavor profiles like apple and sage set a thanksgiving mood

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake Do your patriotic duty this Election Day and drink an Americano – whether to celebrate or drown your sorrows. Invented in Milan by Gaspare Campari in the 1860s, the drink earned its name TED AND JAMIE due to its popularity KILGORE among American expats.

USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart It’s a pleasant balance of and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House bitter, sweet and savory tempered by club soda.

Combine 1½ ounces each Campari and sweet vermouth in an ice-filled highball glass. Top with club soda, stir gently and garnish with half an orange wheel.

November 2016

Move over, Barolo.

Wines from neighbor Dogliani, Italy were recently granted the superior DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e GLENN BARDGETT Garanita) classification, Member of the Missouri Wine too. Dogliani wines use and Grape Board and wine only Dolcetto grapes, director at Annie Gunn’s which have always taken a back seat to Barolo’s Nebbiolo, but produce some juicy, complex dry reds. See what the upgrade is all about with the 2014 Pecchenino San Luigi Dogliani. $15. Parker’s Table, parkerstable.com

Turkey Day is right around the corner, so I’m planning my holiday feast. I pair my kitchen prep (and Thanksgiving meal) with sour and funky Lindemans Gueuze Cuvée René, KATIE HERRERA which is full of bright Co-founder of Femme citrus notes and apple Ferment and manager at The Side Project Cellar and blue cheese aromas, or Crooked Stave’s effervescent, herbaceous Colorado Wild Sage, an oakaged farmhouse saison that primes me for the season. $11 and $6.50. Craft Beer Cellar, clayton.craftbeercellar.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

CIDER

pressed to impress

BY LAUREN SCHUMACKER The season of apple picking and bonfires calls for sipping on cider. Not the sugary sweet candy versions, but one of the thoughtful artisanal varieties currently leading a hard cider renaissance. While local favorites like Schlafly Hard Apple Cider and Urban Chestnut Bushelhead have been around for years, American craft cider is going the way of natural wine and weird sour beer, with a growing emphasis on terroir, eliminating additives and natural fermentation.

According to The Side Project Cellar tasting room manager Katie Herrera, regional differences abound. French ciders are often barrel-aged and wine-like. Spanish ciders are full of Mediterranean flavors, often tasting of briny olives and the salty sea. American ciders make use of distinct apple varietals with a production approach increasingly similar to their European counterparts.

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

“Our approach is more of a natural fermentation, without back-sweetening, adding preservatives, things like that.

And we also go pretty much low to no carbonation – we’re doing natural as opposed to forced carbonation,” said Phil Wymore, owner-brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales. Last year, Perennial released its first cider with plans to craft another later this fall or winter.

With all the hard work that goes into sourcing heirloom apples, fermenting with natural yeasts, and barrel- and bottleaging for more complex flavor and texture, there’s never been a better time to start drinking cider. Here, Herrera’s picks for some bonfire-worthy bottles and cans:

Lapinette VIRTUE CIDER

Gravenstein Rosé SEATTLE CIDER CO.

Ciderkin ARGUS CIDERY

This French-style bottle from Michigan is a brut cider fermented with French yeast and aged in oak barrels. Reminiscent of Champagne, it’s crisp, tart and slightly mineral. $10. The Wine & Cheese Place, 9755 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.962.8150, wineandcheeseplace.com

This blush-colored beauty is made from early-season Gravenstein apples fermented and aged in petit verdot barrels from neighboring Crucible Wines. Slightly tannic, it’s like a mix of cider and rosé.

Released each May, availability is limited. $25. The Side Project Cellar, 7373 Marietta Ave., Maplewood, 314.224.5211, thesideprojectcellar.com

This is the Texas-based cidery’s plain old apple variety, which is dry with just a hint of sweetness and a big dose of effervescence. “Just like you’re biting into a fresh apple,” Herrera said.

6-pack: $12.25. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton.craftbeercellar.com

Ginger Perry ARGUS CIDERY This pear cider is dry with very minimal sweetness, characterized by the spicy zip of ginger. It’s effervescent and slightly tart. The pear and ginger balance each other out, so there’s no sharp bite or lingering sourness.

6-pack: $12.25. Craft Beer Cellar, 8113 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.222.2444, clayton.craftbeercellar.com

Michigan Brut VIRTUE CIDER The apples used in this brut cider are grown along Michigan’s cider coast on Lake Michigan. It’s crisp, tart and dry with subtle citrus, yeast and oak flavors.

4-pack: $10. The Wine & Cheese Place, 9755 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.962.8150, wineandcheeseplace.com

Cider 2015 PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES Perennial’s inaugural cider features a blend of Fuji, Jonathan, Red Delicious and Golden Delicious apples, all grown in the Midwest. It’s naturally fermented and aged in wine barrels for a year. $15. Perennial Artisan Ales, 8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis, 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

VEGETIZE IT

Vegan Pumpkin Pie

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

T

his Thanksgiving, I will not sit at the kids’ table for the 44th year in a row. I will stride past cousins gulping riesling from The Flintstones jam jars and take my rightful place among Pinterest-inspired decorations donning the main table. This year, I am earning my adult credentials by making a homemade pie. Seriously homemade, as in even the crust is from scratch. Pull up a non-folding chair next to me, because it turns out vegan pumpkin pie is a breeze to make.

22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

Traditional crust is made by cutting butter or shortening into flour using a pastry blender, which I apparently don’t own. Instead, I pulsed some flour, fat, cinnamon and soy milk in a food processor and made the world’s easiest dough in seconds.

I tested multiple combinations of vegan fats and found that using equal parts coconut oil and Earth Balance buttery sticks produced a tender and tasty crust with no coconut aftertaste. Make sure your coconut oil is solid, yet scoopable – not rock hard from the refrigerator.

pan. A $7 9-inch glass pie pan was the perfect size. If you must show off your fancy deep-dish pie pan, increase the filling ingredients by half and add 10 minutes to the baking time. Then you can brag to everyone at the big table about your grown-up command of math.

Crust recipes usually suggest chilling pie dough at least three hours to solidify the fat. The cold fat melts during baking, leaving air pockets that create light and flaky layers in the crust. But in this recipe, chilling the dough is strictly optional. My cooled crust was only marginally flakier than my room-temperature crust, and it may not be worth the extra time. Also, unlike traditional crusts, there’s no need to par-bake (baker slang for “partially bake”) or dock (poke holes with a fork) the crust before adding pie filling.

1½ cups flour, plus more for dusting ¼ cup Earth Balance Buttery Sticks, cubed ¼ cup solid organic coconut oil 3 Tbsp. maple syrup, divided 1¼ tsp. cinnamon, divided ¾ tsp. table salt, divided 5 Tbsp. cold unsweetened vanilla soy milk 1 15-oz. can pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling) 1 14-oz. can chilled coconut cream, divided ½ cup coconut palm sugar 3 Tbsp. cornstarch ½ tsp. ground ginger ½ tsp. ground nutmeg

My initial test filling of pumpkin puree, soy milk, coconut palm sugar and spices tasted delicious when baked in my heirloom extra-deep pie pan, but the filling’s texture was more gummy than airy. I switched out the soy milk for coconut cream, the rich, gently sweet solid at the top of a can of coconut milk. (Pro tip: You can buy full cans of the stuff at most major grocery stores.) There also wasn’t enough filling; my puny pie showed more than an inch of exposed (burned) crust. I considered making more, but then I would be stuck with unused pumpkin puree.

The solution was a smaller pie

November 2016

VEGAN PUMPKIN PIE 1 9-INCH PIE

∕8 tsp. ground cloves 2 tsp. vanilla extract, divided

1

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Sprinkle the work surface and rolling pin with flour.

• In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the S blade, add the flour, buttery sticks, coconut oil, 1 tablespoon maple syrup, ¼ teaspoon cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon salt. Pulse 10 to 15 times, until the mixture becomes crumbly. Add the soy milk 1 tablespoon at a time, pulsing once after each addition.

• Transfer the dough to the floured work surface and shape it into a ball. Roll the dough into a ¼-inch thick disc slightly larger than the pie plate, adding more flour as needed to prevent sticking. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch pie pan, pressing against the edges and pinching the top of the dough between your fingers and thumb to flute the

crust. Remove and discard any overhanging crust. Set aside.

• In a blender, combine the pumpkin, ½ cup coconut cream, the palm sugar, cornstarch, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, 1 teaspoon vanilla and the remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon and ½ teaspoon salt; blend on low speed 2 to 3 seconds, until fully combined.

• Pour the pumpkin mixture into the prepared crust and bake 45 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.

• Meanwhile, make the whipped topping by refrigerating a metal mixing bowl and the beater attachment of an electric mixer at least 1 hour. In the chilled bowl, add the remaining coconut cream, 2 tablespoons maple syrup and 1 teaspoon vanilla and mix on low speed a few seconds, just until the mixture is fluffy. Dollop the whipped topping onto the pie before serving.

23

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

MAKE THIS LEFTOVER TURKEY CUBAN

Leftover Thanksgiving turkey can seem endless – until you press it into this modified Cuban sandwich. Slice a telera or other soft sandwich roll in half lengthwise. On one half, spread 1 tablespoon each yellow mustard and cranberry sauce. Top with 1 slice baby Swiss cheese, 5 to 7 bread-and-butter pickles and 2 ounces each leftover turkey and sliced ham. Cover with the other half of the roll. Place the sandwich in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Press down with another heavy pan 2 minutes, then flip the sandwich, press down with the pan and cook 2 more minutes, until the cheese is melted. – Dee Ryan

MAKE THIS

ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Plan a stop at Diana’s Bakery while running Thanksgiving errands to grab a few soft, slightly sweet telera rolls. 55 cents each. 2843 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.771.6959, Facebook: Dianas Bakery

November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

Dessert S AV E R O O M F O R

by stacy schultz // photos by greg rannells

26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

sardella executive pastry chef sarah osborn; opposite: creme fraiche semifreddo from sardella November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

C H O C O L AT E L AVA C A K E . W E ’ V E A L L H A D I T; W E ’ V E A L L L O V E D I T. A N D L E T ’ S B E H O N E S T, WE’VE ALL GONE UP A JEANS SIZE BECAUSE O F I T. B U T G O N E H O M E R AV I N G A B O U T I T ?

N O T S I N C E ’ 9 7.

28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

essert is the final act, the grand finale, the cherry on top (sorry). But what if it could be more than just a little something sweet? What if dessert was the beguiling destination dinner’s twists and turns were leading you to all along? What if dessert was a love letter to the seasons – if ice cream came in flavors like pawpaw and candied bacon was thrown around like confetti?

What if dessert was just as surprising as dinner?

Prioritizing dessert means hiring a pastry chef – a tough cost for small restaurants up against the sobering odds of the industry. Most can’t even consider the expense, which is why so many pastry experts end up in hotels or bakeries.

But some ambitious eateries find a way, enlisting trained pastry chefs to apply the same fierce passion and unapologetic enthusiasm of the savory side of the menu over to the sweet one.

Their goal? To make dessert un-pass-up-able. Their results?

Desserts that leave even the biggest sweets naysayer asking, “Where has this been all my life?”

When chef Matthew Daughaday began assembling the team for his Maplewood restaurant, Reeds American Table, an executive pastry chef was at the top of his list. A skilled pastry chef in the kitchen meant passion, innovation and the ability to make as much as possible in-

November 2016

house. Daughaday reached out to Summer Wright, an ubertalented pastry chef he’d met during their tenures in Gerard Craft’s Niche Food Group.

Unlike some kitchens, where the pastry chef is relegated to a small corner away from the hustle of the line, Wright is woven right into the madness.

She is named a co-founder on the website, and the sweets menu is right there on the main menu (“I want people to plan,” she grinned.). In fact, Reeds’ brunch service grew partly out of Daughaday’s desire to let Wright show off her affinity for flaky, buttery pastries. “We always try to further someone’s skill set,” Daughaday said. “If you’re limited to this four-slot space at the end of the menu, that’s not room for growth.”

niche food group executive pastry chef mathew rice; opposite: from left, strawberry shortcake, matchachocolate cookie and salted caramel gelato pops from porano pasta

Wright’s composed desserts are equally thoughtful. Like her fig tart, a sucree tart shell filled with custard steeped in Japanese black tea until the cream’s sweetness is tempered just enough. Chewy dices of candied oranges, toasted almonds and a whipped cream quenelle are drizzled with a sweet and complex burnt local honey caramel. Perched atop are fresh figs, proud in their green and ruby glory. It’s clear why this is one of Wright’s all-time favorite desserts. It respects the season in the truest – and tastiest – way.

The same could be said of her panna cotta, Wright’s ballad to Missouri’s grape harvest. The light-as-fall-air vanilla bean panna cotta is surrounded by

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29

Tune in to 90.7 KWMU for this month’s Sound Bites when pastry chefs Mathew Rice and Summer Wright discuss the sweeter side of the menu on St. Louis Public Radio.

panna cotta from reeds american table

30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

reeds american table executive pastry chef summer wright; panna cotta from reeds american table

slivered, halved and quartercut local red Mars and green grapes and splashed with saba, the balsamic vinegar-like syrup made from grape must, leftover after wine is made. “It’s a great transitional dessert,” Wright noted. “It’s very poetic.”

Back at Niche Food Group, two other familiar faces are taking a slightly more whimsical approach to pastry. Niche expats Mathew Rice and Sarah Osborn returned from stints in Chicago – she at Boka, he at Nightwood, The Publican and Girl & the Goat – to breathe sweet new energy into dessert at Taste, Pastaria, Porano and Sardella (which may be open by the time you read this). At Taste, Rice is revisiting some of the signature desserts he crafted for the cocktail bar

November 2016

when it was just a six-seat hidden gem in Benton Park, like his Watchamacallit-inspired semifreddo. Back then, it was a malted milk ball-chocolate semifreddo with malted brittle, chocolate ganache and a chocolate-dipped peanut butter crispy rice treat. The 2016 reboot trades in ganache for magic shell and crispy treats for nougat.

Rice is also having a blast geeking out on “all things ice,” keeping the gelato case at Pastaria rife with new flavors (oh hello, sprinkle cake and gooey butter cake) and mastering the Willy Wonka-like gelato pops at Porano. To understand what that means, first, forget everything you know about pudding pops.

Take for example Rice’s Tang Pop (yes, Tang) – flavored with

the bright orange drink, dipped in a white chocolate magic shell (crunchy, sweet and a wee bit tropical) and then rolled in a pile of Pop Rocks that crackle and pop the same way they did when you were 9. So bubbly, so good.

Or pick up what Rice called his “grown-up version of cookies and cream”: the Matcha-Chocolate Cookie, made with green matcha gelato half dipped in dark chocolate magic shell and rolled in crushed chocolate cookies.

By his side, Osborn is busy crafting a dessert menu that will change with the seasons for Sardella. Osborn’s creme fraiche semifreddo gives a peek into how the dessert menu will play out.

Cut through this leaning tower of apple-y goodness to get a bite of everything – the cold and creamy

semifreddo, the crazy-moist applesauce cake, the apple terrine and the sticky salted caramel sauce. Oh, and don’t forget the candied ginger sprinkles.

No offense to the chocolate lava cakes and basic creme brulees of the world (We’ll still happily order you with coffee.), but a sweet finish can be more than mere menu obligation. A dessert list that surprises and satisfies, innovates and elevates is a symbol of a restaurant willing to go to great lengths to provide you with every aspect of an incredible meal. But despite their insane talent and clear passion, these pastry chefs are up against another challenge: really awesome dinner menus. So next time you’re out, do yourself a favor: Save room for dessert.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31

32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

HOT

SAUC E

SAMBAL AT GUERRILLA STREET FOOD

B LI NG St. Louis chefs turn up the heat with sambal

BY DANIEL PUMA // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33

Hoy Fong Sambal Oelek Seafood City Supermarket, 8020 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.993.2800, Facebook: Seafood City

GRILLED WHOLE SQUID with

HOUSE-MADE SAMBAL Hiro Asian Kitchen

34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

love. “I think the best part of sambal is you get that chile taste along with the spice,” Boettler said. “You can use it abundantly, but it’s not going to overpower anything, and it’s going to add nice flavor.”

Sambal may seem like third in line for popular Asian chile pastes, but it shouldn’t take a back seat to Sriracha or gochujang.

Not as recognizable as its Thai and Korean counterparts, Indonesian sambal is the Twin Peaks of chile pastes. And just like David Lynch’s ’90s cult favorite, sambal is complex, deep and doesn’t always make sense, but somehow still works.

Bill Kunz, owner of Highway 61 Roadhouse, uses sambal in his CajAsian Pot Stickers for the same reason. The Cajun-Asian fusion house favorite blends it with andouille and trinity vegetables (onion, bell pepper and celery).

One of the more unique applications was at Planter’s House, where executive chef Sam Boettler incorporated the ingredient in a romesco sauce served with trout on his summer menu. “I use sambal specifically because it’s spicy but not overly spicy,” Boettler said. “It has a brightness to it – a fresher quality to it.”

Boettler still uses it in the pickled egg snack.

Eggs are submerged in a mixture of white balsamic vinegar and sambal to produce a tart, spicy version Cool Hand Luke would

November 2016

Tran bucks the norm in some of his uses.

“Some people like Sriracha in pho, but I like sambal,” Tran said. “Our pho is very aromatic, but I like [adding] sambal because it gives it a natural flavor – a little more garlicky.

Sometimes I’ll mix it with Sriracha.”

Not everyone takes sambal out of its natural habitat, however.

“Sambal is my culture. It’s my roots. Sambal is my cuisine,” said Hiro Asian Kitchen chefowner Bernie Lee. “Everything about sambal is a blend of spices of Southeast Asia.”

A blend of fresh chiles and Southeast Asian ingredients like shrimp paste, fish sauce and aromatics, sambal is less about heat and more about imparting fresh, bold flavors. While one would expect to find it in restaurants representing its region of origin, many nontraditional establishments across St. Louis are utilizing the condiment in some of their favorite dishes.

Southwest Diner co-owner Jonathan Jones has used sambal in his signature dish for years.

Jonathan’s Famous Fiery Scramble combines it with eggs, sour cream and shredded cheese.

“It’s a dish I started making as a server in my late teens and early 20s,” Jones said. “[It was a] cheap, flavorful dinner, and it just kind of stayed with me. It’s proven to be probably our most popular dish.”

use sambal in our peanut sauce and fish sauce – that’s the base for a lot of things.”

Hiro’s house-made sambal is highlighted in its grilled whole squid appetizer. “Fresh squid tastes sweet, and sambal has so many components – it’s basically seafood’s best friend,” Lee said. “I like to use it with the squid because when you grill it on the fire, it brings out more of the lemongrass, garlic, shrimp paste, shallots and ginger.”

Like barbecue sauce, every household has its own version. “It’s a common condiment for Southeast Asia – like ketchup here,” Lee said.

“Everybody makes sambal differently; everyone has their own secret recipe.”

jonathan's famous fiery scramble made with sambal at southwest diner

“I like the way sambal has heat but also a hint of sweetness from the rice wine vinegar in the mixture – it’s not overpowering,” Kunz said. “No one is a bigger fan of Tabasco than me, but Tabasco is nothing but hot. It just adds heat to the dish, but something like sambal adds heat and flavor.”

Perhaps no St. Louis restaurant utilizes sambal as much as Mai Lee. “We use sambal in about everything,” said chef-owner Qui Tran. “We

Guerrilla Street Food has made its own for about a year now. “It balances out a lot of our sweeter and savory flavors [and] provides a high contrast to all the soy sauce and vinegars,” said co-owner and chef Brian Hardesty.

Guerrilla’s blend fuses Fresno peppers with sugar, fish sauce and garlic among other components, but the most important ingredient is time. “It’s time that really gives it its flavor,” Hardesty said. “We give it a minimum of a week before we start using it.”

Between sambal’s versatility, adaptability and endless possibility, this bold chile paste is overtaking taste buds as the next go-to tonguesizzling condiment.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 35

SNACK ATTACK Whether you’re watching TV, on a road trip or want a morsel to tide you over till dinner, choose these packaged, portable treats when your next snack attack hits hard.

36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

BY SAUCE STAFF // PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

1

8

Billy Goat Chip Co. Kicker Chips

Picholine olives $11 per pound. Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation, 8829 Ladue Road, Clayton, 314.727.6464, extravirginoo.com

3 ounces: $3. Available at most major grocery stores

2 1

Biena Chickpea Snacks, habanero 5 ounces: $4. Target, all St. Louis locations, target.com

7 8

3 Old Vienna Red Hot Riplets 5 ounces: $2. Available at most major grocery stores

2

4

3

4 Companion Breaded Bliss $6. Dierbergs, all locations, dierbergs.com

5

9

Marcoot Jersey Creamery garlic herb cheese curds

6

$6. Lucky’s Market, 15830 Fountain Plaza Drive, Ellisville, 636.220.1223; 9530 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.8193, luckysmarket.com

6 Kitchen Cooked Kettle Kurls 11 ounces: $2.50.

Schnucks, all locations, schnucks.com November 2016

5

7

9

Gift Horse Bread and Butter Pickles

Salume Beddu Veneto Salami

$7. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

1.6-ounce presliced pack: $3.50.

Salume Beddu, 3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.353.3100, salumebeddu.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

stuff to do:

NOVEMBER

BY OLIVIA DANSKY AND ISABELLA ESPINOZA

Small Batch, Big Taste Nov. 2 – 5:30 to 7:30 p.m., Beyond Broadway, 112 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.374.5881, ledistl.org Sip on creative cocktails made with some of St. Louis’ most renowned distillers including Pickney Bend, Big O, Still 630 and Defiance Whiskey. Les Dames d’Escoffier members will offer snacks like Frisco Sliders and Spanish port meatballs, with frozen treats from Ices Plain & Fancy for dessert. Proceeds benefit the Les Dames d’Escoffier St. Louis scholarship program.

Tickets available at the door, or online at brownpapertickets.com.

Authentic Swiss Raclette Dinner Nov. 5 and 12 – 6 to 8 p.m., Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, Facebook: Vom Fass St. Louis Join Vom Fass owner Anita Von Ballmoos for a night of Swiss cuisine with one of the country’s most loved dishes, raclette. A combination of funky melted cheese, grilled meats and vegetables, raclette is a festive, interactive eating experience. Enjoy a night of unlimited food, drinks and an authentic taste of Switzerland. Call for reservations; seating is limited.

Feijoada Completa & Pagode do Moacyr Nov. 6 – 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Lucha, 522 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, sambabom.com Immerse yourself in Brazilian culture with

38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

an afternoon of food, lively Pagode music from Samba Bom and specialty cocktails.

Sao Paulo native Moacyr Marchini prepares feijoada, a traditional Brazilian stew of black beans, pork and beef, served buffet-style with rice, collard greens and farofa (a traditional toasted cassava flour topping). Reservations available via Facebook.

St. Louis Jewish Book Festival Nov. 6 to 20 – Jewish Community Center, 2 Millstone Campus Drive, Creve Coeur, 314.442.3299, stljewishbookfestival.org This annual festival welcomes four renowned cookbook authors to St. Louis. Join “The Breakfast Queen” Ina Pinkney as she discusses her new memoir-cookbook, Ina’s Kitchen, on Nov. 9, or spend a foodfilled evening with comedian and chef Robert Rosenthal, author of Short Order Dad, on Nov. 16. Meet two pros on Nov. 11 when chef Michael Solomonov discusses his acclaimed Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking followed by Lloyd Handwerker, grandson of Coney Island icon Nathan Handwerker of Nathan’s Famous. Tickets available online.

Great Pumpkin Festival Nov. 12 — 4 to 9 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com Schlafly’s fall beer takes center stage at the Great Pumpkin Festival. Sip pours of Pumpkin Stout, Pumpkin Ale, November 2016

Hard Cider, Coffee Stout and others while six whole hogs roast in the Bottleworks parking lot. Eat your fill, then grab another pint and gather round the bonfire to warm up on a cool fall harvest moon night.

Holiday Fare Wine Trail Nov. 19 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Nov. 20 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Hermann Wine Trail, Hermann, 800.932.8687, hermannwinetrail.com Kick off the holiday season with Hermann’s annual Holiday Fare Wine Trail. This 20-mile stretch along the Missouri River features fall-inspired dishes and wine pairings from seven area wineries. Enjoy Cape Cod meatballs paired with the River View Red at OakGlenn Winery and pumpkin ginger soup with Black Forest ham served with White Lady at Hermannhof Vineyards and much more. Tickets available online.

sponsored events Cooking with Sauce Nov. 4 – 6:30 to 9 p.m., Dierbergs, 1080 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0440, dierbergs.com/school Join us at Dierbergs in Des Peres for a taste of Sauce Magazine. Managing editor Heather Hughes, art director Meera Nagarajan and contributing writer Glenn Bardgett demonstrate recipes from the pages of Sauce along with beverage pairings. Reservations online; seating is limited.

November 2016

Whiskey in the Winter Nov. 12 – 6 to 9:30 p.m., Hyatt Regency Downtown 4th floor ballroom, 315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, whiskeyinthewinter.com Keep the cold at bay when you sip on more than 350 whiskeys and whiskeybased cocktails at Whiskey in the Winter.

This annual event features bourbon, rye, Scotch, Irish, Tennessee, Canadian, Missouri, Japanese and international whiskeys, as well as five food stations throughout the venue. Guests will also enjoy educational opportunities and guest speakers.

Just Five: From Sauce Magazine Nov. 12 – 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., Dierbergs, 1080 Lindemann Road, Des Peres, 314.238.0440, dierbergs.com/school Join Sauce contributing writer Dee Ryan, who regularly pens Make This, for her cooking class based on her online column, Just Five. Learn to make mouthwatering dishes like Caribbean shrimp, chicken thighs with butternut squash and sage, and an apple tart, all with just five key ingredients in each recipe. Reservations online; seating is limited.

Tower Grove Farmers Market Nov. 5 and 12 – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Only two outdoor markets remain in the Tower Grove Farmers Market season. Brace yourself against a chilly morning with a cup from Kuva Coffee or Traveling Tea, then stock up on squashes and other festive fall gourds, cool weather greens and more.

Food From the Vine Through Dec. 31, participating restaurants and retailers, operationfoodsearch.org Drink to do good during Food From the Vine, benefiting Operation Food Search.

Purchase a glass or bottle of “OFS Wine” at a participating restaurant or retailer and a portion of the sale benefits Operation Food Search. A full list of participating restaurants and retailers is available online. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

WHAT I DO

Mark 'Garlic' Brown

Open Book “There are some farmers who jealously hide their secrets. Me – I’m open and transparent. I’ll share with anyone. I don’t believe in competition. ... We spread education like some people spread compost.”

Natural Resources “Bioponics uses interesting things – organic things – as a growing medium: leaf compost, sawdust … We set the tunnel up every fall and use alternative growing mediums in each of the wicking beds inside there

so that we can show: This is how you grow in these various mediums. Showing people you’re not limited. … You should look to what’s around you. Use what’s there. A lot of times it’s better – and it’s free.”

The Starbucks Loop “From that Starbucks at Boundary, we’re getting what’s going to be about 10 tons a year of coffee grounds – and they would have just thrown that out, right into a landfill. We’re using that to create nitrogen so we can grow more food and then bring that food, sometimes, right back to Boundary. You get this loop effect. Because we’re going back and forth in our deliveries, there’s no extra fuel being expended. The coffee grounds come along for the ride.”

Weird (Natural) Science “We’re going to do a grafting class, and we’re going to turn a crabapple tree into a multi-fruit-bearing tree. It’s going to have probably eight different kinds of apples and four different kinds of pears all on one tree. … It doesn’t seem natural, but these are natural things that we can do to basically broaden our food scope.”

fucking watch. I don’t want that on my watch. I want to increase diversity. I want to go out and find these lost varieties.”

Garlic Love “We’ve got 55, 56 varieties that are what we call feral recoveries. … I can spot feral garlic from a car at 55 miles per hour. When you love something so dear like that, you create this intimate relationship with it.”

Gateway Garlic Farms 314.570.4945, Facebook: Gateway Garlic Farms

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

Gateway Garlic Farms does a lot more than operate its many farms scattered across the city and surrounding counties. It’s a locus for like-minded farmers and organic activists who swap equipment, excavate feral garlic from 19th-century homesteads and debate genetically modified organisms on Facebook. And though he said it created itself, this community could not run without Mark “Garlic” Brown’s frenetic energy and administrative gumption. In the Tao of Mark Garlic, you use what you need and give the rest away. Here, a glimpse into the mind of the man named Garlic. – Heather Hughes

Protecting Genetic Diversity “When we lose something like the dodo, we fucking lose something forever. And that to me is – not on my

40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2016

November 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

GUIDE TO THE

Holidays Guide to the Holidays 2016

FREE, GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1

2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3

4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

5. twelve recipes

3 knife & flag apron

THE STARTER KITCHEN Everyone has a list of kitchen must-haves, but gifts for new cooks require a little more finesse. They should be practical, yet inspirational; something to not only set them up for success, but also get them excited about cooking for the first time or in a new place.

Give these long-lasting tools, amped-up basics and fun ways for new cooks to learn in the kitchen. – Marianne Moore

Kitchen Conversions Art Nothing’s worse than dousing a phone in sugar trying to look up how much is in an ounce. This chart eliminates guesswork when it’s time to convert teaspoons to tablespoons or cups to pints.

With many colors available, it also makes great kitchen decor. 8½-by11-inch: $20; 13-by-19-inch: $25.

Etsy: SweetFineDay

Victorinox 9-inch bread knife A proper bread knife is essential.

This serrated knife slices through the softest brioche or the crunchiest country loaf with ease, and the raised handle keeps knuckles from scraping on the cutting board.

Bread knives are also great for slicing ripe tomatoes and leveling cakes. $28. amazon.com

Knife & Flag Apron Want to cook like a rock star?

Dress for the part. Knife & Flag Core Aprons are built with a cross-harness strap design to ensure they won’t get in the way in the busiest of kitchens. Stylish, comfortable and made to last with heavy denim or canvas, these aprons are for the serious cook – or those who want to look like one. $70 to $80. knifeflag.com

Eat, Drink and Learn Even if they think the oven is a place to store shoes, developing cooking skills can still be fun. Arm your new cooks with a gift card to Dierbergs School of Cooking, and they can choose a class that fits their interests from mastering basic knife skills to baking cupcakes. $35 to $50. Dierbergs School of Cooking, various locations, dierbergs.com/school

Twelve Recipes A great cookbook is the total package: delicious recipes that work, beautiful photography and writing that inspires. Twelve Recipes is just that. It’s a versatile book of the basics, and variations are encouraged. It will get new cooks into the kitchen with the confidence to gather friends around the table. $27. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

DIERBERGS PHOTO COURTESY OF DIERBERGS MARKETS

4. eat, drink and learn

1. kitchen conversions art

Guide to the Holidays 2016

2. victorinox 9-inch bread knife

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

4. blood and sand membership 1. skull barspoon

THE BOOZEHOUND These can’t-miss presents will wow even the most cosmopolitan drinker. From classes that inform and entertain to home bar musthaves sure to impress, here are gifts for the boozehounds on your list. – Kristin Schultz

Skull Barspoon More than just a pretty face, this tiki-inspired stainless spoon is well-balanced in the hand and comfortable to work with – making it one of Público bar manager Nick Digiovanni’s favorite tools. The conversation starter is also available in gold and copper-plated finishes. $25. cocktailkingdom.com

Bitterman’s Field Guide to Bitters & Amari Bitter is in. Along with instructions for DIY bitters and cocktail recipes, these pages are packed with tasting notes and essential information to make the most of ubiquitous and obscure bitter bottles. $25. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

Cocktails Are Go! Class Check a dozen or so off your list with a group gift. Matt and Beth Sorrell teach classes with themes like Cocktails 101, PreProhibition or Farm to Table.

You buy the booze, and the Sorrells bring the glassware, mixers and know-how to up your friends’ bartending game. $25 per person. 314.406.2777, cocktails-are-go.com

Blood & Sand Membership No secret handshake required, just a monthly membership fee to give the wine, beer and cocktail quaffer access to one of the best bars in town. With its extensive and carefully curated wine list and cocktails ranging from whimsical to brooding, there is no shortage of ways to unwind. $15 per month.

Blood & Sand, 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com

World of Wine Gift Basket Take your favorite wine snob around the world in six bottles.

Specialists hand-pick a motley crew of red and white wines from near and far. Order this no-brainer basket online or at any location, then have it delivered locally for a festive holiday surprise. $100. The Wine & Cheese Place, all locations, wineandcheeseplace.com

BLOOD & SAND PHOTO BY LAURA MILLER

2. bitterman’s field guide to bitters & amari

5. world of wine gift basket 3. cocktails are go!

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9

4. mila macarons

1. flowers to the people

THE OBLIGATORY GIFT It’s not easy to shop for people who have everything or about whom you know nothing, but that doesn’t take them off your gift list. From sweets to splurges to simply pretty things, these are elegant and thoughtful choices that will please just about anyone. – Amrita Song

Masala Chai Tea Concentrate Village Botanicals (formerly The ReTrailer Tea Co.) recently started bottling this wonderfully spiced Extra Special Masala Chai Tea Concentrate, made with cardamom, ginger and a five-spice masala blend of cinnamon, star anise, allspice, clove and peppercorn. $9. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995; villagebotanicals.com

Nordic Ware Egg Waffle Pan This pan produces fluffy, crispy, eggy mounds that melt in your mouth, like an inverted waffle.

Eat them by the bubble or roll them up like a waffle cone and fill with ice cream. Either way, the topping possibilities are endless.

These waffles will liven up Sunday morning breakfast for anyone on your gift list. $45. amazon.com

5. tasting menu at elaia

Mila, Sweets Macarons It’s difficult to resist delicate, colorful, full-flavored cookies that fit perfectly into a chic little box. With flavors like chocolate sea salt or raspberry elderflower, these macarons will give someone a taste of Paris at home. Half dozen: $9.

Whisk: A Sustainable Bakeshop, 2201 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.932.5166, milasweets.com

Tasting menu at Elaia A handful of places around town provide tasting menus, but few have the ambiance and style of Elaia. The quiet Botanical Heights restaurant has wonderful service, and with inventive dishes like tartare of lamb, each of the 10 courses is meant to be savored.

It’s a splurge, but you’re giving an experience one will never forget. $120; $220 with wine pairings. Elaia, 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.1088, elaiastl.com

3. nordic ware egg waffle pan

ELAIA PHOTO BY R. J. HARTBECK

Flowers to the People A kitchen bouquet is doubly appreciated during this season of entertaining. Request colors and types of flowers if you’d like, or simply tell the florist the occasion and watch as she swiftly spins together something magical as you watch. Each is a unique work of art, making an elegant and lovely-smelling gift. Bonus: The shop delivers. $25. Flowers to the People, 2317 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.762.0422, flowerstothepeople.biz

2. masala chai tea concentrate

10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11

12 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

5. halcyon knives

THE FOOD SNOB According to David Kamp and Marion Rosenfeld in their snarky Food Snob’s Dictionary, a food snob is someone “who has taken the amateur epicure’s admirable zeal for eating and cooking well to hollandaise-curdling extremes.” Here are a few holiday gift ideas to distinguish your food snob, experienced or aspiring, from the amateurs.

– Michael Renner

Acorns & Cattails Most chefs know how to forage without poisoning themselves.

For the rest of us, St. Louis native Rob Connoley’s smartly written, beautifully photographed cookbook provides inspiration and instruction for gathering and preparing food. We hope Connoley serves some of these recipes in the restaurant he plans to open in St. Louis next year. $35. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com

4. anova sous vide machine

VAIN Vanilla Sampler Regular vanilla extract is so, uh, vanilla. VAIN Foods of Kansas City, Missouri switches out the standard neutral grain alcohol in favor of more interesting spirits to make its vanilla. Try Mexican vanilla in Kentucky bourbon, Indonesian vanilla in ginger spirits, Ugandan in orange spirits and Madagascar vanilla in both cane rum and vodka in this five-pack sampler. $40. Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

Wine Wands Sometimes even the most conscientious don’t have time to chill their wine to the proper temperature. In such dire straights, the hoi polloi use ice cubes, a practice eschewed by any self-respecting food snob.

Keep this set of two stainlesssteel wine chillers in the freezer to cool down a glass of wine in a hurry, preempting such an embarrassing situation. $40. Williams-Sonoma, Plaza Frontenac, 1701 S. Lindbergh Blvd., Frontenac, 314.567.9211, williams-sonoma.com

Anova Precision Cooker Sous Vide WiFi While rash enthusiasts bought aquarium-sized sous vide immersion circulators, food snobs knew something better had to be in the works. Like cell phones, sous vide technology has produced a manageably sized device. It’s lightweight, attaches to any pot and connects to a smartphone so you can cook remotely and receive temperature notifications. $199.

Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, 314.725.6380, crateandbarrel.com

Halcyon Knives Halcyon Forge is a one-man show in which Joseph Schrum makes beautiful, high-carbon steel knives in his backyard work shed in Sedalia. Schrum uses reclaimed materials like old saw blades and wood scavenged from riverbanks.

Buy his designs or order custom knives made with, say, a resin laminate handle incorporating a memento. But prepare to wait six months for the custom gift to arrive. He’s that good. $140 to $425. Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.4005; halcyonforge.com

3. wine wands

2. vain vanilla sampler

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15

Holiday� BIG, RICH

Whether you’re a closet-purging minimalist or someone tragically associated with knickknacks of your favorite animal, brown paper packages tied up with string don’t always inspire holiday singalongs. Ditch the expensive gifts this year and give your family an extravagant meal instead. Dad can only wear so many ties, but no one will forget the time you led with a tray full of bubbly, served foie gras in collard greens and brought out the cheese plate after dinner. We’ve collected all the recipes, bottles and tips you need to be rich – or at least act like it – this holiday.

BY HEATHER HUGHES, CATHERINE KLENE, TIFFANY LEONG, MEERA NAGARAJAN, MAGGIE PEARSON AND KRISTIN SCHULTZ \\ PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

�

Lobster Boil

When buying lobsters, Herbie’s chef Chris Vomund said to make sure they are lively – they should look like they want to fight you. To transport, wrap them in wet newspaper and place them in a cooler with ice packs. A 1½-pound lobster should yield about 6 ounces of meat.

P. 23

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

It’s the little things people remember. Start your party with a warm welcome. Set out a tray of sparkling glasses for guests to pick up as they arrive. It’s a luxurious touch that saves you the trouble of mixing drinks for an hour.

– M.N.

Bottles of Good Cheer

Put aside your light, workaday brews and reach for something more festive to serve at this extravagant holiday meal. Saint Louis Hop Shop co-owner Justin Harris shared his five picks from double IPAs to rich chocolate stouts to put you in a merry mood. – C.K.

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Schlafly Tasmanian IPA Redolent with Galaxy and Australian Topaz hops, this 7.2-percent IPA is heady enough to feel celebratory but won’t weigh you down for a night of decadent food and drink. 6-pack: $10.

Destihl Wild Sour Plum Sour Stout Chocolate and dark fruit combine for a brew that balances sweet and tart. At 5.6 percent, it goes well with lighter hors d’oeuvres or salads. 4-pack: $10.

Against the Grain Citra Ass Down A healthy dose of Citra hops gives this 8-percent American IPA a taste of the tropics that’s balanced by maltiness.

4-pack: $12.

Ballast Point Victory at Sea This rich Imperial porter is infused with sweet notes of coffee and vanilla perfect for post-dinner sipping. Be on the lookout for its elusive peppermint variant to add to the holiday hoopla. 6-pack: $15.50.

Evil Twin Liquid Double Fudge The name doesn’t lie: This Imperial stout packs a creamy, fudgy punch that becomes even more chocolaty as it warms. At 12 percent, this is a beer to share and sip slowly. 22-ounce bottle: $9.

All beers are available at Saint Louis Hop Shop, 2606 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.261.4011, saintlouishopshop.com Guide to the Holidays 2016

HOLIDAY CARRYOUT Even when hosting a big rich holiday dinner, time is a luxury few can afford. Since there’s no shame in buying what the pros can do better, here are a few ideas to keep the hectic out of your holiday. – M.P.

Gnocchi with Truffles P. 21

Fresh, bright and coppery oysters are a huge treat that wow guests with little effort. Market price.

Bob’s Seafood, 8660 Olive Blvd., 314.993.4844, University City, bobsseafoodstl.com Local Harvest’s food case will be stocked with holiday classics from a new catering endeavor, Seed Sprout Spoon, this year. Opt for the caramelized cauliflower with walnuts and garlic – high roasting coaxes out a nice crunch. 3 pounds: $10.

Local Harvest Grocery, 3137 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com Cannoli, those fried pastry shells stuffed with sweetened ricotta and rolled in chocolate chips, candied fruit or pistachios, are a hallmark of The Hill. Prices vary. Missouri Baking Co., 2027 Edwards St., St. Louis, 314.773.6566 Sugaree’s rich and salty-sweet Momo Tarts are a local version of the famous Crack Pie from New York’s Momofuku Milk Bar, with a gooey butter cakelike consistency. The individual tarts mean no one has to share dessert. $2.75 each. Sugaree Baking Co., 1242 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.5496, sugareebaking.com Smooth, buttery sweet potato casserole with a nutty, crunchy crust can take hours of prep, but the folks at Winslow’s Home have you covered.

Order ahead to make sure you get enough. 2 pounds: $14. Winslow’s Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

Rum & Jerry Punch Keep the party going with a festive bowl of this luscious buttered rum punch.

P. 21

20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Recipes

Rum & Jerry Punch

Gnocchi with Truffles

12 eggs, separated 1 cup powdered sugar ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened 1 tsp. allspice 1 tsp. cinnamon 1 tsp. ground cloves 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 quart whole milk 1 750-ml. bottle añejo rum, such as El Dorado 5-year or Goslings Black Seal 1 750-ml. bottle blackstrap rum, such as Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum or Cruzan 1 oz. Angostura bitters Freshly ground nutmeg, for garnish

Pure rock salt 4 to 5 russet potatoes (about 1½ lbs.)

1¼ cups flour, plus more for dusting 2 eggs, beaten 1 tsp. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. butter, divided 1 oz. shaved black truffles*

Courtesy of Eclipse’s Seth Wahlman 12 SERVINGS

• In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, powdered sugar and butter until combined, 3 to 5 minutes, then set aside.

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on high speed until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes. Gently fold the egg whites into the sugarbutter mixture, then stir in the allspice, cinnamon, cloves and vanilla.

• In a large saucepan over mediumlow heat, warm the milk until heated through but not boiling. Remove from the heat. Whisking constantly, pour the milk, añejo rum, blackstrap rum and bitters into the egg mixture.

• Transfer to a large punch bowl and garnish with the nutmeg. Serve immediately.

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Butternut squash will make the mac and cheese sweeter, while acorn and carnival squash are more starchy.

•

Courtesy of Farmhaus’ Kevin Willmann 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Fill a rimmed baking sheet with a layer of rock salt.

• Prick the potatoes all over with a knife and place them on the salt. Roast about 1 hour, until easily pierced with a knife.

Let sit until cool enough to handle.

• Slice the potatoes in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh, discarding the skins. Run the potato through a food mill with the smallest plate attached. You should have 1½ pounds milled potato.

• Combine the potatoes and flour on a floured work surface, forming a well in the center. Pour the eggs and salt in the well, then use well-floured fingers and a bench scraper to lightly fold the mixture together about 10 times, until just combined.

• Divide the dough into 4 equal portions and sprinkle each with flour. Working with 1 portion at a time, roll the dough into a ¾-inch thick rope. Slice into 1-inch pieces and place on a flour-dusted cookie sheet. Repeat with the remaining portions. If desired, roll

•

•

•

the gnocchi gently over the tines of a fork to form small ridges. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a large saute pan over low heat, melt 1 tablespoon butter and keep warm.

Gently place half the gnocchi into the boiling water and cook until they float, about 30 seconds, plus 10 seconds more. Remove and add to the saute pan.

Add 1 tablespoon cooking water to the saute pan and raise the heat to medium. Gently shake the pan to emulsify the butter and water and glaze the gnocchi with the sauce.

Pour into a serving dish. Repeat with the second half of the gnocchi.

Season with a pinch of salt, top with shaved truffle and serve immediately.

* Plantin whole black winter truffles available online. 7 to 8 ounces: $70.

Rare Tea Cellar, rareteacellar.com

Fall Squash Mac and Cheese

Courtesy of Local Chef Kitchen’s Rob Uyemura 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 1 fall squash, such as butternut, acorn or carnival ½ lb. macaroni noodles ½ lb. whole-wheat macaroni noodles 3 cups heavy cream

1½ cups grated colby-cheddar blend Sea salt and white pepper, to taste ¼ cup toasted salted pepitas 1 oz. baby arugula • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• Cut the squash in half lengthwise and use a spoon to remove the seeds and inner membrane. Place the squash halves cut-side down in a baking dish and fill with water to ½ inch up on the squash.

• Roast 30 to 45 minutes, until the squash is very soft and begins to brown. Let rest until cool enough to handle.

• Remove ½ cup of the cooked squash and mash. Reserve the remainder for another use.

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the regular and whole-wheat macaroni noodles and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain the pasta and set aside.

• In a large saucepan, combine the heavy cream and squash puree, whisking until smooth. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the cooked macaroni and return to a simmer to heat through, about 5 minutes.

• Remove from the heat and add the cheese, stirring until melted. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

If needed, add some of the reserved cooking liquid to reach the desired consistency.

• Pour the macaroni and cheese into a large preheated serving dish.

Garnish with the pepitas and arugula and serve. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

Creamed Greens with Foie Gras If you can’t get foie gras, duck pate makes a fine substitute. Fabrique Délices Duck Mousse with Port Wine: $13. Whole Foods, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, 314.968.7744, wholefoods.com

22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

P. 23

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Creamed Greens with Foie Gras Courtesy of Cleveland-Heath’s Rick Kazmer 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 lbs. hearty greens, such as kale, chard or mustard greens, stemmed and roughly chopped 1 cup white wine, such as Kabinett riesling or Gewurtztraminer 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste ¾ cup creme fraiche 1 to 2 tsp. white pepper, plus more to taste 8 egg yolks 6 to 8 oz. grade A foie gras, cubed* ½ cup breadcrumbs ½ cup grated Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

• In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, melt the butter.

Add the garlic and sweat until fragrant but not brown, about 2 minutes.

• Add as many greens as possible to the pot and stir to wilt. Add the remaining greens as space allows.

As they wilt, add the wine and 1 tablespoon salt and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium and simmer 12 to 15 minutes, until the wine is almost completely reduced.

• Stir in the creme fraiche, white pepper and salt to taste. Let simmer about 15 minutes, until the sauce starts to thicken. Add the egg yolks 1 at a time, stirring to incorporate, then stir in the foie gras. Pour the greens into a 9-by-13-inch casserole dish.

• In a medium bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and cheese, then spread evenly across the top of the greens. Bake until bubbly and golden-brown, about 15 minutes. *Foie gras is available online.

Foie gras cubes (1 pound): $32. dartagnan.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Lobster Boil

Courtesy of Herbie’s Chris Vomund 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 8 to 10 1½-lb. live lobsters 3 shallots, halved 2 lemons, halved 2 limes, halved 2 oranges, halved ¼ cup garlic cloves (5 to 6 large cloves) ¼ cup McCormick pickling spice 3 to 4 gallons water Compound butter, melted or softened (recipe follows) • Place the lobsters in the freezer 15 minutes.

• Meanwhile, add the shallots, lemons, limes, oranges, garlic and pickling spice to a large stockpot and fill with water. Bring to a boil over high heat.

• Plunge 2 lobsters into the boiling water, making sure they are completely submerged. Boil 10 to 11 minutes, until completely cooked.

Remove and transfer to a serving platter.

• Bring the water back to a boil and repeat with the remaining lobsters, adding more water as needed to keep the lobsters submerged. Serve immediately with the compound butter.

Compound Butter

Courtesy of Herbie’s Chris Vomund 1 POUND 1 lb. unsalted butter, softened 3 to 5 garlic cloves, minced 1 shallot, finely diced ½ bunch fresh parsley, chopped ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. white pepper • In the bowl of a stand mixer, add all the ingredients and whip on mediumhigh speed until combined.

• Transfer the butter to the middle of a large sheet of parchment paper and mold it into a long cylinder.

Twist the ends of the paper tightly to seal. Freeze 1 to 2 hours before serving.

Bone-in Rib Roast

Courtesy of Annie Gunn’s Lou Rook III 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 7- to 8-lb. bone-in standing rib roast Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 20 garlic cloves Extra-virgin olive oil • Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

• Liberally season the roast with salt and pepper. Make 20 small incisions all over the roast and insert the garlic cloves, then rub the meat with olive oil.

• Place the meat on a roasting rack fatside down. Roast 35 minutes.

• Reduce the heat to 400 degrees. Flip the meat and roast 45 to 60 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 125 degrees.

• Cover with foil and let rest at least 25 minutes before carving. Serve with pan juices.

Salted Caramel Tart Courtesy of Sucrose Bakery’s Agi Groff 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

1 batch tart dough (recipe follows) 2 cups plus 2 Tbsp. sugar ½ tsp. lemon juice ½ cup water ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup heavy cream, divided 4 oz. bittersweet chocolate Flaky sea salt to finish • Grease a 10-inch tart pan with nonstick cooking spray.

• On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Gently transfer to the tart pan, pressing it against the surface and trimming off any excess dough. Prick the surface several times with a fork and refrigerate 1 hour.

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bake the tart crust 20 minutes, until golden-brown. Let cool.

• In a medium saucepan over high heat, combine the sugar, lemon juice and water and bring to a boil. Reduce

the heat to medium-high and cook swirling the pan occasionally (do not stir), until the caramel reaches a dark amber color, 10 to 15 minutes. Use a clean pastry brush dipped in water to wipe away any crystals that form on the side of the pan.

• Remove from the heat and carefully whisk in the butter, then ½ cup cream. The mixture will rise and bubble. Continue to stir until smooth.

Let cool 30 minutes to thicken.

• Pour the caramel into the tart shell and refrigerate until set, about 1 hour.

• In a small saucepan, bring the remaining cream to a boil over high heat, then immediately remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let sit 2 minutes, then whisk until smooth.

• Pour the ganache over the caramel, tilting the pan so the chocolate spreads evenly. Refrigerate until set, about 1 hour.

• Sprinkle with the sea salt just before serving.

Tart Dough

Courtesy of Sucrose Bakery’s Agi Groff Adapted from Claudia Fleming’s The Last Course 10-INCH TART 1½ cups flour ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. almond flour ½ cup (1 stick) salted butter, softened ¹∕³ cup powdered sugar 1 egg, beaten • In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and almond flour and set aside.

• In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and slowly beat in the egg on medium speed. Scrape down the sides again, and with the mixer on low speed, add the flour mixture. Mix until the flour is incorporated.

• Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Flatten the dough into a disc and wrap it in plastic.

Refrigerate a few hours or overnight before using. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

Ready the corkscrew, polish the stemware and bring out the wine. Whether you’re looking to drop some coin or want a bottle that only tastes expensive, we’ve got you covered. – K.S.

Impress for less

2014 NAVERAN BRUT CAVA CAVAS like this dry, fresh sparkler may be Spain’s best kept bubbly secret. $15. TheVino Gallery, 4701 McPherson Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5665, thevinogallery.com 2014 TALBOTT LOGAN CHARDONNAY Bold, rich and tropical, this California chardonnay makes a statement without draining your pocketbook. $25.

Balaban’s, 1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.449.6700, balabanswine.com 2013 DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS PETALOS Balancing acidity and fruity

notes, this Spanish red is a full-bodied and refined addition to the table. $25.

Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

Spare no expense

JACQUESSON CUVÉE EXTRA BRUT 738 This dry Champagne is the perfect start to a decadent dinner. $65. The Wine Merchant, 7817 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com 2013 BINDI QUARTZ CHARDONNAY Minerality comes through in this oakaged vintage from Down Under. $125. Reeds American Table, 7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.9821, reedsamericantable.com 2012 SILVERADO SOLO CABERNET SAUVIGNON From Napa Valley heritage vines comes an intense, stone fruit sip with a long, rich, earthy finish. $119.

Balaban’s, 1772 Clarkson Road, Chesterfield, 636.449.6700, balabanswine.com

CHEESE FOR DESSERT Nothing says class like an after-dinner cheese course. “Cheese can be a decadent treat that satisfies your need for something creamy and sweet to finish out a meal,” said Larder & Cupboard general manager Cindy Higgerson.

“It’s a nice way to end an elegant dinner.”

A good cheese board should have a couple sweet accompaniments like honey and dried fruit, some savory choices like pickles and nuts, and crackers or crusty bread along with three to five cheeses. Ask your cheesemonger for help choosing a variety of milks, ages and styles. We asked Higgerson to build us the ultimate cheese course. –T.L. and H.H.

24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Green Dirt Farms Woolly Rind aged sheep’s milk cheese This creamy, decadent Camembert-style is made locally in Weston, Missouri. $18.

is nutty and sweet. “It’s good crumbled on ice cream,” Higgerson said.

“I’ve even had customers put it in cannoli.” $11.

Kenny’s Farmhouse Awe Brie A bloomy-rind, soft cheese, this brie goes great with preserves and fruit. $14.

Milton Creamery Flory’s Truckle aged cheddar With more of a bite, this clothbound aged cheddar offers nice contrast to the creamier cheeses. $27 per pound.

Baetje Pumpkin Walnut goat cheese This fresh goat cheese

Kenny’s Farmhouse Blue Gouda This is milder than most

blue cheeses, offering some funkiness without overpowering. $23.50 per pound.

Quince & Apple figs and black tea preserves Figs and cheese are a classic combination.

This fruity preserve pairs especially well with the Truckle. $9.

La Quercia Speck Americana Similar to prosciutto, speck offers a bit of saltiness to contrast and

balance the sweeter cheeses and preserves. $11.50.

Quince & Apple pear with honey and ginger preserves The sweet punch of this honey-ginger pear preserve is well suited for dessert. $9.

All products available at Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com Guide to the Holidays 2016

©ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Season’s Drinkings

Salted Caramel Tart P. 23

C O F F E E

S E R V I C E

A cup of coffee is heaven after a rich meal, but nobody wants to make the host get up and do more work. This holiday, they won’t have to ask. Set your smallest mugs or cutest teacups, creamer, sugar bowl and largest French press or Chemex on a tray before guests arrive. Just add hot water to triumphantly present coffee service with dessert.

Prepping ahead makes the solicitudes of a good host seem effortless and a little psychic. – H.H. Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2016

Guide to the Holidays 2016

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27