ABC MEN WORKBOOK ANSWER KEY

CUTTING WORKBOOK

Sassoon’s unique education programme is based on 50 years of industry leadership and is intrinsic to Sassoon’s respected cut and colour techniques.

This book, when used in conjunction with the ABC Men DVD series forms a comprehensive training programme that, together with practical experience, will give you the tools to establish your technical expertise and develop your own cutting style.

MARK HAYES International Creative Director

­­­C ONTENTS KEY 06 BONE STRUCTURE 07 MALE SKULL SHAPE 07 KEY PRINCIPLES 08 THE PHASES 09

INTRODUCTION TO SHORT HAIR A1: FINGER LENGTH CROP A2: SHORT CROP A3: SHORT LAYER A4: SHORT BACK & SIDES

21 29 37 45

SUITABILITY 10 PROPORTIONS 11 TECHNIQUE 12 OUTSIDE AND INSIDE OF THE FINGERS 12 SCISSOR OVER COMB 13

CLIPPERS 14 THE BEARD 15 PARTINGS 16

INTRODUCTION TO LAYERS & GRADUATION B1: LAYERS INTO GRADUATION B2: GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION B3: GRADUATION WITH LAYERS B4: GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PART

55 63 71 79

INTRODUCTION TO LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES C1: LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE C2: LAYERED BOWL C3: LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION C4: LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

89 97 105 115

TERMINOLOGY 122

KEY STARTING POSITION CUTTING SECTION SEPARATION OF PANELS EXTERNAL CUTTING LINE EXTERNAL CUTTING LINE (CONCEALED) PARTING LINE DIRECTION HAIR IS COMBED SHOWS NO OVERDIRECTION SHOWS OVERDIRECTION POINTING DEEP POINTING CLIPPER AREA OF SCISSOR OVER COMB

06

KEY

BONE STRUCTURE PRONOUNCED BROW RIDGES

HEAVY EYEBROWS

SMOOTH FOREHEAD

ARCHED EYEBROWS

ANGULAR CHEEKBONES

CURVED CHEEKBONES

SQUARE CHIN

DELICATE CHIN

WIDE NECK

SLIM NECK

MALE SKULL SHAPE SLIGHTLY SLOPING OR RECEDING FOREHEAD

VAULT IS ROUNDED

BROW RIDGES ARE WELL DEMARCATED VAULT IS ROUNDED SUPRAORBITAL MARGIN IS ROUNDED

OCCIPITAL BONE IS LARGE AND PROMINENT

ZYGOMATIC BONE IS PRONOUNCED

LARGE MASTOID PROCESSES

CHIN IS SQUARE AND PROTRUDES FORWARD

BONE STRUCTURE

07

KEY PRINCIPLES Name four important aspects when cutting men’s hair 1.

Working without or with product

2.

Determining the right length for the hair

3.

Working in phases

4.

The use of vertical and horizontal sections

Conduct extra research about the history of men’s hair

08

KEY PRINCIPLES

*Students to research the history of mens hair*

THE PHASES Describe the phase system and its use

Working in phases uses the principles of classical sculpture, establishing

basic proportions, then continually refines and defines the shape before working on the detail.

What are five things to look for while working in phases?

The exterior shape and external proportions

The optimal length, texture and internal proportions Crosschecking Graduating the external shape into the internal lengths Definition and finish The most frequent mistake in time management is:

The most frequent mistake is to not to adhere to the phase

theme, for example using crosschecking to re-cut length rather than repeating the correct phase.

Conduct research on pareto and other disciplines where this principle is used

*Students to research pareto principle*

The 80 - 20 rule - states that 80% of all work produces 20% of the result, and 20% gives 80% of the result. in our case its the final 20% of the work during the definition and finish phase that will produce 80% of the result, giving the look it’s individuality and helping train the eyes to see detail.

THE PHASES

09

SUITABILITY What features of the bone structure and face shape are important to consider?

Be aware of the head in three

dimensions. The nose, forehead and chin are more apparent when studied in the profile. The width of the forehead, cheekbones and jawline are more evident from the front. Assess the head shape, paying attention to the occipital bone, mastoid process, parietal bone and frontal bone.

Why is the square significant in mens work?

Generally mens haircuts look better when they are based on the

square shape which flatters the masculine features of the male skull and face shape.

Why is beveling important?

EXAMPLES OF BEVELLING

10

SUITABILITY

Beveling off the corners will help make the look appear less wide or heavy.

PROPORTIONS List important features to take into consideration when working on the front

The shape and contour of the front hairline

should enhance the shape of the forehead. The distance from the front hairline to the top of the shape, should be in proportion to the overall width. The length of the sideburn will affect the length and width of the face.

List important features to take into consideration when working on proportions on the side profile

To achieve a balanced

profile, the distance from the crown to the front hairline and the crown to the back hairline should visually correspond. The distance from the temple hairline to the occipital bone should be balanced with the distance from the crown to the nape hairline.

List important features to take into consideration when working on proportions on the back

The distance between the

crown and the nape hairline length and the widest point of the back of the head. The hairline length should balance with this in relation to the overall proportion of the look.

DIAGRAM EXAMPLES OF SHORT AND LONG HAIR PROPORTIONS

SHORT HAIR PROPORTIONS

LONG HAIR PROPORTIONS

PROPORTIONS

11

TECHNIQUE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE FINGERS

Draw and describe what happens when hair is cut outside of the fingers

There is a natural tendency to lift the hair

when working outside the fingers. This will produce more layered silhouette.

OUTSIDE THE FINGERS

Draw and describe what happens when hair is cut inside of the fingers

There is a natural tendency to pull the hair

down when working inside the fingers. This will produce a more graduated silhouette.

INSIDE THE FINGERS

12

ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE

TECHNIQUE SCISSOR OVER COMB

Name three important steps to take into consideration when working with scissor over comb techniques

How to hold and control the scissors How to hold and control the comb How to work with the scissor and comb in unison Name at least two important points to remember when holding and controlling the scissors

Keep the ring finger static while moving only the thumb Rest the thumb gently in the scissor ring

Name at least two important points to remember when controlling the comb

Control the comb with the either the forefinger and the thumb securing the comb or resting the comb on the thumb whilst gently wrapping the fingers over the teeth.

Describe how to work with the scissors and comb in unison

While the comb makes its upward and outward

movement the scissors follow the comb with the bottom blade parallel to the stem.

General points to remember when using scissor over comb

Work in the opposite direction of hair growth - keep

the scissors and comb moving in unison - tilt the comb outwards to achieve more length - work only on dry hair - use the wide teeth of the comb first and then the fine teeth to take the hair shorter - keep the bottom blade of the scissors parallel to the spine of the comb - move only the thumb - work in vertical channels that are the width of the scissor blade.

ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE

13

TECHNIQUE CLIPPERS

What is the purpose of using clippers?

Clippers are used to further refine and finish, remove neck hair and

refine sideburns.

Name two techniques the clippers are used for

Clipper over comb technique

Blending skin into hair

Important points to remember while working with clipper over comb

Keeping the clippers and comb moving in

unison - moving the clippers in an upwards and outwards movement - moving in small vertical channels using the previously cut hair as a guide.

Important points to remember white blending from skin into hair

Having the blades closed will take the hair the

shortest - setting the clipper blades open will leave slightly more length - careful adjustment between closed and open can assist with the blending of hairlines.

14

ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE

THE BEARD & PARTING What two issues occur when a parting is not taken into consideration?

The longer parting side would have a layered

look that lies flat. The shorter parting side would have a graduated effect which looks heavy.

What facial features can the beard emphasize or improve upon?

Improvements can be made to the face shape by

emphasizing the cheekbones, the chin, jawline and eyes.

What are some general points to remember when creating a suitable beard shape for a client?

The outline should be

gently faded and the lips should be free, but look natural. Reducing the hair under the chin will enhance the shape of the jaw. Improvements to the face shape can be made by emphasizing the cheekbones, the chin, the jawline and eyes.

What three types of hair need to be taken into consideration when working with partings?

Fine straight hair Hair with a slight wave Thick, wavy hair

THE BEARD

15

PARTINGS Draw a diagram below for when a parting is taken into consideration

16

PARTINGS

PARTINGS DIAGRAM EXAMPLES OF THE CORRECT LENGTH FOR EACH OF THE FOLLOWING TEXTURES

FINE STRAIGHT HAIR

HAIR WITH A SLIGHT WAVE

THICK WAVY HAIR

PARTINGS

17

a SHORT HAIR THE SHORT HAIR SERIES FOCUSES ON THE CONTROL OF WEIGHT BUILD UP WHILST WORKING WITH THE CONTOURS OF THE HEAD SHAPE AT A VERY SHORT LENGTH. THE SERIES DEMONSTRATES SCISSOR OVER COMB AND CLIPPER WORK WITH A VARIATION OF HAIRLINES AS WELL AS ESSENTIAL DETAILS OF FINISHING AND REFINING .

AS THE SHAPES ARE AT A SHORT LENGTH MAKE A THOROUGH ASSESSMENT OF THE HAIR TEXTURE, HAIR GROWTH AND HAIRLINE PATTERNS PRIOR TO SHAMPOOING. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE CONTOURS OF THE HEAD AS WELL AS CHECKING FOR ANY SCARS OR RECEDING HAIRLINES AS THESE WILL NEED TO BE ALLOWED FOR THROUGHOUT THE TECHNIQUE.

FINGER LENGTH CROP This look introduces the A series and forms the foundation of controlling and layering short hair with precision and finesse.

SHORT CROP The next step of the A series shows how to work with extremely short hair lengths. The shape is layered, scissor over combed and refined with clipper work.

SHORT LAYER The short layered look continues the A series by demonstrating how to combine layers with a natural outline shape that is transferable onto many lengths and textures.

SHORT BACK & SIDES This shape concludes the A series and illustrates the combination of internal layering with an extremely short outline to produce this iconic men’s look.

SHORT HAIR FINGER LENGTH CROP

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

22

a

FINGER LENGTH CROP

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

FINGER LENGTH CROP

a

23

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

GRADUATING THE EXTERNAL SHAPE IN THE FINGERS

24

a

FINGER LENGTH CROP

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV

DEFINITION OF THE OUTLINE SHAPE

FINGER LENGTH CROP

a

25

FINGER LENGTH CROP

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Growth patterns

2.

Head shape

3.

Density

4.

Texture

5.

Face shape

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Maintenance

3.

Product use

4.

Details of hairlines

5.

Length of sideburns

26

a

FINGER LENGTH CROP

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers

Round

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Top - Horizontal / Sides and back - Vertical

Top - Crown

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

Hand position - over the fingers / Body position - standing in the back for the

top and sides and standing at the shoulders to cut the back.

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

FINGER LENGTH CROP

a

27

2

SHORT HAIR SHORT CROP

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

30

a

SHORT CROP

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

DEFINING THE INTERNAL SHAPE WITH SCISSOR OVER COMB TECHNIQUE

SHORT CROP

a

31

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

DEFINITION OF THE OUTLINE SHAPE

32

a

SHORT CROP

SHORT CROP

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Head shape

2.

Density

3.

Texture

4.

Growth patterns

5.

Moles or scars

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Product use

3.

When was last haircut

4.

Maintenance

5.

Length of sideburns / facial hair

34

a

SHORT CROP

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers

Round

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Top - Horizontal / Sides and back - Vertical

Top - Crown

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

Hand position - over the fingers / Body position - standing in the back for the

top and sides and standing at the shoulders to cut the back.

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

SHORT CROP

a

35

3

SHORT HAIR SHORT LAYER

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

38

a

SHORT LAYER

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS

PHASE II

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

SHORT LAYER

a

39

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

DEFINE AND FINISH THE OUTLINE SHAPE

40

a

SHORT LAYER

SHORT LAYER

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Texture

2.

Density

3.

Face shape

4.

Head shape

5.

Growth patterns

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Product use

2.

When was last haircut

3.

Length desired

4.

Maintenence

5.

Details of hairlines

42

a

SHORT LAYER

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Top - Horizontal / Sides and back - Vertical

Top - Crown

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

Hand position - over the fingers / Body position - standing in the back for the

top and sides and standing at the shoulders to cut the back.

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

SHORT LAYER

a

43

4

SHORT HAIR SHORT BACK & SIDES

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

46

a

SHORT BACK & SIDES

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

SHORT BACK & SIDES

a

47

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

DEFINING THE INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL SHAPE WITH SCISSOR OVER COMB AND CLIPPER TECHNIQUES

48

a

SHORT BACK & SIDES

SHORT BACK & SIDES

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Head shape

2.

Growth patterns

3.

Moles or scars

4.

Density

5.

Texture

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Length / details of hairlines

3.

Product use

4.

When was last haircut

5.

Maintenence

50

a

SHORT BACK & SIDES

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers and graduation

Round

SECTIONING PATTERN:

First section on top - Vertical then diagonal sections / Sides and back -

Vertical sections

START POINT:

Center top

Hand position - Top - over the fingers sides and back - Inside the fingers / Body position - Top - standing at the side for the vertical section and standing at the back for the diagonal sections. Back and sides - Standing in front of your sectons.

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

SHORT BACK & SIDES

a

51

b

LAYERS & GRADUATION

THE B SERIES FEATURES DIFFERENT EXTERNAL GRADUATIONS THAT CAN BE INTERCHANGED WITH THE INTERNAL LENGTHS. VERTICAL SECTIONS ARE USED TO WORK WITH THE MOVEMENT OF THE HAIR AND ARE COMBINED WITH VARIOUS FORMS OF DISCONNECTION, WHILE FLAT GRADUATION IS USED TO SLIM THE SHAPES. AS WITH ALL SASSOON TECHNIQUES A THOROUGH ASSESSMENT OF THE EXISTING LENGTH OF THE HAIR, THE NATURAL MOVEMENT AND THE CONTOURS OF THE HAIRLINE AND HEADSHAPE SHOULD BE CONCLUDED PRIOR TO COMMENCING THE SHAPE.

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION This essential shape introduces the layers and graduation series and demonstrates how to combine these techniques in a classic, contemporary way.

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION The second technique in the series shows how disconnection is added to produce a modern shape that forms the basis for many variations.

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS The next look in the B series combines graduation and layering at a slightly longer length and gives a wide spectrum of short to mid length options.

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING This cornerstone salon technique concludes the B series and shows how to blend a graduated outline with internal layering whilst retaining a strong external shape.

LAYERS & GRADUATION LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

56

b

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

b

57

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

GRADUATING AND DEFINING THE EXTERIOR SHAPE

58

b

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Head shape

2.

Growth patterns

3.

Texture

4.

Density

5.

Face shape

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Do they wear their hair back or forward

2.

Length desired

3.

Product use

4.

When was last haircut

5.

Maintenance

60

b

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers and graduation

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Vertical

Center top at front hairline

Hand position - Layers - Over the fingers / Graduation - Inside the fingers Body position - Top - Standing at the sides - Sides - Standing behind the chair - Back - Standing at the shoulders.

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

LAYERS INTO GRADUATION

b

61

2

LAYERS & GRADUATION GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DIVIDING THE TOP LENGTHS NOTE: THE TOP LENGTHS CAN BE COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED FROM THE UNDERNEATH SECTIONS OR CONNECTED THROUGH THE BACK.

DISCONNECTED

64

b

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

CONNECTED

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

CUTTING THE UNDERNEATH HAIR

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

b

65

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

CUTTING THE TOP LENGTHS INTO THE TOP OF THE BACK

66

b

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Growth patterns

2.

Density

3.

Head shape

4.

Texture

5.

Face shape

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Length of sideburns

3.

Do they like the top completely disconnected or connected through the back and disconnected at the sides

4.

Product use

5.

How do they style their hair

68

b

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Graduation with disconnection

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Horizontal and vertical

Sides

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

Hand position - Sides and back - Inside the fingers - Top - Over the fingers /

Body position - Sides and back - Standing in front of your sections - Top - Standing on the sides of the chair.

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

GRADUATION WITH DISCONNECTION

b

69

3

LAYERS & GRADUATION GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

THE OUTLINE SHAPE

72

b

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

TOP INTO THE BACK, DIVIDING THE TOP AND CUTTING THE SIDES

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

b

73

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

74

b

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV

DEFINITION AND FINISH

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

b

75

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Face shape

2.

Head shape

3.

Texture

4.

Density

5.

Growth patterns

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

When was the last haircut

3.

Product use

4.

Do they blow-dry

5.

Hairline details

76

b

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Graduation with Layers and disconnection

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Horizontal and vertical

Sides at front hairline

Hand position - Inside the fingers and Over the fingers / Body position Sides - Standing in front of your sections and standing behind Top - Standing on the sides of the chair - Back - Standing at the shoulders.

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS

b

77

4

LAYERS & GRADUATION GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

DETERMINING THE CORRECT INTERNAL PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

80

b

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

b

81

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

DEFINITION AND FINISH

82

b

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Density

2.

Texture

3.

Natural parting

4.

Head shape

5.

Grawth patterns

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Where do they part their hair

2.

How do they style their hair

3.

Product use

4.

Desired length

5.

Maintenence

84

b

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Graduation and layers

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Vertical and horizontal

At the parting

Hand position - Over the fingers and Inside the fingers /Body position - Top - Standing at the side of the parting and standing at the back - Sides - Standing at the back Back - Standing at the shoulders.

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

GRADUATION WITH LAYERS & A PARTING

b

85

c

LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES

THE C SERIES FOCUSES ON VARIOUS OUTLINE SHAPES WITH INTERNAL LENGTHS THAT GIVE MOVEMENT AND TEXTURE. ALTHOUGH EACH SHAPE IS DEFINITIVE THE OUTLINE CAN BE INTERCHANGED TO PROVIDE A RANGE OF SHAPE OPTIONS. ONE OF THE KEY LEARNING AREAS IS THE CONTROL REQUIRED TO LAYER AN INTERNAL SHAPE WHILE MAINTAINING LENGTH AND DEFINITION IN THE OUTLINE SHAPE. PRIOR TO COMMENCING ANY OF THE C TECHNIQUES PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE RECESSION AREA AND THE HAIRLINE PATTERNS AS THE TECHNIQUE WILL NEED TO ALLOW FOR ANY FINENESS IN THIS AREA.

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE This look forms the foundation upon which all further applications of this technique are based by showing how to build a layered shape from an outline.

LAYERED BOWL Continuing the C series, this technique demonstrates the combination of a deep fringe with a strong external line and minimal layering.

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION The third technique in the layers and external line series illustrates how to create an effective combination of layering with a disconnected top.

LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE This extremely commercial hair shape concludes the C series and shows how to combine a layered interior with a natural looking outline.

1

LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

THE OUTLINE SHAPE

90

c

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

DETERMINING THE CORRECT LENGTH PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

c

91

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

92

c

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV

DEFINITION AND FINISH

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

c

93

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Texture

2.

Density

3.

Head shape

4.

Growth patterns

5.

Face shape

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Product use

3.

Maintenance

4.

Styling

5.

When was last haircut

94

c

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers and a line

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Horizontal for the outline and vertical

Sides over the ear

Hand position - Inside the fingers and Over the fingers / Body position Outline - Standing in front of your sections - Top - Standing at the sides - Sides - Standing at the back - Back - Standing at the shoulders.

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

LAYERS WITH AN OUTLINE

c

95

2

LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERED BOWL

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

THE OUTLINE SHAPE

98

c

LAYERED BOWL

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

DETERMINING THE RIGHT INTERNAL AND TEXTURE

LAYERED BOWL

c

99

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

100

c

LAYERED BOWL

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV

REFINING THE OUTSIDE SHAPE WITH MINIMAL GRADUATION

LAYERED BOWL

c

101

LAYERED BOWL

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Density

2.

Texture

3.

Face shape

4.

Head shape

5.

Growth patterns

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Styling

3.

Product use

4.

When was last haircut

5.

Maintenance

102

c

LAYERED BOWL

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers and a Line

Outline - Round / Layering - Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Outline - Horizontal and following the hairline / Horizontal and vertical

Front hairline

Hand position - Outline - Inside the fingers - Layering - Over the fingers / Body position - Outline - Standing in front of sections - Top and sides - Standing at the back Back - Standing at the shoulders.

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

LAYERED BOWL

c

103

3

LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

SECTIONING THE TOP LENGTHS AND CUTTING THE OUTLINE SHAPE

106

c

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

DETERMINING THE RIGHT TEXTURE AND INTERNAL PROPORTIONS USING VERTICAL SECTIONS

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

c

107

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

108

c

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE IV

REFINING THE OUTLINE SHAPE WITH GRADUATION

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

c

109

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE V

CUTTING THE TOP LENGTHS

110

c

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Density

2.

Head shape

3.

Texture

4.

Growth patterns

5.

Face shape

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

Length desired

2.

Product use

3.

How do they style

4.

Texture desired

5.

When was last haircut

112

c

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers with an outline and disconnection

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Outline - Horizontal following the hairline / Layering - Over the fingers

Sideburn / sides

Hand position - Outline - Inside the fingers - Layering - Over the fingers / Body position - Outline - Standing in front of sections - Sides - Standing in the back - Back Standing at the shoulders - Top - Standing at the sides of the chair HAND AND BODY POSITION:

FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

LAYERS WITH DISCONNECTION

c

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LAYERS & EXTERNAL LINES LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE I

FINDING THE RIGHT INTERNAL LENGTH, PROPORTIONS AND TEXTURE

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LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE II

CROSS-CHECK USING HORIZONTAL SECTIONS

LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

c

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TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS PHASE III

DEFINING AND FINISHING THE OUTLINE SHAPE

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LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.

Head shape

2.

Texture

3.

Face shape

4.

Growth patterns

5.

Density

List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.

When was last haircut

2.

Product use

3.

Length desired

4.

Hairline details

5.

How do they style

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LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

TECHNIQUE:

SHAPE:

Layers

Square

SECTIONING PATTERN:

START POINT:

Horizontal and vertical

Crown

HAND AND BODY POSITION:

Hand position - Over the fingers / Body position - Top and sides - Standing

at the back - Back - Standing at the shoulders FINISHING PRODUCTS:

Based on suitability

LAYERS WITH A NATURAL OUTLINE

c

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TERMINOLOGY BEARD AREA

Growth of hair on the chin, lower cheeks of the face and neck area under the jawline which is styled and cut into a shape.

CLIPPERS

Electrical tool that cuts hair at different lengths by oscillating one blade next to another.

In some situations guards can be used.

CONTOURS

The outline of the head. It is the edge or the lines that define the shape of the skull.

JAW

Broadly used term to describe the whole structure of the bone that opens and closes the mouth.

PARETO PRINCIPLE

Often referred to as the 80/20 rule and named after the Italian economist vilfredo pareto (1848-1923).

This principle is used in barbering to describe that 80% of the work done only produces 20% of the result. It is the last 20% of the haircut that produces 80% of the result.

PARTING The area on top of the head where the hair separates and falls which is always determined by the crown area.

PROPORTIONS

The area or size of the haircut in relation to the size and shape of client’s face and skull.

S.O.C

Abbreviation for scissor over comb. The process by which the hair is taken shorter than finger’s length.

This technique can be used to create graduated shapes, flatter shapes or as a refinement technique.

SQUARE

This shape is often created within a men’s haircut to compliment the male bone structure.

SUPERFLUOUS

A surplus or unneeded amount of hair that should be removed.

UNISON

Used to describe the scissors and comb working together to cut the hair.

VAULT The space in the skull occupied by the brain. The vault is formed by the frontal, parietal, occipital and temporal bones.

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TERMINOLOGY

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