Issuu

SAN ANTO NI O M AGAZ I NE Pitmaster Chris Ashford, of BBQ Life by Chris

JULY / AUGUST 2022

t s i L t e k c Bu sting a t e l i h make w the city’s o t s p o 21 st rough h t y e, plus a n w e c r s u e o y arbecu pitmasters b g n i v i thr ttest o h e h t meet

How to beat the heat on the water this summer

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Contents

SA’s Best BBQ The Alamo City’s barbecue scene is on fire. Meet a few local pitmasters leading the way and find out where to go for the best brisket, pulled pork tacos, mac and cheese with chicharrones and classic banana or cornbread pudding.

IN THE LOOP

E AT + D R I N K

City News A local nonprofit is partnering with the city to help Afghan refugees build new careers.

Food News Women are getting involved in every facet of the local craft brewing business.

Person of Interest UTSA’s first female chief of police started with the department nearly three decades ago as a lost and found clerk.

Tastemaker Meet the 93-year-old entrepreneur behind the East Side staple Ma Harper’s Creole Kitchen.

Read Whether poetry, thrillers, nonfiction or children’s stories, these books from San Antonio authors deliver the perfect diversion for summer.

Ingredients Cosmicones adds a dash of creativity into each of its shaved ice bowls.

Spotlight Taste Miami in a sandwich at Castle Hills’ Bilia Eatery.

Dish You won’t miss the meat in these vegan tacos.

Libations Boerne’s Assemble Cocktail Workshop will turn you into your own bartender.

Influencer Oliver Adamson brings dedication and artistry to his welding operation, Citizen Build. Casa A former Project Runway star transforms his Terrell Hills sunroom into a dog-friendly mudroom.

Art Look for these five new-ish public murals and statues.

Health Two entrepreneurs are harnessing the power of social media for good with their mental health app, WeTree.

WORK OF ART 64

Sketching Texas San Antonio artist Matt Tumlinson combines his perspectives of a rural Texas upbringing and a decade in San Antonio in his public murals, oil paintings and cowboy musings.

Summer Paddling Guide Kayak the San Antonio River, standup paddleboard in Boerne, raft the Guadalupe in New Braunfels or head to the coast for a sunset on the water.

Ruby City Immerse yourself in Isaac Julien’s “True North,” thanks to a specially designed gallery.

On the Cover David Teran photographed Chris Ashford, owner and pitmaster at BBQ Life by Chris, one of 20-plus area places to visit for great barbecue.

B BQ & T U ML I NSO N : J O MA ND O C RUZ ; A RT: COU RT ESY C I T Y O F SA N A N TON I O

F E AT U R E S

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EDITOR'S LETTER

ONLINE

Kathleen Petty Editor in Chief kpetty@sanantoniomag.com @kpettysamag

Indoor Diversions Freelancer writer Jill Robbins is helping San Antonians avoid the heat without having to stare at their iPads all day with a roundup of familyfriendly adventures in the air conditioning (including at The DoSeum, pictured here). sanantoniomag.com/ indoor-fun

COMING UP Make plans for 24 hours of San Antonio fun.

PE T T Y: J OS H H US KI N; M US EU M : KAT H LE EN PE T T Y

y barbecue ignorance was surely showing when I started asking questions of Chris Malloy, the pitmaster who teaches locals how to perfect their own brisket during Backyard Pitmaster classes at various San Antonio breweries. My dad is a chef extraordinaire who can smoke a brisket, turkey or even a topping-heavy pizza. I, on the other hand, do most of my cooking inside. Malloy, though, was happy to help. Let’s say someone (read: me) has never ventured beyond burgers on their standard grill. Where should they begin? I asked. He dove right in. Chicken, it turns out, is a great starting place when using a smoker for the first time as it takes under three hours and is the perfect learning ground for temperature management. Brisket, he cautioned, that takes some practice—and time. Fortunately for San Antonians, while they’re mastering their own brisket (get more tips for that on page 44), they can also taste their way through the city’s thriving barbecue scene, where longtime pitmasters continue to shine and newcomers add spots for ’cue lovers to venture out and try. Food writer Edmund Tijerina names six barbecue places in town not to miss, but also rounds up over a dozen other restaurants where the brisket, pulled pork tacos, sandwiches or sides are well worth your time. Some, you’ll likely know, like one of my favorites, South BBQ + Kitchen, which stuffs its perfectly smoked brisket into housemade tortillas. Others, like newcomer Reese Bros Barbecue, which makes queso fundido sausage links, you may not have tried yet. Find the full roundup on page 34 and start making your own barbecue bucket list. You’ll also notice a few changes in this issue—most notably that it’s a double issue. Like most businesses, we saw some shifts during the pandemic. Our audience grew, but new readers were more often finding us online and, in the months after the height of COVID-19, through our events. So, we’re refocusing some of our efforts there, moving to a bimonthly print magazine while providing more content at sanantoniomag.com (look for some subscriber exclusives coming soon) and continuing to create events that bring our efforts to help San Antonians live their best local life, well, to life. Within your print issues, you’ll still see most of your favorite regular pieces plus a few new ones (check out our new back page dedicated to highlighting pieces within the city’s vast art collections). And creative director David G. Loyola has refreshed the design of the magazine with a cleaner look and some new formats. On the events side, we’re starting with the return of our BBQ & Beer Festival. Join us Aug. 14 at the Witte Museum for an afternoon of ’cue, sides, craft beer and fun.

First Tee Find out why the CEO of First Tee-Greater San Antonio gave up her corporate career to help local youth learn about life through the game of golf. sanantoniomag.com/ carrie-kimbell

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EDITORIAL

OPEN SKY MEDIA

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Kathleen Petty

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Contributing Writers

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© Copyright: San Antonio Magazine is published by Open Sky Media, Inc. The entire document of San Antonio Magazine is © 2022 by Open Sky Media, Inc. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the express written permission of the publisher. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of ownership or management. Editorial or advertising does not constitute advice but is considered informative. San Antonio Magazine is locally operated.

SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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IN THE LOOP

Patchwork Storage COU RT ESY RU T H & EST H ER

IN THE KIRKLAND HOUSEHOLD, QUILTED

pouches are as common as Ziploc bags are in other homes. Jessica Kirkland, a mom of four and the owner of Ruth & Esther Handmade Goods, uses the pouches to stash makeup, pencils, earbuds, notebooks, diapers and wipes, and even snacks for her kids. “We have pouches everywhere,” she says. Kirkland started quilting because she wanted to make bedspreads for her then 3-year-old twins as they transitioned out of BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

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their cribs. “I didn’t know what I was doing, but I loved making quilts,” she says. She continued sewing and brought her quilts to Boerne’s Handmade Market, where she sadly found no one wanted to buy them. Instead of quitting the quilting business, though, Kirkland downsized her patterns and began making pouches lined with fabric that are easy to slip into a purse, backpack or diaper bag. Those were a hit. She now exclusively sells them online, where her email and social followers get alerts about custom releases that quickly sell out. For inspired DIYers, she also offers patterns and a mini video course to teach others how to quilt their own pouch.

SHOP

Ruth & Esther Handmade Goods instagram.com/ruthandesther

SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

6/9/22 10:12 AM

IN THE LOOP

CITY NEWS

BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID G. LOYOLA

Training Up Jobs program aims to help Afghan refugees find a career and a sense of community in San Antonio

he idea of a food truck leading to a thriving brick-and-mortar restaurant is not a new one, but Nadia Mavrakis says it’s a concept she hopes will make all the difference for Afghan refugees making their home in San Antonio. The CEO and co-founder of the nonprofit Culturingua, Mavrakis and her team are expanding a food truck and entrepreneurial training program known as Nourish to Flourish that is meant to help Afghan refugees who already have culinary skills learn how to transfer them to the U.S. For some that means learning the regulations of a commercial kitchen and for others it requires opening their first bank account after working in a cash-based society. “We want to look at and capitalize on the resources and skills they already have,” says Mavrakis. It’s estimated that the city of San Antonio has welcomed around 4,000 Afghan refugees since the

“It’s really meant to just build this bond of friendship and support, so they really feel they are a part of the San Antonio community.”

U.S. withdrew its troops from Afghanistan last fall, says Tino Gallegos, the city’s acting immigration liaison. The city already had become a hub for refugees from Afghanistan over the last decade, and that is only continuing to grow, with San Antonio ranking fourth in the nation for the number of Afghan refugees it helped to resettle last year. Culturingua was founded in 2018, in part, to help Afghan refugees—as well as those from elsewhere in the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia— promote their culture and heritage while becoming a part of the local community. They knew resettlement agencies, like Catholic Charities and RAICES, help families with housing, school enrollment and other basic necessities. But from there, they also knew that additional support typically is needed. When it comes to work, Gallegos says refugees often get stuck in entry-level jobs, whether because of language barriers, transportation

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limitations or other reasons, and that “will only take you so far.” Culturingua wants to help change that. Its Nourish to Flourish program won $62,000 in donations last fall for winning Philanthropitch, and earlier this year the nonprofit was awarded $150,000 from the Open Society Foundation to partner with the city, its SA: Ready to Work initiative and other organizations that together can assist Afghan refugees in not just finding jobs but eventually achieving career paths with upward economic mobility. Aside from culinary training, Culturingua has launched a textile program where women are taught to create pieces they can sell on Etsy. A number of refugees have also arrived already trained in trades such as HVAC repair, construction or plumbing, and Culturingua wants to help provide the additional assistance they need to get hired and to pass licensing exams in English. Culturingua also is in the process of becoming the first certified food handling trainer in Texas that offers courses in Pashto and Dari, native languages of Afghanistan. Additionally, refugees can pursue job programs through existing city offerings, like SA: Ready to Work, which provides career education. Jobs that provide equitable wages are just the start. In parallel to its workforce efforts, Mavrakis and her team are connecting refugees with locals from congregations, universities and businesses through their Communities of Welcome for Afghans project. Once paired, the San Antonio volunteers assist with everything from understanding the VIA bus schedule to navigating doctor appointments and budgeting for groceries with a new language and currency. They also simply spend time with one another. “It’s really meant to just build this bond of friendship and support, so they really feel they are a part of the San Antonio community and so that the San Antonio community really gets a sense of who the Afghans are,” says Mavrakis. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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IN THE LOOP

PERSON OF INTEREST

INTERVIEW BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

PHOTO BY JOSH HUSKIN

Chief Roadrunner UTSA’s newest police chief, Stephanie Schoenborn, started as a lost and found clerk with the department nearly 30 years ago hen University of Texas at San Antonio Police Chief Stephanie Schoenborn asks an officer to complete an assignment, it’s likely something she’s done herself at some point. An Army brat who grew up in Germany, Schoenborn joined the department as a lost and found clerk in 1993 simply because she needed an on-campus job. At the time, she was majoring in business. After moving into the records department, however, she became interested in serving the community like the officers whose reports she spent hours typing up. She applied to the police academy and changed her major, becoming an officer in 1995 and later earning her bachelor’s and then master’s degrees at UTSA. After serving as interim chief of police since April 2021, Schoenborn was appointed the first female police chief in UTSA’s history earlier this year. “I’ve done almost everything at this police department, and it provided me the experience to bring me to where I am today,” she says. “This is my home, and I don’t imagine myself doing this anywhere else.”

You’ve described UTSA as a small city. How so? We are bigger than some of the small communities around San Antonio. We have 36,000 students now, and we have 4,000 students who live on campus, and we have everything you would expect in a city. We have utility problems and people who live together who don’t get along. We see everything from drug cases to family violence, everything from minor issues to more serious crimes. We have students who live here yearround, including international students who can’t just pack up and go home for spring break. Outside of that, we have students who live all around us and we’ll respond (alongside SAPD) if something is going on. We also have a big population downtown and that is growing as UTSA merges with Southwest School of Art, which covers 8 acres downtown. 12

FAC T F I L E UTSA PD: Schoenborn leads a department of nearly 50 officers and 50 staff members. Making History: She became the first woman to lead UTSA PD and is one of two female police chiefs in the UT System. Education: Bachelor’s in criminal justice and master’s in public administration, UTSA

You started working on community-police partnerships before being sworn in as chief. What does that entail? I try to get out and meet with those stakeholders that can give us opportunities to interact with students. I schedule meetings with department chairs and others on campus and always ask who else they can connect me to. I want the university leadership to feel very comfortable that if they have a question about something, they can send me an email or text me. I also try to get out into the central plaza and interact with students every day. We try to hire students, whether through work study or internships. The best way to communicate with our students is through other students. We rely on work study students to help us with social media because they relate to other students. UTSA is one of the top places for cyber security so why not rely on students to help us when it comes to our security cameras or our website? We’re always recruiting. Every person in the department, in my opinion, is a recruiter and a community affairs officer because how they interact has

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an impact on what people think of our department and the services we provide. What has kept you at UTSA? When you work here in a smaller department, you can really make an impact. Large agencies serve a different type of need—you go from call to call to call. Here, you get to know the people, even though it rotates every few years. You also get the opportunity to find what you’re really excited about doing. I used to ride mountain bikes and so I was our bike patrol coordinator for a long time, which wouldn’t have been as easy to do at a larger agency. Here, I tell officers if there’s something you’re “When my appassionate about and love to do, let us know. pointment was an-

nounced, I got several text messages from other female officers telling me it was inspiring and that was very impactful.”

Has your gender impacted your career? When my appointment was announced, I got several text messages from other female officers telling me it was inspiring and that was very impactful. I’ve never felt here at UTSA that gender was an obstacle. I’m very grateful for that and it could have been very different—I’ve known other women who’ve had different experiences. In doing my job, I just try to encourage people to persevere. Have the courage to step through those doors when opportunities present themselves. As a mom (to two teenagers), it’s important to have that work-life balance. Flexibility is key. I know what I need to get done every day, and whether I get that done between 8 and 5 or earlier in the morning and later at night, I think it’s important to be flexible and, especially postCOVID, to give people that flexibility. Do mass shootings, like the one that occurred in Uvalde recently, impact your department and the way it seeks to protect the campus? Yes, these tragic events impact us but this one in particular hit very close to home. We have staff within our own department who have ties to the Uvalde community. Our department and the campus community has offered support to those affected. The families are in our thoughts and our hearts are broken for them. The safety of our community is our highest priority. When events such as these occur, law enforcement agencies collectively assess training and response capabilities. UTSA PD will continue to proactively evaluate our procedures as we gain understanding of what occurred in Uvalde. This interview has been edited for length and clarity. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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IN THE LOOP

READ

BY JACEY BLUE RENNER

Summer Lit List

NONFICTION

FICTION

POETRY

CHILDREN

The Mayor and the Judge: The Inside Story of the War Against COVID by Judge Nelson W. Wolff Bexar County Judge Nelson Wolff recounts his and Mayor Ron Nirenberg’s experiences navigating the daily and political challenges of the pandemic. He examines their decisions, mourns the passing of close friends and outlines strategies for handling any future pandemic.

Math For the SelfCrippling: Stories by Ursula Villarreal-Moura This flash fiction debut is both dark and witty. A Gold Line Press fiction winner, the book spans from the 1990s through present day San Antonio and explores loss, imagination and the connections between religiosity and mysticism.

Ricochet Script by Alexandra van de Kamp Local poet and executive director of Gemini Ink, Alexandra van de Kamp’s newest release and third collection offers an existential look at how we truly bargain with time, “where whole days can feel as if they were ‘written/in someone else’s script.’” It aptly covers a wide range of storylines and unpredictability, which feels relevant in 2022.

Where Wonder Grows by Xelena González The second book from Xelena González and illustrator Adriana M. Garcia explores family stories through visits to grandma’s special garden. There, her granddaughters learn about many of the beautifully illustrated gifts that come from our natural world.

The Peculiarities by David Liss The latest release from this historical fiction author marries Victorian England with supernatural oddities. Thomas, a proper gentleman, navigates a mysterious murder, all while trying to understand why magic is transforming him into something unexpected: a tree.

The Notebook Keeper: A Story of Kindness From The Border by Stephen Briseño A middle school English teacher, Stephen Briseño brings true events to life in his debut children’s book. The illustrated tale follows a mother and daughter who fled their home in Mexico and seek refuge with “the notebook keeper” after being denied entry into the U.S.

COU RT ESY PU B LI SH E RS

Add these books by local authors to your must-reads

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IN THE LOOP

INFLUENCER

BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

PHOTO BY VINCENT GONZALEZ

Off the Rails Welder Oliver Adamson found his passion after becoming an entrepreneur out of necessity liver Adamson admits one of the main attractions of San Antonio when he first moved here more than 10 years ago was that it was just a short drive north to Austin. He had just graduated with an architecture degree in England, where his parents are from, and was offered a one-year internship with Lake | Flato.

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“I had been to Austin and loved it and thought I’d be close enough to drive there on weekends,” says Adamson, who now owns Citizen Build. “But then I moved here and fell in love with San Antonio.” That internship also taught Adamson that sitting at a desk for the bulk of the day was not for him. He’d welded since he was a teenager, first with his dad and then during a trade program between high school and college, and decided to shift his focus. He worked first for a fabrication shop in Texas and then in California for four years, where a fire at a job site forced him to reevaluate once again. “The house we were working on burned down and we all lost our jobs,” Adamson says. “I drove back to Texas and started Citizen Build out of necessity, basically.” A friend from Lake | Flato needed a project done at his home, so Adamson started there in 2017. By the time he was done, he’d found another job and within that first year, he was busy enough that the business he’d begun simply to pay the bills had become a thriving metal fabrication shop that he loved. Citizen Build now specializes in residential projects, crafting custom railings, pocket doors, dining tables, planters and more. They also have a T-shirt line that raises funds for the San Antonio Food Bank and other charities. After he received requests for metal signs and parts (things like 3D printer stands), Adamson launched a second company in 2021, Long Draw Supply, which handled commercial business. That is merging into Citizen Build this summer as the business grows, and he’s hired three additional welders to meet demand. His wife, Genevieve, handles the books. They have a 1-year-old son who Adamson can’t wait to teach the basics of welding—just like his dad taught him years ago. “This has grown very organically,” he says. “I thought I would do this until the wheels fall off and they just never did.” SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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IN THE LOOP

CASA

BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

2 1

Magnificent Mudroom

Giving new life to a 1960s midcentury modern house started by combining function and beauty in the home’s garage entry ANTHONY RYAN AULD AND HIS BOYFRIEND KNEW WHEN THEY BOUGHT THEIR 1960S

home during the pandemic that it needed a lot of work. Still, the midcentury modern in the Terrell Hills-Terrell Heights area was a deal, says Auld, a former Project Runway contestant and Couleur + Blinde boutique owner who also dabbles in interior design. He says he knew it was worthwhile even if it took some time. Auld decided to tackle the original garage-turned-sunroom first, testing out some styles that he is now incorporating throughout the home. The resulting “mudroom” is as functional as it is beautiful. “We wanted the house to feel midcentury meets California meets a little bit of Southwest and Texas, but on a neutral scale,” says Auld. “Just because it’s a mudroom, doesn’t mean it can’t tie into the house and have its own vibe.”

2 Color Creatively Auld painted a pink arch to add color and personality to the wall. “The room felt square, so this adds a curved element,” he says. He suggests homeowners think creatively about ways to add color to a room beyond a single accent wall painted a different color.

3 Budget Finds Achieving a polished look doesn’t require spending a fortune. For the mudroom, Auld snagged a metal bench on Facebook Marketplace, picked up artwork and books to style the armoire at local vintage shops and found light fixtures and planters at Target and Home Goods.

4 Functional Design Auld focused on function within his design choices. Beautiful elements also add a purpose, such as the wooden armoire that has hidden storage for all of their dog gear plus brass hooks that hold bags and jackets while tying in with the Sputnik light fixture overhead.

5 Find Cohesion Ceiling tiles were replaced with blackstained tongue and groove wood that Auld tested out in the mudroom before carrying it into the rest of the home. Auld says incorporating common elements, like the ceilings or different wood tones, help the house feel like it was designed with intention rather than piece by piece.

COU RT ESY A NT H O N Y RYA N AU LD

1 Doggie Zone Auld and his boyfriend have two dogs, a Great Dane and a schnauzer mix, so they needed a place where they could leave shoes and leashes after walks as well as a space where their pups could lounge. For another family, the room would be a perfect playroom or a home office, he says.

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IN THE LOOP

ART

Outdoor Gallery

“Largest Outdoor Gallery in Texas” By various artists San Antonio Street Art Initiative and its partners transformed the pillars under the overpass at Quincy and N. St. Mary’s streets. Look for an iconic Cruz Ortiz piece, a tattoo-style mural by Kelly Edwards Tattoo, and the green pillar featuring a butterfly and face painted with a calavera by Paul Garson. His work was the one that kicked off the whole project back in 2018. See it: Quincy and N. St. Mary’s streets “Interwoven” By Jennifer Khoshbin Formerly housed downtown, this mural was moved earlier this year to a Pre-K 4 SA center where it now greets families each day. The piece depicts five refugee and immigrant women from Turkey, Honduras, the Republic of Congo, Haiti, and Afghanistan who now live and work in San Antonio. See it: Pre-K 4 SA West Education Center, 1235 Enrique M. Barrera Pkwy.

“Stargazer (Citlali)” By Pedro Reyes Created by a well-known Mexican artist, this 16-foottall sculpture inspired by the city’s tricentennial was added to the River Walk Public Art Garden this year. The sculpture depicts a seated woman who is holding and looking at a star-like figure. See it: On the River Walk between the Shops at Rivercenter and the Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center 20

“Bloom” By Leticia Huerta Huerta first created a “Bloom” sculpture based on native flowers at McAllister Park, and the local artist has since expanded the work to Eisenhower Park and Brazos Pocket Park, where a Mealy Blue Sage and Indian Paintbrush can be seen on either side of the sidewalk. See it: Brazos Pocket Park, 800 Chihuahua St.

“There’s No Place Like Home” By Ana Hernández Leave time before your next flight at San Antonio International Airport to see this mural painted across a bank of elevators in the parking garage. Hernández, a San Antonio artist, brings her imagination to life here with a scene of bright pink pigs flying through the clouds. See it: Long-term parking garage at the San Antonio International Airport, level four

I NT ERWOVE N, B LO O M , STA RGA Z ER : COU RT ESY C I T Y O F SA N A NTO NI O D EPA RT M E NT OF A RTS & CULT UR E; ST REE T ART: COURT ESY PAUL GARSO N

There are more than 600 pieces of public art in San Antonio. Here, find a few new and notable works to seek out while you’re exploring

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SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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IN THE LOOP

H E A LT H

BY VI VIAN PHILLIPS

Clicking for Support New app from Geekdom Media co-founder engages social media users to address mental health ndroid and iPhone users perusing existing mental health apps will find two categories: meditation apps that rely on a user to do everything themselves or apps that connect the user with a professional therapist. Lorenzo Gomez III, co-founder and former CEO of Geekdom Media, and friend Steve Cunningham, CEO of readitfor.me, felt like there needed to be another option between those extremes—something that didn’t require a psychologist but still allowed for direct connection with other people. That’s where WeTree, their new website and app comes in. “We have created a new category around mental health engagement,” says Gomez. “We are using what we think are people’s greatest resource—the people they already have in their life.” The app works off of a foundation of habit. Users login each day, much like they already do on Instagram or Facebook, and answer eight quick check-in questions that assess their mental health. It’s meant to take less than a minute and be applicable for everyone 10 and older. Once users have rated everything from their relationships to their feelings of positive emotion, their profile will show in red which areas they’ve indicated they need help or improvement. The colors are visible on the app to the user’s chosen network of friends and family, and the hope, Gomez says, is that one of those people will reach out. Often, he says, all it takes is for someone to check in for an individual who’s struggling to feel connected. The daily questions are based on the Positive Psychology Movement, and there are also two open-ended questions. “We know that the principles this is based on work, not because we came up with them, but because an army of positive psychologists did,” Cunningham says. “We just wrapped technology around it.” Already, the app has been adopted by CAST Schools and Trinity University, where students can use their campus’ subscription to build a network of peers to support one another. Gomez says they started the app to help reverse the social isolation that increased amid pandemic prevention measures, as isolation can lead to depression. They also know support is particularly crucial for students today. “We all struggle with mental health at some point, but no one wants to go first and say it,” Gomez says. “Now going first just means clicking a button.” 22

SC R E EN SH OTS COU RT ESY W E T R E E; P H O NE : GU T EKSK 7/SH U T T ERSTO C K .CO M

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SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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E AT + D R I N K

Taiyaki Treats TIK-TOK MAY DESERVE THE CREDIT FOR THE

latest surge in taiyaki, but the fish-shaped waffle snack served at San Antonio’s Hanamaru Café has been a popular Japanese street food for decades. “Most people trying it for the first time are here because of social media,” says Wickey Su-Mei, who opened the restaurant with business partner Satoko Koizumi in April. “Then they find they really enjoy it.” Traditional taiyaki, named for and shaped like the tai fish, is a soft, warmed waffle pocket that’s made of tapioca powder BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y | PHOTO BY MART Y MORRIS

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and flour and then stuffed with red bean paste. Those sweet staples are available at Hanamaru but guests can also select from other dessert fillings, like Nutella, Oreo or Ube (purple sweet potato), or from a line of savory taiyakis. For summer, Su-Mei says it’s their taiyaki soft serve creations that have locals returning again and again. The treat is made with that same fish-shaped waffle, but it’s cooked slightly longer so that it has more of a waffle cone crunch. It’s then filled with vanilla, matcha or swirl soft serve and topped with everything from Oreo dust or matcha powder to rainbow sprinkles and strawberry wafer straws. “It’s fun and different,” Su-Mei says.

HANAMARU CAFÉ

7460 Callaghan Road, Ste. 333 210-580-1521 instagram.com/hanamarucafetx Open daily

SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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E AT+ D R I N K

FOOD NEWS

BY JEREM Y BANAS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KLARE PEREZ

Erica Teague

Paige Martin

Vera Deckard

Mara Young

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Breaking Beer’s Barriers The craft brewing industry may still be dominated by men, but in San Antonio more women are finding their place

OWNING UP

Local breweries with women co-owners Alamo Beer Co. Nery Simor Blue Star Brewing Co. Maggie Villarreal Cactus Land Brewing Co. Erica Teague Dos Sirenos Brewing Kari Serino Künstler Brewing Vera Deckard Longtab Brewing Co. Natalie Holland Mad Pecker Brewing Co. Erika Gonzales Roadmap Brewing Co. Hannah Baker Second Pitch Beer Co. Samantha Hansen

omen were the original homebrewers, brewing as an extension of the gathering and cooking duties they were already handling as many as 13,000 years ago. Then, sometime around the 16th century, brewing began shifting toward big business, and women were sidelined, leading to the male-dominated industry we know today. Still, over the last decade, that imbalance has begun to shift. Change is slow—nearly 60 percent of breweries in the U.S. are still owned solely by men—but in San Antonio, women have become involved in everything from co-ownership to brewing to managing sales. “I’m seeing women in breweries like never before,” says Maggie Villarreal, who opened Blue Star Brewing Co. in 1996 along with her husband Joey. “It’s pretty impressive.” Before Villarreal, the last women involved with commercial brewing in San Antonio was Emma Koehler, who took the reins of Pearl Brewery in 1914 following the death of her husband. Villarreal says it was her husband who had dreams of opening a brewery, but she’s been involved from the start, learning how to manage the business of a craft brewpub while he spearheaded brewing. “I came from not knowing a thing about business to now knowing a lot more,” she says, adding that she graduated college with plans to become a teacher. “I certainly couldn’t do it without Joey, but he for sure couldn’t have done it without me.” The couple has provided advice to others starting out in San Antonio’s craft beer scene and Villarreal has become one of dozens of women, including several other co-owners.

San Antonio also boasts a few female brewers, including Erica Teague with Cactus Land Brewing and Künstler Brewing’s Vera Deckard, who won a medal at the Great American Beer Festival in 2018. Deckard says certainly the field is largely dominated by men, but that locally, she didn’t experience any pushback when jumping into the craft beer community. “That is not to say those barriers don’t exist, nor to discount the experiences of women who have faced discrimination,” she says. Paige Martin, a certified cicerone who handles sales and quality control at Second Pitch Beer Co., says she encountered some “boys club” mentality when first trying to break into the industry, but she’s encouraged by the number of females involved in every facet of the business now. She’s among the women who founded San Antonio’s Pink Boots Society chapter last year, which serves as a networking organization for women in beer as well as an educational outlet. They host community brewing days that allow members to learn how different systems work and to learn about a variety of styles of beer. “Getting us all in the same room has allowed us to connect a lot more and become more visible. There is probably still one woman for every five men (in local breweries), but it’s getting better,” Martin says. “The more you can see yourself in those roles, the more likely you are to pursue them.” Martin also serves on the board of San Antonio Beer Week, along with Mara Young, co-owner of Community Cultures Yeast Lab, which supplies yeast to breweries nationwide. Young says many local brewery owners are hiring more females and encouraging them to pursue leadership roles, but that it will take time for the balance to really shift. “In some ways I do see change, and at the same time I think we’ve only just started,” she says. “The good news is that I think we are ready for change and ready to promote women in the industry.” Several local breweries also have diversified their calendars to include events that appeal to beer drinkers of all genders, such as silent book clubs, running and cycling groups, trivia nights, and meetups for the local chapter of Girls Pint Out, which brings together women with a passion for craft beer. The eventual goal, says Young, is to create an industry that is representative of the community as a whole. Beer, after all, isn’t just a guy or girl thing. “I think it’s important because when we speak of the craft beer ‘community’ that needs to include all of our community,” she says. “Our industry can’t be exclusive while also trying to grow.” SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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6/10/22 11:59 AM

E AT+ D R I N K

TASTEM A KER

BY KIMBERLY A. SU TA

PHOTO BY EMILY SCHMALSTIEG

Ma Harper Serves up Gumbo and Gospel The 93-year-old Air Force veteran behind San Antonio’s Creole staple wants to give back while serving great food MA HARPER’S CREOLE KITCHEN

1816 N. New Braunfels Ave. facebook.com/ maharperscreolekitchen Lunch WednesdaySunday

a Harper’s Creole Kitchen has been an East Side staple for decades, serving gumbo that’s become the stuff of legends, and even Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives’ Guy Fieri can attest to that. According to Alice Harper, known as Ma, Fieri said she could make a career out of just selling her gumbo, which she jokes is made with everything but the kitchen sink. “Gumbo is my No. 1—imitated by many, duplicated by none. People come from everywhere to try the gumbo. I don’t make it like a lot of people. I don’t even use oil in my gumbo, even though I was raised to make it that way,” she says, confiding that she relies on a dry roux instead. Harper is now 93 and, with the help of her family and second chance employees, is still making some of the most authentic Creole cuisine in town, including hearty shrimp po’boys and savory red beans and rice. She was born in New Orleans and is the second oldest of 16 siblings. Harper says she started

cooking at 12 as a way to avoid the more onerous chore of doing laundry using only a washboard. She moved to San Antonio with her husband Bill, who still works with her at the restaurant. Before launching Ma Harper’s, she worked for over 20 years as an aircraft mechanic at Kelly Air Force Base, also cooking on base whenever she had the opportunity. At 53, she went back to school to obtain her GED. She also suffered a brain stroke around this time but refused to quit, crediting her steadfast determination and iron clad faith for helping her persevere. It was nearly a decade later, when she retired from the Air Force at 61 that she opened her restaurant. From the beginning, she has been hiring those in need of second chances, as well as people challenged by physical ailments. “I had to have a motive,” she says. “And my motive was to give back and allow people to see what they have in them that God would like to bring out of them.”

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E AT+ D R I N K

INGREDIENTS

BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

Cream + Sprinkles

Whipped cream is carefully swirled over the top and then pink sprinkles drizzled over the tufts of cream.

Classic Vanilla

The bottom of the cup is filled with a premium vanilla ice cream crafted without corn syrup.

Supernova

Snack Food

Shaved ice is piled in next. The Strawberry Supernova is a strawberries and cream flavor that features a layer of housemade vanilla cream.

Strawberry cream Pockys, the popular Japanese flavor-covered biscuit sticks, are added to the side of the cup before it’s served with a pink spoon.

Berry on Top

Strawberry-flavored marshmallows that feature a chocolate center are stuck into the side of the shaved ice.

Elevated Ice Boerne years ago, Crystal Bless has wanted to open a similar dessert stand. “I would visit and just think, ‘She has it figured out,’” she says of the owner. “She loves what she’s doing, and she gets to make people smile on the daily.” After her husband, Travis, was laid off from his auto industry gig during the pandemic, the couple decided to go for it, opening Cosmicones trailer at the Pink Hill on Broadway. Travis has since returned to a car dealership, but Bless continues to serve up traditional shaved ice plus creative dessert concoctions, like the Strawberry Supernova, each Thursday through Sunday. 30

COSMICONES

2012 Broadway @ Pink Hill instagram.com/cosmicones Follow Cosmicones on Instagram for updates on hours and location

COU RT ESY COS M I CO NES

EVER SINCE HER FREQUENT VISITS TO A SHAVED ICE OUTPOST NEAR HER OFFICE IN

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SPOTLIGHT

BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

E AT+ D R I N K

Cultural Fusion Castle Hills favorite Bilia Eatery eyes an expansion for its Miami-influenced sandwiches ryan Rojas and Mariana Wong loved the culture and flavors of Miami, but when the couple started their family, they knew it wasn’t the place they wanted to raise kids. They relocated to San Antonio, where Wong, a native of Mexico, had graduated high school. Rojas took a job as sous chef at Piatti while the husband-and-wife dreamed of what they might serve when they opened their own cafe. “We do modern American food with Latin American and Miami influences,” Wong says. With a Miami-style Cubano sandwich as a menu staple, the two opened Bilia Eatery in Castle Hills in the fall of 2019. The restaurant has become such a neighborhood favorite that Wong and Rojas recently started construction on a larger space nearby so they can host more customers for breakfast and lunch. They plan to move by 2023. “It’s more stressful to own a restaurant, but the long hours, stress and tiredness is worth it because you’re doing it for yourself,” Wong says. “Ultimately, it’s more fulfilling.”

COU RT ESY B I L I A EAT ERY

BILIA E ATERY

2211 N.W. Military Hwy., Ste. 131-B instagram.com/biliaeatery Breakfast and lunch Wed-Sun, brunch Sat-Sun

Their Cubano is still a favorite, made with slow-roasted pork that’s marinated overnight with bitter oranges before being braised for 18 hours and then served on buttered French bread with ham, Swiss and housemade pickles. The Steak Argentino is Rojas’ favorite—a sandwich with breaded and deep-fried New York strip steak topped with ham, provolone, avocado and a homemade South American chimichurri sauce. Rojas also shares a dish popular in his home country of Colombia, arepas, which he describes to Tex-Mex fans as a different take on gorditas. The 305 Arepa has shredded beef and sweet plantains while the breakfast arepa includes eggs, cheese and your choice of ham, chorizo or bacon. Wong says native Texans often expect something spicy or taco-like, so they encourage new customers to approach their first bite with an open palette. “Have an open mind and don’t be afraid to try new things,” she says. “Our food is not spicy. We do sweet plantains and arepas. It has Colombian, Cuban and Latin American influences.” Along with the standard menu, the restaurant offers weekly specials that have included things like the Reina Pepiada, a Venezuelan-style chicken salad arepa, and a Southern-style fried chicken sandwich with homemade buffalo sauce. Weekend brunch features a Monte Cristo with ham, Swiss and poached berries served between French toast. Now the parents to a 5- and 1-year-old, Rojas and Wong say they hope they’re building something their kids will want to take over one day. “We’re creating a name for ourselves and hopefully something we can pass on,” Wong says. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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E AT+ D R I N K

DISH

BY K ATHERINE STINSON

3 MORE VEGAN OPTIONS Blissful Burgers Burgers and chili cheese dogs? Don’t do a double take, because everything on the menu here is 100 percent vegan. They even have a chik’n fried steak patty sandwich called the OG. 5714 Evers Road, blissfulburgers.net

Avoid the meat sweats this summer with these vegan main dishes CARNITAS MAY LITERALLY TRANSLATE TO “LITTLE MEATS,”

but Plantology proves the dish can be delicious even without the meat. The vegan and gluten-free restaurant uses jackfruit as its meaty base for carnitas tacos at its two locations. The cooked jackfruit, along with mushrooms, mimic the flavor and texture of meat and are piled atop a corn tortilla along with pico, cilantro and pink onions. Founder Griselda Munoz, who’s also behind Vegan Avenue on Main, says her goal is to serve fresh, vegan meals that feature local ingredients when possible. And, Munoz says, she wants people to know they can eat healthy without giving up their favorites, like street tacos and burgers. 32

PL ANTOLOGY

22026 Hwy. 281, Ste. 101 7915 W. Loop 1604 N., Ste. 106 eatplantology.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

Viva Vegeria The menu at this South San Antonio staple is all traditional Tex-Mex, except everything is vegan and gluten-free. Try the “chicken” flautas, made with plant-based chik’n, or the BBQ tacos, with cauliflower serving as the meaty foundation. 1422 Nogalitos St., myvegeria.com

COU RT ESY P L A NTO LO GY

Plant Forward

Verve Pie Co-founders Gene Liguori and Adriana Messina made a bold move when opening their 100 percent plantbased pizza place. They hired a non-vegan chef: Keith Cruzan. The result? Crowd-pleasing vegan pizzas like the All-American, a thick pizza with vegan garlic aioli, plant-based cheddar cheese, Impossible Beef and burger sauce. Top it off with fried onions and pickled jalapeños and cucumbers, and you’ll never miss the meat. 313 Schneider Drive, Ste. 121, Cibolo, vervepie.com

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LIBATIONS

BY K ATHLEEN PET T Y

E AT+ D R I N K

Shake It Up Become your own bartender at Boerne’s Assemble Cocktail Workshop freelance bartending gig, a broken printer and perhaps a bit of serendipity are to thank for Lillian Oler’s latest business venture, Assemble Cocktail Workshop. The Bandera native and her family moved to Boerne from Napa Valley just more than a year ago and Oler, a longtime restaurant industry professional, started bartending private events at the invitation of a neighbor. Since no one carries cash, Oler liked to bring a printed QR code so customers who wanted to tip could scan it and simply Venmo her. But one day, her printer was broken. She walked over to the library to print her sign and on her way home noticed a “for lease” sign in the window of an adorable cottage downtown. “I thought, ‘My husband’s going to kill me, but I’m going to start a business here,’” she says, laughing. Two months later, the mom of three was hosting her first cocktail workshop in the space. To get there required a lot of work inside— the hot water heater had exploded during the 2021 winter storm and never been fixed, and a kitchen had to be added in what was once a large closet. But when completed, the space was equipped to host small groups for private events and weekly workshops where couples and friends learn to master two craft cocktails, whether Tiki drinks, bourbon-based classics or brunch favorites, like the French 75. “They may have watched YouTube or tried making drinks during COVID, but a lot of people have never even shaken a cocktail,” Oler says. While bartending events, Oler says she was often peppered with questions about how to recreate a drink at home and decided cocktail classes could also be a fun date, bachelorette outing or girls night. With her experience as a trainer for restaurants, she put together themed, 90-minute workshops where she discusses everything from spirits to bitters to shaking technique. “It’s kind of wild,” she says. “But it’s been a blessing of the pandemic.” assemblecocktail.com

COU RT ESY ASS EM B L E COC KTA I L WO R KS H OP

At her Assemble Cocktail Workshop on Main Street in Boerne, Lillian Oler teaches groups how to mix and shake up their own craft drinks.

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6/10/22 10:35 AM

JO M A N D O C RUZ

Reese Bros Barbecue platter

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6/9/22 12:24 PM

ijerina edmund t by y photograph cruz & a jom ndo an david ter

e is the n e c s e u ve l barbec nd we ha a The loca , n e e b ow ever dge on h e l best it’s w o n k t nsider e fulles all the i h t o t t i to enjoy

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6/10/22 10:36 AM

JO M A N D O C RUZ

Today, San Antonio displays the best range of barbecue in the city’s history —and it’s truly exciting to experience. Meats by the pound and classic two- and three-meat platters are in good hands, while the bucket-list-worthy options also include inventive sandwiches, tacos and unusual combinations, like brisket with green curry, pork sausage made with Oaxaca cheese and chili Serrano, and banana pudding with buñuelos. The dozens of pitmasters and chefs shaping the Alamo City's flavor are worthy of support, so get out there and indulge in the wonderful alchemy of smoke and meat (plus elote, housemade pickles, Big Red cake and plenty of cobbler).

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LY THE FAMI BUSINESS Chris Ashford makes the most of his barbecue life

WHEN CHRIS ASHFORD

B R I SK E T: J O M A ND O C RUZ ; AS H FO R D : DAVI D T ERA N

began helping his parents at their restaurant, he didn’t receive specific instructions on how to cook. “I learned being here at the restaurant with my dad,” says Ashford, whose parents own Ed’s Smok-N-Q. “We didn’t have time for him to show me. I just figured it out.” Now, the son has built on the lessons he learned from his dad to create his own thriving barbecue spot. Indeed, his place, BBQ Life by Chris, which he opened in 2016 in the former home of his parent’s restaurant (which grew and moved to a new location up the road), has become a dining destination, creating terrific renditions of brisket, ribs, chicken and turkey, plus craveable sides. Ashford’s motto: “Barbecue life or no life.” For him, it’s a good life, too. Ashford was driving an 18-wheeler for a living when his parents, Ed and Waldean Ashford, opened Ed’s Smok-N-Q in 2006 in an old Sonic Drive-In on the East Side. Chris soon began helping his father when he wasn’t on the road. Ed, a former military man who had his own system for smoking meats, had started his barbecue adventures at home in Alabama before turning pro. “He’s been cooking his entire life,” Ashford says. When an accident left Ashford unable to drive full time, he focused on barbecue, and his father was there to let him learn. “He kind of put me in the fire and said, cook it and whatever money you make is yours,” Ashford says. “I stayed and burnt a few things and learned how to do it.” Both father and son use exclusively mesquite wood in their cooking. That’s a tricky wood because the smoke can give a bitter taste. Fortunately, both are able to coax the flavor of mesquite without its undertones.

Chris and Christian Ashford

“Once we got our niche with mesquite, we stuck with it,” Ashford says. “It’s a process to not over smoke.” And it works. The brisket deftly balances the flavor of the smoke, meat and simple seasonings, while the chicken stays moist and delicious. Even though his restaurant’s success is thanks in large part to the barbecue lessons he learned from his dad, Ashford says the most important piece of wisdom his father imparted goes beyond food. “He’s always let us know, if you say you’re going to do something, you gotta do it,” Ashford says. It’s a lesson he’s working to share with his own son, Christian, who's heading to Texas Southern University this fall. “My son is helping me in the restaurant and I’m helping him little by little,” Ashford says. “It’s a very good business, but it takes a lot of time.” Time and a commitment to that barbecue life.

Brisket No matter how much we explore different takes on barbecue, the Central Texas style that elevates brisket still reigns around here. It’s the standard by which we judge the skill of a pitmaster, and when it’s done well, few dishes rival the juicy, meaty and tender lusciousness of a good brisket. The best brisket in the city comes from

2M Smokehouse, where locals have been known to line up as early as 9:30 a.m. on Saturdays to ensure they can place their order before it runs out. Other favorites to add to your list to try: Reese Bros Barbecue, Smoke Shack, South BBQ & Kitchen, B-Daddy’s BBQ and Windmill Ice House. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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The Six cue SA Barbe nts Restaura Try You Must 2M Smokehouse The city’s best barbecue spot continues to draw crowds to its Southeast Side location, and for good reason. Pitmaster Esaul Ramos Jr. received his second, well-deserved James Beard nomination as Best Chef: Texas this year. Simply put, his menu is outstanding. The nearly perfect brisket, impeccable housemade sausage, memorable sides and outstanding pastries from Grecia Ramos (Esaul’s wife) make this the first stop on any serious barbecue lover’s list. Plan a special trip on the first Sunday of every month for barbacoa. 2731 S. W.W. White Road, 210-885-9352, 2msmokehouse.com

Two Bros. BBQ Market From the time it opened in 2009, the city’s first chef-driven barbecue spot has drawn crowds for its well-balanced meats and elevated touches, like pinto beans with bacon and peaches, and an espresso-infused barbecue sauce. Plus, there’s an outdoor play area to keep the kids entertained. Brothers Jason and Jake Dady have received acclaim over the years, and they have never slipped. Along with your meat, make sure to order jalapeño poppers and fried pies. 12656 West Ave., 210-496-0222, twobrosbbqmarket.com

Perhaps the most impressive part of this hotspot across from the Witte Museum is the consistency in its dishes as it serves crowds that file in throughout the day. Tender pork ribs maintain their texture to pull away without falling off the bone, while the turkey and chicken more than hold their own on the menu and brisket and pulled pork anchor the rest of the meat options. Check out the tangy vinegar coleslaw with chunks of feta cheese and try the brisket grilled cheese sandwich when you’re in the mood for lunch. 3714 Broadway, 210-957-1430, smokeshacksa.com

Tacos You can’t truly call yourself a San Antonian until you’ve tried the brisket taco at Garcia’s Mexican Food. At B-Daddy’s BBQ, a topping of chipotle coleslaw makes both the chopped brisket and pulled pork tacos a special treat. At 2M Smokehouse, the tacos combine amazing meat (we prefer the brisket), a terrific flour tortilla and 38

outstanding housemade pico de gallo. And the tacos at South BBQ & Kitchen—both the chopped brisket and pulled pork—start with housemade flour tortillas made with brisket fat and elevate the sensations from there with vibrant and lively toppings, like pickled red onions, jalapeño tomatillo salsa and guacamole.

SM O K E S H ACK : JO M A N D O CRUZ ; TACOS : COU RTESY SOU T H B BQ & K I TC H EN

Smoke Shack

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South BBQ & Kitchen You can’t go wrong with the brisket, pulled pork, chicken legs and pork ribs, and those alone are worth the trip to this South Side spot. Now add clever and delicious sides like a green bean salad with cotija cheese, memorable borracho beans, creamed corn with a Mexican twist, and terrific housemade flour tortillas and you have a barbecue destination that’s a must for any serious San Antonio diner. Whether the items enjoy their showcase in combo plates, sandwiches or tacos, they succeed brilliantly. Can’t make it to Mission Road? They also have a limited menu at Weathered Souls Brewing Co. 2011 Mission Road, 210-437-0070, southbbqkitchen.com

Barbecue Station BBQ Life by Chris Edward and Waldean Ashford Ed’s Smok-N-Q began its life in a former Sonic Drive-In on South W.W. White Road. When they moved to a new location, their son, Chris, took over the building and rechristened it BBQ Life by Chris, which has become a destination spot for the rest of the city. Chicken quarters sing sweetly, while tender, juicy brisket and pork ribs offer just the right amount of smoke, and sandwiches are big and satisfying. When was the last time you had macaroni salad? It’s tangy and delicious here. 902 S. W.W. White Road, 210-359-1511, facebook.com/bbqlifebychris

Even if you go in for just a few minutes to pick up a takeout order, you will come out smelling of hardy wood smoke. That’s not a bad thing. Barbecue Station brings the feel of a small-town joint that’s been around for generations, even if its history only goes back to the early 1990s, and we love it. On a menu of all-around strong performers, brisket, ribs and chicken shine brightest. This is old-school Texas barbecue done right. 1610 N.E. Loop 410, 210-824-9191, barbecuestation.com

JO M A N D O C RUZ

Only in SA A special shout out is needed for the delicious cultural mashup that is Curry Boys BBQ, where Pinch Boil House partners Sean Wen and Andrew Ho join forces with South BBQ & Kitchen’s Andrew Samia to create dishes that brilliantly combine Central Texas with flavors from Southeast Asia. You can’t go wrong with the Brisket Smoke Show,

a prime brisket served with green curry, as well as The Missing Link, which is smoked sausage paired with Penang curry. Meanwhile, the creamed corn with curry powder lifts a traditional side to a new dimension. Consider this spot a craving you didn’t know you had.

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Sausage Some of the city’s best housemade sausage comes from the East Side—specifically Jones Sausage House & Barbecue and 2M Smokehouse, though the new(ish) Reese Bros Barbecue, which makes it with Oaxaca cheese and serrano peppers, is coming up fast as a contender. The coarsely ground links at Jones have a 40

great snap and a touch of sweetness that serves as the perfect anchor to a sandwich or taco while also being enjoyable on its own. At 2M, the pork sausage with Oaxaca cheese and chile serrano is simply breathtaking. Make sure to try these sausages by themselves before even thinking of adding sauce. Really, they’re that good.

SE RVA N TES A ND K I R K LA ND : DAV ID T EA RA N; SASAUG E: COURT ESY 2 M SM OK EH OUS E

Ernest Servantes and David Kirkland

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Backyard o Smoker t Beard Nominee

R I BS : COURT ESY B BQ L IF E BY C H R I S; M AC & C H E ES E: NE L EA 3 3 /SH UT TE RSTO CK .COM ; CO R N : N EW AF R I CA/S H UT T E RSTO C K .CO M ; PI C K L ES : H O N G VO/S H UT T ERSTO C K .CO M

The Food Network brought Ernest Servantes fame; his Burnt Bean Co. dishes bring crowds to Seguin

CHANCES ARE, ERNEST

Servantes would have grown his business to the point where lines gathered down the block in downtown Seguin all on his own. But it probably would have taken a lot longer if he hadn’t won an episode of Food Network’s Chopped Grill Masters. “It changed my whole life. If it wasn’t for Chopped, I don’t think I’d be where I am today,” says Cervantes, co-owner of Burnt Bean Co. The Uvalde native is a self-trained chef who worked his way up in restaurants from washing dishes and bussing tables, to serving as a corporate trainer for Outback Steakhouse, as a cook at Huisache Grill in New Braunfels and then for 15 years as an executive chef with Sodexo, where he oversaw dining at Texas Lutheran University. After years of barbecuing in his backyard, he entered his first competition in 2009 when a neighbor signed him up. His team won. And they kept winning, from local to regional to statewide competitions. Servantes started with ribs but was soon smoking all of the meats. The name of his business came from those days. A woman he worked with asked what he’d be cooking for a competition, and he told her brisket, ribs, chicken and beans. In Spanish, she replied, “Hey fat boy, you’re probably going to burn the beans.” That frijoles quemados comment translates in English to burnt beans, which seemed as fitting a name as any when he opened his own place in Seguin with fellow pitmaster David Kirkland. Still, that doesn’t mean getting to that point was easy. First, Servantes had to balance his duties at the university with the growth of his

hobby, which only became more intense after he won Chopped in 2012. “It was challenging,” Servantes says. “Every weekend we didn’t have anything going on at TLU, I’d go compete. Some people play golf, some people go fishing, I would do barbecue.” In 2019, he teamed up with Kirkland, a fellow barbecue competitor, to put on pop-ups in Seguin. Those sold out within an hour each time, and they were poised to open their own spot. But the pandemic put those plans on hold. Then, the bar that had hosted their pop-ups went under, so they took over the lease and debuted in December 2020 to nearly instant crowds and acclaim. Earlier this year, Servantes and Kirkland were named James Beard Award semifinalists for Best Chef: Texas. In 2021, Texas Monthly called Burnt Bean Co. the No. 4 barbecue spot in the entire state. Of course, the meats are incredible, but make sure to order a side of the bacon ranch taters (hash “Our vision browns loaded for Burnt with bacon and Bean is cheese) and one to be a of the desserts— trendsetter. banana pudding We’re not with buñuelos your typical instead of Nilla barbecue Wafers, a peach joint.” cobbler in taco form with dulce de leche ice cream or Big Red tres leches cake. “Our vision for Burnt Bean is to be a trendsetter. We’re not your typical barbecue joint,” Servantes says. “We want to be the next generation of barbecue guys.” And while the barbecue is incredible, Servantes is even more proud of the Sunday breakfasts that hearken back to his childhood, when his father would get barbacoa and menudo on Sundays—if the kids behaved at church. “People don’t understand that we’re not from Mexico, we have our own Tejano flavor,” he says. “You can feel the love and the passion, you can feel the love that our grandmas put into the food they gave us.”

Stellar Sides

Mac and cheese The venerable side serves as a platform for exploration, fun and deliciousness. At 2M Smokehouse, crumbled chicharrones add a crunch, while Reese Bros Barbecue infuses fresh poblano in a cheese sauce, and at Smoke Shack you can order mac with brisket and sauce in it.

Corn/elote Some places, such as Augie’s Barbed Wire Smokehouse and Barbecue Station, focus on a classic creamed corn, while others, such as 2M Smokehouse, move more toward Mexican elote and some, like South BBQ & Kitchen, combine a bit of both. We love it all.

Pickles Move beyond plain dill and try some of the amazing pickled veggies around town. South BBQ & Kitchen and 2M Smokehouse include entire sections of pickled items, while the sweet and spicy pickles at Bushwood BBQ are a menu highlight.

Ribs In such a beef-centric city as ours, pork ribs often don’t get the credit they deserve. But several places offer some excellent versions. It’s easy to overcook them to where the meat falls off the bone, but when ribs are done right, they offer a terrific balance of smoke, well-seasoned bark, porky essence and sometimes a wonderful layer

of sweetness. The cherry-glazed baby back ribs at Two Bros. BBQ Market are a longstanding favorite for a reason. Smoke Shack, Windmill Ice House, Pinkerton’s Barbecue and BBQ Life by Chris have also perfected their ribs, and you can’t say you’re a rib connoisseur without trying the rib tips at The Big Bib BBQ. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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RobertBrews Black Garlic & Hatch Chili Rub

B-Daddy’s BBQ Original Dry Rub

After multiple heart attacks and open-heart surgery, the founder of this company was told he needed to cut way back on salt to stay alive. He couldn’t find flavorful rubs and seasonings for his ribs that weren’t high in salt, so he made his own, launching a line of low-sodium, gluten-free and vegan options in 2020. Available at Huebner Oaks Farmers Market, Alamo Heights Farmers Market, Queen Bee Juicery and robert brews.com

Owner B.R. Anderson says their rubs were developed over the years at home and the original has long been used in the restaurant for turkey, pulled pork and chicken. The mesquite or red fajita seasonings are solid options if you want some spice. Available at B-Daddy’s restaurant and food trucks, Schott’s Meat Market and Jeff’s Backyard

What to smoke, when to try a new method and a few local seasonings and sauces to add to your pantry—KATHLEEN PETTY

The Barbecue Station Premium Barbecue Sauce

Deep River Specialty Foods Watermelon Grill & Glaze

The Peacock family has been sharing its recipes since 1992 and now allow you to enjoy their sauce at home. Use it to baste beef, pork, chicken, cabrito and ribs, or serve it on the side for dipping all manner of items. Available at the restaurant and as part of San Antonio in a Box orders

This sauce is sweetened with dates and brown sugar plus just a touch of spice. Co-owner Cheri White says it’s great on seafood, wings, ribs, chicken and even as part of a vinaigrette on a salad. It recently won a second place award at the International Flavor Awards. Available at Deep River Specialty Foods, Pearl Farmers Market and deepriverspecialty foods.com

H-E-B Texas-Style Beef Bone Broth BBQ Sauce

Great on rib-eye, ribs, burgers and any other beef, this H-E-B sauce adds flavor without being overwhelming thanks to its cayenne pepper and mild black pepper spice plus slightly sweet tones that come from tomato puree, molasses and pineapple juice. Available at H-E-B and Central Market B R E NDA P I ÑA

Become n w O r u o Y r e t s a m t Pi

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Meat Matters

C H IC K E N: J R I MAG ES; P O R K : GS DESI G N; R I BS : O LE XA ND R PA NC H E NKO ; TU R K EY: SM A RT 7; BRI S K E T: BO N C H AN ; SAL M O N : GR EY _ AN D ; AL L S H UT T E RSTO C K .CO M

Regardless of what you’re cooking, Chris Malloy, of Backyard Pitmasters, says it’s worth investing in higher-grade meat. He recommends heading to Smoke Shack Meat Market or H-E-B and talking with the butcher before making your final selection. Here, he offers a few other starting pointers.—KP

Chicken If you’re brand new to smoking meats, Malloy suggests starting with a half chicken or chicken thighs. They typically cook in under three hours and it’s a great protein for learning how long it takes for your pit to heat up and how much the temperature fluctuates while you’re cooking.

Pork Butt Malloy tells home pitmasters to cook pork shoulder (or butt) until it falls apart. The cut typically has a high amount of fat on one side, which leads to a moist and tender meat, but you should make sure to select one that also has a balance of muscle.

Ribs Whether pork, beef or lamb, ribs are a great next step after smoking chicken. They’re straightforward, and while they require temperature monitoring, you won’t have to pull an all nighter watching your smoker like with brisket. “It’s hard to make really bad ribs,” he says.

Turkey Turkey breast is an “incredibly lean” meat, Malloy says, so it’s easy to overcook and dry it out. “If you’re able to nail that temperature and texture of a turkey breast, that’s a sign that you’ve really got it,” he says. “A well-cooked turkey breast can be fantastic.”

Brisket Malloy stresses that brisket is a learned skill that takes practice and repetition. “The big challenge is it’s a really large cut of meat and it’s two muscles that are very different that are cooking at the same time,” he says. The art comes from getting the leaner piece to finish at the same time as the fattier portion. “It usually takes several tries,” he says.

Seafood Cure and cold smoke fish to get that distinctive smoky flavor, chargrill oysters, hang a red snapper on the grill or marinate and smoke a fresh cut of salmon. Malloy says it’s an often overlooked category and the SeafoodU class Backyard Pitmasters hosts is one of his favorites.

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r 4 Tips fo At-Home ng Barbecui Chris Malloy, who teaches BrisketU and other Backyard Pitmasters classes at San Antonio breweries, shares advice for smoking protein on your own Pick the right temperature. Newbies often assume they need to cook at 225 F, but Malloy says some of the state’s top pitmasters have advised that you actually get better results at 250 or 275 (and your meat cooks a little faster too). The real key is making sure your temperature is maintained and doesn’t swing up and down. Invest in a good thermometer. A remote thermometer and an instant read thermometer can be lifesavers when smoking a brisket. When cooking with a live fire, the temperature can change suddenly, and if you’re not staying on top of it, it’s tougher to course correct. Malloy recommends ThermoWorks products.

Consider a pellet smoker. These smokers have become much more affordable (and available) in recent years, and Malloy says there’s nothing wrong with taking advantage of the tools they offer. Pellet smokers can be programmed to maintain a temperature, so you don’t have to babysit your brisket overnight. Ceramic cookers, like the Green Egg, are better for chicken or a small rack or ribs rather than a brisket.—KP

Chris Malloy (right) leads Backyard Pitmaster courses, like BrisketU, that pop up at local breweries.

Backyard Pitmasters offers three-hour classes at breweries around San Antonio, and each includes some samples of the meat you’re learning about. In July, they’ll be at Ranger Creek, Weathered Souls, Dos Sirenos and Freetail Brewing. Find more info at brisketu.com/san-antonio.

COU RT ESY BAC KYA R D PI T M AST ERS

Fuel your fire. In Texas, hickory, pecan, mesquite and oak are the most common woods, with oak being especially accessible in South Texas. Malloy says as long as you don’t use a soft wood, it’s the size of the wood that matters most. Smaller cookers require wood chips or smaller chunks of wood while larger pits require bigger logs. “A full log could change the temperature on a smaller cooker by 50 or 60 degrees and you don’t want that,” he says.

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Love and Smoke With a backyard smoker, Edmund Tijerina and his dad built a bond and tradition

PO R K : COURT ESY B - DA DDY 'S B BQ ; FA M I LY: COU RT ESY ED M UN D T I J ER I N A

THE MORE I APPRECIATED GOOD BARBECUE AS I

grew older, the more I appreciated my father. He would smoke beef ribs every once in a while when I was growing up. While my mom and I went to Mass on a Sunday morning, he’d start the offset smoker. I could see the smoke in the backyard by the time we came home. For the next few hours, I went back and forth from the backyard to the kitchen. Outside, I kept an eye on the thermometer and nudged the wood with my dad. Inside, I helped my mom make potato salad and a loaf of fresh Italian bread from a Southern Living cookbook. Dad and I held the ribs in the smoker for a couple of hours and finished them in the oven, while the potato salad chilled in the fridge and bread cooled on top of the stove. In those days, our family budget was tight, so beef ribs were a rare treat. Many years later, when I became a father myself and my mom had passed away, I began smoking ribs on Father’s Day. I’d wake up early and bring several packages of beef ribs and a six-pack of Alamo Golden Ale to my parents’ house. I poured a cup of my parents’ Folgers coffee and sipped on it while I crumbled up old newspaper to begin lighting the oak chunks for the smoker. I could get the smoke going and the ribs in by around 8:30 a.m. so we could eat by the middle of the afternoon. “You know, son, you don’t have to do this,” my dad would tell me. “No, I want to,” I would reply. “Really, this is fun for me.” I loved the primal feeling of building a fire and feeding my wife, son and father. I also loved popping open my first beer at 11 a.m. We kept this tradition going until my dad couldn’t live on his own and went into assisted living.

As he began to decline, my wife suggested I take him out for barbecue. I picked him up at Morningside Ministries on a Sunday afternoon and we went over to Alamo BBQ Co. By that time, my son was in fourth grade, and he helped steady my dad as he walked. As we sat at a picnic table, we talked about schoolwork, house projects, and the times when he smoked ribs back when we lived in Houston. That was the last outing I had with my dad. A couple of months later, the lung cancer that was in remission returned and he was gone. As I cleared out his house and my sister and I divided my parents’ belongings, I made sure to take the smoker. I think it can help us as we make many more memories.

Writer Edmund Tijerina with his father, Tom, and son, Andrés, at Alamo BBQ Co. in 2020.

Pulled Pork Although sauce vs. no sauce may be the point of debate in some parts of the country, in San Antonio, we know pulled pork should be able to stand on its own, with just the flavors of the seasonings, smoke and meat carrying each bite. Once it can speak for itself, it serves as a terrific base for sandwiches (like the classic at Augie’s

Barbed Wire Smokehouse or the Pork-Wich at Windmill Ice House that’s served with slaw) and tacos (South BBQ & Kitchen’s are incredible) or all by itself with sauce on the side as an accent only if you want it. Not sure where to start? You can’t go wrong with B-Daddy’s BBQ or Barbecue Station. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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Turkey The challenge in smoking turkey comes from bringing enough smoke flavor to the lean meat without drying it out. Brining can often help with the moistness, but it risks making the delicate meat too salty, so good turkey requires a deft hand from a skilled pitmaster. Usually, smoked turkey means turkey breast, but some places of46

fer smoked turkey legs (not what you get during Fiesta). Ed’s Smok-N-Q is our go-to for turkey legs while Reese Bros Barbecue, B-Daddy’s BBQ and Windmill Ice House deliver the best turkey breast.

R EES ES' : DAVI D T ERA N ; T U R K EY: J O M A ND O C RUZ

Nick and Elliott Reese

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s Brother cue in Barbe

SA NDW I C H : COU RT ESY B BQ LI F E BY C H R I S ; BA NA N A PU D DI N G: COURT ESY PI NK ERTO N' S

Nick and Elliott Reese are serving barbecue the way they like to enjoy it at their Reese Bros Barbecue

I F E L L I OT T A N D

Nick Reese were going to serve homemade tortillas, rather than slices of white bread, alongside their smoked meats, the brothers knew they had to be good. Elliott started perfecting his recipe when the two were still living in Marathon and working at The Gage Hotel’s Brick Vault Brewery & BBQ. “It took me several months to tweak the recipe and then realize it was more of a technique thing,” Elliott says. “I still make them every day… We make barbecue the way we enjoy eating it, and I would rather have a tortilla with salsa and brisket than with a piece of white bread and pickles.” Though born in San Antonio, the brothers were raised in Austin and found their passion for the industry while working there at La Barbecue. Nick had recently graduated with a history degree from the University of Texas and Elliott was still there, studying the same subject. If he’s being honest, Elliot says, it was the flexible hours that drew him in more than the smoked meats, but between running the register and slicing brisket, the two say they found their passion. That’s what led them to West Texas—that and the desire to get out of Austin for a while—and eventually back to San Antonio, where their parents now live. The two had only a smoker, a 6-foot plastic table and a pop-up tent from Academy Sports + Outdoors when they returned from Marathon, but it was enough to get them going. They started hosting pop-ups in San Antonio and Austin and last fall found the “ideal” location for Reese Bros Barbecue.

It opened officially in January, with the two serving meats and sides out of a food truck in front of the restaurant while they rehabbed it. Culinary Institute of America grads Gabriel Perez and Jorge Flores are pivotal in guiding the menu and also handling the sides, which include a perfectly spiced poblano mac and cheese and okra beans, which are traditional beans that are finished off with chopped okra, tomatoes and onions. Elliott still churns out the tortillas and the team also makes their own salsa and pickled red onions. “We like to add a little more spice on our menu just because we think it’s fitting for San Antonio,” Elliott says. The location in Denver Heights near the Alamodome is proudly a work in progress. The brothers have finished out two covered patios with seating plus an outdoor bar, which is usually manned by their parents each weekend. They’ll eventually add a stage for live music and have plans for a nighttime menu plus ticketed “Noche” dinners they’ll offer one Thursday a month featuring a multi-course meal by Flores. Barbecue, which includes classic Central Texas–style brisket, pork spareribs, turkey and pulled pork, is available on Saturdays and Sundays. The two also make a queso fundido sausage link with Oaxaca and Serrano peppers, using techniques they learned from their boss in Marathon. Elliott says San Antonio was the place they wanted to land when they started talking about going into business together. Along with getting them close to family, moving to a city where they didn’t know many people has brought an unexpected side benefit: since their customers aren’t friends, they know they must really like the food when they return. “I don’t think either of us really had a plan, but I didn’t imagine us owning a restaurant,” Elliott says. “It kind of all just worked itself out naturally. We’re definitely happy with what we’re doing.”—KP

Don’t Miss Desserts Cobbler Two Bros.’ daily cobbler (think mixed berry or cherry) is served with just the right balance of fruit and flaky, warm dough. The peach and cherry cobblers at Blanco BBQ and Barbecue Station are also worth the calorie splurge, and when Bill Miller Bar-B-Q offers its limited-run cobbler, drive-thru lines usually stretch into the road. Banana Pudding Pinkerton’s Barbecue takes this favorite finale to a barbecue meal up a notch with its bananas foster pudding. It’s large enough to share, topped with whipped cream and not too sweet to enjoy after a plate full of brisket. Looking for the traditional version? Two Bros.’ is simple, classic and delicious. Big Red Cake Only near San Antonio will you find a sweet treat featuring Big Red soda. The white cake at Davila’s BBQ is made with Big Red, pineapple and vanilla pudding filling before being topped with fresh whipped cream and pineapple. Cornbread Pudding If banana isn’t your thing, consider the cornbread pudding at Windmill Ice House. It’s unusual but decadently delicious and topped with a perfectly sweet nutmeg cinnamon cream sauce.

Sandwiches A truly outstanding barbecue sandwich goes way beyond tossing some meat between a couple of slices of bread or a bun. The artistry comes from embracing excess by piling the meat with accompaniments resulting in a new creation that’s even better than the sum of its parts. The brisket grilled cheese at Smoke Shack still thrills, while

The Outlaw at BBQ Life by Chris saves you the hassle of deciding between meats by delivering both smoked sausage and brisket. The sandwiches at Dignowity Meats, where the Burnt End Melt includes cheddar mac, smoked brisket burnt ends and sliced pear on a ciabatta, deserve a category all to themselves. SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE

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TEXAS San Antonio artist Matt Tumlinson balances rural and urban, fun and thought-provoking in his murals and fine art

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JO M A N D O C RUZ

BY KATHLEEN PETTY

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hadn’t received a call about creating a mural in Fort Stockton in 2014, he might very well be a Marine. Or a river boat captain. ¶ At the time, the San Antonio artist was creating art during the day and playing host to River Walk tourists as a barge driver by night. With a history degree from Texas Tech University, Tumlinson thought he would become a teacher like his parents, but after completing his student teaching and then working as a substitute, he realized he wanted to do just about anything else. ¶“I was kind of listless,” says Tumlinson, who was born in San Antonio but grew up in Early, a small town near Brownwood, before returning to the Alamo City as a young adult. “I’d always wanted to pursue art, but, I don’t know, it was always more of a party trick. It never seemed like a viable career.”

W I LL I E M U RA L : COU RT ESY E R I C H SC H LEG EL ; A L L OT H E RS : COURT ESY M AT T TU M L IN SO N

IF MATT TUMLINSON

From top: Tumlinson’s “St. Willie,” which was painted on a wall in Rankin and also made into prints, “Dawn Sentry,” “Rubber Rawhide” mural in Wingate, “Curious Encounters,” “Sunday Lunch”

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Still, he wanted to see if he could make it work. He started simply by saying “yes” to any artistic job that came his way, whether a logo or a design for a T-shirt, and decided to give it two years. If he couldn’t make enough to work as an artist full time after that, he would join the Marines. “I talked to a recruiter and everything,” says Tumlinson. “Thank God that didn’t happen.” When the call came in about a Texas-themed mural at a nursing home in West Texas, Tumlinson followed his rule and said yes. “I really had no business painting, but I just jumped in,” he says. “At the time it was crazy money to me, and I knew if I did enough of those jobs, I could make teacher money.” That was nearly eight years ago and Tumlinson has since become known for his public murals—from his “¡Puro San Antonio!” and “King George” (Strait) murals on the St. Mary’s Strip to depictions of Willie Nelson and Matthew McConaughey in West Texas’ Rankin, where he’s completed nine murals. “I always feel like the mural is for everybody,” he says. “It’s not just for select people to see on their wall every day. It doesn’t cost anything. It’s accessible to anybody.” He’s also made a name for himself as a fine artist for his prints, canvas paintings and mixed media bullet casing works. He’s begun moving away from the bullet casing pieces, but they helped launch his career, quickly becoming a big seller to individuals looking for “Texas art.” “Those pieces were my interpretation of my own

feelings about a complex subject that could be seen from many different perspectives, all of them justified in their own way,” says Tumlinson, who had worked at a gun range on the South Side for a stint. Earlier this year, Lone Star Beer (owned by San Antonio–based Pabst Brewing Co.) commissioned Tumlinson to work on a collection featuring an armadillo influenced by 1960s Jim Franklin designs, which are synonymous with Lone Star and that era of Texas music. The Lone Star merchandise was released in February and two production runs sold out within days. “I don’t do corporate work for just anybody,” Tumlinson says. “But it was a good fit.” The mashup of music, Texas and cowboy culture that Tumlinson’s armadillo works represent is a piece of the story he is trying to tell through his current work. “It’s a modern West and rural take on cowboys—like cowboys with cell phones,” he says. “My goal is to build a body of work that better articulates that vibe.” Having grown up in rural Texas, Tumlinson shares the perspective of those in small towns, but he’s not entirely a rural guy anymore, either. His father-in-law is a rancher in the Panhandle and Tumlinson says that life is fun for a few days, but he’s not cut out for it all the time. “I kind of look at it through the eyes of someone who’s not totally foreign or comfortable,” he says, explaining that he’s the liberal artist friend in rural Texas but the semi-conservative painter in San Antonio. “You know, I think there’s a romance to it, but people don’t really

VI NC E NT G O NZ A L EZ

Above: “¡Puro San Antonio” at The Lonesome Rose. Right: “King George” on N. St. Mary’s Street. Strait posted about the mural on his Instagram after it was completed in 2019.

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VI NC E NT G O NZ A L EZ

think about the day to day of it—it’s very hard work.” Antonio Street Art Initiative, and he says there’s little The topic serves as a metaphor for how San Antonio that beats painting outside with a bunch of other artists. and the state as a whole is changing, too, he says, as “You can sit around and drink beers and talk and more non-Texans move in and native Texans wrestle with you’re still working. It’s just fun and there’s a real, tangible value in that kind of energy,” he says. “Otherwise, the identity shifts that brings. Pieces like his “Curious you’re working alone in your studio.” Encounters,” attempt to show the pull between old and new, rural and city. Inspired by a visit David “Shek” Vega, co-founder of to Marfa, that work shows an older the San Antonio Street Art Initiative, “I always feel like the cowboy in a hat, boots and dirt-covdescribes Tumlinson as genuine, talmural is for everybody. ered denim standing at a bar holding ented and pure “Texan.” a beer while peering over at a tattooed “We love how serious of an artist It’s not just for select Texan, wearing a modernized cowboy he is, but he’s also able to put a little people to see on their hat with clean boots, cuffed jeans, a cell humor in it,” Vega says. “I think that's wall every day. It doesn’t part of his genius is that it speaks to phone in one hand and a Topo Chico in the other. so many people. He bridges so many cost anything. It’s “I try really hard to find balance and genres and generations.” accessible to anybody.” depict things without making fun of Ultimately, Tumlinson hopes to anybody,” he says. “It’s the human conreflect some of the city that’s become his home. “There’s this kind of attitude associated with dition. It’s not unique to where we’re at in this place and time.” San Antonio—creative types all have this ‘Let’s just make The father of two is also not trying to take himself too it’ mentality. They don’t take themselves too seriously, seriously. While Tumlinson dedicates hot summer days but they’re serious about what they do,” he says. “The to studio work, he still loves to tackle public art. Several identity has always been here, but it’s been cool to watch of his murals were completed through work with the San and be a part of San Antonio coming into its own.”

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WAYS

GET

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BAC KG ROU ND : C R I S YOU NG/S H UT T E RSTO CK .CO M ; K AYA KS: COURT ESY T EX AS CA NO ES & K AYAKS ; M AN PAD D L I N G: COURT ESY C I T Y O F S EGUI N ; RI V E RWAL K : COU RT ESY VI S I T SAN ANTO NI O

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TO P I M AG E: COURT ESY CI TY O F S EGUI N; BOT TO M I MAGE : COU RT ESY RO C K I NRA FT IN G

THE WATER

A San Antonian’s guide to canoeing, kayaking, paddleboarding and tubing through South and Central Texas By Jennifer Chappell Smith

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Standup paddleboarders on the San Antonio River south of downtown

COU RT ESY VI SI T SA N A N TO N I O

Under the sizzling, South Texas sun, the San Antonio landscape (and all those who occupy it) can bake in the height of summer heat. But local paddlers know the water provides relief, whether the network of rivers that thread their way through the Hill Country and the heart of San Antonio itself or the prized lakes that gleam like oases amid the terrain. Whether you’re an experienced paddler or a newcomer to recreation above the water, Central and South Texas offer a multitude of places to glide your way to cooler summer days.

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San Antonio River Museum Reach

Woodlawn Lake Park

I-35

I-3 7

Activity: Kayak Put in/Take out: 226 Newell Ave.

FOURTH STREET

Level: Easy

WO O D LAW N LA K E : COU RTESY C I T Y O F SA N A NTO NI O; MA PS: DAVI D G. LOYO LA

Activity: Canoe, kayak, standup paddleboard Put in/Take out: Mission Kayak puts in at Espada Park, 1750 S.E. Military Drive. The city allows individuals to paddle on their own starting from 100 E. Guenther St. and between Eagleland and Lone Star

Put in/Take out: Dock at 1103 Cincinnati Ave. Level: Easy

JUST INTRODUCED THIS YEAR , this new opportunity allows paddlers to experience a 2-mile section of the San Antonio River before the city’s water taxis begin to run. Between the hours of 8 a.m. and 2 p.m., you can enjoy views of the San Antonio Museum of Art, Pearl and the nearby downtown landscape. Mission Kayak offers 2-hour rentals, which is more than enough time to paddle up and down the historic stretch. “[Paddling] is such a great opportunity to see our city in a completely different way,” says Grant Ellis, natural resources manager for the City of San Antonio Parks and Recreation Department. “When you’re out on the water it can be completely peaceful, and you may not realize you’re surrounded by the hustle and bustle.”

San Antonio River Mission Trail

Activity: Canoe, kayak, standup paddleboard

EXPLORE THE LESS DEVELOPED

side of the San Antonio River south of downtown on your own or with an outfitter. If you’re kayaking, Mission Kayak can lead you through man-made chutes that take you to lower parts of the river, too. “[On the chutes], people grab their paddles in their hands and thrust their hands over their heads,” says Christine Graham of Mission Kayak and Mission Adventure Tours. On guided tours you also get up close and personal with nature. “You will have an environmental biologist telling you everything you need to know about the river,” she says.

Level: Easy to intermediate

I-3 7

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is a convenient place to practice your paddling skills without having to deal with a river current. San Antonians have paddled here since the 1920s using rowboat rentals. The lake is the centerpiece of a public urban park, which means you’ll have joggers and walkers to encourage you on as you row. Just bring your own vessel or paddleboard, along with your life jacket or personal flotation device, and head to the dock. A survey marker shows Woodlawn Lake is the geographic center of Bexar County, according to Ellis, so you’re truly paddling in the heart of the city.

THE WEST SIDE LAKE

SASPAMCO Paddling Trail Activity: Canoe, kayak

1604

181

Put in/Take out: River Crossing Park on the San Antonio River (6890 S. Loop 1604 E.) to Floresville at Helton-San Antonio River Nature Park or Floresville River Park Level: Experienced

1604 between I-37 and Hwy. 181, the convenient access point at River Crossing Park sets you on an up-to-12-mile journey through Bexar and Wilson counties. Meander at your own pace under cypress and pecan trees and watch for heron and migratory songbirds in spring and fall. A great stopping point is the John William Helton-San Antonio River Nature Park, which has a spacious pavilion for picnicking. If you want to continue, the trail recently extended to Floresville River Park. Curious about the name of the trail? The San Antonio River Authority reports that SASPAMCO is the name of a former company that dominated the area until the 1960s, the San Antonio Sewer Pipe Manufacturing Company. LOCATED JUST OFF LOOP

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BANDERA/MEDINA Medina River Activity: Canoe, kayak, tube Put in/Take out: For unguided trips, start at the river crossing at Patterson Avenue in Medina and take out at Peaceful Valley Crossing Level: Easy to intermediate

Goliad Paddling Trail

PADDLE UNDER THE CASCADING

SEGUIN

branches of the cypress trees on the lazy Medina River, but if you’re hitting the water on your own, watch for private land and no trespassing signs along the way. Or save the trouble thanks to outfitters such as The Medina River Co., which offer tubing and kayaks with shuttle service included to bring you back to your starting point. Less crowded than the Comal or Guadalupe rivers, the Medina offers serenity in the busy summer season. Keep in mind water levels may be lower during seasons of drought.

Seguin Paddling Trail (Lake Seguin)

GOLIAD

Seguin Paddling Trail on the Guadalupe River

Activity: Canoe, kayak, paddleboard Put in/Take out: Max Starcke Park West near Bowl Pavilion Concrete Dam Level: Easy

LOCATED ON LAKE SEGUIN, this is the perfect paddling grounds for beginners. Traverse the 4-mile trail at your leisure, with no portage or shuttle service required since you start and stop in the same place. It usually takes one to three hours, depending on the wind and water level. “This one’s the most popular, with the concrete boat launch” says Jack Jones, director of parks and recreation with the City of Seguin. “The current is very calm, there’s big cypress trees, a few turtles and general river life.”

Activity: Canoe, kayak, tube

Level: Experienced

San Antonio River offers a paddle along calm waters with the occasional riffle and the chance to spy a hawk, heron or kingfisher and encounter armadillo and plenty of squirrels. Canoe Trail Goliad touts recent improvements to the Ferry Street landing site, with a paved portion for easier access in and out.

THIS PORTION OF THE

59 239

Seguin Paddling Trail (Lake Nolte/ Meadow Lake on the Guadalupe River) Activity: Boat, canoe, jet ski, kayak

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Put in/Take out: Max Starcke Park East Level: Easy

THIS SPOT IS GREAT for beginners thanks to two different dams that slow the flow of the Guadalupe River along this trail. Hop in from the more natural area known as “the point.” “This paddling experience in Seguin is kind of a hidden gem,” says Jones. Choose routes ranging from 2.6 to 8.4 miles. Life jackets are required here and paddling, jet skis and boats are only allowed in a restricted zone for now, so watch for and follow the signage on the trail.

SEGU I N PA D D LI N G T RA I L: COU RT ESY CI TY O F SEGU I N; M A PS: DAVI D G. LOYO LA

Put in/Take out: Put in under the bridge at Highway 59 in Goliad County, with a midpoint take out at Ferry Street near Branch River Park and final take out in Goliad State Park

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LULING

BURNET

Luling Zedler Mill Paddling Trail Activity: Canoe, kayak Put in/Take out: State Highway 90 River Crossing to Zedler Mill

TEXAS PARKS & WILDLIFE calls this spot “family friendly,” and though Holly Orr, owner of Texas Canoes & Kayaks, recommends this trail along the San Marcos River for novices, she says advanced paddlers will enjoy it, too. “It’s just really scenic,” she says. Its tree canopy offers plenty of shade, and it has a steady flow, regardless of rain level. At 6 miles long, the trail will take about 3 hours if you tackle the whole thing. City parks along the way make it easy to access and to use facilities as you come and go from the water. “It’s great for paddling year-round,” she says. Orr and her team offer canoes, kayaks and life jackets if you don’t have your own gear, and they’ll meet you at the river for guided or unguided tours.

Level: Easy to experienced

Guadalupe River State Park Paddling Trail Activity: Canoe, kayak

COU RT ESY T EXAS CA NO ES & K AYA KS

SPRING BRANCH

THE GUADALUPE RIVER WINDS through the heart of the Hill Country, offering views of the iconic limestone bluffs and wildlife, including armadillos, deer, fox and the occasional beaver. About halfway through the trail, you’ll likely encounter a low water crossing that Level: Easy to Intermediate will require you to lift and carry your boat, but don’t let it deter you from continuing on your way to Nichol’s Landing. Once you get there, you can either call it a day or keep going to the Upper Guadalupe River-Nichol’s Landing Paddling Trail for another 5 to 10 miles, where you’ll find a few invigorating rapids between stretches of calmer waters. If you want to launch at Guadalupe River State Park, park superintendent Brandon Lopes-Baca says reservations are highly recommended. Bergheim Campground and Outfitter also provides shuttle service to park guests using the river, so you can arrange to be picked up at Nichol’s Landing.

Put in/Take out: Guadalupe River State Park to Nichol’s Landing County Park (at Specht’s Crossing)

up to Inks Lake, just 25 minutes past Marble Falls, and it’s even easier to paddle away Activity: Canoe, the day when you get there. kayak The park store rents oneand two-person kayaks, Put in/Take out: canoes, paddles, life vests Head to the park and paddleboats. Plus, a store for directions on spacious, wake-free zone where to get in during your visit allows you to practice your strokes with a paddle. When Level: Easy you’re done paddling, make the short hike over to the Devil’s Waterhole for a fun plunge. Note: Thick vegetation under the water’s surface put a temporary hold on paddle boating earlier this year so check the park’s website for updates if you hope to paddle boat. IT’S AN EASY DRIVE

Inks Lake State Park

FRESH VIEW Experience the water anew with one of these activities Glow Row | Rockport Paddle Little Bay in an illuminated kayak with neon colors after the sun sets. glowrow.com SUP Yoga Classes | Boerne Hone your balance, strength and flexibility with yoga classes on sturdy standup paddleboards atop Boerne City Lake. Contact Hill Country Paddle Sports for availability. hillcountrypaddlesports.com Crystal Kayak Glow Tours | San Marcos Choose from seven colors of LED lights that are fitted beneath translucent kayaks for a guided tour down the San Marcos River. It’s a great date night, and you can bring your own adult beverage. paddlesmtx.com

Bat Watching | Austin Bring your own paddleboard, kayak or canoe, or reserve a bat-watching paddle excursion with Live Love Paddle to see the Mexican Freetail bats flutter out in a storm at dusk. Most other rental places close before sunset (and you can also spot the bats from the banks of Lady Bird Lake or Congress Street Bridge). livelovepaddle.com Texas Surf Camps | Port Aransas Yes, you can surf on the Texas Coast. Before you stand up on a surfboard and ride the waves, you use your hands to paddle with the incoming wave. texassurfcamps.com

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First-time paddler and wondering what to expect? “It’s a lovely experience,” says Christina Graham, of Mission Kayak and Mission Adventure Tours. “It’s kind of like driving a car for the first time: Suddenly you’re the one behind the wheel, and you’re the one responsible for the propulsion of this vehicle, dipping the paddle in and out. You may wonder if you’re doing this right. You probably are.” If you’re heading out solo without the benefit of an outfitter or guide, Graham and parks and rec managers Grant Ellis and Brandon Lopes-Baca offer these tips. Wear a life vest or bring a personal flotation device. “Safety on the water is always the priority,” Ellis says. Graham adds that if you bring a dog, consider a doggie life jacket, too. Bring a change of clothes for the drive home. “You’re gonna get wet,” Graham says. Protect yourself from nature. Bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and plenty of bug spray.

Wear old shoes. “You’ll likely be up to your ankles in water as you pull up the kayak [or canoe] to a boat ramp,” Graham says, so it helps to have shoes on that you don’t mind throwing away at some point. Plus, there could be algae on the boat ramp. Check flow rates before you go. Lopes-Baca warns that trips take longer when the rivers run low, which means you’ll need more drinking water while you paddle through the heat.

Anticipate a bit of a workout. “[New paddlers] are sore in places they’re not normally sore in,” Graham says.

Boerne City Lake Park

BOERNE

AUSTIN Lady Bird Lake Activity: Canoe, kayak, standup paddleboard Put in/Take out: Multiple sites, including Zilker Park Boat Rentals on Barton Creek Level: Easy to Intermediate PART OF THE RESERVOIR sys-

tem on the Colorado River, this lake offers cityscape paddling fun along shores laced with cottonwood, elm, cypress and other trees. Rent kayaks, canoes or standup paddleboards from Zilker Park Boat Rentals on Barton Creek. You can enjoy an easy paddle experience on the creek, which connects to the lake itself, too. Texas Rowing Center also offers rentals for all things paddle related.

NEW BRAUNFELS

Activity: Kayak, standup paddleboard Put in/Take out: Park boat ramp, 21 Upper Cibolo Creek Road, Boerne

WITH THE GUADALUPE’S INCON-

sistent water levels in summertime, the city lake may be your best bet for paddling opportunities in Boerne. Stop by Hill Level: Easy Country Paddle Sports’ kiosk, and owner Kyle Calvano will set you up with a standup paddleboard. “People always think they need a lesson, but I go over the basics with them on land, and then if the weather’s good, it’s easy.” From giant paddleboards that hold up to eight people (he calls this one “the megalodon”) to boards that hold one to three people, there are plenty of options. Kayaks are also available. You can also B.Y.O.B. (bring your own boat).

Guadalupe River Activity: Raft, tube Put in/Take out: Rental companies help facilitate your entry and exit, with shuttle service available to get you back to the parking lot where you started Level: Easy to experienced

THE RAPIDS MAY NOT be as wild as the Colorado River in the Rockies, but you can enjoy the thrill of white water when you rent from outfitters like Jerry’s Rentals and Rockin’R River Rides along the Lower Guadalupe. Summertime brings out the tubers, teens and young adults floating down the river in their vinyl tubes. But rafters zip down at a faster pace, so get your paddles ready if you want a more invigorating trip.

AUST I N: ROSCH E T Z KY PH OTO GRA PH Y/SH U T T E RSTO C K .CO M

PADDLING 101

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ARANSAS PASS Fish Pass Activity: Kayak Put in/Take out: Fish Pass in Mustang Island State Park Level: Easy

FISH PASS OFFERS GREAT training

ground for new kayakers. With its depth of only 2 to 3 feet, the pass allows you to stand right up if you end up in the water. Outfitters such as Coastal Bend Kayak in nearby Aransas Pass and Island Surf Rentals in Port A can set you up with kayaks and gear, or even book a lesson for you.

Barton Creek Bridge spanning across the cold spring fresh clear waters of Barton Creek in Austin

Lighthouse Lakes Paddling Trail on Redfish Bay Activity: Kayak Put in/Take out: Lighthouse Lakes Paddling Trail Park

COU RT ESY RO CK I N ’R R I VE R R I D ES

Level: Experienced

Rafting along the Guadalupe River in New Braunfels

AFTER A DAY OR two lounging on the beach at Port Aransas, you may be ready to get out on the water. Head to the first paddling trail mapped along the Texas Coast and make your way through mangroves and past the Lydia Ann Lighthouse, built in 1857. You can choose from four different loops that range from 1.25 to 6.8 miles. Dealing with coastal winds and tides can make it more of a challenge, so this trip suits more experienced solo paddlers unless you have a guide.

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WORK OF ART

The Artist: Isaac Julien The Work: “True North”

BY HAVING A GALLERY BUILT SPECIFICALLY FOR VIDEO AND MOVING IMAGE WORKS, RUBY

City makes clear that such pieces can be repeatedly enjoyed—just like paintings that museumgoers are used to seeing on the wall, says Isaac Julien. “The wonderful thing is, it creates a possibility for someone to return to see a piece, in the same way that you would a painting or photography,” says Julien, the British filmmaker and installation artist whose “True North” is on display through January 2023. “It allows for meditation and a more nuanced relationship to this form.” The late Linda Pace, whose collection is displayed in part at Ruby City, is the largest collector of Julien’s installations, with more than 50 of his works, so when David Adjaye designed the contemporary art space in Southtown, he included a gallery that features three screens and HD projectors that are surrounded by specially made blue felt curtains and blue carpet. The result is a room that envelops the visitor, allowing them to become fully immersed in Julien’s installations. “True North” was first created in 2004 and is loosely based on the journey of Matthew Henson, the African American explorer believed to be the first person to reach the North Pole over 100 years ago. It’s one of three parts of his Expeditions series.—KP

VOLUME 17/NUMBER 9, JULY/AUGUST 2022, SAN ANTONIO MAGAZINE (USPS 008-350) IS PUBLISHED BIMONTHLY, SIX TIMES A YEAR, BY OPEN SKY MEDIA FOR $14.95 PER YEAR, 1712 RIO GRANDE STREET, SUITE 100, AUSTIN, TX 78701. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT SAN ANTONIO, TX AND ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES.

A NS EN SE A LE

The Gallery: Ruby City

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