Sauce Magazine // February 2019

C HE F ' S C H OIC E

NIPPON TEI'S NICK BOGNAR

I S C H A N G I N G W H A T S T. L O U I S

E XPEC T S FROM SUSHI

February 2019

SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 S T. L O U I S ’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A R Y A U T H O R I T Y // S A U C E M A G A Z I N E .C O M // F R E saucemagazine.com E , F E B R U A R Y 2I 019

FEBRUARY 2019 • VOLUME 19, ISSUE 2 What’s your favorite chocolate fix?

PUBLISHER ART DIRECTOR MANAGING EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITERS EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITORS PROOFREADER SENIOR DESIGNER ASSOCIATE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Brasserie’s chocolate mousse, and I don’t share.

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES EVENTS COORDINATOR LISTINGS EDITOR A chocolate lava INTERNS cake from literally

Union Loafer’s

Allyson Mace chocolate chip cookie Meera Nagarajan Heather Hughes Catherine Klene Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene Megan Gilmore I really like Nathaniel Michelle Volansky Reid’s chocolate bars.

Lauren Healey Ashley Gieseking, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Lauren Healey, Katie Herrera, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell Allyson Mace Matt Bartosz, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde James Boeckmann, Taylor Coutain

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St. Louis, MO 63103 February 2019

contents

mantu at barg, p. 11

FEBRUARY 2019

editors' picks 5

E AT THIS Meatballs and polenta at Trattoria Marcella

by meera nagarajan

last course 38

STUFF TO DO by james boeckmann and taylor coutain 40

WHAT I D O 6

12 REASONS TO TRY Peppe’s Apt. 2

by meera nagarajan 8

HIT LIST 4 places to try this month

Matthew Piva

by catherine klene 42

LANDMARK Goody Goody Diner

by adam rothbarth

by heather hughes and adam rothbarth

features

reviews

20

11

N E W AN D N OTABLE Barg Continental Restaurant

by michael renner 14

LUNCH RUSH Jerk Soul

by matt berkley

CHEF'S CHOICE Nick Bognar is changing what St. Louis expects from sushi

by matt sorrell 29

GO BIG WITH SMALLBATCH CHOCOLATES by adam rothbarth 32

dine & drink

GARLIC – IT’S WHAT’S FOR DINNER by kellie hynes

17

A SE AT AT TH E BA R

PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

by glenn bardgett, katie herrera, and ted and jamie kilgore 18

ELIXIR Brewing for a cause

Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when we talk with local chocolate-makers about their craft. And join us at the beginning of the month when we discuss the must-try new restaurants on the February Hit List.

COVER DETAILS Nippon Tei Nick Bognar crafts sushi at the Nippon Tei counter in Ballwin.

Learn more on p. 20.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

by adam rothbarth February 2019

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editors' picks

EAT THIS The off-menu MEATBALLS AND POLENTA at TRATTORIA MARCELLA are a poorly kept secret. A blend of chuck and pork flecked with fresh herbs, the meatballs are soused in a San Marzano tomato sauce and spooned over PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

decadent polenta made with plenty of cream, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a little butter for good measure. It’s the kind of comfort food that tastes as good in real life as it does in your memory.

TRATTORIA MARCELLA, 3600 WATSON ROAD, ST. LOUIS, 314.352.7706, TRATTORIAMARCELLA.COM

February 2019

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1

The halibut with truffled breadcrumbs and lemon-white wine sauce is delicate and delicious.

2

6

The lighting is low – very low – golden and glowing.

7

The over-the-top crystalencrusted decor.

The cannoli – four fresh, tiny shells piped with ricotta cream – are the ideal shareable dessert after you’ve had too much.

3

The fettuccine Alfredo is the stuff of your childhood Pasta House dreams. Accept the table-side sprinkling of Parmesan. It doesn’t need it, but you might.

4

Classic, affordable Italian wines by the bottle like tried-and-true sangioveses and Chiantis.

5

peppe profeta, owner, peppe’s apt. 2, 800 s. geyer road, kirkwood, 314.909.1375, peppesapt2.com

12 REASONS TO GO TO

PEPPE'S A P T. 2

9

The sesame bread is soft, free and the perfect way to start your meal.

10

Peppe Profeta himself is known to give long-stem roses to ladies on Valentine’s Day, as well as complimentary glasses of bubbles.

11

Lucy Johnson, our favorite server, has an eye on you and swoops in before you even know you need anything.

N O W

The only thing wrong with Peppe’s Apt. 2 is that it’s closed on Sundays and Mondays. The rarely changing Italian-American menu isn’t trendy or creative, but it is excellent every single time (and we return often). – Meera Nagarajan

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The panna cotta draped in bright raspberry sauce is a strong finish.

February 2019

PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

R I G H T

The shrimp scampi. Get either the appetizer or the entree, but don’t miss it.

8

The people-watching. Rich ladies with coiffed hair – it’s like a diamond district in there.

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hit list

Union 30 inside Hotel Saint Louis offers what hotel dining should: a crowd-pleasing menu in a luxe space. Soaring carved ceilings, a herringbone marble tile floor and gold accents are softened by leather and velvet furniture, along with a comfort-food menu. With executive chef Matt Birkenmeier (previously of Quincy Street Bistro) at the helm, you can trust the lunch menu of sandwiches and burgers, and dinner entrees like the mac and cheese. The more delicate seared turbot with risotto and saffron broth was also perfectly cooked and beautifully seasoned. And don’t miss the smoker specials, like Friday’s featured 36-hour smoked beef short rib, which comes out meltingly tender on a hulking bone with garlic baby spinach over mashed potatoes.

UNION 30

4 new places to try this month

705 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.241.4300, hotelsaintlouis.com/union30

Over the river and through the woods is Old Herald Brewery and Distillery, Collinsville’s newest restaurant. The drinks are worth the journey – the Printer’s Ink stout is rich and deliciously earthy, while the Dear Abby cocktail, which comprises in-house Ardent Spirits vodka, orange zest syrup, cranberry juice and lime, is refreshing. Are you skeptical when you see poutine on a menu in the Midwest?

Don’t be. The Old Herald Fries starter nailed its balance of creamy cheese curds, savory gravy and flavorful beef cheek. We also enjoyed the Short Rib Burger, an 8-ounce patty served with American cheese, pickle, onion and subtle smoked ketchup.

If there was any question, ELMWOOD Maplewood is definitely one of the best restaurant neighborhoods in the area with the addition of Elmwood, a sleek new spot from Niche alumni Adam Altnether and Chris Kelling. The menu revolves around a charcoal-burning oven and grill from Spain, clearly the VIP in dishes like the creamy, rustic charred sweet potato and the grilled broccoli, which is electrified by a cayenne-tinged tahini dressing. We were crazy about the Mafalda, which marries house-made noodles with grilled vegetable bolognese. And the hot fried chicken liver avoids heaviness when dipped in house ranch. We’re happy to report Elmwood was worth the wait.

2704 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, elmwoodstl.com

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In the same week we grieved the loss of University City’s Shawarma King, we tried Sultān Mediterranean Restaurant in The Grove, and it restored our faith in humanity. The smoky, creamy baba ghanoush and impeccably charred naan proved to be a beautiful combo, while the rustic dolma – served warm and rolled with tangy grape leaves – was an eye-opening rendition of an often basic dish. We adored the Sultan Pilau, a phyllo dough pocket filled with peppery, juicy lamb shank, basmati rice, nuts and raisins. The munto (steamed dumplings) were topped with garlic yogurt sauce, mint and parsley, lending this hearty meal a note of buoyancy.

SULTĀN MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

4200 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.390.2020

115 E. Clay St., Collinsville, 618.855.8027, oldheraldbrewing.com

from top: elmwood, whole black bass at elmwood, union 30 inside hotel saint louis, dishes at old herald brewery and distillery

February 2019

OLD HERALD AND ELMWOOD PHOTOS BY MEERA NAGARAJAN; UNION 30 PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

OLD HERALD BREWERY AND DISTILLERY

February 2019

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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

mantu at barg

NE W A ND N OTA B L E

barg

BY MICHAEL RENNER PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON

On a recent S at u r day n i g h t when venturing out sans reservation should have been foolhardy, Kabul-born Ameen Akbarzada was a one-man show playing to a near-empty house at Barg Continental Restaurant in St. Louis Hills. The night had all the components of a negative review: a large, harshly lit dining room almost devoid of

n e w a n d n o t a b l e B A R G C O N T I N E N T A L R E S T A U R A N T p . 1 1 / / l u n c h r u saucemagazine.com s h J E R K S OI SAUCE U L pMAGAZINE . 1 4 I 11

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Barg (Dari for leaf) is situated on Hampton Avenue next to Yapi (a Bosnian sub shop) and a hardware store in the old Tumo’s Ristorante space, which most recently housed MK’s Asian Persuasion. Before that it was Oasis Shisha Lounge, an Afghan hookah restaurant. The former stage is now an elevated communal lounge area outfitted with comfy cushions. A long bar spans the length of the large, open room and, although no alcohol is served, Akbarzada provides wine glasses if you want to BYOB.

reviews NEW AND NOTABLE p. 2 of 2

On another prime-time Saturday night, the energetic Akbarzada, who looks more like a rapper or model with his straight-billed Nike Jumpman cap and piercing green eyes, was again our host, cook, server and busboy.

He opened Barg last spring with longtime friend Zach Zabih, who ran the kitchen with chef Khan eq Abdul. But by the fall, both partners had left to pursue other businesses, leaving Akbarzada sole owner of St. Louis’ second Afghan restaurant. the dining room at barg and the qabeli palau

Sure, that causes little missteps (like a sambosa appetizer – four deep-fried pastries filled with an herby mixture of potato and green onion – arriving after an entree) and annoyances (like receiving two conflicting menus, one showing several dishes and prices scratched out or handwritten and one with photos of dishes not listed on the other menu or with different spellings).

diners, several televisions silently playing music videos and sports and a blaring soundtrack doing its best to fill the room.

But then the food arrived.

I still think about Barg’s ethereal qabeli palau (also spelled kabuli palaw), Afghanistan’s national dish consisting of a hulking, tender, braised lamb shank redolent of sweet and warm spices hidden in a fluffy mound of longgrain basmati rice pilaf, with shining raisins and lightly caramelized shredded carrots. It’s an entree perfect for winter but will be just as crave-worthy come summer.

Rarely does something as common as rice warrant its own paragraph, but

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nearly everything at Barg is built around it. The Afghan chicken biryani (also spelled beriani) has turmeric-tinged rice aggressively spiced with pepper, clove and cardamom and stir-fried with chickpeas serving as a fluffy bed for two chicken thighs. Even the basic rice accompanying other dishes had a subtle, nutty flavor laced with warm spices.

Where 6417 Hampton Ave., St. Louis, 314.338.1234, Facebook: Barg Continental Restaurant

Then, the food arrived again.

Dipping those crispy sambosas in a vivid green, cilantro-packed chutney melted away any aggravation.

Land-locked Afghanistan sits at a crossroads of civilizations, sharing culinary influences from Iran, Pakistan, India and even China.

Due to marauding invaders (thanks, Ottoman Empire!), it’s also mixed with the

Don’t-Miss Dishes Lamb shank qabeli palau, mantu

Vibe A large room that can feel lonely when not busy

indelible influence of Turkish and Greek cuisines. The East-meets-West mosaic is probably why we often lump Afghan food into tidy, homogenous categories of Middle Eastern or Mediterranean – kebabs, rice, flatbread and the like.

And you can indeed get excellent kebabs at Barg, especially if you order the Emperor Platter: a huge, square plate loaded with rice and four juicy, tender kebabs including chargrilled, lemony chicken, two koobideh (spiced ground beef) and delicately seasoned cubes of lamb. But where was the spicy, stir-fried eggplant known as bonjan boorani or the grilled tomatoes advertised on the menu? It seems they were only included on one of the menus. It can be expensive to update and reprint, but customers shouldn’t have to play “one of these things is unlike the other.”

Whichever menu you’re granted, be sure to order the mantu – delicious, delicate raviolilike dumplings loosely packed with seasoned ground beef and onions made faintly sweet as they steam. They’re barely pinched at top, so the sheer wrappers spread out on the plate like lasagna. Strewn with more ground beef, dollops of split pea sauce and garlicky yogurt that cools and punches at once, this hearty entree is best eaten with a spoon.

It’s not unusual for Afghan restaurants to serve a few Indian and Pakistani dishes, but Barg’s tikka masala can be bypassed.

Other disappointments included a lack of bolani, traditional Afghan stuffed bread, during both visits.

Working alone has to limit what Akbarzada can do in the kitchen. That should change. A restaurant as large as Barg serving specialty cuisine needs a steady flow of diners, if for no other reason than to convey the buzzy, convivial atmosphere that makes dining out inviting and fun. Don’t wait for patio weather – go now, just call ahead and bring a few friends.

Entree Prices $6 to $30

When Daily – noon to 10 p.m.

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reviews LUNCH RUSH

LUNCH RUSH

jerk soul

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Jerk Soul is a bastion of insanely good Caribbean comfort food prepared from timetested family recipes. Located in a renovated brownstone in the north side Hyde Park neighborhood, this modest mom-and-pop operation consists of little more than a takeout window, a chalkboard menu and a few cushions laid out on window benches where people can wait for food. It’s hard to go wrong on the simple menu of classic, fusion and meatless options.

in a distinctly wonderful mixture of raw heat and cinnamon-tinged sweetness.

MAC AND CHEESE This is the perfect companion to the jerk chicken – an indulgent and perfectly satisfying version made with a thick roux and five different cheeses. The creamy sauce and large noodles hide beneath a crusty layer of cheese speckled with oregano, parsley and paprika.

JERK CHICKEN If this is your first Jerk Soul pilgrimage, you absolutely must order the jerk chicken, either as wings or as the more substantial half-chicken entree.

The juicy meat is charcoalgrilled and swallowed in a haze of pimento wood smoke. Hot off the grill, it tears off the bone. But the best part is the crusty outer layer of herbs and spices fortifying the smoky bird. Its dry rub and marinade are packed with black pepper, onion and garlic powders, cinnamon, paprika, thyme, ginger, allspice and a handful of secret ingredients that result

JERK CHICKEN TACOS A favorite from the fusion portion of the menu, the trio is more like fajitas than tacos, which is definitely not a complaint. Smoky and succulent bits of thigh meat are tucked into corn tortillas and topped with grilled sweet peppers, house-made corn salsa and a sprinkling of cheddar and mozzarella.

A little dollop of sour cream finishes off the crispy, satisfying tacos, served with thick-cut and perfectly crispy french fries.

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with fall-apart tender meat that easily slides off the bone.

After breaking down for two hours in a pressure cooker, the delicate meat is bathed in a thick tomato sauce that transforms into a dense gravy with strong hits of allspice, cumin and cinnamon. The savory oxtail pairs well with the slightly sweet and sour side of braised cabbage, boiled down to succulent softness with vinegar, soy sauce and smoked turkey meat.

which is cooked in a savorysweet mixture of coconut milk, thyme and scotch bonnet peppers.

CHICKEN CURRY This warm, agreeable curry is spicy-sweet. Juicy thigh meat is slow-simmered in coconut milk broth with onions, tomatoes, a variety of fresh peppers and russet potatoes.

RICE AND PEAS OXTAIL Jerk Soul’s classic, slowcooked oxtail is much like a plate of super-rich short ribs,

Pair the curry with this showstopper side that red beans-and-rice fans will dig into with joy. The Caribbean classic pairs kidney beans (not green peas) with basmati rice,

THE DOWNSIDE Traditional, slow cooking methods mean orders can take awhile to materialize.

Call ahead or order through Grubhub for pickup or delivery.

Jerk Soul 2016 Salisbury St., St. Louis, 314.601.3871, jerksoul.com

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dine

& drink

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake This month, we’re enjoying the Dawn of Love, a vintage cocktail from 1934. This rich, velvety drink offers complex flavors (light juniper, grapefruit, plum and almond), but simplicity in preparation. In an ice-filled TED AND JAMIE mixing glass, combine 1½ KILGORE ounces Dolin blanc vermouth USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and 1½ ounces Averell and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House Damson gin liqueur. Stir 30 to 45 seconds then strain into a cocktail glass. Finish by twisting a large orange peel over the drink to express the oils then garnish with the peel.

February 2019

Judging from the buzz, natural wines are here to stay. The 2014 Tikal Natural, a medium-weight malbecsyrah blend, features dark fruit aromas with notes of black raspberries, dark GLENN BARDGETT chocolate, spice and Member of the Missouri Wine coffee. There are no legal and Grape Board and wine restrictions for natural director at Annie Gunn’s wine, but most producers use organic grapes with minimal manipulation. This affordable red is sourced from fourth-generation winemaker Ernesto Catena’s biodynamic vineyards in Argentina. $23. Friar Tuck, 792 Gravois Bluffs Blvd., Fenton, 636.326.2088, friartuckonline.com

California-based Firestone Walker has added a super trendy, hazy East Coast IPA to their repertoire – with a West Coast twist. Mind Haze, a 6.2 percent tropical fruit-forward juice bomb, gives ode to the original KATIE HERRERA hazy beer: German-style Area sales manager at wheat. Medium bodied Revolution Brewing with a characteristic creamy mouthfeel, it exudes notes of banana, citrus and ripe peach. Six-pack: $9. Lukas Wine & Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

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BEER

brewing for a cause B Y A DA M R O T H BA R T H

On Nov. 8, 2018, a fire started in the hills of Butte County, California. Within hours, the Camp Fire, named for its origin at Camp Creek Road, raged out of control.

Power lines went down; cell towers were destroyed.

The fire burned for three weeks, killing at least 86 people, injuring numerous firefighters and destroying around 14,000 homes across 153,000 scorched acres. It is considered the deadliest wildfire in California history.

In the aftermath, Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. in Chico, California, started making Resilience Butte County Proud IPA and donating 100 percent of its sales to help rebuild the communities destroyed in the fire. The brewery then published the recipe for the IPA, inviting brewers across the country to sell their own iterations of the beer and donate the proceeds. More than 1,400 breweries stepped up, including over a dozen St. Louis institutions such as 4 Hands Brewing Co., Main & Mill Brewing Co., Perennial Artisan Ales, Schlafly and more.

Everyone’s had their own reasons for pitching in. “It’s a lot to do with the help that we’ve gotten when we suffered our fire about three years ago,” said Ferguson Brewing Co. general manager Robb Wiesen. “The community, locally, came out and really supported us and helped us get back on our feet, so it seemed like the right thing to do.”

Though they’re all made with basically the same recipe, every Resilience IPA is unique.

Ferguson’s version boasts a slight change in grain, but Wiesen said it’s mostly similar to the original. “I think everybody really likes the recipe and the beer,” he said.

Sierra Nevada’s seminal brew carries woodsy overtones of pine along with caramel

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and citrus notes. Charleville Brewing Co.’s Resilience IPA has a thinner body while maintaining the appealing bitterness of the original.

2nd Shift Brewing’s version is smooth, vibrant and well-balanced with a fuller mouthfeel than the other two.

Kyle Kohlmorgen, owner and brewer at Wellspent Brewing Co. in Midtown, said he strictly followed the recipe, even using a similar yeast to Sierra Nevada’s. Despite the fact that it required him to do things differently, he was immediately on board with the program.

“It was out of our comfort zone,” he said. “We just don’t brew that kind of beer, but it was a delicious recipe. … We sold through it faster than really any other beer we’ve had before. It was a great testament to St. Louis and its willingness to step up and do things whenever it can, even for people outside the state.”

Interested in trying interpretations from the 16 local breweries making Sierra Nevada’s recipe? Or just want to help out the cause? You can try samples of every local version in one place on Feb. 17, along with other beers, at 2nd Shift’s STL Resilience IPA Fest on The Hill.

GO DRINK STL Resilience IPA Fest. $30. Feb. 17 – 1 to 4 p.m., 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, Facebook: STL Resilience IPA Fest

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by matt sorrell ⁄⁄ photos by greg rannells

from sushi

what st. louis expects

is changing

nick bognar

Bognar called the dish “kick-ass.”

ick Bognar changed the St. Louis dining landscape last year when he came back to helm his mother Anne Bognar’s restaurant, Nippon Tei in Ballwin.

His combination of classic Japanese techniques and flights of culinary fancy have changed what we dare to expect from sushi.

Growing up at Nippon Tei, Bognar learned to appreciate tradition and the value of repeatedly doing things just so. But eventually, his natural creative bent wasn’t satisfied, so he hit the road, doing stints in some top-tier kitchens around the country.

The year or so he spent at Uchiko in Austin, Texas, was particularly enlightening for the up-and-coming chef. “My standards completely changed after Uchiko,” Bognar said. “I learned that you don’t just have to make a dish and sell it. You can throw it out and start again – you can grind on it a while.”

When he took over Nippon Tei, Bognar envisioned a restaurant where he could combine superior ingredients, time-honored preparations and his penchant for pushing boundaries. He’s brought new life to the family business, satisfying traditionalists and progressive foodie types in equal measure.

The more challenging dishes aren’t always best-sellers, Bognar said, but they push him and the cooks on the line to greater heights. He started his intimate omakase (chef ’s choice) dinner series for the same reason, collaborating with local chefs like Chris Bork (co-owner of the nowclosed Vista) and out-oftown talent like Yoni Lang (one of Bognar’s mentors from Uchiko). Events have ranged from 13 to 20 courses and typically feature a mix of nigiri plates and more composed dishes, like a ceviche-style sea bream sashimi with leche de tigre topped with trout roe and radish.

“We’ve created our own kind of place,” Bognar said. It’s not only a sushi bar or even a Japanese restaurant. It’s probably safer just to refer to it as kick-ass.

yukata on loan from hitomi salini

636.386.8999, nippon.teistl.com

14025 manchester road, ballwin,

nick bognar, nippon tei,

Diners at Nippon Tei can indulge in classically inspired dishes like itoyoridai, a snapper-type fish hung and aged for four days then served sashimi-style. Like anything he considers a culinary success,

Conversely, “I think I do some stuff that’s barely Japanese,” Bognar said.

Take his crudo-like Isaan Hamachi. The fatty fish is prepped with Japanese techniques, but served with a sauce full of northern Thai flavors like palm sugar, kaffir lime, coconut and peanut – definitely not a dish for the Japanese purist.

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notes of lobster and prawn.

waters, which gives the fish fattier flesh and flavor

Kinmedai, or golden eye snapper, lives in cold, deep

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white kombu (kelp), hirame (a japanese flounder)

Yoni Lang prepared the Bird's Nest, featuring fried

At a recent collaborative okmakase dinner, chef

Clockwise, from top left: saba (mackerel) nigiri, top, is cured and marinated five days, and hirame (flounder) nigiri, bottom, is aged 10 days and served with fish sauce.

Bognar sources kohada, or gizzard shad, from Japan’s famous Tsukiji Market, then cures the small, sardine-type fish and marinates it in rice vinegar.

Bognar sources A5 wagyu beef, known for its exceptional marbling, from Kagoshima, Japan.

Nippon Tei’s ceramic soy sauce containers were purchased 18 years ago at Tsukiji Market.

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Bognar sources uni, or sea urchin, from Japan, where it is graded and auctioned.

Bognar said U.S. distributors give the highest-grade uni to clients who purchase the most product. “We buy a lot of uni,� he said.

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around him. At Nippon Tei, we all have sharp knives.”

“Kevin’s influence in the kitchen is powerful,” Bognar said. “He helps to mold everyone

skills. Collectors from all over the world send him their knives to refinish and sharpen.

Nippon Tei sous chef Kevin Pellegrino has spent years perfecting his knife sharpening

fish sauce, candied garlic, Thai kosho (a chili paste) and chili oil.

Isaan Hamachi, one of Bognar’s omakase dishes, features yellowtail hamachi, coconut

24 hours to dry, then ages it another three days before torching the skin to serve.

Bognar hangs akamutsu (rosy sea bass), also called nodoguro (black throat sea perch),

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February 2019

go big with

small-batCH CHoCOLAte It’s easy to find good chocolate, but good local chocolate? And good, local, handmade chocolate? That’s another ballgame. With small-batch chocolates, you get brighter flavors, fewer processed ingredients and purer textures. One bite of something like Rick Jordan Honey Foam or a Kakao milk chocolate bar with toasted Missouri pecans, and the difference is clear. Whether you need something special for an upcoming holiday (cough, cough) or you just want to experience some of the terrific craftsmanship the St. Louis chocolate scene has to offer, here are some of our favorite small-batch chocolatiers.

It’s easy to find good chocolate, but good local chocolate? And good, local, handmade chocolate? That’s another ballgame. With small-batch chocolates, you get brighter flavors, fewer processed ingredients and purer textures. One bite of something like Rick Jordan Honey Foam or a Kakao milk chocolate bar with toasted Missouri pecans, and the difference is clear. Whether you need something special for an upcoming holiday (cough, cough) or you just want to experience some of the terrific craftsmanship the St. Louis chocolate scene has to offer, here are some of our favorite small-batch chocolatiers.

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RIck Jordan ChOCoLAtier Early in his career, Rick Jordan went to France and Italy to study with some of the most revered chocolatiers in the world. He came back with secrets about aeration, emulsification, flavor profiles and chocolate-making technology, and he now makes delightful treats of his own, like 70 percent whiskey barrelaged chocolate bars and English toffee. But his crowning achievement is probably Honey Foam, which contains honey from Jordan’s own bees and has an airy, ethereal architecture unlike anything you’ve ever tried. Rick Jordan Chocolatier, rjchocolatier.com; Larder & Cupboard, 7310 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995, larderandcupboard.com

KaKAo CHOCoLAte Walk into Kakao’s Maplewood headquarters and you step behind the scenes of one of the city’s greatest chocolate teams. Literally – there’s no demarcation between the shop up front and the production floor in the back. If you stand on the edge long enough, they may offer you a fresh sample. In addition to the aforementioned, ultra-creamy milk chocolate with toasted Missouri pecans bar, you should probably try the sea salt caramels, which are available in a gift box.

Kakao Chocolate, 7272 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.645.4446; 7720 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.726.7974; kakaochocolate.com

Nathaniel Reid Bakery Nathaniel Reid’s confections look so elegant that you won’t want to eat them. But after the inevitable photo shoot, you shouldn’t think twice.

Offerings like the Guyana dark chocolate mousse with chocolate croquant and the Sambava macaron

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with vanilla bean and dark chocolate ganache have deep, rich layers that reveal a little more complexity with each bite. Want to keep it basic? Well, that’s not really possible here, but the closest you can get is something like the Madagascar 64 percent dark chocolate bar with crispy pearls. It’s like eating a crisped rice bar (think Nestlé Crunch), but with decadent, buttery chocolate. Nathaniel Reid Bakery, 11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.858.1019, nrbakery.com

BITtersweet KItCHen Bittersweet Kitchen is like the hidden speakeasy of local chocolatiers. Unless you catch its top-selling chocolatesalted caramel and bourbonbutterscotch dessert sauces at one of a few local shops like Parker’s Table or Larder & Cupboard, you’ll have to make an appointment for private pickup and then meet someone from the chocolatier at a special location. It’s worth it. The fudgy, vibrant brownie pops are spectacular. Bittersweet Kitchen, 314.780.6078, bittersweet-kitchen.com

CoNNoLEy Fine ChoCOlates “It’s a hobby gone crazy,” chef Rob Connoley said about his chocolatemaking. But Connoley has mastered the craft, producing some of the most visually stunning chocolates we’ve ever seen. Underneath the treats’ marbled, glittery shine, you’ll find big flavors like passion fruit ganache, blueberry with sheep’s yogurt and granola, house-roasted Rwandan espresso and top-selling salted caramel. The gorgeous desserts will be available at Bulrush, slated to open soon in Grand Center. Bulrush, 3307 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 575.956.3319, bulrushstl.com

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CR I S PY G A R L IC ‘C R OU to N S ’ r e c i p e o n p. 37

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February 2019

GARLIC IT'S WHAT'S FOR DINNER

BY K E L L I E HYN E S // P H O TO S BY C A R M E N T R O E S S E R

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“chicken with four heads.” But that wouldn’t have been as appetizing.

If you’ve never roasted a head of garlic before, start now. Use a sharp knife to slice off the very top of the bulb, then brush the cut side with a bit of olive oil, pushing the oil in between the cloves. Wrap the head in aluminum foil and roast for an hour. The dreamy, creamy garlic that emerges is simply perfect when smeared on a slice of crusty bread; add butter, lemon juice and/ or herbs to push the taste over the top. If you make it a habit to throw a head of garlic in the oven every time you roast something (anything) else, you’ll always have a secret ingredient ready to enhance your salad dressings, condiments, dips, meats and more.

Not in the mood to turn on the oven?

Garlic alchemy happens on the stovetop in the herbed garlic soup recipe (p. 37). Just simmer the cloves from two heads of garlic for a halfhour, until they are super soft. Puree the garlic, then let the soup rest in the refrigerator overnight to deepen its delicate, grassy flavors. In spite of the heavy helping of garlic, it’s a light-tasting broth you can enjoy hot before a large winter meal or as a chilled starter in the warmer months.

H E R Bed GA R LIC SOUP r e c i p e o n p. 37

I AV O I D S C A M P I A N D S H AWA R M A L I K E A VA M P I R E , lest an acrid whiff of lightly cooked garlic seep from my mouth or pores.

But roasted garlic is a root of an entirely different flavor. Low and slow cooking tames this tenacious tuber, mellowing its sharp taste into a rich, round flavor. These recipes

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will leave you reaching for more, rather than for mouthwash.

First, some math. Garlic cloves yield approximately ¼ to ½ teaspoon minced garlic each. There are about 10 to 12 cloves in a bulb, or head of garlic. That means the famous French dish, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic, could have been called

If you’re reading this and thinking, “But I like garlic that tastes like garlic!” rest assured, I have a recipe for you too. Take a handful of peeled cloves and slice them into slivers.

Heat some oil, and fry the slivers until they brown. Sprinkle with salt for an unexpected take on croutons that packs a punch (p. 37). Make sure you reserve the garlic-infused cooking oil to make a tasty vinaigrette (p. 37). You can even add a few fried slivers to the salad dressing for more brazen, garlicky goodness.

When it comes to garlic, a little (or a lot) is rarely enough.

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SIMPLE SA L AD WITH ROASTED G ARLIC VINAIGRET TE r e c i p e o n p. 37

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BRISKET WITH 40 CLOVES OF G ARLIC r e c i p e o n p. 37

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February 2019

BRISKET WITH 40 CLOVES OF GARLIC

ROASTED GARLIC SPREAD

For the love of garlic, use your immersion blender to whirl the sweet, slow-cooked cloves and pan juices into the easiest, tastiest gravy brisket has ever known.

This mild, creamy spread is delicious on crostini as an appetizer, dolloped on steak or a baked potato, or smeared on a hamburger or hoagie.

4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 3½-lb. beef brisket 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 tsp. dried thyme ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 4 heads of garlic, peeled (about 40 cloves) 1 large white onion, cut into 1-inch rings 2 cups beef broth 1 14-oz. can diced tomatoes • Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Sprinkle both sides of the brisket with the salt, thyme and pepper.

• In a large Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the brisket and sear without moving until golden, 3 to 4 minutes.

Flip and sear the other side 2 to 3 minutes. Move the brisket to a plate and set aside. Do not wipe out the Dutch oven.

• Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic and onion and saute until the garlic browns and the onion softens, about 3 minutes.

• Add the broth and tomatoes and deglaze the pan by scraping up any burned bits. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil.

• Place the brisket, fat side up, on top of the onions and garlic, and spoon the sauce and vegetables over the brisket. Cover the Dutch oven and transfer to the oven. Cook until tender, about 3 hours. Transfer the brisket to a plate and let it rest 10 minutes.

• Skim any fat off the top of the braising liquid. Use an immersion blender to puree the onion, garlic and braising liquid into gravy, adding salt and pepper to taste. Slice the brisket across the grain and serve with the gravy.

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¹∕³ CUP 4 heads of garlic 4 tsp. olive oil 2 Tbsp. butter, room temperature ½ tsp. lemon juice Pinch of freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. fleur de sel • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

• Peel the garlic, leaving just enough skin to hold the cloves together. Cut ¼ inch off the top of each head to expose the cloves.

• Place the heads of garlic, cut side up, in a medium baking dish. Brush the olive oil onto the garlic, pushing the oil between the cloves. Cover the dish tightly with foil. Bake until the center cloves are soft and the outer cloves begin to caramelize, about 1 hour.

• Remove the foil and let the garlic rest until cool enough to handle.

Use a sharp knife to extract the cloves from the head then use your fingers to press the roasted garlic paste from each clove into a small bowl. Add the butter, lemon juice, fleur de sel and pepper. Use a fork to combine the ingredients. Adjust seasonings to taste. The paste will keep for a week in an airtight, refrigerated container.

HERBED GARLIC SOUP Pureed, simmered garlic gives this soup a mellow, dairy-free creaminess.

6 SERVINGS

3 sprigs thyme 1 sprig rosemary 2 fresh bay leaves 8 cups water 2 heads of garlic, peeled (approximately 20 cloves) 1 tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 3 egg yolks ¼ cup olive oil

1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar 6 French baguette slices 2 Tbsp. butter, melted 2 oz. shredded Gruyere, plus more for serving 1 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish Special equipment: cheesecloth • Add the thyme, rosemary and bay leaves to a 12-inch square piece of cheesecloth. Tie the ends together to make a bouquet garni.

• Pour the water into a medium soup pot with a tight-fitting lid. Add the bouquet garni, garlic, salt and pepper. Bring to a low boil over medium-high heat then cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer 30 minutes.

• Turn off the heat and use a slotted spoon to remove the bouquet garni and any garlic skins that have floated to the top. Use an immersion blender to puree the garlic cloves until the broth is smooth and cloudy. Return the heat to low.

• Place the egg yolks in a small mixing bowl or immersion blender cup. Pulse the yolks with the immersion blender until they are foamy. Continue to pulse while slowly adding the olive oil. The mixture should become the texture of mayonnaise. Continue pulsing while slowly adding ½ cup hot broth to the egg mixture.

• Add the egg mixture and vinegar to the soup pot. Pulse with the immersion blender to combine then remove from heat. When the soup reaches room temperature, refrigerate overnight to deepen flavors.

• Before serving, bring the soup to a simmer over medium heat. Taste and adjust seasonings.

• Preheat the broiler with the rack 6 inches from the heat source. Brush the slices of baguette with the melted butter and top with the Gruyere.

Toast until the cheese is bubbly, 1 to 2 minutes.

• Divide the soup between the bowls.

Top with the Gruyere toasts, garnish with the parsley and serve with extra Gruyere on the side.

CRISPY GARLIC ‘CROUTONS’ Try fried garlic as an unexpected salad topper or on a cheese plate in place of nuts. Reserve the cooking oil to make an easy, flavorful vinaigrette.

2 HEAPING TABLESPOONS

1 head of garlic, peeled (approximately 10 cloves) 3 Tbsp. canola oil 1 ∕8 tsp. kosher salt • Slice the garlic cloves lengthwise into thin slivers. Set a strainer over a bowl in the sink.

• In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the oil until it shimmers.

Add the garlic and cook, stirring occasionally until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Watch the garlic carefully; once it begins to brown, it burns quickly.

• Pour the oil and garlic into the strainer.

Reserve the garlic oil to make vinaigrette.

Spread the garlic slivers on paper towels and blot dry. Sprinkle with the salt.

SIMPLE SALAD WITH ROASTED GARLIC VINAIGRETTE 2 SERVINGS

3 Tbsp. reserved garlic oil 1 Tbsp. Champagne or white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes ¼ tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. plus 2 crispy garlic “croutons,” divided 1 head butter lettuce, chopped 1 Tbsp. chopped chives 1 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley Freshly ground black pepper, to taste • Combine the garlic oil, vinegar, parsley, red pepper flakes, salt, mustard and 2 garlic croutons in an 8-ounce jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake until well blended. Refrigerate overnight to develop flavors before serving.

• Arrange the lettuce, chives, parsley and the remaining tablespoon crispy garlic on a serving dish. Drizzle with the vinaigrette. Sprinkle with the pepper and serve immediately. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

stuff to do:

FEBRUARY

BY JAMES BOECK M ANN AND TAY L OR COU TAIN

Run for the Chocolate 5K Feb. 9 – 9 a.m., Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier, 1600 N. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.615.2400, runforthechocolate.com Celebrate Valentine’s Day early this year and burn off the treats you’ll eat with a fun run/walk through historic downtown. Enjoy chocolate goody bags, post-race hot chocolate and heart-shaped lollipops. Tickets available online.

Science on Tap Feb. 9 – 7 to 10 p.m., Saint Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.289.4400, slsc.org Featuring more than 100 tastings from breweries like Wellspent Brewing Co., Two Plumbers Brewery and Six Mile Bridge Beer, Science on Tap offers the chance to learn about the science behind beer. Mingle with brewers while enjoying live music, small plates, demonstrations and more. Tickets available online.

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Feast of Good Fortune Feb. 9 – 9 p.m. to 1 a.m., 612North Event Space & Catering, 612 N. Second St., St. Louis, 314.241.3474 ext.

1003, 612north.com Celebrate the Lunar New Year with a feast including night marketstyle foods like Kimchi Guys Korean fried chicken, Drunken Fish sushi, a make-your-own bibimbap bar, dumpling station, drink specials, sake samples and more. Tickets available online.

Cajun CookOff Feb. 16 – noon to 4 p.m., Soulard Market Park, Ninth Street and Lafayette Avenue, St. Louis, 314.771.5110, stlmardigras.org Amateur chefs face off in a Cajun cooking competition while Sugarfire Smoke House’s Christina Fitzgerald and Mike Johnson give demos and samples of their Creole creations. Enjoy an authentic Cajun lunch provided by Sugarfire then groove to Big Easy-style live music. Tickets available online or at the door.

Kitchen Windowsill Herb Seed Starting Class Feb. 17 – 2 to 3 p.m., Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.454.6868, bowoodfarms.com Learn how to start an indoor herb garden with this class taught by Drew Dinges. The workshop includes herbal recipe cards, as well as walk-throughs of three different herb pottings to set up your kitchen for springtime. Tickets available by phone.

Centennial Beer Festival Feb. 19 – 6:30 to 7:30 p.m.; Feb. 21 – 6 p.m.; Feb. 22 – 6 to 9 p.m.; Feb. 23 – 11 a.m., 2 to 5 p.m., 6 to 9 p.m., Moulin Events, 2017 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.1996, centennialbeerfestival.com Sample beers from over 100 breweries during this festival with events ranging from yoga and a five-course dinner from The Old Bakery Beer Co. to a homebrewer’s competition and brunch at Vin de Set. Tickets available online.

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WHAT I DO

Matthew Piva Matthew Piva has always been equal parts artist and gearhead. It’s what originally drew him to a Kaldi’s job fair before he was swept into coffee’s third wave at Sump. He worked with owner and roaster Scott Carey for more than six years and helped open Sump’s Nashville location. Then he took the helm of the coffee program at VB Chocolate Bar, which recently shuttered, giving Piva center stage at Upshot, a soon-to-open coffee shop he co-owns with former VB owner Conor VanBuskirk. Here’s how Piva went from a Kaldi’s barista to one of St. Louis’ sharpest coffee minds. – Catherine Klene

in terms of the right espresso, proper temperature and texture of the milk and execution.

Something about that caught me, and I just ran with it. I would literally make cappuccinos for everyone on staff who wanted one.” “ I L I K E P E O P L E W H O TA K E R E A L LY H A R D S TA N D S I N A S T Y L E , whether I like it or

not. I just really like people who plant a flag.” “ [ S U M P ] WA S L I K E W I L LY WO N K A’ S C H O C O L AT E FAC TO R Y. We would run the

your partner and your child. …

Professionally, it’s motivated me. It makes me go re-evaluate what I’m doing, what I’ve been doing, and I think I’m hungrier than ever.”

“T HE I ND USTRY I TS EL F I S C H A N G I N G S O FA S T. Maybe

that’s why it’s been so interesting.

What applied a couple years ago isn’t even normal anymore.

They’re practicing different ways; coffee’s getting better; equipment is getting better. The information out there is so much better. When I started, there was no information. It was all archaic papers and ‘he said, she said,’ and now there is actually data and science on coffee.”

“IT’S A $5 EXPERIENCE.

gamut on every apparatus that was available and brewing device. … It was literally like, ‘We have this coffee. Cool – OK, let’s try it on espresso. Let’s try it on cold brew. Let’s do a pour-over.’ But there are like six different types of pour-overs. We were just running through all of it.”

It’s not like going to a restaurant or buying a bottle of whiskey or wine that can cost a lot of money.

It’s $5, so if you get burned, it’s like, ‘OK, it’s not that big of a deal. That’s just not for me.’”

“ [ PA R E N T H O O D ] I S THE MOST HUMBLING E X P E R I E N C E . It’s the hardest

I’ve met so many people [in] so many different fields, social classes, just amazing people that I would call friends. I don’t think you get that in a lot of businesses. I think that’s what kept me around for so long.”

thing you’ll ever do, but, because of that, it’s also the most rewarding. You never know how much somebody needs you, both

“ I LOV E C O F F E E – I D R I N K IT ALL THE TIME – BUT IT’S A B O U T T H E C O M M U N I T Y.

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PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

“I REMEMBER SOMEONE S AY I N G A T R A D I T I O N A L CA P P U C C I N O WA S T H E H A R D E S T D R I N K to make

Upshot Coffee, 5326 Hwy. N, Cottleville, 636.352.1139, weareupshotcoffee.com

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LAND MARK

GOODY GOODY DINER

BY A DA M R OTH BA R TH

5900 Natural Bridge Ave., St. Louis, 314.383.3333, goodygoodydiner.com

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February 2019

PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Goody Goody Diner owner Ryan Safi thinks his restaurant’s longstanding prosperity can be explained by two things: great food and a friendly, attentive staff. For the duration of its 71-year tenure (primarily under longtime owners Richard and Laura Connelly), the Goody Goody Diner has served up hearty, satisfying dishes like the slinger and its beloved chicken and waffles (a recipe that’s been passed down since the spot’s early days). To be sure, visits from customers like former vice president Joe Biden – who’s said to have thoroughly enjoyed the ham and cheese sandwich – and legendary St. Louis comedian Cedric the Entertainer, a return customer, don’t hurt one bit.

Still, Safi (who bought the diner in 2014) professes it’s the regular customers who are the true backbone of the Goody Goody Diner. “People know who Joe Biden is – that’s a great wow factor,” he said. “But individuals like Randolph or Bo or B.J. or Phil, the guys that come in almost every day, those are the individuals that we appreciate so much.”

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February 2019