May 29, 2019: Santa Fe Reporter: Summer Guide 2019 magazine

2019

Summer Guide

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LIGHT BITES ARTS TREASURE GO FISH

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

INSIDE

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LITE BITES

TAKE A NEW PATH

SUMMER ARTS PREVIEW

Summertime means you want to eat light, and we’ll help you do just that

You’ve heard of the Margarita Trail? Now try these alternate booze journeys

From galleries and museums to DIY spaces, check these can’t-miss openings

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SUMMER AFTER DARK

DON’T-MISS EVENTS

GET OUT ON THE FIELD

Santa Fe doesn’t stay up super-late, but we still have nighttime stuff

Music, markets, parites, hangs and more—your summer’s about to get hot as hell

The glory of sports isn’t just for the pros, it’s for you and your buds

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DISCOVER NATURAL WONDERS & HISTORICAL LANDMARKS

SUMMER MOVIES

Free national parks for kids!

Beat the heat by checking out these silver screen gems

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SAFETY FIRST

DON’T SWEAT IT

I’M LOOKING OVER

Learn how to not stink with our guide to natural deodorants

EDITOR AND PUBLISHER JULIE ANN GRIMM

COPY EDITOR CHARLOTTE JUSINSKI

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AND AD DIRECTOR ANNA MAGGIORE

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS LEAH CANTOR WILL COSTELLO ZIBBY WILDER

SUMMER GUIDE EDITOR ALEX DE VORE ART DIRECTOR ANSON STEVENS-BOLLEN

DIGITAL MANAGER BRIANNA KIRKLAND

Unwind with pretty views in nice places

IT’S YOUR LENSIC

THE NEW POWER GENERATION

STORM LARGE: HOLIDAY ORDEAL

PRINT MANAGER AND GRAPHIC DESIGNER SUZANNE S KLAPMEIER ADVERTISING EXECUTIVE JAYDE SWARTS CIRCULATION MANAGER ANDY BRAMBLE COVER PHOTO CHELSEY EVANS

THE SUMMER GUIDE IS A PRODUCT OF THE SANTA FE REPORTER, ISSN #0744-477X. THE WEEKLY EDITION IS PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAY. DIGITAL EDITIONS ARE FREE AT SFREPORTER.COM. CONTENTS © 2019 SANTA FE REPORTER ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. MATERIAL MAY NOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION.

SFREPORTER.COM @SantaFeReporter

20 SE ASON

FISH GRID

Cast a line in rivers and lakes both near and far

33 In search of Fenn’s treasure?

Search smart with our handy guide to not dying

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facebook.com/SFReporter

@sfreporter, @theforksfr, @lovinsantafe

KAT EDMONSON

AND MANY MORE! MAY 22 LENSIC MEMBERS ($100+) SUBSCRIPTIONS & SINGLE TICKETS ON SALE JUNE 7 SUBSCRIPTIONS & SINGLE TICKETS ON SALE TO ALL

LENSIC.ORG | 505-988-1234 THE LENSIC IS A NONPROFIT, COMMUNITY-SUPPORTED ORGANIZATION

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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FOOD

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DRINKS

Light

Bites

Because a snack can be so much more

BY ZIBBY WILDER

Dumpling Tea & Dim Sum Plaza Galeria, 66 E San Francisco St., 945-5000 This little spot in the back of the Plaza Galeria mall serves up big flavor in small packages. An order of dumplings ($7.99-$8.99) is the perfect light bite for braving the crowds of summer around the Plaza. The offerings here are fresh, handmade and delicious: from soup dumplings to panfried potstickers, spicy dan dan noodles ($7.99) to the refreshing gold coin cucumber salad ($5.50).

A summery mango or passionfruit smoothie is a choice accompaniment.

there are a couple of items perfect for noshing, even sharing, without getting too full—like the cabeza de ajo ($8), a plate of melted cheese paired with an entire head of roasted garlic and green chile. Piled on crusty bread, it’s a tasty snack that will hold you over until dinner. Another is the fried cheese curds, little hunks of deepfried cheese with a spicy tomato dipping sauce. Easy to share, though you may not want to!

TerraCotta Wine Bistro 304 Johnson St., 989-1166 TerraCotta’s extensive wine menu is among Santa Fe’s best.

Hervé Wine Bar 139 W San Francisco St., 795-7075 For those looking to escape the sun for a bit while still enjoying the brightness of a Santa Fe summer day, Hervé Wine Bar is a great option. The airy space is beautifully designed with large skylights that filter in the sun and gives off a distinctive European vibe. Snackers can choose a tasting flight of New Mexico-made DH Lescombes and St. Clair wines to pair with a variety of pleasing light bites.

These include everything from a shrimp and chorizo appetizer ($7) to salads, panini and the ever-popular bruschetta ($15); choose four from eight types, which include sweet and spicy pepper jam with Old Windmill goat cheese, or crispy salumi and roasted grapes with Old Windmill goat cheese and local lavender-infused honey.

ZIBBY WILDER

S

ummer means a lot of outdoor time here in Santa Fe. Most of us like to get out there for a hike, perhaps entertain visitors to town, or just soak in the sunshine. What many of us don’t like is doing any of this on an empty stomach—or too full a stomach. Here are some of our favorite places for light bites to keep you powered up for the long days of summer.

It’s especially nice if you’re just stopping in for a snack, as it offers wines by the glass as well as half-bottle, for those looking to keep things light. TerraCotta’s bruschetta ($16) makes an ideal small item to carry you through the day: Choose four from a menu of eight creative options, ranging from seared ahi tuna with Sriracha louie sauce to brie with fig and port jam.

Cowgirl BBQ 219 S Guadalupe St., 982-2565 One of the many things that makes the Cowgirl a local favorite is its giant menu. In particular,

Dumpling Tea & Dim Sum—almost a little too real.

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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BIG RIVER

INFO

RAFT where TO MEET TRIPS

All trips meet at the Visitor's Center in Pilar, New Mexico between mile marker 28 and 29 on Highway 68. 15 min south of Taos or 53 min north of Santa Fe.

SINCE 1983 MOST FUN

BEST DEAL

what YOU NEED

FUN RAPIDS TOO!

Bring a hat or baseball cap, t-shirt & shorts, and strappy sandals or tennis shoes. It is always good to have sunscreen.

Water & snacks.

Services are limited. No cell, no internet, no ATM!

WOW!

LIMITED TIME ONLY

ACT NOW BEFORE IT'S TOO LATE!

goods WE SHARE

We supply all rafting equipment including extra clothing, splash gear, shoes, rain gear, snacks, bottled water, sunscreen, PFD (life jacket), boat and paddle!

how WE ROCK

Our river guides have many years experience, are trained in CPR, First Aid, and are certified Swift Water RescueTechnicians. They also answer questions about the birds, plants, rocks and things & know local history.

COME IN MARCH & APRIL, IT’S COLDER BUT THE WATER IS HIGH! COME FOR EVEN BIGGER WAVES IN MAY & JUNE! By mid-July thru September the water level drops to summer fun, with technical maneuvers rafting around rocks, over drops & thru tight squeezes!

WHITE WATER

We know how important your vacation is and we want to make it as much fun as possible.

BIG RIVER RAFT TRIPS WAY BIG FUN

575-758-9711 bigriverrafts.com

ON THE

La Boca Original: 72 W Marcy St., 982-3433 Taberna: 125 Lincoln Ave., 988-7102 La Boca is a tapas place, so ideal for a light bite. In summer, the small space expands with the opening of Taberna’s courtyard.

Eight-time James Beard award nominee chef James Campbell Caruso pleases snackers with a wide assortment of Spanish and Mediterranean-inspired bites.

Favorites include the crispycreamy patatas bravas ($9); mejillons (black mussels in salsa verde, parsley, garlic, spinach, lime, and jalapenos) ($14); and the alcachofas, grilled artichokes with Spanish goat cheese, orange zest and mint ($15).

If you’ve decided to head up the mountain to escape summer temperatures, Izanami at Ten

If you’re feeling fancy, Santa Fe’s got plenty of that. A great spot for something a little different, though, is Bouche Bistro. This French bistro offers light snacks including classic escargots a la bourguignonne ($13), duck wings a l’orange ($14) and chilled oysters with champagne mignonette ($21). The wine list is just as impressive, with a wide selection of both old- and newworld libations.

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Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado, 198 Hwy. 592, D FR 946-5700

GO

EY

21 Ten Thousand Waves Way, 982-9304

451 W Alameda St., 982-6297

The Bar

28 Main St., Cerrillos, 438-1821

Izanami

Bouche Bistro

JO

Black Bird Saloon A trip outside the city is always made better when you know you’ve got a great place to stop for a snack, and the Black Bird Saloon in Cerrillos is definitely worth a detour. Enjoy a cold beer on the patio and snack on one of many delicious housemade options such as the grilled game sausage duel, venison and rabbit sausage with blueberry and dijon mustards ($12.50) and “The Smelter” grilled cheese, with smoked trout, Irish whiskey cheddar, mascarpone, apple and onion jam on rustic bread ($10.25). For those looking for a sweet treat, the Black Bird Saloon is one of the only places around town lucky enough to serve up homemade desserts by Momo & Company.

delicious soft serve ($3.50)— chocolate, vanilla or both!

Thousand Waves is a must-visit.

Izanami serves Japanese izakaya (small plates for sharing) with stunning forest views; looking out its windows you’d have no idea you were in New Mexico.

Prepare to share a variety of small plates to tide you over.

Delicious options include smoked pork ribs in a sweet chile glaze with ginger pineapple red cabbage slaw and parsley peanut sauce ($14) and the decadent sake-braised shimeji and oyster mushrooms ($10) in tamari butter sauce with togarashi and bean sprouts.

Izanami’s smoked pork ribs with sweet chile glaze, ginger pineapple red cabbage slaw and parsley peanut sauce. Oh, dang.

For those who like snacking with a view, the bar at this luxury hotel in Tesuque is a great spot to watch a stunning Santa Fe sunset while sharing an order of chicken wings with Buffalo green chile sauce and avocado ranch ($15). If you’re not feeling the shares, try the short rib sliders, slow-cooked meat with a pretzel bun, manchego cheese, tempura jalapeño and coconut slaw ($16).

Opuntia Café Taco Fundación

922 Shoofly St., 780-5796

235 N Guadalupe St., 982-8286

For a moment of zen, tuck into Opuntia’s exceptionally bright and refreshing space for some calming tea and a snack. Optunia’s toasts make for lovely light bites and span the spectrum from savory sauteed mushrooms ($11) with Tuscan kale, roasted garlic, fontal and reggiano to sweet fruit and cheese toast ($9) piled high with blue cheese, apple, watercress, whipped ricotta, toasted almonds and local honey.

Few people aren’t fans of the sandwich of the southwest— tacos. Taco Fundación is an easy stop to quell hunger pains without filling up too much. The variety of tacos here runs the gamut from traditional, al pastor ($3), to the more exotic such as the fried oyster taco ($3.75) and verduras 1 with sweet potato, garlic kale, pine nuts and cotija ($3). For a sweet snack, try the

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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Take a New JOY GODFREY

BY ZIBBY WILDER

Margaritas not your thing? Take one of these trails less traveled

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ith 46 locations around the city offering up a special margarita, Santa Fe’s Margarita Trail (santafe.org/margaritatrail) is well-traveled. If margaritas, or drinking 46 of them, aren’t your thing, there are plenty of other options for those looking to get their drink on. Santa Fe boasts an impressive variety of cocktail lounges, distilleries, breweries and wine tasting rooms. Here are some alternatives to the Margarita Trail, for those who prefer to drink their way down a road less traveled.

Cocktails:

Gruet tasting room manager Justin Pichardo pouring the Gilbert Grand Reserve.

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SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

While there are many great bars in town, hence the existence of a margarita trail, there are also standouts that offer a cocktail experience on par with those of bigger cities; or even one brimming with Santa Fe’s unique “flavor.”

Evangelo’s Cocktail Lounge (evangeloscocktaillounge.com), a downtown standard since 1971, is cash-only and one of town’s few truly late-night establishments, open until 2 am daily, except The Lord’s Day, when they close at midnight. Across the street and down some stairs, The Matador (116 W San Francisco St.) is Santa Fe’s best-known (and only) punk rock dive bar, where the drinks are cheap but the atmosphere unmissable. As one Facebook fan put it, it’s “Santa Fe’s dive bar paradise. Underground in every way.”

Just down the street, tucked behind the ever-popular Café Pasqual’s, Tonic’s (tonicsantafe. com) tiny space belies big cocktail personality. The art of mixology is taken seriously here and the cocktail menu changes regularly. You’re likely to find a classic or two on the menu, but mostly creative, unexpected cocktailing.

The same goes for the downtown tasting room of Santa Fe Spirits (santafespirits.com). Bartenders here take their time crafting concoctions with great attention to detail. Consider trying a whiskey drink here; Liquor.com calls Santa Fe Spirits’ Colkegan single malt whiskey the best in the state. For those into the darker side of spirits, Radish & Rye (radishandrye.com) offers Santa Fe’s only bourbon-centric bar menu—crafting cocktails from a hand-chosen barrel of Buffalo Trace. A bit south, those who enjoy agave spirits and Instagram-worthy design can wile away an afternoon or evening in La Reina’s (elreycourt. com) stylish space. This recently opened watering hole at the newly redesigned El Rey Court motel mixes up drinks with a focus on tequila and mezcal, including the ever-popular Southwest standard, Ranch Water (tequila, Topo Chico, and lime).

Wine:

Santa Fe isn’t brimming with wine bars, per se, but it’s not hard to find places boasting pretty bodacious wine lists. TerraCotta Wine Bistro (terra cottawinebistro.com), near the O’Keeffe Museum, has over 250 glass and half-bottle options, conveniently organized by price.

Choices range from new- and old-world producers, starting at

JOY GODFREY

Path The Saison du Sarlacc from Rowley Farmhouse Ales. Star Wars homage?

Probably!

under $10 per glass and ranging up to $150+ a bottle. A few blocks away, New Mexico wine producers Gruet (gruetwinery.com), Noisy Water Winery (noisywater winery.com) and Hervé Wine Bar (hervewinebar.com) are each don’t-miss spots for trying wines from the country’s oldest wine-growing region.

Gruet is known around the world for its award-winning sparkling wines, but also boasts a healthy offering of still wines, from chardonnay to pinot noir. Noisy Water and Hervé feature a stunning spectrum of varietals, from New Mexico-grown refosco and sangiovese to semillon and chenin blanc; at Noisy Water the adventurous can even sample a New Mexico chile wine. If you’d rather enjoy a bottle in the comfort of your home or hotel room, La Casa Sena’s Wine Shop (lacasasena.com) offers over 2,000 choices from around the world. The wines here and specifically chosen by the shop’s experts, not by scores, and their expertise has earned the Wine Spectator’s “Best Award of Excellence” for 18 years running.

Beer:

So. Many. Options. Start this journey off on a different foot at Honeymoon Brewery (honey moonbrewery.com). This somewhat new kid on the block is serving up the Southwest’s first hard kombucha brew and stacking up the accolades for its hard work:

Sunset Magazine recently named Honeymoon’s Camellia Flor #1 in a taste test of hard kombuchas from around the US. Heading downtown, Chili Line Brewing (chililinebrewery.com) specializes in smoked beers, everything from pilsner to porter, and its interior patio is a prime spot for downing a few pints in the sun.

Santa Fe Brewing Co. (santa febrewing.com) and Second Street Brewery (secondstreet brewery.com) can’t be missed, not just because they both have multiple tasting rooms around town, from downtown to down south, but because they each offer a wide variety of beers and encourage tasting flights. Heading down Cerrillos Road, Rowley Farmhouse Ales (rowleyfarm house.com), was recently crowned New Mexico’s “Great American Beer Bar” by craftbeer. com for the second year in a row, and its Germophile sour was a big winner at the Great American Beer Festival. South on Agua Fría Street, Tumbleroot Brewery & Distillery’s (tumbleroot breweryanddistillery.com) cavernous space is often overflowing with imbibers enjoying the best of both worlds: heartily crafted beers and handmade, organic spirits. Tumbleroot’s nonstop lineup of live music makes it the ideal place to end this journey—as often, the music and the drinks are so good, it’s hard to break away.

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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T H E SA N TA F E O P E RA

EXPERIENCE THE ENCHANTMENT LIVE

63RD SEASON JUNE 28 – AUGUST 24

LA BOHÈME Giacomo Puccini

THE PEARL FISHERS Georges Bizet

COSÌ FAN TUTTE Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

JENŮFA Leoš Janáček World Premiere

THE THIRTEENTH CHILD Music

Poul Ruders Becky and David Starobin

Libretto

santafeopera.org 505-986-5900 Illustration by Stuart McReath

COURTESY CURRENTS NEW MEDIA FESTIVAL

Catch The Garage, an experimental documentary by Steve Summers, at the Currents New Media Festival this June.

Summer Arts Preview SUSAN BEINER: SUGAR FIELDS form & concept 435 S Guadalupe St., 216-1256 MAY 31-JULY 13 Everybody’s favorite progressive downtown gallery showcases Beiner, whose modular floral wall sculptures merge the natural and the human-made into one gallery-wide installation.

According to the artist’s statement, recognizable patterns begin to emerge the longer we observe the work. We can’t wait to find out what that looks like. formandconcept.center

JUDY TUWALETSTIWA: THE DREAM LIFE OF OBJECTS Center for Contemporary Arts 1050 Old Pecos Trail, 982-1338 JUNE 7-SEPT. 15 The longtime Santa Fe resident unleashes her multimedia ruminations on the unpredictable nature of objects (we caught an informal

Tuwaletstiwa talk recently, and she attributed the concept to her friend Tom Joyce, a kickass blacksmith/artist). Tuwaletstiwa’s weavings alone are worth a visit, but in the periphery of the show lies stranger and more fascinating pieces. Not only that, but the CCA celebrates 40 years in 2019. ccasantafe.org

CURRENTS NEW MEDIA FESTIVAL Various Locations JUNE 7-23 The new media powerhouse may have opened a permanent brick-andmortar on Canyon Road (which rules, btw), but the annual festival is still going strong each year across Santa Fe. From AR, VR and all things interactive to dizzying feats of videography, coding, sculpture and the intersection of all those things, find special events from the world’s most innovative, provocative and evocative contemporary artists; plus maybe a few local names as well. currentsnewmedia.org

ARTIST LECTURE SERIES: ERIN CURRIER Blue Rain Gallery 544 S Guadalupe St., 954-9902 JUNE 11 SFR fave Currier discusses her body of work—a Blue Rain mainstay—and how her travels from Beijing to Buenos Aires have impacted her style and paintings. Currier’s art is often about individual people, though it errs into deeper territory as well, from the political to the sublime and all points in between. blueraingallery.com

PEOPLE ON THE FLY Art House Santa Fe 231 Delgado St., 995-0231 JUNE 14 The Carl & Marilynn Thoma Foundation’s dedicated contemporary arts space stuns with Austrian-based artists Laurent Mignonneau and Christa Sommerer’s US debut of the 2016 interactive piece People on the Fly. The work makes

use of a proprietary algorithm that causes digital versions of flies to “swarm” visitors’ captured images. On a surface level, it sounds super-rad, but such programs may also help AI scientists determine how lifeforms make and enact decisions on a particle level. What?! thomafoundation.org

GALLERY CONVERSATIONS: THE GREAT UNKNOWN New Mexico Museum of Art 107 W Palace Ave., 476-5072 JUNE 14 Celebrated counterculture expert and Norteño music hound Jack Loeffler speaks as part of the museum’s ongoing lecture series, which ties into the current exhibit The Great Unknown: Artists at Glen Canyon and Lake Powell, a collection that examines the locale’s odd but vital role as artistic catalyst. If you don’t know already, Loeffler is a treasure. nmartmuseum.org CONTINUED ON PAGE 13 >>

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE KEEP Contemporary 142 Lincoln Ave., 557-9574 JUNE 14 HR Giger, the mastermind behind the art direction of the Alien films, shows alongside a bevy of other invited artists at KEEP’s biggest show of the summer. keepcontemporary.com

BRANDON MALDONADO: IDENTIDADES Pop Gallery 125 Lincoln Ave., 820-0788 JULY 5-AUGUST 31 Painter Maldonado returns nearly a year to the day after his stellar and critically praised Neo-Picassoism exhibit at Pop with contemporary new-brow pieces rooted in Flemish painting style, Catholic iconography, Spanish traditionalism and beyond.

With six new paintings, Maldonado retells the story of the Spanish conquest of the New World with roots in fact but also some in myth. Ummm, sold. popsantafe.com

REBECCA MIR GRADY: UNDERNEATH Show Pony Gallery 501 Franklin Ave., Ste. 4 JULY 13-AUGUST 31 Jeweler, photographer and all-around artistic maven Grady teams up with Show Pony Gallery—a project of Curate Santa Fe’s Niomi Fawn—for colorful abstractions and geometric shapes on black paper.

Given Grady’s wide swath of media, there’s no telling what other surprises might be in store. And anyway, Show Pony might be one of the most important galleries to keep an eye on at this moment. showponygallery.com

IAN KUALI’I Hecho a Mano 830 Canyon Road, 916-1341 JULY 26-AUGUST 24 One of Canyon Road’s newest galleries welcomes Hawaiian/Apache artist Kuali’i, a self-taught creator specializing in large-scale hand-cut paper, murals, prints and more. According to gallery owner Frank Rose, Kuali’i’s work always has a specific origin and intent alongside subtler and outright hidden meanings. hechoamano.org

Lee Nam Lee

Cartoon Folding Screen II 2010, five-channel video

GVG CONTEMPORARY 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY GvG Contemporary 241 Delgado St., 982-1494 AUGUST 2SEPTEMBER 15 GvG founders Blair Vaughn-Gruler and Ernst Gruler celebrate a decade in the Santa Fe arts world this year—no small feat given the hustle and bustle of our gallery scene. As part of the celebrations, the Grulers party hard with a two-person show honoring dedication, collaboration and passion within the art-o-sphere. gvgcontemporary.com

FIGURATIONS GROUP EXHIBIT Nüart Gallery 670 Canyon Road, 988-3888 AUGUST 9-25 From the bizarre and surreal to the dreamlike, realistic and all places therefrom, painters Michael Bergt, Erin Cone, Matthias Brandes and John Tarahteeff come together at one of our alltime favorite galleries for a group show that we’re so excited by that we might pass out. Jay kay—but it is definitely stellar work. nuartgallery.com

EARTH ALGORITHMS LANDSCAPES OF THE DIGITAL AGE

Opening Reception: Aug 23, 5-7pm

Interactive and digital artworks are on view year-round at the Thoma Foundation’s Art House. Always free to experience.

231 Delgado Street, Santa Fe, NM Summer Hours: Wed–Sat, 10am-5pm

www.thomafoundation.org

thoma FOUNDATION SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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Located in Eldorado Hotel & Spa 309 W. San Francisco St., Santa Fe | 505.988.4455 | EldoradoHotel.com

Located at Inn and Spa at Loretto 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe | 505.988.5531 | HotelLoretto.com

ALL ROADS LEAD TO...

AFTER DARK

BY ALEX DE VORE

We don’t stay up late late, but we do stay out An online friend recently posited that they were sick of hearing people bemoan a lack of local nightlife; that those people who claim to be in search of nighttime entertainment simply weren’t looking in the right places. Of course, no one can argue that Santa Fe doesn’t shut down a tad earlier than larger cities—that’s just the nature of Smalltown, USA—but that doesn’t also mean that we can’t find things to do once the sun goes down.

You just have to know where to look and at what times. Below, find a handy list of venues and events (in no particular order) that might just scratch that late-night itch. Y’know, late for Santa Fe, anyway.

TONIC 103 E Water St., 982-1189 Proprietor Winston Greene took over the old Atomic Grill space on Water Street some years back, and has since turned it into a vibrant venue for carefully concocted cocktails and late-night jazz.

Most shows don’t even begin until 9:30 pm, and given the caliber of musician (Jeremy Bleich, Casey Anderson, Loren Bienvenu and Brian Haas, to name just a few), it’s quietly grown into one of the more happening spots in town.

Jazz; happening—what have we even become?

LA REINA El Rey Court, 1862 Cerrillos Road, 982-1931 Though we’ve heard the term “hispter” bandied about from some of our more disagreeable pals, La Reina’s bright atmosphere, focus on mezcal and minimalist style have slingshot the fledgling hotel bar into one of the can’t-miss

Santa Fe pit stops you always hear about.

Sometimes it hosts music, sometimes the hotel pool is emptied and becomes an art gallery, sometimes you’re just looking to quaff something in a different part of town.

This is that place.

Tonic’s Myrna Loy cocktail.

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SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

MEOW WOLF ADULT NIGHT 1352 Rufina Circle, 395-6369 When the locals cried out for nights without kids, everybody’s favorite arts mega-corp answered the call and set about designing an adults-only play session for the 21-and-over set. Now, every Thursday from 8-10 pm, the House of Eternal Return politely asks the kids to beat it while the Float Bar (MW’s brand-appropriate watering hole) serves up them fancy drinks and beer, too. We realize this isn’t late-night by larger cities’ terms, but it’s still something.

THE CAVE 1228 Calle de Commercio, facebook.com/TheCAVE666 A recent SFR cover story doled out some of the DIY metal venue’s history, but for any metalheads who missed the call, The Cave is hosting the best in local and touring metal acts pretty much all the time. Shows start at 8 pm, the cover is usually around $10 and you just plain know you’ll see the best of the best—expect to have your face melted clean off.

GHOST. 2899 Trades West Road, facebook.com/ggghhhooosssttt The HQ of local label Matron Records, a decidedly punk rock take on the DIY venue and the space that nearly single-handedly proved to Santa Fe that a bunch of nerds with an artsy/musical dream didn’t need official venues

CHARLOTTE JUSINSKI

to have a good time, Ghost. has carved a niche so important and so excellent that the years before its existence just kind of feel like a waste of time. That’s hyperbole, but to say we love this place so hard we might cry absolutely isn’t.

Most shows start around 8 pm.

BOXCAR 530 S Guadalupe St., 988-7222 With shows in recent years including Siberian rockabilly phenoms The Red Elvises and hip-hop royalty The Alkaholiks, Boxcar’s later start time on shows (almost always 10 pm) not only proves there’s a place for people who stay up late, it’s got cool things going on. Throw in that kickass menu with plenty of vegetarian options, huge TVs for sports and one of the few actual stages in Santa Fe venue-dom, and it’s definitely a must. Even better?

There’s often no cover.

ZEPHYR COMMUNITY ARTS STUDIO 1520 Center Drive, Ste. 2, facebook.com/ zephyrmusicandart Music venue, reading room, workshop space, art gallery— Zephyr Community Art Studio has grown to include so many cultural offerings it’s hard to believe the people behind it are often working on a volunteer basis. The metal set recently joined the crew at Zephyr, adding a certain brutality (in a good way, though) among the singersongwriters, painters, writing teachers, dancers, solo vocalists, experimental indie rockers and so on. All hail the glorious Southside warehouse, all hail. Most shows start around 8 pm.

Xanthe Alexis at Zephyr Community Art Studio

JEAN COCTEAU CINEMA 418 Montezuma Ave., 466-5528 One of the hallmarks of a cool arts town is the oft-beloved midnight movie. And though the Jean Cocteau Cinema takes the earlier bedtimes of Santa Feans into account

by hosting its series at 10 pm, it’s still exciting to have an arthouse theater that plays old horror movies, anime classics and other fun surprises for night owls.

According to the theater, the staff picks the films on a rotating basis for the first and third Sundays of the month, and in case you somehow didn’t know, the ol’ JCC was resurrected by George RR Martin a few years back and has since grown into one of our most vital screens.

THE MATADOR 116 W San Francisco St.

e of the mmer at on plays this su pm, actually) movie ng hi at Lo t” (10 Fear and u’s “midnigh ts.

Jean Coctea nigh

No late-night list would be complete without the king of local dive bars, The Matador. And it’s not about bands (they don’t have ’em) or art shows (there’s punk rock posters everywhere, end of list), it’s about a strong drink served up affordably, a roster of DJs occasionally spinning country to metal and everything in between, and a staff of fiercely loyal barfolk who remember you even if you’re not in all the time and who know you work hard and deserve a respite.

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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Jennifer Esperanza

IT’S GONNA BE A GRE AT SUMMER IN THE RAILYARD! LEVITT AMP SANTA FE CONCERT SERIES AT THE RAILYARD Railyard Plaza at the Water Tower Saturdays 7-10pm June 8 – August 31 Except Fridays as noted (*)

June 8: JOHN PAUL WHITE June 21: TURKUAZ * June 29: PERUVIAN NIGHT July 6: DWAYNE DOPSIE July 13: THE GREYHOUNDS July 20: NATU CAMARA July 26: SANTA FE’S TRIBUTE TO ARETHA! * August 3: REVEREND HORTON HEAT August 10: DEVOTCHKA August 24: VALERIE JUNE August 31: FANTASTIC NEGRITO Presented by AMP Concerts concerts.levittamp.org/santafe

RAILYARD PARK SUMMER MOVIE SERIES Every other Friday night at dusk Except Saturdays as noted (*) May 31– August 23

May 31: FINDING DORY June 14: Original PLANET OF THE APES June 28: BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY July 12: BRING YOUR DOG TO THE MOVIE NIGHT for ISLE OF DOGS July 27: MARY POPPINS RETURNS * August 9: WALL-E August 23: INCREDIBLES 2 Presented by AMP Concerts ampconcerts.org/tag/Movies

SOL SUNDAYS June 2 / 12– 6pm / Railyard Plaza Yoga, Fitness & Silent Disco Presented by Sol Wellness solwellness.clinic CURRENTS NEW MEDIA 2019 June 7–23 / Inside El Museo & Outside at the Railyard 10 Years of Cutting Edge New Media Art from around the World Presented by Parallel Studios currentsnewmedia.org SFI INTERPLANETARY FESTIVAL June 14 –16 / Railyard Park Changing the World One Planet at a Time Bands • Scientists • Movies Experiments • IP Beerfest • Fun Including Planet of the Apes, The Family Stone & more!

Presented by Santa Fe Institute interplanetaryfest.org

THE RAILYARD S

E AN T A F

BEST OF SANTA FE July 26 / 5–10pm / Railyard Plaza & Farmers Market Pavilion The Best of Music, Food, Drink & More Including Santa Fe’s Tribute to Aretha Presented by Santa Fe Reporter & AMP Concerts calendar.sfreporter.com/cal/1598149 SOL SUNDAYS August 4 / 12–9pm / Railyard Plaza Yoga, Fitness & Silent Disco Presented by Sol Wellness solwellness.clinic WE ARE THE SEEDS SANTA FE 2019 August 15–16 / 10am–9pm / Railyard Park Indigenous Voices through the Arts Presented by We Are the Seeds Cultural Trust wearetheseeds.org NATIVE CINEMA SHOWCASE FAMILY NIGHT August 17/ 8 –10:30pm / Railyard Park Presented by SWAIA & National Museum of the American Indian • swaia.org SANTA FE JIN FOLK DANCE NIGHT August 18 / 5–7pm / Railyard Park Learn Japanese Folk Dance from the Experts!

Presented by Santa Fe Japanese Intercultural Network • santafejin.org

RELAY FOR LIFE June 22 / 5–9pm 20th Anniversary in the Fight Against Cancer Presented by American Cancer Society/ABQ cancer.org/about-us/local/new-mexico.html

SANTA FE MOUNTAIN FEST September 13–15 / 9am– 9pm Railyard Park Outdoor Recreation, Craft Food & Beverage Festival Presented by Velo New Mexico santafemountainfest.com

RAINBOW FAMILY PRIDE PICNIC June 23 / 12–3pm / Railyard Park We are Family!

Presented by the Envision Fund santafecf.org/envisionfund

FIESTA FELA October 12 / 11am– 6pm / Railyard Park African Art & Music Festival Presented by Afreeka Santa Fe afreekasantafe.org

CONTINUING: SANTA FE FARMERS MARKET Tuesdays & Saturdays 7am –1pm Farmers Market Hall & Plaza

SANTA FE ARTISTS MARKET Saturdays / 8am –2pm Across from REI

RAILYARD ARTISAN MARKET Sundays /10 am – 4 pm Farmers Market Hall

LAST FRIDAY ARTWALK 5–7pm/ Railyard Art Galleries Jazz from SWINGSET Under The Water Tower

ALL OUTDOOR EVENTS ARE FREE !

FOR TIMES, DETAILS & INDOOR EVENTS GO TO: RAILYARDSANTAFE.COM & SANTA FE RAILYARD FACEBOOK PAGE

GOMEZ PHOTO WORKS

Once the weather warms up and we can do things outside, the entire city bursts with activity.

Catch a show, buy some art, take in a movie with your dog or simply celebrate your favorite things from Santa Fe.

-

FIND PINK FREUD AT THE BANDSTAND THIS SUMMER

JUNE ARTSMART’S EDIBLE ART TOUR JUNE 14 AND 15 artfeast.org The beloved annual affair finds downtown and Canyon Road businesses mixing up walking tours, art, food and drink. Even better? The event benefits youth arts education from ARTsmart.

SANTA FE BANDSTAND JUNE 19-AUGUST 9 santafebandstand.org The festival continues its yearly run, both downtown and on the Southside, with dozens of outdoor concerts throughout the summer. Catch performances from Eliza Gilkyson, Jono Manson, David Berkeley, Margaret Burke and Friends, Los Straitjackets and so many more, and all for free. Zero bucks. No clams.

SANTA FE PRIDE JUNE 22-30 pridesantafe.org Pride turns 50 this year, and the local festivities, including the ultra-cool parade, are as positive, colorful and fun as ever—plus the annual parade downtown on Saturday June 29. Go for the outfits, stay for partying.

JULY FIELDS OF ELYSIUM CD RELEASE JULY 1 fieldsofelysium-prog.bandcamp.com At Tumbleroot Brewery & Distillery, Santa Fe’s resident proggy metal act Fields of Elysium releases their latest, In Ancient Contemplation, and pretty much slays everyone with mathy riffage and killer vocals.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 21 >>

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DELIGHT IN SUMMER

M u s i c | T h e ate r | A r t

ALLAN HOUSER ALLAN DAVID HOUSER PEARSON DAVID JONATHAN ALLAN HOUSER PEARSON HERTZEL ALLAN HOUSER open now

DAVID JONATHAN DAVID PEARSON HERTZEL PEARSON

Shakespeare in the Garden JONATHAN

JONATHAN HERTZEL HERTZEL Romeo & Juliet May 31-June 9

Summer Garden Dinners July 18 - 19, 25 - 26

Monthly thru Sept | 5:30pm

public gardens • classes • events san tafe b otan icalg ard e n .org 715 Camino Lejo • Museum Hill Santa Fe

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SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

SUZANNE S KLAPMEIER

INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET JULY 12-14 folkartmarket.org Countless sellers from countless countries descend upon Museum Hill for the internationally-renowned market we all know and love. This is the big one, folks, the one eager shoppers swarm each year like woah.

SERVING SANTA FE SINCE 1992

DOG NIGHT: ISLE OF DOGS JULY 12 ampconcerts.org AMP Concerts continues its summertime run of free Railyard events with a screening of the fantastic 2018 Wes Anderson stop-motion feature—and you can bring your dogs to hang out; y’know, if they’re good dogs.

BEST OF SANTA FE AND SANTA FE SALUTES ARETHA FRANKLIN JULY 26 SFReporter.com Your friends at SFR gather our readers’ favorites at one massive party in the Railyard. There’s food, live music, a dunk tank and the Santa Fe Salutes tribute to Aretha Franklin. Come say hi and get your own Best of Santa

INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET

Fe T-shirt designed by a local artist!

TRADITIONAL SPANISH MARKET AND CONTEMPORARY HISPANIC MARKET JULY 27 AND 28 spanishcolonial.org contemporaryhispanic marketinc.com We love our markets here in Santa Fe, especially when they combine the stalwart old with the exciting new. The pair of Spanish markets does just this and everyone’s the better for it.

DOWNTOWN

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fashion•paintings•antiques•photographs•crafts

AUGUST WE ARE THE SEEDS AUGUST 15 AND 16 wearetheseeds.org SEEDS continues its twocity reign between Philadelphia and Santa Fe with this year’s Railyard Park market. Dozens of vendors with traditional and contemporary Native arts, crafts, jewelry, textiles, performances, food and more come together—plus, if we’re being honest, some pretty sweet parties.

ISLE OF THE DOGS

CONTINUED ON PAGE 23 >>

FOLLOW THE THREADS GALLERY features artists who are mostly from the Taos area, including a few from the Pacific Northwest and New England.

for those who are bold and expressive. Other art work includes vibrant and visually pleasing paintings, antiques, profound photographs, and custom-made crafts.

In the gallery you will find Marci’s fashion designs, using vintage and southwestern materials, which are shaped

The gallery is located in the magical Taos Historic District across from the Harwood Museum.

Please come visit us!

OWNER – Marci Lebowitz

241 Ledoux Street • Taos, New Mexico 87571 630-624-0143

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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COURTESY MEOW WOLF

MEOW WOLF’S TAOS VORTEX

MEOW WOLF’S TAOS VORTEX

creations hold the legendary line.

AUGUST 16-18 taosvortex.com

ZOZOBRA

Meow Wolf ups the ante and adds a third day to the second iteration of its second annual Taos music festival, this time with George Clinton, CocoRosie, Snail Mail, Flying Lotus 3-D and so many more. Tons of ticket levels are already sold out, but you’re resourceful, right?

SWAIA INDIAN MARKET AUGUST 17 AND 18 swaia.org One of the largest and most revered arts markets on the planet hits its 98th year, bringing thousands of visitors and locals to see the works of countless Native artists on and around the Plaza.

We’re particularly excited for some of the contemporary vendors we’ve heard will be there this year, but the traditional

AUGUST 30 burnzozobra.com Quite possibly our city’s biggest event of the year, the 95th annual Burning of Zozobra finds Old Man Gloom embracing the 1970s as part of the Decades Project, a fun li’l wrinkle in the event that themes the big guy around a different decade each year. We’re hearing rumors about a Star War paean.

The Festi val S a n ta F e Chamber Music

July 14 – Augus t 19, 2019 Se a s on 47 Marc Neikrug, Artistic Director

SEPTEMBER WINE & CHILE FIESTA SEPTEMBER 22-29 santafewineandchile.org As the summer comes to a close, console yourselves with the best wine and chile pairings our city’s finest chefs and sommeliers can muster.

505.982.1890 SantaFeChamberMusic.com Pictured: Wei Luo, Ida Kavafian, and Peter Serkin.

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

Get Out on the Field

Join an adult recreational sports league to have fun this summer

BY LEAH CANTOR

Summer seems the perfect time to join an amateur sports league and spend sunny afternoons out on the field. But for many sports, such as softball and baseball, summer registration has already closed. For sports like rugby and volleyball, the spring season is almost over. So what does that leave for adults who want to get in the game now?

Soccer is the big one, but Santa Fe has opportunities for tennis and golf as well.

Santa Fe Adult Baseball League 2019

PlayYourCourt Santa Fe Tennis Meetup

About: The Santa Fe Adult Baseball League is all-ages, coed and open to anyone. The summer season is already underway, but the fall season, which starts in August, is open to registration for individuals and is accepting new teams now.

About: Play ourCourts is a national online membershipbased organization that matches tennis players with coaches and other players at your level. Regional organizers schedule group practice sessions and Challenge League matches.

Join: There is an annual $300 at-rate membership fee per team for the fall season.

Teams must have a minimum of 10 players, a manager or coach, and must provide their own uniforms. Call 0- 99 or email izheonfire gmail.com.

Join: .99 monthly membership fee. isit meetups.com to find the local practice session schedule. Register at playyourcourt.com tenniscommunity santa-fe-nm meetup.

The Santa Fe Golf Meetup About: Not a liated with any o cial league or membership organization, this meetup is open to golfers of all ages and skill levels. Check meetup.com The-Santa-Fe-Golf-Meetup for upcoming events.

Santa Fe Adult Soccer League About: The Santa Fe Adult Soccer League has over 500 players and organizes multiple leagues that play throughout the year, including a men’s league, a women’s league, a coed league and an over- 5 senior league.

Join: There is an annual $36 membership fee to join the umbrella organization, and different leagues within the organization have varying registration fees ranging from free to 5 a season.

Different leagues have different registration dates as well, and many are still open for summer. isit sfas.leagueapps.com leagues to register.

When/Where: Practices and games happen at Salvador Perez Park at St. Francis and Alta ista and at multiple school fields around the city check the league website for schedules.

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Discover Natural Wonders and Historical Landmarks

W

BY LEAH CANTOR

through the towering conical rock formations carved by 7 million years of weather, ending with breathtaking views from the mesa above.

Just make sure you enter the full name of the park in Google maps, otherwise you might end up at a lone tent rock near Los Alamos.

Distance from Santa Fe: 41 miles

such as fishing, biking, building a fire, bringing a dog on the trail and so on.

Check each park’s visitor center for Junior Ranger activity booklets.

You might not have cell service at the park, so share your itinerary with someone and grab a map before you set out. Check the status of forest fires at nmfireinfo.com and make sure you’ve researched how to safely build and put out a campfire if you plan to stay overnight. Bring enough water, sunscreen and an extra layer in case weather changes. Talk loudly or wear something that jingles to keep bears at a distance. Don’t leave food out, don’t feed the wildlife and follow the leave-no-trace philosophy by taking your trash with you when you leave.

Learn more at everykidinapark.gov.

Headed to Albuquerque? Take the morning to stop at the Petroglyph National Monument, one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America.

Depending on which trail you choose, you can see between 100 and 400 petroglyphs on an easy round-trip hike.

Distance from Santa Fe: 65 miles

Day Trips

There are nearly a dozen national and state parks located within an hour’s drive of Santa Fe that are perfect for a day trip.

Weekend Trips

At Bandelier National Monument, a trail leads up a narrow canyon past cliff dwellings built by Ancestral Puebloans that you can explore by climbing up series of wooden ladders.

Distance from Santa Fe: 40.8 miles Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument near Cochiti Pueblo offers a magnificent hike COURTESY EVERY KID IN A PARK

ith the National Parks’ Every Kid in a Park program, fourth-graders across the country and their families get free access to national and state parks, forests and public lands.

New Mexicans are especially lucky to be surrounded by breathtaking natural landscapes and historic sites, so you won’t have to go far to get the most out of the passes before they expire at the end of August.

Research has shown that access to nature can play a role in mental and physical health and can improve academic performance. Julie Anne Overton, the public affairs officer for Santa Fe National Forest, hopes that “[the passes] will launch our kids on the path of stewardship. … Our parks and forests belong to all of us, so every kid should get to enjoy them.”

This year Elena Kayak, the sustainability program specialist at Santa Fe Public Schools, worked with the Santa Fe National Forest to get a pass to every fourth-grader enrolled at SFPS—but if your kid has lost lost theirs, you can get a new one by stopping at the BLM office (301 Dinosaur Trail) or the Santa Fe National Forest Headquarters (11 Forest Lane).

Before you plan your trip, check the park’s website (search nps.gov or emnrd.state.nm.us/SPD) to find out about current conditions, possible closures and permitted activities,

Is your kid in fourth grade?

You get to explore national and state parks for free

Get your fourthgraders into the parks for free.

For an overnight camping adventure, spend a day at Chaco Culture National Historical Park, exploring the ruins of an ancient city that was once the cultural and political center of the Southwest. Ancient Chacoans were master astronomers; learn how they constructed their city in alignment with celestial events and glimpse the stars through the powerful telescopes at the park observatory’s night sky program.

Distance from Santa Fe: 179 miles Head south to White Sands National Monument, where sledding down the rolling dunes left by ancient seas is a popular activity.

Distance from Santa Fe: 232 miles Check out the underground mysteries of Carlsbad Caverns National Park, one of the weirdest and coolest places on Earth; or inside it, anyway.

Distance from Santa Fe: 292 miles

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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summer movies THE LION KING

BY ALEX DE VORE

We break down the hottest movie releases of summer with this handy guide to the best (and worst) the silver screen has to offer.

JUNE THE LAST BLACK MAN IN SAN FRANCISCO JUNE 7, R Jimmie Fails wrote and stars in this film about a black man from San Francisco coming to terms with the rapidly changing nature and populace of the city he loves.

DARK PHOENIX JUNE 7, PG-13 ame r ne Sophie Turner stars as the legendary Men champion Jean Grey—who, you may recall, can probably kill everyone everywhere should she so choose.

MEN IN BLACK: INTERNATIONAL JUNE 14, NOT YET RATED BUT PROBABLY PG-13 It’s the sequel no one wanted to the franchise that just won’t seem to die This time out, Chris Thor Hemsworth and Sorry to Bother alum Tessa Thompson also from Thor fight aliens and face a potential mole within MiB. It’s probably gonna be kooky.

TOY STORY 4 JUNE 21, G One wonders how many perilous adventures a bunch of toys can fall into at this point but, even more so, one wonders how much longer we’re supposed to suffer Tim Allen.

YESTERDAY JUNE 28, PG-13 When Jack smashes his head one night, everyone else in the world forgets The Beatles ever existed. e then becomes rich by stealing their songs and horning in on their hard work, songwriting and general vibe in director Danny Boyle’s newest. James Corden is in this one, so yuck.

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2019 JULY SPIDER-MAN: FAR FROM HOME JULY 2, NOT YET RATED BUT PROBABLY PG-13 Look, it’s not like we think the never-ending stream of comic book movies is good per se, but the last Spider-Man was pretty fun and this one will probably also be pretty fun. Don’t act like you’re not going to see it.

MIDSOMMAR JULY 3, R Former Santa Fean and horror film wunderkind Ari Aster (Hereditary) reveals his next opus about a couple on a vacation that doesn’t work out. Death, we bet, follows.

We’re getting Wicker Man vibes.

THE LION KING JULY 19, NOT YET RATED BUT PROBABLY PG Beyoncé, Donald Glover, John Oliver and a whole host of other super-hot celebs lend their voices to this “live action” retelling of the animated The Lion King (which itself was pretty much a retelling of Hamlet, which itself was a commercial for Denmark, we think).

ONCE UPON A TIME IN HOLLYWOOD JULY 26, R QuentinTarantino has a new one, it’s this one, and Leo DiCaprio is in it along with Margot Robbie, Timothy Olyphant and Brad Pitt.

Others, too, probably. It’s about Hollywood’s fading Golden Age, and it’ll feel exactly like all his other movies. You’ll mansplain to people about it using words like “brilliant” and “visionary” despite those things being patently false. No, we haven’t seen the movie, but we have seen your future, obviously.

DORA AND THE LOST CITY OF GOLD

DARK PHOENIX

JULY 31, NOT YET RATED BUT PROBABLY PG The onetime cartoon gets the big-screen archaeological thriller treatment, and before you start whining about how that’s stupid, it’s a big-budget movie with some serious Latinx representation. Ya been told!

AUGUST SCARY STORIES TO TELL IN THE DARK AUGUST 9, NOT YET RATED BUT PROBABLY PG-13, MAYBE R Those books your parents somehow let you read when you were in elementary school become a fully full-on film with production help from Guillermo del Toro and a whole lot of nostalgia.

SEPTEMBER IT CHAPTER TWO SEPTEMBER 6, R Pennywise the dancing clown returns as the Loser’s Club, now adults, gear up to fight the cosmic fear machine. Bill Hader’s in this one!

DOWNTON ABBEY SEPTEMBER 20, PG All those rich British people you love for some reason return to fret over the socioeconomics of servants vs. not-servants. The music swells; Maggie Smith says something you wouldn’t expect a dowager to say.

THE INFORMER AUGUST 16, R A cop with a dark past goes to prison on purpose to do cop stuff and stop crimes. This is the epitome of a rainy-day, you-had-nothing-elsegoing-on-even-at-all movie.

OVERCOMER AUGUST 23, PG The endrick brothers a filmmaker team we’re apparently supposed to know about, but we honestly don’t) helm this pic about a small town facing factory layoffs and the way in which high school sports somehow becomes a salve unto that.

THE LAST BLACK MAN IN SAN FRANCISCO SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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BAG LIMIT KEY

FISHING FISHING AREA

RIO GRANDE

Red: Catch-and-release with tackle restrictions Green: 2-trout daily bag limit with tackle restrictions Xmas: 2-trout bag limit with any legal tackle

DISTANCE

TYPE

54

Cutthroat, rainbow and brown trout, Kolkanee salmon

miles: Take Highway 84 north to Highway 68

BAG LIMIT/ RESTRICTIONS

Xmas

105

RIO CHAMA

RED RIVER

miles: Get on St. Francis and head north on Highway 84

SANTA CRUZ LAKE

miles: Hop on I-25 N and then get off at Highway 50

32

miles: Take Highway 84 south and then hop on Highway 503

209

ELEPHANT BUTTE LAKE

Red, Green, Xmas depending on area

106

miles: Head toward Taos, then take Highway 522 to Highway 38

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PECOS RIVER

Cutthroat, brown trout

miles: Take I-25 south, then take the HighHigh way 81-N/Rock Canyon exit

Rainbow, brown trout

Rainbow, brown, brook trout, largemouth bass, crappie, jumbo perch

Trout, northern pike, walleye, bluegill

White bass, catfish, walleye, crappie

Green, Xmas

Red, Green, Xmas depending on area

TOP 6 FISHING SPOTS IN NM

ABOUT

Arguably the most famous river in the Southwest, the Rio Grande is a great place to fish too—and Pilar, one of the best spots this time of year, is only an hour drive away.

Head towards the spot where the Rio Chama flows out of Heron Lake and El Vado Reservoir for plenty of trout fishing, or head up to Heron if you’d prefer stillwater fishing.

A nearby destination for more than just fishing, Red River flows through the town near Questa that bears the same name. Take a weekend and get some hiking, rafting, camping, hunting or horseback riding in between casts.

The fishing is good anywhere along the Pecos, but at Pecos National Park, there’s fun for even the non-anglers in your party. Fishing is allowed within the park between June 13 and Aug. 15, but you’ll need a reservation and it’s catch-and-release only. If that isn’t your style, there are plenty of other spots outside the park to drop a line, either near the town of Pecos or further south along the river. Try Monastery Lake just north of town for some relaxing shoreside fishing in a stocked lake.

None

Only a 45-minute drive or so, Santa Cruz is stocked with trout throughout the year. Its proximity makes it another good candidate for a spur-of-the-moment weekend outing.

None

This one is a drive for Santa Feans, and you’ll probably need a boat to get to the best spots, but if you have the means, it’s worth it. There’s a ton of walleye, bass and catfish in there, ready for the catching. There’s currently a state record on the books for a 4-foot-long, 78-pound flathead catfish that was pulled out of Elephant Butte in 1979. Will you be the one to top that?

SPECIAL THANKS TO THE REEL LIFE 526 N GUADALUPE ST., 995-8114

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31

get the hell outta dodge.

Steal away a day on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. It’s a 64-mile journey that zig zags through steep mountain canyons, the high desert, and lush meadows between Antonito, Colorado and Chama, New Mexico.

Begin your adventure in either town. The trip includes a hearty lunch buffet and luxury motor coach shuttle back to your car. Your daily grind can’t follow you into the great, unspoiled West. book now at cumbrestoltec.com 1-888-286-2737

America’s most historic scenic railroad 5/15/19 5:38 AM

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SantaFeFarmersMarket.com | 505-983-4098 | LIKE US ON

The hunt for Forrest Fenn’s treasure is on, but don’t die out there

BY JULIE ANN GRIMM

E

ven people who have covered miles and miles on Santa Fe’s wilderness trails can make a wrong turn or take a nasty fall and end up in trouble. Plus, every summer there’s a share of visitors to the area who think they are going to find Forrest Fenn’s legendary hidden treasure. It’s the goal of the Santa Fe Search and Rescue to lose as few of them as possible.

“They need to be cognizant of their safety. I have been on a few searches for treasure hunters, and unfortunately they don’t turn out well,” says Jack Fulton, the group’s vice president.

State Police have gone so far as to request that Fenn reveal the location of the treasure to stop people from dying while they seek it, but Fenn refuses. He expects “at least several thousand” people will come hunting here this summer. As of press time, he was busy hanging out in his own yard on Santa Fe’s east side. “I’ve been sitting out in my trees with a cold lemonade in one hand and a hose of water in the other,” he tells SFR. “My little dog Willie sits with me and we love to water the fruit trees.”

It’s been more than a decade since he says he hid a chest containing hundreds of gold coins, jewels and other valuables. A poem contains all the clues to its whereabouts that he’s willing to give. But he understands people get overly ambitious. “It is easy to get turned around in the Rocky Mountains,” Fenn says.

“Searchers should always take a GPS and know how to use it. Don’t go alone and let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return.”

Fulton notes that one of the lines in the poem suggests, in fact, there will be water near the treasure. So, that’s an added element of danger.

“This time of year those water sources are running real fast and can be really dangerous if you are close to it or fall into it,” he says. “And if there is a thunderstorm coming, it’s only going to run faster.”

Santa Fe Search and Rescue encourages adventurers to carry the right gear, including a wool hat and firestarting materials.

COURTESY FORREST FENN’S THE THRILL OF THE CHASE

Safety First

Forest Fenn’s treasure.

Survive the Adventure Santa Fe Search and Rescue (santafesar.org) has printed new informational cards its members are handing out this summer. While those materials are more detailed than our list, treasure hunters and others should keep in mind these three common-sense categories: 1. Check your gear. Make sure you’ve got sunscreen, a warm hat, rain gear, a first aid kit, lights, fire-starting material, food, water and other essentials.

2. Check your route. Take a decent topo map. Tell someone where you are going. Aimless wandering is a quick way to get lost. Cell phone apps for hikers have improved to the point where it’s useful to have them loaded onto your phone, even if just for emergencies. When a call or text can’t get through, sometimes the phone’s GPS chip will still have enough signal.

3. Check the weather and yourself. Snow falls in the mountains well into June, and temperatures can dip drastically due to high wind and rain storms. Watch the sky. Don’t risk the dark clouds. Are you dehydrated or feeling sickness from altitude? Stop now.

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Don’t About three years ago, I decided to stop smearing aluminum on my lymph nodes and made the shift to natural deodorants. Studies have suggested that high aluminum concentration in the body can increase risk of breast cancer and Alzheimer’s disease, and while nothing’s been unequivocally proven, I opted to make the change anyway.

It wasn’t easy—I’m kind of a sweaty person. Plus, I’m often stressed out, and something about human physiology that I don’t understand seems to make stress-related sweat smell even worse than normal. I was apprehensive, but my body adjusted

1

If I can wear natural deodorant, anyone can

BY CHARLOTTE JUSINSKI

to the new routine after a week or two.

Now, after three years and a few dozen brands, from the stuff you can get at Target to small-batch blends only found in mountain-town galleries in Colorado, I have found a few gems that actually work on this sweaty Slav. Keep in mind, though, that every set of armpits is different, and what works for me may not work for you—or your holy grail may do nothing for me. So just have fun sniffing and experimenting, and maybe start with my five favorite products.

I received no free products for this story; these are my honest opinions of items I purchased myself.

Ambre Blends

$35 at the Santa Fe Salt Cave (1424 Second St., 365-2875) $17.50/ounce I know. You looked at that price and cried, “Down with capitalism! Eat the rich! Curses on all who would spend $35 on deodorant!”

And I would usually be right there with you—except regarding this brand. This is the gold standard.

I bought it on a whim, thinking any brand with the audacity to be so expensive might have something to brag about … and strangely, I was right. I’d never have the nerve to recommend it otherwise.

This stuff is vegan and organic, glides on smooth, is available locally, and made me smell like an actual forest flower goddess. The Ahnu scent is the best-smelling deodorant ever, and I kind of want to smear it on my neck like perfume too. Even at the end of a long day, my work clothes smell beautiful, not that musky sweat-and-essential-oils smell that most deodorants leave behind.

So when I get sent to the guillotine with the rest of the bourgeoisie, at least my neck will smell good.

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SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

2

BRC Vegan Skin Care

$10 at the Railyard Artisan Market (10 am-4 pm Sundays, Farmers Market Pavilion, 1607 Paseo de Peralta) $4.72/ounce

Handmade with care and precision right here in Santa Fe by entrepreneur Robin Goddard, BRC does a swift business online as well as in person here in town. Her deodorants, which she’s spent years getting just right, come in 10 scents; I decided to try eucalyptus lemongrass, her best seller.

It is indeed awesome, and almost smells edible. (Given the high quality of Goddard’s ingredients, I probably could eat it, but I’m not going to.) I need to spend 30 seconds or so “melting” it under my arm—a common thing for natural deodorants, you’ll find—but it only takes a small amount to last most of the day.

You can usually find Goddard at the Railyard Artisan Market (“probably 90% of the Sundays throughout the year,” she says), or shop www.byrobincreations.com, her online storefront; we found you have to type the www for that site, by the way. She also makes a ton of other products, many of which sell like wildfire, so stock up on all your body care needs from a natural, local, woman-run company.

3

Meow Meow Tweet

$14 at meowmeowtweet.com $7.77/ounce

This was the very first natural deodorant I ever tried in 2016, and I still use it regularly. Vegan, cruelty-free and made with organic ingredients by some cool folks in Gardiner, New York, it’s packaged in cardboard for that ultra-eco-friendly effect. Plus, the company donates to nonprofits like the ACLU, RAICES Texas, Planned Parenthood and animal welfare organizations, so they wear their greatsmelling heart on their sleeve.

I like the lavender bergamot scent (which is supposedly also really good for staying happy and calm, if you believe in the benefits of essential oils—whatever, it can’t hurt), but the lemon eucalyptus is nice as well. They also have a baking soda-free grapefruit scent, and many more bath and body products.

4

Primal Pit Paste

$11.99 at Whole Foods Market (753 Cerrillos Road, 992-1700) $6/ounce

Perhaps the most mainstream brand I’ll mention here, Primal is available at bigger stores and on Amazon and whatnot. It comes in a ton of scents; I like jasmine and “Royal & Rogue” (whatever that means), and the smells are very subtle, not overpowering at all.

The reasons it slipped to #4: It’s grainy, which is a feature of many natural brands I tried (though not my first three choices), and it simply doesn’t work quite as well for me as the ones above.

That being said, it’s affordable and easy to find, so I still keep a couple sticks in my cabinet. Interspersing my Ambre days with Primal days are how I can afford more expensive brands and not use them up too quickly.

BONUS ROUND: EO Natural Deodorant Wipes 69¢ each at La Montañita Co-op (Solana Center, 913 W Alameda St., 984-2852)

I can’t lie: Sometimes natural deodorants wear off before my day is over.

Thankfully, there’s a fix for that. I keep a handful of individually packaged EO wipes in my purse and travel bags for when I need to run from one place to another and don’t have time for a refresh.

On one particularly humid May day in New York City last year, I started smelling like a desert vagabond about midway through a party. I popped into a bathroom, used a wipe, and soldiered on. Shortly thereafter, the friend I was with said, “Hey, do you smell incense?” I said no. Later, on the subway, she said it again: “No, I swear, I smell incense—it’s really nice.”

I figured at that point that it was probably me (or, rather, the lavender EO wipe) that she was complimenting, and was just thankful she didn’t say, “Hey, does it smell like the campground at a Phish show to you?” instead.

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

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JULIE ANN GRIMM

Windmill Ridge

I’m Looking Over ...

Find respite and views at Santa Fe’s high places

BY JULIE ANN GRIMM

I

f watching the light change on the horizon is more your bag than scanning a crowded streetscape, what better way to get into the summer feels than taking a few quiet minutes at a place with a fantastic view? We recommend lunchtime picnics, sunset meditation and weekend retreats to our favorite overlooks.

Hyde Park Road

The quintessential spot at the tippytop of the mountain is the last point where you can admire the sparkling city below without lacing up hiking boots. What’s great is this spot is on the public Hyde Park Road, so you can’t get in trouble for checking out the stars long after the sun sinks.

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Hyde Park Road

Pick up some litter while you are there and you’ll get a bonus sense of righteous indignation. Stop lower down for Aspen Vista to stretch your legs or use the federally funded toilet.

ascending footpath and signs toward the Mirador Overlook. It’s a fast 1.2 miles to a bench with vistas of the craggy top of the Ortiz Mountains on display.

Cerrillos Hills State Park

Windmill Ridge

This one does require a short walk, but it’s really worth it. Head to the state park that’s about 27 miles south of Santa Fe off Highway 14 through the Village of Cerrillos.

Then, park at the last parking area on Camino Turquesa Road. (Don’t forget to stop and pay $5 day-use fee at the first parking lot, or you’ll likely get a reminder note from the ranger.) Walk up the stairs at the Cortez Mine trailhead and follow the

SUMMER GUIDE | 2019 | SFREPORTER.COM

Chances are, lots of people don’t know about this park at the corner of Saddleback Mesa and Mineral Hill on the southwest corner of the Rancho Viejo subdivision. For views that don’t involve twisty roads, this is the spot. Gaze at the picturesque windmill from beneath a sheltered pavilion, or stroll up the nearby path to catch even better low-profile panoramic views from the Jemez to the Cerrillos Hills—and beyond.

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