A MAGICAL ESCAPE

BY NORA HESTON TARTE

The mountains in Yosemite National Park stretch high above the clouds, kissing the skies while creating iconic and overwhelming landscapes the rest of the world can’t duplicate. The granite cliffs of Half Dome are only part of the park’s picturesque beauty, which also features ancient sequoia trees and abundant waterfalls. 2020 marked Yosemite National Park’s 130th anniversary, but with not many welcomed to visit during the shut downs and travel hushed, 2021 has become the year to celebrate this landmark and its rich history.

The biggest question before stepping foot into Yosemite National Park is where to hike. Each season brings its own specialties, and in October you’ll be scrambling to find the best views available for the season. It may be a bit late to tackle some of the biggest hikes, but it’s also a good time for enjoying the park when it isn’t scorching hot either.

Our top pick for an October visit is Vernal Fall. This challenging hike offers several stopping points so those of all skill levels can make it their own—1.6 miles roundtrip takes you to the base of the falls where a nearly ever-present rainbow transports hikers to a faraway paradise while a 2.4-mile roundtrip that includes a strenuous rock staircase will get you to the top of the waterfall, which is still flowing into fall unlike most in the park that have dried up. For those really itching to go the distance, a 5.4-mile roundtrip hike will get you all of the way to Nevada Fall. For those who have considered hiking the infamous half dome, this is a good warm up for the trip as it takes the same route in the beginning to get there so you’ll have an idea what you’re in for if you decide to go the distance one day. It also offers

Many choose springtime to visit Yosemite Valley, but the truth is, October is one of the best months to visit the National Park. Some of the waterfalls have dried up come October, but aside from that October offers milder weather, smaller crowds, and most of the trails remain open so you have plenty of choices on where to hike. Coming before 2022 also has its perks, as the Evergreen Lodge is celebrating its centennial event throughout 2021.

spectacular views of the park in several places, including at the top of the falls where visitors like to stretch out and relax before starting the grueling descent down those oversized stone steps.

Other hikes that don’t lose their magic in fall are Mirror Lake, a 2-mile roundtrip with views of Mt. Watkins and Half Dome that dries up in the summer and is jokingly referred to as Mirror Meadow until spring and Valley Loop Trail, an 11 mile stretch that offers a good sampling of Yosemite as you pass Lower Yosemite Fall, Three Brothers, and El Capitan. To take in the sequoia trees in fall, opt for the 2.5-mile paved Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias while Sentinel Dome and Taft Point burst with fall colors this time of year or walk through the Mariposa Grove, the largest collection of sequoia trees inside of the park and boasting two of the largest in the world.

Evergreen Lodge

There can be a lot of confusion surrounding where to stay when visiting the national park because Yosemite has several entrance points. Where you stay will dictate how you enter, but it’s also important to take note of how far some lodging is from any park entrance (especially if entrances are closed due to weather, construction, or for other reasons).

Mariposa is a top choice when it comes to outside-of-the-park lodging. Just about 30 minutes from a park entrance, it’s easy for navigating your way around the valley and offers some charms of its own. Nearby,

Mountain Resort offers the surroundings you’d likely expect from a Yosemite vacation. You get to enjoy the outdoor ambiance without roughing it, instead staying in wellappointed cabins with electricity and running water. Plus the onsite restaurant, June Bug Café, brings in visitors from all over with its homecooked meals served in a mess hall environment. 6979A CA-140, Midpines

Through another entrance you’ll be able to access Yosemite National Park even faster when staying at the Evergreen Lodge. Located up a windy road, the Evergreen Lodge feels like summer camp for families or couples. In addition to cozy cabins, there is a

Evergreen Lodge

game room, outdoor gathering areas, full restaurant, and pool/ hot tub. On-site you can play pool and shuffleboard and kids can enjoy with a collection of available toys. There is even a nightly s’mores hour hosted by the lodge.

If you stay at Evergreen Lodge, don’t miss the chance to eat at the Tavern. The facility stays open late, and while you can eat inside, we recommend grabbing a seat on a picnic table or sitting underneath the covered patio. The Fried Cauliflower & Brussels Sprout makes you feel like you’re eating something very healthy, but the flavor doesn’t lack, accompanied by a Humboldt Fog goat cheese and lime gremolata. Here, we couldn’t skip the Grilled Scottish Salmon (which is gluten free) served with grilled kale and a watermelon radish sunchoke salad. And you shouldn’t leave without diving into dessert: think Flourless Chocolate Torte served with a raspberry coulis and mint or an Uptown New York Cheesecake with caramel sauce and fresh berries. To celebrate the centennial, Evergreen Lodge has added some activities, as well. Not only can you take a guided tour around the property to learn the history of how it evolved from a small gas station to a full-fledged resort in 100 years, but for the rest of 2021, the tavern will serve a secret

Rush Creek Lodge and Spa

menu of speakeasy cocktails at the bar—but you have to figure out the password first. 33160 Evergreen Rd,. Groveland If you have your sights set on luxury, the same San Franciscobased owners of Evergreen Lodge own Rush Creek Lodge and Spa at Yosemite down the road. The opulent hotel in Groveland shares a lot in common with Evergreen but has its own spin. There is an on-site pool and store, like Evergreen, but the spa is what sets this hotel apart. The previous spa was completely reimagined, and not a single detail wasn’t intentional. The space uses natural materials that mimic the park as well as features that ignite all five of the senses. Slip into a warm hot tub where you can dunk your head underneath an ever-flowing waterfall, a cool mist room feels eerily similar to hiking Vernal Fall above the clouds, and an innovative sensory room uses sound to calm your inner voice. You can even bury yourself in warm rocks outside of the hot tub. The indoor/outdoor space also features both a wet and dry sauna and heated granite chairs, making this easily the most intentional and exceptional spa we’ve ever visited. Enjoy the facility or book a treatment in one of the rooms. And before you leave, create your own scent at the aromatherapy bar, concocted to match your individual needs. 34001 CA-120, Groveland

When you’re not soaking in the elements at your hotel or stretching your legs inside of the park, Mariposa offers a lot of activities to fill your time. After all, post hike what sounds better than a glass of local wine served by a Yosemite expert? We recommend stopping by Butterfly Creek Winery. The wines are delicious and affordable, with several varietals available to taste, but the real treat is when the owner is in to pour and captivate guests with his stories of Yosemite National Park. He is certainly an expert guide who can tell you where to go, how to beat the crowds, and even what off-trail treks

Yosemite Bug Rustic Mountain Resort

to take. After you’ve chosen your favorite wines, buy a bottle to enjoy on the property. There are several tables and chairs including those overlooking the creek and winery dogs roam free. 4063 Triangle Rd,. Mariposa

If you want to continue drinking, sneak away to nearby Sierra Cider. The rustic cider mill enjoys the tagline “Campfire Champagne,” showing off the fun juxtaposition of the beverage’s classy, bubbly nature and its laidback application. Rows and rows of apple trees—with more than 800 in all—make for a robust orchard with many flavors, and the L.A.-transplant owners, David and Dana, who relocated to Mariposa for a simpler life giddily tell you what makes each flavor stand out from the next with two rescued farm dogs in tow. During the month of October, the property transforms into the Tortured Orchard, so instead of just tasting, you can indulge in a bigger—and spookier— experience. During a regular tasting, the couple sets up seating areas complete with

MIKE ALT D

• U-Pick Apples, Fridays-Sundays, throughout October • The Tortured Orchard Movie Mash, Oct. 1, 8, 15, 22. Movie nights paired with ciders and wine • The Raveyard at Sierra Cider’s Tortured Orchard, Oct. 23 21+ Dance party with local DJ

• Sierra Cider’s Tortured Orchard Tricks & Treats, Oct. 29-31 Mazes, ghost stories, treats, and scares

Butterfly Creek Mariposa

outdoor games like giant Jenga and cornhole so you can play as you learn the ins and outs of making apple cider (where the secret ingredient really is the apples). Currently there are four flavors to taste by appointment only (unless you come for an event). 5569 Meadow Ln., Mariposa

If you’re more of a beer person,

(also in Mariposa) serves its beers alongside a menu of meat-heavy entrees such as hand-cut steaks, burgers, and fried chicken. The vintage, rustic décor lives up to the experience, but the food elevates it beyond what most outsiders would expect. 5114 Yosemite All-Year Hwy, Mariposa

If you’re more interested in learning the local history than sipping your way through Mariposa, we recommend stopping off at the Old Jailhouse or the Mariposa

(named the best small museum west of the Mississippi River by the Smithsonian).

RESTAURANTS | WINE | DRINKS | SWEETSwine dine 209

BY NORA HESTON TARTE / D DAN HOOD

Mexico City is New York without the skyscrapers; an urban mecca bursting with vibrant culture and delectable cuisine. It’s also Cuauhtémoc (Cuate) Rivera’s hometown—owner and head chef of Don Luis’ Mexican Restaurant—and the inspiration behind his newest venture, El Chilango Chido, which translates to “the cool city boy,” in Spanish.

Growing up in Mexico City, Cuate became accustomed to street food, especially tacos de guisado, full meals wrapped up in tortillas to become portable, on-the-go fare for busy urban dwellers when time didn’t allow for a homecooked meal. More than your typical street taco, topped with carne asade or pollo and drizzled with sauce, cilantro, and onion, these truly authentic creations pay homage to the Mexico City roots Cuate is proud of, and satisfies the cravings of local customers who have no idea what hit them. “Every busy corner has at least a couple street stands in Mexico City,” Cuate says. “And tacos de guisado are one of the most popular types of taco stands.”

The menu at El Chilango Chido—located on Stockton’s Miracle Mile— reads like a menu from a traditional fonda or puesto, serving combinations of corn tortillas, mole sauces, marinated meats, and more. Most are served as street tacos, easy to wrap up and enjoy for a quick lunch, but not short on flavor. While the meal is easy to eat, it takes a long time and a lot of technique to perfect. Cuate hires cooks with knowledge about Mexican cooking and then trains them using his favorite techniques to turn out quality food as economically as possible, which often means cutting time without cutting corners.

Now hungry Stocktonians (and those from other corners of San Joaquin County) can indulge for lunch, biting into some of Cuate’s favorites, including tacos de costilla (ribs cooked in a morita and tomatillo sauce), taco de chicharron prensado (slow-cooked pork, sauteed and cooked with guajillo chiles), and taco de mole verde (chicken with pumpkin seed mole and tomatillos). In the future, the classically trained chef plans to add dinner to the menu, as well, but that hinges largely on finding the and training the staff to support dinner service.

Dining in, the Costilla is a favorite—a slightly spicy and over-sized bone-in rib served alongside Spanish white rice and customer’s choice of beans or potatoes. The braised baby back ribs get their flavor from the morita chile it’s marinated in, letting off a little spice without sending sensitive eaters running. Peel the tender meat off of the bone and load it into a tortilla using the other sides to finish it off. Rajas and Crema is another

lunch special that won’t disappoint, combining roasted poblano chiles with corn and crema and the option to add rice or beans, resulting in a soft and savory combination of flavors that almost feels like dessert despite its lack of sweet ingredients. El Chilango Chido may be known for their tacos de guisado but a list of soups—menudo, pozole, and chicken—that you may be familiar with from Don Luis—and burritos (asada, suadero, chicken, al pastor, chilango birria, carnitas, longaniza, fried fish, and veggie) are also available at the counter-serve eatery. To round out the menu, appetizers such as asada fries, quesadillas, empanadas, and tamales are available and before lunch, an American-style breakfast brings customers in along with a traditional breakfast burrito. Regardless of what you are craving, Cuate’s traditional Mexico City fare will have you rethinking everything you thought about tacos, including what your favorites are. Even with little customer knowledge of the ingredients or what is on the menu, staff can point you in the right direction of something savory to satisfy "Growing up in Mexico City, Cuate became your appetite before sending you begging for more, despite how full you are. Order to go or take a seat on a table inside accustomed to street or out. The outdoor patio offers views of the food, especially tacos bustling city life in Stockton so you can pretend de guisado, full meals you are enjoying your tacos de guisado much as the locals do in Mexico City. wrapped up in tortillas to become portable, on-the-go fare."