July 2015

pizza and beer from katie's pizza & pasta p. 35

HAPPY HOUR

L I KE A B OS S 22 PLACES TO UNWIND AFTER WORK

READERS' CHOICE R E S U L T S (FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER)

DRINK LIKE A PAT R I O T

ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

July 2015

P. 25

5 NEW PLACES

T O

T R Y P. 10

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

W H E R E T O E AT TO LIVE FOREVER P. 40 FREE, JULY 2015

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contents JULY 2015

dine & drink

editors' picks 9

25

EAT THIS

A SEAT AT THE BAR

Fish tacos at Taqueria Durango

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

10

by glenn bardgett, cory king, and ted and jamie kilgore

HIT LIST 5 new places to try this month

27

12

FIXATIONS 8 items at the top of our shopping list right now

COCKTAILS Drink like a patriot

by ted and jamie kilgore 28

reviews 15

NEW AND NOTABLE Avenue

by michael renner 18

VEGETIZE IT Chicken tikka masala

by kellie hynes 31

MAKE THIS Beef kebabs

Boneless pork chop at Avenue p. 15

by dee ryan

POWER LUNCH Ferguson Burger Bar & More

last course

by tim woodcook 21

NIGHTLIFE

44

STUFF TO DO

Ernesto's Wine Bar

by kristin schultz

by matt berkley

46

WHAT I DO Mengesha Yohannes of Bar Italia

by ligaya figueras

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

(Flip the magazine over to see Readers' Choice Winners.)

What are your favorite places to eat, drink and shop? We asked; you voted.

We tallied, then tallied again. Check out the 2015 Readers' Choice results, which include victors like Strange Donuts, voted Favorite Doughnut Shop (That's Strange Donuts co-owners Corey Smale and Jason Bockman on the cover). A Saucy congrats to all the winners!

Photo by Ashley Gieseking

July 2015

Features 32

HAPPY HOUR LIKE A BOSS 22 places to unwind after work

by ligaya figueras, catherine klene, meera nagarajan, maggie pearson, kristin schultz, stacy schultz and ben wood

40

WHERE TO EXPLORE NEXT

COVER DETAILS Happy Hour Like a Boss Pizza and Beer from Katie's Pizza & Pasta is just one of many tasty ways to unwind after work. Read about this and other top happy hours in town on p. 32.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

Fresh & healthy eats

by jill duncan

42

GET JUICED Put the squeeze to summer produce with fresh juice recipes from the pros

by kristin schultz saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

J U LY 2 015 • VO LUM E 15, ISSU E 7 What do you PUBLISHER cook when it's EXECUTIVE EDITOR 100 degrees ART DIRECTOR outside?

MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL

SPECIAL SECTIONS EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR STAFF WRITER FACT CHECKERS PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Charred kosher hot dogs on the grill

Italian rice salad or a big ol' panzanella. My husband will turn to cereal for survival.

EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

To carry Sauce Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004 or amace@saucemagazine.com.

All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2015 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Sugar snap pea

Allyson Mace salad with a lemon vinaigrette, mint Ligaya Figueras leaves and big Meera Nagarajan Parmesan curls Catherine Klene Ligaya Figueras Catherine Klene Kristin Schultz Rebecca Koenig, Kristin Schultz Emily Lowery Michelle Volansky Dustin Bryson, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth Maxson, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Garrett Faulkner, Jackie Parker Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Kristen Chalfant, Jill Duncan, Ligaya Figueras, Sara Graham, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Catherine Klene, Anne Marie Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie Pearson, Spencer Pernikoff, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Stacy Schultz, Tim Woodcock, Ben Wood Rebecca Ryan Rebecca Ryan Allyson Mace Jill George, Angie Rosenberg Jill George Rebecca Biundo, Jacqueline Brogdon, Grace Bueckendorf, Morgan Rinder, Lauren Schumacker

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change.

The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME__________________________________________________________ STREET ADDRESS_________________________________________________ CITY_______________________________ STATE ______ ZIP______________

SEND A $29 CHECK TO: SAUCE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTIONS for a 12-month subscription 1820 Chouteau

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•

St. Louis, MO 63103 July 2015

letter from the editor

The team at Niche with chef-owner Gerard Craft, who wears his 2015 James Beard medal

W

e hope you like this ________.

This dull, fill-in-the-blank sentence is the headline the Sauce editorial team jokes about using whenever our creative juices run dry. We don’t, thank goodness, even in the 11th hour when we’re crazy-tired, slap-happy and desperately want to send the issue to press so we can just go home to our families. We don’t because know we can do better.

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Settling for subpar is not a recipe for success. It’s not how Sauce recently won Magazine of the Year at the 2015 Great Plains Journalism Awards. It’s not why two Sauce writers, Michael Renner and Julie Cohen, are 2015 finalists for Association of Food Journalists awards for restaurant criticism and beer, wine and spirits writing, respectively.

Our priority is always to serve you, our reader, but we are grateful when industry professionals recognize our efforts. In the case of our Great Plains award, we are thrilled that the judging panel, comprised of formidable editors and writers from around the country, deemed our magazine the best in an eight-state region. The judges felt that Sauce “conveys passion and knowledge of food and dining without being beholden to the industry,” “conveys diversity in the region” and has a “strong editorial voice and food photography.” Those are our goals with each and every issue.

Innumerable St. Louis restaurants, bars and shops likewise hold themselves to high standards in an effort to serve you.

This year’s Readers’ Choice winners (flip the magazine to see the results) are comprised 65 restaurants, chefs, bartenders, shops and markets that refuse to let you down. You voted July 2015

them your favorite and you patronize their businesses because you can rely on them to fulfill your dining, drinking and shopping needs.

All of the 2015 Readers’ Choice winners deserve commendations for their commitment to excellence and for their efforts in making St. Louis a food town to be reckoned with. One person in particular merits a shoutout: Gerard Craft, whom you voted Chef of the Year. In May, Craft, chefowner of Niche, Pastaria, Brasserie and Taste, won a coveted James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef: Midwest. I was privileged to be in attendance for the awards ceremony in Chicago and witness Craft accept the honor, a first for a St. Louis-based chef. My Twitter-happy fingers trembled when Craft took the stage because it was such a milestone in St. Louis’ culinary history. Craft acknowledged that the honor was not his alone. He thanked his stalwart wife, Suzie Craft, and his dedicated staff, past and present. He then invited the audience of famous chefs to come eat in St. Louis.

Ligaya Figueras

I hope the pages of this issue inspire to you to heed Craft’s invitation and taste what St. Louis has to offer: a food and drink scene turning heads around the country. Lucky for us, it’s right in our own backyard.

Cheers,

Ligaya Figueras Executive editor saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

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editors' picks

EAT THIS

The GRILLED FISH TACOS at TAQUERIA DURANGO are minimalist and marvelous. Succulent pieces of flaky white fish are grilled, chopped, piled onto little corn tortillas and finished with diced white onion, a dusting of chopped cilantro and a wedge of lime on the side. You could dip them in a duo of zesty salsas to add a dash of heat, but really, these PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

simple beauties are perfect as they are.

10238 PAGE AVE., OVERLAND, 314.429.1113, FACEBOOK: TAQUERIA DURANGO

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hit list

5 new places to try this month

1

SOUTHERN

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Fried chicken has come home to roost in St. Louis, and chef Rick Lewis is adding to the flock with Southern. The former Quincy Street Bistro chef partnered with Pappy’s owner Mike Emerson to open a lunchtime eatery next door to the venerable barbecue joint in Midtown. Southern serves up Nashville-style hot chicken – fried chicken that takes a dip in spicy oil before hitting your tongue with a one-two punch of sweet heat. Order a plate of two, three or four pieces and choose your spice level (mild, Cluckin’ Hot or General Tso’s), then pair it with two sides, such as toothsome mac-n-cheese and Southern greens cooked with salt pork, along with the requisite slice of bread and pickles. Not feeling fried? Order one of nine monster sandwiches, like the Cubano made with Pappy’s pulled pork, house ham, brown ale mustard, bread-and-butter pickles and Gruyere cheese grilled to melty goodness on the flattop. Grab a fountain soda or (soon) a bottle of beer and kick back with a tray of down-home goodness.

3108 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.531.4668, stlsouthern.com

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4 South County residents, take CELLAR note: Date HOUSE night just got a whole lot closer to home. Cellar House, the companion restaurant connected to Oakville bottle shop Bottle Cellars, boasts an expansive bar program with 240 bottles of wine (and another 20 by-the-glass options), nearly 30 craft brews and a full spirits selection with 45 whiskey options, plus a cocktail menu. Many mixed drinks feature house-infused syrups and liqueurs, like the My Sherry Baby, which combines bourbon, sherry, vermouth and house-made orange-fig syrup before seeing a float of Cointreau.

Sharable dishes dominate the menu.

We savored the spicy heat of the nduja flatbread, which covers the hot sausage paste with a layer of thinly sliced pears, crunchy pistachios, crumbled blue cheese and a drizzle of honey. Cellar House also offers a trio of juicy freerange bison sliders topped with Marcoot Tipsy Cheddar and a generous smear of house-made tomato-bacon jam.

2 O’Fallon Brewery, among the area’s first craft breweries, has always lacked one crucial element: a tasting room for fans to gather, sample and enjoy. Now in its 15th year, O’Fallon has finally taken the next step – and it’s a big one. The new 40,000-square-foot brewery is full of glass walls and sleek, modern lines befitting its new home in a sea of industrial office complexes near Westport Plaza. In the tasting room, called the O’Bar Grill and Tap Room, 20 taps offer favorites like Zeke’s Pale Ale and Kite Tail. Order a pint or sample a few in a flight of four 5-ounce pours.

Food portions are perfect for a lunch or happy-hour crowd; the sauceless baby back ribs are served four bones to an order, each dry-rubbed then grilled and basted with O’Fallon’s Golden Ale for a crispy, flavorful bite. Lighter fare is available, too, like the harvest salad with fresh berries, candied almonds and a Wheach vinaigrette or the grilled beer lime shrimp whose zing comes from marinating in 5-Day IPA, soy sauce and lime juice.

A craft beer bottle shop has opened on evergrowing, everdiverse Cherokee Street. While Saint Louis Hop Shop’s selection of national craft labels is increasing daily, local suds currently dominate the shelves. Among the more than 70 different beers and ciders, you’ll find all the usual suspects from The Lou – 4 Hands, Crown Valley, Perennial, Schlafly, Urban Chestnut and more. Bottled and canned beer is available off-the-shelf or cold from the coolers, and the shop allows – even encourages – the adventurous thirsty to mix and match, creating their own six-packs. While you ponder which suds to bring home, sip beer from one of the four taps behind a bar fashioned by local woodworking boutique Mwanzi. The tasting bar features a rotating selection that includes brews from Civil Life and Modern Brewery.

Get your fill of eastern Mediterranean fare at fastcasual Tazé in the Mercantile Exchange building downtown. The 115-seat counterstyle restaurant focuses on a buildyour-own meal concept. Start with a house-made pita or a bowl of saffron rice or mixed greens. Next, choose a filling: Options range from gyro-style meat sliced from the spit; tandoori-cooked chicken, beef or pork; or vegetarian picks of portobello mushrooms or falafel.

Top it off with fresh fixings and a house-made sauce such as harissa or tahini. Besides a variety of hummus flavors served with pita chips, Tazé offers a dozen side dishes from baba ghanoush to stuffed grape leaves to an Israeli couscous salad. If you come after 4 p.m., make a meal out of happy hour bites like meatballs with tzatziki and skewered shrimp paired with a pint of local craft beer or a glass of wine. Finish with a Moroccan cookie, a chewy sugar cookie that holds a hint of the North African spice blend ras al-hanout.

2606 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.261.4011, saintlouishopshop.com

626 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.254.7953, tazestreetfood.com

TAZÉ MEDITERRANEAN STREET FOOD

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

O'FALLON BREWERY

45 Progress Parkway, Maryland Heights, 636.474.2337, ofallonbrewery.com July 2015

3

SAINT LOUIS HOP SHOP

6039 Telegraph Road, Oakville, 314.846.5100, Facebook: Cellar House

1 Three-piece chicken plate at Southern 2 Mediterranean fare at fast-casual Tazé

3 Saint Louis Hop Shop 4 Cellar House 5 A flight at O' Fallon Brewery

5

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Fixations From a hipster apron to a salt snob’s companion, here’s what’s at the top of our shopping list right now.

Chef’s Table If competitive culinary TV shows are pop songs, then this new Netflix documentary series is a symphony, a bravura performance that delves into the lives and kitchens of elite chefs like Massimo Bottura and Dan Barber.

Netflix subscription required

Irene’s Homemade Granola Think of this locally made snack as a deconstructed chewy granola bar. Our favorite is a vegan version of the Haley Blend, a mix of honey, almonds, walnuts and coconut oil. $7. Dierbergs, various locations, dierbergs.com

Sunny Paris Seasoning Sprinkle this salt-free spice blend of French pantry staples like shallots, chives, dill weed, tarragon, chervil and bay leaf on eggs, chicken, vegetables or rice. For a bright, cheery spread, mix it with cream cheese. $6 and up. Penzeys Spices, 7338 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.7177; 246 THF Blvd., Chesterfield, 636.778.1129, penzeys.com

Mikkeller’s Book of Beer When Danish gypsy brewer Mikkel Borg Bjergso speaks, beer geeks listen.

The mind behind Mikkeller brewery will get you buzzing about the microbrewing evolution, beer styles and 25 recipes for his sought-after brews. $30. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

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Jacobsen Salt Co. Slide Tin Hand-harvested sea salt in a tiny, fancy tin is the salt snob’s solution for on-the-go seasoning in a pinch. $3. jacobsensalt.com

Knife & Flag Apron If denim aprons by local tattoo artist Sean Baltzell of Tower Classic Tattooing are durable enough to withstand wear by chefs and bartenders around town, they’re hardcore enough for you. $50 and up. Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.4005, bertarellicutlery.com

Brookstone Perfect Drink Plug this digital scale into your iPad, download the app and let even your most inept or inebriated guests pour their perfect cocktails, no measuring tools required. $50. Brookstone, 2448 Saint Louis Galleria, Brentwood, 314.727.5799, brookstone.com

Companion Elderberry Kombucha You don’t have to preach the power of probiotics to enjoy the berry burst and clean, fizzy character of elderberry kombucha by local Companion Kombucha. $5. Local Harvest Grocery, 3108 Morgan Ford Road, St. Louis, 314.865.5260, localharvestgrocery.com

July 2015

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

Trout amandine at Avenue

new and notable

avenue

BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

A

void comparing this restaurant to Bryan and Diane Carr’s other restaurants, I told myself while scanning the menu at Avenue. It would be hard though, since those “other restaurants,” Pomme and Pomme Café & Wine Bar, once shared a Clayton ZIP code with Avenue and canted toward a bistro theme. I certainly shouldn’t compare it to Atlas, the Central West End restaurant they assumed about five years ago when their friends, Michael Roberts and Jean Donnelly, another husband-and-wife team, migrated back to California.

new and notable AVENUE p. 15 / power lunch FERGUSON BURGER BAR & MORE p. 18 / nightlife ERNESTO'S WINE BAR p. 21 July 2015

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green beans. I ordered a side of the carrot flan, just for old-times sake. The trout, along with eggplant involtini, duck confit and beef short ribs, came from the Pomme Classics portion of the menu (see, I wasn’t the only one reminiscing).

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

THE DINING ROOM AT AVENUE IS MODERN BUT WARM with rustic wood accents.

It also paired perfectly with a dry French rosé, just as the white Bordeaux did with the sole and the pinot noir did with the pork chop. But it wasn’t just the selections. It’s that each wine arrived at the proper temperature, a level of attention many restaurants miss. The one drink I will order again next time is the New York Sour, a concoction of bourbon, lemon juice and simple syrup topped with red wine that was as infinitely drinkable as lemonade on a July afternoon.

Running three restaurants? I was exhausted just thinking about it. No wonder the chef-husband and manager-wife wanted to consolidate the two Pommes.

It didn’t matter, though. Here I was on Meramec Avenue, just a block over from where those other places used to be, tucking into an appetizer of sauteed wild mushrooms – meaty, chewy, buttery; could fungus taste any better? – scattered over a thick slice of toasted baguette. I spooned some of the accompanying creamy burrata on top of the mushrooms and bread before taking one perfect, earthy bite. It was a good idea to rename the new place, breaking away from the whole French-word-for-apple thing and avoiding branding problems. “What’s the name of

AT A GLANCE Avenue

that restaurant? PomE? The juice? Pomade?

Plum?” Geez, that had to get old.

sauciness instead of scratching at it with the tines of my fork.

When I reviewed Pomme 12 years ago, I wrote that chef Bryan Carr was a master at cooking elegant, simple meals that were focused and beautifully presented without all the fancy-pants fuss and fluff. Back then, the gnocchi came in brown butter with ricotta, pine nuts, sage and lemon.

Now, house-made burrata – the current darling among restaurants – topped the appetizer of five petite potato dumplings, along with a segment of roasted tomato and sprinkle of chopped basil. The app was gone in a flash. If only the little basket of warm, crusty French bread had shown up before rather than after, I could have sopped up the last bit of delicious buttery

The boneless pork chop was juicy, cooked with fresh lime and sage, and served with plenty of au jus, along with roasted celery, onions, carrots and zucchini.

Fish has always been Carr’s strong suit, and the sole and trout at Avenue were no exceptions. The former – two 4-ounce fillets of mild-tasting, lightly floured, sauteed fish placed over a smattering of sauteed asparagus tips, zucchini and halved cherry tomatoes bathed in an understated saffron jus – exemplified Carr’s deceptively simple approach. The classic trout amandine, sauteed in brown butter and served with a sprinkling of almonds, came atop roasted potatoes and sauteed

Where 12 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton, 314.727.4141, avestl.com

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Don’t Miss Dishes Trout amandine, pork chop, wild mushrooms with burrata

Vibe Modern, sleek interior but warm with rustic wood floors and furniture

Another classic Carr carried over from Pomme was weekend brunch, but fans of lazy weekends and those meltingly delicious blueberry-lemon pancakes already know this. What many may not know is that breakfast and lunch are served daily, proving again that the Carrs don’t sleep.

Where Pomme accommodated only a couple dozen diners, Avenue has the space for twice that many. Yet, even with more room, Avenue hasn’t lost the intimacy of its country-French and Italian roots. Civility and comfort are still valued here, from the jazz soundtrack, still playing classic John Coltrane and Miles Davis, to the simple raw wood and white decor to the welltrained staff to Carr’s nightly strolls through the dining room.

Comparing Avenue to Pomme isn’t exactly comparing apples to apples, but very little has been lost in translation during the transition. The reason? Bryan Carr is still in the kitchen.

Entree Prices $18 to $32

When Mon. to Thu. – 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri. – 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sat. – 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sun. – 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

July 2015

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reviews POWER LUNCH

Power Lunch

FERGUSON BURGER BAR & MORE

BY TIM WOODCOCK | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

Ferguson Burger Bar & More, known less for its food than its backstory as a symbol of resilience amid the Ferguson protests, had a successful first year and is looking to expand to a larger location.

3 WHAT’S IN A NAME? “More” means breakfast and catering, but it has also come to represent the burger bar’s role as a gathering place within Ferguson.

Last year, the Davises opened Ferguson Burger their business the Bar & More day before the 9120 W. Florissant Ave., police shooting of Ferguson, 314.388.0424, Michael Brown Facebook: Ferguson on Aug. 9. While Burger Bar & More protesting and looting took place around them, the burger bar was one of the few businesses that did not close early or board up its windows.

1 TAKE YOUR TIME As customers enter Ferguson Burger Bar & More in the center of a drab strip mall on West Florissant Avenue, they are faced with a dizzying array of choices, with the menu supplemented by ever-changing suggestions on sundry chalkboards. The counter is manned by the husband-and-wife team of Charles and Kizzie Davis [1], who give their patrons plenty of time to narrow their choices and place their orders before taking a seat at one of the five tables. Although the burger bar keeps long hours and can be bustling, on my two recent lunchtime visits, it was never more than moderately busy.

THE TAKEAWAY

BURGERS AND MORE All the burgers, served as singles or doubles, use handmade patties – with beef, turkey or veggie options – and are messy towers stacked high. The signature Garbage Burger [2] is a succulent burger fortified with crispy bacon, enhanced by the satisfying burst of flavor from a fried egg, in addition to the usual trimmings of lettuce, onion, cheese and mayo. My eating partner quipped that the restaurant’s most popular burger covers all the important food groups.

Other burgers on the menu include a bacon cheeseburger, bacon double ranch, Southwest double and double patty melt. All are accompanied by satisfyingly crunchy crinkle-cut fries.

The wings (or “wangs,” as the menu puts it) are as tender as the burgers and even a little messier. Get them slathered with

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2 a sauce. The best-sellers are the sweet ’n’ spicy [4] and the sweetly indulgent peach glaze; other options include hot, honey barbecue, lemon pepper and honey mustard sauce.

For fish lovers, there’s tilapia, catfish, tripe and shrimp. I highly recommend the tilapia [3]. It is lightly seasoned so as to not overpower its delicacy and, contrasted with the astringent flavor of pickles and onions, served on slices of white bread.

SECRET SEASONING Side options include a range of choices from jalapeno poppers to fried

mushrooms to mozzarella sticks. Onion rings and fried okra are both dusted with a house-made secret seasoning that adds a piquant zip to the satisfyingly crisp batter. The fried okra is a standout: For those who cannot abide its viscous consistency, eating it deep-fried reveals its oozing-with-goodness essence.

The Davises have not operated a restaurant before, yet taking over from an existing business, they have poured themselves into creating a popular joint serving hearty, affordable food. The food itself perhaps does not justify a long-distance pilgrimage, but Ferguson Burger Bar & More offers a spirited slice of North County life.

GETTING IT RIGHT The atmosphere was friendly and relaxed.

On both visits, the owners were careful to repeat orders to be sure they got them right.

The Davises were polite, exchanging warm words with regulars, although notably disengaged and busy with other tasks once the food was served.

4 July 2015

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nightlife

reviews

Ernesto’s Wine Bar

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

stream of dark berries and hints of spice and licorice. Bottles hover mostly in the $30 to $50 range. Three-glass wine flights such as the Rockin’ Reds, the Que Syrah Sirah or the Summer Whites are generously poured, and at $15 per flight, provide a nice variety and a bang for your buck.

The Rockin’ Red, which featured a bold trio of Ramsay Cabernet, Revelry Merlot and Composition Red Blend, were exquisite in helping wash down the signature Ernesto’s flatbread. It’s a savory-sweet slab of crispy doughy goodness dotted with creamy goat cheese, luscious little slices of figs and a healthy portion of prosciutto finished with a light sprinkling of greens and a drizzle of balsamic. Simple and straightforward, this was easily the best flatbread on the menu.

The sauteed calamari was an appetizer special that has thankfully made its way to the regular menu. Made for sharing, this one is worth hoarding for yourself as a main. The gentle rings of calamari, sauteed rather than fried, swim in a bowl of chorizo tomato broth (ask your server for some bread to soak up the goodness) that blankets a bed of Parmesan polenta. It’s one of those rare dishes that make you happy just thinking about it.

ORDER IT: Ernesto’s Wine Bar

Ernesto’s Wine Bar 2730 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.4511, ernestoswinebar.com

L

uscious, deep pours of wine and generous shared plates are the standard at Ernesto’s Wine Bar, a Benton Park drinking and eating den with one of the city’s most intimate and secluded patios. This place is more than worthy of a spot on your date-night short list.

is the superbly rich bacon bloody mary, which pairs a house mix with bacon-infused vodka. Thick and satisfying even down to the cubes, the only thing that may have made this cocktail better would have been a strip of crispy bacon itself rather than a skewered olive.

Ernesto’s is inspired by Ernest Hemingway’s travels and love for European style, rather than his hard-drinking ways. The cozy main room is all candlelight, wood and framed still shots of the famed writer in various poses – bellying up to a bar, crouched over a fresh kill on safari or relaxing in wrinkled shirtsleeves with a devilish little smirk.

Ernesto’s hits a winning stride as a wine bar. Geared toward the casual wine drinker, Ernesto’s extensive but nonetheless manageable selection is broken down simply by varietals, then region. The menu is weighted slightly to reds and features a great deal more blends than you’d expect – not necessarily a bad thing and in keeping with its unpretentious and approachable feel. At $10, the Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone is typical of the by-the-glass selections: high quality and smartly priced. The Saint Cosme avoids the fate of a lot of the wishy-washy, flat Cotes du Rhones I’ve had; this highly drinkable red delightfully hits you with a

The cocktail list includes a half-dozen or so randomly chosen – and, for the most part, overly sweet – concoctions such as a figinfused Manhattan called a Fig-hattan or a spiced peach martini. The lone exception to the otherwise underwhelming cocktail menu July 2015

Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone offers dark berry, spice and licorice notes.

The bacon bloody mary pairs bacon-infused vodka with Ernesto’s house bloody mix.

Ernesto’s itself is casual chic – definitely a date-night and small-group crowd and focused on an older, more sophisticated and well-coined clientele. While the interior is a cozy little spot for those enamored with candlelight, the back patio is inviting.

There’s a steady buzz of conversation from the dozen or so tables jammed with couples and friends, laughing, texting, sipping on bent cocktail straws and killing bottles of wine. Not a late-night joint by any means, it’s nonetheless a lively spot on weekends.

“Don’t bother with churches, government buildings or city squares,” Hemingway famously said. “If you want to know about a culture, spend a night in its bars.” It’s impossible to know whether Hemingway would appreciate Ernesto’s. Given enough wine, I’m sure he would, but there are enough good things at this locale to ensure that you certainly will.

Rings of sauteed calamari swim in chorizo tomato broth atop Parmesan polenta.

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dine

& drink

Check out the Kilgore's pick for a gin cocktail

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN; PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake I consider chardonnay to be the chicken breast among white wines, so I rarely order it at restaurants. Yet I found myself doing just that recently at Harry Caray’s restaurant in Chicago’s GLENN BARDGETT Midway airport, passing time Member of the Missouri Wine while I awaited my flight. The and Grape Board and wine wine selection was limited, director at Annie Gunn’s so I opted for America’s No. 1-selling chardonnay, Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, and paired it with an order of toasted ravioli. The cheese filling balanced the buttery wine, while the T-rav’s toasty, crispy outside perfectly matched this $12 chardonnay’s lightly oaky flavor.

July 2015

In 1806, the cocktail was defined in a Hudson, New York publication as a “bittered sling” composed of any spirit, sugar, water and bitters. We celebrate this American tradition with our adaptation of a basic TED AND JAMIE gin cocktail from the first KILGORE cocktail book, Jerry Thomas’ USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart Bar-Tenders Guide, written in and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House 1862. To a cocktail shaker, add 2 ounces gin, ¼ ounce simple syrup, ¼ ounce curaçao and 2 dashes Angostura bitters. Twist a strip of lemon peel over the shaker to express the oils. Add ice.

Shake well and strain into a chilled martini glass.

We’re in full-blown summer beer season, and the choices change daily as you look for brews to suit the warm weather. For an exceptional seasonal offering, grab Sierra Nevada Summerfest, a Czech CORY KING Pilsner that’s light pale with the Certified Cicerone, head right level of hop bitterness brewer at Perennial Artisan and minerality thanks to a Ales and founder of Side soft water profile that stays Project Brewing true to this beer style. A yearround pick perfect for hot weather is Lion Export Stout, a tropical stout brewed in Sri Lanka. Though dark in color and high in ABV, compared to other stouts, it has a trim body and fruity notes that make for easy drinking in the heat. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

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DRINK LIKE A

COCKTAILS

PATRIOT

BY J A M I E A N D T E D K I G O R E

What could be more patriotic than a cocktail? After all, the blending of ingredients in a tasty drink is a mini metaphor for the melting pot of our great nation. From sea to shining sea, American cocktails pay homage to our nation’s great states and cities. Celebrate Independence Day with a cocktail or two.

Consider it your patriotic duty.

ALASKA COCKTAIL This boozy treat warms bellies during cold Alaskan winters. Add 2 ounces gin, ¾ ounce Yellow Chartreuse, 2 dashes orange bitters and ice to a cocktail shaker. Stir, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

CHICAGO FIZZ This lush, full-bodied concoction will brace you for whatever the Windy City might send your way. Add 1 ounce aged rum, 1 ounce port, ¾ ounce lemon juice, ½ ounce simple syrup, 1 egg white and ice to a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously, then strain into a Collins glass filled with fresh ice. Top with club soda.

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

COLORADO BULLDOG The creamy topper in this drink echoes the beauty of Colorado’s snow-capped Rocky Mountains. Add 1 ounce vodka and 1 ounce coffee liqueur to a highball filled with ice. Top with equal parts cream and cola. Stir gently.

KENTUCKY COLONEL A reference to the title bestowed upon someone for his devotion to faith, family, fellowman and country, this lightly herbal drink has most assuredly earned its name.

Fill a large glass with ice. Twist a strip of lemon peel over the pitcher to express the oils, then drop the peel into the glass.

Add 2 ounces bourbon and ¾ ounce Benedictine. Stir until the drink is chilled, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Garnish with an additional lemon twist.

July 2015

MANHATTAN NYC’s iconic borough inspired a drink as intoxicating as the city itself. Add 2 ounces rye whiskey or bourbon, 1 ounce sweet vermouth, 2 dashes Angostura bitters and ice to a large glass. Stir, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry or a lemon twist.

MISSISSIPPI PUNCH The quantity of booze specified in the earliest written version of this recipe (1862) would leave you drowning in the Mississippi River. Here, the punch, with origins somewhere “along the Mississippi,” is pared down to a manageable single portion. Add 1 ounce cognac, ½ ounce

bourbon, ½ ounce dark rum, ¼ ounce lemon juice, 1 teaspoon superfine sugar and ice to a cocktail shaker. Shake, then strain into a Collins glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with an orange slice and raspberries.

MISSOURI MULE This drink was created for Missouri native President Harry S. Truman. The Mule here refers not to ginger beer, but to both Missouri’s official state animal and the Democratic political party. Add 1 ounce bourbon, 1 ounce applejack, ¾ ounce lemon juice, ½ ounce Campari, ½ ounce Cointreau and ice to a cocktail shaker. Shake, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

PALM BEACH SPECIAL Palm Beach’s official town motto is The Best of Everything, just the way this easyto-make, citrus-kissed drink tastes. Add 2½ ounces gin, ¾ ounce grapefruit juice, ½ ounce sweet vermouth and ice to a cocktail shaker. Shake, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

SAN FRANCISCO COCKTAIL This aperitif-style cocktail is as rich as a ’49er who just struck gold. Add 1 ounce sloe gin, 1 ounce dry vermouth, 1 ounce sweet vermouth, 1 dash Angostura bitters, 1 dash orange bitters and ice to a large glass. Stir, then strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

VEGETIZE IT

Chicken tikka masala

BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

F

enugreek is to Indian cuisine as basil is to Italian cuisine. This spice smells and tastes like a Bollywood wedding between celery and licorice. In fact, it’s so intensely fragrant and bittersweet that I have a hard time wrapping my Midwestern palate around any dish made with it. Since Indian restaurants offer far more vegetarian options than traditional American eateries, my dining prospects would improve exponentially if I appreciated this workhorse Indian spice. So I decided to cook through my fenugreek issues and vegetize a quintessential Indian dish: chicken tikka masala.

Hungry for more vegetarian dishes?

Go to samg.bz/ saucemeatless every Monday to check out our Meatless Monday column, where you’ll find recipes to prepare tasty vegetarian fare at home.

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Tikka is Hindi for “cutlet” or “pieces,” in this case, of hearty, roast chicken. I ran through my mental list of chicken substitutes: Nutritious beans are my meatless fallback because it’s so easy to toss a can into a salad, stew or your purse; yet they look like legumes, not tikka. For authenticity’s sake, I wanted the dish to contain something nugget-y. Enter eggplant. When roasted with the skin on, it holds its shape, the texture is less onerous to mush-sensitive tongues and roasting coaxes a lovely sweet flavor from this otherwise neutral-tasting veggie.

While the eggplant roasted, I started the tomato sauce, or curry. You might only know curry as a jar in your spice rack, but the same word also describes an Indian stew or gravy. Since I was already roasting the eggplant, I added a pan of Roma tomatoes to the hot oven. This set me up for one-step cooking ... and disappointment. The thick-skinned Romas withstood the high heat, but didn’t release enough liquid to make a curry. Big juicy beefsteak tomatoes did the opposite, dissolving into a tasteless puddle.

I consulted an expert, PJ Singh, owner of Taj Palace in Chesterfield, and realized I was trying too hard. Singh uses cans of whole tomatoes and their juices in his curry for chicken tikka masala. Canned tomatoes are packed with flavor, a perfect texture and a pantry staple that’s always there when you need it, like a happy Bollywood dance number. Singh adds a pinch of sugar to neutralize the acidity and finishes with cilantro, green onions and a generous helping of 40-percent whipping cream. I achieved the same smooth, velvety texture with a bit of coconut cream, the rich, thick yumminess that floats to the top of a can of coconut milk.

the spices already in your pantry. Singh uses cinnamon, cumin, coriander, ginger, garlic and chile powder to flavor his curry. I did the same, substituting a whole Serrano chile for the powder and adding cloves to round out the sweetness.

My vegan tikka masala was everything I wanted in a weeknight meal – easy, appetizing and healthy, but I had to admit, it didn’t taste wholly like Indian food. Imagine a plain sari with no ornamentation – my recipe was missing the opportunity to be boldly authentic. What it needed, of course, was fenugreek. That spice, with its tones of burnt maple syrup, no longer seemed overwhelming. Instead, it was the only seasoning that could take the recipe from expected to exciting.

This recipe is easily customized. Use eggplant, beans or yes, chicken, if that’s your preference. Love cumin? Double it.

Not ready to wrestle with a strong flavor like fenugreek? Start with a pinch and work your way up to its fullest flavor.

The only real mistake you can make is to not make this flavor-packed dish at all.

VEGAN EGGPLANT TIKKA MASALA 4 SERVINGS 1 small (1 lb.) eggplant, stem removed and cut into 1-inch cubes 4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 28-oz. can whole tomatoes 1 small yellow onion, diced 1 Tbsp. minced garlic 1 Tbsp. grated peeled ginger

1 Serrano chile pepper, seeds removed, minced ¼ cup tomato paste 1 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cumin ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon ¼ tsp. ground cloves ¼ tsp. ground fenugreek* 2 tsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¼ to ½ cup coconut cream, such as Trader’s Joe’s Coconut Cream** 2 cups prepared basmati rice ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro ¼ cup chopped green onion • Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

• Place the cubed eggplant in a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons oil and the salt and pepper. Toss to coat.

Spread the eggplant cubes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes, then toss the cubes and roast another 10 to 15 minutes, until the eggplant is golden and tender. Set aside.

• Pour the tomatoes and their juices into a large nonreactive bowl. Using your hands, squeeze the tomatoes to break them up. Set aside.

• Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Saute the onion until it begins to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic, ginger and Serrano pepper, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste, stirring to coat the onion

mixture. Add the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, cloves and fenugreek.

Stir often, until the tomato paste begins to brown, about 2 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, stirring to combine. Add the sugar and the eggplant and stir again. Reduce the heat to simmer. Cook until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice and ¼ cup coconut cream, and simmer 1 minute.

• Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more coconut cream if desired. Serve hot over the basmati rice. Garnish with the cilantro and green onion. * Available at Penzeys Spices, 7338 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.7177; 246 THF Boulevard, Chesterfield, 636.778.1129, penzeys.com ** Available at Trader Joe’s, 48 Brentwood Promenade Court, Brentwood, 314.963.0253, traderjoes.com

Indian curries are deeply flavorful, tasting smoky, sweet, fresh and rich, seemingly at the same time. It takes a blend of spices, called masala, to hit all of these notes. That’s why, if a recipe calls for garam masala and you’re out of it, you can whip up your own with

July 2015

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MAKE THIS BEEF KEBABS ACTIVE TIME: 5 MINUTES

This cookery love story is as old as time: Fire marries meat, and everyone MAKE THIS celebrates. To make beef kebabs, begin by soaking 6 bamboo skewers in water. Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal grill for medium-high, direct heat or heat a gas grill to medium-high. In a bowl, make a rub by combining ¼ cup ground coffee, ¼ cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder, 2 tablespoons chipotle chili powder, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 1 tablespoon cumin, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Cut a 2-pound tri-tip steak into 1½-inch cubes and liberally distribute the rub over the meat, coating all sides. Thread 3 to 4 cubes of meat on each skewer. Grill the kebabs 3 minutes per side.

Remove from heat and tent loosely with foil 15 minutes before serving. – Dee Ryan

If using grass-fed beef, check it after 2 minutes, since it is leaner and will cook faster than grain-fed beef.

PHOTO BY SHERRIE CASTELLANO

If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss her online column, Just Five.

Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.

July 2015

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PHOTO BY EMILY SUZANNE

HAPPY HOUR

From left, De La Louisiane, mint julep and gin fizz at Taste

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LIKE A BOSS

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH JOCHUM

Hand-rolled gnocchi at YaYa’s Euro Bistro

22 places to unwind after work B Y L I G AYA F I G U E R A S, C AT H E R I N E K L E N E , M E E R A N A G A R A J A N , M A G G I E P E A R S O N , K R I S T I N S C H U LT Z , S TA C Y S C H U LT Z A N D B E N W O O D July 2015

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HAPPY HOUR LIKE A BOSS 1.

Shrimp a la plancha at YaYa's Euro Bistro 2.

The pear, prosciutto and fontina pizza and local draft beer at Katie's Pizza & Pasta

for the cocktailian

for the hungry foodie

TASTE

YAYA’S EURO BISTRO

If you’re a bit like Professor Snape regarding the nuances of your cocktails (he taught potions, people) but don’t have gaelleons to spend on well-crafted drinks, steer yourself to Taste for happy hour. Taste discounts its entire selection of classic cocktails ($6) while taking them to new, labor-intensive heights. With cocktails listed chronologically, one can travel through time, starting with the mint julep in 1790 and eventually ending in the 1980s with the cosmo. Try the De La Louisiane, a bourbon Manhattan with Benedictine that relies on bitters and absinthe for some kick or a perfectly executed sloe gin fizz, frothy and light. Best of all, anyone behind the bar is happy to talk tasting notes and mixing techniques with an eager earlyevening drinker. – M.P.

Really good, varied food is rare at happy hour. At YaYa’s Euro Bistro, the experience is a prelude to dinner – the service is pleasantly attentive, and the menu is solid from smoked trout to beef carpaccio to mussels. Grab a well cocktail ($3) or glass of wine ($5) and turn your attention to the real deal is easy: Buy one app, get a second app of equal or lesser value for free. Try the hand-rolled gnocchi ($10), pillowy and comforting, served in a gorgonzola cream sauce with roasted chicken, sauteed spinach and spiced walnuts. Next, go for the shrimp a la plancha ($15). Seared shrimp arrive still sizzling on a cast-iron skillet with garlic, a glug of sherry and red chile butter. To top it off, your server will hit this steaming plate with a squeeze of fresh lemon tableside. Now that’s what we call a strong finish. – M.N.

Happy hour: Sun. and Mon. – 5 p.m. to 12:15 a.m., Tue. to Fri. – 5 to 7 p.m.

4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com

Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 6:30 p.m.; 15601 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, 636.537.9991, yayasstl.com

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for pizza and beer KATIE’S PIZZA & PASTA Pizza and beer were meant to be together, but you won’t find pounds of Provel and generic suds at Katie’s Pizza & Pasta. There are five kinds of 6-inch pizzas, including the pear, prosciutto and fontina, as well as the Margherita drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil ($6).

Pair your pie with a local draft, say a 4 Hands ($3), grab a friend and a seat on the sunny patio, and enjoy an elevated yet affordable version of a classic food and drink combo. – K.S.

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PHOTO BY ELIZABETH JOCHUM

Happy hour: Daily – 3 to 5 p.m. and 9 to 10 p.m.; 9568 Manchester Road, Rock Hill, 314.942.6555, katiespizzaandpasta.com

July 2015

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

2 July 2015

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HAPPY HOUR LIKE A BOSS

for a first date BASSO

3.

The open kitchen at Basso

for the wine enthusiast

4.

Clockwise from top, toasted pita, hummus, olive tapenade and Romesco at The Dark Room

THE DARK ROOM At this wine bar and photo gallery in Grand Center, you could shell out $195 for a bottle of a benchmark Napa cab, like 2010 Chateau Montelena.

Better yet, go during happy hour, when you can sip contentedly on a glass of select sommelier wines ($5). You might be in store for a 6-ounce pour of a white Bordeaux like the 2013 Chateau Buisson Redon or a Spanish rosé, such as Garnacha de Fuego Rosado. The wine menu, like the engaging exhibits on the wall, changes every two months, but we guarantee that you won’t be disappointed with the options on this list. Pair that vino with one of the discounted flatbreads ($6) or toasted pita with a dip ($3) of housemade hummus, olive tapenade or Romesco. If conversation lags, walk the room and let the photos speak to you. Currently on display is Chronicle Ferguson by photographer Santiago Bianco. – L.F. Happy hour: Tue. – 4 to 11 p.m., Wed. to Fri. – 4 to 6 p.m.

615 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.531.3416, thedarkroomstl.com

Pitcher perfect Good happy hours have reasonably priced booze, accessible staff, the real possibility of a place to sit and decent food. Great happy hours offer all of the aforementioned, plus pitchers of drinks so tasty, you want to dunk your head right in there.

Dive into these happy hour pitchers. – Maggie Pearson

Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen If Tortillaria doesn’t hook you with its storefront signage and bustling sidewalk patio, it will definitely get you with its pitcher of house margaritas ($18) – perfectly balanced with Sauza Blue, triple sec and house-made mix. Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 6 p.m., Sat. and Sun. – 3 to 5 p.m.

8 S. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.4443, tortillaria.net

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Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 7 p.m.

7036 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7820, basso-stl.com

for the beer lover THREE KINGS PUBLIC HOUSE In a happy-hour world of discounted domestics and longneck buckets, Three Kings Public House offers respite for the weary craft beer nerd. All draft beer is half price during happy hour. Sidle up to the bar and order from one of the 23 rotating drafts perfect for any beer lover’s palate.

You could go light and sessionable with something like an easy-drinking Schlafly Hefeweizen or double-down on a bad day with a heavy hitter

Diablito’s

The Wheelhouse

Felix’s Pizza

Diablito’s deals on pitchers redefine dirt cheap, and its all-day Saturday happy hour redefines awesome.

A 46-ounce pitcher of the house sangria ($15) holds a blend of red wine, brandies and fresh juices.

A pitcher of the classic house margarita ($15) has a strong lime lead with just enough devilishly good tequila to remind you to call a cab.

Happy hour: Sun. to Fri. – 4 to 7 p.m., Sat. – 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

3761 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.644.4430, diablitoscantina.com

The Wheelhouse’s excellent deals on cocktail pitchers ($15) at its Clayton location include The Wheelhouse Brew – a light, summery mix of Skyy vodka, lemonade and your choice of any of the 17 beers on draft (ours is Shock Top Lemon Shandy for a citrus kick). Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 3 to 7 p.m.; 15 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.726.7955, wheelhousestl.com/clayton

Felix’s Pizza in Dogtown is dishing up one of the best beerand-a-meal deals for happy hour: Buy a pitcher ($17 to $26), get any 12- or 18-inch pizza for half price. With 21 local and national craft brews on tap, there’s sure to be a pitcher to pair with one of Felix’s New York-style pizzas.

Happy hour: Tue. to Fri. – 4 to 6 p.m.; 6401 Clayton Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.6565, felixspizzapub.com

July 2015

BASSO PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN; PITA PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

3

First dates are rife with pressure. Give yourself and your wallet a break and meet face to face, like in ye olde days, at Basso for happy hour. Craft beers ($4), selected wines ($5), cocktails ($6) and small bites ($7 or less) are reason enough, but the forgiving lighting and hip atmosphere boosts everyone’s kissing potential. We can’t get enough of the truffle fries ($4) 4 and crispy meatballs ($7), both also easy to eat in front of a perfect stranger.

We found it difficult to resist the Peter Rabbit, a take on a Mexican mule that mixes Espolón reposado tequila, blood orange liqueur, carrot and lime juices, ginger beer and muddled basil. If all’s going well, you and your date could easily commit to a full, chef Rex Hale-designed meal that doesn’t break the bank. – M.P.

like a 9.5 percent Double Jack IPA from Firestone Walker. Dig into eight pub grub apps ($5) while you imbibe; we paired our brew with spicy chicken toasted ravioli, which adds a Sriracha kick to an STL classic. – C.K. Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 6 p.m.; 6307 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.721.3355; 11925 Manchester Road, Des Peres, 314.815.3455, threekingspub.com

for the broke and unemployed

PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

5 STAR BURGERS Get a lot for a little at 5 Star Burgers. You will leave feeling full and so will your wallet.

Take a seat anywhere and start with a glass of pinot noir; all four house wines ($3.50) are discounted during this window, and a pint of local craft on draft is half price ($2.50). Sliders ($1.50 – insert bugged-out emoji eyes here) are the food to order.

We recommend mixing it up with a trio of sliders: the veggie burger with roasted red pepper mayonnaise, the Little 5 Star and the fried chicken slider. And remember to order a basket of fried cheese curds ($2). These little cheese grenades add a burst of salty richness to go with your vino, and if you’re looking to upgrade your slider, pop one on for the perfect bite. Wine, three sliders and a side add up to ten bucks. Time to ask your bartender for another round – you can afford it. – M.N. Happy hour: Daily – 4 to 6 p.m.

8125 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.720.4350; 312 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.394.2250, 5starburgersstl.com July 2015

for the

all-day drinker

FRAZER’S RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Whoever said happy hour starts at 5 p.m. hasn’t been to Frazer’s on a weekday. This Benton Park spot has the kind of cozy charm and mustachioed irony that will make you want to ditch your day job and take up residency on one of its leather stools. The neighborhood watering hole has all the makings of a full-day affair with breaks on domestic bottles ($2.50), wells ($4) and vino ($6), and loafer-clad locals who will slap you on the back, order you a beer and convince you to “stay a while.” Behind the bar, hipster bartenders freeze martini glasses with liquid nitrogen, and on Wednesday, check out the vintage cocktail specials ($6). The best day to play hooky at this never-toocrowded hot spot? Thursday, when freshly shucked Blue Points ($1.50) and big-as-your-fist boiled shrimp ($1.50) are served up for hours of happiness. – S.S. Happy hour: Mon. – 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tue. – 3 to 7 p.m., Wed. to Fri. – 3 to 6 p.m.; 1811 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, 314.773.8646, frazersgoodeats.com

for the sushi lover CAFE MOCHI The half-price happy hour at Cafe Mochi might be one of the worstkept secrets in St. Louis. Sushi pilgrims flock to the pink neon sign outside this South Grand destination and wait anxiously, hoping to place their orders before the 6:30 p.m. deadline. All 15

5 non-specialty rolls are half price (less than $10), meaning you can dig into a classic California roll or a spicy octopus roll filled with tender bits of the cephalopod, kaiware (daikon radish sprouts), hot sesame oil and eel sauce, and even Futo Maki, filled with crab, shrimp, cucumber, sprouts, egg and roe. But the real sushi-phile steals are the 15 half-price nigiri options, succulent pieces of raw salmon, ruby-red tuna and more draped across a small mound of rice. Hot sake for two ($6) is available, but on hot summer nights, we unabashedly order specialty cocktails (two for $6) like

6 the lurid Tropical Melon, a fruity sugar bomb of melon liqueur, vodka and orange and lemon juices. No shame, people. – C.K. Happy hour: Tue. to Thu. – 4:30 to 6:30 p.m.; 3221 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.773.5000, Facebook: Cafe Mochi

5.

From top, specialty cocktails, spicy octopus roll and salmon nigiri at Cafe Mochi 6.

Cafe Mochi

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HAPPY HOUR LIKE A BOSS

8

for sunday funday BC’S KITCHEN

7.

The Potted Pig at The Block 8.

Fried calamari with chile-lime mayo and a mojito at BC's Kitchen 9.

Soy-braised pork cheeks at Mike Shannon's Steaks and Seafood

for the entire office

Happy hour: Sun. – 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Mon. and Tue. – 3 to 9 p.m., Wed. and Thu. – 3 to 6 p.m.; 11 Meadows Circle Drive, Lake Saint Louis, 636.542.9090, billcardwell.com

THE BLOCK

for the late-night drinker

Schmooze your way to the top at The Block’s happy hour at its Central West End location. Though the workingman’s nirvana is available in the bar, invite your coworkers for drinks on the picturesque back patio, a fenced urban oasis decorated with string lights and fresh herbs from The Block’s garden. House cocktails ($5) are boozy enough to take the edge off a long day without turning you into the topic of office gossip tomorrow.

Try the Mint-Basil Lemontini, an herbaceous combination of basil vodka, fresh mint, fresh lemon juice and prosecco that sings of summer. A happy hour menu of starters ($5) provides generous sustenance for sharing, like the Potted Pig, a jar of house-made pork confit served with ample slices of grilled country bread, plenty of sour house-made pickles and sweet apple-raisin chutney. Don’t want to share with Double-Dipping Steve from accounting? Order the ham and cheese panini ($5), perfectly griddled with bacon jam and spicy mustard, and enjoy an early dinner. – C.K. Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 5 to 7 p.m.

33 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.535.5100, theblockrestaurant.com

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SASHA’S ON SHAW Sasha’s inviting garden is full of people chatting away in the cool latenight air after a hard day’s work. Pita pizzas ($6), delicious and intense in their flavors, include toppings ranging from asparagus to olives. Every open bottle of wine is available by the glass, with pours discounted by 50 percent. With all these options at your disposal, try a few new wines with a friend. The crisp and balanced Vincent Mothe Chablis is especially enjoyable. Beer deals include discounts on cans of 4 Hands ($2.50). Inside, the great vibe continues with comfy couches, a bar, lovely tables, and a welcoming staff to make you feel at home. – B.W. Happy hour: Sun. – 9 p.m. to midnight, Mon. to Sat. – 9 p.m. to 1 a.m.

4069 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.7274, sashaswinebar.com July 2015

PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

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Happy hour occurs almost daily at BC’s Kitchen, but the best day to hit up restaurateur Bill Cardwell’s casual outpost in Lake Saint Louis is Sunday, when the deal lasts from open to close. Take a seat in the bar area or on the patio and have a glass of Vista Point chardonnay or merlot ($3.50). If wine isn’t your wish, order your go-to highball from BC’s talented bar team. Well drinks ($4.50) are not a bad deal, considering that Broker’s gin, Old Forester bourbon, El Dorado 3-year rum and Lismore Speyside single malt – solid products at value prices – are among the rail spirits available. BC’s has a lengthy list of happy hour-only noshes from snacks like house-made Saratoga chips ($5.50) to filling bites such as a trio of mini cheeseburgers served with fries ($6.75) or the standout: fried calamari with chile-lime mayo and cocktail sauce ($6.75). If you haven’t discovered BC’s yet, it’s time to make the trek; there are no excuses – you’ve got all day to get acquainted. – L.F.

happy hour alfresco

Summer sunsets paired with the warmest of breezes are best experienced with alfresco drinking – it’s the natural and well-reasoned response. While St. Louis has no shortage of bars, there are a few extra-special patios and gardens to drape yourself over a chair and soak in the sun.

– Maggie Pearson

Brennan’s Known for its knowledgeable staff and friendly clientele, this CWE sidewalk patio is ideal for people-watching and acquaintance-making.

Who knows? You could strike up a conversation with a famed jazz musician, a local expat or any number of visiting performers staying at The Chase Park Plaza.

Happy hour: Mon. to Thu. – 4:30 to 7 p.m.

4659 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.9444, cometobrennans.net

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for an international happy hour MANGO PERUVIAN CUISINE Crispy plantain chips and vibrant salsa verde land quickly on the table for a crunchy, satisfying start to this South American happy hour downtown. A generous glass of fruity and not-too-sweet sangria ($5) could tide you over, unless you opt for the equally economical pitcher ($15).

Select local craft beers are available on draft ($3). Mango’s food menu offers seven small plates ($5 each). Among them, try the meaty Anticuchos Trio, three packed skewers of your choice of chicken, beef or tender, rich beef heart.

Carb up with Bolas de Yuca, four deep-fried mashed yucca balls reminiscent of a hush puppy served with creamy, subtly spicy Huancaina dipping sauce. Better yet, make it a fiesta and order one of everything. – K.S.

Tick Tock Tavern

white with notes of cantaloupe. As for the food, think elevated dishes on a discount; most appetizers are half price. Try the Cajun shrimp ($8), five plump seared shrimp swimming in a spicy caper cream sauce – ask for bread so you won’t waste that sauce. The crème de la crème are the soy-braised pork cheeks ($5), insanely tender meat served atop a silky celery root purée and garnished with a crunchy, sweet and spicy salad of green apple and jalapenos. When the bill comes, refrain from doing a happy dance. Stay classy, St. Louis. – M.N. Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 3 to 6 p.m., except during St. Louis Cardinals home games; 620 Market St., St. Louis, 314.421.1540, shannonsteak.com

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

MIKE SHANNON’S STEAKS AND SEAFOOD Take a seat at the swanky bar or one of the nearby hightop tables, and prepare to eat like a king. All wines by the glass are half off ($3 to $10.50); sip on the 2013 July 2015 Seaglass Sauvignon Blanc ($4), an easy-drinking dry

Planter’s House Reminiscent of a French Quarter courtyard, the patio at Planter’s House is cozy and chic, all at the same time. Romantic and sophisticated with a nod to a bygone era, this Lafayette Square spot is a perfect setting to enjoy a finely crafted cocktail by arguably the best bartending team in town.

Happy hour: Tue. to Fri. – 4 to 6 p.m., Sun. – 4 to 11 p.m.; 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

Venice Café

Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 3 to 6 p.m. and 9 to 11 p.m.

1101 Lucas Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9993, mangoperu.com

for classy lushes

Another brainchild of Steven Smith, owner of The Royale, this kitschy, rustic tavern off Grand Avenue is where Stag drinkers gather around unvarnished, communal picnic tables on the patio. Come for the neighborhood vibe of Tower Grove East, stay for the impromptu games of Cards Against Humanity.

Happy hour: Mon. – 4 p.m. to 1:30 a.m., Tue. to Fri. – 4 to 7 p.m., Sat. – noon to 6 p.m.

3459 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, theticktock.com

If a drink is on your mind as the workday ends, you won’t want to miss this month’s segment of Sound Bites when the editors at Sauce discuss the top happy hours in town. Take notes on the steals and deals, then belly up to the bar and unwind on a dime.

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, July 17 at noon and 10 p.m.

A Benton Park institution, the Dali-esque patio at Venice Café comes to life after sundown when neon twinkling lights make every little nook magical. Take time to explore all the mosaics, levels, rooms and artistic collections outside, and we guarantee you’ll spy something new every time. Be forewarned: cash only.

Happy hour: Mon. to Fri. – 4 to 8 p.m.

1903 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, 314.772.5994, thevenicecafe.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

FRESH & HEALTHY EATS

Move over, milkshakes – healthy eating establishments have broken ground and blossomed in nearly every corner of St. Louis, along with urban gardens, farmers markets and sustainable food trucks celebrating fresh, local, nutritious eats. Meet the heavy hitters of the city’s community-oriented food system, where seeds are nurtured, chickens are hatched and patrons are enjoying food that’s tasty and guilt-free. – Jill Duncan

A chicken, noodle and vegetable bowl at The HotPot

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PHOTO BY DUSTIN BRYSON

where to explore next

Seedz Cafe

LULU'S PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN; TREE HOUSE PHOTOS BY DUSTIN BRYSON

Revel Kitchen Revel Kitchen, formerly Athlete Eats, retooled itself in May into an even more versatile concept with a food truck and plans for a second location. What began as a healthy meals delivery service geared toward athletes has beefed up into a protein-packed, gluten-free, nutrientrich fueling station for everyone. At its brickand-mortar location on Cherokee Street, you’ll enjoy everything from weekend brunch to the bibimbap bowl (that veers from the traditional Korean dish by swapping minced cauliflower for rice) to the bunless bulgogi burger made with grass-fed local beef served over housemade pickled kimchi and crowned with avocado and a fried egg. Among beverages, Revel brews its own kombucha, but if fermentation isn’t quite your cup of tea, try the sweet Dank Green Drank juice or cold-drip coffee.

Those in St. Louis County July 2015 will soon have cause to

Lulu’s Local Eatery

celebrate, too: Revel’s location next door to Mai Lee in Brentwood is slated to open in August.

2837 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.932.5566, eatrevelkitchen.com

PuraVegan Cafe & Yoga It’s not just vegan and gluten-free here: With yoga and meditation, cooking classes and cleanses, the staff has built a holistic model for a healthy lifestyle. Pick up a Beet Street juice or an anti-inflammatory smoothie for a quick boost on the fly or lounge over a glutenfree cornbread waffle, a customer (and staff) favorite. Even desserts are guilt-free, like the cocoa cookie made with almond meal and coconut sugar. PuraVegan has also partnered with The Food Pedaler, a local bike delivery business.

Raw juices and kale salad delivered to your door? The times they are a-changin’. 307 Belt Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.5144, puravegan.com

Clockwise from top left: Lulu's Local Eatery; Abbie Finley, server at Tree House Restaurant; Brussels sprouts salad at Tree House Restaurant

The HotPot Eating your vegetables finally is cool again.

Eleven veggies adorn the creative combination menu at this funky kid-friendly cafe. Choose one veg or all (the latter, an option called Rake It Through the Garden), plus a protein (chicken, spicy beef, shrimp, char siu pork or tofu) and a starch (noodles, rice or quinoa), then combine with any of

the eight tasty, housemade sauces to create a heaping bowl that’s sure to leave you satisfied.

While you digest your bowl of flavorful goodness, linger under the watchful statues of Buddha and daydream about HotPot’s weekend brunch of gluten-free biscuits and gravy and Paleo pancakes. Mom will be so proud. 11215 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.315.4421, eathotpot.com

Co-owners Cara Schloss and Monty Gralnick take a hands-on approach at their sunlit, all-organic, vegan cafe in the heart of Clayton’s DeMun neighborhood, greeting customers from behind the salvaged barnwood counter below the chalkboard menu featuring rotating daily specials. Whether you opt for the whole-wheat sprouted pizza or barbecue black-bean burger, you can’t really go wrong – even if you’re indulging with a treat from the Sweetz case containing delectable desserts like the rawcacao chocolate peanut butter cup. The bar pours sustainably produced organic wines and housemade organic Om Brew beer, but don’t miss out on the virgin Coco Mojito, made with coconut water, kale, mint and lime.

6344 S. Rosebury Ave., Clayton, 314.725.7333, seedzcafe.com

While the recipes tap simple, plant-based ingredients from local vendors and an onsite patio garden, Lulu’s fare is anything but rabbit food. Inside the Buffalo cauliflower Tree House wrap hide juicy, crisp Restaurant morsels of cauliflower The bliss you’ll feel at tossed with houseTree House might have made Buffalo sauce and something to do with vegan ranch dressing the heavenly rice flour that mingles with a crepes, a well-crafted heap of local greens, almond milk cocktail, a carrots, cucumbers and cashew, pecan or almond red onions. The sweet “cheese” platter or and tangy jackfruit simply the sharing of banh mi is marinated, good company in this grilled and served on cozy neighborhood nook. a French baguette Open for lunch, dinner – a must-try for any and brunch (and, later adventurous palate. this summer, breakfast), Local Confluence health-conscious foodies Kombucha is served can grub all day on cuisine on tap in flavors like ranging from vegan katsu golden beet and sweet cutlet sandwiches to a cinnamon ginseng. On Brussels sprouts salad to the go? Look for Lulu’s vegan ramen bowls, and food truck roaming the linger after their meal with streets and serving up a cup of pour-over coffee quick, wholesome meals from Blueprint, Goshen or to carry away.

Mississippi Mud. 3201 S. Grand Blvd., 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.300.8215, St. Louis, 314.696.2100, saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41 luluslocaleatery.com treehousestl.com

get

JUICED Put the squeeze to fruits and veggies, then drink in the nutrients. Handier than a basket of leafy greens, fresh-pressed juice offers nature’s bounty in a glass. Settle your health-kick fix with one of these nine beverages you can make at home or order at the cafe counter.

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

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RESPECT THE CARROT 3 medium carrots, 2 apples, 1 orange (peeled), 1-inch piece fresh ginger Local Harvest Grocery, localharvestgrocery.com

SWEET BEET 5 medium carrots, 2 medium red apples, 1 medium beet Green Earth Grocery, greenearthgrocer.com

GREEN 101 ½ cup frozen pineapple chunks, 1 stalk celery, 2½-inch piece

cucumber, 1 quarter green apple, 1 cup kale leaves (stems removed), ¾ cup coconut water, 1 teaspoon agave nectar, squeeze lemon juice Frida’s, eatatfridas.com

MINTY RUSH 1 medium cucumber, 1 Fuji apple, 3 handfuls spinach, 1 large handful mint, 6 stems parsley, ½ lemon (peeled), ½ orange (peeled), ¼-inch piece fresh ginger Seedz Cafe, seedzcafe.com

KALE-AIDA 3 cups chopped kale, 1 cup chopped pineapple, ½ cup chopped cucumber, 1½ cups coconut water, ¼ cup lemon juice, ¼ cup lime juice Revel Kitchen Food Truck, eatrevelkitchen.com

No juicer?

No problem.

Whip these up in your blender.

WATERMELON FRESCA 4 cups watermelon, 5 mint leaves, 4 tablespoons lime juice Seedz Cafe, seedzcafe.com

CUAPPLE 1 medium cucumber, 1 red apple Juicemasters Food Truck, juicemastersstl.com

July 2015

CHERYL’S DETOXIFIER 5 stalks celery, 1 medium cucumber, 1 medium beet, 8 kale leaves, 1 generous handful parsley, 1 generous handful cilantro, ½ medium lemon (peeled) Foundation Grounds, foundationgrounds.com

THE CARDIO 2 medium Gala apples, 1½ carrots, ¼-inch piece fresh ginger Nadoz Bakery Café, nadozcafe.com

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STUFF TO DO:

THIS MONTH

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

Soulard Bastille Days July 10 – 5 p.m., Howards in Soulard, 2732 S. 13th St., St. Louis; July 12 – 6 p.m., Franco, 1535 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, soulard.org Dress in your peasant best, bring your antimonarchy signs and celebrate Bastille Day. Friday’s Gathering of the Mob will meet at Howards and begin a parade march/ pub crawl to six other Soulard watering holes, ending in Pontiac Square Park for the (bloodless) beheading of the French king and queen. Sunday’s festivities feature the Bastille en Vogue fashion show, which will showcase whimsical period fashion, and plenty of fine French fare from Franco, including a savory tarte flambé, palmier with prosciutto, gougères and assorted petit fours.

Local Social July 10 – 6 to 9 p.m., participating locations, 314.454.0788, cwescene.com It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood – especially in the Central West End. Take in local flavor as restaurants and shops offer games, specials and refreshments every second Friday of the month through September. Past festivities have included drink specials and pork steak dinners at Kopperman’s Deli, summery discounted cocktails at Sub Zero Vodka Bar and free tea samples and cookies at MaryAnn’s Tea Room. Stroll down the streets and discover the fun and flavors in store this month.

Festival of the Flying Pig July 12 – noon to 6 p.m., Mathew’s Kitchen, 5625 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.351.1700, mathewskitchenstl.com Pigs will fly (allegedly) on the parking lot at Mathew’s Kitchen in

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St. Louis Hills. Chef-owner Mathew Unger will serve up eight varieties of his famous pig wings: pieces of braised pork shank flash-fried and doused in one of eight sauces, including original, sweet Thai chile, spicy garlic chile and teriyaki. Pulled pork sandwiches will also be available for purchase, and the 21-and-older crowd can cool down with Urban Chestnut beer. This family- and pet-friendly event will also feature games and prizes.

Cocktails & Conversation: Food as Community July 23 – 6 to 7:30 p.m., Laumeier Sculpture Park, 12580 Rott Road, Sunset Hills, 314.615.5278, laumeier.org Learn and sip at the July installment of Laumeier Sculpture Park’s educational series. Nutritionist-in-residence Marjorie Sawicki will lead an exploration into the transformative power of food and will discuss the sustainable food movement and its effects on the St. Louis community. Enjoy wine and Schlafly beer, then stroll the park and take in the art.

Grafton Winery Wine Pairing Dinner July 23 – 7:15 to 9 p.m., Grafton Winery, 300 W. Main St., Grafton, Illinois, 618.786.3001, thegraftonwinery.com A taste of the Mediterranean comes to the Mississippi River at this five-course wine dinner. Start with a caprese salad and Grafton’s cabernet sauvignon, then enjoy paella served with a pinot noir and complete your meal with kanafa, a gooey cheese pastry, served with pinot gris.

July 2015

Berries and BarBQ Wine Trail July 25 – 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; July 26 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Hermann, 800.932.8687, hermannwinetrail.com Summer berries meet barbecue when seven Hermann-area wineries serve up delicious grilled fare for wine and meat lovers alike. Adam Puchta Winery will pair a special Vignoles margarita with savory smoked carnitas, while Hermanhoff Winery will dish out grilled chicken wings doused in balsamic barbecue sauce and paired with its White Lady wine. Purchase your ticket online, then start the tour at any of the wineries, but don’t forget to pick up your souvenir wine glass at your first stop.

music and food trucks like Revel Kitchen, Taco Truck STL and and Wayno’s Mobile International Cuisine. Then grab your spot on Art Hill for the free film screening at 9 p.m. The series kicks off July 10 with the ’80s classic Back to the Future.

Clayton Restaurant Week July 13 to 19, participating restaurants, claytonrestaurantweek.com Expand your palate and try a new restaurant or return to an old favorite at the summer edition of Clayton Restaurant Week. Bocci Wine Bar, Jimmy’s on the Park, Oceano Bistro and 13 other restaurants will offer $25 threecourse menus for diners, who can tack on an extra donation to benefit Operation Food Search. Menus available online.

Field to Fork

sponsored events Food Truck Friday July 10 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com Nearly 20 food trucks plan to park it at Sauce Magazine’s Food Truck Friday, including Go Gyro Go, Sarah’s Cake Stop and Shell’s Coastal Cuisine. Grab local brews from Urban Chestnut and 4 Hands and stop by the Sauce tent to purchase Speed Passes, which enable holders to use expedited lines for ordering. Come early and bring lawn chairs, blankets, kids and dogs and enjoy the sounds of the Cree Rider Family Band.

Let Them Eat Art July 10 – 6 to 11 p.m., Downtown Maplewood, cityofmaplewood.com/LTEA Let them eat cake – and art – at Maplewood’s annual Bastille Day celebration. Take in a cakewalk with a parade of STL 250 anniversary cakes, then enjoy samples and grub for purchase from 30 area restaurants and shops, including Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions, Kakao, Boogaloo and Tiffany’s Original Diner. This family-friendly event features street performances, live music, face-painting and general frivolity for all.

Art Hill Film Series Fridays from July 10 to 31 – 6 p.m., Art Hill, 1 Fine Arts Drive, Forest Park, St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org/filmseries Enjoy dinner and a movie at the Art Hill Film Series presented by the Saint Louis Art Museum. The fun starts at 6 p.m. with July 2015

July 18 – 5 p.m., Bellecourt Manor, 225 E. A St., Belleville, 618.566.4451 x10, heartlandsconservancy.org/field-to-fork Celebrate the bounty of southwestern Illinois during a five-course meal at Field to Fork. Each course is crafted with locally sourced ingredients and prepared by five area chefs: Companion’s Josh Galliano, Robust’s Joseph Hemp, J. Fires’ Market Bistro’s Jennifer Kennedy, Cleveland-Heath’s Ben Rudis and The Pie Pantry’s Tim Faltus.

Register online.

Schlafly Farmers Market Wednesdays – 4 to 7 p.m., Schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 Southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337 x2, schlaflyfarmersmarket.com Not a morning person? Snag your farmers market produce and a brew to boot at the Schlafly Farmers Market Wednesday evenings. This month, vendors will sell everything from berries to beets.

Midtown Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 6655 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.913.6632, Facebook: Midtown Farmers Market Step into summer at Midtown Farmers Market. Pick up organic beef, mushrooms and more from Elixir Farms and purchase rainbow trout from Rockbridge Trout Ranch.

Tower Grove Farmers Market Saturdays – 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org Summer fruit is ripe for the picking at the Tower Grove Farmers Market. Among the 60 vendors, look for local fruit this month from Joe Ringhausen Orchards, Eilerman Brothers Farms and Ivan’s Fig Farm. Arrive early to join in a free yoga session before taking your pick of the produce. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45

Mengesha Yohannes When Mengesha Yohannes left his native Ethiopia at 18 to attend Saint Louis University, he couldn’t have guessed that in five years he’d go from customer to co-owner of Bar Italia. More than 30 years later, Yohannes remains a guiding light at his everevolving Italian restaurant that has become an anchor in the Central West End.

Tell me about Bar Italia’s early days.

It was an espresso place. Instantly, every Ethiopian person was there. It was desserts, espresso and a small selection of wine. Food took over slowly.

Why did the menu expand? We got a Sears four-burner electric stove and

a small convection oven. Tortellini and mussels were the first hot things.

things, but actually being there is a different thing.

Did you eat Italian food as a kid?

If you’re middle or upper class (in Ethiopia), Italian cuisine is part of what you grow up with. There are Italians who lived and worked there. To this day, you can get pasta with tomato sauce or tomato-meat sauce anywhere in Ethiopia.

Where have you traveled lately?

Washington, DC. We spent the entire afternoon at Jaleo. One of the things I tried there that we’re going to use the fryer for is fried baby artichokes.

Not battered, just seasoned and served with an olive tapenade.

How have you responded to changes at Bar Italia in its 32-year history?

There’s a core set of things that don’t change because they don’t need to change. There’s no reason to dispose of tortellini with cream sauce when it makes so many people happy. Other stuff periodically gets refreshed. The first 10 years, there wasn’t any big piece of meat of any kind. Now we’ve got Black Angus steaks, and we go through a lot of them. ... I’ve wanted a fryer for a long time, but there wasn’t room in the kitchen. Now, because of the Spare No Rib influence next door, the fryer is in. I always wanted the frites option with the steaks, fritto misto seafood. ... It will further broaden the appeal.

What has the restaurant business taught you? You have to be adjusting and reinventing all the time. You travel to other cities and see what’s going on. You visit the best places to see what their approach is. You can read about

Bar Italia Ristorante 13 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 46 I SAUCEbaritaliastl.com MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com 314.361.7010,

What excites you about Bar Italia right now? The wine list. Now that we have someone as focused and sharp as Brandon Kerne (Bar Italia beverage director), we went to a flavor and experience profile-based way of describing the wines. Wines by the glass are led by description like “Pinot grigio’s more colorful side.” The descriptions are playful, give a sense of what the wine is like and relate it to other things you might be familiar with. The wine itself is on the second line. It’s very unusual to have it done that way, but it’s more approachable.

What have you learned from working in the industry for so long? One of my great pleasures is bread and butter. Really great bread and really great butter is hard to find. The idea that something dead simple can be great escapes a lot of younger chefs because the focus is on making your mark and making things your own. It’s hard to do if you feel like you have to cover the whole world’s cuisines.

– Ligaya Figueras

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

WHAT I DO

Where was your first restaurant job?

At The Parkmoor. I did everything from dishwashing to bussing and waiting tables. I learned all about American food. ... Because of my Parkmoor experience, I have an affinity for down-home American things. They used to have a hot dog with various things and a strip of bacon on it called The Pedigree. Fried chicken was something that they took seriously.

The brisket they did on Sundays – there was a certain reverence there.

July 2015

July 2015

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Readers’ Choice 2015

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From left, Strange Donuts co-owners Corey Smale and Jason Bockman in a sea of sprinkles

READERS'

CHOICE S T. L O U I S ’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A R Y A U T H O R I T Y

Readers’ Choice 2015

SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

FREE, READERS’ CHOICE 2015

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Readers’ Choice 2015

Readers’ Choice 2015

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Readers’ Choice 2015

FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT

PEACEMAKER LOBSTER & CRAB CO. “What did I enjoy as a kid? What makes me happy now?” Kevin Nashan, chef-owner of Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. asked himself as he contemplated the restaurant, his second after running Sidney Street Cafe down the street to wild acclaim. “I always gravitated toward po’boys and a good lobster roll.” Your votes make it official: Peacemaker is St. Louis’ favorite new restaurant. Here, Nashan dishes his thoughts on the most popular, quintessentially coastal dishes at Peacemaker. – Spencer Pernikoff 1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com

BUFFALO CRAWFISH PO’BOY “Inspired by chef de cuisine John Messbarger’s dad and his love of hot wings”

SMOKED BRISKET PO’BOY “How do you put something on the menu for the non-fish lovers that is going to absolutely make everyone want it? This brisket does it.”

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

CLAM ROLL “It’s got the sweetness of a scallop, the brininess of an oyster - absolutely delicious.”

LYONNAISE SALAD “Crispy oysters, pickled mustard seeds, beautiful poached egg – it’s a delicious bite.”

Readers’ Choice 2015

BLUEBERRY PIE “It’s just ridiculous, it’s so good.

It’s like a Pappy’s rib: It makes me want to hug someone.” saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

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Readers’ Choice 2015

CHEF OF THE YEAR

GERARD CRAFT

FOUR MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

You know a meal is special when you can recall it in vivid detail years, even decades, later.

Epicures have traveled from far and near to visit Gerard Craft’s flagship restaurant, Niche, and have departed with memories of exquisitely plated, creative dishes. Craft’s own dining experiences likewise have left an indelible mark on his culinary mind. Here, this year’s Readers’ Choice Chef of the Year – and winner of the 2015 James Beard Foundation award for Best Chef: Midwest – shares the top meals of his life. – Ligaya Figueras

1. The French Laundry, Yountville, California, 2002 “That meal was mind-blowing on every level, especially because I had experienced a lot at that point but nothing unique. I’d been sleeping with The French Laundry Cookbook pretty much at that point. It was a big deal to see it all. The wine service was Bobby Stuckey (now co-owner of Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colorado) as a youngster. My dad still talks about the wine service to this day and how amazingly inspired it was. (We started) with five different soups, each one the essence of whatever that ingredient was. (I had) dishes that are now iconic, like the salmon cornet – the ice cream cone, the oysters and pearls … just mindblowing and fun. Grant Achatz was a sous chef. It was kind of like a dream team in that restaurant.”

Readers’ Choice 2015

2. Le Bamboche, Paris, France, 2000 “It was during the mad cow crisis. Lots of vegetables because nobody was cooking meat at that point. La Bamboche was a tiny little spot, maybe 20 seats. The chef was Claude Colliot. It was him in the kitchen with one other guy and his wife ran the front of the house. It was the first time I saw traditional rules broken.

There was a dish of glazed Loire Valley vegetables with fromage blanc ice cream, a savory ice cream. I was blown away. Now, everyone sees ice cream on dishes. Back then, no one had ice cream on dishes.

On the dessert side, he had a Napoleon with pastry cream on one layer, a kind of candied confit tomato on another layer and then basil simple syrup. Again, this notion of the rules had been broken: savory food being used in dessert. That meal alone shaped my career and the way I would look at food from then on.”

3. L’Arpège, Paris, France, 2000 “This place was – and still is – a three-star Michelin restaurant. My parents took me there and said, ‘Pay attention. This is your Harvard education.’ It was a spectacular meal, tons of vegetables. I don’t know if I was necessarily blown out of the water. It was just vegetables and light flavors and very good. What I did notice later on as I was cooking was: This green bean is not cooked right; this turnip’s texture could be much better. Every vegetable in that place was so perfectly cooked. When it comes to vegetables, that completely changed my life. I am so picky with our cooks about how they cook vegetables.

That stems from this restaurant.”

4. Trattoria del Conte, Orvieto, Italy, 2006 “Our very good friends, Margaret and Carlo Pfeiffer, took me to this place. It

was their favorite local restaurant to eat dinner. It’s pretty much a father and his daughters who run this place. They make really casual pastas, all fresh, handmade. One of my favorite dishes that I still love to make is a ricotta tortelloni with artichokes, lemon and olive oil – an incredibly simple dish, but perfect. The whole thing, the ragus they do, everything made me fall in love with Italian food. That wasn’t my first trip to Italy, but it was a transformative trip for me.”

Niche Food Group Brasserie by Niche, brasseriebyniche.com Niche, nichestlouis.com Pastaria, pastariastl.com Taste, tastebarstl.com

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opened without me having worked for him for a year at Farmstead.

The dining room at Cleveland-Heath, voted favorite restaurant

FAVORITE RESTAURANT

CLEVELAND-HEATH

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Jenny Cleveland and Ed Heath culled the inspiration for their 4-year-old Edwardsville restaurant from family recipes, restaurant road trips and tenures in other people’s kitchens. The result: an arsenal of cooking techniques, unexpected dish compositions and core dining philosophies that are the hallmarks of your favorite restaurant of the year.

– Ligaya Figueras

Th e p o rk c ho p Heath: The pork chop was the one I’d done at Henry’s Fork Lodge, a little seasonal fishing place in Island Park, Idaho. I knew in Idaho they were meatand-potato people, and I thought I could branch out with some bread pudding.

Readers’ Choice 2015

It went over really well. I think I did asparagus or green beans and the pork chop. The egg came later.

Cleveland: The egg is us because the only meal we ever cooked at home was breakfast. It was always leftovers and an egg on top. Everyone says the egg on top of things is done, but I don’t see how it will ever be done because it tastes so good.

T h e c h i c k en w i n gs Heath: We ate at Redd in Napa a lot.

Their chicken wings were the best we ever had … It was a Michelin-starred restaurant, and we would always sit at the bar and eat the stupid chicken wings.

It was like a dark soy-caramel glaze. We tried to figure out the sauce. We worked on it at our place for six months before we came up with our chicken wings.

T h e B LT Heath: We used to eat BLTs four days a week in Napa. There was a little grocery store a block and a half from our house.

Cleveland: We’d walk down and get two cups of coffee, two BLTs with pickles on them and bring them back.

Heath: Tom (Grant) at Martine (Cafe, Salt Lake City) used to take cherry tomatoes and cover them in garlic and

olive oil. At the end of the night, he’d throw them in the oven and leave them for 12 hours until he got back the next day. It was like tomato sauce in a bite. At our place, we were going to do it that way, but our volume got too high. We go through 10 cases of Roma tomatoes a week just to keep the BLT on the menu.

Ours are roasted; we can’t really call them oven-cured.

T h e p u lled p ork sandwich Heath: At Farmstead (St. Helena, California), we did ours on the smoker, which was our original intention (for Cleveland-Heath). But once again, volume hit, and we had to start braising. We have the pretzel bun because Companion came by to do our bread. We wanted our pickles to be different, so we did cider vinegar and coriander seed. And when you get all that together – the bite of the coriander seed with the blue cheese dressing – I will eat that sandwich every day.

Cleveland: I think the pickles are because that’s how my mom did them. That’s how I grew up eating pulled pork.

Heath: The blue cheese coleslaw – that was (Farmstead’s) Seamus Feeley. Seamus did the blue cheese coleslaw, so we borrowed it. I don’t think we could have

The shav ed r aw b eef and celery kung pao Cleveland: This January, we ate at Mission Chinese in New York. They had this celery dish on the menu that was just the simplest.

Heath: Celery, hazelnuts, soy sauce.

Cleveland: It looked like sauteed celery with hazelnuts, and it was so good. …

When we got back, for two days we did nothing but: “No, this is how it was,” “No, this is how it was.” … It was like this celery competition. We were trying to hit the flavor with that dish.

Heath: It’s strange, though. It’s not carpaccio because it’s not super thin. But if you cut it against the grain, it gets that nice chewy element … It was seriously like eating at a regular Chinese restaurant where you get big chunks of celery in a dish. But his was so beautiful and tall and gorgeous, and we’re like, this is the best celery stick I’ve ever eaten. … And what’s everyone saying right now? Celery’s the new thing. I can see that.

The v ib e Cleveland: Prune (New York City) was awesome.

Heath: It’s tiny and it’s not dirty, it’s – Cleveland: It’s worn. It’s like your favorite teddy bear. The food had a lot of heart.

The wait time Heath: What’s that ramen place we went?

Cleveland: Ippudo (New York City). The food was amazing. We waited an hour and something for that table. I walked away thinking that’s not a big deal. I would’ve waited longer to eat there. The wait is a sensitive thing for us. I feel so bad – on the weekends, our wait gets so long. So I really appreciated waiting. And I didn’t mind.

The pl ating Cleveland: Ad Hoc (Yountville, California) was family style. The plating was designed to look sort of unplanned, but it was incredibly precise. The thing that you walk away with from there is that casual and comfortable is not an accident.

It takes just as much work as fine dining.

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9

I N S I D E T H E S E RV E R ' S

STOMACH

Sure, you have your favorites. That’s why you voted these restaurants among St. Louis’ finest.

Ever wonder, though, what servers order for themselves? Here’s the insider intel on what to eat at the restaurants you can’t get enough of. – Compiled by Sara Graham

“I REALLY LIKE THE SEVEN-VEGGIE NOODLES WITH UDON NOODLES. THE FLAVORING IS PERFECT, AND THE NOODLES ARE THICK, HEARTY AND SATISFYING.”

“The Vietnamese-style roast duck is such a great preparation. We render off a lot of the fat so the skin is crispy. The spice is great, too.

We use a five-spice blend and include an amazing ginger-soy sauce on the side for dipping.”

– Jay Nguyen, Mai Lee

– Meghan Dodson, Oriental Spoon

“DURING THE WARMER WEATHER I TEND TO FAVOR BRASSERIE’S TROUT. IT IS PAN-SEARED WITH BROWN BUTTER AND CURED LEMON. IT’S BRIGHT, FRESH, SALTY AND SWEET.” – Cory Prahl, Brasserie by Niche

“The jackfruit banh mi is a must-have. Marinated jackfruit with fresh veggies and a tangy banh mi sauce makes for the perfect sandwich.”

– Mike Murano, Lulu’s Local Eatery

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“THE SARMA. OUR BALKANSTYLE CABBAGE ROLLS STUFFED WITH PERFECTLY SEASONED GROUND BEEF AND RICE SMOTHERED IN A MOUTHWATERING PAPRIKA SAUCE WILL MAKE YOU FEEL LIKE YOU HAVE YOUR VERY OWN BOSNIAN MAMA.” – Mersad Besic, Grbic Restaurant

“I LOVE THE LAMB CHOPS. I’M A HUGE LAMB EATER AND FIND THESE PERFECT – JUICY AND DELICIOUS.”

– Chris Eveland, Olympia Kebob House and Taverna

“The khao soi – a yellow curry soup with lo mein noodles, pickled mustard greens and whatever meat you like topped with crispy noodles. It is flavorful and filling, but not too heavy. And you can have it as spicy as you like it.”

– Morgan Hopkins, King & I Thai Restaurant

“THE HOUSE PLANK – A SELECTION OF OLD WORLD CHEESES, ARTISANAL CHARCUTERIE, PICKLED VEGGIES, TOASTED NUTS, IN-HOUSE TERRINES AND OTHER ACCOUTREMENTS SERVED ON A HEFTY ROUGH HEWN PIECE OF OAK. RUSTIC BUT REFINED.” – Adam McDaniel, The Scottish Arms

“THE CEVICHE MIXTO – A COMBINATION OF MARKETFRESH FISH, OCTOPUS, SHRIMP AND MUSSELS COLD-CURED WITH FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON AND LIME JUICES, CILANTRO, GARLIC AND AJI AMARILLO, A NATIVE PERUVIAN PEPPER. CEVICHE JUST SCREAMS SUMMERTIME.” – Kelsie Rae Boldt, Mango Peruvian Cuisine

“Baingan bharta is my favorite because it’s full of flavor and made in the traditional way. I love to eat it with garlic naan.”

– Pragnesh Sandhe, House of India

“I’m addicted to the gambas al ajillo, sauteed shrimp in garlic oil with chiles and red pepper flakes. When the shrimp are gone, dip the bread in the amazing garlic oil.”

– Dana Stiebel, Modesto Tapas

“My perfect meal is a self-created combo: one Guadalajara flashfried seasoned ground beef taco, one El Mireko flash-fried ranchero chicken burrito smothered in queso, and one poblano pepper stuffed with seasoned ground beef and rice, and topped with salsa guajillo and white cheese.”

– Marcie Corwin, Chava’s Mexican Restaurant Readers’ Choice 2015

Readers’ Choice 2015

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Readers’ Choice 2015

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your favorite places to eat

Favorite Restaurant CLEVELAND-HEATH 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com 2nd: Pastaria

3rd: Mai Lee Honorable Mention: Sidney Street Cafe Chef of the Year GERARD CRAFT, NICHE FOOD GROUP 2nd: Ed Heath, Cleveland-Heath 3rd: Kevin Nashan, Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. and Sidney Street Cafe Honorable Mention: Nate Hereford, Niche Favorite Wait Staff CLEVELAND-HEATH 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com 2nd: Sidney Street Cafe 3rd: The Libertine Honorable Mention: Taste

Favorite Barbecue PAPPY’S SMOKEHOUSE 3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com 2nd: Sugarfire Smoke House 3rd: Bogart’s Smokehouse Honorable Mention: Salt & Smoke Favorite Brunch BRASSERIE 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com 2nd: Rooster 3rd: Half & Half Honorable Mention: Café Osage Favorite Burger 5 STAR BURGERS 8125 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.720.4350; 312 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.394,2250, 5starburgersstl.com 2nd: O’Connell’s Pub 3rd: Blueberry Hill Honorable Mention: The Dam

The Maplewood from Pi Pizzeria, your favorite place to get pizza

Favorite Cheap Eats FAST EDDIE’S BONAIR 1530 E. Fourth St., Alton, 618.462.5532, fasteddiesbonair.com 2nd: Lona’s Lil Eats 3rd: Fuzzy’s Taco Shop Honorable Mention: Seoul Taco Favorite Cupcakes THE CUP Various locations, cravethecup.com 2nd: Jilly’s Cupcake Bar 3rd: Sweet Art Honorable Mention: The Sweet Divine Favorite Deli/Sandwiches BLUES CITY DELI 2438 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com 2nd: Mom’s Deli and Nora’s (tie) 3rd: Pickles Deli Honorable Mention: Gioia’s Deli Favorite Desserts CYRANO’S CAFE 603 E. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3232, cyranos.com 2nd: Brevan’s Patisserie 3rd: Baileys’ Chocolate Bar Honorable Mention: The Fountain on Locust Favorite Food Truck SEOUL TACO 314.863.1148, seoultaco.com 2nd: Guerrilla Street Food 3rd: Cha Cha Chow Honorable Mention: Lulu’s Local Eatery Favorite Frozen Desserts TED DREWES FROZEN CUSTARD 6726 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.481.2652; 4224 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.7376, teddrewes.com

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2nd: Ices Plain & Fancy 3rd: Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream Honorable Mention: Bobby’s Frozen Custard Favorite Late-Night Eats COURTESY DINER Various locations, courtesydiner.com 2nd: Uncle Bill’s Pancake & Dinner House 3rd: Mission Taco Joint Honorable Mention: City Diner Favorite Pizza PI PIZZERIA Various locations, 314.367.4300, pi-pizza.com 2nd: Peel Wood Fired Pizza 3rd: Dewey’s Pizza and Pastaria (tie) Honorable Mention: The Good Pie Favorite Patio JOHN D. MCGURK’S IRISH PUB & GARDEN 1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com 2nd: Vin de Set 3rd: Cielo Honorable Mention: Billy G’s and Molly’s in Soulard (tie) Favorite Restaurant to Impress Out-of-Towners NICHE 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com 2nd: Broadway Oyster Bar and Pappy’s Smokehouse (tie) 3rd: Blueberry Hill Honorable Mention: Tony’s Restaurant Favorite Seafood BROADWAY OYSTER BAR 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com 2nd: Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. 3rd: Farmhaus and Oceano Bistro (tie) Honorable Mention: Bristol Seafood Grill

Readers’ Choice 2015

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Favorite New Restaurant PEACEMAKER LOBSTER & CRAB CO. 1831 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.772.8858, peacemakerstl.com 2nd: Lona’s Lil Eats 3rd: Grapeseed Honorable Mention: Público and Three Flags Tavern (tie)

Favorite American Nouveau NICHE 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com 2nd: Farmhaus 3rd: Sidney Street Cafe Honorable Mention: The Libertine Favorite American Traditional CLEVELAND-HEATH 106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com 2nd: Annie Gunn’s 3rd: Quincy Street Bistro Honorable Mention: Big Bear Grill and The Restaurant at The Cheshire (tie) Favorite Cajun/Creole BROADWAY OYSTER BAR 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com 2nd: Riverbend 3rd: Evangeline’s Honorable Mention: The Kitchen Sink Favorite Chinese LU LU SEAFOOD & DIM SUM 8224 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.3108, luluseafoodrestaurant.com 2nd: Wang Gang Asian Eats 3rd: Yen Ching Honorable Mention: Mandarin House Favorite Eastern European/ Bosnian GRBIC RESTAURANT & BANQUET HALL 4071 Keokuk St., St. Louis, 314.772.3100, grbicrestaurant.com 2nd: Aya Sofia and Berix Coffee Restaurant (tie) 3rd: Bosna Gold Honorable Mention: Taft Street Restaurant & Bar Favorite English/Irish/Scottish THE SCOTTISH ARMS 8 S. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.535.0551, thescottisharms.com 2nd: John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub & Garden 3rd: Llywelyn’s Pub Honorable Mention: Dressel’s Public House

Readers’ Choice 2015

Favorite French BRASSERIE 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com 2nd: Franco 3rd: Vin de Set Honorable Mention: Bar Les Freres Favorite German SCHNEITHORST’S RESTAURANT & BAR 1600 S. Lindbergh Blvd., St. Louis, 314.993.4100, schneithorst.com 2nd: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3rd: Dreamland Palace Honorable Mention: Feasting Fox Favorite Greek OLYMPIA KEBOB HOUSE & TAVERNA 1543 McCausland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.781.1299, olympiakebobandtaverna.com 2nd: Momos 3rd: Michael’s and Spiro’s Restaurant (tie) Honorable Mention: Ari’s Favorite Indian HOUSE OF INDIA 8501 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.567.6850, hoistl.com 2nd: Rasoi 3rd: Taj Palace Cuisine of India Honorable Mention: India Palace Favorite Italian PASTARIA 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com 2nd: Trattoria Marcella 3rd: Zia’s Honorable Mention: Cunetto House of Pasta

2nd: Seoul Taco 3rd: Seoul Garden Korean Restaurant Honorable Mention: Kim Cheese Favorite Mexican CHAVA’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 925 Geyer Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.5503, chavasmexican.com and Mi Ranchito, 887 Kingsland Ave., University City, 314.863.1880, mi-ranchito-stl.com (tie) 2nd: Mission Taco Joint 3rd: Pueblo Solis Honorable Mention: Tortillaria Mexican Kitchen Favorite Middle Eastern RANOUSH 6501 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.6874, ranoush.com 2nd: Café Natasha’s 3rd: The Vine Café Honorable Mention: Aya Sofia

Favorite Spanish MODESTO 5257 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8272, modestotapas.com 2nd: Barcelona Tapas Restaurant 3rd: Guido’s Pizzeria & Tapas Honorable Mention: Público Favorite Steak CITIZEN KANE’S 133 W. Clinton Place, Kirkwood, 314.965.9005, citizenkanes.com 2nd: Tucker’s Place 3rd: Annie Gunn’s Honorable Mention: 1818 Chophouse Favorite Thai KING & I RESTAURANT 3155 S. Grand Ave., St. Louis, 314.771.1777, kingandistl.com 2nd: Fork & Stix 3rd: Sen Thai Asian Bistro Honorable Mention: Pearl Café

Favorite Vegetarian/Vegan LULU’S LOCAL EATERY 3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.300.8215, luluslocaleatery. com 2nd: Tree House 3rd: Small Batch Honorable Mention: Frida’s Favorite Vietnamese MAI LEE 8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com 2nd: Pho Grand 3rd: Banh Mi So Honorable Mention: LemonGrass

Favorite Soul Food/Southern SWEETIE PIE’S 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.371.0304, sweetiepieskitchen.com 2nd: Juniper 3rd: Old Standard Honorable Mention: Mama Josephine’s Favorite South American/PanLatin MANGO PERUVIAN CUISINE 1101 Lucas Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9993, mangoperu.com 2nd: Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine 3rd: Yemanja Brasil Restaurante Honorable Mention: Maya Cafe

Favorite Japanese WASABI SUSHI BAR Various locations, wasabisushibars.com 2nd: Tani Sushi Bistro 3rd: Baiku Sushi Lounge Honorable Mention: Nobu’s Favorite Korean ORIENTAL SPOON 229 Harvard Drive, Edwardsville, 618.655.9633, orientalspoon.net

BLT salad from Pi Pizzeria

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Readers’ Choice 2015

BARTENDER OF THE YEAR

TED KILGORE Whether it’s serving up seasonal cocktails, perfecting the classics or putting new twists on old favorites, this year’s top bartenders won you over with their creativity and craftsmanship. Here’s what they want to mix most when you see them behind the stick this summer. – Kristin Schultz

Bartender of the Year: Ted Kilgore, Planter’s House The Drink Gin Soaked Boy What’s in it Citadelle gin, Ransom Old Tom gin, Nolet’s gin, sloe gin, fino sherry, cinnamon syrup and lemon juice Why it’s great “It’s super refreshing, beautiful and quite boozy. Our bartender Mandi Kowalski actually came up with it, and I love the whole package. The name is also the name of a Tom Waits song, and I love Tom Waits. It also includes my favorite gins and looks phenomenal when you’re drinking it. It’s aromatic, beautiful and nostalgic.”

2nd: Kyle Mathis, Taste The Drink Walla Walla Bing Bang What’s in it El Dorado spiced rum, North Shore Mighty gin, Smith & Cross Jamaica rum, passion fruit, cinnamon syrup, grapefruit and lime juices Why it’s great “It’s sweet and fruit-forward from passion fruit and house-made cinnamon syrup. I loved the challenge of putting gin and rum together – the botanical nature of gin and sweetness of rum are polar opposites.”

3rd: Bess Kretsinger, Olio The Drink Ramos Gin Fizz What’s in it Boodles gin, fresh squeezed lemon and lime juices, orange blossom water, egg whites, cream and sugar Why it’s great “This drink is in honor of Tennessee Williams. He was fond of the (Ramos) Gin Fizz. It’s not a super esoteric drink, but it’s based on his roots. It’s a simple but obscure cocktail.”

PHOTO BY EMILY SUZANNE

Honorable Mention: Seth Wahlman, Eclipse Restaurant

From left, Kyle Mathis, Seth Wahlman and Bess Kretsinger with Bartender of the Year Ted Kilgore

Readers’ Choice 2015

Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

The Drink Year Old Manhattan What’s in it Rittenhouse rye, Cocchi vermouth di Torino, Pierre Ferrand Dry curaçao and Angostura bitters Why it’s great “I started this project about four years ago. I batch a full glass bottle of Manhattans and rest them in our storage cellar for at least a year. The cocktail begins to take on sherry- and Madeira-like qualities. … I’m always surprised by flavors I hadn’t picked up in previous tastings.” saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

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Readers’ Choice 2015

BEST PATIO SEAT

JOHN D. MCGURK’S IRISH PUB AND GARDEN

FAVORITE BEER LIST

INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE

PATIO PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

This Soulard staple has an outdoor patio with room enough for multiple Irish family reunions (yep, it’s a big ’un). Featuring a mix of canopied bar seating and more intimate tables surrounded by a lush romantic garden, the Old World-inspired courtyard can get raucous in the summer, yet there are plenty of nooks and crannies to steal a quiet moment. We suggest parking yourself out back around the tinkling fountain under the dappled shade of trees as you start Leopold Bloom-ing your way through the selection of Irish and craft beer and pub-style nibbles that will take you straight to the Emerald Isle.

– Maggie Pearson

John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden 1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

Readers’ Choice 2015

A bar that serves more than 500 beers can be overwhelming, but that doesn’t stop St. Louis beer lovers. You voted International Tap House’s beer list tops in town.

Still deciding on your next glass of suds? Here, the 10 best brews at iTap right now. – Kristen Chalfant

hoppiness of a traditional IPA and the drinkability of a light lager, this is it.

Jam-packed with flavor but weighing in at only 4.9 percent, you can enjoy this beer all day long.

4. Bell’s Two Hearted Ale Centennial hops are the superstar of this well-balanced, easily accessible IPA.

light enough to be consumed glass after glass.

8. Leaky Roof High Dry & Dusty A great alternative to beer, this sessionable mead is light, crisp and palate-cleansing.

1. New Belgium La Folie After one to three years aging in wood foeders (large, oak barrels), this highly sought after sour brown ale at iTap’s Soulard location provides mouthpuckering notes of green apple and a thirst-quenching, satisfying experience.

5. Petrus Oud Bruin Red as wine, sour-sweet and earthy on the nose, this Oud Bruin is a winning specimen of the complex, dark brown Flemish style.

2. Boulevard The Calling IPA One of Boulevard’s newest IPAs, The Calling is heavily hopped, bursting with tropical flavors and punches heavy at 8.5 percent.

6. Urban Chestnut Ku’damm At only 4.2 percent, the flavors of citrus shine brightly in this refreshing, locally brewed Berliner Weisse.

10. Root Sellers’ Row Hard Root Beer Bring on the vanilla ice cream with this perfectly brewed hard root beer.

At 6.7 percent, this would make a dangerously delicious float.

3. Oskar Blues Pinner Throwback IPA If you’re looking for a beer with the

7. 2nd Shift Katy One of the most satisfying American Brett saisons on the market, Katy is

International Tap House Various locations, internationaltaphouse.com

9. Chimay Red Cap (Première) Flavors of apricot abound in this delightfully refreshing, monk-made Belgian dubbel, the recipe for which dates to 1862.

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Readers’ Choice 2015

your favorite places to drink Bartender of the Year Ted Kilgore, Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com 2nd: Kyle Mathis, Taste 3rd: Bess Kretsinger, Olio Honorable Mention: Seth Wahlman, Eclipse Favorite Bar Taste 4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com 2nd: Planter’s House 3rd: The Royale and Three Sixty (tie) Honorable Mention: The Fortune Teller Bar

Favorite Beer List International Tap House Various locations, internationaltaphouse.com 2nd: Global Brew Tap House & Lounge 3rd: 21st Street Brewers Bar Honorable Mention: Bridge Favorite Brewery Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. 3229 Washington Ave., St. Louis; 4465 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.222.0143, urbanchestnut.com 2nd: Schlafly 3rd: 4 Hands Brewing Co. Honorable Mention: The Civil Life Brewing Co. Favorite Cocktails Planter’s House 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com 2nd: Taste 3rd: Sanctuaria Honorable Mention: Blood & Sand

Favorite Coffee Shop Kaldi’s Coffee Various locations, kaldiscoffee.com 2nd: Sump Coffee 3rd: Foundation Grounds and The Mud House (tie) Honorable Mention: Comet Coffee Favorite Happy Hour 5 Star Burgers 8125 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.720.4350; 312 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, 314.394,2250, 5starburgersstl.com 2nd: Flamingo Bowl and Bar 3rd: Molly’s in Soulard Honorable Mention: Café Mochi Favorite Sports Bar The Post Sports Bar & Grill 7372 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.645.1109; 763 Old Ballas Road, Creve Coeur, 314.736.1205, thepostsportsbar.com 2nd: Mike Shannon’s Steaks and Seafood

3rd: Lester’s Honorable Mention: The Wheelhouse Favorite Wine Bar Robust Various locations, robustwinebar.com 2nd: Sasha’s on Shaw 3rd: Ernesto’s Wine Bar and Olio (tie) Honorable Mention: 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar Favorite Winery Chaumette Vineyards and Winery 24345 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, 573.747.1000, chaumette.com 2nd: Chandler Hill Vineyards 3rd: Montelle Winery Honorable Mention: Noboleis Vineyards

PHOTO BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

Beers from your favorite brewery, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

Readers’ Choice 2015

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Readers’ Choice 2015

Readers’ Choice 2015

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FAVORITE FROZEN DESSERTS

TED DREWES FROZEN CUSTARD A trip to Ted Drewes is a St. Louis tradition. Your favorite place for frozen desserts has been inverting bright yellow cups filled with thick, rich custard before handing them over to your greedy little fingers for decades. Single-topping concretes – Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, anyone? – are tried-and-true, and when you want to pile on the calories, Ted’s custard crew comes through with specialties like Hawaiian (pineapple, banana, coconut and macadamia nuts) and Cardinal Sin (cherries and hot fudge). With dozens of toppings and add-ons, the mixing and matching possibilities are endless. Here, six of our favorite concrete creations from this town’s beloved custard stand.

Coconut, chocolate chips and almonds Michelle Volansky, production designer

Heath Bar, banana and hot fudge Allyson Mace, publisher

Oreos and cookie dough Meera Nagarajan, art director

Pretzels and chocolate chips Catherine Klene, managing editor, digital

Hot fudge and raspberries Rebecca Biundo, intern

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard | 6726 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.481.2652; 4224 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.7376, teddrewes.com 24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

Banana, marshmallow and hot fudge Angie Rosenberg, account executive

Readers’ Choice 2015

Readers’ Choice 2015

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your favorite places to shop Favorite Bread Bakery Companion Various locations, companionstl.com 2nd: Saint Louis Bread Co. 3rd: Great Harvest and Red Fox Baking (tie) Honorable Mention: 222 Artisan Bakery Favorite Butcher Shop Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions 2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com 2nd: Kenrick’s Meats & Catering 3rd: Edwardsville Frozen Foods Honorable Mention: Baumann’s Fine Meats Favorite Cakes/Pastries Brevan’s Patisserie 1009 Century Drive, Edwardsville, 618.307.5772, brevanspatisserie.com 2nd: Pint Size Bakery & Coffee 3rd: La Patisserie Chouquette Honorable Mention: Piccione Pastry

Favorite Candy Shop Crown Candy Kitchen 1401 St. Louis Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.com 2nd: Kakao Chocolate 3rd: Rocket Fizz Honorable Mention: Miss M’s Candy

Favorite Coffee Roaster Kaldi’s Coffee 700 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.727.9955, kaldiscoffee.com 2nd: Sump Coffee 3rd: Chauvin Coffee and Goshen Coffee Co. (tie) Honorable Mention: Blueprint Coffee Favorite Cooking Classes Dierbergs Various locations, dierbergs.com/ school 2nd: Kitchen Conservatory 3rd: Schnucks Honorable Mention: L’Ecole Culinaire Favorite Doughnut Shop Strange Donuts 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.tumblr. com 2nd: World’s Fair Donuts 3rd: Vincent Van Doughnut Honorable Mention: Donut Drive-In

Favorite Farmers Market Historic Soulard Farmers Market 730 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.622.4180, soulardmarket.com 2nd: Tower Grove Farmers Market 3rd: The Land of Goshen Community Market Honorable Mention: Kirkwood Farmers Market Favorite Grocery Store Dierbergs Various locations, dierbergs.com 2nd: Trader Joe’s 3rd: Straub’s and Whole Foods Market (tie) Honorable Mention: Local Harvest Grocery Favorite Kitchenware Store Sur La Table 295 Plaza Frontenac, St. Louis, 314.993.0566, surlatable.com 2nd: Chef’s Shoppe 3rd: Kitchen Conservatory Honorable Mention: Cornucopia

Favorite Liquor Shop Randall’s Wines and Spirits Various locations, shoprandalls.com 2nd: The Wine and Cheese Place 3rd: Friar Tuck Honorable Mention: Lukas Wine and Spirits Favorite Specialty Food Shop Larder & Cupboard 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com 2nd: Extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation 3rd: Global Foods Market Honorable Mention: Green Earth Grocery Favorite Wine Shop The Wine and Cheese Place Various locations, wineandcheeseplace.com 2nd: Bin 51 and The Wine Merchant (tie) 3rd: Parker’s Table Honorable Mention: Starrs

Banner Road Baking Co. Kickstart Granola and other pantry perks from Larder & Cupboard, voted favorite specialty food shop

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

Favorite Caterer Hollyberry 10037 Manchester Road, Warson Woods, 314.835.9977, hollyberrycatering.com 2nd: Butler’s Pantry 3rd: Catering St. Louis Honorable Mention: Hanneke’s Westwood Catering

Favorite Chocolate Shop Kakao Chocolate Various locations, kakaochocolate.com 2nd: Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier 3rd: Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co. Honorable Mention: Rick Jordan Chocolatier

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Readers’ Choice 2015

Readers’ Choice 2015

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Readers’ Choice 2015

Readers’ Choice 2015

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