OAXACA OBSESSED

Oaxaca has been on my list of travel destinations for some time now. I can’t help but daydream about its colorful buildings, authentic markets and, most importantly, flavorful food. So, with the recent opening of Flor De Maiz on the waterfront, I knew I had to go get a taste of Oaxacan cuisine. Photographed by Silas Fallstich Written by Kim Hashemi

I meet a friend at 4:30 p.m. to embark on our culinary voyage through Oaxaca. Entering the restaurant, my eyes light up to Mexican inspired interiors, a wall adorned with wicker hangings and the open kitchen where fresh tortillas are being made. There’s a sprinkling of sofa seating by the floor-to-ceiling windows, as well as bar seating, and while there is no wrong choice, we opt for the patio with views of the harbor as the sky paints itself pink and orange hues.

To start: cocktails. I have the Mitla— Mezcal, Jarabe Natural, house-made orange and chipotle marmalade, freshly squeezed lime juice, and sea salt. With every sip comes exhilarating notes of citrus and sweetness. My friend has the Oaxaca which is created with Mezcal Espadin, house-made mole mix, fresh squeezed lime juice, orange juice, and orange bitters.

As we marvel at the sunset, our server sets down a range of appetizers. A variety of mole sauces, guacamole, and Ceviche De Pulpo brighten up the table. We cheers to friendship and then our appetizers begin their flirtatious dance. I scoop into the fresh guacamole with a tortilla chip and flavors of serrano pepper, cilantro and onion whirl in my mouth.

The Ceviche De Pulpo is a showstopper in its presence alone. Served in a Thai coconut and with yums potato chips on the side for some added texture, the dish features sliced octopus, red onions, grilled pineapple, fresh coconut, cilantro, and serrano pepper. I can’t help but be awed by the fact that the presentation has been elevated by something as simple as a coconut. The appetizer is both sweet and savory and plays an interesting symphony on the palate. This is not just a dish, it’s a fiesta for your taste buds.

I then dip into my first mole experience with my trusted tortilla chip. It quickly reaffirms that my taste buds are a fan of Oaxacan cuisine. I try the mole negro which is used to top chicken dishes, mole almendrado which appears in many beef dishes, the mole verde which takes the stage in fish dishes, mole amarillito, and mole coloradito. I make a second round to the mole verde, which I could eat an entire bowl of…as soup, perhaps?

From the ‘Placeres De La Casa’ section of the menu comes Enchiladas Oaxaca and Enchiladas En Salsa Verde. The Enchiladas En Salsa Verde feature chicken, melted cheese, green sauce, onions, Mexican sour cream, and cotija cheese. Crafted with similar ingredients, Enchiladas Oaxaca is served alongside a mole negro dressing. The mole negro brings a chocolatey richness to the dish, an indulgence that takes it far beyond a typical enchilada. After the final bite, we use our remaining tortilla chips to savor every bit of the mole until the plate is clean.

To celebrate my new found love for mole verde, I order Mole Verde Con Mahi Mahi. The fish, cooked to perfection and drenched in mole verde, melts in my mouth, and the accompanying carrots and mashed cauliflower incorporate some drama into the dish. Add my complementing Mitla cocktail and it’s a match made in heaven.

As we savor the last sips of our cocktails, dessert arrives. The cheesecake and flan with a tart strawberry glaze are so good that conversation stops for three minutes as we indulge.

With interiors adorned in Mexican decor and dishes crafted with ingredients directly from Oaxaca, you feel and taste as if you’ve been transported to the region. I’m now fully convinced that I need to make the trip. Until then, I’ll be a frequent customer at Flor De Maiz. *