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SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

The New Rules of

JUNE 202 2

Takeout Elevate your to-go experience with tips on what to order and how to make it all taste just as good at home

A GUIDE TO TAKEOUT / T H E SU BUR BS

+ Welcome to the Suburbs San Antonio’s real estate market isn’t the only one that’s booming

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June FEATURES

T HE SAN A NTONI O GU I D E TO TAKEOU T FOOD

Eat local from the comfort of home, whether you’re craving pizza with fresh toppings, sushi or an upscale chef-driven dinner that can be enjoyed with wine and dessert.

E X PAN D I NG THE SE A RC H

A bustling real estate market has some looking outside of San Antonio for their next home. Find out why these six suburbs and nearby small(er) towns are worth considering the next time you move.

PHOTO BY DAVID MENDOZA

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JUNE 2022

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June D EPART M E N TS

16 CITY NEWS With increased food, rent and fuel costs, demand for assistance at the San Antonio Food Bank remains high, even as the pandemic fades. 1 8 H EALTH A pediatric dentist is out to make communicating easier for patients and medical providers who speak different languages. 20 PERSON O F INTEREST Advocating for equality is as important as ever, says the executive director of the San Antonio Pride Center.

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2 2 IN FLUEN CER Keep your skin hydrated while on the go courtesy of a new travel-focused skincare line developed by an Alamo City esthetician. 24 CULT UR E Partygoers are making up for lost time with over-the-top birthdays, weddings and quinceañeras. 26 M A KER A San Antonio jeweler’s latest custom collection was born out of pandemic loss.

2 8 T RAV E L Discover history and culture at Texas’ other missions on the El Paso Mission Trail.

EAT + DRINK 5 6 FO O D N EWS San Antonio garnered a record number of James Beard Award nominations this year. Has its culinary scene reached a new peak, or are outsiders simply taking notice of what locals have long known? 58 DISH This Gold Feather fried chicken sandwich doubles as brunch.

6 0 L I BAT I O N S The glasses are as unique as the cocktails at Hands Down bar. 6 2 S P OT L I G H T Dessert doesn’t have to be reserved for special occasions at BellaRo Cupcakery + Sweets. 63 T H E GU I DE Take a summer pizza tour with these 10 local options for pies.

FINAL THOUGHT 6 4 CO LU M N The pandemic forced the founder of San Antonio Charter Moms to reevaluate her kids’ needs and ultimately find them a new school.

ON THE COVER Barbaro’s Carbonara pizza is just one of several of the city’s top takeout dishes that photographer JoMando Cruz and food stylist Alicia Mendez captured in Mendez’s Magnolia Street studio.

PENDANT: ERIKA RAMIREZ; ILLUSTRATION: DRAWLAB19/SHUTTESRTOCK.COM

IN THE LOOP

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UP FRONT / EDITOR' S NOTEBOOK

ON THE WEB

do my best to meal plan or at least to figure out enough of what I’ll need to make dinners so that I can put in a curbside order at H-E-B over the weekend. Still, by the end of a deadline week, my ambitions for spaghetti squash casserole or kebabs on the grill can be easily sidetracked by the convenience of takeout. During the early months of the pandemic, Meadow Neighborhood Eatery + Bar offered a half-price burger special each Thursday that was such a great deal my husband and I almost felt guilty about taking advantage of it. The burger is made with quality Dean and Peeler beef and came with a generous helping of fries. With increasing costs, Meadow shifted the special late last year into a happy hour deal available when you dine in, but their ever-evolving menu still remains a great option for in-home date nights. Certainly, I hope to never again take for granted the luxury of being able to enjoy a great meal inside of a restaurant. But, with a 1-year-old who goes to sleep at the time most people are heading out to dinner, I’m also grateful that I can eat (and support) local from home sometimes, too. And I’m not alone. We’ve continued to hear from San Antonio eateries that takeout is still in high demand, even two years after dining rooms began reopening. Whether because people felt more comfortable eating at home amid COVID-19 or simply because they got used to the ease of carryout and delivery, the pandemic made it clear that takeout food no longer has to mean just pizza or drive-thru burgers. Food writer Edmund Tijerina details some of his favorite options in this month’s issue and shows that while there are plenty of superior local pizza options—from Barbaro to H-E-B’s South Flo—there are also ways to experience multi-course steakhouse meals, Sichuan noodle bowls or parrillada, all from the comfort of home. Check out his guide on page 34 and make plans to try something new this month. Tijerina even notes what’s best to order (and what to avoid) when transporting your food home. Which restaurants become your go-tos likely depends largely on where you live. We’ve traditionally featured some of San Antonio’s top-selling neighborhoods in one of our summer issues. This year, we heard from real estate agents that with low inventory and rising prices, nearly every neighborhood is hot right now. Along with requiring buyers to move quickly, that also means people (especially those who still work from home) are increasingly widening their search to include some of the suburbs and small towns around San Antonio. We take a look at six of them on page 46 and outline a few of the reasons they’re worth considering, whether you’re in the market to move or you’re simply looking for a new place to spend a Saturday afternoon. I call Northeast San Antonio home and along with Meadow, my favorites for carryout nearby have become the newest location of Julian’s Italian Pizzeria and Kin Thai + Sushi, where the zucchini paht Thai has just the right balance of spice and flavor. Let us know where your favorite spots for takeout are by tagging us @SanAntonioMag the next time you’re dining to-go.

The Immersive Van Gogh exhibition that was originally slated to open last year debuted at the end of May in the new Lighthouse ArtSpace on Burleson. Luca Longobardi, the composer for the show, chats with us at sanantoniomag. com/immersive-van-gogh about the importance of music in an immersive art experience.

ART HEIST A statue that was once owned by a Bavarian king and then looted during World War II is on display at the San Antonio Museum of Art through next spring after it was purchased by an antique dealer who spotted it on the floor at a Goodwill in Austin. Learn more about the piece and about how you can see it at SAMA before it’s returned to the German government in 2023 at sanantoniomag. com/roman-bust.

COMING UP NEXT MONTH Kathleen Petty Editor in Chief kpetty@sanantoniomag.com @kpettysamag

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Get a taste of all things BBQ, from how to smoke a brisket at home to where to pick up pulled pork and sides.

PETTY: JOSH HUSKIN; BUST: PORTRAIT OF A MAN, ROMAN MARBLE, LATE 1ST CENTURY BC-EARLY 1ST CENTURY AD, LENT BY THE BAVARIAN ADMINISTRATION OF STATE-OWNED PALACES, GARDENS AND LAKES

I M M E R S I V E AT LAST

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JUNE 2022 / VOLUME 17 / ISSUE 8 WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE SAN ANTONIO RESTAURANT FOR TAKEOUT AND YOUR GO-TO ORDER?

EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF

Kathleen Petty CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Inga Cotton, Becca Hensley, Jason P. Olivarri, Bonny Osterhage, Katherine Stinson, Edmund Tijerina

OP E N SKY ME DIA CEO

Todd P. Paul PRESIDENT

Stewart Ramser VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

James R. Smith

EDITORIAL INTERN

Emily Schmalstieg “Little Italy off of West Avenue. A large pepperoni pizza with a side order of calamari. Delizioso!”

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

“Curry Boys! Brisket and always add the housemade pickles.”

Rebecca Fontenot Cord

COPY EDITOR

Patsy Pelton

DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS

Hollis Boice

FACT CHECKER

Katherine Stinson

CIRCUL AT IO N AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR

A RT

Kerri Nolan

ART DIRECTOR

David G. Loyola

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Alicia Durham

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

JoMando Cruz, Josh Huskin, David Mendoza, Marty Morris, Louie Preciado, Erika Ramirez CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR

Vicente Martí

ACCO UN T IN G ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Sabina Jukovic EVE N TS EVENTS DIRECTOR

Lauren Sposetta

“Mama Margie’s! Margaritas, chips and queso, and, of course, fajitas!”

FOOD STYLIST

Alicia Mendez ADV ERTIS ING

CO NTACT US

210-268-1100 sanantoniomag.com

PUBLISHER

Kathie Anderson

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES

advertising@sanantoniomag.com

VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

James R. Smith

JOB & INTERNSHIP INQUIRIES

jobs@sanantoniomag.com

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Christina Olivarez

STORY IDEAS, LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

SALES OPERATIONS MANAGER

Kiely Whelan

editor@sanantoniomag.com BULK ORDERS

DIGITAL

info@sanantoniomag.com

DIGITAL MANAGERS

Rosie Ninesling, Abigail Stewart

SUBSCRIPTIONS, RENEWALS AND ADDRESS CHANGES

“The Station Cafe—a slice of pizza, side salad and chocolate chip cookie.”

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© Copyright: San Antonio Magazine is published by Open Sky Media, Inc. The entire document of San Antonio Magazine is © 2022 by Open Sky Media, Inc. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the express written permission of the publisher. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of ownership or management. Editorial or advertising does not constitute advice but is considered informative. San Antonio Magazine is locally operated.

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In the Loop I NSI D E / NEW L EVE L O F N EED p. 16 / EXUD IN G PRID E p. 20 / GET TH E PARTY STARTED p. 24

Piñata Time na Reyes and her four daughters spend more than a dozen hours molding, gluing, smoothing, painting and paper-machêing each of their carefully designed piñatas before they’re picked up by a customer and ultimately whacked into pieces by partygoers. The destruction of their works of art is not lost on the Reyes family, who opened Piñata Time nearly 10 years ago after moving to San Antonio from Mexico City. But Reyes and her sister, Monica Reyes, say it’s all part of the fun. The two ran a similar business in Mexico City and saw demand for handcrafted piñatas like theirs in San Antonio. They’ve since become known for their large recreations of Disney favorites, like Mirabel from Encanto and Elsa from Frozen, plus numerals, luchador masks, traditional donkeys and more. The Reyes women and their daughters started making smaller, personal-sized piñatas during the pandemic so families could celebrate alone at home. In the last year, they’ve returned to larger creations that have been requested for birthday parties, weddings, bachelorette shindigs, graduations, gender reveals and backyard barbecues. They’ve made piñatas for major San Antonio companies, including Toyota, Fiesta duchesses and hundreds of neighbors who live near their two stores. “Everyone needs a piñata,” Ana Reyes says. “And everybody is ready to party, especially after the pandemic.”—KATHLEEN PETTY instagram.com/pinatatimesa

PHOTO BY LOUIE PRECIADO

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JUNE 2022

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IN THE LOOP / CITY NEWS

San Antonio Food Bank braces for recordlevel need as rent, food and utility costs rise this summer BY KATHLEEN PETTY

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ric Cooper had been looking ahead to the close of the pandemic with guarded optimism. Over the last two years, the president and CEO of the San Antonio Food Bank led the effort to provide food to as many as 120,000 individuals in need each week and he was hopeful that 2022 might bring relief. Instead, as COVID-19 waned in the spring, San Antonians were met with higher bills for rent, fuel and food. When combined with federal SNAP (supplemental nutrition assistance program, formerly known as food stamps) benefits that expire in June for some plus the higher utility and childcare costs that always come with summer, Cooper worries this month could be the start of another surge in need. “Many of these trials could be even more significant than what we’ve just gone through,” he says. “It is incredibly sobering when you think about what we’ve experienced over the last 24 months.” Even without the war in Ukraine and supply chain issues that contribute to inflation, many San Antonians already were struggling. Census Bureau data released earlier this year found that San Antonio is the most impoverished major city in the U.S., with 14.2 percent of residents living in poverty annually from 2016 to 2020. Cooper says many San Antonio Food Bank clients are employed but can’t afford utilities, rent and food on their current wages, while others are seniors who may have to decide between paying for medication or food. It’s a balancing act that Connie Saucedo understands. Saucedo works

COURTESY SAN ANTONIO FOOD BANK

A Crisis Compounded

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more than full time hours as a certified nursing assistant in a nursing home while also caring for her disabled uncle and five nieces and nephews. She adopted the children, who now range in age from 6 to 12, over five years ago when they were removed from her sister’s care by Child Protective Services. She didn’t want them split up and placed in different homes. “I couldn’t do that to them,” she says. So, she’s figured out how to make it work financially, which at times has meant asking for help. Staff at the Food Bank assisted Saucedo in applying for SNAP benefits and they’ve also provided the family with holiday meals and other food when needed. “I’ve always been independent,” Saucedo says. “I’ll do this, I’ll do that, but everybody struggles.” Prior to the pandemic, the Food Bank was providing meals to around 58,000 people each week in San Antonio and the surrounding area. That doubled at the height of the pandemic but has since leveled out to around 90,000 each week. Cooper says many of the new faces they’ve seen are people like Saucedo, who have jobs and had never had to ask for help before. Some had lost hours or positions due to the pandemic, so as hiring ramped up in 2021, Cooper was hopeful positive change might be on the horizon. Indeed, there are more adults working in San Antonio now than there were before COVID-19, according to Workforce

FOOD BANK: COURTESY SAN ANTONIO FOOD BANK; FOOTBALL: DEAN BERTONCELJ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

"When people show up and need help, it’s (often) because their rent went up, and they can’t afford rent while still putting food on the table."

Solutions Alamo. That can be tough to believe with “now hiring” signs up at most restaurants, but Cooper says the data shows that people have simply moved fields. “Rather than a great resignation, it was a great reshuffling,” he says. “Many workers left their jobs to get jobs in other areas, some of which didn’t net more income but maybe offered more flexibility.” For many who were returning to the workforce or even those who made gains in income, the increased cost of living has far outpaced their paychecks. The median rent in San Antonio this spring was $1,222, up 15 percent from a year ago. “When people show up and need help, it’s (often) because their rent went up, and they can’t afford rent while still putting food on the table,” Cooper says. He adds that with higher living costs the divide between those who have plenty and those who are struggling is only increasing. Saucedo is fortunate to own her own home and says she picks up extra hours to help cover higher costs. Food Bank staff still call to check on her and she’s not afraid to ask for extra help if needed. “I’m so thankful for that,” she says. “I feel like they’ve become family.” Cooper says they’re grateful that with community support, they’ve been able to continue providing for San Antonians, even as the Food Bank itself grapples with higher costs for food and the fuel needed to distribute it. The continued hope, though, is that fewer people will need that lifeline. “Ultimately, the Food Bank would love to shorten our line,” Cooper says. “But, without meaningful employment that offers (equitable) wages, employee health care and personal time off, it’s just not foreseeable in our current wage environment with accelerating expenses. I worry we’ve just lost ground.” JUNE 2022

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Home-Away-FromHome Games / The San Antonio Spurs will likely play more “home” games away from the AT&T Center during the upcoming season as part of a pilot agreement with Bexar County. The team plans to host opponents in Mexico City, Monterrey and Austin in hopes of expanding their fan base. Return to the Small Screen / Isis Romero will debut as the main anchor on KENS 5’s evening newscasts this month. After a decade on air with KSAT, Romero’s contract was not renewed last year. Now, she says she is excited to have the opportunity to once again tell the city’s stories and to join the family at San Antonio’s CBS affiliate, where her husband, Phil Anaya, also anchors, on the weekend newscasts.

NFL Bound / Three San Antonians are headed to the NFL. JT Woods, a Steele High School grad, was picked in the third round by the L.A. Chargers. DeMarvin Leal, who attended and played at Judson High, was selected a short time later in the third round by the Pittsburgh Steelers. And Spencer Burford, a Wagner High School and UTSA alum, was drafted in the final round by the San Francisco 49ers.

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I N T H E L O O P / H E A LT H

Speaking Your Language SA dentist launches company to ease the stress of language barriers between physicians and patients s a pediatric dentist who sees patients at her private practice and at The Children’s Hospital of San Antonio, Dr. Jennifer Hole was used to relying on translation services. Hole’s parents immigrated from Nicaragua, and she is fluent in Spanish but she still found herself working with families who only spoke languages she didn’t, like Mandarin. In those instances, she either called a translation line and waited on hold, sometimes for hours, or she turned to Google translate, which was only accurate around half of the time when she started her career a decade ago. That has improved to about 80 percent, but when you’re discussing someone’s health, that’s simply not good enough, says Hole, a mother of two. “It’s incredibly frustrating,” she says. “It’s not an equitable system. It’s just not.” Hole enrolled in a master’s in technology commercialization program at the University of Texas in 2019 with the hope of learning how to turn an idea into a successful startup. She wasn’t quite sure what that idea would be just yet, but she knew there were plenty of things to improve in her field. While brainstorming for a group project with classmate Clay Holberg, the idea for Root Medical Translation was born.

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She, Holberg and a group of UT engineers have spent the last two years developing a peer-reviewed medical translation platform that provides on-demand, more accurate communication between doctors and patients. It’s being tested at Dell Medical in Austin and will launch through a pilot program in San Antonio this year. Already, the system has the ability to translate 91 languages text-to-text, and they are adding dozens of languages that it can translate speech-to-speech. To build up a lexicon of words the system is equipped to translate, the Root team started by having the program “listen” to medical lectures in dozens of languages. A team of doctors being recruited through an international online physician group then spends time reviewing the translation platform for accuracy. If the system comes across a word that it doesn’t know how to translate, it sends it to the backend for review by a doctor. Google, in contrast, is run through artificial intelligence and doctors often don’t know when the translation they’re reading is only partially accurate, Hole says. Hole now dedicates much of her time to Root, but she’ll always keep a small dental practice, in part, so that she knows what it’s like to use the platform in real-time. “It keeps me close to the purpose of Root,” she says. “I love advocating for people who don’t have a voice.”

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BY KATHLEEN PETTY

JUNE 2022

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IN THE LOOP / PERSON OF INTEREST

What is the state of the LGBTQ community in San Antonio? Looking at it from the local and national levels, San Antonio tends to be a more progressive city that is inclusive and compassionate. Still, the fact remains that across the nation, that isn’t always the case. Because of that, it creates an atmosphere where morale can be down, and people’s mental health, and the overall feeling of inclusivity, can be impacted. Although we don’t see much of it here in San Antonio, those feelings still resonate and affect our daily lives. Because San Antonio is more of a progressive city, our community members have opportunities to feel empowered to be their authentic selves at the local level. But what we do find here in San Antonio is that there are still many disparities out there, including access to health care—in particular, mental health services.

Advocating for Equality Robert Salcido Jr., a community leader and executive director of the Pride Center San Antonio, wants a world where all people can celebrate their authentic selves INTERVIEW BY EMILY SCHMALSTIEG

riginally from Amarillo, Robert Salcido Jr. has called San Antonio home for more than 20 years and has spent the last two decades working as a social justice advocate for LGBTQ+ communities. The executive director of the San Antonio Pride Center since 2015, Salcido says working for equality is as important as ever, as the last few years have brought new discrimination toward transgender youth and LGBTQ people. “As a queer person of color, I see firsthand the harms that result from discriminatory laws and lack of protection for LGBTQ people’s basic rights,” he says.

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JUNE 2022

FACT FILE

Active Advocate: Salcido has worked with Planned Parenthood, Boys & Girls Clubs of SA, Interdisciplinary Research Leaders, San Antonio LGBT Chamber of Commerce and Orgullo de San Antonio LULAC Education: West Texas A&M University; interdisciplinary research fellowship, University of Minnesota

What impact have the LGBTQ and trans communities seen since Ken Paxton’s directive to have the state investigate some gender-affirming care as child abuse? While it is not ingrained in law, that directive has come about from state officials in the form of opinions. What happens as a result is that doctors and medical providers are now reluctant to offer the necessary care that somebody needs to affirm their gender. It’s described (by some state officials) as being child abuse from both the parental perspective and the medical team’s perspective, and it’s quite the opposite. A family or doctor who affirms one’s gender does so with the utmost care for that child. It is happening because that child is experiencing either gender dysphoria or is having a different outlook on who they know themselves to be. It doesn’t fit neatly in the box of what sex they were assigned at birth. We have seen locally where some healthcare providers have paused gender affirming treatment to our youth. One of the things being stated by elected officials is that the altering of gender in today’s youth happens primarily through surgery. But in many cases, a parent offering affirming care is first allowing somebody to socially transition and go by the name and pronouns they feel most aligned with. Then, when we think about a medical transition for youth, most youth begin by receiving hormone blockers—a temporary halt to their hormones—before any type of surgery. ILLUSTRATION BY VICENTE MARTÍ

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Where do we stand as a society when it comes to LGBTQ and trans youth rights and acceptance? Right now, there is a lot of misinformation circulating out there, particularly by elected officials, which in turn misinforms communities who are not familiar with who trans folks are and demonizes them. It creates an environment where they can’t be their authentic selves for fear of being ridiculed and bullied and, in some instances, physically harmed. Texas has talked about working on a bill like Florida’s House Bill 1557, which supporters call the “Parental Rights in Education” bill and opponents refer to as the “Don’t Say Gay” bill. What would something like that mean for San Antonio? It creates an environment where LGBTQ individuals will likely remain closeted. We know that youth who are not authentic to themselves are disproportionately affected by depression, loneliness and anxiety. The types of environments that elected officials are creating could cause harm to youth, up to and including suicidal ideations. Unfortunately, they are creating environments under the guise of protecting our youth when, in fact, they are doing the opposite. How does the Pride Center serve the local community? At the Pride Center, we offer case management, individual counseling, family counseling and group therapy. Those are some of our most in-demand programs because the center provides free mental health services for folks who otherwise don’t often have access. In addition to the clinical services, we offer several different peer-to-peer support groups for the whole community. Then, we have some groups for trans men or transmasculine folks, we have one for transgender women and we even have a grief support group. We are always trying to determine what types of peer-to-peer groups we can offer to provide that additional layer of support behind the clinical side of things. What does Pride Month mean to you? To me, Pride Month is a month of celebration of being ourselves no matter what level of outness someone is experiencing. It’s an opportunity for people to embrace who they are, whether it’s just with themselves or with their friends and family. It gives us a chance to reflect on the history and our ancestors who have fought for where we are. How do you hope people celebrate Pride Month? The celebration is beautiful, and I think what folks should do is celebrate their authentic selves. What I will say is that those who are allied to our community or those who aren’t familiar with our community should be educating themselves as part of that celebration—learn about who we are as individuals, you know, understand that we are loving people who are your neighbors, who are your family members. We go to school with you, we go to church with you, we work alongside you. Really, the celebration is not just for June, but every day of the year. This interview has been edited for length and clarity. JUNE 2022

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IN THE LOOP / INFLUENCER

Skincare Obsessed The founder of Airo Skincare wants to help keep you hydrated while traveling BY KATHLEEN PETTY

f Daphne Chapman’s clients had neglected their regular skincare regimen while on a trip, she could tell. “They would come back with destroyed skin after using hotel soap,” she says. The Minnesota native who moved to San Antonio in 2016 for her husband’s job has worked as an esthetician for 25 years, training at the Minneapolis-based Aveda and spending months learning other skincare products as part of her work in places like Hiatus Spa + Retreat at Pearl and The Thompson San Antonio spa, where she practices now. “I’ve been obsessed with skincare since I was a teenager,” says Chapman. “At 18, I was spending my paychecks on skincare items.” In all of the skincare brands she’d used and learned about, though, she didn’t know of one she could specifically recommend for travel. So, she decided to fill the gap. In 2019, she created Airo Skincare, a line of plant-based products meant for travelers. Its signature offering, which was picked up by Hotel Emma’s Curio shop this year, is a TSAapproved travel pack that includes a toning mist, hydrating serum, restoring eye gel and lip treatment. Each product is focused on hydration since Chapman says both air travel and hotel products tend to leave skin dry. Chapman also has created a similar package that’s targeted toward beachgoers, and she recently launched a Jetsetter Recovery Mask that she says people can apply when they get back to their hotel room and leave on while they sleep. Through Students + Startups and the 80|20 Foundation, Airo Skincare was matched with a new graduate who starts her internship this month and will help Chapman with marketing and other tasks as the company grows. Chapman says when her family moved to San Antonio in the height of its summer heat, they didn’t see it as a place they would stay long-term, but while watching it grow, the mom of two fell in love with the city and the future it’s chasing. “I didn’t ever think I would be the one starting a business,” she says. “You don’t know where life will take you.”

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JUNE 2022

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I N T H E L O O P / C U LT U R E

San Antonians are making up for lost time due to COVID with over-the-top birthday parties, weddings and more BY BONNY OSTERHAGE

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COURTESY PARTY HAT CELEBRATIONS

Party Like it’s 2019!

an Antonio is ready to party, y’all! It’s been two years since the city famous for its 10-day Fiesta has been able to celebrate properly and the vibe even before Fiesta returned to its full glory this year has been to go big or go home. “It just feels like everything is bigger and people want that wow factor,” says Sara Stumberg Walker, owner of Sara Walker Events, who has seen clients include over-the-top elements in their recent events such as Cirque du Soleil– style aerialists and 3D holographs projected over swimming pools. “People are celebrating everything and looking for any excuse they can find to get together.” Like most event planners, Walker was hit hard by pandemic restrictions and lost the majority of her corporate and out-of-town clients in 2020. She began to see the tides turn in the fall of 2021 and now her calendar is fully booked through July and again in September and October. “It’s an exciting time to be in the industry again,” she says. Bloom+Stem owner Magen Sevilla agrees. Both she and Josie Patrick, owner of Party Hat Celebrations, noticed what she describes as a “huge” uptick in business as early as a year ago.

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COURTESY PARTY HAT CELEBRATIONS, BLOOM + STEM

San Antonians are partying on a grand scale after missing out on big events and milestones during the pandemic, whether by investing hundreds of dollars in balloon installations, designing custom centerpieces for weddings and toddler parties or creating elaborate backdrops meant for Instagram-worthy portraits.

“That’s when I began receiving requests for large flower orders for baby and toddler birthday parties,” Sevilla says, adding that people started spending wedding-sized budgets on children’s events. “We did a ‘disco hippo’ block party for a child where the entire street was shut down. There were streamers, balloon garlands, water bounce houses, cocktails, custom charcuterie, and of course plenty of blooms.” Patrick opened her custom balloon studio just as COVID hit and says while she had to get creative at the beginning with porch installations and dropoff helium bouquets, it’s business as usual—and then some—now. “By graduation of 2021, it felt like we had gone from 0 to 100 mph,” she says, explaining that many people were unable to celebrate important life events and milestones like a child’s first birthday, so they want to do something extra special now. The same goes for quinceañeras and sweet sixteens. Wedding planner (and former SAM staff member) Grace Gonzalez, owner of

Graceful Moments Weddings + Events, describes a recent sweet sixteen party that was twice as elaborate as any wedding celebration she’s been involved with. Along with a lavishly decorated ballroom at La Cantera Resort, the late-night party ended with the ballgown-wearing birthday girl being presented with a brand new car. “People are definitely over the drive-by birthdays,” says Gonzalez, who adds she’s seeing the same uptick in luxury details with her bridal clients. “People are excited to get out. They’ve been cooped up too long.” Lorena Luna, owner of Luna Nueva Choreography, which provides services for quinceañera and sweet 16 courts, says the “over the top” trend is here to stay, whether it means replacing the DJ with a live Tejano band, gifting Yeezys instead of traditional boots or building flower walls and candy carts for Instagram-worthy moments at the party. “I think this will become the new standard,” she says. “Every quinceañera or quinceañero wants the party that friends and family will talk about for years to come.” JUNE 2022

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IN THE LOOP / MAKER

Speaking to the Heart A pandemic tragedy serves as inspiration for a local jeweler’s latest meaningful collection BY BONNY OSTERHAGE

hen Erin McReynolds lost not just one but both of her parents to COVID within days of one another, the hospital presented her with an unusual keepsake: two glass vials containing tiny coils imprinted with the ECG readings of her parents’ final heartbeats. McReynolds planned to hang the printouts in her home, but thanks to local jewelry designer Lee Ann Jones, they now hang close to her heart in a sophisticated 14-karat gold pendant that features the heartbeats and a small ruby to symbolize her parents’ love. The process was so significant for Jones, who owns Lee Jones Collection, that it became the inspiration for her new line, “Bespoke.” Described as “an uplifting take on modern mourning jewelry,” the collection features custom pieces made from clients’ heirloom jewelry, stones or poignant souvenirs that Jones transforms from a reminder of loss into a celebration of life.

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JUNE 2022

“Jewelry is a way to tell a story, and typically we associate that with the beautiful things in life like births, anniversaries and weddings,” she says. “This commission made me realize the significance of memorializing the difficult things in life, too.” A practicing attorney for more than 20 years, Jones began designing well-crafted costume jewelry before focusing her efforts on fine jewelry design five years ago. “The goal is to have a piece you will enjoy and that will allow the memory to live on,” says Jones, adding that inherited jewelry is often left in a drawer because it is “dated” or not the recipient’s style. That goal was achieved for McReynolds, who says the pendant serves as a daily reminder of her parents. “My parents were such an integral part of my life and my anchor,” she says, her voice catching. “This necklace is grounding to me in a way because I feel like they are helping me move through my day.” PHOTO BY ERIKA RAMIREZ

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I N T H E L O O P / T R AV E L

Discover history and culture on El Paso’s Mission Trail

EL PASO

BY BECCA HENSLEY

ost San Antonians proudly take visitors to see the city’s landmark San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, the only UNESCO World Heritage site in Texas. But did you know that El Paso, some 500 miles away, has its own storied mission trail? Indeed, the first mission and settlement in El Paso, Ysleta, was being built a full century before the establishment of San Antonio’s Mission San José over 300 years ago. In El Paso, hundreds of Tigua and Piro people, as well Spaniards, fled to Texas from New Mexico in 1680 following a revolt against Spanish colonial rulers by Pueblo people. Today, the trail incorporates four centuries of history and a richness of culture that includes American, European and Mexican influences. Visit the stunning adobe architecture plus the stellar art and food scene that has developed around them. The trail also plays host to multiple festivals, concerts, artist talks and other experiences during the year. Here’s a look at what to know before you go.

Start with Art The El Paso Mission Trail stretches for 9 miles and includes Ysleta Mission, Socorro Mission and the Presidio Chapel of San Elizario. Begin first with a tour of the youngest mission, San Elizario

Go 550 miles west on I-10 Stay To channel El Paso’s vibrant midcentury vibe, look no further than The Plaza Hotel Pioneer Park, a glamorous, stunningly refurbished gem that’s located downtown. Elizabeth Taylor lived in the penthouse here during the filming of Giant in the 1950s. Her former quarters have become a swanky rooftop bar called La Perla. Friendly staff, sleek rooms and Ambar, an acclaimed, wood-fired Latin Mexican restaurant, combine to set this hotel apart. plaza hotelelpaso.com Eat For fine dining, try Elemi, helmed by Emiliano Marentes, a James Beard Award semifinalist. The sustainably focused kitchen sources heirloom varieties of native maiz, cooking and grinding it daily in their field-to-plate kitchen. Indulge in such specialties as taco campesino with shiitake mushroom and eggplant or taco pato al pastor with mesquite-grilled duck.

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(often called San Eli). Besides being a historical hot spot, the site that was established as a presidio by the Spanish in 1789 has become a veritable artists’ haven. Tour the mission as well as myriad galleries and artsy shops nearby that spotlight local work plus artists at work displaying their talents with live demonstrations. On the third Sunday of each month, San Eli hosts dozens of local artists’ displays as part of the El Paso Mission Art Trail Market. Plan for Brunch El Bandido Cantina & Restaurant at San Elizario is redolent with historical gravitas and boasts the only patio eatery on the Mission Trail. Also near the mission is the San Eli Super Market, which has a traditional market plus fresh aguas frescas, horchata and a lunch counter with carnitas, barbacoa and more. If sweets are more your style, visit the San Elizario Bakery for fruit-filled empanadas and authentic pan dulce. Look Up At the 17th century Socorro Mission look up to see the beautiful church’s lauded ceilings, interiors and painted beams. The mission (as well as the others) was largely rebuilt after an 1829 flood and the ceiling is held up by cottonwood and cypress beams that were salvaged from the original 18th century mission and then painted. Enroute to Socorro from San Eli, drive along Socorro Road, stopping to visit shops such as Las Misiones Arts & Crafts, which brims with objects from Mexico. Delve into History Last but not least, Ysleta reigns as the oldest mission. When you visit, save time for the Tigua Cultural Center, which educates visitors about the five centuries of Pueblo history and the cultural ties with the mission. The Tigua are the oldest federally recognized tribe in Texas and the center also has a retail space featuring goods by current tribe members. In June, plan to attend the Feast of St. Anthony at Ysleta, an annual event that features Tigua ceremonial dancers and other performances.

COURTESY SAN ELIZARIO

The Magic of the Other Texas Missions

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S P E C I A L A DV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

DIRECTORY

3DJUSTINCASE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Further your education with area private schools, universities and continuing education programs

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S P E C I A L A DV E R T I S I N G S E C T I O N

Central Catholic High School

At Central Catholic, it is our mission to educate young men, from diverse backgrounds, in the Marianist tradition for success through the development of scholarship, leadership and moral character. The first boys’ school in San Antonio remains a prestigious landmark in San Antonio and a symbol of teaching excellence. 1403 N. St. Mary’s St., 78215; 210-225-6794, cchs-satx.org

BASIS San Antonio Primary

The BASIS Texas Charter School network, with its time-tested, high-level curriculum and bright, passionate teachers, has long been the topperforming district in Bexar County. The 2022 U.S. News & World Report rankings confirm that BASIS San Antonio-Shavano Campus is the #1 open enrollment, tuition-free school in the entire state of Texas! Per US News, it’s the #1 charter school in Texas, the #17 charter school in the USA, and the #25 STEM school in the nation! All seven BASIS San Antonio campuses are accepting applications now for the 2022-23 school year. Visit enrollBASISTX.com! 318 E. Ramsey Road, 78216; 210-775-4125, basisedtx.com

Keystone School

Keystone offers an accelerated PK3 through 12 curriculum that provides motivated students with a nationally recognized, well-rounded experience in a supportive, inclusive environment that encourages academic excellence, ethical growth, community involvement and responsible leadership. Our community is an oasis of intellectual inquiry, high expectations, nurturing support, and a commitment to helping others. 119 E. Craig Place, 78212; 210-735-4022, keystoneschool.org

St. Mary’s University

Founded in 1852, St. Mary’s is the oldest Catholic university in Texas. Academic achievement, community and holistic learning are what sets a St. Mary’s education apart. For many graduates, their St. Mary’s experience is a defining moment in their lives, sparking a passion for lifelong learning and servant leadership. One Camino Santa Maria, 78228; 210-436-3011, stmarytx.edu JUNE 2022

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To-go dining has turned into an art unto itself. Make the most of restaurant dishes at home with these recommendations for where to go, what to order and when to reheat before digging in.

The

San Antonio Guide to

Takeout Food

Edmund Tijerina

photography by

JoMando Cruz

hen the pandemic kept all of us from dining out, restaurants changed their menus and business models, and many of us ordered out to support our favorite places or to get a break from cooking. But as we continued carrying out and ordering delivery long after dining rooms had reopened, many of us 34

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food styling by

Alicia Mendez

also discovered that truly enjoying restaurant food at home requires a little planning and strategy. A good takeout meal can anchor a date night or even a small gathering—or it can be an expensive, lukewarm mess. We’re here to help make sure your next order doesn’t turn into the latter.

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Sunday Supper fried chicken from Cured

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Where to Order

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Pickup

Delivery*

*Note: At most restaurants, delivery is only guaranteed within a certain distance. Some restaurants partner with services like Uber Eats or Grubhub, which charge the restaurant a service fee. Unless the eatery is providing its own delivery, the best way to support local (when you can) is to order directly from the restaurant and pick up your meal.

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Bohanan’s Even if you think the magic of a steakhouse is the sizzling steak arriving at the table, the most satisfying takeout experience in the city comes from the venerable steakhouse, Bohanan’s. Called B@ Home, it’s a three-course meal of a wedge salad and mom’s candied jalapeños; a filet, ribeye or salmon and a choice of either mashed potatoes or mac and cheese, all packed with an upscale touch. At just under $60 per meal, it’s a relative bargain for a steakhouse. You can also add more sides, salads or really go all out and start with a charcuterie board—it’s served on an actual wooden board with the Bohanan’s logo branded into it. Here’s the genius part: The steaks and seafood are served in oven-safe containers, so you can heat them in a 400 F oven for just a few minutes when you get home. They’ll come out hot but not overdone. Add a bottle of wine and a dessert, light a candle at your dinner table and enjoy your own steakhouse experience. 219 E. Houston St. Order at least 45 minutes in advance at 210472-2600 or bohathome.com.

Takeout Tips W H AT T O ORDER

Biga on the Banks In the early days of lockdown, placing a Favor delivery order from Biga felt like getting away with something. Unpacking the three-course special transported you to a table overlooking the San Antonio River, while finishing with the restaurant’s iconic sticky toffee pudding brought back memories of business dinners and family celebrations. If you’re a Biga fan, getting delivery or picking a meal up to-go is a must-try experience. Add an order of their breads to have enough to stretch the magic into the next day. 203 S. St. Mary’s St. Order at biga.com or 210-225-0722.

Cured Slightly soggy fried chicken may taste good on any day, but we urge you to wait until Sunday for your fix and order from Cured for chef Steve McHugh’s Sunday Supper. It’s either a half or a whole bird, served with stone ground grits, smothered greens, cornbread and hot sauce, and it may be the highlight of your week. To-go chicken orders are served in a pizza box, which seems like a genius move. The box helps keep the chicken crisp and warm and minimizes sogginess. The sides rise to the quality level of the chicken for a brilliant way to end the week—or to begin a new one. 306 Pearl Pkwy., Ste. 101. Order at curedatpearl.com or 210-314-3929.

Don’t Forget the Drinks COVID-19 was good for at least one thing: Texas lawmakers decided to allow restaurants to sell alcohol to go. If you call your order in or place it at the counter, ask for a wine or cocktail recommendation. Many eateries are still discounting wine to go, and most places are happy to pack up a cocktail. Some even seal them in pouches, so you just have to pour it over ice in a glass when you get home. A few to try: The Esquire Tavern makes well-crafted to-go Moscow Mules, Pimms Cups, Pineapple Daiquiris and, of course, Margaritas. 155 E. Commerce St. Order pickup or delivery at esquiretavern-sa.com or 210-222-2521.

Consider Cooking Technique Think about the way something is cooked before ordering. Braised or raw items are best. Braised dishes, such as a beef bourguignon, osso bucco or even barbacoa, hold their heat, and warm up well after a few seconds in the microwave. Raw and cold items—salads, sushi, sashimi, ceviche—all taste just as good at home.

Southerleigh Haute South gives diners the option of taking home everything from a Frose or Peachy Palmer to a Rooster Rita or Cucumber Cooler along with their entrees. Dining with friends? Add a Watermelon Sugar or La Peche Mode pitcher to share. 5822 Worth Pkwy., Ste. 112. Order pickup or delivery at southerleigh hautesouth.com or 210-236-8556.

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Freetail Brewing Co. has long offered six-packs and growlers to-go. It’s an option worth remembering if you’re looking for pizza and brews, or if you just want a growler for the weekend. On Thursdays, pints are just $4. 4035 N. Loop 1604 W. Order pickup or food delivery at freetailbrewing.com or 210-625-6000.

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Ramen

Can’t decide between broth and noodles or a Thai curry?

Ramen BECAUSE THE BROTH AND NOODLES

are packed in separate containers, ramen makes a perfect takeout dish. When you get home, just pop the broth in the microwave and blast it on high for a minute or so before carefully pouring it over the noodles and then adding the rest of the toppings. Tonkotsu, miso, shoyu broth—they all succeed brilliantly in takeout form.

Tenko Ramen

The Spicy Miso Tantan-Men will clear your sinuses with pork chili, ginger, sesame seeds and Sichuan pepper while the Miso Corn is a veggie option with baby box choy, shiitake pickle, miso “buttered” corn and a marinated egg. 312 Pearl Pkwy. in the Bottling Dept. Food Hall. Order at tenkoramen.com or 210-267-2996.

Ito Ramen

The Tonkotsu Ramen and Spicy Tonkotsu are customer favorites, but they’re just the start of authentic options here. 14395 Blanco Road. Order at itoramen.us or 210-843-4230.

Kimura

Each bowl is served with noodles, green onions, a boiled egg, fish cake, shiitake mushrooms and seasonal veggies or sprouts. 1017 N. Flores St. Order at kimurasa.com or 210-444-0702.

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Make room in your dinner lineup for both.

or Thai?

Thai EITHER GO COLD OR EASILY REHEAT-

able to get the most from takeout Thai. Curries are a great choice, because they’re easy to heat on the stovetop or microwave and they’ll keep their flavor and texture. You don’t have to heat the rice when unpacking takeout, but it helps keep the curries warm when you eat them. Or pick something cool, like a beef salad, green papaya salad, or minced beef salad called larb.

Thai Dee

Start with a beef salad that’s tossed with lime juice and chili powder for spice. The signature Thai Dee Curry is a red curry with shrimp, tomatoes, bamboo shoots, pineapple, sweet and hot peppers and fresh basil leaves. There’s also a peanut-based Mussamun curry simmered in coconut milk. 5307 Blanco Road. Order at thaideesa.com or 210-342-3622.

Thai Topaz

The Som Tum papaya salad is a staple while the Thai curry dishes can be ordered with beef, pork, shrimp, chicken or tofu. 2177 N.W. Military Hwy. Order at thaitopaz-sat.com or 210-290-9833.

Thai Esan & Noodle House

Its Panang curry features tenderized meat that’s slow cooked with sweet red peppers and traditional Thai chili in coconut milk. The papaya salad is in an authentic Esan-style. 9820 Huebner Road. Order at thaiesan noodlehouse.com or 210-877-0888.

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Maverick

Takeout Tips MAKING IT SPECIAL

Consistency and variety mark the three-course plat du jour, and it’s an outstanding takeout experience. The dish of the day changes, so check to see when coq au vin, porchetta or duck confit are available. Served with a house salad and dessert, it’s a marvel in a takeout bag. The salad and dessert hold their temperature, and the main dish stays warm until it gets to your house, or it takes only a few seconds in the microwave to bring it back to life. Add a starter of the airy gougeres or the pâté of the day and the party rises to a new level. 710 S. St Mary’s St. Order at mavericktexas.com or 210-973-6050.

AFTER A BRIEF GO AT A TAKEOUT MENU AT THE

Go all out

Swindle recommends ordering something like Maverick’s plat du jour, so it’s an easy three-course meal. Add some breads and maybe a shared appetizer. Get a nice bottle of wine, too.

Set the table

Pull out some nice flatware, cover the table with pretty linens, light a candle and put on some soft music in the background. “I think it’s all about ambiance,” he says. “Make it feel more like a restaurant setting. It’s almost like dressing up to stay home.”

Heavenly Pho

La Sorrentina

Pho lends itself well to takeout because it reheats well, and the toppings are packed separately, so it’s simple to garnish at home with bean sprouts, basil, cilantro leaves and jalapeño slices. Start with the rice paper summer rolls, which stay fresh. If you’re not getting pho, consider the spicy beef soup, the bun bo hue. Banh mi, classic Vietnamese sandwiches, also make for terrific takeout. In a city filled with solid Vietnamese options, Heavenly Pho is a favorite. 19178 Blanco Road. Order at heavenlyphosa. com or 210-545-3553.

In a menu of well-executed Italian American classics, the baked spaghetti stands out as a specialty that works especially well for takeout. At this overlooked gem near St. Mary’s University, the dish arrives in a foil pouch like a gift on a plate. Get it to go, and you just take the gift home. This rich combination of pasta, shrimp and calamari in a red cream vodka sauce, delights with cheesy goodness. One bite and you’ll wonder why you waited so long to try it. 3330 Culebra Road. Order at lasorrentinasa.com or 210-361-0184.

Serve it in courses

Take the different items and put them on shared plates. Then course out your meal at home just like it would arrive on your table at the restaurant, with salads and bread to start, the main dish next and dessert to close out the meal. It might make for a few extra dishes later, but that’s all part of the experience.

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Takeout Tips W H AT T O ORDER

Texture Matters Those amazing truffle fries or the flaky and lightly charred Brussels sprouts tossed in a sweet glaze? They may be perfect at your favorite eatery, but they’ll be soggy by the time you get home. In general, stay away from fried foods. The crisp texture is part of the experience, so it’s best to keep those in a restaurant. But crisp vegetables in a cool salad are perfect. If you still can’t resist the fries, revive them by tossing them onto a baking sheet in a hot oven for a few minutes. Better yet, go for housemade chips. An exception to the rule Good fried chicken is always the right choice. Even if it loses some of its texture, it will still have some crispness and taste great. And if you’re getting chicken fried steak, make sure the sauce is served on the side.

DAVID G. LOYOLA

height of pandemic shutdowns, Maverick Texas Brasserie is tackling takeout once again with a menu that focuses on braised items, like those in the restaurant’s daily plat du jour specials, which feature a salad, main course and dessert. “We want to make this a beautiful, tight menu,” says Brannon Swindle, the restaurant’s general manager. “It’s fun and we want to make it fun.” Swindle offers a few tips for making a night of ordering in feel as special as dining out.

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Order Meats by the Pound

Ming’s The steamed buns may star on this menu, but the best bets for takeout are the chilled noodle bowls. In a lineup of strong contenders, the Sichuan noodle bowl remains a personal favorite. Dress up your bowl with an added protein. Meanwhile, the small plates, such as edamame, century egg and wings, as well as the hot noodle bowls and soups still satisfy when they’re room temperature. 914 E. Elmira St. Order at mingsthing.com or 210-600-4083.

CREATE YOUR OWN EXPERI-

ence at home by picking up meats by the pound. You can never go wrong with a smoky mix of brisket, ribs, chicken and fixings from your favorite barbecue spot. Think also of grabbing some jerk chicken with sides. We’re in love with mac and cheese from The Jerk Shack (which also offers delivery). Or consider picking up carnitas by the pound with salsas and tortillas. Regardless of the choice, you get to make your own plates and have plenty left over for another couple of meals.

Ro-Ho Pork & Bread Torta ahogada, the famed drowned sandwich of Guadalajara, makes for a surprisingly fantastic takeout item, and the best ones come from Ro-Ho Pork & Bread. Although the crusty, sourdough bread filled with carnitas is usually served at restaurants already covered in its signature spicy tomato sauce, chef/owner Jorge Rojo serves the sauce in a separate package so you can drown your sandwich at home. Natives of Guadalajara can eat a sandwich and keep their fingers clean with only a single, tiny napkin. While enjoying yours at home, you can use all the napkins and paper towels you want. 8617 N. New Braunfels Ave. Order at ro-hoporkandbread.com or 210-800-3497.

Barbecue 2M SMOKEHOUSE

2731 S. W.W. White Road, 2msmokehouse.com

Sichuan House

THE BIG BIB

Dashi Sichuan

106 Lanark Drive, thebigbib.com

Just about every item at Sichuan House, the city’s best Chinese restaurant merits a taste, but some items work especially well for takeout. Topping that list is the famed dong bo, braised pork belly in a savory and sweet sauce. It thrills even if it’s only lukewarm when it arrives. Or rewarm it on half power in the microwave for 30 seconds at a time to maintain the heat. At Sichuan’s sibling restaurant, Dashi, make sure your order includes plenty of the cold dishes. Sichuan House: 3505 Wurzbach Road. Order at sichuaneats.com or 210-509-9999. Dashi Sichuan Kitchen: 2895 Thousand Oaks Drive. Order at sichuandashi.com or 210-562-3343.

SMOKE SHACK

3714 Broadway, smokeshacksa.com Jerk Chicken THE JERK SHACK

10234 Hwy. 151, thejerkshacksatx.com Carnitas

Pollos Asados Los Norteños You could order only half a Norteño-style grilled chicken, but why? Just get the whole bird and enjoy the leftovers. They’ll disappear soon anyway. Marinated in an herby rub and grilled over charcoal, it’s a rare restaurant experience that offers all the joys of home cooking. Get your chicken with rice, corn tortillas, salsas, grilled jalapeño, grilled onion and lime. Set up a table in your backyard, toss some sodas and cervezas in a cooler and pretend you grilled it yourself. 4642 Rigsby Ave., 4822 Walzem Road. Order at polloslosnortenos. com or 210-648-3303 for Rigsby and 210-4814168 for Walzem.

ADELITA’S

1130 Fresno Drive, adelitatamales.com CARNITAS LONJA

Takeout Tips

1107 Roosevelt Ave., carnitaslonja.com

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W H AT T O ORDER

Important Ingredients It’s an old restaurant trick for chefs to make sure the starch component in a dish is cooked before the protein. That’s because potatoes and grains, like polenta and breads, all hold their heat longer. So, get the lasagna. Otherwise, reheat gently. If you have barbecue, consider enjoying it at room temperature or heating it very gently and slowly in the microwave. An exception to the rule A steak or piece of fish (salmon, tuna, sea bass) can handle 2 to 4 minutes in a 400 F oven to reheat. Don’t keep it there much longer, or else it will overcook.

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Tlahco Mexican Kitchen Depending on how far you’re driving, tacos, tortas and combo plates can prove tricky for takeout because they can grow soggy quickly. Instead, create your own party with a grilled meat platter, or parrillada. Here, it’s a mix of arrachera (skirt steak), chicken, shrimp, sausage, quesadillas, jalapeño poppers, roasted corn, grilled onions, guacamole and salsas, served with tortillas on the side. It’s a treat at the restaurant and a perfect way to make your own tacos at home. 6702 San Pedro Ave., 1662 Encino Rio, Ste. 100. Order at tlahcokitchen.com or 210-239-9457 for San Pedro and 210-4558543 for Encino Rio.

Pizza Plus If platonic can be ascribed to a takeout dish, it’s pizza. But that doesn’t mean it has to be boring. Take a break from your go-to (or your children’s go-to) and try something new with your next pie. Consider a Carbonara at Barbaro. The pizza comes topped with a white sauce plus bacon, black pepper and parmigianno-reggiano. The Hashbrown pizza with taleggio cheese, kale and honey is also a winner, and there’s a standard New York style with mozzarella that you can top as you please. Barbaro also offers a terrific kale salad and an excellent Caesar— and you can always get a cocktail to go. 2720 McCullough Ave. Order pickup or delivery at barbarosanantonio.com or 210-320-2261.

At Il Forno, start with an appetizer of the antipasto, a mixture of house-cured meats, house-made ricotta and mozzarella, roasted and pickled veggies and flatbread. You can’t go wrong with any of its Naples-style pizzas, whether the Fun Guy with garlic, green onion, mixed shrooms, fontina and tallegio or the more traditional Americano with mozzarella and pepperoni. 122 Nogalitos St. Order pickup or delivery at ilfornosa.com or 210-616-2198.

Sushi Staples

Samurai Taco, Alamo roll and Yellowfish roll at Yellowfish Sushi

Takeout Tips W H AT T O ORDER

Save the cooked items from these sushi outposts for dining in and focus on the sushi and starters (like edamame or seaweed salad) when getting takeout. Pop your goodies in the fridge for a few minutes after you get home or after they’re delivered, and open a nice bottle of sake, sparkling or off-dry white wine. If you’re a red wine lover, a very light Pinot Noir or Gamay will work. Let the beverage of your choice serve as an aperitif and accompaniment to a fun meal. Our current favorites are the creative Japamex stylings of Yellowfish Sushi and the always consistent Sushihana. It’s also tough to beat the convenience of Sushi Zushi’s delivery. Yellowfish Sushi: 9102 Wurzbach Road, 17711 I-10. Order pickup or delivery at yellowfishsushi. com. Sushihana: 1810 N.W. Military Hwy. Order pickup at sushihanasan.com or 210-340-7808. Sushi Zushi, multiple locations. Order pickup or delivery at sushizushi.com.

Keep it Simple You want to enjoy your dinner, not assemble it. As much joy as chef-driven creations can deliver, it’s best to reserve these complex experiences for when you’re at the restaurant. That is, unless you want a bunch of different condiment containers with several different sauces and a major challenge in piecing them together.

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If you live near an H-E-B that includes South Flo Pizza, add it to your dinner plans. Order a couple of pizzas that absolutely blow away the national chains plus a HighWheel beer on tap. Then wander the store and sip. In the time it takes to finish your local beer, the pizza will be ready. At $10 a pie and two bucks per beer, it’s a sweet deal. H-E-B at Alon, Loop 1604 and Blanco, Loop 1604 and Bandera, Loop 1604 and Bulverde, Leon Springs and South Flores. Order in-store or delivery at favordelivery.com in some areas.

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za Mendo d i v a D by otography h p ● y t t e P n e by Kathle

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Antonio’s n a S n i s e ing pric rs s i r d n a ngly led buye i y s r a e o r t c n n i ve ket has r a Low in m ning these six r e u t t a , s t u s i e d a real search r r i e test suburbs h t t o h d s ’ n y t a i c to exp nto the i s n w o t nearby

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ennifer Shemwell likes to compare the local real estate market to a Texas river. It’s always flowing, but it can slowly meander down its path during droughts then move so swiftly that it fills with rapids when rain levels are high. In San Antonio right now, it’s a constant rapid. “We’re in a very fast-moving market,” says Shemwell, CEO of Phyllis Browning Co. “There is tremendous demand. It’s one of the most exciting real estate markets that we’ve ever been in.” In March, the most recent data available at press time, the median home price in San Antonio was up to $326,500, a 22 percent increase from a year ago, according to the San Antonio Board of Realtors. Inventory remains low, says Tracie Hasslocher, chairwoman of the San Antonio Board of Realtors, which means buyers have to move quickly and sellers are frequently receiving multiple offers. The average number of days a home sat on the market in March fell to 34, a decrease of 11 days from March 2021. “The market is really competitive, and we expect it to stay that way throughout the year, especially if you are looking for a home under $300,000,” says Hasslocher, broker and owner of Hasslocher Boutique Realty LLC. “As long as you have multiple offers coming in, prices are going to continue to increase.” She emphasizes to buyers that a swift market requires them to have their financing in order before ever going to look. And if they see a home they love, they need to make an offer immediately. Sara Briseño Gerrish, broker and owner at Re/Max Unlimited, says the competitive market has also led some to look outside of San Antonio. Increasingly, she says, residents in San Antonio and Austin are considering New Braunfels and San Marcos while Alamo City residents are also looking to areas like SchertzCibolo-Universal City, Boerne and other nearby towns—in short, the suburbs. “People have really widened that net on the search criteria,” Gerrish says. “Especially people who are working from home and commute SAN ANTONIO time is not as much of an issue.” She reminds buyers that while prices are certainly higher MEDI AN PR IC E : than they’ve been, San Antonio remains the most affordable $326,500 metropolitan area in Texas. “There are no signs of it slowing ACT I VE L ISTING S: 4,258 down,” she says. Shemwell adds that many families are interested in the com- DAYS ON M AR KE T: munity aspect of smaller towns, whether they live near its 34 downtown in a historic home or on land with Hill Country views. In a post-pandemic world in which many people are still working from home, at least parttime, there are fewer reasons not to consider properties outside of central San Antonio. Still, Shemwell emphasizes to buyers that homes are selling quickly in the suburbs, too. She says, “Everything is busy right now.”

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(From top) Main Plaza in downtown Boerne is the site of festivals, car shows and events throughout the year; Flashback Funtiques is one of several shops and restaurants on the town’s walkable Main Street; River Road Park sits on the banks of Cibolo Creek and has trails, picnic spots and piers for fishing.

ME DIAN PRIC E :

$551,184 DAYS ON MA R KE T: IT’S ON SATURDAY AFTERNOONS WHEN CHRISTINE JOHNSON

and her husband are enjoying a drink in the beer garden at Free Roam Brewing Co. while their 5- and 6-year-olds play nearby that she knows they picked the right hometown. The couple relocated from Maryland in 2019 for her husband’s government job and Johnson knew the first time they visited that she didn’t want to live amid the traffic and crowds of Loop 1604 and Highway 281 in San Antonio. They drove out to Boerne where they found the small town feel they were looking for plus highly rated schools and a short drive to grocery stores, restaurants and other amenities in both Boerne and Northwest San Antonio. “It’s just a wonderful place to live,” says Johnson, a real estate agent with Fathom Realty who shares her favorite things about Boerne and San Antonio on her YouTube channel. Johnson says they love the idyllic feel of Boerne’s Main Street, which boasts stores, coffee shops and breweries. Cibolo Creek is perfect for when her kids are up for fishing or hiking while regular events, from Boerne Market Days to Dickens on Main at Christmas, mean there’s always something to do. Shemwell, CEO of Phyllis Browning Co., which has an office in Boerne, says the town appeals to both those who want to live in an older home near its downtown and picturesque Main Plaza gazebo as well as those looking for open land on which they can build or buy newer homes. “People want to be part of smaller communities and have been drawn to a little bit slower pace of life since COVID,” she says.

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27.5 SCHOOL DI STR IC T:

Boerne ISD (A-94) PROS :

It’s an easy commute to Northwest San Antonio, its schools are highly rated and it is family friendly. CON S:

Boerne is only becoming more popular, which means homes are selling quickly and prices are on the rise. Traffic can be dense on I-10 and again at Loop 1604 when heading into SA.

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Bulverde Community Garden is a reflection of the town in which it’s located. The garden offers locals a place to plant their own organic produce, and there are plots dedicated to the local food pantry, Provisions.

ASHLEY COOKE AND HER HUSBAND HAD LONG

dreamed of retiring in the Hill Country, but as they were driving through Bulverde after dropping their kids off at T Bar M Camps one summer, they realized they didn’t need to be empty nesters to relocate. “We thought, ‘What are we waiting for?’” Cooke says. “His job had taken us to Houston, and we never felt at home there.” With a position that had him traveling frequently, the Cookes were free to live anywhere within driving distance of an airport, so they purchased a piece of property in Bulverde and four years ago moved into the home they built. “It was the best decision ever,” says Cooke. “The people we have met here, they feel like family.” The city north of San Antonio has grown over the last several years, but residents say its community spirit has not changed. That may be thanks, in part, to events like Musik in the Park, which brings free concerts each spring to Bulverde Community Park, where residents also enjoy free movies in the summer. The park is also home to a community garden where locals can plant

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their own produce. In neighborhoods like the nearby and private Timberwood Park community, residents gather at a fishing pond, tennis courts, swimming pool, six-hole golf course and playground while parks like the 43-acre Kleck Park provide opportunities for getting outdoors without a long drive. The area has plenty of high-end homes (a $3.1 million mansion and 5-acre lot with a pool featuring four waterfalls was on the market earlier this year), but there are also still relatively affordable houses, including some priced at less than $300,000. Cooke, a freelance wedding photographer, launched The Monday Market at Bulverde last Labor Day on a piece of property where she hopes to eventually open a studio. Like the community in which they live, she wanted the property to be a place for businesses to support one another and the farmers/makers market does just that with nearly 20 artisans, food trucks, produce and other vendors who set up twice each month to serve local shoppers. “We’ve never felt a sense of community like we have here,” Cooke says.

MEDI AN PRIC E :

$502,500 DAYS ON MAR KE T:

16 SCHOOL DI STR IC T:

Comal ISD (A-92) PROS:

The town offers Hill Country living without a long commute to San Antonio. Comal ISD schools are well-rated, and the area is home to some of its newest campuses. CONS:

Comal County is booming, so prices likely will continue to go up and inventory is slim (there were just 12 active listings in March). Highway 281 can get backed up for commuters.

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(From left) Castroville, known as the Little Alsace of Texas, is home to the Steinbach House, a historic visitor and tourism center that was constructed in the 1600s in France and gifted to the city by the Alsatian people; Haby’s Alsatian Bakery has been a favorite for cakes, breads and pastries since 1974.

MEDI AN PRICE:

$325,250 DAYS ON MARKET :

14 SCHOOL DI ST RICT : BUYERS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW ARE

increasingly widening their search to Castroville, where new builds and master-planned communities, such as the Alsatian Oaks neighborhood that broke ground last fall, offer contrast to the town’s 90-plus historic structures and homes. Those include Alsatian-style houses built between the 1840s and early 1900s and the Steinbach House, a 1600s home constructed in France and then shipped to Texas in pieces. It was restored 20 years ago by students and staff from a college in Alsace, France, and now serves as a visitor’s center and a good starting point for residents looking to get acquainted with their town’s European roots. Other historic structures have found modern purposes as eateries or shops, including Castroville Café, which is in an

1800s home where diners can relax on a spacious front porch, and the Magnolia Filling Station, a coffee house set up in a 1930s gas station. Get acquainted with central Castroville during Fiorella Fridays, or first Fridays, when downtown streets are blocked off so locals and visitors can walk between shops and restaurants while stopping to enjoy live music or food truck fare. The city that’s just 30 minutes southwest of downtown San Antonio also has plenty of opportunities for enjoying the outdoors. Castroville Regional Park has become known as a birder’s haven for its more than 160 species of birds plus walking trails with views of the Medina River and a well-curated butterfly garden where guests have spotted more than 60 different species of butterflies.

Medina Valley ISD (A-93) PROS:

It’s a close commute for those working downtown or at Lackland Air Force Base. While it is growing, it maintains more of that small town feel (and size) than places like New Braunfels or Schertz. CONS:

Because it’s a small town, residents do still have to go to San Antonio, or elsewhere, for some amenities (including H-E-B).

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THIS ENCLAVE ON THE NORTHWEST

edge of San Antonio is now home to over 9,000 residents who enjoy some of the perks of Hill Country living without the commute. Government Canyon State Natural Area and Iron Horse Canyon Natural Area provide ample places to get outside while Old Town Helotes, John T. Floore’s Country Store and restaurants like El Chaparral and Bobby J’s mean residents never need to venture far to find something to do. Traditional single-family homes are the draw while most neighborhoods are zoned for well-rated Northside ISD campuses.

M E DIAN P RICE:

$385,000 DAYS ON M A RK ET:

27 SC HOOL DIST RICT:

Northside ISD (B-87) PROS :

It offers plenty of ways to enjoy nature plus smalltown events like Cornyvale,

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a Fourth of July fest and Saturday MarketPlace days. CON S:

Though technically a suburb, Helotes is becoming engulfed by San Antonio’s growing Northwest Side, which means residents deal with all of the traffic and crowds of San Antonio.

IT TOOK JUST TWO WEEKS FOR APRIL RYAN TO LEAVE NEW BRAUNFELS

after graduating high school. The San Antonio native’s family had moved there when she was a teen, and she wanted to be anywhere else, eventually settling in the Pacific Northwest for nearly a decade before returning to Texas in 2008 in search of a lower cost of living. She and her sister, Ashley Landerman, opened their 2 Tarts Bakery in downtown New Braunfels in 2010, and Ryan says she’s since fallen in love with the place she once gladly left behind. “When I graduated as a (New Braunfels High) Unicorn, I would have never thought that in 2020 I’d be watching my kid cross the stage as a Unicorn. I never thought I would come back, but I’m so

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(From top) Gruene Mansion sits next to the Guadalupe River in historic Gruene; New Braunfels' Main Plaza has been a centerpiece of the town since 1845 and is near several downtown businesses.

MEDIAN

CONS:

P RICE:

You may be in competition with buyers from Austin for homes, and the city is among those experiencing some growing pains as housing stock, roads and schools catch up with the exploding population.

$373,000 DAYS ON MARKET:

34 SCHOOL DISTRICT:

New Braunfels ISD (B-89), Comal ISD (A-92) P ROS:

Lots of quick access to recreation and all the amenities of a larger town.

glad I did,” she says. “It’s such an enchanting place to grow up. I love living here in New Braunfels.” A mom of two, Ryan says both the business community and the city as a whole offer a sense of camaraderie. “Owning a business in New Braunfels is all about community,” she says, adding that between Wurstfest, Wein and Saengerfest, the farmers market and regular events in Gruene, it’s tough not to get involved. “We show up for each other and we put our people and our community first all of the time.” She and her family live near Fischer Park, and Ryan says they love the ability to jump in the river after school or to visit the city’s aquatics center or parks. Redfin called the 78130 and 78132 zip codes that are part of New Braunfels one of the hottest neighborhoods of 2022, and in 2020 the city was one of the top 10 fastest growing in the nation, according to census data. That growth has caused some tension, especially among longtime residents who don’t want to lose the small-town atmosphere they’ve long loved. The outskirts of the city have increasingly attracted Austin and San Antonio residents working from home or looking for a place that’s within driving distance of the office. Ryan says welcoming new residents—and the expanded infrastructure needed to support them—while maintaining the community spirit is a balancing act, but one she hopes they can all embrace. “There’s so much opportunity for connection and a real sense of community,” she says. “I think that’s what makes New Braunfels so special.”

THE SUBURB NORTHEAST OF SAN ANTONIO

has long been popular with families, but its allure has only grown as the real estate market tightens thanks to an inventory of homes in multiple styles and prices. “That’s always been a popular area,” says Gerrish, with Re/Max Unlimited, explaining that its well-rated schools and convenient location along I-35 appeal to families, retirees and military personnel stationed at Randolph Air Force Base. Savannah Tamayo, who grew up in nearby Universal City and moved to The Crossvine community in Schertz with her husband and children three years ago, says they love the small-town feel of the area plus the city’s dedication to developing trails and parks. “The trails are amazing,” she says. “You don’t have to drive anywhere to be able to feel like you’re in nature.” With growth in Schertz and its neighbor, Cibolo, there are also more options than ever for going out without leaving town. Families can head to Main Street in Schertz for soft serve from Frost Bite, lattes from Americana Coffee & Espresso Bar and craft beers or cocktails from Bar House. On I-35, EVO Entertainment and Magnolia Pancake are popular spots for families, retirees and young adults.

MEDI AN PRICE:

$385,000

trails and things to do.

DAYS ON

CONS:

MARKET :

Traffic on I-35 can be a headache heading in either direction, and Schertz’s days as a hidden gem have long passed, which means you’ll likely face competition when making an offer on a home.

25 SCHOOL DI ST RICT :

Schertz-CiboloUniversal City ISD (B-89) PROS:

A variety of price points, a family-friendly community and plenty of parks,

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Eat + Drink I N SI D E / SA’S CUL INA RY M O M E NT p. 56 / FRIED C H IC KEN SAMMIES p. 58 / ALWAYS TIME FOR D ESS ERT p . 6 2

SARI -SARI SUPPER CLUB

10234 Hwy. 151, Ste. 102 sari-sari-satx.com Brunch and lunch Wed-Sun Dinner Wed-Sat

Fusion of Flavors drian and Camille De Los Reyes, the husbandand-wife team behind the Sari-Sari family of restaurants and markets, wanted to share a piece of themselves at their latest venture, Sari-Sari Supper Club. “We are Filipino-American—born in America, 100 percent Filipino,” Adrian says, adding that the original Sari-Sari location pays homage to Camille’s father and his authentic Filipino recipes. “Our new restaurant supper club is food for our generation; food that is both Filipino and American.” That fusion is evident throughout the extensive dinner menu in dishes like the signature porchetta, which consists of a pork belly base that’s been slow roasted for

PHOTO BY MARTY MORRIS

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four hours with lemongrass and bay leaf. It’s served with Filipino-style pickled papaya that’s made in-house and a Mang Kyo dipping sauce. At brunch, the ube swirl French toast is another bicultural dish that has become a fan favorite. It features ube, a purple yam or sweet potato from the Philippines. The last Sunday of each month, Sari-Sari Supper Club pays tribute to its name with a communal dining experience around a specialty prix fixe menu that’s curated by a local chef. Open to up to 50 guests, Adrian says the evenings spotlight a wide variety of flavors. “We have the opportunity to showcase Filipino-American flavors in a way that no one else has in this city” he says.—KATHERINE STINSON

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E AT + D R I N K / F O O D N EW S

The rest of the world may finally be realizing what locals have known all along: San Antonio’s food scene is superb BY KATHLEEN PETTY

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iscovering the delight of slow-roasted barbacoa wrapped in a homemade tortilla isn’t technically part of the curriculum at the Culinary Institute of America – San Antonio, but assistant professor and chef Lilla Bernal says it’s an integral piece of the experience nonetheless. “We have students who have some ideas about what the food culture is here, and it’s exciting to get to see them experience it,” says Bernal, a CIA alum and an assistant professor of baking and pastry arts. Certainly, breakfast tacos and mangonadas are part of what defines San Antonio’s culinary scene, but Bernal and other chefs are quick to point out that it’s the diversity of styles and cuisines— not just the stellar Tex-Mex—that make San Antonio a destination for diners. It’s something outsiders have increasingly taken notice of over the last decade, including earlier this year when

COURTESY CURED

A Culinary Destination

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San Antonio chefs and restaurants earned a record seven James Beard Award semifinalist nominations. Known as the Oscars of food, the awards recognize the best in the industry and while locals have been nominated several times over the years (Bruce Auden holds the record with seven nominations), a San Antonian has yet to win an award. This year’s semifinalists included everything from barbecue to Mexican to fine dining, but chef Steve McHugh, of Cured, was the lone local finalist. Winners will be announced during a ceremony this month in Chicago. “We’ve had an amazing culinary scene and I honestly think it’s people taking notice,” says McHugh, who’s garnered six nominations over the years for his work at Cured. “To the foundation’s credit, they saw major cities were getting (a lot) of the nominations and they looked at some of the second tier and even smaller cities this year. It’s great. That’s what it should be.” The uptick in awards and national media over the last few years come on the heels of San Antonio being named one of just two UNESCO Creative Cities of Gastronomy in the U.S. Stephen Paprocki, one of the city’s UNESCO chef ambassadors and the owner of Chef Cooperatives, says San Antonio has long been “a city on the rise” but that the designations and awards have been crucial in getting others to take notice. “Every year it’s getting better,” he says. “With UNESCO and the James Beard Awards, it’s all eyes on us. We have to hit the mark.” Keeping the momentum going at a time when the industry also faces staffing challenges and record inflation will take work, he says, but they’re also the same hurdles chefs in other cities are dealing with. “I can name 10 restaurants that have closed because of staffing and they’re going out quietly,” says Paprocki, who shuttered his Gunslingers eatery at Los Patios earlier this year due to staffing. He plans to reopen it as a food trailer, which will serve the to-go style meals people are increasingly wanting while also requiring minimal staff. “There’s always ways to grow, you just have to find that pivot.” Berty Richter, the chef behind the forthcoming Ladino slated to open at Pearl later this year, says it’s San Antonio’s growth and creativity that attracted him and the Austin-based Emmer & Rye family of restaurants. “This is a natural path of growth for us as a company,” he says. “San Antonio is growing and there’s talk about how the two cities could become one big metro area, but San Antonio is creating its own momentum and the credit goes to San Antonio for doing that.” Bernal says the growth is exciting to watch and that it’s part of a long history of great food—something San Antonio chefs tend to recognize and honor. “San Antonio really values everything that has kind of come before this moment,” says Bernal, who is also a UNESCO chef ambassador. “We’re the land of the 99-cent taco, but we’re also the land of these high-end restaurants that are forward thinking when it comes to farm-to-table. We have all of these barbacoa places and Tex-Mex spots that are everyone’s favorites—that’s what’s great about the food scene. There is such a wide variety of not just styles but also philosophies.” JUNE 2022

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E AT + D R I N K / D I S H

+3 Others to Try THE OG CHI CKE N SANDWICH AT CULLUM’S AT TAGIRL

You’ll need an extra napkin, but the mess of this masterpiece served on a potato bun is more than worthwhile. A juicy chicken thigh is fried until it has that satisfying crunch and then topped with Cullum’s neon trailer sauce, honey, poppy seeds and a perfectly crisp egg. Try to eat it by picking it up but don’t feel bad if you have to reach for a knife and fork. 726 E. Mistletoe Ave., cullumsattagirl.com THE DELUXE AT PROJECT PO L LO

834 N.W. Loop 410, Ste. 106 goldfeatherbb.com Lunch, dinner and late night daily

Between the Bread Gold Feather turns a standard fried chicken sandwich into breakfast in one bite ith a decade in the restaurant industry, Miguel Mayagoitia knows brunch draws a crowd. But in crafting the menu at Gold Feather, which he opened along with business partners Moises Valdez and Sean Bemis, he decided that brunch foods didn’t have to be relegated to the weekend or morning hours. So, alongside a full menu of chicken wings, tenders and a classic fried chicken sandwich, they introduced the Good Morning America. A fried chicken sandwich at its base, the entrée also features candied bacon, hash browns, a fried egg and just-sweet-enough syrup that’s all piled between two thick slices of Texas toast. The chicken is juicy with a crisp fried shell and the combo indulgent while still hearty enough to enjoy at lunch or dinner. “We’re a scratch kitchen and we wanted to get creative,” Mayagoitia says. He and his business partners opened the eatery in a former Dickey’s Barbecue near North Star Mall nearly two years ago and they’ve worked to create an environment that is family friendly and customer focused. That means if you leave a review on Yelp, Mayagoitia is likely to respond. Fried chicken is also served atop red velvet or churro waffles, as part of a Caesar salad and in a banh mi. However you prefer to enjoy it, Mayagoitia recommends pairing it with a pint or a growler-to-go from one of the 23 craft brews on tap. “We wanted a place that married good food and good craft beer,” he says.—KP

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Lucas Bradbury is out to prove that classic chicken sandwiches don’t have to include any chicken. His plant-based Project Pollo now has five locations in San Antonio (and several in other Texas cities) that are known for the deluxe “chikn” sandwich that’s topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato, smoked gouda and a signature birdy sauce. For something spicy, try the Nashville Hot, which is served on a brioche bun with creamy coleslaw and spicy sauce. multiple locations, projectpollo.com CHICKEN SANDWICH AT SOUTHERLEIGH

Gulf Coast fare may be what this Pearl outpost is known for, but its fried chicken sandwich slathered in Duke’s mayo is a must for any chicken sandwich aficionado. It’s stacked high with lettuce, tomato and pickles and served with fries. Also, try its sister chicken sammie at Southerleigh Haute South, which is piled with coleslaw and haute sauce. 136 E. Grayson St., Ste. 120; 5822 Worth Pkwy., Ste. 112, southerleigh.com

COURTESY GOLD FEATHER

GOLD FE ATHER

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E AT + D R I N K / L I B AT I O N S

The Art of Cocktails Enjoy unique drinks and handmade glasses at artist Amada Miller’s Hands Down BY JASON P. OLIVARRI

hat started as an exhibition and pop-up bar by local artist Amada Miller has evolved into a permanent cocktail spot featuring a drink experience that’s just as unique as the handmade vessels they’re served in. “Hands Down just kind of happened organically. We kept doing pop-ups in different locations (and) cities. People seemed to really enjoy it, and the opportunity just presented itself,” says Miller, whose Hands Down exhibit and pop-up began at Fl!ght Gallery in 2019. “I just decided to go for it. It was very much not something I ever thought I would ever do.” Opened in partnership with the Empty Stomach Group, which also runs Little Death Wine Bar where Miller worked, Hands Down specializes in “interesting and unique” cocktails and wine—some of which are served in distinct glasses and mugs made by local glass and ceramic artists. Along with wines patrons likely won’t see at H-E-B, the bar offers its own spin on classic cocktails, like a frozen gin and tonic that’s made in the same type of machine that usually churns out frozen margaritas and a salted lemon-lime cordial that Miller says utilizes freshly squeezed juices that often otherwise go to

HANDS DOWN

1012 S. Presa St., handsdownbar.com Open daily

Is there a dish you don't like as takeout food? Where do you like to go to enjoy it? The perfection of a puffy taco is evanescent; after only a few minutes on the plate, the crunchy crust melts into sogginess. I don’t even think about getting it for takeout. Instead, I go to Ray’s Drive Inn and enjoy it fresh out of the kitchen in all its crispy glory.

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COURTESY HANDS DOWN

waste. There’s also cases stocked with bottles of wines for purchase to take home. A menu of bar snacks is offered daily while a high-end fish selection is also available every Tuesday. Above all, Miller says the casual bar is meant to provide an opportunity to take a break from the mundane by trying something new. “We are a fun, very approachable place, and I want people to feel comfortable and just in a place where they can feel a good vibe and relax, bring their friends and family and all have a great time,” she says.

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OFF MENU News from the restaurant scene

Cake Thieves Bakery & Eatery, which supplies vegan treats to coffee shops throughout San Antonio, opened an East Side cafe this spring. / Hanamaru, a Japanese shop specializing in fishshaped waffle snacks stuffed with savory or sweet fillings, opened on Callaghan Road in April. / Chef Johnny Hernandez’s La Gloria is coming to the South Side with a new location at Brooks scheduled to debut this summer. / Cultura Coffee closed due to financial constraints. / The team behind Pinch Boil has plans to open Wurst Behavior, an Asian-inspired beer garden, later this year near the St. Mary’s Strip. / A bar focusing on mezcal and tequila, Chingon, opened on South Presa Street in May. / Missouri-based Andy’s Frozen Custard will open its first San Antonio location this year on I-10. / H-E-Bowned Favor announced it is hiring a Chief Taco Officer who will spend the summer finding the state’s best tacos. / Vincent Guerrero and Jonabelle Timms will open Vico Coffee in St. Paul Square this month. / Pearl's Bottling Department Food Hall will add pizza to its offerings with WonderSlice, opening this month. / Chef Rene Fernandez debuted tapas and wine spot Hola! in Southtown in May.

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5/12/22 12:54 PM

E AT + D R I N K / S P OT LI G H T

BELL ARO CUPCAKERY & SWEETS

19141 Stone Oak Pkwy., Ste. 302 210-375-4714 bellarocupcakery.com Open Tues-Sat

Baked with Love WHAT STARTED AS A MOTHER’S LOVE FOR HER SON HAS EVOLVED INTO

a full-fledged bakery that not only provides weekly treats but also a place that fosters family fun. Lynnette Mendoza always enjoyed baking cakes for her son’s birthday, and at the request of friends several years ago she started taking custom orders. That eventually developed into appearing at pop-up events and demand grew so quickly that Mendoza expanded into a bakery-on-wheels that could serve cake and dessert at weddings, bridal showers and other events. She enjoyed celebrating life’s biggest moments with her clients, but she also didn’t want people to have to wait for a special occasion to order dessert. Her BellaRo Cupcakery & Sweets, which debuted in Stone Oak in January, solves that dilemma with a weekly menu of cupcakes, cookies, whipped cheesecakes and more—all available for order on special days or just because. Mendoza also takes custom orders.

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“I’ve always loved being creative,” Mendoza says. “I got into the baking business as a hobby of making my son’s birthday cakes and it grew from there.” Inside the shop, guests are warmly welcomed with the bakery’s official motto, “Darling, you deserve cake,” emblazoned on a main wall in bright gold. Mendoza wants kids and adults alike to enjoy making desserts just like she does, so in addition to selling treats, she also offers custom private events plus family-friendly decorating workshops that are often themed around a holiday (a Father’s Day class will take place this month). Knowing the hard work it takes to make a small business thrive, Mendoza also supports other entrepreneurs by stocking the cafe with goods by local makers, including cups by Vinyl Besties and dolls by Pops of Whimsy. —KS

COURTESY BELLARO CUPCAKERY & SWEETS

BellaRo Cupcakery & Sweets has grown from a hobby into a Stone Oak staple

JUNE 2022

5/13/22 11:30 AM

T H E G U I D E / E AT + D R I N K

9 Local Pizza Joints Skip the delivery chains for one of these hometown pie makers BIG LOU’S (Southeast)

They’re famous for their 42-inch pizzas, but you don’t have to commit to a giant pie to enjoy a slice here. Create your own with your favorite toppings or let Big Lou’s do the work and try their veggie pizza, the BBQ or the white pizza with olive oil, mozzarella and fresh tomatoes. Calzones, wings and pasta are also available. 2048 S W. W. White Road, biglouspizza-satx.com CAPO’S PIZZERIA (Alamo

Heights, North Central, Medical Center) The Perna family is known for its New York–style pies, whether the supremo that’s piled with veggies, pepperoni and Italian sausage or the classic margherita. Calzones, pastas and sub sandwiches also are menu favorites, and pizza is available by the slice in-house. 8522 Broadway, Ste. 105; 6350 Blanco Road, Ste. 103; 4263 N.W. Loop 410, Ste. 100, capospizzasa.com

Northeast) Start with Luke’s made-to-order pepperoni rolls before selecting a specialty pizza. The Tutta La Carne is a meat lover’s dream while the Pizza Bianca features ricotta, extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarella, feta, smoked provolone and garlic. 6462 N. New Braunfels Ave.; 13444 West Ave., Ste. 300; 17230 Autry Pond, Ste. 110; julianspizzeria.com MATTENGA’S (Schertz, North-

east) Gluten-free, grain-free/ protein-heavy and regular crusts mean there’s an option for everyone at this local pizzeria. The Texas brisket pizza includes slow-smoked brisket plus mozzarella and a molasses Kansas City–style barbecue sauce. 6044 FM 3009, Ste. 290; 17219 O’Connor Road, mattengas.com PLAYLAND (Downtown) Ste-

fan Bowers’ team crafts crisp, naturally leavened pizzas on a two-ton wood-fired oven that bakes at 700 degrees. Build your own or order a house pizza like the Guilt Trip, which features organic zucchini, local honey, semi-dry mozzarella and pepperoni. 400 E. Houston St., playlandsa.com

DOUGH PIZZERIA NAPOLET-

ROYAL PIZZA (Shavano Park)

ANA (North Central, Hemisfair)

Greek-style sandwiches become tasty pies at this restaurant, which is known for its Royal Pizza that’s made with red sauce, red onions, mushrooms, kebab meat and sauce. 4415 De Zavala Road, royalpizzashavano.com

The house-made signature burrata al tartufo is not to be missed and the pizzas are as good as they look on the Food Network, whether the classic margherita, the prosciutto crudo or the fontina. 6989 Blanco Road, 518 S. Alamo St., doughpizzeria.com FRALO’S (Northwest) The pizzas are as enjoyable as the enviable outdoor atmosphere here. Traditional margherita, BBQ chicken and meat lovers are available, but don’t miss the Game Time, which features venison pepperoni, fresh spinach and provolone. 23651 W. I-10, fralos.com JULIAN’S ITALIAN PIZZERIA

(Alamo Heights, North Central,

VOLARE (Olmos Park) Cheese

pizzas are just $8 on Tuesdays, and on Wednesdays, families can get a large garden salad or spaghetti for free with the purchase of a medium or large specialty pizza. There are also daily lunch specials and happy hour deals. 3902 McCullough Ave., volarepizzasa.com Restaurants' service and menus can change. Please call ahead to confirm. For our full directory of San Antonio restaurants, visit sanantoniomag.com/ restaurants-bars.

JUNE 2022

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5/13/22 11:30 AM

A Pandemic Push Inga Cotton, founder and executive director of San Antonio Charter Moms, reflects on her own family’s search for the right school

uring the darkest months of the pandemic, there were times when I felt like a failure as a parent. The lesson I learned was that I was not failing, but I did need to recognize the need for change and take action. Since before my children were born—my son in 2007 and my daughter in 2009—it has been important to me that they get a great education. As tech-savvy people with a fast internet connection and enough laptops to go around, our family adapted fairly well when school and work went virtual in March 2020. However, almost a year later, distance learning was taking a toll. It felt like my son was falling behind, in a critical year. My daughter, who had always been a conscientious student, seemed apathetic and lost. It was time to take my own advice. For over 10 years, I have been telling the San Antonio Charter Moms community that there are many schools out there, and the important thing is finding the right fit for your children. I needed to stop and pay attention to what

my children were interested in and whether their schools were matching those needs. Both of them had noticed that my husband and I are “pajama-class” workers—knowledge workers who can be productive from anywhere—and they want that flexibility, too. They love the coding classes they have been taking after school and wanted to do more of that during the school day. We did a school search and narrowed it down to STEM-oriented programs that have electives and extracurricular activities in subjects like cybersecurity, robotics, engineering and graphic design. We applied, went through the lottery, and got them enrolled. The 2021-22 school year was a good experience for both of them, in new schools where they can work toward their dreams: for my son, being an architect and engineer, and my daughter, being a computer scientist and game developer. And it was good for me, too, to be able to look back and see what felt like parenting failure ended up being just a push to make changes and help my children grow.

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ILLUSTRATION: BECRIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; COTTON: COURTESY HERSELF

FINAL THOUGHT

JUNE 2022

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5/12/22 12:44 PM

SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE JUNE 202 2

A GUIDE TO TAKEOUT / T H E SU BUR BS

Vol. 17 No. 8

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