May 2023

FARM-TO-STADIUM Bold Spoon Creamery’s Rachel Burns brings farmsourced taste to CityPark soccer stadium

May 2023

ST. LOU I S’ I N D E P E N D E NT C U LI NARY AUTH O R ITY // SAUC E MAGAZ I N E .C OM // MAY 2023

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May 2023

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M AY 2023 • VOLUME 23, ISSUE 5 PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR STAFF WRITER ART DIRECTOR SENIOR DESIGNER EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR PROOFREADER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2023– by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of

Allyson Mace Meera Nagarajan Liz Wolfson Lauren Healey Iain Shaw Meera Nagarajan Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey Stacy Schweizer Izaiah Johnson, Jonathan Gayman, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Michelle Volansky Lauren Healey, Meera Nagarajan, Alexander Olson, Stacy Schweizer, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky, Liz Wolfson Allyson Mace Kelli Jones Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Alexander Olson

the publisher is strictly prohibited.

While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors

with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

GET SAUCE M AGA ZINE E- M AILED DIRECTLY TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONTH Sauce Magazine is now fully digital! Rather than searching for a copy on stands around town, you can now receive the issue straight to your inbox every month. Scan the QR code or visit saucemagazine.com/digital-issue/join to subscribe to the magazine online, and keep an eye on our website and social media for more foodie content. Cheers!

May 2023

contents M AY 2 02 3

editors' picks 7 EAT THIS Al pastor tacos at Mi Tierra Bonita

by michelle volansky 9 IN THE KNOW Sauce Food Truck Friday Newcomers

by lauren healey

features 20 FARM-TO-STADIUM

Tune in to The Sauce, the new podcast from Sauce Magazine. Each Wednesday co-hosts Meera Nagarajan and Liz Wolfson discuss where we've been dining, new restaurants we love and where we're off to next. Listen to The Sauce wherever you listen to podcasts.

Bold Spoon Creamery’s Rachel Burns' journey from home kitchen to CityPark stadium

by stacy schweizer 33 THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN Seven beers that defined St. Louis’ craft beer scene

by iain shaw

10 DRINK THIS Cola cocktails

by michelle volansky 12 HIT LIST 4 new places to try this month

by meera nagarajan, iain shaw and liz wolfson

last bite 36 WHAT I DO Michael Kennedy of Vin Fraiche Wine Group

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sauce joins St. Louis on the Air.

COVER DETAILS FARM-TO-STADIUM Bold Spoon Creamery’s Rachel Burns brings farm-sourced taste to CityPark soccer stadium.

Learn more on p. 22.

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

by liz wolfson

IMAGE COURTESY OF SUZANNE BECKER BRONK PHOTOGRAPHY

38 LANDMARK

May 2023

The Pat Connolly Tavern

by iain shaw 40 STUFF TO DO THIS MAY by alexander olson

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MIKE SHADWICK H O N E Y B E E ’ S B I S C U I T S + G O O D E AT S Position: Chef/Owner Married? Yes, to my wife and biscuit making queen, Meredith.We started Honey Bee's together.

Kids? No, but we do have two dogs, George and Oliver.

Where are you originally from?

Belleville, IL Where did you go to school?

Althoff Catholic High School in Belleville and Quincy University in Quincy, IL How did you get to where you are? Cooking has always been a quiet hobby of mine, a way of escaping and an outlet to adversity I experienced throughout my childhood. As an adult I spent years chasing the wrong opportunities and trying to be something I wasn’t. After many failures and finally attempting something I simply loved – cooking food – I found my passion and success.

Download a catalog:

New things going on in your restaurant: We’ve recently added the Bee-Rrito to the menu. It’s a large breakfast burrito made Honey Bee’s style with our chopped eggs, sausage, bacon, chorizo and spicy sausage gravy used as a reduction to bring it all together. We finish it off with green onion, Imo’s Provel cheese ropes and sear the tortilla in our combi oven before serving. We also recently added drinks to our menu – Natalie’s orange juice and Excel soda featuring Ski, Lucky Club Cola and Frostie root beer.

We’re working diligently to add lunch and dinner service once we feel we’ve fully matured our breakfast operation while still meeting our food truck and catering demands.

Favorite menu item: The OG Hive – sausage, egg and cheese with sausage gravy, red hot riplets and green onions. The food on our menu is made the way I love to eat it. The sausage patties are a quarter

pound, the gravy is viscous and creamy seasoned with black pepper, rosemary and thyme Three cool facts: • One of my other hobbies is music.

I’ve played drums since I was in 4th grade. I played in school band, marching band in grade school and a hobby garage band in high school.

I also love to sing.

• I have 4 older sisters and am the youngest of 5.

• Honey Bee’s is named for a few reasons: 1. We glaze our biscuits with honey 2. Meredith and I met on bumble and bees have always been a symbol in our relationship.

3. We believe in bee’ing yourself What is your favorite piece of equipment or kitchen item?

Convotherm combi oven – purchased by Ford Hotel Supply Honey Bee’s Biscuits + Good Eats, 200 US-67, Kirkwood, honeybeesbg.com

The Upton Collection

Like the restaurant biz? We’re hiring!

Sales (inside & outside), Customer Service, Warehouse, & more. Send your resume to

HR@FORDSTL.COM

Visit our showroom or www.fordstl.com 2204 N. Broadway • St. Louis, MO 63102 314.231.8400 • 800.472.3673

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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S

Eat This

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

When we picture the ideal taco, we imagine Mi Tierra Bonita’s al pastor tacos. Chewy, flavorful hunks of grilled pork dotted with bits of pineapple strike the perfect balance between sweet and spicy. They’re topped with fresh diced onion and cilantro and cradled in two layers of soft corn tortilla. Dabs of bright house salsa and creamy, spicy salsa verde are a must. On top of all that, you can snag three tacos for less than $10 – an absolute steal.

3203 Collinsville Road, Fairmont City, Illinois, 618.271.7226, ordermitierramexicanstore.com

May 2023

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May 2023

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IN THE KNOW S AU C E F O O D T R U C K F R I DAY N E W C O M E R S Sauce Food Truck Friday returns to Tower Grove Park on May 12. To kick off the season, we’re highlighting the 10 new trucks that will join old favorites like Mission Taco Joint, Farmtruk and Angie Burger.

DYNAMIC DISHES This truck has an abbreviated menu for the event series, including smoked pulled pork and potato salad, hand-breaded chicken tenders, along with loaded nachos or loaded fries. Facebook: Dynamic Dishes

ESTELA’S FRESCAS Expect Mexican food like birria tacos, quesabirria, taquitos, flan and tres leches cake for dessert, plus fruit waters in a variety of flavors. Instagram: Estelas Frescas

TRUCK O SOUP This truck will offer chicken and sausage gumbo, along with a special soup of the day, May 2023

plus some sandwiches, wraps and a Caesar salad. Facebook: Truck O Soup

pepper aioli, along with a mac and cheese baked potato. Facebook: Mr.Papas 2 Go

tallow fries, along with rotating beef items like brisket tacos. Facebook: The MOObile

WOK-O TACO

SUGAREE SHAVED ICE

SPUD SHACK

This truck serves up Mexican street tacos with Asian flair, such as a bulgogi steak taco, thai chile chicken taco, go-chu pork taco, plus esquites (sweet corn in a cup topped with Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, among other things), and a kids’ quesadilla. Facebook: Wok-O Taco

This Grateful Dead-inspired truck serves a variety of flavors of shaved ice in a colorful tie-dye truck. Facebook: Sugaree Shaved Ice

At Spud Shack, the humble baked potato is a blank canvas primed for toppings of all kinds, such as steak and cheddar or Buffalo chicken.

Facebook: Spud Shack Food Truck

TAKOZZ

MR. PAPAS 2 GO

This truck features a variety of street tacos, quesabirria, tortas, street corn and more.

Facebook: Takozz

Specializing in all things potato, this truck has loaded potato chips, a chicken fajita baked potato, a vegan potato topped with broccoli, roasted tomato, mushroom and roasted red

Pierce Creek Cattle Co. has launched its own food truck featuring smash burgers and

THE MOOBILE

SOUL BURGERS You can expect burgers, of course, as well as Impossible burgers, fries, onion rings and non-dairy milkshakes. Keep an eye out for the special Gemini Burger with grilled onions, mushrooms and bacon. Facebook: Soul Burgers saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9

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DRINK THIS

Cola Cocktails Cola-inspired cocktails are popping up on menus across town, from creatively layered takes on classic cola flavors to revivals of tried-and-true soda-and-spirit combos. The playfully named Italian Soda on tap at Press is a delightful combination of bourbon, amaro, sweet vermouth, ginger and bitters served over crunchy pellet ice that goes down as easily as a fountain Coke. The Wright’s Cola at Wright’s Tavern mixes cherryinfused Four Roses bourbon with cola, vanilla bean and lime. Topped with a juicy cherry, this one is refreshing and sweet without entering dessert drink territory. The divisive Kalimotxo, a Spanish cocktail made with equal parts red wine and cola, is getting the respect it deserves on the concise cocktail menu at effortlessly cool Cherokee Street wine bar ‘Ssippi. Bar Moro is putting their sophisticated spin on the Spanish classic with red wine, Sambuca, Coca-Cola, lime and mint.

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Or go off menu and do what we do when we want to scratch the itch: Saddle up to a dive bar and order what we’ve affectionately dubbed the Dirty Diane, Shirley’s edgy step-sister – bourbon, Coke, grenadine and fresh lime.

Press 2509 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.1094, press-stl.com Wright’s Tavern 7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.390.1466, wrightswydown.com ‘Ssippi 2926 Cherokee St., St. Louis, ssippi.xyz Bar Moro 7610 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, bengelina.com/bar-moro

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Old Webster Groves 111 W Lockwood Ave 314-395-6094 LeMacaron1StLouis@gmail.com M-Sat 9am-10pm Sun 9am-9pm lemacaronstlouis

May 2023

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hit list

4 new places to try this month

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May 2023

SADO

The long-awaited new restaurant from Nick Bognar and his team has opened on the Hill, and they’re off to a running start. The space is dimly lit with two dining rooms and a sushi bar.

The servers are knowledgeable and a good resource for navigating the menu, from food to drinks like the Higashi Tini (their take on a dirty martini) or the sake menu. While we were happy to see some beloved dishes from Indo on the menu, like their famed isaan hamachi and the vegetarian Japanese pumpkin dish with green curry sauce, there are also completely new dishes that are hard to find anywhere else in St. Louis, like the chawanmushi – a custard flavored with crab and seafood dashi. Topped with uni and salmon roe for added richness and salinity, it’s a super luscious, do-not-miss dish.

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Their dry-aged fish dishes are also delightful; the aging process tenderizes the fish and adds complexity to the flavor. Try the madai yaki, dry-aged Japanese seabream that’s grilled until the skin is shatteringly crisp and served with chimichurri sauce and lime. The tempura menu is also serving fresh ideas, like the broccolini that’s fried crisp and served with aged Parmesan and umami aioli, and the acorn squash served with a miso caramel.

High-quality seafood is the cornerstone of the menu here, which makes ordering from the “fish market” section a smart way to learn what you like.

The king crab was rich, the Hokkaido uni was a little nutty and sweet, and the kinmedai (goldeneye snapper) was mild with a little sweetness. While the menu reads ambitious, it doesn’t always take itself so seriously. Case in point: the fried twinkie dessert – unpretentious, delicious and a fine way to end a thoughtful meal.

5201 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.390.2883, sado-stl.com

May 2023

BONITO BAR

The new iteration of University City’s Frida’s – which has recently reopened as a plant-forward, pescatarian restaurant – includes Bonito Bar, a little jewel box of a space decorated with a gilded ceiling, tropical, floral printlined light shades, and dozens of tiny clear glass hummingbirds – and one colorful glass parrot – suspended from the ceiling. The cocktail list reflects this equatorial setting through fruity, wellbalanced drinks made with top-shelf spirits, like The Bonito, which combines two different rums with blood orange aperitif, pineapple, lime and agave, and Oaxaca’s Last Word, made with El Buho mezcal, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime juice.

There’s also a robust selection of lowABV “session” cocktails and mocktails like the Passion Project made with Lyre’s non-alcoholic rum, lime and passion fruit syrup. Bar patrons can also order from the Frida’s food menu; the gooey, zippy baked goat cheese was an excellent accompaniment to our fruity tipples.

622 North and South Road, University City, 314.727.6500, eatatfridas.com

opposite page: the sushi bar at sado; this page: clockwise, from top left: the miso-ginger salad at sado, grilled kinmedai at sado and chawanmushi at sado

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RESTA RANTS U

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May 2023

opposite page: meatballs and marinara sauce at black mountain wine house; this page: clockwise, from top left: the bar at black mountain wine house, the interior at black mountain wine house, the t&j salad at black mountain wine house

BLACK MOUNTAIN WINE HOUSE

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

ROSÉ BY PENO The intimate dining room at Pepe Kehm’s latest Mediterranean-inspired restaurant has a nightclub-forgrownups feel. Coastal regions of France and Italy like Provence and Calabria inform the menu’s affection for seafood. There are crispy smelt, escargot sauteed in bone marrow butter and baked oysters, but we enjoyed the octopus, slow braised with fennel sausage and bathed in a saffron broth, and admired the bouillabaisse being shared at a neighboring table. Traditional pizza is an option, but the pissaladières (“puffs” on the menu) offer a fun, puff-pastry based alternative with toppings including ratatouille or spinach and ricotta. The temperaturecontrolled wine system allows for wine pours starting at 2.5 ounces, inviting you to try several wines rather than committing to one.

Black Mountain Wine House may be the second location of a business that originated in Brooklyn, New York, but the charmingly rustic, barnchic vibes are all Missouri. Located next door to Gaslight Theater, it’s a perfect spot for a drink and snack before or after a show, though the thoughtful wine list and tight-buttasty food menu are reason enough to visit. The wine list has something for all tastes, from bottles from familiar Old World regions to several trendy-but-delicious extended skin contact (orange) wines, like the refreshingly dry, effervescent 2021 Casal de Ventozela vinho verde. It paired well with the pork meatballs, served in marinara sauce with toasted bread for dipping, and the goat cheese tart, a colorful, layered construction of herbed goat cheese, chopped roasted beets atop a sliced potato “crust;” fresh, crunchy shredded romaine lettuce provided balance to the rich cheese and earthy beets.

1463 S. 18th St., St. Louis, 314.405.8500, rosestl.com

354 N. Boyle Ave., St. Louis, blkmtnstlwinehouse.com

May 2023

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st. louis' finest food trucks TAKOZZ /takozzstl Takozz Truck serves mouthwatering Mexican street food that perfectly captures the essence of Mexico's rich culinary culture, prepared fresh and fast, using traditional recipes and authentic ingredients. From flavorful street tacos and quesadillas to zesty elotes and savory quesabirrias, these delicious grab-and-go treats cater to busy, on-the-move lifestyles. Takozz’s menu features a variety of delicious meats like marinated adobada steak, grilled pollo chicken,

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al pastor pork with pineapple and onions, birria braised beef, and seasoned chorizo sausage. We make all our marinades and salsas fresh in-house, with a range of options like creamy avocado, green, and red salsa.

“When you eat our food, it’s like you’re eating at our dinner table. These are the flavors of our families,” says Ramon Garcia, co-owner and operator of Takozz. Garcia owns Takozz with his partner, Eduardo Herrera. The two are ecstatic to have expanded Takozz into an additional brick and mortar location inside of St. Clair Square. “This is a dream we have shared together for many years.”

CLEMENTINE'S ICE CREAM /clementinescreamery /clementinesstl Clementine’s Ice Cream serves unique Naughty (alcohol-infused), Nice (grass-grazed dairy) and Vegan flavor options. As a microcreamery, all of Clementine’s ice cream must: be churned in small batches; be made by hand; have an all-natural dairy base; be made with less than 30% overrun; be made with more than 16% butterfat. It’s the process that makes our ice cream so decadent!

Our most popular flavor is Gooey Butter Cake, with

PHOTO COURTESY OF EYE LEVEL MEDIA - JAYSON CAREY

Food trucks have proven they're not a fad — they're here to stay.

Here are 7 of the city's best.

April 2020 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

pril 2020

fresh vegetables. Vegan and gluten free options are available. Try the house specialty drink, brown sugar boba.

chunks of scratch-made gooey butter cake layered in a rich and tangy cream cheese ice cream and inspired by the classic St. Louis breakfast pastry.

Clementine’s has an extraordinary events team to cater any and all special occasions. Choose from a vintage ice cream truck, Spokes & Spoons Bicycle or Ice Cream Station as options to make magical memories at your event.

Bringing the best of Pappy's Smokehouse to you! From our famous ribs, BBQ Nachos and sandwiches/sides to bulk orders and EZ carryout combos, we’ve got the perfect menu for you.

Pappy’s Rollin’ Smoke is available for private events, workplace visits, neighborhood deliveries and block parties. Contact us at foodtruck@ pappyssmokehouse.com or 314.326.1369 to see available menus and book your event. You can also find us around town at food truck events including Food Truck Fridays. Check our website for upcoming events.

FARMTRUK /farmtrukstl Farmtruk is bringing the farm-to-table concept to the St. Louis streets. They partner with local farmers to create classic dishes with a fresh twist.

Must-try dishes include the brisket mac, Farmtruk burger, fried green tomatoes, and their Reuben sandwich. Find them at Enterprise Center in section 327, 9 Mile Garden, and the Tower Grove Farmers' Market.

GRACE CHICKEN + FISH FOOD TRUCK /gracechicknfish Grace Meat + Three launched their very first food truck last summer. The truck menu features some of the most popular menu items from Grace Meat + Three including their famous fried chicken, cornmeal crusted catfish, buttermilk fried shrimp, Grace fries and slaw. The truck expands Grace Chicken + Fish's reach and gives grace to new communities around the St. Louis area. Now Available for private parties, corporate events & weddings! Book by calling 314.520.8182 or emailing catering@stlgrace.com.

PAPPY'S ROLLIN' SMOKE /pappysrollinsmoke /pappysrollinbbq

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SEOUL TACO /seoultaco

MR. NOODLE /mrnoodlestl Mr. Noodle is St. Louis' new lo mein truck from the team that brought you Tuk Tuk Thai and Pearl Cafe.

Mr. Noodle is all about fast, fun, friendly service, big flavors, and generous portions of meat piled high over house-seasoned lo mein noodles and

A St. Louis original, Seoul Taco offers a menu of Korean-Mexican dishes like burritos, quesadillas, and tacos, as well as specials by our Michelin Chef, Brian Fisher! Look for us at Food Truck Friday this year with new specials and a brand new Food Truck! Visit seoultaco.com to see the upcoming food truck schedule, or follow the brand on social media.

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FARM-TO-

Bold Spoon Creamery’s Rachel Burns brings f

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-STADIUM

farm-sourced taste to CityPark soccer stadium

BY STACY SCHWEIZER // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

opposite page: rachel burns of bold spoon creamery; this page: creme brulee ice cream from bold spoon creamery

May 2023

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St. Louis’ sports stadiums have always served ice cream (looking at you, Dippin’ Dots). But now, when fans with access to CityPark stadium’s Michelob Ultra Club section are looking for something sweet, they’ll find chocolate ice cream speckled with chunky flakes of Maldon sea salt.

Tart goat cheese and sweet fig jam will create a flavor that’s almost cheesecake-like. It will come from a stand named Bold Spoon Creamery, and everything from the peaches in the roasted peach to the pumpkin in the pumpkin-chai will have been grown just a few feet from the kitchen it was made in. You’ve heard of farm-to-table. But what about farm-to-scoop?

When Rachel Burns first received a phone call saying Gerard Craft, the local restaurateur leading the food experience at the soccer team’s new stadium, had personally requested her Bold Spoon Creamery ice cream be a part of the team’s inaugural season, it was a lot for her to take in. She’d never even met Craft. Bold Spoon was hardly a household name and didn’t have a scoop shop like many other local ice cream brands. She’d faced challenges like having to trash her original business plan when the pandemic’s onset rendered it impossible. But Burns had wanted to start her own business since she was in her 20s. She just didn’t have a good enough idea – until 2017, when a mint plant took over her garden.

After more mojitos than she cares to remember, Burns began turning her surplus of fresh mint into ice cream using the Cuisinart ice cream maker stored in her basement. She had a pool in the backyard of her and her husband, Corey Wilkinson’s, University City home, and her mint ice cream became something of a tradition.

“People would come over to swim and then have ice cream,” she recalled. “It just, like, became a thing.”

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Soon, she was constantly thinking – no, obsessing – about her new passion. She experimented with different cooking methods, conducted melt tests and timed everything. “I told Corey, ‘I’m thinking about this so much that we either need to make it a business, or I just need to drop this,’” Burns said.

Wilkinson agreed to give it a try. “We were clueless going in,” he chuckled. “I didn’t know what to have reservations about!”

Burns drafted a business plan focused on selling wholesale to restaurants: Have a great dinner, then enjoy a scoop of Bold Spoon Creamery ice cream with your apple pie – that sort of thing. Her brother, Brad Burns, a chef at Lorenzo’s Trattoria on the Hill, wasn’t sold on the idea at first. “He was kind of confused how this was going to work without having a scoop shop,” she explained. Her decision not to open a storefront was simple: A scoop shop would need to be open during business hours with no exception, and she didn’t want that kind of rigid structure – not for her, not for her family and not for her employees. “It will work,” Burns told her brother. “Trust me.”

With a plan down on paper, she jumped through all the legal hoops and certifications. She found a commercial kitchen in the Central West End and ordered equipment. But by the time the equipment arrived, it was March 2020, and suddenly the pandemic slapped a question mark on every line of her newly minted business plan.

Was the kitchen she was renting even open? How could she ask restaurants to try her ice cream when they didn’t know how they’d pay their employees?

She needed a new path – one not focused on selling to restaurants.

So, she did what any entrepreneur would do: She made ice cream. She gave it away to friends, and then one day, she dropped it off at the homes of a

few neighbors. “Usually no one would be home to accept it, but everyone was home,” she recalled of those early quarantine days. “So, I’d put it on the doorstep, ring the doorbell [and] run back to the street, because I didn’t know, could you be 10 feet away? 20 feet? Who the hell knows? … And [I’d] say, ‘Hi, my name’s Rachel. I live around the corner.

Just wanted to share some ice cream with you and, if you really like it, you can order it online.’”

Her first order came in that very same day. “It was $40,” she recalled. “It wasn’t life-changing money, clearly, but it was enough of a nugget that makes you think this ridiculous thing might actually work.”

And so, her obsession grew. She’d invite friends over – a group she lovingly deemed “The Spoons” – to taste test everything. She’d hand them detailed surveys, some ice cream and spoons. There was no talking and no looking at each other’s papers.

Everyone would get their sample, fill out their survey and then discuss. “I would have questions based on what’s the forward flavor, what’s the background flavor, are they well balanced? What they thought about consistency, the sweetness level.

And I would never tell them what flavor it was, because I didn’t want to shape their thought.” When they were done, they’d all get new spoons for the next flavor. “No cross pollination!” Burns mused.

Soon, you could find Bold Spoon at Tower Grove Farmers’ Market, then a few Schnucks and Straub’s and at The Smokehouse Market in Chesterfield. It wasn’t long before Bold Spoon started outgrowing the commercial kitchen they’d been renting in the Central West End. Burns also wanted Bold Spoon to be more than just another pint of ice cream on the shelf. She thought back to what made those original batches of ice cream out by the pool so irresistible: The fresh mint she plucked from a few feet away and threw in.

May 2023

salted chocolat ice cream from bold spoon creamery

May 2023

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She and Wilkinson began looking for property in the country. Within six months, they’d found a farm with a building they could turn into a commercial kitchen that also had space for gardens and orchards. It was about an hour from the city, so they could easily visit their grocery clients and still be close to Burns’ father.

Over the next few months, they gutted the building, built it up for food service and bought equipment. They planted pear, peach and

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apple trees and a garden full of strawberries, raspberries and herbs. Soon they were able to harvest the fruit, walk it into the kitchen and toss it into the ice cream. “Someone asked me, ‘So, you live on an ice cream farm?’” Burns recalled. “I was like, ‘Well, I guess we do.’”

While waiting for the trees to take root in the orchard, Burns and Wilkinson began teaming up with local vendors to host dinners at the farm and hosting open houses with some games and, of

course, ice cream. The commercial business picked up too. The shelves at 20 Schnucks locations turned into 80. And then came the day when the phone rang asking them to be part of CityPark.

“The opportunity is beyond amazing,” Burns said. “I think it’s amazing that the stadium has an express initiative around the food to make it local, like a reflection of our broader region, which is something unique I think in sports.” Unique, indeed. Just like an ice cream farm.

May 2023

ice creams from bold spoon creamery

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family owned, family grown.

join us this season for wine flights, live music, events & more!

open daily Located in the heart of Augusta, MO, the first designated AVA in the country! noboleisvineyards.com

638.482.4500

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100 hemsath rd., augusta, mo, 63332

May 2023

PARTNER CONTENT

wine time COMPILED BY LAUREN HEALEY

PHOTO COURTESY OF ISTOCK

Whether you’re looking to get out of the city and head to one of the fine wineries in Midwest wine country or you’re just trying to sip a glass or two at a restaurant around town, this list has options aplenty for vinophiles.

May 2023

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PARTNER CONTENT

Award-winning Chaumette Vineyards & Winery is much more than just a winery with elegant accommodations, quality entertainment, gracious service and a magnificent view of rolling hills in Sainte Genevieve County. After suffering a fire in 2021, Chaumette has put considerable work into building their new winery, making new wine and bringing back their wine club. This premier wine resort destination offers private villas for overnight stays, a pool and an award-winning restaurant ranked the No. 1 winery restaurant in the nation

by USA Today, along with wedding and event venues. The tasting room is open to the public year-round with live entertainment outdoors in warmer months. The 2021 Vintages – including Shumate Blanc, Oaked Chardonel, Dry Vignoles, Hugueot Red and Norton – are currently available, and look for 2022 Vintages coming soon.

24345 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, 573.747.1000, chaumette.com

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Crown Valley Winery Crown Valley, which opened in 2003, is just an hour south of St. Louis and offers gorgeous views of rolling hills and breathtaking vineyards. There’s a wide array of wines, with 27 varieties to choose from, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Chambourcin, along with some unique options like Blackberry Bling and Pink Sangria.

Visitors can enjoy live music every Saturday from 1 to 5 p.m. from April through October. There’s spacious outdoor and indoor seating, and picnic baskets are welcome. There are also several beautiful venues, including a pavilion and the Barrel Room, perfect for weddings, parties and retreats. In addition, there are lodging options for those wishing to stay overnight.

23589 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, 573.756.9463, crownvalleywinery.com

Defiance Ridge Vineyards Nestled in 42 sprawling acres of vineyards, lush gardens and a tranquil lake just 30 minutes west of St. Louis in the hills of Historic Missouri Wine Country, Defiance Ridge offers

vineyard-to-table cuisine, live music and succulent estate wines, as well as exclusive varietals from the West Coast. The winery is open seven days a week year-round. Looking to host your next private event? Defiance Ridge is also the perfect spot for weddings, private parties and corporate outings. The facility offers a spacious layout featuring a wide array of options for guests of all sizes.

It was also a winner of The Knot’s “Best Of” Weddings Hall of Fame 2021 and 2022.

2711 S. MO. 94, Defiance, 636.798.2288, defianceridgevineyards.com

Edera Italian Eatery At Edera Italian Eatery, you’ll find an impressive list of dozens of smallproduction, handmade Italian wines, as well as Italian varietals from around the world. The list is curated

by Tim Foley, sommelier and general manager, who got his start working for Emeril Lagasse at Delmonico in New Orleans as a bartender, then a sommelier and bar manager. He came to St. Louis as the beverage director of the Ritz-Carlton, then opened and owned Erato on South Grand and in

Edwardsville before landing at Edera.

He chooses crowd-friendly, modern styles of wine, each of which features a short description on the list. Have a glass or a bottle on their stunning courtyard patio this season.

314.361.7227, 48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, ederastl.com

Hermann Wine Trail Winding through some of the prettiest scenery in Missouri, the Hermann Wine Trail hugs the Missouri River for 30 miles between Hermann and New Haven. Along the way, seven family-owned wineries are open for tasting and tours. From quaint country farm settings to historic wine cellars, you will experience rich history and a variety of wine styles such as dry red Norton and versatile aromatic Vignoles. Guests are invited to visit and explore Hermann wine country any time of the year. Hermann Wine Trail wineries offer award-winning wine, beautiful views and smalltown hospitality. Visit for a day or a weekend and explore them all.

Open year-round, you can enjoy daily wine tastings and participate in six trail events featuring wine and food pairings. Advance tickets are required

PHOTO COURTESY OF ISTOCK

Chaumette Vineyards & Winery

May 2023

Wine Trail

EVENTS

Wild Bacon May 6-7

Berries & BarBQ July 29-30

Holiday Fare

November 18-19

Say Cheese December 9

Chocolate

February 24-25, 2024

Farmers’ Table April 6, 2024

AdvAnce tickets required

W

inding through some of the prettiest scenery in Missouri, the Hermann Wine Trail meanders for 30 miles along the Missouri River between Hermann and New Haven. Nestled along the trail, seven charming family-owned wineries are open for tasting and tours.

HermannWineTrail.com

HermannWineTrail.com 573.486.2313

For tickets 573.486.2313 • Other inquires 573.294.2228

Other inquires 573.294.2228

Adam Puchta • Bias • Curling Vine • G. Husmann • Hermannhof • Reserve Cellars • Röbller

May 2023

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PARTNER CONTENT

for wine trail events. Purchase online or by phone from the Hermann Chamber of Commerce at 573.486.2313.

For general wine trail information, call 573.294.2228, HermannWineTrail.com

Noboleis Vineyards Situated on 84 acres in the first designated AVA in the country, Noboleis Vineyards offers panoramic views of the historic, rolling hills of Augusta. Grab a bottle of one of their award-winning wines grown in the region and produced right on their family-owned property. Nosh on pizza and appetizers or pack your own picnic basket to enjoy on the lawn, under the tented pavilion or inside overlooking the bustling winery. Live music every Saturday and Sunday during season adds to the beautiful atmosphere created at Noboleis.

Open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and open until 8 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays in season.

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, 636.482.4500, noboleisvineyards.com

with wines, craft and import beers, and handcrafted cocktails. The food menu is seasonal and uses local ingredients whenever possible. Robust offers a wide selection of wines by the glass, wine flights and full bottles. All wines are “clean,” using sustainable, biodynamic practices, with little or no preservatives; they are better for the environment and your body. Wines are listed by Robust Factor™, a userfriendly method of categorizing wines by body style profile, rather than country or region. Robust also offers a line of wellness and better-for-you-

Highlands. Since then, the winery has grown to be Missouri's largest and most awarded winery, with nearly 185 acres of grape production. Visitors enjoy wine tastings, wine by the glass, and wine slushies made from the expansive wine list. The winery offers the opportunity to spend your afternoon in The Gardens at St. James, a beautifully landscaped outdoor space that is shared between the Public House Brewing Co. and the winery. The Gardens is the perfect place to gather and relax, and enjoy

PHOTO COURTESY OF WILD SUN WINERY AND BREWERY

Robust Bistro & Wine Bar Robust Bistro & Wine Bar in downtown Webster Groves is an award-winning restaurant that offers eclectic entrees, small plates, cheeses and charcuterie that can be paired

May 2023

1780 E. Illinois 15, Belleville, 618.257.9463, theweingarten.com

Wild Sun Winery and Brewery A Readers' Choice Favorite Winery

Parker’s Table Hidden behind the Cheshire Inn on the west side of Forest Park is St. Louis' own Parker's Table. This shop is an immersive, small-retail experience that goes beyond the incredible wines, beers, foods, cheeses and sandwiches that they sell. It is a shop where the St. Louis food community gathers and crosses paths. Their knowledgeable staff thoughtfully guides novices and experienced food and beverage lovers alike.

7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com

and international wines, including some non-alcoholic options. The kitchen offers everything from spinach-artichoke dip to soups, salads and flatbread pizzas. Need somewhere to host a corporate event? The Weingarten Belleville can host groups up to 200 people for breakfast meetings, luncheons, retreats or happy hours, perfect for team building and holiday events.

beverages, featuring cold-pressed juices, alkaline and probiotic waters, as well as locally sourced bone broth.

Private parties, catering, retail wine and gifts, along with live music on the patio, are additional features that have made Robust Bistro a unique gem in the Webster community for more than 15 years.

227 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.0033, robustwinebar.com

St. James Winery St. James Winery was established in 1970 in the heart of the Missouri

the locally inspired Public House menu with the best beer and wine that Missouri has to offer.

540 State Route B, St. James, 800.280.9463, stjameswinery.com

The Weingarten Belleville A premier relaxation destination with events year-round, The Weingarten Belleville boasts 21 acres of beautiful countryside just 25 minutes from downtown St. Louis. Best known for its signature strawberry sangria, The Weingarten Belleville also features local, national

In addition to award winning wines and craft beers, this beautiful 10-acre estate, 30 minutes south of St. Louis in Hillsboro, boasts magnificent trees that are hundreds of years old, majestic rolling hills, a park-like setting and an iconic historic main house originally built in 1870. Founded by co-owners Ed Wagner, an Anheuser-Busch alum, and Mark Baehmann, a renowned career winemaker, Wild Sun opened to the public in September 2015 and has become a premier destination for dry wine and craft beer enthusiasts. Choose from a variety of wines ranging from cabernet sauvignon to fan-favorite Radiance, a dry white wine similar to a pinot grigio. Or you can choose from one of the amazing craft beers such as the American Blonde Ale, Sky IPA or the Wild Citrus Ale, a unique, refreshingly crisp beer with hints of lemon and grapefruit. Complement your beverage choices with delicious food from the kitchen or feel free to bring your own picnic basket. Open year-round, Wild Sun features live music Friday nights and Saturday and Sunday afternoons May through October or as weather allows.

Follow them on Facebook and Instagram or check out the calendar at wildsun.com.

4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, 636.797.8686, wildsun.com

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May 2023

The Magnificent

SEVEN C E R TA I N N A M E S I N B E E R A R E S Y N O N Y M O U S W I T H T H E SOCIAL HISTORY AND CULTURE OF THE CITIES THEY ARE B R E W E D I N . T H E R E ’ S M I L WA U K E E A N D M I L L E R O R PA B S T (TO NAME TWO); DUBLIN AND GUINNESS; AMSTERDAM AND HEINEKEN; MUNICH AND ITS “BIG SIX” BREWERIES; A N D , O F C O U R S E , S T. L O U I S A N D A N H E U S E R - B U S C H .

W E ’ R E H A P P Y T O D R I N K A B U D L I G H T T O A . B . ’ S L E G A C Y, BUT WE’RE ALSO THINKING ABOUT NEW ICONS: IN T H E A G E O F C R A F T B E E R , W H AT L O C A L B E E R S A R E S Y N O N Y M O U S W I T H L I F E I N S T. L O U I S ? W E A S K E D L O C A L CRAFT BEER EXPERTS FOR THEIR THOUGHTS ON THE BEERS T H AT H AV E H A D T H E G R E AT E S T I M PA C T O N T H E WAY T H I S C I T Y D R I N K S , S O C I A L I Z E S A N D U N D E R S TA N D S B E E R , A N D NARROWED IT DOWN TO SEVEN.

BY IAIN SHAW // PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN May 2023

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2nd Shift Brewing Katy

Brett yeast gives Katy its funky character, a quality that set it apart when it launched in 2013, three years before 2nd Shift Brewing relocated from New Haven to its current home on the Hill. “The brewing scene in St. Louis got really excited about that beer when it came out,” said Perennial Artisan Ales co-owner Emily Wymore. The funky notes of sour beers and saisons are now familiar to avid beer drinkers, but Earthbound Beer co-owner Stuart Keating described Katy as “St. Louis’ breakout sour.”

It’s not a “wild” beer, but it can credibly claim to have influenced consumer tastes and opened the market for the kind of flavor profiles that breweries like Side Project have refined. “Funk can be a very divisive flavor profile in beer, especially to a group of people used to drinking Busch or Budweiser, but [Katy] was approachable,” said beer writer Katie Herrera. “Katy was just always there, it was always a part of the scene. It was always a part of the conversation.”

4 Hands Brewing Co. City Wide Pale Ale

As ubiquitous as it is versatile and sessionable, 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s pale ale with a philanthropic twist is perhaps the most instantly recognizable beer on this list; but there’s more to this beer’s iconic status than the flag of St. Louis emblazoned on the can. Brewed with Centennial, Citra and Simcoe hops, the pale ale is “such a good, classic American pale ale that you can drink anytime,” according to Abby Spencer, head brewer at Third Wheel Brewing.

Since 2016, 4 Hands has donated a dollar from every purchase of a case of City Wide to a variety of causes, giving back over $300,000 to date. “You come to St. Louis, you can’t not see City Wide,” said Manny Negron, owner of the forthcoming Little Lager and formerly a general manager at beer distributor Craft Republic. “It’s painted on murals, its philanthropic ventures have been massive and have had a lasting effect on the city.” It’s testament to City Wide’s impact that it has evolved an identity that’s almost distinct from 4 Hands itself. “It’s just a symbol of St. Louis beer, almost as symbolic as the Anheuser-Busch eagle,” said Katie Herrera.

Civil Life Brewing Co. American Brown Ale Such is the regard for Civil Life’s American Brown Ale among local brewers that few even put up a competitor to this complex but easy-drinking classic. And forget about competition from outside imports. “Nobody in St. Louis would really think about drinking another brown ale that isn’t from the St. Louis area,” said Abbey Spencer. The American Brown was among the beers that put Civil Life on the map in 2011, and though it’s well-known far

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beyond St. Louis, it’s truly beloved at home. Civil Life’s brewing team invests love and rigorous pursuit of consistency into a beer that’s “crazy true to its style,” in Spencer’s words. “I know every time I’m going out and getting it, it’s going to be good,” said Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. owner and head brewer Jeff Hardesty. Herrera said it’s best enjoyed in the classic pub atmosphere of Civil Life’s taproom, and we tend to agree.

Perennial Artisan Ales Abraxas

With Abraxas, a silky, 11.5%-ABV Imperial stout blending notes of ancho chile peppers, cacao nibs, cinnamon sticks and vanilla beans, Perennial set a new bar for local stouts and created a phenomenon that continues to gather new admirers with each new Abraxas release. “It was really a beer that wasn’t like anything else around at the time,” said Hardesty. “Stouts are very different from when Abraxas was first released compared to now, so it’s definitely one of those things where that beer helped shape what the beers today came from.” The scramble to snap up each iteration of Abraxas, and the quality of the beer itself, burnished St. Louis’ reputation – and our civic pride – as a craft beer hub. “The beer nerds just went crazy on the forums; people were trading for it all over the United States and they all wanted it, so it kind of took off as a really highly desired beer,” said Troy Meier, founder and former president of STL Hops Homebrew Club. “Probably one of the first pastry stouts in the craft beer movement that got super popular from a nationwide perspective.” Collecting 750-millileter limited edition beer releases isn’t for everyone, but for collectible-curious St. Louisans, Abraxas remains a gateway to that scene.

Schlafly Beer Pale Ale

We received shout-outs for several Schlafly beers, but of all the brews produced over the years by the granddaddy of St. Louis craft breweries, Schlafly’s Pale Ale has the deepest resonance in the hearts and minds of local beer drinkers. “The balance of malt and hops in a good pale ale is particularly fine, and I used Schlafly’s Pale Ale as my benchmark when we set out to develop our own pale ale,” said Keating.

For some, especially those with long memories, this English-style pale ale brewed with British hops was their first encounter with the concept of craft beer.

“Back in the early ’90s, early 2000s, if a beer bar was going to carry a craft beer, it was that beer,” said Troy Meier, founder and former president of STL Hops Homebrew Club. Thirty years on, it’s an institution. “It’s just so nice to have this craft brewery that had the gumption to open up in a city with no craft beer,” said Spencer. “I love drinking

Schlafly when I get the chance because I’m like, ‘Yeah, I’m drinking the guys who made it realistic for all of us.’”

Side Project Brewing Saison Du Fermier

Side Project and its beers are arguably admired more widely in the world of beer than any other St. Louis craft brewery, and yet it’s still possible to meet locals who have never visited either of the brewery’s Maplewood outposts. But whatever Side Project’s beers lack in pure market reach or name recognition, they make up for in the impact they leave on those who drink them. Wymore made the case for Saison Du Fermier as the Side Project beer that started it all.

“It was Side Project’s first release, and [Cory King] cultivated all of his yeast himself,” Wymore said. “We didn’t have anything like that in St. Louis yet. He’s obviously made a huge name for himself since, so I definitely would include that one.” Hardesty agreed.

“It kind of brought mixed fermentation more in the light and continues to be one of my favorite beers that Side Project has out there,” he said.

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Zwickel

Urban Chestnut is another widely respected craft brewer whose lineup splits the vote, but this lightly hopped Bavarian lager makes the cut over other Urban Chestnut brews. With its crisp, dry finish and hint of hoppiness speaking to the rich tradition of German-style brewing in St. Louis, Zwickel has always made the case for craft lager and made it well. Zwickel received shout-outs in our conversations from figures including Schlafly founding brewer Stephen Hale, as well as former Sauce contributor and former Sauce Magazine beer contributor Eric Hildebrandt. Whether it’s a float trip, barbecue or birthday party, your beer cooler lineup would be poorer – and just a little bit less St. Louis – without Zwickel.

2nd Shift Brewing 1601 Sublette Ave No. 2, St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com 4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com Civil Life Brewing Co. 3714 Holt Ave., St. Louis, civil-life-online.square.site Perennial Artisan Ales 8125 Michigan Ave., St. Louis; 216 W. Lockwood Ave., Unit B Webster Groves, perennialbeer.com Schlafly Beer multiple locations, schlafly.com Side Project Brewing 7458 Manchester Road; 7373 Marietta Ave., Maplewood, sideprojectbrewing.com Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com

May 2023

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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O

“Vin Fraiche Wine Group is our collection of four small boutique wineries, kind of all over the world:

We’re in Bordeaux, Tuscany, Provence, Napa, Sonoma, Oregon and Washington. They’re all wineries that I own with partners, and we focus on singlevineyard sites – really focused, boutique production wines.”

“We have an amazing tasting room in Napa Valley and two estates in Tuscany where we host people. So,

we have a big hospitality aspect on top of the winemaking. And then we distribute our wines in 21 states and seven countries.”

“What we do is very different. Most wineries are

one winery, and so you typically live on-site, you might have a tasting room, you definitely make wine, obviously, and you probably sell it around.”

“We’re a lot different in that our wineries are spread out. We have teams

MICHAEL KENNEDY IMAGES COURTESY OF SUZANNE BECKER BRONK PHOTOGRAPHY

FOUNDER, VIN FRAICHE WINE GROUP

Growing up in St. Louis, Michael Kennedy’s imagination was captured by wine at the tender age of 12, thanks to a French teacher from Bordeaux. A post-college job at Chandler Hill Vineyards in Defiance quickly snowballed into a career in wine with the Ritz-Carlton, first in Washington, D.C., and then as head sommelier at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman, where he worked with world-renowned chef Eric Ripert. In 2018, he founded Vin Fraiche Wine Group, which is headquartered in St. Louis and encompasses Component Wine Co., SOM Wines, GagnonKennedy Vineyards and La Caccia di San Giovanni. Here, Kennedy discusses the unique aspects of Vin Fraiche’s business model and how St. Louis’ wine culture has evolved since he first started working in the industry. – Liz Wolfson May 2023

in most of the places, but how much we invest in hospitality is a big piece of what we do. The way we distribute is very different because we created this company, Vin Fraiche, to manage the logistics and production and distribution and even hospitality.”

“So, it is a little different, and it’s certainly different that we’re so spread around the world. That’s

something only huge companies typically do. For a small company like ours to do it, it’s a unique model.”

“We started our first winery with the 2014 vintage, which we released in 2016. And that started this

It’s been a crazy decade, for sure.”

“Wine drinking [in St. Louis] has evolved so much. When

I was coming up … it was very much focused on the classics. It was like, ‘Oh, we love Burgundy, Bordeaux and Italy here in St. Louis.’ We weren’t a big West Coast [wine] city, we didn’t really drink much California wine or Oregon wine.”

“I remember when Chris Kelling opened Elmwood, the wine list there was heavily California because

he had been out at [The Restaurant at] Meadowood and Napa. And it was like, all the cool kids of West Coast wine. That was something St. Louis had never had before Chris Kelling did that.”

“Since then, I think he and Bill Kniep from Pinnacle [Imports] and Tony Bommarito with his Analog Selections, I think they’ve

ushered in this whole new wave of American wines that are, in some cases, way more interesting than things in the Old World. People are really taking risks on wine.” “[There is] a lot more natural wine in St. Louis, which is awesome to see –

because I think it’s the future. I don’t think natural wine as we know it now will stay this way; I think the two worlds of wine will collapse on each other, because they’re going to be pulled to the center of gravity. It’s a revolution in wine, and it’s the future. So, it’s so great to see St. Louis ahead of that.”

Wines from the Vin Fraiche portfolio of wineries are available locally at retailers whole cascade; it seems like including The Wine Merchant, every two years after that, Clayton Winehouse and St. Louis we started another one. And Wine Market, and at restaurants maybe we’ve stopped now, I such as Olive + Oak, Annie don’t know. Probably not. We Gunn’s, Casa Don Alfonso and just bought our fifth last month. more. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K

THE PAT CONNOLLY TAVERN

BY I A I N S H AW

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May 2023

Pat Connolly moved to the U.S. from his hometown of Dunmore, in Ireland’s County Galway, in 1927. When Connolly opened Pat Connolly’s Tavern (as it was originally known) at 6400 Oakland Ave. in 1942, the bar was a perfect fit for the neighborhood. In the early 20th century, jobs in clay mining, steel and meatpacking had pulled a growing Irish community from the “Kerry Patch,” its historic North City enclave, to settle in Dogtown. “Dogtown at the time when Pat would have opened this pub up was very much a working-class community,” said Joe Jovanovich, who currently co-owns the bar with his mother (and Pat’s daughter), Theresa Connolly Jovanovich.

In the early 1950s, Connolly installed a kitchen and changed the name of the bar to Pat’s Bar and Grill. “It was meatloaf and spaghetti with red sauce and chicken-fried steak and fried fish,” Jovanovich said, describing that era’s menu as American comfort food. “It had little to do with anything that Pat knew how to cook – he just hired some ladies who came to the table with that skill set.” Jovanovich acknowledges fried chicken was an unlikely signature dish for a pub run by an Irishman, but it became a go-to at Pat Connolly’s Tavern.

By the time the Blues arrived, however, it was no longer Pat Connolly’s bar.

In 1960, Connolly sold the bar to Tom McDermott, one of his bartenders, though Connolly’s family retained ownership of the building. The bar was renamed McDermott’s, although a “Pat’s Bar & Grill” sign remained on display outside the bar for the duration of that period. Jovanovich noted you can probably guess a person’s age based on how they refer to the bar.

“There are some folks out there who still call it McDermott’s,” he said.

Jovanovich’s family resumed ownership of the bar in 1980, and his parents, Theresa and Paul, ran the bar, renaming it Pat’s Bar & Grill. Growing up around the bar, Jovanovich gained a keen appreciation for its place in his family’s history. In 2014, when yet another owner’s departure put the bar’s future in question, he and his mom Theresa stepped in to take the reins.

“I was motivated certainly by a sense of nostalgia, family history and wanting to see the place prosper and sort of restore it to some former glory,” he said. “I didn’t like the idea of the place just like going out of business.”

Jovanovich and his mother began by renaming the bar The Pat Connolly Tavern, in homage to his grandfather. “We wanted to bring it back full circle,” he said. “When [Pat] added on the ‘Bar and Grill,’ he took the Connolly out of the name. We can only guess his motivations for that, but we

thought it was only appropriate to put that Connolly back in there. Just to pay tribute to him, and our family, and that Irish immigrant story.”

The past eight years have been a labor of love for Jovanovich, Theresa and their team, driven by the desire to keep the bar relevant while affirming what made it great in the first place.

They reworked the menu with an eye on enhancing quality, but many of the recipes for favorite items, including the fried chicken, have been retained.

With the help of John Corbett and the Dogtown Historical Society, the Griesedieck Brothers beer mural on the building’s east wall was recreated.

Meanwhile, Jovanovich wanted the neon Budweiser sign to be illuminated again.

“It wasn’t working when we took over,” he said. “It’s been a bit of a cash cow, but it’s a prestige thing – it’s one of the very few neon signs like that that are left.”

Another change of ownership is on the horizon, with David Guller set to take ownership of The Pat Connolly Tavern in June. This time, Pat Connolly’s descendants appear to be getting out of the bar game for good, but Jovanovich said they’ve accomplished what they set out to achieve. “I’m just really proud that we kept it going, we got it across that 80-year mark of continuous operation since my grandfather opened it,” he said.

“I hope that future operators can keep it going past that 100-year mark.”

6400 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.7287, patconnollytavern.com

PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK

The debut of the St. Louis Blues at the nearby St. Louis Arena in 1967 heralded an exciting new era for the bar. “That’s when this place definitely entered the broader public consciousness,” Jovanovich said.

The pub’s proximity to the arena made it an essential stop before or after a Blues game right up until 1994, when the venue closed for good. “When I was a kid, I very vividly remember Blues game nights here

being just bananas,” Jovanovich said. “It was definitely a loss for the neighborhood and a loss for our business when the Blues moved, but thankfully, the place found a way to stay resilient.”

May 2023

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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O

MAY

BY ALEXANDER OLSON

Good Magic Dinner Series by Balkan Treat Box

Strawberry Fields Forever May 4 & 11 – 6 to 9 p.m., Eckert’s Belleville Farm, 951 S. Green Mount Road, Belleville, 800.745.0513, eckerts.com Looking for a refreshing night out? Look no further.

Your night will begin at the Cider Shed, sipping on a specialty strawberry cocktail. Before long, you will be taking a tractor ride to the farm’s own strawberry fields. Meet back at the Cider Shed for a flight of their signature hard ciders, a unique charcuterie board and some groovy music to cap off the night. Tickets available online.

Cinco De Mayo on Cherokee Street May 6 – 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Cherokee Street from Nebraska to Jefferson avenues, St. Louis, cincodemayostl.com This annual celebration floods Cherokee Street with life.

See live lucha libre wrestling matches and the People’s Joy Parade before dancing to live music from two different stages. With over 100 vendors to visit – serving everything from traditional Mexican street food, churros and local bakery treats to fresh margaritas, artisan crafts and more – there is a little something for everyone to try.

Free admission.

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May 8 – 6 p.m., Balkan Treat Box, 8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com Balkan Treat Box is bringing back their Good Magic Dinner Series, this time in collaboration with Adrian Maldonado, a 2023 Sauce Magazine Ones to Watch honoree. The dinner series will feature a blend of Balkan and Latin American flavors paired with local beer, wines and craft cocktails. Tickets available online.

Sauce Food Truck Friday May 12 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4501 Southwest Drive, St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucemagazine.com Like tough choices? Sauce Food Truck Friday offers bites and sips from local food trucks on select Fridays this summer through early fall. The first event of the summer will feature 22 trucks and, luckily, you can’t go wrong with any of them. Free admission.

Spring Fling May 13 – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Cedar Lake Cellars, 11008 Schreckengast Road, Wright City, 636.745.9500, cedarlakecellars.com It’s an all-day party at Cedar Lake Cellars. Bring your friends and try everything you can from the pulled pork at The Smokehouse to the burgers and quesadillas at The Burger Shack. Come early for yard games and their signature wine slushies and stay for the live music and fireworks display. Tickets available online.

Midwest Maifest May 21 – 2 to 6 p.m., New Town Amphitheater, St. Charles, midwestmaifest.org This celebration of German culture features over 30 vendors selling authentic German food, pretzels, ice cream and more. The festivities also include live music by the Übercool German Party Band and D’Fröhliche Schuhplattler. Tickets available online.

Soulard Blues, Brews and Bites Festival May 21 – 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., Soulard Market Park, S. Eighth St., St. Louis, soulardb3fest.com The B3 Festival brings together food, music and culture to celebrate St. Louis heritage in the heart of the city.

The free community event will feature performances by blues musicians like Marsha Evans & The Coalition, Bob “Bumblebee” Kamoske and more. Beer enthusiasts can also enjoy a ticketed tasting, featuring samples from several St. Louis craft breweries. Be sure to grab a bite from one of more than 20 food vendors before visiting the local artists peppered around the festival. Tickets for the beer tasting are available online. denotes a sauce-sponsored event

May 2023

May 2023

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