Mughal Serai Doraha, Punjab
Index ➢ General Description ➢ Historic & Archaeological Data Capture ➢ Historic Records ➢ Archaeological Findings ➢ Past Drawings with Architectural Description ➢ Multimedia
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General Description Name: Mughal Serai Location: Doraha, Ludhiana District, Punjab Access: 21km from Ludhiana Bus Stand, 295km from Delhi Orientation: North facing Landmarks: Doraha Public School, Baba Beri Sahib, Doraha
Ownership: Department of Archaeology Building use: Serai previously, Tourist/Recreational place now Construction: 1611-1627 A.D. (16 years) Site surroundings: Residential area, GT Road - N, NE, E; Ludhiana Bypass Road, Sidhwan Canal- SE, Agricultural Land- S, SW, W, NW The Site
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Historic & Archaeological Data Capture Mughal Serai, Doraha or Doraha Sarai is located at Doraha in Ludhiana District. Its popularly known as 'Mughal Caravan Serai’. This is often confused with this place as RDB fort (Serai Lashkari Khan). RDB fort, the fort shown in movie Rang De Basanti, is situated at 8-9 km distance from this.
RDB Fort
Source: https://en.bharatpedia.org.in/wiki/Mughal_Serai,_Doraha
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Doraha Serai was built as Mughal caravan serais for supporting Mughal caravans, by the Mughal ruler Jahangir. Once an example of fine Mughal architecture, this historical serai is in a dilapidated condition due to indifferent attitude of the government. 5
Source: https://en.bharatpedia.org.in/wiki/Mughal_Serai,_Doraha
Historic Records Glazed tile decoration on the southern gateway
Date of Erection of the Sarai There is no inscription on the sarai. The only clue to the date of its erection is provided by the type of its glazed tile decoration. The design was first formed by ridges of bricks or plaster in this mode of glazed tile work. Then, the spaces were filled up with glazed tiles of various colours. This type of work was prevalent upto Jahangir's reign, i.e. 1627 A.D. Moreover, the colour scheme of the tiles was limited to light and deep blue, green, yellow and white and designs were mostly geometrical upto this period. During Shah Jahan's reign and later too, glazed tile decoration displays a richer palette and foliated and floral patterns. The intervening ridges also disappear.
Glazed tile decoration
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Glazed tile decoration similar to that on the Doraha Sarai appears on the tomb of Ustad at Nakodar (District Jalandhar, Punjab), dated 1612 A.D. Therefore, this sarai might presumably have been erected before 1627 A.D. So the date of erection of the Doraha Sarai, most probably, lies somewhere between 1611 and 1627 A.D.
Glazed tile decoration on the tomb of Ustad at A design executed in off-color bricks in the spandrel of the Nakodar façade of a room on the southern side Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Archaeological Findings The Serais were built to support the traveling traders and their animals during the Mughal Period of Jahangir, circa 16th century. Mughal Caravan Serai and the Serai Lashkari were positioned on the Grand Trunk Road, a critical trade route. Serais are fortified settlements around a courtyard and include rooms, corridors, wells, a hammam (or bathing area), and a mosque. Their arched and vaulted gateways were often decorated with geometricized floral designs.
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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A closer examination reveals how deplorable the condition of the sarai is. We have before us a large walled-in enclosure of which the western half is in utter ruins. Only the corner bastions and the mosque of this portion are extant. The eastern half of the sarai is also in a precarious condition. A general view of the western half of the sarai
The local people have been freely taking away bricks for their private buildings from this sarai for many years. Dozens of the neighboring houses have been constructed with the bricks taken away from this sarai. Two additional bastions in the western wall testify to the inherent weakness of the wall. After partition, some refugee families appropriated the sarai for their permanent residence. However, these families were extruded by the Punjab Government in early 1970's and the sarai declared a protected monument.
Deplorable condition- Crumbling rooms
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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02 stacks of header bond
This is the main entrance to the serai. The entire monument is built up of thin brick blocks.
09 stacks of stretcher bond
02 stacks of header bond
09 stacks of stretcher bond
02 stacks of header bond
09 stacks of stretcher bond
Along the boundary wall, these are set in altogether a different kind of brick masonry bond.
7/29/20XX
Employee orientation
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Each of the northern and the southern sides is pierced by an imposing gateway. Each gateway measures 31 m from east to west and 14.2 m from north to south. It rises in two storeys to a height of 11 m. The bastions at the corners of the façade and battlements rise even higher.
Southern gateway
Northern gateway
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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It appears that a similar chhajja was projected on either side of the entrance on the inner side also. One such chhajja can still be seen on the inner side of the southern gateway. The rest three chhajjas might have crumbled and the walls repaired later on. In the interior of each gateway there is a 0.95 m. high, 4.4 m. broad and 2.1 m. deep recess on either side. 2.1 m
0.95 m
4.4 m
On the façade, a big recessed arch contains the smaller opening arch which is 4.3 m. wide. The whole is framed with glazed tile decoration. On either side of the entrance are two arched recesses, one above the other. An elegant semi-hexagonal chhajja 'overhanging cornice' is projected over each lower recess. Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
The chhajja projected over left lower recess of the northern gateway 12
The brick work in the ceiling of the northern gateway, though not intended to be naked, is interesting. On the ground floor, each of the gateways accommodates three rooms of different shapes on either side.
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Brick work in the ceiling of the northern gateway
Decoration Four forms of decoration have been used in this sarai. The richest decoration appears on the gateways. Geometric floral glazed tile pattern on the facade of the gateway: The border of the pattern framing the entrance arch is formed by a repeating swastika motif. Blue and yellow tiles have been used for this pattern in the lower portion whereas white tiles replace the yellow ones in the upper part. The main pattern in the frame is formed by repeating ten petalled, stylized flowers, executed in yellow, and light and deep blue tiles. Light blue tiles in the lower part have been inlaid with yellow dots.
7/29/20XX
Employee orientation Source: https://issuu.com/kiratpandher/docs/thesis_book_isuu_2
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Glazed tile decoration on the spandrel of the left hand upper arched recess of the southern gateway
A geometrical design of stars formed by white and light blue tiles adorns the spandrels of the upper recesses of this gateway. A design of intersecting octagons embellishes the chhajja over the lower recesses. Yellow, and light and deep blue tiles have been used here. A similar decoration appears on the northern gateway, but for minor variations. Green tiles have been used instead of white ones here. The light and deep blue tiles of the main pattern have been inlaid with yellow dots.
Glazed tile decoration on the chhajja over left hand lower arched recess of the southern gateway Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Evidence of Subsequent Repairs It appears from extant portion of the sarai that many parts of the sarai had crumbled at some later date. This ruin might have been affected by an earthquake. Perhaps, the corner towers on the inner sides of the gateways (still extant on one side of the southern gateway) also came down at this time. However, the damaged portion had been repaired subsequently when mud instead of chunam 'lime plaster' was used in some parts. The plain walls of the three crumbled chhajjas of the inner sides of the gateways also stand evidence to the fact. Then, there is an off-color brick parapet line which runs around the enclosure wall as well as on the top of the rooms inside. The absence of this brick-course in many parts of the enclosing wall lends strength to the above thesis.
Southern gateway- inner side Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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The sarai is a 168 m. sq. enclosure with a central courtyard with two gateways on the north and south, arcades and rooms on the four edges, mosque in the middle, wells, and hammam (or bathing area) in one corner and surrounded with battlemented walls, having an octagonal bastion at each corner. Each side of the bastions measures 2.5 m. In the centre of the eastern and the western sides, a semioctagonal bastion provides additional strength to the wall. The western wall has been further strengthened with two more bastions.
Past Drawings with Architectural Description
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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The northern and the southern sides had 26 rooms each whereas the eastern and the western sides had 30 rooms each besides a set of three rooms in the middle. Each room measures 3.2 m. square with a 2.7 m. deep verandah. These rooms were meant for ordinary travelers whereas the central sets might have been reserved for the emperor or the travelers of rank. Each set comprises a big room, 4.8 m. square, having a deep rectangular recess in each wall. Each recess in the side walls leads to a smaller room, measuring 2.1 by 3.8 m. The central room is provided with a ventilator in the back wall. Two staircases, one on either side of the entrance of the central room, approach the roof.
Rooms for ordinary travelers- Eastern side Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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The gateway is axially symmetrical on both the 1st and 2nd Level
The largest room measures 8.5 by 2.9 m., with a 2.7 m. deep verandah. A 1.1 m. broad staircase, on either side of the entrance, leads to the upper storey. On this floor also, there are three rooms on each side. The largest one measures 8.2 by 3.2 m. It is connected to the room on the other side with a gallery.
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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A view of an imposing central gateway with arched openings and recessions framed by bastions rising from the corners
Northern gateway- inner side 7/29/20XX
Employee orientation Source: https://issuu.com/kiratpandher/docs/thesis_book_isuu_2
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The plan indicates the relationship of solid to void in the masonry foundations of the hammam (or bathing area). The northeast corner of the sarai has a complex arrangement of rooms. It is a hammam. In plan, it is very close to Turkish Sultana's Hammam at Fatehpur Sikri, Agra. The access to the interior of the hammam is through a barrel-vaulted corridor A which leads to a rectangular compartment B, measuring 3 by 3.4 m. Through an arched opening in its facing wall we enter an octagonal room C, of 2 m. side.
Plan of Hammam
It has an octagonal platform in the middle. This room might have served as a reception room where a bather could repose, awaiting his turn. An opening in the northeast wall of the former room B leads to a spacious octagonal room D, of 2.7 m. side. This room has an hexagonal room E, of 2 m. side to its left. Perhaps, it was an Apodyterium where the bather undressed and left his clothes. An opening in the northern wall of room D leads to octagonal chamber F, through a long corridor M. Perhaps, this chamber served as latrine. An outlet from this chamber opens to the north, outside the sarai. Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Room D might have been the sudatorium or the steam room. Two terracotta pipes, travelling through the thickness of the walls of the hammam, open into this room in recesses N and O. This room is also connected to a rectangular room G, measuring 2.8 by 5.6 m. Room G has a side wing, measuring 1.7 by 2.6 m., having a tank L. The facing wall of room G has two very dark chambers J and K and a raised section H. One drain from H leads along the wall to the tank L and another outlet from H opens into room G. One pipe from tank L, which could vacate it as and when required, opens into the courtyard of the sarai. Room G appears to have been the actual bath room.
Plan of Hammam
Portion H is also connected with pipes in the wall to room I which served as operating room from where the mechanics of the hammam operated. Terracotta pipes which conducted water or steam from room to room have been systematically embedded in masonry. All the rooms are covered with domical vaults. Rooms B, C, D, E, G and H, each has an octagonal aperture in its ceiling for light and ventilation. These apertures were, perhaps, covered with cowls. Graceful painted designs adorned the ceilings of the rooms B, C, D and E. Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Painted stylized design on the ceiling of one of the rooms of the hammam
The ceilings of the rooms B, C, D and E of the hammam have been painted with stylized designs. Colour palette is limited to Indian red and viridian. The interior of the northern gateway too, had painted decoration, traces of which are still extant. The crudely painted human and animal figures on the interior and the exterior of the southern gateway are of a later date and were executed probably by the people who inhabited the sarai for a long time after partition. Stalactites, molded in plaster, fill up the soffits of the arched recesses on the façades of the gateways. The fourth form of decoration appears in the spandrels of the room for travelers In each spandrel, there is a simple design formed with off-color bricks.
Painted human figures inside the southern gateway
Stalactites on the soffit left hand upper arched recess of the northern gateway
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Each upper room is covered with a dome, surmounted with an inverted flower molding which terminated into a sandstone finial, still extant on the northeast bastion. The dome is separated from the bastion by a molding and a band of red colour. Traces of the painted decorations are still in a state of decay. The working of such Mughal hammams has not hitherto been ascertained conclusively. Every corner of the sarai, but for the one in the northeast, had a set of three rooms, one of which is still extant in the southeast corner. The central room is a 4.8 m. square having deep rectangular recesses in its side walls. One gallery in each side recess leads to a 3.1 m square chamber. The semi-octagonal recess in the back wall opens into an octagonal chamber of 1.3 m. side, occupying the interior of the octagonal bastion of the sarai enclosure. On the upper storey too, each bastion accommodates an octagonal room of 1.4 m side.
Sandstone finial on the dome of the eastern bastion of the sarai enclosure
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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A mosque has been a permanent feature of every Mughal sarai in India. Lodgers could say their prayers in it. In Doraha Sarai, the mosque is situated in its crumbled western half. The mosque is in a good condition but for its surrounding wall. A small gateway leads to the mosque enclosure which measures 15.6 by 22.4 m. The sanctuary which is 5.4 m. deep is covered with three domes, marking the interior division of the sanctuary. Adjoining the northern wall of the mosque, there is a singlestoreyed structure, now in ruins. It is a 6.4 m. square and comprises three rooms, perhaps, intended to be the residence of the mullah. The three wells in the courtyard supplied the much-needed water to the lodgers for various purposes.
Present Condition
The Mosque
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Old Histories During partition, Muslim population of the adjoining villages assembled in the sarai enclosure to escape massacre. People relate that the Maharaja of Patiala used canons to destroy the western part of the sarai to drag the Muslims out. But the author doubts any such activity on the part of the Maharaja because this very person had especially appointed his army at a Muslim shrine, Rauza Sharif at Sirhind, to protect it from the rioting masses. How can a man protecting the religious places of a community order the massacre of the same community? However, this much is certain that a large number of Muslims were butchered in this sarai by the rioters. The author interviewed two local residents, Mr. Chet Ram and S. Kultar Singh, aged 70 and 55 respectively. They told that only a small part of the enclosing wall was broken for that heinous act. The rest of the building was vandalized later on. People accelerated the process by taking away the bricks for building their houses.
Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/29756822?readnow=1&refreqid=excelsior%3A1811cdcf5913c8541c363ecf6e513107&seq=16
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Multimedia
11 meters
31 meters
Northern gateway- inner side 27
Northern gateway- midway 28
Northern gateway- inner side 29
Northern gateway- inner side 30
Northern gateway- staircase to upper storey 31
Northern gateway- upper storey 32
1.2 meters
Northern gateway- parapet arches 33
Dilapidated western side- a view from upper storey of northern gateway 34
R
A view of Doraha Sarai 35
The Mosque 36
The Well 37
Southern gateway- inner side 38
Southern gateway pointed arch 39
Southern gateway arch masonary 40
Approximately 5 meters
Eastern side rooms 41
Northern gateway- upper storey 42
Sanchi Goel (11811820) 43 Thank You