FOOD

Santa Fe Bite

Now generous in dinosaur kitsch along with diner deco, Santa Fe Bite reopened not so long ago for a second time in a massive space, and Santa Fe didn’t have trouble finding Bonnie and John Eckre.

We went on a mission for Sunday fried chicken and learned something new: The veggie burgers are killing it. Yes, they come to the table with a color scheme resembling something between deep blood and magenta, but that’s because they’re made from beets. This house recipe with brown rice, black beans and oat bran is packed with flavor and comes with quinoa salad if you’re a health nut and chips if you’re not ($12.25).

Also, if you’re not, check out that chicken. Served only on the first day of the week, it’s free range, with a home-skillet vibe fried in thin breading that’s greasy in a good way, and served with a scoop of mashed potatoes and veggie medley ($15.50). Saturday night’s rib special draws a similar following.

You might get the impression by now that the menu is huge. We also dig on the tacos, steaks and salads, but come on—it’s really the burgers that keep the lights on. We highly recommend the green chile cheeseburger ($13.75 for a 10-oz. version, though it comes in a filling 6-oz. size as well).

Are milkshakes made with Blue Bunny ice cream a side dish or a dessert? A drink? All of the above? They come in five flavors: chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, espresso and mocha ($7-$7.75). Just stop asking questions and pick one. (Julie Ann Grimm)

1616 St. Michael’s Drive, 428-0328 Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday santafebite.com

JOY GODFREY

Land of Enchantment.

It used to be hard to choose the best North Indian food in Santa Fe. India Palace set the standard downtown, Paddy Rawal’s Raaga thrummed on Agua Fría, and India House delighted the Cerrillos Road crowd. Then, one changed hands, one closed (though Rawal has reopened a to-go version of Raaga) and India House was left to fend for itself. Instead of taking shell-shocked newcomers for granted, though, the eatery upped its game.

The food has always been good, but chef Kewal Singh Dhindsa and company have revamped the interior, creating a more elegant experience. Service is nearly impeccable. If there’s something to be done, someone will do it—likely smiling.

The chai is savory with a crisp finish. Paratha and naan arrive piping hot and delicious and in several varieties ($2.95-$4.95). Vegetarians have long adored India House, and the aloo gobi ($12.95) manages to coax flavor from not just cauliflower, but the potatoes as well. Paneerbased dishes deliver tender chunks of cheese with the familiar tang of makhani, the sweetness of navratan korma (both $14.95) or the richness of saag paneer ($13.95).

The tandoor clay oven turns out kebabs and other spiced meats and seafood. Dessert, if you can manage it, is highlighted by sweet puddings and custards, with mango and saffron making for two wise choices ($5.95). (Matt Grubs)

2501 Cerrillos Road, 471-2651 Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday indiahousenm.com

JOY GODFREY

Café Castro

The epitome of the neighborhood New Mexican spot, Café Castro called Midtown home before it was cool. Decades later, it remains a go-to for residents from across town, and its no-frills ambiance coupled with some of the most noteworthy chile in town do not disappoint.

We snuck our lunchtime meal in between errands, starting with chips and creamy guac plus a pint of Santa Fe Brewing Co.’s Pepe Loco ($3.50), a Mexicanstyle beer that’s refreshing and delicious no matter the time of day. It paired well with red chile chicken enchiladas ($10.99), stuffed with more than enough cheese and smothered with enough chile left over to sop up with a fresh sopaipilla—over-easy egg on top, of course. Café Castro serves breakfast items all day as well, and a breakfast burrito smothered Christmas ($8.99, and that’s red and green chile both for our outof-town friends) provided a satisfying protein boost midday. The green chile was bright and spicy, but plenty flavorful, while the rich, earthy red leaned into its own thick body just right.

Our server even recognized us, making the whole thing feel homey, and when the check came, it was almost hard to believe something so good could be so affordable. (Alex De Vore)

2811 Cerrillos Road, 473-5800 Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday cafecastro.net

Looking for something in your nieghborhood or near your next outing? Check out SFR’s brand new 2021 Restaurant Directory online. sfreporter.com/food